Ford Sierra 1996 User Manual

Ford Sierra

Service and Repair Manual

Steve Rendle and Christopher Rogers

Models covered

Saloon (Sapphire and Hatchback), Estate and P100 Pick-up models, including special/limited editions, with four-cylinder SOHC, DOHC & CVH petrol engines and two-wheel-drive

Does not cover V6 or Diesel engine models, four-wheel-drive models, or RS Cosworth

(903 - 368 - 11Y8)

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 090 5

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from from the British library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honore, 75001 PARIS, France

LIVING WITH YOUR FORD SIERRA

Introduction to the Ford Sierra Page 0•4 Acknowledgements Page 0•4 Safety first! Page 0•5

ROADSIDE REPAIRS

Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing Page 0•6 Towing Page 0•7 Identifying leaks Page 0•8 Jump starting Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine Oil level Page 0•12 Coolant level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13 Brake fluid level Page 0•13 Power steering fluid level Page 0•14 Electrical systems Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•17 Tyre pressures Page 0•18

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1

Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•9

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

SOHC engines Page 2A•1 DOHC engines Page 2B•1 CVH engines Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

TRANSMISSION

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual gearbox Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Propellor shaft Page 8•1 Final drive and driveshafts Page 9•1

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

Braking system Page 10•1 Suspension and steering Page 11•1

BODY EQUIPMENT

Bodywork, trim and fittings Page 12•1 Body electrical systems Page 13•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 13•22 Reference

General dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Tools and working facilities Page REF•5 MOT test checks Page REF•7 Fault finding Page REF•11 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

0•4

The Ford Sierra was first introduced in late 1982 with the option of seven different engines and four different trim levels. This manual covers the four cylinder in-line petrol engines, but other models in the range are fitted with V6 or diesel engines.

The Sierra was introduced by Ford as the successor to the Cortina and initially received a mixed reception as it was one of the first vehicles to make use of the “aeroback” body style designed to reduce the air drag coefficient to a minimum in the interests of fuel economy. Mechanically the Sierra is similar to the Cortina with the exception of all-round independent suspension.

Initially, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 litre SOHC carburettor engines were available, with Hatchback and Estate body styles. In late 1984, a 1.8 litre SOHC engine became available and in 1985, a performance orientated 2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection engine was introduced.

Towards the end of 1986, the 1.3 litre engine was phased out. In order to fill a gap in the range, a Saloon body style, designated the Sapphire, was introduced in early 1987 and shortly afterwards, a 1.8 litre CVH engine replaced the previously used 1.8 litre SOHC engine throughout the model range.

A 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991 to replace the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously, this engine being broadly similar to the original 1.8 litre CVH engine which was in turn uprated in March, 1992.

A 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was introduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine.

In early 1988, a Sierra-based P100 pick-up model became available to replace the previous Cortina-based design. The P100 consists of a Sierra-type “cab” and front suspension, and a Ford Transit-type rear

suspension and 2.0 litre engine.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the Sierra range to suit most tastes, including an anti-lock braking system.

For the home mechanic, the Sierra is a straightforward vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Ford Sierra L

Ford Sierra Ghia Estate

Introduction

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Ford Motor Company and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Introduction to the Ford Sierra

Acknowledgements

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Specia hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing roadwheels. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a trolley jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points.

To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack from their stowage positions. On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models, the jack and spare wheel are located in the luggage compartment. On P100 models, the jack is located behind the passenger seat, and the spare wheel is located under the rear of the cargo area.

Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual gearbox models or “P” on

automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.

Where applicable, remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts using the wheel brace provided in the vehicle tool kit. Position the jack head under the jacking point nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack until the wheel is clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and secure it with the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the wheel is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Where applicable, refit the wheel

trim , then withdraw the jack and stow the wheel and jack in thier respective locations.

