Ford Sierra 1996 User Manual

Page 1

Ford Sierra

Service and Repair Manual

Steve Rendle and Christopher Rogers

Models covered

Saloon (Sapphire and Hatchback), Estate and P100 Pick-up models, including special/limited editions, with four-cylinder SOHC, DOHC & CVH petrol engines and two-wheel-drive

Does not cover V6 or Diesel engine models, four-wheel-drive models, or RS Cosworth

(903 - 368 - 11Y8)

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 090 5

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from from the British library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honore, 75001 PARIS, France

Page 2

LIVING WITH YOUR FORD SIERRA

Introduction to the Ford Sierra Page 0•4 Acknowledgements Page 0•4 Safety first! Page 0•5

ROADSIDE REPAIRS

Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing Page 0•6 Towing Page 0•7 Identifying leaks Page 0•8 Jump starting Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine Oil level Page 0•12 Coolant level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13 Brake fluid level Page 0•13 Power steering fluid level Page 0•14 Electrical systems Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•17 Tyre pressures Page 0•18

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1

Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•9

Page 3

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

SOHC engines Page 2A•1 DOHC engines Page 2B•1 CVH engines Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

TRANSMISSION

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual gearbox Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Propellor shaft Page 8•1 Final drive and driveshafts Page 9•1

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

Braking system Page 10•1 Suspension and steering Page 11•1

BODY EQUIPMENT

Bodywork, trim and fittings Page 12•1 Body electrical systems Page 13•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 13•22 Reference

General dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Tools and working facilities Page REF•5 MOT test checks Page REF•7 Fault finding Page REF•11 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

Page 4

0•4

The Ford Sierra was first introduced in late 1982 with the option of seven different engines and four different trim levels. This manual covers the four cylinder in-line petrol engines, but other models in the range are fitted with V6 or diesel engines.

The Sierra was introduced by Ford as the successor to the Cortina and initially received a mixed reception as it was one of the first vehicles to make use of the “aeroback” body style designed to reduce the air drag coefficient to a minimum in the interests of fuel economy. Mechanically the Sierra is similar to the Cortina with the exception of all-round independent suspension.

Initially, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 litre SOHC carburettor engines were available, with Hatchback and Estate body styles. In late 1984, a 1.8 litre SOHC engine became available and in 1985, a performance orientated 2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection engine was introduced.

Towards the end of 1986, the 1.3 litre engine was phased out. In order to fill a gap in the range, a Saloon body style, designated the Sapphire, was introduced in early 1987 and shortly afterwards, a 1.8 litre CVH engine replaced the previously used 1.8 litre SOHC engine throughout the model range.

A 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991 to replace the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously, this engine being broadly similar to the original 1.8 litre CVH engine which was in turn uprated in March, 1992.

A 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was introduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine.

In early 1988, a Sierra-based P100 pick-up model became available to replace the previous Cortina-based design. The P100 consists of a Sierra-type “cab” and front suspension, and a Ford Transit-type rear

suspension and 2.0 litre engine.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the Sierra range to suit most tastes, including an anti-lock braking system.

For the home mechanic, the Sierra is a straightforward vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Ford Sierra L

Ford Sierra Ghia Estate

Introduction

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Ford Motor Company and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Introduction to the Ford Sierra

Acknowledgements

Page 5

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Specia hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

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0•6

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing roadwheels. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a trolley jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points.

To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack from their stowage positions. On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models, the jack and spare wheel are located in the luggage compartment. On P100 models, the jack is located behind the passenger seat, and the spare wheel is located under the rear of the cargo area.

Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual gearbox models or “P” on

automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.

Where applicable, remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts using the wheel brace provided in the vehicle tool kit. Position the jack head under the jacking point nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack until the wheel is clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and secure it with the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the wheel is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Where applicable, refit the wheel

trim , then withdraw the jack and stow the wheel and jack in thier respective locations.

When jacking up the vehicle with a trolley jack, position the jack under one of the relevant jacking point (note that on P100 models, the jackng points for use with a trolley jack are different to those for use with the vehicle jack). Do not jack the vehicle under the sump or or any of the steering or suspension components. Supplement the jack using axle stands. The jacking points and axle stand positions are shown in the accompanying illustrations. Never work under , ar ound or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

Jacking, vehicle support and wheel changing

Location of jacking points - Saloon,

Hatchback and Estate models

A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or

axle stands

Location of jacking points - P100 models

A Jacking points for use with vehicle jack

B Jacking points for use with trolley jack or axle stands

Rear jacking point - Hatchback model

Jack location by front wheel -

Hatchback model

Axle stand correctly positioned under

front jacking point -

Hatchback model

Roadside repairs

Page 7

0•7

Rear towing eye - Hatchback model

Front towing eye - Hatchback model

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. Always turn the ignition key to position “II” when thew vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released and the direction indicator and brake lamps are operational.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. On

automatic transmission models, the towing speed must not exceed 25 mph (40 kph), and the towing distance must not exceed 12 miles (20 km). For longer distances, or if transmission damage is suspected, the propellor shaft should be removed, or the rear of the vehicle should be lifted clear of the ground.

Push or tow starting is not possible on

vehicles fitted with automatic transmission.

Roadside repairs

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0•8

Roadside repairs

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

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0•9

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

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0•10

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly . Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

2.0 litre OHC

Carburettor model (air cleaner removed for clarity)

Location of oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

2.0 litre OHC

Fuel injection model

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

Introduction

Weekly checks

Page 11

0•11

1.8 litre CVH

Air cleaner removed for clarity

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

2.0 litre DOHC

Oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Power steering fluid reservoir

Windscreen washer reservoir

Battery

Weekly checks

Page 12

Coolant level

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

0•12

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove

all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze

through the expansion tank filler neck until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the

engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.

The coolant level varies with the

temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above this mark.

Note the oil level on the end of the

dipstick, which should be between the upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.

Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).

On some models, the dipstick is brightly

coloured for easy identification. Refer to the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the exact location for each engine type

1 2

1 2 3

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

Weekly checks

Page 13

Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it.

l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

l On ABS models, switch the ignition off and pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the ignition.

Brake fluid level

0•13

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on

surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to

inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are

indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks. Disconnect the wiring plug (arrowed) before removing the cap.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap.

3 4

Screen washer fluid level

Some models have a visible reservoir,

whilst others have only the filler nozzle (arrowed) showing. Either way, the location is in the same place.

Top-up the washer reservoir using a propietary screen wash.

On models with only the filler tube fitted, a dipstick is fitted to show the quantity of

fluid left in the reservoir

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather . On no account use engine antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or damage paintwork.

1 2 3

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

master cylinder reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.

Weekly checks

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0•14

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight-

ahead.

4 The system should be at operating

temperature and the engine should be turned off.

Safety First:

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of

the specified type If the level is checked cold, use the “MIN” or “FULL COLD” mark. Recheck the level at operating temperature.

The fluid level should be up to the “MAX” or upper “HOT” mark

The power steering fluid reservoir is

located next to the coolant expansion tank. Clean around the filler cap and then remove it should topping up be required.

1 2 3

For the check to be accurate the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Power steering fluid level

Weekly checks

Electrical system

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.

Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in Chapter 13.

If more than one indicator light or

headlight has failed it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in Chapter 13). The fuses are mounted in a box in the engine compartment on the right-hand side of the bulkhead. Remove the loose cover (and spring clip if fitted), pulling the plastic clip, and removing the plastic cover.

If a single indicator light, brake light or

headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch above the brake pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation is described in Chapter 9.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall

or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2 3

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0•15

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm

fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end. On refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades;

if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

Weekly checks

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first” at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.

The battery is located on the left-hand

side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)

to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is

evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1 2

... as well as the battery cable clamps

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

Wiper blades

Page 16

0•16

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car , the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known

as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 2 3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Under-inflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Over-inflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Page 17

0•17

Weekly checks

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API SG/CD or better 2 Manual gearbox

4-speed (A, B and C type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec SQM-2C 9008-A 5-speed (N type) Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP, to Ford spec ESD-M2C 175-A 5-speed (MT75 type) Gear oil to Ford spec ESD-M2C 186-A

3 Automatic transmission ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A 4 Final drive Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP to Ford spec SQM-2C 9002-AA or 9003-AA 5 Power steering ATF to Ford spec SQM-2C 9010-A 6 Brake hydraulic system Brake fluid to Ford spec Amber SAM-1C 9103-A Fluid 7 Cooling system:

SOHC engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SSM-97 B-9103-A CVH engines Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec ESD-M97B49-A DOHC engine Soft water and antifreeze to Ford spec SDM-M97B49-A

Note: From 1992, the cooling system on all models is filled with a long-life coolant mixture in production (“4-Year Longlife Engine Coolant”/”Super Plus 40”). The manufacturers do not specify any renewal intervals for this later type of coolant as it is intended to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Provided any topping-up is carried out with a similar coolant mixture of the correct strength, coolant renewal is unnecessary. It is advisable to renew the coolant if the vehicle has covered a particularly high mileage, or if the history of the car is uncertain, but this is up to the discretion of the individual owner.

CVH engines SOHC and DOHC engines

Page 18

0•18

Weekly checks

Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations

Tyre pressures (cold) - lbf/in2(bar): Front Rear

All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* 26 (1.8) 26 (1.8)

All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)

Estate models with full load:

175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and

195/65 R 14T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 48 (2.8)

195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . 29 (2.0) 36 (2.5)

P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 (1.8) 36 (2.5)

P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 (3.5) 65 (4.5)

*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2(0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h) over 100 mph (160 km/h) A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload

Tyre pressures

Page 19

Engine

Oil filter type:

SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Valve clearances (cold):

SOHC:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

DOHC and CVH:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not applicable (hydraulic cam followers)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not applicable (hydraulic cam followers)

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Air cleaner inlet air temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Ford Sierra maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Pulse air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Radiator matrix and air conditioner condenser clean . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

1•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Page 20

Cooling system

Drivebelt tensions:

Air conditioning system compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.4 in) deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

under firm thumb pressure

Coolant pump/alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.4 in) deflection midway between coolant pump and

alternator (or power steering pump) pulleys under firm thumb pressure

Fuel system

Air filter element:

Carburettor type:

1.3 and 1.6 litre (SOHC - Ford carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W110

1.6 litre (SOHC - Weber carburettor) and 1.8 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . Champion W118

1.6 litre (SOHC - 1984-on) and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W219

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W152

Fuel injection type:

2.0 litre SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U507

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W219

Fuel filter:

All fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

Ignition system

Spark plugs: Make and type:

All except 1.8 CVH, CVH (R6A), 2.0 DOHC and P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RF7YC or F7YC

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC

Electrode gap*:

Champion F7YCC or RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)

Champion RF7YC, F7YC or RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm (0.028 in)

Ignition HT leads

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

All SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-09 or LS-10 boxed set

1.8 litre CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-10 boxed set

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-30 boxed set

2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-29 boxed set

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug:

SOHC and DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 16 to 21

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 15 to 22

Engine block coolant drain plug (where fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18

Manual gearbox:

Oil filler/level plug:

A,B,C and N types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 to 41 24 to 30

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Oil drain plug:

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

Final drive oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33

Roadwheel nuts:

Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . 70 to 100 52 to 74

P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 90 63 to 66

Spark plugs:

SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21

CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 33 13 to 24

DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 21 11 to 15

Brake caliper guide bolts:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 to 35 23 to 26

1•2 Servicing specifications

Page 21

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Capacities

Engine oil

SOHC engines:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

DOHC engine:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

1.6 litre CVH engine:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

1.8 CVH engines:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Cooling system (including heater)

SOHC engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 pints)

DOHC engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres (12.3 pints)

Fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.3 litres (12.8 pints)

CVH engines:

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R2A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 litres (16.7 pints)

1.8 litre (R6A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.9 litres (13.9 pints)

Fuel tank

All models except P100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.0 litres (13.2 gals)

P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.0 litres (14.5 gals)

Manual gearbox

A1 and A2 types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.98 litre (1.72 pints)

B type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.46 litres (2.57 pints)

C type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 litres (2.20 pints)

N type up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.90 litres (3.34 pints)

N type from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 litres (2.20 pints)

MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres (2.1 pints)

Automatic transmission

C3 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 pints)

A4LD type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 litres (15.0 pints)

Final drive (from dry)

All models except 1.3 and 1.6 litre Hatchback and P100 . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litre (1.6 pints)

1.3 and 1.6 litre Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 litre (1.4 pints)

P100 models (rear axle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.14 litres (2.0 pints)

Power steering

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.65 litre (1.14 pints)

Servicing specifications 1•3

1 Ford Sierra maintenance schedule

Page 22

1•4 Maintenance schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Check the engine oil level (Section 3) mm Check the engine coolant level (Section 3) mm Check the brake fluid level (Section 3) mm Check the power steering fluid level (Section 3) mm Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 3) mm Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear

or damage (Section 4)

mm Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures

(Section 4)

mm Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte

level - where applicable (Section 6)

mm Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the

wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 8) mm Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and rear)

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator

(Section 9)

mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid

leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts

(Section 11)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 12)

mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13) mm Clean oil filler cap (Section 14) mm Check idle speed (where applicable) (Section 15) mm Check mixture adjustment (where applicable)

(Section 16)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)

(Section 17)

mm Check manual gearbox oil level (Section 18) mm Check operation of latches, check straps and locks;

lubricate if necessary (Section 19)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 20) mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s);

adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21)

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and

neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22)

mm Check engine valve clearances - SOHC only

(Section 23)

mm Check handbrake mechanism (Section 24)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Check air cleaner inlet air temperature control

operation (carburettor models) (Section 36)

mm Renew pulse air filter element (1.6 litre CVH)

(Section 37)

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 38) mm Clean and inspect distributor cap and HT leads

(Section 39)

mm Check automatic transmission brake band

adjustment (Section 40)

mm Renew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only)

(Section 41)

mm Renew crankcase ventilation vent valve (SOHC and

DOHC) (Section 42)

mm Clean radiator matrix and air conditioning condenser

fins (where applicable) (Section 25)

mm Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (where

applicable) (Section 26)

mm Check final drive oil level (Section 27) mm Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown

linkage (Section 28)

mm Check security and condition of steering and

suspension components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)

mm Check condition and security of driveshaft joints and

gaiters (Section 30)

mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other

damage (Section 31)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32) mm Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (where

applicable) (Section 33)

mm Road test and check operation of ABS (Section 34) mm Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 35)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if

necessary (Section 43)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44) mm Renew camshaft drivebelt (optional on SOHC

models - compulsory on CVH) (Section 45)

mm Renew coolant (Section 46)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner (continued)

Page 23

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1985 2.0 litre SOHC

fuel injection model

1 Battery 2 Brake servo non-return valve 3 Ignition coil 4 Suspension strut top 5 Fuel filter 6 Air cleaner 7 Airflow meter 8 Fuel pressure regulator 9 Air inlet hose 10 Throttle body 11 Alternator 12 VIN plate 13 Windscreen washer reservoir 14 Coolant expansion tank 15 Oil filler cap 16 Idle speed control valve 17 Inlet manifold 18 Brake fluid reservoir 19 Fusebox 20 Windscreen wiper motor 21 Engine oil level dipstick

Underbonnet view of a 1983 2.0 litre SOHC

carburettor model (air cleaner removed)

1 Brake fluid reservoir 2 Windscreen wiper motor 3 Battery 4 Ignition coil 5 Carburettor 6 Distributor 7 Fuel pressure regulator 8 Thermostat housing 9 Radiator top hose 10 Upper fan shroud 11 Alternator 12 Windscreen washer reservoir 13 Oil filler cap 14 Cooler expansion tank 15 Suspension strut top 16 VIN plate 17 Fusebox

Page 24

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 1990 2.0 litre DOHC

fuel injection model

1 Battery 2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive valve 3 Ignition coil 4 Suspension strut top 5 Air cleaner 6 Plenum chamber 7 Idle speed control valve 8 Distributor 9 Oil filler cap 10 VIN plate 11 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck 12 Power steering fluid reservoir 13 Coolant expansion tank 14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor 15 Brake fluid reservoir 16 Inlet manifold 17 Fuel pressure regulator 18 Fusebox 19 Windscreen wiper motor

Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.8 litre (R2A)

CVH model (air cleaner removed)

1 Battery 2 Suspension strut top 3 Ignition coil 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Alternator 6 Distributor cap shroud 7 VIN plate 8 Electric cooling fan 9 Radiator top hose 10 Windscreen washer reservoir 11 Fuel vapour separator 12 Thermostat housing 13 Oil filler cap 14 Carburettor 15 Brake fluid reservoir 16 Engine oil level dipstick 17 Windscreen wiper motor 18 Fusebox

Page 25

Maintenance - component location 1•7

Front underside view of a 1990

2.0 GLS model

1 Horns 2 Tie-rod end 3 Tie-rod 4 Gaiter 5 Coolant pump 6 Suspension lower arm 7 Anti-roll bar 8 Starter motor 9 Exhaust downpipes 10 Crossmember 11 Engine sump 12 Oil filter 13 Power steering fluid pump 14 Windscreen washer reservoir 15 Cooling fans

Underbonnet view of a 1992 1.6 litre

CVH model (air cleaner removed)

1 Battery 2 Braking system deceleration-sensitive

valve 3 Suspension strut top 4 Coolant expansion tank 5 Pulse-air filter 6 Vacuum-operated air valve 7 Alternator 8 Cooling fans 9 Oil filler cap 10 Thermostat housing 11 VIN plate 12 Windscreen washer reservoir filler neck 13 Ignition module 14 Pulse-air control solenoid 15 CFI unit 16 Brake fluid reservoir 17 Engine oil level dipstick 18 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)

Sensor 19 Fusebox 20 Windscreen wiper motor

Page 26

1•8 Maintenance - component location

Rear underside view of a Hatchback

models

1 Fuel tank 2 Suspension lower arm 3 Lower shock absorber mounting 4 Suspension crossmember 5 Suspension guide plate 6 Final drive unit 7 Exhaust system 8 Propeller shaft 9 Driveshaft

Rear underside view of a P100 model

1 Suspension leaf spring 2 Rear axle 3 Shock absorber 4 Propeller shaft 5 Exhaust system 6 Handbrake cable adjuster 7 Brake load apportioning valve

Page 27

General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the

suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly

improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable

f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable

2 Introduction

See “Weekly checks”.

7 Wiper blade check

6 Battery electrolyte level check

5 Electrical system check

4 Tyre checks

3 Fluid level checks

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most

important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up

sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point (see

illustration).

8 Engine oil and filter renewal

Maintenance procedures 1•9

8.2 Sump drain plug location

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months

Page 28

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.

Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve! Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug. 4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque. 6 Move the container into position under the oil filter. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference section of this manual.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads can be inspected without removing the front wheels by inserting a mirror between each caliper and roadwheel (see illustration). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified thickness, all four pads (on both front wheels) must be renewed. 3 It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads can be viewed through the top of the caliper after removing the blanking spring clip (see illustration). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified, all four pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.

4 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake discs can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 10 for further information. 5 On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe friction material can be inspected for wear without removing the roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the brake backplate, and using an inspection lamp or torch, check that the friction material thickness is not less than the minimum given in the Specifications (see illustration). If any one of the shoes has worn below the specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as an axle set (4 shoes). 6 At the same interval, check the function of the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels, release the handbrake and switch on the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the warning light: it should come on as the level sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap. 7 On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual. 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil leaks, and investigate and rectify and problems found. 3 Check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future.

10 Fluid leak check

9 Front and rear brake pad/shoe

check

1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter

9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper inspection hole (roadwheel removed)

9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug (arrowed)

9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad friction material for wear

A Brake disc B Brake disc pads

Page 29

4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant, fuel, power steering and brake hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal pipes. If any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out. Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the oil cooler hoses and pipes. 10 Check the condition of all exposed wiring harnesses.

1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or other damage. If evident, renew the belt. 2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth using a little detergent only. 3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure that the original sequence of fitting of washers, bushes and anchor plates is retained.