When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley jack, position the jack under one of the relevant jacking point (note that on P100 models, the jackng points for use with a trolley jack are different to those for use with the vehicle jack). Do not jack the vehicle under the sump or or any of the steering or suspension components. Supplement the jack using axle stands. The jacking points and axle stand positions are shown in the accompanying illustrations. Never work under , ar ound or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing

Location of jacking points - Saloon,

Hatchback and Estate models

A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or

axle stands

Location of jacking points - P100 models

A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack

B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or axle stands

Rear jacking point - Hatchback model

Jack location by front wheel -

Hatchback model

Axle stand correctly positioned under

front jacking point -

Hatchback model

Roadside repairs

0•7

Rear towing eye - Hatchback model

Front towing eye - Hatchback model

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. Always turn the ignition key to position “II” when thew vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released and the direction indicator and brake lamps are operational.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. On

automatic transmission models, the towing speed must not exceed 25 mph (40 kph), and the towing distance must not exceed 12 miles (20 km). For longer distances, or if transmission damage is suspected, the propellor shaft should be removed, or the rear of the vehicle should be lifted clear of the ground.

Push or tow starting is not possible on

vehicles fitted with automatic transmission.

Roadside repairs

0•8

Roadside repairs

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•9

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•10

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly . Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

2.0 litre OHC

Carburettor model (air cleaner removed for clarity)

Location of oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

2.0 litre OHC

Fuel injection model

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

Introduction

Weekly checks

0•11

1.8 litre CVH

Air cleaner removed for clarity

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

2.0 litre DOHC

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Power steering fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

Weekly checks

Coolant level

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

0•12

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove

all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze

through the expansion tank filler neck until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the

engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.

The coolant level varies with the

temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above this mark.

Note the oil level on the end of the

dipstick, which should be between the upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.

Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).

On some models, the dipstick is brightly

coloured for easy identification. Refer to the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the exact location for each engine type

1 2

1 2 3

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

Weekly checks

Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.

l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

l On ABS models, switch the ignition off and pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the ignition.

Brake fluid level

0•13

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on

surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to

inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are

indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks. Disconnect the wiring plug (arrowed) before removing the cap.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap.

3 4

Screen washer fluid level

Some models have a visible reservoir,

whilst others have only the filler nozzle (arrowed) showing. Either way, the location is in the same place.

Top-up the washer reservoir using a propietary screen wash.

On models with only the filler tube fitted, a dipstick is fitted to show the quantity of

fluid left in the reservoir

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather . On no account use engine antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or damage paintwork.

1 2 3

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

master cylinder reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.

Weekly checks

0•14

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight-

ahead.

4 The system should be at operating

temperature and the engine should be turned off.

Safety First:

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of

the specified type If the level is checked cold, use the “MIN” or “FULL COLD” mark. Recheck the level at operating temperature.

The fluid level should be up to the “MAX” or upper “HOT” mark

The power steering fluid reservoir is

located next to the coolant expansion tank. Clean around the filler cap and then remove it should topping up be required.

1 2 3

For the check to be accurate the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Power steering fluid level

Weekly checks

Electrical system

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.

Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in Chapter 13.

If more than one indicator light or

headlight has failed it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in Chapter 13). The fuses are mounted in a box in the engine compartment on the right-hand side of the bulkhead. Remove the loose cover (and spring clip if fitted), pulling the plastic clip, and removing the plastic cover.

If a single indicator light, brake light or

headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch above the brake pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation is described in Chapter 9.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall

or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2 3

0•15

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm

fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end. On refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades;

if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

Weekly checks

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first” at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.

The battery is located on the left-hand

side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)

to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is

evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1 2

... as well as the battery cable clamps

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

Wiper blades

0•16

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car , the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known

as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 2 3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Under-inflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Over-inflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

0•17

Weekly checks

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API SG/CD or better 2 Manual gearbox

4-speed (A, B and C type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec SQM-2C 9008-A 5-speed (N type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec ESD-M2C 175-A 5-speed (MT75 type) Gear oil to Ford spec ESD-M2C 186-A

3 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A 4 Final drive Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP to Ford spec SQM-2C 9002-AA or 9003-AA 5 Power steering ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A 6 Brake hydraulic system Brake fluid to Ford spec Amber SAM-1C 9103-A Fluid 7 Cooling system:

SOHC engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SSM-97 B-9103-A CVH engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec ESD-M97B49-A DOHC engine Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SDM-M97B49-A

Note: From 1992, the cooling system on all models is filled with a long-life coolant mixture in production (“4-Year Longlife Engine Coolant”/”Super Plus 40”). The manufacturers do not specify any renewal intervals for this later type of coolant as it is intended to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Provided any topping-up is carried out with a similar coolant mixture of the correct strength, coolant renewal is unnecessary. It is advisable to renew the coolant if the vehicle has covered a particularly high mileage, or if the history of the car is uncertain, but this is up to the discretion of the individual owner.

CVH engines SOHC and DOHC engines

0•18

Weekly checks

Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations

Tyre pressures (cold) - lbf/in2(bar): Front Rear

All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* 26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)

All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)

Estate models with full load:

175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and

195/65 R 14T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 48 (2.8)

195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)

P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 (1.8) 36 (2.5)

P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 (3.5) 65 (4.5)

*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2(0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h) over 100 mph (160 km/h) A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload

Tyre pressures

Engine

Oil filter type:

SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Valve clearances (cold):

SOHC:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

DOHC and CVH:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not applicable (hydraulic cam followers)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not applicable (hydraulic cam followers)

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Air cleaner inlet air temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Ford Sierra maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Pulse air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Radiator matrix and air conditioner condenser clean . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

1•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Cooling system

Drivebelt tensions:

Air conditioning system compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.4 in) deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

under firm thumb pressure

Coolant pump/alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.4 in) deflection midway between coolant pump and

alternator (or power steering pump) pulleys under firm thumb pressure

Fuel system

Air filter element:

Carburettor type:

1.3 and 1.6 litre (SOHC - Ford carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W110

1.6 litre (SOHC - Weber carburettor) and 1.8 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . Champion W118

1.6 litre (SOHC - 1984-on) and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W219

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

Fuel injection type:

2.0 litre SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U507

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W219

Fuel filter:

All fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

Ignition system

Spark plugs: Make and type:

All except 1.8 CVH, CVH (R6A), 2.0 DOHC and P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YC or F7YC

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC

Electrode gap*:

Champion F7YCC or RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)

Champion RF7YC, F7YC or RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm (0.028 in)

Ignition HT leads

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

All SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-09 or LS-10 boxed set

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-10 boxed set

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-30 boxed set

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-29 boxed set

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug:

SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 15 to 22

Engine block coolant drain plug (where fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Manual gearbox:

Oil filler/level plug:

A,B,C and N types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 to 41 24 to 30

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Oil drain plug:

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Final drive oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33

Roadwheel nuts:

Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . 70 to 100 52 to 74

P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 90 63 to 66

Spark plugs:

SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21

CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 33 13 to 24

DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

Brake caliper guide bolts:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 to 35 23 to 26

1•2 Servicing specifications

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Capacities

Engine oil

SOHC engines:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

DOHC engine:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

1.6 litre CVH engine:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

1.8 CVH engines:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Cooling system (including heater)

SOHC engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 pints)

DOHC engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres (12.3 pints)

Fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.3 litres (12.8 pints)

CVH engines:

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R2A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 litres (16.7 pints)

1.8 litre (R6A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.9 litres (13.9 pints)

Fuel tank

All models except P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.0 litres (13.2 gals)

P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.0 litres (14.5 gals)

Manual gearbox

A1 and A2 types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.98 litre (1.72 pints)

B type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.46 litres (2.57 pints)

C type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 litres (2.20 pints)

N type up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.90 litres (3.34 pints)

N type from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 litres (2.20 pints)

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres (2.1 pints)

Automatic transmission

C3 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 pints)

A4LD type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Final drive (from dry)

All models except 1.3 and 1.6 litre Hatchback and P100 . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litre (1.6 pints)

1.3 and 1.6 litre Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 litre (1.4 pints)

P100 models (rear axle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.14 litres (2.0 pints)

Power steering

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.65 litre (1.14 pints)