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or supported on axle stands, check the exhaust system for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and check the rubber mountings for condition and security. Where damage or corrosion are evident, renew the system complete or in sections, as applicable, using the information given in Chapter 4.

With the wheels on the ground, slacken each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then retighten it immediately to the specified torque.

Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any sludge build-up using paraffin.

Inspect the vent hose for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a buildup of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks.

Ford VV carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the idle speed and CO content. Note that the CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds.

4 If necessary, adjust the idle speed screw to give the specified idle speed (see

illustration). 5 Checking and adjustment should be

completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, repeat paragraphs 3 and 4, ignoring the reference to starting the engine.

Weber 2V carburettor

Models without stepper motor

6 Proceed as described for the Ford VV

carburettor but note the following: 7 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner securing screws to allow easier access to the carburettor adjustment screws but ensure that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected. For adjustment screw location

(see illustrations).

Models with stepper motor (ESC II system)

8 The idle speed is controlled by the ESC II

module via the stepper motor. The only idle speed adjustment possible is provided by the “idle speed adjustment” wire, which can be earthed to raise the idle speed by 75 rpm. No other method of idle speed adjustment should be attempted. If the idle speed is incorrect, the problem should be referred to a Ford dealer, as the problem probably lies in the ESC II module for which special diagnostic equipment is required.

15 Engine idle speed check

14 Oil filler cap check

13 Roadwheel security check

12 Exhaust system check

11 Seat belt check

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11

15.7b Weber 2V carburettor adjustment screw locations - 1.6 litre models

A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw

15.7a Weber 2V carburettor adjustment

screw locations - 2.0 litre models up to 1985

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

15.4 Ford VV carburettor adjustment screw locations

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

Caution: Refer to the precautions in Section 1, Chapter 4, Part A or B (as

applicable), before proceeding. Before carrying out any carburettor adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To carry out the adjustments an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required.

Page 30

Pierburg 2V carburettor

9 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor. For adjustment screw location

(see illustration).

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor, noting the following points: 11 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected to the air cleaner and are free from restrictions. 12 When warming-up the engine, run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in.

13 For adjustment screw location (see illustration).

Fuel injection

2.0 litre SOHC models

14 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV

module and the only means of adjustment provided is by the yellow “idle speed adjustment” wire (Chapter 5, Section 17) which allows the idle speed to be raised by 75 rpm.

2.0 litre DOHC models

15 Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV

module, and manual adjustment is not possible. 16 The “base” idle speed can be adjusted, but only by a Ford dealer, using special equipment.

Ford VV carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads are switched off (headlamps, heater blower etc), then allow the engine to idle and check the idle speed and CO content. Note that the CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise after between 5 and 25 seconds. 4 If the reading noted in paragraph 3 is not as specified, proceed as follows. 5 Using a thin screwdriver, remove the tamperproof seal from the mixture screw.

6 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, then allow the engine to idle, and using a small screwdriver or a 4.0 mm Allen key, as applicable, adjust the mixture screw to give the specified CO content. 7 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, then repeat paragraph 6. 8 If necessary adjust the idle speed, then recheck the CO content. 9 On completion of the adjustments, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer and exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof seal to the mixture screw.

Weber 2V carburettor

Models without stepper motor

10 Proceed as described for the Ford VV

carburettor but note the following: 11 To remove the mixture screw tamperproof seal, it will be necessary to drill the seal in order to prise it from the mixture screw housing. Alternatively a self-tapping screw can be used to draw out the seal. If the tamperproof seal is to be renewed, ensure that a blue-coloured replacement seal is fitted. 12 It is permissible to loosen the air cleaner securing screws to allow easier access to the carburettor adjustment screws, but ensure that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected.

Models with stepper motor (ESC II system)

13 If necessary, the mixture can be adjusted

as described for the Ford VV carburettor with reference to paragraphs 11 and 12 of this Section. Do not attempt to adjust the idle speed on completion of mixture adjustment. For adjustment screw location (see illustration).

Pierburg 2V carburettor

14 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

15 Proceed as described for the Ford VV carburettor, noting the following points: 16 Ensure that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected to the air cleaner and are free from restrictions. 17 When warming-up the engine, run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in. 18 If adjustment of the mixture (CO content) is required, the air cleaner must be removed for access to the adjustment screw, as follows. 19 Remove the air cleaner, and prise the tamperproof seal from the mixture screw. 20 Loosely refit the air cleaner, ensuring that the vacuum pipe and the camshaft cover breather hose are securely connected and free from restrictions (there is no need to secure the air cleaner in position). 21 On completion, fit a new tamperproof seal to the mixture screw (the service replacement plug is coloured blue), and refit the air cleaner assembly.

Fuel injection

2.0 litre SOHC models

22 The idle mixture can be checked and if

necessary adjusted as follows: 23 Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 24 Stop the engine and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

16 Mixture adjustment check

1•12 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.9 Pierburg 2V carburettor adjustment screw locations

A Idle speed screw B Idle mixture screw

A Idle mixture screw B Idle speed screw

16.13 Weber 2V carburettor idle mixture adjustment screw location (arrowed) -

2.0 litre models from 1985

15.13 Weber 2V TLD carburettor adjustment screw locations

Caution: Refer to the precautions in Section 1, Chapter 4, Part A or B (as

Page 31

25 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads (headlamps, heater blower etc) are switched off, then allow the engine to idle and check the CO content. Note that the CO reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise. 26 If adjustment is necessary, remove the tamperproof cap from the base of the airflow meter, and turn the mixture screw using a suitable Allen key to give the specified CO content (see illustration). 27 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm, for 15 seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Recheck the CO content and carry out further adjustment if necessary. 28 On completion of adjustment, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer and exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof cap to the mixture screw.

2.0 litre DOHC models

29 On models with a catalytic converter, the

mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module. No manual adjustment is possible. 30 On models without a catalytic converter, the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows: 31 Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 32 Stop the engine, and connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. 33 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical loads (headlamps, heater blower, etc) are switched off. Allow the engine to idle, and check the CO content. Note that the reading will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise. 34 If adjustment is necessary, remove the cover from the mixture adjustment potentiometer (located at the rear right-hand

side of the engine compartment, behind the MAP sensor), and turn the screw to give the specified CO content (see illustrations). 35 If adjustment does not produce a change in reading, the potentiometer may be at the extreme of its adjustment range. To centralise the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw 20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anticlockwise, then repeat the adjustment procedure. 36 Checking and adjustment should be completed within 30 seconds of the meter readings stabilising. If this has not been possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15 seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Recheck the CO content, and carry out further adjustments if necessary. 37 On completion of adjustment, stop the engine, and disconnect the tachometer and the exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to the adjustment screw.

1 Fluid level should be checked with the transmission at operating temperature (after a run) and with the vehicle parked on level ground. 2 Open and prop the bonnet. With the engine idling and the handbrake and footbrake applied, move the gear selector through all positions three times, finishing up in position “P”, 3 Wait one minute. With the engine still idling, withdraw the transmission dipstick (see illustration). Wipe the dipstick with a clean lint-free rag, re-insert it fully and withdraw it again. Read the fluid level at the end of the dipstick: it should be between the two notches. 4 If topping-up is necessary, do so via the dipstick tube, using clean transmission fluid of the specified type (see illustration). Do not overfill. 5 Stop the engine, refit the dipstick and close the bonnet.

6 Note that if the fluid level was below the minimum mark when checked or is in constant need of topping-up, check around the transmission for any signs of excessive fluid leaks.If present, leaks must be rectified without delay. 7 If the colour of the fluid is dark brown or black this denotes the sign of a worn brake band or transmission clutches, in which case have your Ford dealer check the transmission at the earliest opportunity.

1 Place the vehicle over a pit, or raise and support it at front and rear. The vehicle must be level for an accurate check. 2 If the gearbox is hot after a run, allow it to cool for a few minutes. This is necessary because the oil can foam when hot and give a false level reading.

18 Manual gearbox oil level

check

17 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

16.34b . . . to enable mixture adjustment DOHC models

17.4 Topping-up the transmission fluid17.3 Automatic transmission dipstick

location and markings

16.34a Remove the cover from the mixture adjustment potentiometer . . .

16.26 Adjusting the idle mixture SOHC models

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months

Page 32

3 Wipe clean around the filler/level plug. Unscrew the plug and remove it (see illustration). 4 Using a suitably marked piece of bent wire

as a dipstick, check that the oil level is as shown in the table at the top of this page, according to gearbox type. 5 Top-up the level if necessary, using clean oil of the specified type. Do not overfill, as this can lead to leakage and difficult gear changing. Allow excess oil to drip out of the filler/level hole if necessary. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug on completion. 6 The frequent need for topping-up can only be due to leaks, which should be rectified. The most likely sources of leaks are the rear extension housing and input shaft oil seals. 7 No periodic oil changing is specified, and no drain plug is fitted.

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light machine oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed sections of inner cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Where applicable, check the operation of the central locking system. 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. 2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off before inspecting the HT leads to see if they carry their cylinder numbers. Note that the position of No 1 cylinder HT lead in the distributor cap is marked with either a pip, or a number “1 “.

3 Where necessary, for improved access remove the air cleaner and/or the inlet hose. 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the leads. 5 On 2.0 litre DOHC carburettor models, the location of the spark plugs and the close proximity of the carburettor makes spark plug access difficult, particularly when removing the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3. It is suggested that a 3/8 inch ratchet drive spark plug socket with rubber insert and long extension bar is used, possibly in conjunction with a universal joint adapter. It is also advisable to disconnect No 3 cylinder HT lead from the distributor first, to allow some slack for disconnection at the spark plug. 6 Clean the area around each spark plug using a small brush, then using a plug spanner (preferably with a rubber insert), unscrew and remove the plugs (see illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any foreign matter. 7 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight. As the plugs incorporate taper seats, make sure that the threads and seats are clean.

8 On DOHC models before refitting the spark plugs, coat their threads with suitable antiseize compound, taking care not to contaminate the electrodes. 9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then tighten them to the specified torque. Do not

exceed the torque figure.

10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark plugs, and where applicable refit the air cleaner and/or inlet hose.

1 Refer to the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter and check the tension of each drivebelt at the point stated. Check the full length of each drivebelt for cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the engine in order to check that portion of the drivebelt in contact with the pulleys. Renew or tension each belt as necessary as follows, according to model type:

SOHC models

2 Note that two drivebelts are fitted to models equipped with power steering and both should be renewed if either one is unserviceable. Where fitted, the air conditioning compressor is driven by a separate belt.

3 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 4 Where applicable, remove the air

conditioning compressor drivebelt. 5 Loosen the alternator mounting and adjustment nuts and bolts, and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder block. 6 Slip the drivebelt(s) from the alternator, water pump, crankshaft and (where applicable) the power steering pump pulleys. 7 Fit the new drivebelt(s) over the pulleys, then lever the alternator away from the cylinder block until the specified belt tension is achieved. Lever the alternator using a wooden or plastic lever at the pulley end to prevent damage and straining the brackets. It is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt(s).

21 Auxiliary drivebelt check

20 Spark plug renewal

19 Hinge and lock check and

lubrication

1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

18.3 Gearbox filler/level plug location (arrowed) - N type gearbox

20.6 Removing a spark plug - CVH engine

Note: The vehicle build code appears as the twelfth and thirteenth characters of the VIN number on the plate in the engine compartment.

Gearbox type

All four-speed gearboxes

All five-speed gearboxes up to April 1984 (build code E6) except those subsequently fitted with a modified extension housing

All five-speed gearboxes from May 1984 (build code EC) to end of April 1985 (build code FP) and all vehicles built up to April 1984 (build code E6) subsequently fitted with a modified gearbox extension housing

All five-speed gearboxes from May 1985

Oil level

0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in) below lower edge of filler/level hole

Level with bottom edge of filler/level hole

20.0 to 25.0 mm (0.79 to 0.99 in) below lower edge of filler/level hole

0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.2 in)below lower edge of filler/level hole

Number each HT lead using sticky tape or paint before removal so as to avoid confusion when refitting.

Page 33

8 Tighten the alternator mounting and adjustment nuts and bolts in the order shown

(see illustration). 9 Where applicable, refit and tension the air

conditioning compressor drivebelt.

10 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 11 Drivebelt tension should be rechecked

and if necessary adjusted after the engine has been run for a minimum of ten minutes.

DOHC models

12 Three different types of drivebelt arrangement are used, depending on model (see illustrations). On models without power

steering, the drivebelt is tensioned by moving the alternator. On models with power steering, the power steering pump is also driven by the coolant pump/alternator drivebelt and an automatic belt tensioner is fitted (see illustration). On models with air conditioning, the drivebelt drives the alternator, coolant pump, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, and an automatic belt tensioner is fitted. 13 On models without power steering, loosen the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts, and pivot the alternator towards the cylinder block. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 14 On models with power steering, the automatic tensioner can be released using a 17 mm socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre of the pulley. Lever the tensioner assembly clockwise, slide the belt from the pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner. 15 To fit a new belt on models without power steering, slide the belt over the pulleys, then lever the alternator away from the cylinder block until the correct belt tension is achieved. Lever the alternator using a plastic or wooden lever at the pulley end to prevent damage. It is helpful to partially tighten the adjustment link bolt before tensioning the drivebelt. When the correct tension is achieved, tighten all the bolts. 16 To fit a new belt on models with power steering, lever the tensioner clockwise as during removal, then slide the belt over the pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner.

1 The battery fitted as original equipment is “maintenance-free”, and requires no

maintenance apart from having the case kept clean, and the terminals clean and tight. 2 To clean the battery terminals disconnect them, after having first removed the cover (later models) - negative earth first. Use a wire brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get inside the battery. 3 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound before reconnecting them. Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten. 4 Keep the top of the battery clean and dry. Inspect the battery tray for corrosion, and make good as necessary.

SOHC engines

1 The valve clearances must be checked with the engine cold. On carburettor models remove the air cleaner. 2 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and release them from the clips on the camshaft cover. 3 On fuel injection models, unbolt and remove the bracing strut securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder head. 4 Where applicable, unclip any hoses and wires from the camshaft cover, then unscrew the securing bolts and remove the camshaft cover and gaskets. Take care not to lose the spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads, where applicable.

23 Engine valve clearance

check

22 Battery terminal check

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

21.12b Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with

power steering

1 Alternator 2 Automatic belt

tension

3 Coolant pump

4 Crankshaft pulley 5 Power steering

pump

21.12d Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt tensioner indicator position -

2.0 litre DOHC engine

Inset shows tensioner at maximum

adjustment

1 Alternator 2 Automatic belt

tensioner

3 Coolant pump

4 Air conditioning

compressor 5 Crankshaft pulley 6 Power steering

pump

21.12c Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine with

power steering and air conditioning

21.12a Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt arrangement - 2.0 litre DOHC engine

without power steering

1 Alternator 2 Coolant pump

3 Crankshaft

pulley

21.8 Alternator mounting tightening sequence - SOHC engines

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read through the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual.

It will be easier to turn the engine by hand if the spark plugs are removed but take care not to allow dirt to enter

the spark plug holes.

Page 34

5 Numbering from the front (camshaft sprocket) end of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7, and the inlet valves are 2, 4, 6 and 8. 6 Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing vertically upwards (see illustration). 7 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness (see Specifications) between the cam follower and the heel of the No 1 valve cam lobe. The feeler blade should be a firm sliding fit. If not, loosen the locknut and adjust the ball-pin position accordingly by turning the adjuster

nut, then tighten the locknut (see illustrations). Allowance must be made for tightening the locknut, as this tends to decrease the valve clearance. Recheck the adjustment after tightening the locknut. 8 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 6 and 7 for the remaining valves. With the carburettor/inlet manifold fitted, some difficulty may be experienced when adjusting the exhaust valve clearances, and a suitable open-ended spanner bent to 90º will be found helpful. 9 Check the condition of the camshaft cover gasket, and renew if necessary. Fit the gasket to the camshaft cover ensuring that the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly located (see illustration), then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts in the order shown (see illustration), ensuring that the spacer plates are in position under the bolt heads, where applicable. 10 On fuel injection models, refit the inlet manifold bracing strut. 11 Where applicable refit the spark plugs. Reconnect the HT leads and locate them in the clips on the camshaft cover. 12 Where applicable, refit any wires and hoses to the clips on the camshaft cover and on carburettor models, refit the air cleaner.

DOHC and CVH engines

13 These engines are fitted with hydraulic cam followers therefore no adjustment is necessary.

Chock the front roadwheels and jack the rear wheels clear of the ground, supporting the vehicle with axlestands.

Check that with the handbrake released, the rear wheels are free to rotate and no brake “bind” is evident. The handbrake lever travel should be between two and four clicks of the ratchet. If brake “bind” or excessive lever travel is evident, check the handbrake cable routing and check the self-adjuster mechanism for wear or damage. Refer to Chapter 10 for full service information.

Gain access to the radiator matrix by removing the surrounding body panels, fan shrouds, etc. Clean dirt and debris from the matrix using an air jet or water and a soft brush. Be careful not to damage the fins or cut your fingers.

Remove the protecting grille and clean any leaves, insects etc. from the air conditioner condenser coil and fins. Be very careful not to damage the condenser fins: use a soft brush, or a compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins.

1 If applicable, remove the radiator grille being careful not to damage the condenser fins. 2 Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The engine should be cold and the ambient temperature should be between 64° and 77°F (18° and 25°C). 3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe the refrigerant sight glass (see illustration) and have an assistant switch on the air conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles should be seen in the sight glass as the system starts up, but all bubbles should disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the

26 Air conditioner refridgerant

charge check

25 Radiator matrix and air

conditioner condenser clean

24 Handbrake check

1•16 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

23.6 Cam lobe correctly positioned for checking valve clearance. Insert feeler

gauge as shown by arrow

23.7b Adjusting a valve clearance

26.3 Air conditioning system refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)

23.9b Camshaft cover bolts (A) and spacer plates (B)

Tighten bolts in following stages:

Stage 1 Bolts 1 to 6 Stage 2 Bolts 7 and 8 Stage 3 Bolts 9 and 10 Stage 4 Bolts 7 and 8 (again)

23.9a Camshaft cover gasket dovetails

23.7a Using a feeler gauge to check a valve clearance

Page 35

system immediately if the charge is low and do not use it again until it has been recharged. 4 Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and unions for security and good condition. Refit the radiator grille. 5 The air conditioning system will lose a proportion of its charge through normal seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as a maintenance operation.

1 Check the final drive oil level as follows. 2 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at

front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The vehicle must be level. 3 Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole. 4 If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear oil of the specified type. Do not overfill. Frequent need for topping-up can only be due to leaks, which should be rectified. 5 When the level is correct, refit the filler/level plug and tighten it to the specified torque loading. 6 There is no requirement for periodic oil changing, and no drain plug is provided.

Lubricate the transmission selector and kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol lubricant.

1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the vehicle up and down at each corner in turn. When released, it should come to rest within one complete oscillation. Continued movement, or squeaking and groaning noises from the shock absorber suggests that renewal is required . 2 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all steering and suspension components for wear and damage. Pay particular attention to dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed promptly when damaged can save further damage to the component protected. 3 At the same intervals, check the front suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by levering up the arms (see illustration). Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can be checked in a similar manner, or by observing them whilst an assistant rocks the steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must be renewed .

4 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any roughness or excessive noise indicates worn bearings, which must be renewed, as no adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any wear will be evident unless the vehicle has covered a very high mileage. It should be noted that it is normal for the bearings to exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as wheel rock at the wheel rim.

1 Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters. Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be renewed without delay to avoid damage occurring to the joint itself 3 Check the tightness of the final drive mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steamcleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary.

2 Steam-cleaning is available at many garages and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. 3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 4 Using a strong light, work around the underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to Chapter 12 for details of repair.

Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

On carburettor models which incorporate a stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good electrical contact between the motor plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to maintain a regular idle speed.

Clean the plunger and adjusting screw contact faces with abrasive paper followed by switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is available from electronic component shops.

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn to check that it functions properly.

34 Road test

33 Idle speed linkage clean

32 Brake pipe and hose check

31 Underbody inspection

30 Driveshaft check

29 Steering and suspension

security check

28 Automatic transmission

selector linkage lubrication

27 Final drive oil level check

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17

29.3 Levering up lower arm to check balljoint for wear

27.3b Rear axle filler plug location P100 models

27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location (arrowed) -

Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models

Page 36

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating.

9 Where applicable, check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 12 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 13 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the

lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks (see

illustration). 2 On carburettor model SOHC engines, clean

the oil filler cap with paraffin and check that the vent valve is not blocked by pulling it from the oil separator and loosening the hose clip (Section 42). 3 On CVH engines, check that the oil separator and mushroom valve are not blocked, and clean if necessary (see

illustration).

35 Crankcase ventilation system

check

SOHC and DOHC carburettor models

1 A vacuum pump will be required to test the control components.

2 To check the operation of the air temperature control, the engine must be cold. First observe the position of the flap valve which should be fully closed prior to starting the engine (see illustration). The position of the flap can be observed by disconnecting the cold air inlet hose from the air cleaner spout and looking into the spout. 3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check that the flap is now fully open to admit hot air from the exhaust manifold shroud. If the flap does not fully open, stop the engine and check the vacuum diaphragm unit and heat sensor as follows (see illustrations).

4 Working under the base of the air cleaner body, disconnect the diaphragm unit-to-heat sensor vacuum pipe at the sensor end, and connect a vacuum pump to the diaphragm unit. Apply a vacuum of 100.0 mm (4.0 in) of mercury. 5 If the flap opens, then the heat sensor is faulty and should be renewed. If the flap remains closed, then the diaphragm unit is faulty, and a new air cleaner body will have to be obtained, as the diaphragm unit is not available separately. 6 On completion of the checks, disconnect the vacuum pump, and reconnect the vacuum pipe and cold air inlet hose.

36 Air cleaner inlet air

temperature control check

1•18 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

35.1 Loosening the crankcase ventilation hose clip - CVH models

36.3b Air cleaner heat sensor viewed from inside air cleaner - OHC models

36.3a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit OHC models

36.2 Air cleaner flap valve operation OHC models

A Flap fully open to admit hot air

B Flap fully closed to admit cold air

35.3 Oil separator (1) and mushroom valve (2) locations in air cleaner - CVH models

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years

Page 37

CVH carburettor models

7 To test the unit the engine must initially be cold. Disconnect the hot air inlet hose from the air cleaner spout and observe the position of the flap which should be fully open to allow only hot air to enter (see illustration). 8 Refit the hose and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. 9 Disconnect the hot air inlet hose again, and observe the position of the flap which should be fully closed to admit only cold air. 10 If the flap positions are not as described, the waxstat is defective and the complete air cleaner must be renewed as the waxstat is not available separately. 11 On completion of the checks, stop the engine and reconnect the hot air inlet hose.

1 The pulse-air filter is located at the front left-hand side of the engine compartment. 2 To renew the element, simply unclip the filter cover, then lift out the metal gauze, and withdraw the filter element (see illustration). 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the holes in the gauze and the filter element are positioned on the engine side of the filter housing.

Carburettor models

1 Remove the screws from the top of the air cleaner cover (see illustration). 2 Where applicable release the spring clips around the edge of the cover, then lift or prise off the cover (see illustration). 3 Lift out the air cleaner element. Wipe the inside of the air cleaner body clean, taking care not to allow dirt to enter the carburettor throat. Also clean the inside of the cover. 4 Place a new element in position, then refit the air cleaner cover.

Fuel-injection models

All models except 2.0 litre DOHC

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 6 Depress the locking clip on the airflow

meter wiring plug and disconnect the plug. Pull on the plug, not the wiring (see

illustration). 7 Loosen the securing clip and disconnect

the air inlet hose from the airflow meter. 8 Release the four securing clips and lift off the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter.

9 Lift out the old air cleaner element (see illustration), then wipe the inside of the air

cleaner casing and lid clean. 10 Fit the new element with the sealing lip uppermost. 11 Refit the air cleaner lid and secure with the four clips. 12 Reconnect the air inlet hose to the airflow meter, ensuring that the securing clip is correctly aligned (see illustration). Reconnect the wiring plug.

38 Air cleaner element renewal

37 Pulse air filter element

renewal (1.6 litre CVH)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•19

37.2 Withdrawing the pulse-air filter

element and gauze - 1.6 litre CVH models

38.12 Air intake hose clip correctly aligned38.9 Unclip the lid and remove the air

cleaner element

38.6 Disconnecting the airflow meter wiring plug

38.2 . . . release the spring clips, and lift off the cover for access to the element

38.1 Remove the air cleaner cover screws . . .

36.7 Air cleaner flap valve operation - CVH models

A Flap fully open to admit hot air B Flap fully closed to admit cold air 1 Air inlet spout 2 Hot air inlet hose

3 Flap valve 4 Link arm 5 Waxstat 6 Air cleaner body

Page 38

13 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

2.0 litre DOHC models

14 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 15 Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle

speed control valve at the front of the plenum chamber. 16 Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet hose from the air inlet tubing. 17 Unscrew the securing nut, and release the air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine compartment front panel (see illustration). 18 Release the air cleaner lid securing clips, then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly, disconnecting the breather hose from the air inlet tube.

19 Lift out the air cleaner element (see illustration), then wipe the inside of the air

cleaner lid and casing clean. 20 Fit the new element with the sealing lip uppermost.

21 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

1 Before disturbing any part of the ignition

system, disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before disconnecting them from the spark plugs. 3 Refer to the appropriate Section in Chapter 5 and, where applicable, remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. 4 Clean the HT leads and distributor cap with a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other

deposits from the connectors and terminals. Also clean the coil tower. 5 Renew the HT leads if they are cracked, burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter is available, measure the resistance of the leads. The desired value is given in the Specifications of Chapter 5. 6 Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of “tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the centre of the cap, make sure that it moves freely, and is not excessively worn (see

illustration). 7 Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with

fine abrasive paper. Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.

8 Refit the rotor arm and distributor cap. 9 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs

and coil.

10 Reconnect the battery and run the engine.

Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool

No 17-005, or a conventional torque wrench and a splined socket of suitable size to fit the square section head of the adjuster screw(s) will be required for this operation.

1 For improved access, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

2 The brake band adjuster screw(s) is/are situated on the left-hand side of the transmission housing, forward of the kickdown lever. Note that the C3 type transmission has a single adjuster screw for adjustment of the front brake band, whereas the A4LD type transmission has two adjuster screws for adjustment of the front and intermediate brake bands (see illustration). 3 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the kickdown lever on the transmission housing. 4 Loosen the locknut on the front brake band adjuster screw, and back off the adjuster screw several turns. 5 Using the Ford special tool or a suitable equivalent, tighten the adjuster screw to the specified torque, then back off the screw two complete turns, and tighten the locknut. Ensure that the adjuster screw does not turn as the locknut is tightened. 6 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 4 and 5 for the remaining adjuster screw on A4LD type transmissions, but on all models where the part number on the transmission identification tag starts with “88” (see illustration) and additionally on all 1.8 CVH engine models, the adjuster screw should be backed off two and a half turns after tightening to the specified torque. On all other models, the adjuster screw should be backed off two turns. 7 Reconnect the kickdown cable, and lower the vehicle to the ground on completion.

2.0 litre SOHC fuel injection models

1 The fuel filter is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment (see

illustration). 2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Position a suitable container beneath the

filter, then slowly loosen the fuel inlet union to relieve the pressure in the fuel lines. 4 Disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Be prepared for petrol spillage. If necessary, identify the fuel line unions for use when refitting. 5 Loosen the filter clamp screw, and withdraw the filter from the clamp. Drain the petrol from the filter into the container. Dispose of the filter carefully.

41 Fuel filter renewal

40 Automatic transmission

brake band adjustment

39 Ignition system component

check

1•20 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

38.17 Air intake tube securing nut (arrowed)

39.6 Bosch distributor cap showing HT segments (A) and carbon brush (B)

40.6 Transmission identification tag with part number starting with “88”

40.2 Brake band adjustment - A4LD type transmission

A Adjuster screws B Locknuts

C Kickdown lever

38.19 Lifting out the air cleaner element

Caution: Refer to the precautions in Chapter 4, Part B, Section 1 before proceeding.

Page 39

6 Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow. 7 Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the unions are correctly connected. 8 Reconnect the battery negative lead, and check the fuel line unions for leaks, pressurising the system by switching the ignition on and off several times.

All models except 2.0 litre SOHC

9 Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHC

models, noting the following points. 10 The fuel filter is located under the rear of the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see illustration). For access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 11 To remove the filter, the mounting bracket must first be removed from the floor, after unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can then be removed from the bracket after unscrewing the clamp bolt.

On carburettor model SOHC engines, renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by pulling it from the oil separator and loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil separator grommet.

42 Crankcase ventilation vent

valve renewal

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the brake system seals and hoses, then renew defective items whilst referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 10.

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon). 2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels.

3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap. 4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.

Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing the free end of each tube in a jar. 5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke to allow the master cylinder to refill. 6 When air emerges from both bleed screws, stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper without disconnecting it and remove the inboard brake pad. 7 Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges from the bleed screw again.

8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so that the piston is not accidentally ejected. 9 Repeat the purging operation on the righthand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the bleed screw yet. 10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the bleed screw. 11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a downstroke. 12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of the piston. Have the assistant depress the brake pedal gently in order to move the caliper piston out. 13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal can now be released. 14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the righthand brake pad and caliper. 15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard pad again. Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand caliper.

16 Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10). 17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle

and tighten the wheel nuts. 18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up to the discs, then make a final check of the hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the reservoir cap.

Camshaft drivebelt renewal is recommended as a precautionary measure for SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the appropriate renewal procedure.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 It is preferable to drain the cooling system

with the engine cold. If this is not possible, take precautions against scalding when removing the expansion tank cap. Place a thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a little to release any pressure. When all pressure has been released, carry on unscrewing the cap and remove it. 3 Early models have no radiator drain plug, so the radiator must be drained by detaching the bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC models have a drain plug located in the base of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all CVH models have a drain plug in the right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC models have a plug to the bottom right-hand side of the radiator.

46 Engine coolant renewal

45 Camshaft drivebelt renewal

44 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

43 Brake hydraulic system seal

and hose renewal

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21

42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve from the oil separator

41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under rear of vehicle

41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union arrowed

Caution: Before proceeding, note the precautions given in Chapter 3, Section 1.

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years

Page 40

4 Certain SOHC models have a bleed spigot

on the thermostat housing, which is covered by a rubber cap. The cap should be removed from the spigot before commencing draining

(see illustration). 5 With the expansion tank cap removed,

place a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose or drain plug as applicable. 6 On early models, loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose away from the radiator outlet. On later models, unscrew the drain plug (see illustrations). Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 7 On SOHC models, place a second container beneath the drain plug on the right-hand side of the cylinder block (see illustration). Unscrew the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain into the container. No cylinder block drain plug is fitted on CVH and DOHC models.

8 Dispose of the drained coolant safely. 9 After some time the radiator and engine

waterways may become restricted or even blocked with scale or sediment, which reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. When this occurs, the coolant will appear rusty and dark in colour and the system should then be flushed. 10 Disconnect the top hose from the radiator, then insert a garden hose and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clear from the outlet. 11 Insert the hose in the expansion tank filler neck and allow water to run out of the bottom hose (and cylinder block on SOHC models) until clear. If, after a reasonable period the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 12 Disconnect the inlet hose from the inlet manifold, connect the garden hose and allow water to circulate through the manifold, automatic choke (where applicable), heater and out through the bottom hose until clear. 13 In severe cases of contamination the system should be reverse flushed. To do this, remove the radiator, invert it and insert a hose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the inlet. 14 The engine should also be reverse flushed. To do this, remove the thermostat

and insert the hose into the cylinder head on SOHC models, or into the inlet manifold on CVH and DOHC models. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the bottom hose (and cylinder block on SOHC models). 15 Where applicable, refit the radiator and the thermostat. 16 Reconnect any disturbed hoses and refit and tighten the cylinder block drain plug and/or radiator drain plug, as applicable. 17 On SOHC models fitted with a bleed spigot on the thermostat housing, ensure that the rubber cap is removed before refilling the system. 18 Pour coolant in through the expansion tank filler hole until the level is up to the “MAX” mark. 19 Where applicable, refit the rubber cap to the bleed spigot when coolant starts to emerge from the spigot. Tighten the clip. 20 Squeeze the coolant hoses to help disperse air locks. Top-up the coolant further if necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion tank cap. 21 Run the engine up to operating temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re-check the coolant level. Top-up the level as necessary, taking care to avoid scalding as the expansion tank cap is removed.

1•22 Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

46.4 Unscrew the clip and remove the rubber cap from the bleed spigot -

SOHC models

46.6b Radiator drain plug (arrowed) - later CVH models

46.7 Cylinder block drain plug (arrowed) SOHC models (engine removed)

46.6a Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator - early OHC models

Page 41

1.3 litre engine

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2

Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JCT

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.02 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.00 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1294 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0:1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5800 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 kW at 5700 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Nm at 3100 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.000 to 79.010 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.010 to 79.020 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.020 to 79.030 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.030 to 79.040 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.510 to 79.520 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.520 to 79.530 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.530 to 79.540 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.030 to 79.040 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.530 to 79.540 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.030 to 80.040 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

SOHC engines

Auxiliary shaft - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Camshaft and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . . .24

Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Crankcase ventilation system - inspection and maintenance . . . . . . .4

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .35

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .36

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .20

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .21

Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .10

Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .12

Engine dismantling,examination, renovation and reassembly - general

information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Engine/manual gearbox - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .11

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .26

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .6

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . .33

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Timing belt and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 42

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.28 mm (0.003 to 0.011 in)

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.064 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.970 to 56.990 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.720 to 56.740 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.470 to 56.490 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.220 to 56.240 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.970 to 55.990 mm

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30 to 2.35 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50 to 2.55 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.980 to 52.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.730 to 51.750 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.480 to 51.500 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.230 to 51.250 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.980 to 51.000 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.965 to 78.975 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.975 to 78.985 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.985 to 78.995 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.995 to 79.005 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.990 to 79.015 mm

Service oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.490 to 79.515 mm

Service oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.990 to 80.015 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 30’ to 45º 00’

Service correction cutter*:

Upper correction angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30º

Lower correction angle:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75º

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62.5º

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valve guide bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.063 to 8.088 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.263 to 8.288 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.463 to 8.488 mm

*Not for use with hardened valve seats

Camshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.104 to 0.204 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in)

Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.98 to 4.01 mm (0.156 to 0.158 in)

Bearing journal diameter:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.987 to 42.013 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.607 to 44.633 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.987 to 45.013 mm

Valves

Valve clearance (cold engine):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12º ATDC

Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.00 mm (1.85 in)

2A•2 SOHC engines

Page 43

Inlet valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.625 to 8.643 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.825 to 8.843 mm

Exhaust valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.599 to 8.617 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.799 to 8.817 mm

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API

SG/CD or better

Oil capacity:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.153 to 0.304 mm (0.006 to 0.012 in)

Inner rotor to outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.200 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.039 to 0.104 mm (0.002 to 0.004 in)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 102 65 to 75

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 47 30 to 35

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

Strength class 8.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 60 41 to 44

Strength class 10.9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 to 70 47 to 52

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Sump bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 0.7 to 1.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 3 (after running engine for 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15 9 to 11

Valve adjustment ball-pin locknuts:

7 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 50 33 to 37

8 mm thick nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 55 37 to 41

Cylinder head bolts:

Splined type bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 55 30 to 41

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 70 37 to 52

Stage 3 (after 20 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 to 83 54 to 61

Stage 4 (after running engine for 15 minutes at 1000 rpm) . . . . . . 95 to 115 70 to 85

Torx type bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 75 52 to 55

Stage 3 (after 5 minutes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90º

Camshaft cover bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 1.5 to 2

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 17 10 to 13

Timing belt tensioner bolts:

Models with tensioner spring:

Spring bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

Pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Models without tensioner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18

Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 14 8 to 10

Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

SOHC engines 2A•3

Page 44

1.6 litre engine

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2

Engine codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LCS, LCT, LSD and LSE

LCS and LCT LSD and LSE

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.67 mm 81.32 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.00 mm 76.95 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1593 cc 1597 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2 : 1 9.5 : 1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar 11 to 13 bar

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5800 rpm 5950 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 kW at 5300 rpm 55 kW at 4900 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Nm at 2900 rpm 123 Nm at 2900 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter LCS and LCT LSD and LSE

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.650 to 87.660 mm 81.300 to 81.310 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.660 to 87.670 mm 81.310 to 81.320 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.670 to 87.680 mm 81.320 to 81.330 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.680 to 87.690 mm 81.330 to 81.340 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.160 to 88.170 mm 81.810 to 81.820 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.170 to 88.180 mm 81.820 to 81.830 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.180 to 88.190 mm 81.830 to 81.840 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.680 to 87.690 mm 81.330 to 81.340 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.180 to 88.190 mm 81.830 to 81.840 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.680 to 88.690 mm 82.330 to 82.340 mm

Crankshaft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness from 1987:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28 to 2.33 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.48 to 2.53 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter: LCS and LCT LSD and LSE

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.615 to 87.625 mm 81.265 to 81.275 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.625 to 87.635 mm 81.275 to 81.285 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.635 to 87.645 mm 81.285 to 81.295 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.645 to 87.655 mm 81.295 to 81.305 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.640 to 87.665 mm 81.290 to 81.315 mm

Service oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.140 to 88.165 mm 81.790 to 81.815 mm

Service oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.640 to 88.665 mm 82.290 to 82.315 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm 0.400 to 1.400 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)

Cylinder head

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Camshaft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Endfloat:

Engine codes LCS, LCT and LSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.104 to 0.204 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in)

Engine code LSD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.090 to 0.170 mm (0.003 to 0.007 in)

Valves

Specification as for 1.3 litre engine

Lubrication system

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Torque wrench settings

Specification as for 1.3 litre engine

2A•4 SOHC engines

Page 45

1.8 litre engine

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in line, single overhead camshaft

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2

Engine codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REB and RED

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5850 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66kW at 5400 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Nm at 3500 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.180 to 86.190 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.190 to 86.200 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.200 to 86.210 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.210 to 86.220 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.690 to 86.700 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.700 to 86.710 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.710 to 86.720 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.210 to 86.220 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.710 to 86.720 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.210 to 87.220 mm

Crankshaft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness from 1987:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28 to 2.33 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.48 to 2.53 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.145 to 86.155 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.155 to 86.165 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.165 to 86.175 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.175 to 86.185 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.170 to 86.195 mm

Service oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.670 to 86.695 mm

Service oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.170 to 86.195 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)

Cylinder head and camshaft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Valves

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Valve clearance (cold engine):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.03 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

Valve timing:

Inlet opens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º ABDC

Exhaust opens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC

Lubrication system

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Torque wrench settings

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

SOHC engines 2A•5

Page 46

2.0 litre engine

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2

Engine codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NES and NET (carburettor, except P100), NRB and N4A (fuel

injection), and NAE (P100)

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.82 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1993 cc

Compression ratio:

All except engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2:1

Engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2:1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed:

All except engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar

Engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 bar

Maximum continuous engine speed:

Engine code NES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5850 rpm

Engine codes NET and NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5800 rpm

Engine codes NRB and N4A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6050 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN):

Engine codes NES and NET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77kW at 5200 rpm

Engine codes NRB and N4A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85kW at 5500 rpm

Engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57kW at 4500 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN):

Engine codes NES and NET. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Nm at 4000 rpm

Engine codes NRB and N4A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Nm at 4000 rpm

Engine code NAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Nm at 2800 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.800 to 90.810 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.810 to 90.820 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.820 to 90.830 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.310 to 91.320 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.320 to 91.330 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.830 to 90.840 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.330 to 91.340 mm

Oversize 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.830 to 91.840 mm

Crankshaft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness:

All except engine codes NES, NET, NRB and N4A from 1987:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30 to 2.35 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.50 to 2.55 mm

Engine codes NES, NET, NRB and N4A from 1987:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28 to 2.33 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.48 to 2.53 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.765 to 90.775 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.775 to 90.785 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.785 to 90.795 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.795 to 90.805 mm

Standard service:

Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.780 to 90.805 mm

From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.790 to 90.815 mm

Service oversize 0.5:

Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.280 to 91.305 mm

From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.290 to 91.315 mm

Service oversize 1.0:

Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.780 to 91.805 mm

From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.790 to 91.815 mm

2A•6 SOHC engines

Page 47

Piston ring end gap:

Top:

Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm

From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm

Centre:

Up to 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.048 mm

From 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 0.600 mm

Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.400 mm

Auxiliary shaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.204 mm (0.002 to 0.008 in)

Cylinder head

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Valves

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Valve clearance (cold engine):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in)

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 ± 0.003 mm (0.010 ± 0.001 in)

Valve timing: All except code NAE Engine code NAE

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC 18º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º ABDC 58º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70º BBDC 70º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC 6º ATDC

Lubrication system

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Specifications as for 1.3 litre engine except for the following:

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

Fuel injection models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 to 130 85 to 96

Fuel injection models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85

SOHC engines 2A•7

The engine is of a four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft type, mounted at the front of the vehicle and available in 1.3,

1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre versions.