Servicing specifications 1•3

1 Ford Sierra maintenance schedule

1•4 Maintenance schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Check the engine oil level (Section 3) mm Check the engine coolant level (Section 3) mm Check the brake fluid level (Section 3) mm Check the power steering fluid level (Section 3) mm Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3) mm Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear

or damage (Section 4)

mm Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures

(Section 4)

mm Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte

level - where applicable (Section 6)

mm Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the

wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8) mm Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and rear)

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator

(Section 9)

mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid

leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts

(Section 11)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 12)

mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13) mm Clean oil filler cap (Section 14) mm Check idle speed (where applicable) (Section 15) mm Check mixture adjustment (where applicable)

(Section 16)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)

(Section 17)

mm Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18) mm Check operation of latches, check straps and locks;

lubricate if necessary (Section 19)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 20) mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s);

adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21)

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and

neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22)

mm Check engine valve clearances - SOHC only

(Section 23)

mm Check handbrake mechanism (Section 24)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Check air cleaner inlet air temperature control

operation (carburettor models) (Section 36)

mm Renew pulse air filter element (1.6 litre CVH)

(Section 37)

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 38) mm Clean and inspect distributor cap and HT leads

(Section 39)

mm Check automatic transmission brake band

adjustment (Section 40)

mm Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only)

(Section 41)

mm Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (SOHC and

DOHC) (Section 42)

mm Clean radiator matrix and air conditioning condenser

fins (where applicable) (Section 25)

mm Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (where

applicable) (Section 26)

mm Check final drive oil level (Section 27) mm Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown

linkage (Section 28)

mm Check security and condition of steering and

suspension components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)

mm Check condition and security of driveshaft joints and

gaiters (Section 30)

mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other

damage (Section 31)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32) mm Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (where

applicable) (Section 33)

mm Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34) mm Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 35)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if

necessary (Section 43)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44) mm Renew camshaft drivebelt (optional on SOHC

models - compulsory on CVH) (Section 45)

mm Renew coolant (Section 46)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner (continued)

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1985 2.0 litre SOHC

fuel injection model

1 Battery 2 Brake servo non-return valve 3 Ignition coil 4 Suspension strut top 5 Fuel filter 6 Air cleaner 7 Airflow meter 8 Fuel pressure regulator 9 Air inlet hose 10 Throttle body 11 Alternator 12 VIN plate 13 Windscreen washer reservoir 14 Coolant expansion tank 15 Oil filler cap 16 Idle speed control valve 17 Inlet manifold 18 Brake fluid reservoir 19 Fusebox 20 Windscreen wiper motor 21 Engine oil level dipstick

Underbonnet view of a 1983 2.0 litre SOHC

carburettor model (air cleaner removed)

1 Brake fluid reservoir 2 Windscreen wiper motor 3 Battery 4 Ignition coil 5 Carburettor 6 Distributor 7 Fuel pressure regulator 8 Thermostat housing 9 Radiator top hose 10 Upper fan shroud 11 Alternator 12 Windscreen washer reservoir 13 Oil filler cap 14 Cooler expansion tank 15 Suspension strut top 16 VIN plate 17 Fusebox

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 1990 2.0 litre DOHC

fuel injection model

1 Battery 2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive valve 3 Ignition coil 4 Suspension strut top 5 Air cleaner 6 Plenum chamber 7 Idle speed control valve 8 Distributor 9 Oil filler cap 10 VIN plate 11 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck 12 Power steering fluid reservoir 13 Coolant expansion tank 14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor 15 Brake fluid reservoir 16 Inlet manifold 17 Fuel pressure regulator 18 Fusebox 19 Windscreen wiper motor

Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.8 litre (R2A)

CVH model (air cleaner removed)

1 Battery 2 Suspension strut top 3 Ignition coil 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Alternator 6 Distributor cap shroud 7 VIN plate 8 Electric cooling fan 9 Radiator top hose 10 Windscreen washer reservoir 11 Fuel vapour separator 12 Thermostat housing 13 Oil filler cap 14 Carburettor 15 Brake fluid reservoir 16 Engine oil level dipstick 17 Windscreen wiper motor 18 Fusebox