The crankshaft incorporates five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main bearing in order to control crankshaft endfloat.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt and operates the slightly angled valves via cam followers which pivot on ball-pins.

The auxiliary shaft which is also driven by the toothed belt, drives the distributor, oil pump and fuel pump.

The cylinder head is of crossflow design with the inlet manifold mounted on the lefthand side and the exhaust manifold mounted on the right-hand side.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump which draws oil through a strainer located inside the sump, and forces it through a fullflow filter into the engine oil galleries where it is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends. The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The camshaft followers are supplied with oil via a

drilled spray tube from the centre camshaft bearing.

A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system is employed whereby piston blow-by gases are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil separator and control valve.

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 8.

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.

1 When engine performance is poor, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel system, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is performed regularly it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent.

2 The engine must be at operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged and the spark plugs must be removed. The services of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which screws into the spark plug hole is to be preferred.) 4 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine on the starter. Record the highest reading obtained on the compression tester. 5 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure developed in each. 6 Desired pressures are given in the Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test. 7 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore, piston or piston ring wear was responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 8 A low reading from the two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket between them having blown. 9 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.

5 Compression test

4 Crankcase ventilation system -

inspection and maintenance

3 Valve clearances - checking and

adjustment

2 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 General information

Page 48

The following operations can be carried out without removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder

head

b) Removal of the camshaft after removal of

the cylinder head c) Removal of the timing belt and sprockets d) Removal of the sump e) Removal of the oil pump f) Removal of the pistons and connecting

rods g) Removal of the big-end bearings h) Removal of the engine mountings i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel j) Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil

seals k) Removal of the auxiliary shaft

The following operations can only be carried out after removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings b) Removal of the crankshaft

The engine may be lifted out either on its own, or together with the manual gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work is to be carried out on the manual gearbox/automatic transmission, it is recommended that the engine is removed on its own. Where automatic transmission is fitted, the engine should where possible be removed on its own due to the additional weight of the transmission.

Note: The air conditioning system should always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist. Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet. 3 On carburettor models remove the air cleaner. 4 On fuel injection models, disconnect the

crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring) then release the four securing clips and lift off the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and air inlet hose. 5 Remove the four retaining clips and unscrew the two retaining screws, then withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove the lower section of the shroud. 6 Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as described in Chapter 3.

7 Drain the cooling system. 8 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and

where applicable, the expansion tank hose from the thermostat housing. 9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the coolant pump, and where applicable from the inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip the coolant hose from the bracket on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield, or the camshaft cover, as applicable. 10 On carburettor models, where applicable disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine management module. 11 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold. 12 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel hoses from the carburettor and where applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. Remember to take adequate fire precautions. 13 On fuel injection models, disconnect the fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator, then disconnect the fuel supply hose from the

fuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the fuel lines before disconnecting the union. Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. 14 Disconnect the throttle cable, and where applicable remove its bracket. 15 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition coil. 16 Disconnect the wiring from the following components as applicable depending on model:

Alternator Starter motor Distributor Oil pressure warning lamp switch Temperature gauge sender Engine coolant temperature sensor Automatic choke Automatic choke pull-down solenoid Carburettor anti-dieselling valve Inlet manifold heater Carburettor stepper motor Fuel injection harness Dipstick

17 Where applicable, detach the power steering pump from the cylinder block and move it to one side. 18 Unscrew and remove the top engine-togearbox bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. Note the location of the earth strap on one of the bolts. 19 Note the location of the earth strap on the rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut and disconnect the strap. 20 Apply the handbrake (if not already done), jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 21 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

22 Remove the starter motor. 23 Remove the exhaust downpipe. 24 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,

securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 25 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate (see

illustration). 26 Remove the two securing bolts and

disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from the engine and gearbox. 27 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop which will hold the automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant. 28 Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release arm, and pass the cable through the bellhousing. Where applicable, remove the clip securing the clutch cable to the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note the cable routing for use when refitting. 29 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 30 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate engine removal.

9 Engine - removal leaving

manual gearbox in vehicle

8 Method of engine removal

7 Major operations requiring

engine removal

6 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

2A•8 SOHC engines

9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and engine-to-gearbox brace (B)

Warning: Vehicles equipped with air conditioning: Components of the air

conditioning system may obstruct work being undertaken on the engine, and it is not always possible to unbolt and move them aside sufficiently, within the limits of their flexible connecting pipes. In such a case, the system should be discharged by a Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist. The refrigerant is harmless under normal conditions, but in the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them with a diluted solution of boric acid and seek medical advice immediately.

Page 49

31 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. The engine should be supported horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear. 32 Raise the engine until the engine mountings are clear of the crossmember then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is adequately supported, and take care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the gearbox. 33 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the radiator fins.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

1 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally, where applicable, disconnect the kickdown cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. 2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-totransmission bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. Note the location of the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and transmission dipstick tube bracket. 3 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive. 4 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-todriveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture. 5 Unscrew and remove the remaining engineto-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate. Where applicable pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 6 Remove the two securing bolts and disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace from the engine and transmission. 7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission to spread the load. 8 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 30 and 31. 9 Raise the engine until the engine mountings are clear of the crossmember, then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from the transmission. Ensure that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the transmission. 10 Once clear of the transmission lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the radiator fins.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive. 2 Note the location of the earth strap on the rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut and disconnect the strap. 3 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the gear lever knob and remove the centre console. Where a full length console is fitted, it is only necessary to remove the front tray. 4 Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining frame and withdraw it over the gear lever. 5 Unscrew the securing screws on early models, or release the clips on later models, and remove the gaiter retaining frame and inner gaiter. 6 Using a suitable Torx key, remove the screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox extension housing, and withdraw the gear lever. Note how the base of the gear lever locates over the selector shaft. 7 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is sufficient working room beneath the vehicle. 8 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and remove the exhaust system.

9 Remove the propeller shaft. 10 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts in each case securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 11 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 27 and 28.

12 Drain the engine oil into a container. 13 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,

securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 14 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing lamp switch. 15 Remove the retaining circlip, and withdraw the speedometer cable from the gearbox extension housing. 16 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 17 Unscrew the four bolts securing the gearbox crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the gearbox and remove the crossmember. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the mounting cup and where applicable the exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. 18 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/gearbox assembly.

19 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed. 20 Raise the engine/gearbox so that the engine mountings are clear of the crossmember, then ease the assembly forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to damage surrounding components (see

illustration). 21 With the engine/gearbox assembly

removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.

Separation

22 To separate the engine from the gearbox, proceed as follows.

23 Remove the starter motor. 24 Support the engine and gearbox

horizontally on blocks of wood. 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from the engine and gearbox. 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-togearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth strap, and remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate. 27 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation. Any suspected faults in the automatic transmission should be referred to a Ford dealer or automatic transmission specialist before removal of the unit, as the specialist fault diagnosis equipment is designed to operate with the transmission in the vehicle.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,

12 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

removal and separation

11 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - removal and

separation

10 Engine - removal leaving

automatic transmission in vehicle

SOHC engines 2A•9

11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly from the vehicle

Page 50

where applicable disconnect the kickdown cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold. 2 Note the location of the earth strap on the rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut and disconnect the strap. 3 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is sufficient working room beneath the vehicle. 4 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and remove the exhaust system.

5 Remove the propeller shaft. 6 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts, in each case securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 7 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug the open ends of the pipes and the transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting bracket, and place it to one side. 8 Remove the two clips securing the selector rod, and detach the selector rod from the manual selector lever, and the selector lever on the transmission. 9 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the lever on the transmission, and where applicable, detach the cable from the bracket on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in order to remove the cable from the bracket. Withdraw the cable from the vehicle. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch. 11 Remove the securing screw, and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission extension housing. Plug the opening in the transmission to prevent dirt ingress. 12 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe from its securing bracket on the transmission housing where applicable. 13 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. 14 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 15 Support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood to spread the load. 16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the transmission and remove the crossmember. Recover the mounting cup and where applicable the exhaust mounting bracket. 17 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/transmission assembly.

18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/transmission assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed. 19 Raise the engine/transmission so that the engine mountings are clear of the crossmember, then ease the assembly forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to damage surrounding components. 20 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.

Separation

21 To separate the engine from the transmission, proceed as follows.

22 Remove the starter motor. 23 Support the engine and transmission

horizontally on blocks of wood. 24 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converterto-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture. 25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace from the engine and transmission. 26 Unscrew and remove the engine-totransmission bolts, noting the locations of the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and where applicable pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 27 Pull the engine and transmission apart, ensuring that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 9, noting the following points: 2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the centre of the friction disc. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease the input shaft splines. 4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels.

5 Refit the exhaust downpipe. 6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release

arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal.

7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

8 Fill the cooling system. 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension

of the alternator and where applicable the power steering pump drivebelt(s).

10 Adjust the throttle cable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section

10, noting the following points: 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as specified. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 As the engine is installed, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate, noting that on the C3 type transmission, the torque converter fluid drain plug must line up with the opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before refitting and tightening the engine-totransmission bolts. 5 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened.

6 Refit the exhaust downpipe. 7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.

8 Fill the cooling system. 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension

of the alternator and where applicable the power steering pump drivebelt(s).

10 Adjust the throttle cable. 11 Where applicable, adjust the kickdown

cable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 11, noting the following points. 2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This is to ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the centre of the friction disc. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease the input shaft splines.

15 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - reconnection and

refitting

14 Engine - refitting (automatic

transmission in vehicle)

13 Engine - refitting (manual

gearbox in vehicle)

2A•10 SOHC engines

Page 51

4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels.

5 Refit the propeller shaft. 6 Refit the exhaust system. 7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release

arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal. 8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

9 Fill the cooling system. 10 Check and if necessary top-up the

gearbox oil level. 11 Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the alternator and where applicable the power steering pump drivebelt(s).

12 Adjust the throttle cable.

1 Reverse the removal procedure described

in Section 12, noting the following points. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as shown. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 As the engine and transmission are reconnected, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate, noting that on the C3 type transmission, the torque converter fluid drain plug must line up with the opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before refitting and tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts. 5 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened.

6 Reconnect and adjust the selector rod. 7 Refit the propeller shaft.

8 Refit the exhaust system. 9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.

10 Fill the cooling system. 11 Check and if necessary top-up the

transmission fluid level. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the alternator and where applicable the power steering pump drivebelt(s).

13 Adjust the throttle cable. 14 If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.

1 The engine mountings incorporate

hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if excessive engine movement is evident. 2 Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the central nuts securing the engine mounting brackets to the tops of the mountings. Recover the washers where applicable. 3 Remove the two bolts or the central nut and washer (as applicable) in each case securing the mountings to the crossmember. 4 Raise the engine using a hoist and lifting tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, or a jack with an interposed block of wood under the sump, until the mountings can be withdrawn (see illustration). 5 Fit the new mountings, then lower the engine onto them. 6 Fit the bolts or the nuts and washers (as applicable) securing the mountings to the crossmember, and tighten them. 7 Fit and tighten the central nuts, and washers if applicable, securing the engine mounting brackets to the tops of the mountings.

Dismantling

1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand but if this is not available, stand the engine on a strong bench at a comfortable working height. Failing this, it will have to be stripped down on the floor. 2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the

engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin while keeping it in an upright position. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a concrete floor, as grit presents a real source of trouble. 4 As parts are removed, clean them in a paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove, usually requiring a high pressure hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners. 5 It is advisable to have suitable containers available to hold small items according to their use, as this will help when reassembling the engine and also prevent possible losses. 6 Always obtain a complete set of new gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but retain the old gaskets with a view to using them as a pattern to make a replacement if a new one is not available. 7 Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and washers to their locations after removing the relevant components. This will help to protect the threads and will also prevent losses. 8 Retain unserviceable components in order to compare them with the new parts supplied. 9 Suitable splined sockets will be required for removal of the oil pump bolts, the timing belt tensioner bolts on early models (up to mid-

1985), and the cylinder head bolts on early models (up to early 1984) and a size T55 Torx socket will be required to remove the cylinder head bolts on later models (from early 1984). 10 Before dismantling the main engine components the following externally mounted ancillary components can be removed, with reference to the relevant Chapters of this Manual and the relevant Sections of this Chapter, where applicable:

Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where

applicable Exhaust manifold Fuel pump and operating pushrod (where

applicable) Alternator Distributor, HT leads and spark plug Coolant pump, thermostat and housing Temperature gauge sender and oil pressure

warning lamp switch Oil filter Dipstick Engine mounting brackets (see illustration) Crankcase ventilation valve and oil separator Clutch Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)

18 Engine dismantling,

examination, renovation and reassembly - general information

17 Engine mountings - renewal

16 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

reconnection and refitting

SOHC engines 2A•11

18.10b Removing the alternator mounting bracket

18.10a Removing the right-hand engine mounting bracket

17.4 Withdrawing an engine mounting

Page 52

Examination and renovation

11 With the engine completely stripped, clean all the components and examine them for wear. Each part should be checked, and where necessary renewed or renovated as described in the relevant Sections. Renew main and big end shell bearings as a matter of course, unless it is known that they have had little wear and are in perfect condition. 12 If in doubt as to whether to renew a component which is still just serviceable, consider the time and effort which will be incurred should it fail at an early date. Obviously the age and expected life of the vehicle must influence the standards applied. 13 Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and Torx type cylinder head bolts must be renewed because of the high stresses to which they are subjected. 14 Take the opportunity to renew the engine core plugs while they are easily accessible. Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear the new plugs with sealant and tap them squarely into position.

Reassembly

15 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but it must also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be clear, and locking washers and spring washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings and other working surfaces thoroughly with clean engine oil during assembly. 16 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs with damaged threads. 17 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can, clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil seals, together with a new oil filter. 18 If they have been removed, new Torx type cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will be required. 19 After reassembling the main engine components, refit the ancillary components listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters where necessary. Delicate items such as the alternator and distributor may be left until after the engine has been refitted if preferred.

20 If the crankcase ventilation oil separator was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to its tube before pressing it into the cylinder block.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. On models from mid-1985 (without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt tension should be checked using Ford special tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable splined socket will be required for the tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be required to remove the sprockets.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead b) Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan c) Remove the coolant

pump/alternator/power-steering pump drivebelt(s)

d) For improved access, remove the radiator

and disconnect the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing

2 Unscrew the three securing bolts and washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note the position of the fourth bolt above the crankshaft pulley which can be left in place. 3 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal housing (see illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned with the indentation on the cylinder head (see

illustration). 4 On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner

spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring bolt using the special splined socket (see illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot bolt. If necessary for improved access, remove the thermostat housing. Press the tensioner against the spring tension and tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in the released position.

5 On models from mid-1985 (without a tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts (see illustration) and move the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary to improve access, remove the thermostat housing. 6 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft sprocket. 7 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent the crankshaft from turning by engaging top gear (manual gearbox only) and having an assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by removing the starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a couple of bolts and use a lever between them to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn very far, or piston/valve contact may occur. 8 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see illustration). A puller will almost certainly be required on fuel-injection models. 9 Remove the guide washer from in front of the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or get oil on it if it is to be re-used. 10 If desired, the sprocket can be removed as follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21. 11 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if necessary (see illustration). 12 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt while holding the sprocket stationary with a screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.

19 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal and refitting

2A•12 SOHC engines

19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket backplate aligned with indentation on

cylinder head

19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) models from mid-1985

19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed type crankshaft pulley

19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner

spring bolt using a splined socket - models

up to mid-1985

Page 53

13 Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket,

refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if necessary (see illustration). 14 Hold the camshaft sprocket stationary using a home-made tool similar to that shown (in illustration 18.17 in Part C of this Chapter) with two bolts engaged in the sprocket holes, and unscrew the bolt and washer. Alternatively, remove the camshaft cover and hold the camshaft using a spanner on the boss behind the No 6 valve cam. 15 Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if necessary, then remove the backplate, noting which way round it is fitted (see illustrations). 16 If desired, the camshaft oil seal can be removed using self-tapping screws and a pair of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a suitable tube drift to press it into place. Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil before installation.

Refitting

17 Refit the sprockets as follows. 18 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as

noted during removal, then fit the sprocket. Insert the bolt, hold the camshaft or sprocket

as during removal, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Where applicable, refit the camshaft cover. 19 Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket with the ribs towards the engine. Fit the sprocket bolt and tighten it to the specified torque, counterholding the sprocket with a bar through one of the holes. 20 Fit the crankshaft sprocket, chamfered side inwards. 21 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, but do not engage it with the other sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt. If the old belt is being refitted, observe the previously noted running direction. 22 Refit the guide washer and the crankshaft pulley. Fit the bolt and washer and tighten just enough to seat the pulley, being careful not to turn the crankshaft. 23 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the camshaft sprocket backplate is still aligned with the indentation on the cylinder head. 24 Make sure that the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley is still aligned with the pointer on the oil seal housing. If necessary, turn the crankshaft by the shortest possible

route to align the marks. 25 If the distributor is fitted, turn the auxiliary shaft sprocket so that the rotor arm points to the No 1 HT segment position in the distributor cap. 26 Fit the timing belt over the sprockets and round the tensioner. 27 On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), slacken the pivot bolt, and allow the tensioner roller to rest against the belt. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction, to bring No 1 cylinder back to TDC. Tighten the tensioner pivot bolt and then the spring bolt to the specified torque. Do not turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise with the belt tensioner released. Proceed to paragraph 33. 28 On models from mid-1985 (without a tensioner spring), move the tensioner to tension the belt roughly and nip up the tensioner bolts. Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º

SOHC engines 2A•13

19.13 Removing the auxiliary shaft sprocket

19.15b . . . and backplate19.15a Removing the camshaft sprocket . . .

19.11 Removing the crankshaft sprocket19.9 Removing the guide washer from the

crankshaft

Page 54

anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC)

(see illustration). 29 The belt tension should now be checked

by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge readings are:

Used belt - 4 to 5 New belt - 10 to 11

If the tension gauge is not available, a rough guide is that the belt tension is correct when the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the longest run with the fingers, using moderate pressure (see illustration). In this case, the vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so that the belt tension can be checked using the special gauge at the earliest opportunity. 30 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary, turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1 cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner

bolts and move the tensioner to increase or decrease the belt tension. Tighten the tensioner bolts to the specified torque. 31 Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC). Check the belt tension again. 32 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 30 and 31 until the belt tension is correct. 33 Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque, preventing the crankshaft from turning as described in paragraph 7 (see

illustration). 34 Refit the timing cover and tighten its bolts. 35 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the

operations described in paragraph 1. 36 When the engine is next started, check the ignition timing is correct.

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 and the note at the beginning of Section 21 before proceeding.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system. 3 Disconnect the coolant hose from the

thermostat housing. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender. 5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and from the clips on the camshaft cover and remove the spark plugs. 6 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner. 7 The cylinder head can be removed either with or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables connected, but care must be taken not to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or cables. 8 Unscrew the three securing nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 9 Disconnect the coolant hose from the clip on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud, and if desired, remove the exhaust manifold. 10 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant

20 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

2A•14 SOHC engines

19.33 Holding a pressed type crankshaft pulley with two bolts and a lever while

tightening the bolt

19.29 Twisting the timing belt to assess its tension

19.28 Timing belt tension checking sequence - models from mid-1985

A No 1 cylinder at TDC B No 1 cylinder at 60° BTDC for

checking

C Return No 1 cylinder to TDC for

adjustment

Page 55

wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise, unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, ensuring that it is adequately supported. 11 If not already done, unclip any wires and hoses from the camshaft cover, noting their locations for use when refitting, and on fuel injection models unbolt the bracing strut securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder head. 12 If desired, remove the thermostat and housing, and the temperature gauge sender. 13 Proceed as described in Section 21 for cylinder head removal.

Refitting

14 With the cylinder head refitted as described in Section 21, proceed as follows. 15 Where applicable, refit the temperature gauge sender and the thermostat and housing. 16 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable. 17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold, using a new gasket. 18 Refit the coolant hose to the clip on the exhaust manifold hot air shroud. 19 Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads. 20 Reconnect the temperature gauge sender wiring. 21 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the thermostat housing.

22 Fill the cooling system. 23 If not already done, refit any hoses and

wires to the camshaft cover, as noted during removal, and on fuel injection models refit the inlet manifold bracing strut. If splined type cylinder head bolts have been used, leave these operations until the bolts have been finally tightened after running the engine. 24 Refit the air cleaner on carburettor models.

25 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 26 If splined type cylinder head bolts have

been used, start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm for 15 minutes, then stop the engine, remove the air cleaner and the camshaft cover as described previously, and finally tighten the cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage (see Specifications). Refit the camshaft cover on completion, then refit any hoses and wires, and on fuel injection models the inlet manifold bracing strut. Refit the air cleaner.

Note: Up to early 1984, splined type cylinder head bolts were used, and from early 1984, size T55 Torx bolts were used. Torx type bolts must always be renewed after slackening. The two types of bolts are interchangeable, but only in complete sets - the two types must not be mixed on the same engine. A suitable special socket will be required for removal of the bolts, and a new cylinder head gasket must be used when refitting.

Removal

1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as follows.

2 Remove the timing belt. 3 Where applicable, disconnect the breather

hose from the camshaft cover. 4 Unscrew the ten securing bolts and remove the camshaft cover and gasket. Take care not to lose the spacer plates which fit under the bolt heads, where applicable. 5 Using the relevant special socket, unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown for tightening. 6 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder head from the block. If the cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the valves. 7 Recover the gasket.

Refitting

8 Commence refitting as follows. 9 With the cylinder head supported on blocks

of wood, check and if necessary adjust the

valve clearances. This work is easier to carry out on the bench rather than in the vehicle. 10 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is approximately 20 mm (0.8 in) before TDC. This precaution will prevent any damage to open valves. 11 Make sure that the mating faces of the cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly clean, then locate the new gasket on the block making sure that all the internal holes are aligned (see illustration). Do not use

jointing compound.

12 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned with the indentation on the front of the cylinder head. 13 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket. The help of an assistant will ensure that the gasket is not dislodged. 14 Lightly oil the cylinder head bolt threads and heads, then insert the bolts into their locations in the cylinder head. Note that if the original bolts were of the Torx type, new bolts must be used when refitting. 15 Using the relevant special socket, tighten the bolts in the correct sequence (see illustration) to the stages given in the Specifications. Note that the bolt tightening

stages are different for splined and Torx type bolts. If splined type bolts are used, they must

be finally tightened to the fourth stage after the engine has been run for 15 minutes (see Specifications). 16 Check the condition of the camshaft cover gasket and renew if necessary. Fit the gasket to the camshaft cover, ensuring that the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly located, then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the securing bolts in the order shown (see Chapter 1, Section 23), ensuring that the spacer plates are in position under the bolt heads, where applicable. 17 Where applicable, reconnect the breather hose to the camshaft cover.

18 Refit the timing belt.

21 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

SOHC engines 2A•15

21.15 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

21.11 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket

Tap a stuck cylinder head free with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the head joint as this may

damage the mating faces.

Page 56

Note: A valve spring compressor will be required during this procedure. New valve stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.

Dismantling

1 With the cylinder head removed, remove the camshaft. 2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress one of the valve springs until the split collets can be removed from the groove in the valve stem. Release the compressor and remove the cap and spring, identifying them for location. If the cap is difficult to release, do not continue to tighten the compressor, but gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer. Always make sure that the compressor is firmly located on the valve head and the cap. Withdraw the valve (see illustrations). 3 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 2 for the remaining valves, keeping all components identified for location so that they can be refitted in their original positions. 4 Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops of the valve guides (see illustration). 5 Unscrew the cam follower ball-pins from the cylinder head, keeping them identified for location.

Reassembly

6 Commence reassembly by refitting the cam follower ball-pins to their original locations, where applicable. 7 Lubricate the valve stems and guides with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then insert the valves into their original guides. 8 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the collet groove of each valve, then smear the new oil seals with a little SAE 80/90 hypoid oil and slide them down the valve stems onto the guides. If necessary use a suitable metal tube to press the oil seals into the guides. Remove the adhesive tape. 9 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve spring and cap, then compress the spring using the valve spring compressor and fit the split collets to the groove in the valve stem. Release the compressor and tap the end of the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to

settle the components. If the original components are being refitted, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations.

10 Refit the camshaft.

Note: On engines fitted with hardened valve

seats for use with unleaded petrol, valve and valve seat grinding and recutting cannot be carried out without the use of specialist equipment. Consult a Ford dealer for further advice.

1 This operation will normally only be required at comparatively high mileages. However, if persistent pre-ignition (“pinking”) occurs and performance has deteriorated even though the engine adjustments are correct, de-carbonizing and valve grinding may be required. 2 With the cylinder head removed, use a scraper to remove the carbon from the combustion chambers and ports. Remove all traces of gasket from the cylinder head surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin. 3 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head surface is not distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a suitably equipped engineering works. 4 If the engine is still in the vehicle, clean the piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges, but make sure that no carbon drops between the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal off the remaining bores with paper and

masking tape. Press a little grease between the two pistons and their bores to collect any carbon dust; this can be wiped away when the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon build-up, polish the piston crown with metal polish, but remove all traces of the polish afterwards. 5 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the exhaust valve heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt. Examine the valve seats at the same time. If the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by grinding the valve heads and seats together with coarse, then fine, grinding paste. 6 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the valve seats must be recut or renewed by a suitably equipped engineering works. 7 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside down on a bench on blocks of wood. 8 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the valve seat face and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface is produced on the mating surface of both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on the mating surface of both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. 9 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and stem, and clean away all traces of grinding compound. Clean the valves and seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe with a clean rag. 10 If the guides are worn they will need reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide inserts. The valve seats will also need recutting to ensure that they are concentric with the stems. This work should be entrusted to a Ford dealer or local engineering works. 11 Check that the free length of the valve springs is as specified, and renew if necessary. Do not renew individual springs; if any springs are excessively worn, renew all the springs as a set.

23 Cylinder head - inspection

and renovation

22 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

2A•16 SOHC engines

22.2a Compressing a valve spring 22.2c Removing a valve

22.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal

22.2b Removing a valve spring and cap

Page 57

Note: A new camshaft oil seal should be used

when refitting the camshaft.

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head. 2 Hold the camshaft stationary using a

suitable spanner on the cast boss behind the No 6 valve cam, and unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer. 3 Remove the camshaft sprocket, using a suitable puller if necessary, and withdraw the sprocket backplate, noting which way round it is fitted. 4 Remove the three securing bolts and

withdraw the camshaft oil supply tube (see

illustration). 5 Note how the cam follower retaining

springs are fitted, then unhook them from the cam followers (see illustration). 6 Loosen the locknuts and back off the ballpin adjuster nuts until the cam followers can be removed (see illustration). Note their locations for use when refitting. It will be necessary to rotate the camshaft during this operation. 7 Unscrew the two bolts and remove the camshaft thrustplate from the rear bearing housing (see illustration). 8 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the rear of the cylinder head taking care not to damage the bearings (see illustration). 9 Prise the oil seal from the front bearing in the cylinder head (see illustration).

Inspection

10 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft journals and lobes, and the cam followers for wear. If wear is excessive, considerable noise would have been noticed from the top of the engine when running, and a new camshaft and followers must be fitted. 11 Check the camshaft bearings for wear, and if necessary have them renewed by a Ford dealer. 12 Check the camshaft oil supply tube for obstructions, making sure the jet holes are clear.

Refitting

13 Commence refitting by driving a new oil seal into the cylinder head front bearing, using

a suitable tube drift or socket (see illustration). Smear the seal lip with clean engine oil. 14 Lubricate the camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft from the rear of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings. 15 Locate the thrustplate in the camshaft groove, then insert and tighten the bolts. 16 Using a dial test indicator if available, or feeler blades, check that the camshaft endfloat is within the limits given in the Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate and re-check. If this does not bring the endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be renewed. 17 Lubricate the ball-pins with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then refit the cam followers to their original locations, and refit the retaining springs as noted during removal. It will be necessary to rotate the camshaft during this operation. 18 Fit the oil supply tube and tighten the bolts. 19 Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate, as noted during removal. 20 Fit the camshaft sprocket, then insert and tighten the bolt (with washer in place) to the specified torque, holding the camshaft stationary as described in paragraph 2. 21 With the cylinder head supported on blocks of wood, adjust the valve clearances. This work is easier to carry out on the bench rather than in the vehicle.

22 Refit the cylinder head.

24 Camshaft and cam followers

- removal, inspection and refitting

SOHC engines 2A•17

24.6 Removing a cam follower

24.13 Fitting a new camshaft oil seal using a socket

24.9 Prising out the camshaft oil seal24.8 Withdrawing the camshaft

24.7 Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the camshaft thrustplate

24.5 Note how the cam follower retaining springs are fitted

24.4 Withdrawing the camshaft oil supply tube

Page 58

Note: A new gasket should be used when

refitting the auxiliary shaft cover (see text).

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary shaft sprocket.

2 Remove the distributor. 3 Remove the mechanical fuel pump and

operating pushrod (where applicable). 4 Unscrew the three securing bolts and remove the auxiliary shaft cover (see

illustration). 5 Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an

impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the thrustplate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft from the cylinder block (see illustrations). 6 Cut the cover gasket along the top of the crankshaft front oil seal housing and scrape off the gasket.

Inspection

7 Examine the shaft for wear and damage, and renew it if necessary. 8 If desired, the oil seal in the cover can be renewed as follows. 9 Support the cover on blocks of wood and drive out the old oil seal. Drive the new seal into place using a suitable metal tube or socket (see illustrations) . The sealing lip must face towards the cylinder block. Smear the sealing lip with clean engine oil before installation.

Refitting

10 Commence refitting by lubricating the auxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil, then insert the shaft into the cylinder block. 11 Locate the thrustplate in the shaft groove, then insert the crosshead screws and tighten them with an impact screwdriver. 12 Using a dial test indicator (if available), or feeler blades, check that the auxiliary shaft endfloat is within the limits given in the Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate and re-check. If this does not bring the endfloat within limits, the auxiliary shaft must be renewed. 13 Cut out the relevant section of a new gasket, and locate it on the cylinder block, then refit the auxiliary shaft cover and tighten the securing bolts.

14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump. 15 Refit the distributor. 16 Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the

timing belt.

Note: The manufacturers recommend that the flywheel/driveplate securing bolts are renewed after slackening. Suitable thread-locking agent will be required to coat the bolt threads.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the clutch or the automatic transmission, as applicable.

2 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning by jamming the ring gear teeth or by bolting a strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the cylinder block. 3 Make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and the end of the crankshaft, so that the flywheel/driveplate can be refitted in its original position. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts and withdraw the flywheel/driveplate. Do not drop it, it is very heavy. Note that on models with A4LD type automatic transmission, the driveplate may be secured with one or two reinforcing plates depending on model. 5 The engine adapter plate may now be withdrawn from the dowels if required (see illustration).

Inspection

6 With the flywheel/driveplate removed, the ring gear can be examined for wear and damage. 7 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth it should be renewed. The old ring can be removed from the flywheel/driveplate by cutting a notch between two teeth with a hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this. 8 Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating the ring to 400ºF (204ºC). This can be done by polishing four equally spaced sections of the gear, laying it on a heat resistant surface (such as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with a blow lamp or torch until the polished areas turn a light yellow tinge. Do not overheat, or the hard wearing properties will be lost. The gear has a

26 Flywheel/driveplate - removal,

inspection and refitting

25 Auxiliary shaft - removal,

inspection and refitting

2A•18 SOHC engines

25.4 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft cover securing bolts and remove the cover

25.5b Withdraw the auxiliary shaft

26.5 Withdrawing the engine adaptor plate25.9b Using a socket to fit a new auxiliary

shaft cover oil seal

25.9a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover oil seal

25.5a Unscrew the auxiliary shaft

thrustplate securing screws and remove

the thrustplate

Page 59

chamfered inner edge which should fit against the shoulder on the flywheel. When hot enough, place the gear in position quickly, tapping it home if necessary, and let it cool naturally without quenching in any way.

Refitting

9 Commence refitting of the flywheel/driveplate by refitting the engine adapter plate to the dowels on the rear of the cylinder block, where applicable. 10 Ensure that the mating faces are clean, then locate the flywheel/driveplate on the rear of the crankshaft, aligning the previously made marks (see illustration). 11 Coat the threads of the securing bolts with a liquid thread-locking agent, then insert the bolts. Note that the manufacturers recommend the use of new bolts. Where applicable refit the reinforcing plate(s) on models with A4LD type automatics

12 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning as described in paragraph 2, then tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque in a diagonal sequence (see

illustration). 13 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the

clutch or the automatic transmission, as applicable.

Note: A new gasket will be required for refitting if the old seal housing is removed during this procedure.

1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft sprocket. 2 If an oil seal removal tool is available, the oil seal can be removed at this stage. It may also be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling

the outer face and using self-tapping screws and a pair of grips. 3 If the oil seal cannot be removed as described in paragraph 2, remove the sump and the auxiliary shaft sprocket, then unbolt the oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft front cover. Recover the gasket. The oil seal can then be driven out from the inside of the housing (see illustrations). 4 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a new seal using a suitable metal tube or socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean engine oil (see illustration). 5 Where applicable, refit the oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft front cover, using a new gasket, and tighten the bolts. Using a straight edge, ensure that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder block before finally tightening the bolts (see illustrations). Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and refit the sump. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt.

1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the engine adapter plate. 2 Extract the oil seal using an oil seal removal tool if available. It may also be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using self-tapping screws and a pair of grips (see illustration).

28 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

27 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

SOHC engines 2A•19

27.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil seal housing

27.3b Driving the crankshaft front oil seal from the housing

28.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location (arrowed)

27.5b Checking the alignment of the crankshaft front oil seal housing

27.5a Crankshaft front oil seal

housing/auxiliary shaft cover gasket

located on front of cylinder block

27.4 Using a socket to fit a new crankshaft front oil seal

26.12 Use a strap to prevent the flywheel

turning as its securing bolts are tightened

26.10 Flywheel located on crankshaft

Page 60

3 Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a

new seal using a suitable metal tube or socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean engine oil. 4 Refit the engine adapter plate and the flywheel/driveplate.

Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be required for refitting, and sealing compound will be required to coat the gasket faces.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of

the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

4 Drain the engine oil into a container. 5 Remove the starter motor, if necessary. 6 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,

securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. 7 Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp plate to one side, and disconnect the intermediate shaft. 8 Where applicable, detach the brake lines from the crossmember. 9 Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar and blocks of wood resting on the suspension turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head. If using a support bar, the engine may be lifted slightly by using the bar

as a lever before resting it on the wooden blocks. 10 Support the front crossmember with a trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing the crossmember to the underbody (see

illustration). 11 Lower the crossmember just enough to

give sufficient clearance to remove the sump

(see illustrations). 12 Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts

and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to free it. Do not prise between the mating faces. Note that if the engine has been removed, it is preferable to keep the engine upright until the sump has been removed to prevent sludge from entering the engine internals.

13 Recover the gaskets and sealing strips. 14 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the

cylinder block and sump.

Refitting

15 Commence refitting by applying sealing compound (available from a Ford dealer) to the corners of the front and rear rubber sealing strip locations in the cylinder block, then press the sealing strips into the grooves in the rear main bearing cap and the crankshaft front oil seal housing (see

illustrations). 16 Apply a little sealing compound to the

mating face of the cylinder block, then place the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that the end tabs locate correctly beneath the rubber sealing strips (see illustration). 17 Locate the sump on the gaskets and loosely fit the securing bolts.

29 Sump - removal and refitting

2A•20 SOHC engines

29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the front suspension turrets and support a

metal bar . . .

29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember securing bolts

29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips29.15a Apply sealing compound . . .29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and

withdraw the sump

29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for sump removal

29.11a Lower the suspension . . .

29.9b . . . which will support the engine

Page 61

18 Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence (see illustration) noting the two stages given

in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage in a clockwise sequence starting at point “A”, then tighten to the second stage in a clockwise sequence starting at point “B”. Tighten to the third stage after the engine has been running for twenty minutes. 19 If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as follows. 20 Carefully lift the crossmember with the jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 21 Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine and remove the lifting tackle. 22 Where applicable, refit the brake lines to the crossmember. 23 Ensure that the front wheels are pointing straight ahead and that the steering wheel is centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft to the steering column. Secure the clamp plate with the bolt. 24 Refit the engine mounting bolts and

tighten to the specified torque.

25 Refit the starter motor. 26 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 27 Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,

then fill the engine with the correct quantity and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil filter before filling the engine with oil.

28 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 29 Start the engine and check for leaks

around the sump, and where applicable the oil filter. When the engine is started, there may be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil pressure warning lamp while the system pressurises. 30 Run the engine for twenty minutes then stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to the third stage given in the Specifications, starting at the point “A” shown and working clockwise.

31 Check the oil level. 32 Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do

not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and causes pollution.

Removal

1 Remove the sump. 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube and strainer to the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew

the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil pump and strainer (see illustration). 4 If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft can be withdrawn, but note which way round

it is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft engages with the lower end of the distributor driveshaft. 5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil pump and cylinder block.

Refitting

6 Commence refitting by inserting the oil pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its previously noted position. 7 Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and turning it by hand. 8 Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 9 Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and tighten it.

10 Refit the sump.

Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and

pick-up tube gasket will be required for reassembly.

Dismantling

1 If oil pump wear is suspected, check the cost and availability of new parts and the cost of a new pump. Examine the pump as described in this Section and then decide whether renewal or repair is the best course of action. 2 Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer. Recover the gasket. 3 Unscrew the three securing bolts and remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).

31 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

30 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

SOHC engines 2A•21

30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube securing bolt

30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt

29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence refer to text

29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs beneath the rubber sealing strips

31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump

A Body B Outer rotor C Inner rotor D Cover E Strainer F Pick-up tube G Gasket H Pressure relief valve

Page 62

4 Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can be refitted in their original positions, then lift the rotors from the pump body. 5 Remove the pressure relief valve plug by piercing it with a punch and levering it out, then withdraw the spring and plunger. 6 Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.