Maintenance - component location 1•7

Front underside view of a 1990

2.0 GLS model

1 Horns 2 Tie-rod end 3 Tie-rod 4 Gaiter 5 Coolant pump 6 Suspension lower arm 7 Anti-roll bar 8 Starter motor 9 Exhaust downpipes 10 Crossmember 11 Engine sump 12 Oil filter 13 Power steering fluid pump 14 Windscreen washer reservoir 15 Cooling fans

Underbonnet view of a 1992 1.6 litre

CVH model (air cleaner removed)

1 Battery 2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive

valve 3 Suspension strut top 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Pulse-air filter 6 Vacuum-operated air valve 7 Alternator 8 Cooling fans 9 Oil filler cap 10 Thermostat housing 11 VIN plate 12 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck 13 Ignition module 14 Pulse-air control solenoid 15 CFI unit 16 Brake fluid reservoir 17 Engine oil level dipstick 18 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)

Sensor 19 Fusebox 20 Windscreen wiper motor

1•8 Maintenance - component location

Rear underside view of a Hatchback

models

1 Fuel tank 2 Suspension lower arm 3 Lower shock absorber mounting 4 Suspension crossmember 5 Suspension guide plate 6 Final drive unit 7 Exhaust system 8 Propeller shaft 9 Driveshaft

Rear underside view of a P100 model

1 Suspension leaf spring 2 Rear axle 3 Shock absorber 4 Propeller shaft 5 Exhaust system 6 Handbrake cable adjuster 7 Brake load apportioning valve

General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the

suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly

improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable

f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable

2 Introduction

See “Weekly checks”.

7 Wiper blade check

6 Battery electrolyte level check

5 Electrical system check

4 Tyre checks

3 Fluid level checks

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most

important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up

sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point (see

illustration).

8 Engine oil and filter renewal

Maintenance procedures 1•9

8.2 Sump drain plug location

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.

Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve! Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug. 4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque. 6 Move the container into position under the oil filter. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference section of this manual.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads can be inspected without removing the front wheels by inserting a mirror between each caliper and roadwheel (see illustration). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified thickness, all four pads (on both front wheels) must be renewed. 3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads can be viewed through the top of the caliper after removing the blanking spring clip (see illustration). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified, all four pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.

4 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake discs can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 10 for further information. 5 On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe friction material can be inspected for wear without removing the roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the brake backplate, and using an inspection lamp or torch, check that the friction material thickness is not less than the minimum given in the Specifications (see illustration). If any one of the shoes has worn below the specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as an axle set (4 shoes). 6 At the same interval, check the function of the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels, release the handbrake and switch on the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the warning light: it should come on as the level sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap. 7 On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual. 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil leaks, and investigate and rectify and problems found. 3 Check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future.

10 Fluid leak check

9 Front and rear brake pad/shoe

check

1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter

9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper inspection hole (roadwheel removed)

9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug (arrowed)

9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad friction material for wear

A Brake disc B Brake disc pads

4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant, fuel, power steering and brake hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal pipes. If any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out. Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the oil cooler hoses and pipes. 10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring harnesses.

1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or other damage. If evident, renew the belt. 2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth using a little detergent only. 3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure that the original sequence of fitting of washers, bushes and anchor plates is retained.

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or supported on axle stands, check the exhaust system for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and check the rubber mountings for condition and security. Where damage or corrosion are evident, renew the system complete or in sections, as applicable, using the information given in Chapter 4.

With the wheels on the ground, slacken each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it immediately to the specified torque.

Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any sludge build-up using paraffin.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a buildup of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks.

Ford VV carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the idle speed and CO content. Note that the CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.

4 If necessary, adjust the idle speed screw to give the specified idle speed (see

illustration). 5 Checking and adjustment should be

completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, repeat paragraphs 3 and 4, ignoring the reference to starting the engine.

Weber 2V carburettor

Models without stepper motor

6 Proceed as described for the Ford VV

carburettor but note the following: 7 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner securing screws to allow easier access to the carburettor adjustment screws but ensure that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected. For adjustment screw location

(see illustrations).