Reassembly and inspection

7 Commence reassembly by lubricating the relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring. 8 Fit a new relief valve plug, flat side outwards and seat it with a drift until it is flush with the pick-up mating face. 9 Lubricate the rotors and fit them. Note the marks made when dismantling, if applicable. 10 The necessary clearances may now be checked using a machined straight edge (a good steel rule) and a set of feeler blades. The critical clearances are between the lobes of the centre rotor and convex faces of the outer rotor; between the outer and pump body; and between both rotors and the end cover plate (endfloat). The desired clearances are given in the Specifications (see illustrations). 11 Endfloat can be measured by placing a straight edge across the pump body and measuring the clearance between the two rotors and the straight edge using feeler blades (see illustration). 12 New rotors are only available as a pair. If the rotor-to-body clearance is excessive, a complete new pump should be fitted. 13 Refit the pump cover and tighten the securing bolts. 14 Fit the pick-up tube and strainer, using a new gasket. 15 Temporarily insert the driveshaft into the pump and make sure that the rotors turn freely.

16 Prime the pump before refitting.

Removal

1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head. 2 Check the big-end bearing caps for

identification marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to identify the caps and corresponding connecting rods (see

illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is

at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and tap off the bearing cap. Keep the bearing shells in the cap and connecting rod. 4 Using the handle of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod up the bore and withdraw from the top of the cylinder block. Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod. 5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and 4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then turn the crankshaft through half a turn and repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons and connecting rods.

Refitting

6 Commence refitting as follows. 7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses in the connecting rods and bigend caps. 8 Press the bearing shells into the connecting rods and caps in their correct positions and oil them liberally. Note that the lugs in corresponding shells must be adjacent to each other (see illustration). 9 Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine oil.

10 Fit a piston ring compressor to No 1 piston, then insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1 cylinder (see illustration). With No 1 crankpin at its lowest point, drive the piston carefully into the cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer, and at the same time guide the connecting rod onto the crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on the piston crown is facing the front of the engine. 11 Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end bearing cap in its previously noted position, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

12 Check that the crankshaft turns freely. 13 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs

11 to 13 inclusive on the remaining pistons.

14 Refit the cylinder head and the sump.

1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,

and scratches. Check the connecting rods for wear and damage. The connecting rods carry a letter indicating their weight class; all the rods fitted must be of the same class. 2 The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to be fitted to the existing connecting rods, the work should be carried out by a Ford dealer who will have the necessary tooling. Note that the oil splash hole in the connecting rod must be located on the right-hand side of the piston (the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards). 3 If new rings are to be fitted to the existing pistons, expand the old rings over the top of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the rings dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil control ring is in three sections.

33 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

32 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

2A•22 SOHC engines

31.10a Checking the oil pump outer rotorto-body clearance

31.11 Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat

32.10 Fitting a piston ring compressor32.8 The bearing shell lugs (arrowed) must

be adjacent to each other

32.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod identification numbers

31.10b Checking the oil pump inner-toouter rotor clearance

Page 63

4 Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,

insert them into the cylinder bore and use a feeler blade to check that the end gaps are within the specified limits (see illustration). 5 Clean out the piston ring groove using a piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the aluminium surface of the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston ring edges are sharp. 6 Fit the oil control ring sections with the spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm (1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the tapered lower compression ring with the “TOP” mark towards the top of the piston and the gap 150º from the spreader gap, then fit the upper compression ring with the gap 150º on the other side of the spreader gap. Note that the compression rings are coated with a molybdenum skin which must not be damaged. Note also that the compression rings are made of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle, remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket, auxiliary shaft sprocket and the flywheel/driveplate. 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If no work is to be done on the pistons and connecting rods, there is no need to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing and the auxiliary shaft front cover and remove the gasket.

4 Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube. 5 Check the main bearing caps for

identification marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to identify them (see

illustration). 6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that

the endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see illustration). This will indicate whether or not new thrustwashers are required. 7 Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If the thrustwashers are to be re-used identify them for location. Recover the sealing wedges from either side of the rear bearing cap. 8 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and remove the rear oil seal. Recover the remaining thrustwashers (see illustration). 9 Extract the bearing shells, keeping them identified for location (see illustration).

Refitting

10 Commence refitting as follows. 11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the

crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag. 12 Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft, non-fluffy rag. 13 If the old main bearing shells are to be renewed (not to do so is a false economy, unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper halves of the main bearing shells to their location in the crankcase. 14 Identify each main bearing cap and place in order. The number is cast on to the cap and on intermediate caps an arrow is marked which points towards the front of the engine. 15 Wipe each cap bearing shell location with a soft non-fluffy rag.

16 Fit the bearing half shell onto each main bearing cap. 17 Apply a little grease to each side of the centre main bearing so as to retain the thrustwashers. 18 Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers into their grooves either side of the main bearing. The slots must face outwards. 19 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells with clean engine oil and locate the rear oil seal (with lip lubricated) on the rear of the crankshaft. 20 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the crankcase. 21 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing journals again, and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet. 22 Make sure that the mating faces are clean, then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or equivalent) to the areas on the rear main bearing cap shown (see illustration). 23 Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two securing bolts but as before do not tighten yet. 24 Apply a little grease to either side of the centre main bearing cap so as to retain the thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the tag located in the groove and the slots facing outwards (see illustration). 25 Fit the centre main bearing cap and the two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows point towards the front of the engine. 26 Lightly tighten all main bearing cap securing bolts and then fully tighten in a progressive manner to the specified torque wrench setting. 27 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. Some stiffness is to be expected with new

34 Crankshaft and main bearings

- removal and refitting

SOHC engines 2A•23

34.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat

34.22 Coat the arrowed areas of the rear main bearing cap with sealant

34.9 Extract each main bearing shell34.8 Removing a thrustwasher from the

centre main bearing

34.5 Main bearing cap identification marks. The arrow points to the front of the engine

33.4 Checking a piston ring gap at the top of the cylinder bore

Page 64

components, but there must be no tight spots or binding. 28 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers. 29 Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully located onto its seating. Coat the rear main bearing cap sealing wedges with sealing compound, then press them into position using a blunt screwdriver with the rounded red face towards the cap (see illustration).

30 Refit the oil pump and pick-up tube. 31 Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing

and the auxiliary shaft front cover using a new gasket, and tighten the securing bolts. Smear the lip of the oil seal with clean engine oil before fitting; and using a straight edge, ensure that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder block before finally tightening the bolts.

32 Refit the pistons and connecting rods. 33 Refit the flywheel/driveplate and the

auxiliary shaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket, and timing belt.

1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using a micrometer, check each journal and crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the crankshaft will have to be reground and undersize bearings fitted. 2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out by a suitable engineering works, who will normally supply the matching undersize main and big-end shell bearings. 3 Note that undersize bearings may already have been fitted, either in production or by a previous repairer. Check the markings on the backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt take them along when buying new ones. Production undersizes are also indicated by paint marks as follows:

White line on main bearing cap - parent bore

0.40 mm oversize

Green line on crankshaft front counterweight

- main bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize

Green spot on counterweight - big-end

bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize

4 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the maximum specified amount, new thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre main bearings. These are usually supplied together with the main and big-end bearings on a reground crankshaft. 5 An accurate method of determining bearing wear is by the use of Plastigage. The crankshaft is located in the main bearings (and big-end bearings if necessary) and the Plastigage filament located across the journal which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified torque. On removal of the cap the width of the filaments is checked against a scale which shows the bearing running clearance. This clearance is then compared with that given in the Specifications (see illustration). 6 If the spigot bearing in the rear of the crankshaft requires renewal, extract it with a suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy grease and use a close fitting metal dowel driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft metal drift.

1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by examining the top of the bores; if these are worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is excessive, the engine will have had a high oil consumption rate accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust. 2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to measure the bore diameter just below the ridge and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm (0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require reboring with new oversize pistons fitted. 3 Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that the degree of wear does not justify a rebore. However, any improvement brought about by such rings may be short-lived. 4 If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist

the new rings to bed in. 5 If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and new piston rings are being fitted, either the top piston ring must be stepped (“ridge dodger” pattern) or the ridge must be removed with a ridge reamer. If the ridge is left, the piston ring may hit it and break. 6 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and cylinder block for cracks and damage and use a piece of wire to probe all oilways and waterways to ensure that they are unobstructed.

1 Make a final check to ensure that everything has been reconnected to the engine and that no rags or tools have been left in the engine bay. 2 Check that oil and coolant levels are correct. 3 Start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine. 4 Check that the oil pressure light goes out when the engine starts. 5 Run the engine at a fast tickover and check for leaks of oil, fuel or coolant. Also check power steering and transmission fluid cooler unions, where applicable. Some smoke and odd smells may be experienced as assembly lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and other components. 6 Bring the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the ignition timing and the idle speed (where applicable) and mixture. 7 If splined type cylinder head bolts have been used, stop the engine after it has been running for 15 minutes, then remove the crankshaft cover and tighten the cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage given in the Specifications, in the correct order. 8 When the engine has completely cooled, re-check the oil and coolant levels, and check, and if necessary adjust, the valve clearances. 9 If new bearings, pistons etc have been fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800 km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine oil and filter after this mileage.

37 Initial start-up after overhaul or

major repair

36 Cylinder block and bores -

examination and renovation

35 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

2A•24 SOHC engines

34.24 Fitting a thrustwasher to the centre main bearing cap

35.5 Checking the width of the filament against the scale of the packet

34.29 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear main bearing cap

Page 65

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshaft

Engine code:

Carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N8A

Fuel injection engine without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9A

Fuel injection engine with catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9C

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1998 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3 : 1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bars

Maximum continuous engine speed:

N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6050 rpm

All engines except N8A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN):

N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 kW at 5600 rpm

N9A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 kW at 5500 rpm

N9C engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 kW at 5500 rpm

Maximum engine torque:

N8A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Nm at 3000 rpm

N9A engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Nm at 2500 rpm

N9C engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Nm at 2500 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.000 to 86.010 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.010 to 86.020 mm

Oversize 0.15 class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.150 to 86.160 mm

Oversize 0.15 class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.160 to 86.170 mm

Oversize 0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.500 to 86.510 mm

Chapter 2 Part B:

DOHC engine

Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . .21

Crankcase ventilation system - inspection and maintenance . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .31

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .17

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .18

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation . .8 Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Engine dismantling, examination, renovation and reassembly - general

information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . . .7

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . . .11

Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .6

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .22

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .3

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Oil pump drive chain and sprockets - examination and renovation . .28

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and renovation .16

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Unless otherwise stated, procedures are as described for the SOHC engines in Part A of this Chapter.

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 66

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.090 to 0.300 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.048 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard (yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.980 to 54.990 mm

Standard (red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.990 to 55.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 (green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.730 to 54.750 mm

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm (0.090 to 0.093 in)

Oversize 0.38 (yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm (0.098 to 0.100 in)

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.890 to 50.910 mm

Undersize 0.25 (green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.640 to 50.660 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.970 to 85.980 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.980 to 85.990 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85.980 to 85.990 mm

Oversize 0.15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.130 to 86.150 mm

Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.470 to 86.490 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.600 mm (0.012 to 0.024 in)

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.500 to 0.800 mm (0.020 to 0.032 in)

Bottom (oil control) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.400 to 1.500 mm (0.016 to 0.059 in)

Cylinder head

Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.063 to 7.094 mm

Camshaft bearing parent bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.000 to 26.030 mm

Camshafts

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.260 mm (0.001 to 0.010 in)

Valves

Valve timing:

Carburettor engines:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º ATDC

Fuel injection engines:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º ATDC

Valve spring free length:

Inner spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.200 mm (1.899 in)

Outer spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.800 mm (1.844 in)

Inlet valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.025 to 7.043 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.225 to 7.243 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.425 to 7.443 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.625 to 7.643 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.825 to 7.843 mm

Exhaust valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.999 to 7.017 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.199 to 7.217 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.399 to 7.417 mm

Oversize 0.6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.599 to 7.617 mm

Oversize 0.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.799 to 7.817 mm

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API

SG/CD or better

Oil capacity:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.9 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C102

2B•2 DOHC engine

Page 67

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 104 66 to 77

Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 17 11 to 13

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 85º

Crankshaft pulley bolt:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 58 33 to 43

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 80º

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 63 41 to 46

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 61 to 68

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 19 12 to 14

Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10

Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 6 to 7

Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21

Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 28 17 to 21

Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 15

Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16

Cylinder head bolts:

M11 bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 to 39 27 to 29

Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 26 16 to 19

Lower timing chain guide upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 10

Lower timing chain guide lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 21

Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 10 5 to 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30

The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead Camshaft) engine was introduced in August 1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine used previously in the Sierra range. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type.

The crankshaft incorporates five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main bearing in order to control crankshaft endfloat.

The camshafts are driven by a chain from the crankshaft, and operate the angled valves via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft operates the inlet valves, and the other operates the exhaust valves. The operation of the cam followers is explained in Chapter 2, Part C, but note that no rollers are fitted and the base of each cam follower is in direct contact with the cam profile.

The distributor is driven directly from the front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump which draws oil through a strainer located inside the sump, and forces it through a fullflow filter into the engine oil galleries, from where it is distributed to the crankshaft and camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil from drillings in the connecting rods. The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with oil from passages in the cylinder head. The camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing caps.

A closed crankcase ventilation system is employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are drawn from the crankcase, through a breather pipe into the inlet manifold, where they are burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.

The following operations can be carried out without removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal of the camshafts. b) Removal and servicing of the cylinder head c) Removal of the timing chain and

sprockets. d) Removal of the oil pump. e) Removal of the sump. f) Removal of the pistons and connecting

rods. g) Removal of the big-end bearings. h) Removal of the engine mountings i) Removal of the clutch and flywheel. j) Removal of the crankshaft front and rear

oil seals.

The following operation can only be carried out after removing the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal of the crankshaft and main

bearings.

4 Major operations requiring

engine removal

3 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

2 Crankcase ventilation system -

inspection and maintenance

1 General information

DOHC engine 2B•3

Page 68

Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet. 3 On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner. 4 On fuel injection models, remove the air inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly. 5 Disconnect the breather hose from the camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt securing the hose support bracket to the left-hand side of the cylinder head (see illustration).

6 Drain the cooling system. 7 To provide additional working space,

remove the radiator. 8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the coolant pump housing on the left-hand side of the engine. 9 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing. 10 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from the inlet manifold. 11 Where applicable, release the coolant hose from the bracket under the carburettor automatic choke housing. 12 On carburettor models, disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine management module. 13 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold.

14 On fuel injection models, disconnect the vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located at the rear right-hand side of the engine compartment) and, where applicable, from the air conditioning system. 15 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses at the carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire precautions. 16 On fuel injection models, slowly loosen the fuel feed union at the fuel rail, to relieve the pressure in the fuel system before disconnecting the union. Be prepared for petrol spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, and disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. 17 Disconnect the throttle cable and move it to one side. 18 Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover. 19 Disconnect the wiring from the following components as applicable, depending on model:

Alternator. Starter motor. Oil pressure warning lamp switch. Temperature gauge sender. Cooling fan switch. Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models). Automatic choke heater (carburettor models). Engine coolant temperature sensor. Crankshaft speed/position sensor. Air charge temperature sensor. Throttle position sensor. Fuel temperature sensor. Fuel injectors.

20 On models fitted with power steering, unbolt the power steering pump from its mounting bracket and move it clear of the engine. Note that there is no need to disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure that the pump is adequately supported to avoid straining them. 21 On models fitted with air conditioning, unbolt the air conditioning compressor from its mounting bracket, and move it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the hoses; make sure that the compressor is adequately supported to avoid straining them. 22 Unscrew and remove the top engine-togearbox bolts which are accessible from the

engine compartment. Note the location of the bolts, and note the positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips attached to the bolts (see

illustration). 23 Unscrew the securing bolt, and

disconnect the earth lead from the rear lefthand side of the cylinder head. 24 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine mountings to the engine mounting brackets. 25 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 26 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

27 Remove the starter motor. 28 Remove the exhaust downpipe. 29 Ensure that the steering wheel is

positioned in the straight-ahead position, then remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and disconnect the lower steering column from the lower flexible coupling (see illustration). 30 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop, so holding the automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant. 31 Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release arm, and pass the cable through the bellhousing. 32 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 33 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate (see illustration). Recover any shims fitted between the sump and the gearbox when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.

5 Engine - removal leaving

manual gearbox in vehicle

2B•4 DOHC engine

5.5 Removing the hose support bracket bolt from the cylinder head

5.29 Removing the lower steering column clamp bolt

5.33 Engine adapter plate bolt (arrowed)

5.22 Earth strap position on top engine-togearbox (arrowed)

Warning: Vehicles equipped with air conditioning: Components of the air conditioning system may

obstruct work being undertaken on the engine and it is not always possible to unbolt and move them aside sufficiently, within the limits of their flexible connecting pipes. In such a case, the system should be discharged by a Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist. The refrigerant is harmless under normal conditions but in the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them with a diluted solution of boric acid and seek medical advice immediately.

Page 69

34 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate engine removal. 35 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. 36 To improve clearance in the engine compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt the engine mounting brackets from the cylinder block, and remove them (see

illustration). 37 Detach the brake lines from the front suspension crossmember (see illustration). 38 Support the crossmember with a jack (do

not remove the jack from under the gearbox), then loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the underbody. Remove the bolts from one side (see illustration), and carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow the sump to clear the steering rack and crossmember when pulling the engine forwards from the gearbox. 39 Gently raise the engine, then pull it forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is adequately supported, and take care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the gearbox. 40 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the components in the engine compartment

(see illustration).

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of

Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21 of Section 5. 2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-totransmission bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. Note the location of the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and transmission dipstick tube bracket, as applicable. 3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29 of Section 5. 4 Where applicable, remove the bolt securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the lefthand side of the cylinder block. 5 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-todriveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access to each bolt in turn through the aperture. 6 Support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission to spread the load. 7 Unscrew and remove the remaining engineto-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate. Recover any shims fitted between the sump and the transmission when removing the lower engineto-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38 of Section 5. 9 Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from the transmission. Ensure that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the transmission. 10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the components in the engine compartment.

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21 of Section 5. 2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of the cylinder head. 3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine mountings to the engine mounting brackets. 4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is enough working room beneath the vehicle. 5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and remove the exhaust system. 6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. 7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter, release the securing clips, and withdraw the exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for access to the propeller shaft.

8 Remove the propeller shaft. 9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts in each case securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 10 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop, so holding the automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant. 11 Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release arm, and pass the cable through the bellhousing. 12 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 13 Unscrew the four nuts securing the gearbox crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing

7 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - removal and

separation

6 Engine - removal leaving

automatic transmission in vehicle

DOHC engine 2B•5

5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember securing bolt

5.40 Lifting the engine from the vehicle

5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip from the suspension crossmember

5.36 Remove the engine mounting brackets to improve clearance

Page 70

the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove the crossmember. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the mounting cup, and where applicable the exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. 14 Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack, then remove the securing circlip, and disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the gearbox. 15 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing lamp switch. On models with fuel injection, disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox. 16 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and disconnect the gear linkage support bracket from the gearbox. 17 Using a suitable pin punch, drive out the roll-pin securing the gearchange rod to the gear linkage. 18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed. 19 To improve clearance in the engine compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt the engine mounting brackets from the cylinder block, and remove them. 20 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned in the straight-ahead position, then remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and disconnect the lower steering column from the lower flexible coupling. 21 Detach the brake lines from the front suspension crossmember. 22 Support the crossmember with a jack (do not remove the jack from under the gearbox), then loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the underbody. Remove the crossmember securing bolts, and carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow the engine sump to clear the steering rack and crossmember as the engine/gearbox assembly is removed. 23 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/gearbox assembly. 24 Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the gearbox. 25 Place a suitable rod across the vehicle underbody to support the gear linkage support bracket whilst the gearbox is removed. 26 Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using the hoist and the trolley jack, until the assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take care not to damage surrounding components. 27 If the vehicle is to be moved while the engine/gearbox assembly is removed, temporarily refit the suspension crossmember and the anti-roll bar to the underbody, and reconnect the steering column to the intermediate shaft.

Separation

28 To separate the engine from the gearbox, proceed as follows.

29 Remove the starter motor. 30 Support the engine and gearbox

horizontally on blocks of wood. 31 Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and the positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims fitted between the sump and the gearbox when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts. 32 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter plate. 33 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation. Any suspected faults in the automatic transmission should be referred to a Ford dealer or automatic transmission specialist before removal of unit, as the specialist fault diagnosis equipment is designed to operate with the transmission in the vehicle.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21 of Section 5. 2 Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of the cylinder head. 3 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine mountings to the engine mounting brackets. 4 Jack up the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is enough working room beneath the vehicle. 5 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and remove the exhaust system. 6 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. 7 On models fitted with a catalytic converter, release the securing clips and withdraw the exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for access to the propeller shaft.

8 Remove the propeller shaft. 9 Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts in each case securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 10 Support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission to spread the load. 11 Unscrew the four bolts securing the

transmission crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the transmission, and remove the crossmember. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the mounting cup, and where applicable, the exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. 12 Lower the transmission slightly on the jack. 13 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug the open ends of the pipes and the transmission, to prevent dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting bracket, and move it to one side. 14 Remove the two clips securing the selector rod, and detach the selector rod from the manual selector lever, and from the selector lever on the transmission. 15 Disconnect the wiring from the starter inhibitor switch, kickdown solenoid, lock-up clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid. 16 Remove the securing screw, and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission extension housing. Plug the opening in the transmission to prevent dirt ingress. 17 Proceed as described in paragraphs 18 to 27 of Section 7, substituting transmission for gearbox, and ignoring paragraph 25.

Separation

18 To separate the engine from the transmission, proceed as follows.

19 Remove the starter motor. 20 Support the engine and transmission

horizontally on blocks of wood. 21 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converterto-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture. 22 Where applicable, remove the bolt securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-hand side of the cylinder block. 23 Unscrew the engine-to-transmission bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and the positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims fitted between the sump and the transmission when removing the lower engine-totransmission bolts. 24 Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 25 Pull the engine and the transmission apart, ensuring that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

8 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

removal and separation

2B•6 DOHC engine

Page 71

1 Reverse the procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 40, Section 5, noting the following points. 2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease the input shaft splines. 4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If necessary, a cable-tie can be used to temporarily secure the adapter plate in position on the cylinder block using one of the engine-to-gearbox bolt holes. 5 If shims were fitted between the sump and the gearbox, refit them in their original locations when mating the engine to the gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant shims as calculated during engine reassembly. 6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal. 7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position before reconnecting the lower steering column to the intermediate shaft, and tighten the clamp bolt to the specified torque. 8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

9 Check the throttle cable adjustment. 10 Fill the cooling system. 11 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,

where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure in paragraphs 1 to 10 of Section 6, noting the following points. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If necessary, a cable-tie can be used to temporarily secure the adapter plate in position on the cylinder block, using one of the engine-to-transmission bolt holes. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as specified. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 If shims were fitted between the sump and the transmission, refit them in their original locations when mating the engine to the transmission. If the engine has been overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant shims as calculated during engine reassembly.

5 As the engine is installed, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate. When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before refitting and tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts. 6 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened. 7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position before reconnecting the lower steering column to the intermediate shaft. 8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

9 Check the throttle cable adjustment. 10 Fill the cooling system. 11 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,

where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 33 of Section 7, noting the following points. 2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease the input shaft splines. 4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If necessary, a cable-tie can be used to temporarily secure the adapter plate in position on the cylinder block, using one of the engine-to-gearbox bolt holes. 5 If shims were fitted between the sump and the gearbox, refit them in their original locations when mating the engine to the gearbox. If the engine has been overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant shims as calculated during engine reassembly. 6 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position before reconnecting the lower steering column to the intermediate shaft. 7 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal. 8 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

9 Check the throttle cable adjustment. 10 Fill the cooling system. 11 Check and if necessary top-up the

gearbox oil level. 12 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, where applicable.

1 Reverse the procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 25 of Section 8, noting the following points. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. If necessary, a cable-tie can be used to temporarily secure the adapter plate in position on the cylinder block, using one of the engine-to-transmission bolt holes. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as specified. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 If shims were fitted between the sump and the transmission, refit them in their original locations when mating the engine to the transmission. If the engine has been overhauled, where applicable fit the relevant shims as calculated during engine reassembly. 5 As the engine and transmission are mated together, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate. When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before refitting and tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts. 6 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened. 7 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position before reconnecting the lower steering column to the intermediate shaft. 8 Reconnect the selector rod and check for correct adjustment. 9 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

10 Check the throttle cable adjustment. 11 Fill the cooling system. 12 Check and if necessary top-up the

transmission fluid level. 13 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, where applicable.

Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C, but note that on certain models it may be necessary to unbolt the engine mounting brackets from the cylinder block to allow sufficient clearance to remove the mountings.

13 Engine mountings - renewal

12 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

reconnection and refitting

11 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - reconnection and

refitting

10 Engine - refitting (automatic

transmission in vehicle)

9 Engine - refitting (manual

gearbox in vehicle)

DOHC engine 2B•7

Page 72

Dismantling

1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Section 18, paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive. 2 A suitable selection of splined and Torx sockets will be required to remove many of the bolts when dismantling the engine. 3 Before dismantling the main engine components, the following externallymounted ancillary components can be removed, with reference to the relevant Chapters of this Manual and the relevant Sections of this Chapter, where applicable.

Inlet manifold (and carburettor, if applicable) Exhaust manifold Alternator. Coolant pump, and thermostat Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt tensioner Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs Oil pressure warning lamp switch Crankshaft speed/position sensor Oil filter Dipstick Engine mounting brackets (if not already done) Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses Clutch Alternator mounting bracket. Air conditioning compressor mounting

bracket (where applicable).

Engine lifting brackets.

Examination and renovation

4 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Section 18, but note that the connecting rod bolts should be renewed on reassembly, and when renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest type bolts with hexagonal heads should always be used.

Reassembly

5 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A, Section 18, noting the following: 6 If they have been removed, new cylinder head bolts (both M11 and M8, of the latest type with hexagonal heads), flywheel bolts, and connecting rod bolts must be used.

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable puller will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly, new upper and lower timing chain cover gaskets, and a new camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings, must be used on refitting.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the

following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead. b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner.

d) On fuel injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

e) Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover.

f) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,

and the rotor arm and housing.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11 inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).

3 Remove the alternator drivebelt. 4 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent

the crankshaft from turning by engaging top gear (manual gearbox only) and having an assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by removing the starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth with a lever. 5 Unscrew the bolt part-way, and use a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley. The legs of

the puller must be suitably shaped to enable them to rest on the metal surfaces of the pulley. Do not use a puller on the rubber surface of the pulley (see illustrations).

15 Timing chain and sprockets -

removal and refitting

14 Engine dismantling,

examination, renovation and reassembly - general information

2B•8 DOHC engine

15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components

1 Upper timing chain guide 2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket 3 Timing chain 4 Lower timing chain guide 5 Crankshaft sprocket (double) 6 Crankshaft 7 Oil pump chain tensioner 8 Oil pump drive chain 9 Oil pump

10 Oil pressure relief valve 11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner

plunger 12 Plug 13 Timing chain tensioner plunger 14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket 15 Timing chain tensioner arm 16 Inlet camshaft sprocket 17 Copper chain links

15.5a Remove the crankshaft pulley using a puller (viewed from under vehicle)

Page 73

6 Loosen the alternator lower mounting

through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away from the engine. 7 Unscrew the central securing bolt, and withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly. 8 Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and remove the lower timing chain cover. Recover the rubber gasket. 9 Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil pump chain tensioner (see illustration). 10 Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete with the oil pump drive chain. 11 Unscrew the two lower timing chain guide securing bolts, noting their locations, and withdraw the timing chain guide through the top of the timing case (see illustration). 12 Remove the Woodruff key from the end of the crankshaft, prising it free with a screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft, and lift the chain from the sprocket (see

illustration). 13 Withdraw the timing chain through the top

of the timing case and, where applicable, remove the cable-tie from the chain (see illustration).

Refitting

14 Commence refitting as follows. Note that coppered links are provided in the timing chain to assist with refitting, but these can be difficult to see on a chain which has already been in service. If possible, position the

coppered links as described during the following procedure. If the coppered links are not visible, the chain should still be refitted as described, but ignore the references to the coppered links. 15 Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing vertically downwards. If necessary, temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to turn the crankshaft to the required position. 16 Lower the timing chain into the timing case from above, with the single coppered link at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie to prevent the chain from dropping into the timing case, as during removal. 17 Locate the double chain sprocket loosely over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark pointing vertically down. 18 Fit the chain over the inner, larger sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the chain with the timing mark on the sprocket

(see illustration). 19 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain

guide lower securing bolt with a suitable thread-locking compound. 20 Introduce the lower timing chain guide through the top of the timing case, manipulating the chain around the guide as necessary, then fit the chain guide lower securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight. 21 Push the double chain sprocket onto the crankshaft, engaging the notch in the sprocket with the groove in the end of the crankshaft.

22 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 34 to 42 of Section 18 but when fitting the chain over the camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark on each sprocket between the two corresponding coppered links in the chain. 23 Coat the threads of the lower timing chain guide upper securing bolt with a suitable thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt and tighten it finger-tight. 24 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 43 to 46 of Section 18. 25 Tighten the two chain guide securing bolts to the specified torque. 26 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 47 to 55 of Section 18. 27 Fit the oil pump drive chain around the outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be inserted through one of the holes in the sprocket to prevent it from turning as the securing bolt is tightened. 28 Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner, and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque. 29 Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the crankshaft. 30 Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition, the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary, carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover using a screwdriver. The new seal

DOHC engine 2B•9

15.11 Withdrawing the lower timing chain

guide

15.18 Coppered link in timing chain aligned with crankshaft sprocket timing mark

(arrowed)

15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain through the top of the timing case

15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing screw (arrowed)

15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the

rubber surface (B)

15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket

from the end of the crankshaft

Page 74

should be fitted dry. Drive in the new seal using a suitable metal tube, making sure that the seal lip faces into the engine, and taking care not to damage the timing chain cover

(see illustration). 31 Fit the lower timing chain cover using a new rubber gasket (see illustration). 32 Loosely refit the timing chain cover

securing bolts. 33 Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the same time centring the lower timing chain cover. 34 With the lower timing chain cover centralised, and the pulley fully home on the crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then fit a new bolt. 35 Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque, in the two stages given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning as during removal. 36 Tighten the lower timing chain cover securing bolts. 37 Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly, ensuring that the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket engages with the corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and tighten the securing bolt. 38 Swing the alternator into position to align the upper mounting bolt hole with the corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt, and tighten the upper bolt and the lower through-bolt.

39 Refit the alternator drivebelt. 40 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the

operations described in paragraph 1.

41 If applicable, refill the cooling system.

1 Examine alI the teeth on the camshaft and

crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew the sprockets. 2 Examine the chain tensioner plastic sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is evident, the complete tensioner assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket cannot be renewed independently. Note that the tensioner plunger assembly must be renewed whenever the timing chain is removed.

3 Examine the timing chain for wear. If the chain has been in operation for a considerable time, or if when held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed appearance, renew it.

Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 5 and the note at the beginning of the following Section before proceeding. The cylinder head must not be removed when the engine is warm.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner. 3 On fuel injection models, remove the air inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

4 Drain the cooling system. 5 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from the inlet manifold (see illustration). 6 Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket from the left-hand side of the cylinder head

(see illustration). 7 Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect

the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the cylinder head (see illustration). 8 Remove the distributor cap and HT leads, and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary, mark the HT leads to aid refitting. 9 The cylinder head can be removed either with or without the manifolds and fuel rail, where applicable (it is easiest to remove the

head complete with the manifolds and fuel rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel rail can be unbolted and moved to one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables connected, but care must be taken not to place any strain on them. 10 Unscrew the three securing nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts (in which case, apply the handbrake and support the front of the vehicle securely on axle stands). Recover the gasket. 11 If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where applicable) are to be removed with the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires, hoses, pipes and cables. Otherwise, unbolt the manifold and the fuel rail, and move them to one side, ensuring that they are adequately supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. 12 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 19 of Section 18.

Refitting

13 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 20 to 55 of Section 18. 14 With the cylinder head refitted, reverse the procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 11, noting the following points. 15 Use a new gasket when reconnecting the exhaust downpipe to the manifold. 16 Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected correctly.

17 Fill the cooling system.

17 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

16 Timing chain, sprockets and

tensioner - examination and

renovation

2B•10 DOHC engine

15.30 Fitting a new lower timing chain cover oil seal

17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant hose from the inlet manifold

17.7 Disconnect the earth lead (arrowed) from the cylinder head

17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head (arrowed)

15.31 Lower timing chain cover rubber gasket in position. Ensure that lug on

gasket engages with notch in cover

(arrowed)

Page 75

Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder

head gasket, a new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly, a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a new camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings, must be used on refitting.

Removal

1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as follows. 2 Unscrew the eleven bolts and four nuts, and remove the camshaft cover. Recover the gasket. 3 Unscrew the four securing bolts and three studs, and remove the upper timing chain cover. Note the locations of the studs to aid refitting. 4 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston to the firing point. With No 1 piston at the firing point, the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets should be pointing away from each other, and should be approximately level with

the top edge of the cylinder head. Timing notches are provided in the camshaft sprockets, and corresponding paint marks are provided on the outside edges of the sprockets (see illustration). 5 Hold the inlet camshaft sprocket stationary using an improvised tool similar to that shown then unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and remove the distributor rotor shaft

(see illustration). 6 Repeat the procedure given in the previous

paragraph for the exhaust camshaft, but note that a spacer is fitted in place of the distributor rotor shaft. 7 Squeeze the upper timing chain guide securing lugs together, using pliers if necessary, and withdraw the guide from the plate at the front of the cylinder head (see

illustrations). 8 Mark the position of the timing chain in

relation to the camshaft sprockets, so that the chain can be refitted in precisely its original position (ie, make alignment marks between each sprocket and a corresponding link in the chain), then slide the camshaft sprockets from the camshafts. Withdraw the sprockets and lay the timing chain over the exhaust side of the timing case, having eliminated the slack in

the chain. Secure the chain using a cable-tie through two of the chain links, to prevent it from dropping off the crankshaft sprocket. 9 Using a suitable pair of pliers, extract the circlip from the chain tensioner arm pivot pin, taking care not to drop it into the timing case, then withdraw the pivot pin from the tensioner arm (see illustrations). If the pivot pin proves difficult to withdraw, an M6 bolt can be screwed into its end to facilitate removal. 10 Lift the chain tensioner arm from the timing case.

18 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

DOHC engine 2B•11

18.7a Upper timing chain guide securing lugs (arrowed)

18.9b Withdrawing the pivot pin from the

chain tensioner arm

18.9a Removing the chain tensioner arm pivot pin circlip

18.7b Removing the upper timing chain guide

18.5 Removing the inlet camshaft sprocket bolt and the distributor rotor shaft

18.4 Timing mark positions with No 1 cylinder at TDC

Page 76

11 Lift the chain tensioner plunger assembly from the cylinder head, and discard it (see illustration).

12 Take note of the markings on the

camshaft bearing caps, then progressively unscrew the bearing cap securing nuts. 13 Remove the bearing cap securing nuts, then lift off the camshaft oil spray bars (see

illustration), and the timing chain guide plate. 14 Lift off the bearing caps, and then lift out

the two camshafts (see illustrations). Note that the inlet camshaft is normally identified by a green paint mark. If necessary, identify the camshafts so that they can be refitted in their correct positions. 15 Withdraw the cam followers from their locations in the cylinder head, keeping them in order so that they can be refitted in their original locations (see illustration). It is advisable to store the cam followers upright in an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam followers. 16 Working at the front of the cylinder head, unscrew the three small M8 cylinder head bolts which are accessible through the timing case (see illustration). 17 Working in the reverse order to that shown for the tightening sequence, progressively loosen the remaining cylinder head bolts and withdraw them from the cylinder head. 18 Lift the cylinder head from the block. If the

cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a softfaced mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint between the cylinder head and block, as this may result in damage to the mating faces. Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the valves. 19 Recover the gasket, and the locating dowels if they are loose, noting the positions of the locating dowels.

Refitting

20 Commence refitting as follows. 21 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is

approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC. This precaution will prevent possible contact between the valves and pistons. 22 Make sure that the mating faces of the cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly clean, then refit the locating dowels (where applicable) and locate a new gasket over the dowels. Note that the gasket can only fit in one position (see illustration). Do not use jointing compound.

23 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket, making sure that the locating dowels engage. 24 Oil the threads of the new main cylinder head bolts, and insert them into their locations in the cylinder head.

25 Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see illustrations) in the four stages given in the

Specifications.

2B•12 DOHC engine

18.11 Lifting the chain tensioner plunger assembly from the cylinder head

18.14a Lifting off a camshaft bearing cap

18.25b Tightening a cylinder head bolt using an angle gauge

18.25a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

A Long M8 bolt B Short M8 bolt

18.22 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket

18.16 M8 cylinder head bolts (arrowed) located at front of cylinder head

18.15 Withdrawing a cam follower18.14b Lifting out the exhaust camshaft

18.13 Lifting off a camshaft oil spray bar

Warning: Take care when removing the plunger assembly, as there is a risk of injury if the piston flies out.

Page 77

26 Insert the three smaller M8 cylinder head bolts through the top of the timing case and tighten them to the specified torque. Note that new bolts must be used, and that they should be of the latest type, with hexagonal heads

(see illustration). 27 Lubricate the cam follower bores in the

cylinder head, and the cam followers themselves, then insert the cam followers into their original locations in the cylinder head. 28 Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head, and the bearing caps. 29 Lubricate the surfaces of the camshafts, then carefully lay the camshafts in their original positions in the cylinder head. Position the camshafts with the slots in their front ends pointing away from each other. 30 Fit and tighten the bearing caps L1, L3, L5, R1, R3, and R5 in the sequence shown (see illustration) then lay the camshaft oil spray bars and the timing chain guide plate in position over the studs (see illustrations). 31 Carefully tighten the bearing cap securing nuts by hand in the following sequence to lower the camshafts into position. Continue to tighten the nuts in the sequence given, in small amounts, until the bearing caps contact the cylinder head.

1 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L1 and

R1 by half-a-turn (180º)

2 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L5 and

R5 by half-a-turn (180º)

3 Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L3 and

R3 by half-a-turn (180º)

32 Fit bearing caps L2, L4, R2 and R4, and tap them into position on the cylinder head using light taps from a soft-faced mallet. Tighten the securing nuts evenly by hand. 33 Tighten all the bearing cap nuts to the specified torque in half-turn stages, using the following sequence:

1 L1 and R1 2 L5 and R5 3 L3 and R3 4 L2 and L4 5 R2 and R4

34 Fit a new chain tensioner plunger assembly to the housing in the cylinder head with the piston uppermost. Before fitting the new plunger assembly, take note of the position of the piston (see illustration). The assembly is normally supplied with the piston protruding slightly from the cylinder, or slightly below the top surface of the cylinder (“A”). If the new assembly is supplied with the piston partially unlatched (“B”), or fully unlatched with the latching ring visible (“C”), it must not be used (see illustration).