Models with stepper motor (ESC II system)

8 The idle speed is controlled by the ESC II

module via the stepper motor. The only idle speed adjustment possible is provided by the “idle speed adjustment” wire, which can be earthed to raise the idle speed by 75 rpm. No other method of idle speed adjustment should be attempted. If the idle speed is incorrect, the problem should be referred to a Ford dealer, as the problem probably lies in the ESC II module for which special diagnostic equipment is required.

15 Engine idle speed check

14 Oil filler cap check

13 Roadwheel security check

12 Exhaust system check

11 Seat belt check

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11

15.7b Weber 2V carburettor adjustment screw locations - 1.6 litre models

A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw

15.7a Weber 2V carburettor adjustment

screw locations - 2.0 litre models up to 1985

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

15.4 Ford VV carburettor adjustment screw locations

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

Caution: Refer to the precautions in Section 1, Chapter 4, Part A or B (as

applicable), before proceeding. Before carrying out any carburettor adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To carry out the adjustments an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required.

Pierburg 2V carburettor

9 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor. For adjustment screw location

(see illustration).

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor, noting the following points: 11 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected to the air cleaner and are free from restrictions. 12 When warming-up the engine, run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in.

13 For adjustment screw location (see illustration).

Fuel injection

2.0 litre SOHC models

14 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV

module and the only means of adjustment provided is by the yellow “idle speed adjustment” wire (Chapter 5, Section 17) which allows the idle speed to be raised by 75 rpm.

2.0 litre DOHC models

15 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV

module, and manual adjustment is not possible. 16 The “base” idle speed can be adjusted, but only by a Ford dealer, using special equipment.

Ford VV carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the idle speed and CO content. Note that the CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds. 4 If the reading noted in paragraph 3 is not as specified, proceed as follows. 5 Using a thin screwdriver, remove the tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.

6 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, then allow the engine to idle, and using a small screwdriver or a 4.0 mm Allen key, as applicable, adjust the mixture screw to give the specified CO content. 7 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, then repeat paragraph 6. 8 If necessary adjust the idle speed, then recheck the CO content. 9 On completion of the adjustments, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer and exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof seal to the mixture screw.

Weber 2V carburettor

Models without stepper motor

10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV

carburettor but note the following: 11 To remove the mixture screw tamperproof seal, it will be necessary to drill the seal in order to prise it from the mixture screw housing. Alternatively a self-tapping screw can be used to draw out the seal. If the tamperproof seal is to be renewed, ensure that a blue-coloured replacement seal is fitted. 12 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner securing screws to allow easier access to the carburettor adjustment screws, but ensure that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected.

Models with stepper motor (ESC II system)

13 If necessary, the mixture can be adjusted

as described for the Ford VV carburettor with reference to paragraphs 11 and 12 of this Section. Do not attempt to adjust the idle speed on completion of mixture adjustment. For adjustment screw location (see illustration).

Pierburg 2V carburettor

14 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

15 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor, noting the following points: 16 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected to the air cleaner and are free from restrictions. 17 When warming-up the engine, run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in. 18 If adjustment of the mixture (CO content) is required, the air cleaner must be removed for access to the adjustment screw, as follows. 19 Remove the air cleaner, and prise the tamperproof seal from the mixture screw. 20 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected and free from restrictions (there is no need to secure the air cleaner in position). 21 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal to the mixture screw (the service replacement plug is coloured blue), and refit the air cleaner assembly.

Fuel injection

2.0 litre SOHC models

22 The idle mixture can be checked and if

necessary adjusted as follows: 23 Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 24 Stop the engine and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

16 Mixture adjustment check

1•12 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.9 Pierburg 2V carburettor adjustment screw locations

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw

16.13 Weber 2V carburettor idle mixture adjustment screw location (arrowed) -

2.0 litre models from 1985

15.13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor adjustment screw locations

Caution: Refer to the precautions in Section 1, Chapter 4, Part A or B (as

+ 310 hidden pages