35 Locate the chain tensioner arm in position, then insert the pivot pin, and secure it with the circlip. Take care not to drop the circlip into the timing-case. 36 Release the cable-tie securing the timing chain (if used), and lay the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made previously on the chain and sprocket, so that the timing chain is taut on the exhaust side of the engine. 37 Fit the sprocket to the exhaust camshaft, with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark in line with the top edge of the cylinder head, pointing to the exhaust side of the engine see paragraph 4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers on one of the unmachined sections of the camshaft to turn the camshaft to the TDC

position. Take care not to damage the machined surfaces of the camshaft. 38 With the sprocket fitted, fit the spacer to the end of the camshaft, and tighten the securing bolt finger-tight (see illustration). 39 Lay the timing chain over the inlet camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made previously on the chain and the sprocket. 40 Fit the sprocket to the inlet camshaft, with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the inlet camshaft sprocket timing mark in line with the top edge of the cylinder head, pointing to the inlet side of the engine - see paragraph 4). Again, turn the camshaft if necessary to enable the sprocket to be fitted. 41 With the sprocket fitted, fit the distributor rotor shaft to the end of the camshaft, and tighten the securing bolt finger-tight. Note that it is acceptable for the timing chain to sag slightly between the two pulleys.

DOHC engine 2B•13

18.30b Camshaft oil spray bars correctly fitted

18.38 Spacer and sprocket securing bolt

fitted to end of camshaft, with camshaft in

TDC position (timing marks arrowed)

18.34 Timing chain tensioner plunger assembly

A Piston retracted - plunger assembly

useable

B Piston partially unlatched - discard plunger

assembly

C Latching ring (1) visible - discard plunger

assembly

18.30c Fitting the timing chain guide plate

18.30a Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence (see text)

18.26 Use new M8 (auxiliary) cylinder head

bolts with hexagonal heads (A), not earlier-

type Torx bolts (B)

Warning: Take care when installing the plunger assembly, as there is a risk of injury if the piston flies out.

Page 78

42 Fit a new upper timing chain guide to the plate at the front of the cylinder head. 43 Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the inlet camshaft begins to turn. 44 If the chain tensioner plunger piston protrudes from the cylinder, unlatch the piston by pressing the chain tensioner arm down by hand. 45 If the plunger piston is below the top surface of the cylinder, a tool similar to that shown (see illustration) must be fabricated to unlatch the piston. It is suggested that a 2.5 mm diameter welding rod is used to manufacture the tool. Use the tool to release the piston as follows. 46 Carefully lift the chain tensioner arm with a screwdriver, and insert the tool between the tensioner arm and the piston. Remove the screwdriver, and release the piston by pressing the tensioner arm down by hand. Carefully withdraw the tool once the piston has been released. 47 Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing bolts to the specified torque, holding the sprockets stationary as during removal. 48 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through two complete revolutions, and check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are still aligned with the top face of the cylinder head as described in paragraph 4. 49 Turn the crankshaft clockwise through another complete revolution, and check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other, directly in line with the top face of the cylinder head.

50 If the timing marks do not align as described, the timing chain has been incorrectly fitted (probably one chain link away from the correct position on one of the camshaft sprockets), and the chain should be removed from the sprockets and refitted again in the correct position as described previously. 51 Inspect the oil seal in the upper timing chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition, the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary, carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine. Take care not to damage the timing chain cover. 52 Fit the upper timing chain cover using a new rubber gasket. Great care must be taken to avoid damage to the oil seal when passing the seal over the end of the inlet camshaft. Careful manipulation will be required (possibly using a thin feeler blade) to avoid damage to the oil seal sealing lip. Note that the oil seal should be fitted dry. 53 Refit the timing chain cover securing bolts and studs in their original locations, and tighten them to the specified torque (see

illustration). 54 Remove the reinforcing sleeves from the

camshaft cover, and renew the rubber sealing rings. Note that the four short reinforcing sleeves fit at the front of the cover (see

illustration). 55 Refit the camshaft cover using a new

gasket, and tighten the securing bolts and studs to the specified torque.

Note: A valve spring compressor will be required during this procedure. New valve stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.

1 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part C, noting the following points:

a) Ignore the references to removing and

refitting the camshaft.

b) Double valve springs are used on all the

valves (see illustration).

c) Ignore the reference to inlet valve

dampers.

d) Refer to the following Section if the

cylinder head is to be inspected and renovated.

1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, noting the following points:

a) Valve and valve seat cutting and

regrinding can be carried out using conventional tools.

b) The cylinder head cannot be resurfaced,

and if the surface distortion exceeds the specified limits, the cylinder head must be renewed.

Note: Once the timing chain has been removed from the camshaft sprockets, do not turn the crankshaft until the timing chain has been correctly refitted - this is to prevent contact between the valves and pistons. A new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly, a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a new camshaft cover gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings, must be used on refitting.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead. b) On carburettor models, remove the air

cleaner.

c) On fuel injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

d) Disconnect the breather hose from the

camshaft cover.

e) Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,

and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary, mark the HT leads to aid refitting.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15 inclusive of Section 18.

21 Camshafts and cam

followers - removal, inspection

and refitting

20 Cylinder head - inspection

and renovation

19 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

2B•14 DOHC engine

18.45 Fabricated tool used to unlatch tensioner plunger piston

18.54 Fitting a camshaft cover reinforcing sleeve and sealing ring

19.1 Withdrawing the double valve springs from the cylinder head

18.53 Upper timing chain cover securing stud locations (arrowed)

Page 79

Inspection

3 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of the cam followers for wear. If wear is excessive considerable noise would have been noticed from the top of the engine when running, and new camshafts and followers must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of wear will occur unless a considerable mileage has been covered. Note that the cam followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual components. 4 Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If excessive wear is evident, the only course of action available is to renew the cylinder head and bearing caps. 5 Check the cam follower bores in the cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, the cylinder head must be renewed. 6 Check the cam follower oil grooves and the oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.

Refitting

7 Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18. 8 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the operations given in paragraph 1.

Note: New flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must be used on refitting.

1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, noting the following points. 2 If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter 6 when removing and refitting the clutch. 3 There is no need to make alignment marks between the flywheel/driveplate and the end of the crankshaft, as the securing bolt holes are offset, so the flywheel/driveplate can only be fitted to the crankshaft in one position. 4 The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking compound (see illustration). 5 Check on the availability of new parts before contemplating renewal of the ring gear.

Note: A suitable puller will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt, and a new lower timing chain cover gasket, must be used on refitting.

1 The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the lower timing chain cover. 2 If the engine is in the car, carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead. b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On fuel injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

3 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8 of Section 15. 4 With the lower timing chain cover removed, prise the old oil seal from the cover using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine. Take care not to damage the timing chain cover. 5 Refit the lower timing chain cover as described in paragraphs 31 to 39 of Section

15. 6 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the operations given in paragraph 2.

Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be used on refitting.

1 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the engine adapter plate. 2 Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool if available. It may also be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using self-tapping screws and a pair of grips. 3 Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the seal is installed.

4 Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed using a tool similar to that shown (see illustration). A suitable tool can be improvised using a metal tube of suitable diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine. 5 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the tape from the edge of the crankshaft. 6 Refit the engine adapter plate and the flywheel/driveplate.

Removal

1 Sump removal and refitting is far easier if the engine is removed from the vehicle - if so, proceed to paragraph 9. However, if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows. 2 Remove the gearbox and clutch, or automatic transmission, as applicable. 3 Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the engine adapter plate.

4 Drain the engine oil into a container. 5 Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned

in the straight-ahead position, then remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and disconnect the lower steering column from the lower flexible coupling. 6 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. 7 Detach the brake lines from the front suspension crossmember. 8 Support the crossmember with a jack, then loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the underbody. Remove the bolts, and carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow the sump to be removed. 9 If the engine has been removed, it is preferable to keep it upright until the sump has been removed, to prevent sludge in the sump from entering the engine internals. 10 Unscrew the sump securing nuts and bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine. If the sump is stuck, gently tap it sideways to free it (the sump will not move far sideways, as it locates on studs in the cylinder block). Do not prise between the mating faces of the sump and block. Recover the gasket. 11 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the cylinder block and sump.

Refitting

12 Commence refitting by locating a new gasket in the grooves in the sump.

25 Sump - removal and refitting

24 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

renewal

23 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

22 Flywheel/driveplate - removal

inspection and refitting

DOHC engine 2B•15

24.4 Tool used to fit crankshaft rear oil seal

A Rear oil seal housing B Special tool

22.4 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel when tightening securing bolts

Warning: A new sump gasket will be required on refitting, and suitable sealing compound will be required to coat the sump and

cylinder block mating faces. Shims may be required when mating the engine and gearbox/transmission - see text.

Page 80

13 Apply a suitable sealing compound to the faces of the cylinder block and sump, at the points indicated (see illustration). 14 Locate the sump on the cylinder block, then apply suitable thread-locking compound to the sump securing studs and bolts. Fit the securing nuts and bolts, but do not fully tighten them at this stage. 15 Align the sump so that its end faces and the cylinder block are flush. To do this, use a straight-edge. If the sump cannot be positioned so that the faces of the cylinder block and sump are flush, measure the difference in height using a feeler blade as shown (see illustration). 16 Tighten the sump securing nuts and bolts to the specified torque, then repeat the measurement made in paragraph 15. If the end faces of the sump and cylinder block are not flush, suitable shims (available from a Ford dealer) must be fitted between the sump and the gearbox/transmission to eliminate the clearance when mating the engine to the gearbox/transmission. Note that shims should be fitted at both sides of the sump, as required. Select suitable shims from those listed in the following table:

Clearance measured Shims required

0 to 0.25 mm No shims required

0.25 to 0.29 mm 0.15 mm (silver)

0.30 to 0.44 mm 0.30 mm (light blue)

0.45 to 0.59 mm 0.45 mm (red)

0.60 to 0.75 mm 0.60 mm (black)

17 If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows. 18 Reverse the procedure described in paragraphs 2 to 8, noting the following points.

19 Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position before reconnecting the lower steering column to the intermediate shaft. 20 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil. 21 Refit the engine adapter plate and the flywheel/driveplate. 22 Refit the gearbox or automatic transmission, ensuring that the required shims are fitted between the sump and the gearbox/transmission. 23 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque, where applicable.

Note: A suitable puller will be required to remove the crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new lower timing chain cover gasket, and a new oil pump gasket, must be used on refitting.

Removal

1 If the engine is in the car, carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead. b) To improve access, remove the radiator. It

will be difficult to remove the crankshaft pulley with the radiator in place.

c) On fuel injection models, remove the air

inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.

2 Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 10 of Section 15. 3 Unscrew the four securing bolts, and withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block (see illustrations). Recover the gasket.

Refitting

4 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the pump and the cylinder block. 5 Prime the pump by injecting clean engine oil into it and turning it by hand. 6 Place a new gasket on the oil pump flange, ensuring that the gasket is correctly located so that its holes align with the oil passages in the pump. 7 Fit the oil pump, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque.

8 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 27 to 39 of Section 15. 9 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the operations described in paragraph 1.

Dismantling

1 The oil pump can be dismantled for cleaning, but if any of the components are worn, the pump must be renewed as an assembly.

2 To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows. 3 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and remove the pump cover (see illustration). 4 Lift the inner and outer rotors from the

pump casing.

27 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

26 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

2B•16 DOHC engine

25.13 Apply sealing compound to the

sump/cylinder block mating faces at the

points indicated (2)

Dimensions are for guidance only

26.3b Withdrawing the oil pump

26.3a Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed)25.15 Measuring the clearance between

the cylinder block and sump end faces

27.3 Removing the oil pump cover

Page 81

5 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from

the pump cover, recover the washer, and withdraw the spring and plunger (see illustrations).

Inspection

6 Thoroughly clean all components in petrol or paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag. 7 Examine the rotors and the pump casing for signs of excessive wear on the machined surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete pump assembly must be renewed, as spare parts are not available individually.

Reassembly

8 Commence reassembly by lubricating the relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the spring, and screw the plug into place, ensuring that the washer is in place under the plug. 9 Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the pump casing with the punch marks facing the pump cover (see illustration). 10 Refit the pump cover and tighten the securing bolts.

11 Prime the pump before refitting.

1 Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If

the teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew the sprockets. 2 Examine the chain tensioner for wear, and renew it if necessary.

3 Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in operation for a considerable time, or if when held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed appearance, renew it.

Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.

Removal

1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head. 2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and

remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration). Recover the gasket. 3 Unscrew the four securing nuts, and withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the main bearing caps (see illustration). 4 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A, Section 32, paragraphs 2 to 5.

Refitting

5 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A, Section 32, paragraphs 6 to 13, noting the following points: 6 Take note of the orientation of the bearing shells during dismantling, and ensure that they are fitted correctly during reassembly. 7 When fitting the pistons, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown and the letter “F” on the face of the connecting rod are pointing towards the front of the engine. 8 Use new connecting rod bolts on reassembly, and before fitting, oil the threads and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten the

bolts in the three stages given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 Refit the oil baffle, and tighten the securing nuts. 10 Clean the mating faces of the cylinder block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit the pick-up pipe using a new gasket.

11 Refit the cylinder head and the sump.

Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new

rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on refitting.

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the vehicle, remove the timing chain and crankshaft sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate. 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If no work is to be done on the pistons and connecting rods, there is no need to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing, and remove it from the rear of the cylinder block. Recover the gasket. 4 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and remove the sump mounting plate from the front of the cylinder block (see illustration). 5 Check the main bearing caps for identification marks, and if necessary, use a centre-punch to identify them (see

illustration).

30 Crankshaft and main bearings

- removal and refitting

29 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

28 Oil pump drive chain and

sprockets - examination and

renovation

DOHC engine 2B•17

27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and plunger

30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate securing bolt

29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe

27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil pump rotors must face the pump cover

27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug and washer . . .

Page 82

6 Before removing the crankshaft, check that

the endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers (the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase, not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether or not new thrustwashers are required. 7 Unscrew the bolts, and tap off the main bearing caps complete with bearing shells. 8 Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block, and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place on the crankshaft. 9 Extract the bearing shells, and recover the thrustwashers, keeping them identified for location.

Refitting

10 Commence refitting as follows (see illustration). 11 Wipe the bearing shell locations in the

crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a soft non-fluffy rag. 12 If the old main bearing shells are to be renewed (not to do so is a false economy, unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper halves of the main bearing shells to their locations in the crankcase. 13 Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main bearing location, using a little grease to retain them if necessary. The oil grooves in the thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing the crankshaft webs). Note that where standard thrustwashers have been fitted in production, the centre main bearing is unmarked. If oversize (0.38 mm) thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark. 14 Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and lower main bearing shells with clean engine oil, then carefully lower the crankshaft into the crankcase. 15 Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps in their correct locations, with the arrows on the caps pointing to the front of the engine.

16 Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3 and 5. 17 Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then progressively tighten all bolts to the specified torque. 18 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. Some stiffness is to be expected with new components, but there must be no tight spots or binding. 19 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers. 20 Refit the sump mounting plate to the front of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 21 Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around the rear edge of the crankshaft, to protect the oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed. 22 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing, using a new gasket, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 23 Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed using a tool similar to that used for fitting the crankshaft rear oil seal. A suitable tool can be improvised using a metal tube of suitable diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that the seal lip faces into the engine. 24 With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the tape from the edge of the crankshaft.

25 Refit the pistons and connecting rods. 26 Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the

timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.

1 Proceed as described in Chapter 2, Part A, noting the following. 2 Production bearing undersizes are indicated as follows:

Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft -

standard-diameter main bearing journals.

Green line on crankshaft front counterweight

- main bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.

Green spot on counterweight - big-end

bearing journals 25 mm undersize.

1 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, but note that when the engine is first started, a metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is due to the timing chain tensioner plunger assembly taking time to pressurise with oil, resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The noise should stop after a short time, once oil pressure has built up.

32 Initial start-up after overhaul or

major repair

31 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

2B•18 DOHC engine

30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark (arrowed)

30.10 Crankshaft main bearings and associated components

1 Bearing cap 2 Thrustwasher 3 Stud for oil baffle

4 Identification markings 5 Bearing shell without oil

groove

6 Bearing shell with oil

groove

7 Bearing seat in cylinder

block

Page 83

1.6 litre engine

Note: Unless otherwise stated, the Specifications for the 1.6 litre CVH engine are as given for the 1.8 litre (R2A type) which follow.

General

Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L6B

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.960 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.520 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1596 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 :1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.2 to 14.3 bars

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6000 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 kW at 5500 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Nm at 3500 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.950 to 79.960 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.960 to 79.970 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.970 to 79.980 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.230 to 80.240 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.240 to 80.250 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.250 to 80.260 mm

Chapter 2 Part C:

CVH engines

Camshaft and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . . .23

Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Crankcase ventilation system - inspection and maintenance . . . . . . .3

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .33

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .34

Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .19

Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .20

Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .9

Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .11

Engine dismantling, examination, renovation and reassembly - general

information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . . .14

Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .10

Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .24

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .5

Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . .31

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Timing belt and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 84

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.980 to 58.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.730 to 57.750 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.480 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.230 to 57.250 mm

Main bearing thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.890 to 47.910 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.640 to 47.660 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.390 to 47.410 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.140 to 47.160 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.890 to 46.910 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.915 to 79.925 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.925 to 79.935 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.935 to 79.945 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.945 to 79.955 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.205 to 80.215 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.215 to 80.225 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.225 to 80.235 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top and centre rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.300 to 0.500 mm (0.012 to 0.020 in)

Bottom (oil control) ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.250 to 0.400 mm (0.010 to 0.016 in)

Camshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.150 mm (0.002 to 0.006 in)

Thrustplate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.990 to 5.010 mm (0.1966 to 0.1974 in)

Bearing journal diameter:

Bearing No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.750 mm

Bearing No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.000 mm

Bearing No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.250 mm

Bearing No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.500 mm

Bearing No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.750 mm

Valves

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4º ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10º BTDC

Valve spring free length:

Colour code blue/blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.200 mm

Colour code white/blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.400 mm

Inlet valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversize 0.20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm

Oversize 0.40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Exhaust valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversize 0.20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Oversize 0.40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API

SG/CD or better

Oil capacity:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 pints)

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm (0.002 to 0.007 in)

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm (0.002 to 0.007 in)

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm (0.001 to 0.004 in)

2C•2 CVH engines

Page 85

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 100 66 to 74

Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 36 22 to 27

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 to 115 74 to 85

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 59 40 to 44

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 to 92 61 to 68

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9

Sump bolts (in two stages) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 8 4 to 6

Rocker arm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 29 18 to 21

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 40 15 to 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6

Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 7 to 8

Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15

Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9

Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-cylinder block bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 23 13 to 17

Camshaft thrustplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 7 to 10

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

1.8 litre (R2A type) engine

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2

Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R2A

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.00 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.00 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1769 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3:1

Compression pressure at starter motor speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5850 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 kW at 5250 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Nm at 3000 rpm

Cylinder bore diameter

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.950 to 79.960 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.960 to 79.970 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.970 to 79.980 mm

Standard class 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.980 to 79.990 mm

Standard class 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.990 to 80.000 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.000 to 80.010 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.010 to 80.020 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.020 to 80.030 mm

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.20 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in)

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.067 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.980 to 54.000 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.730 to 54.750 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.480 to 53.500 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.230 to 53.250 mm

Centre main thrust bearing shell width:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.825 to 28.875 mm

Undersize 0.15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.675 to 28.725 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.065 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.890 to 43.910 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.640 to 43.660 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.390 to 43.410 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.140 to 43.160 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.890 to 42.910 mm

CVH engines 2C•3

Page 86

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mm

Standard class 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Standard class 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.950 to 79.960 mm

Standard class 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.960 to 79.970 mm

Oversize class A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.970 to 79.980 mm

Oversize class B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.980 to 79.990 mm

Oversize class C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.990 to 80.000 mm

Camshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.20 mm (0.006 to 0.008 in)

Thrustplate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mm (0.1966 to 0.1974 in)

Bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.7625 to 45.7375 mm

Valves

Valve timing:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54º ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64º BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12º ATDC

Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.20 mm (1.86 in)

Inlet valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversize 0.38 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.405 to 8.423 mm

Oversize 0.76 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.825 to 8.843 mm

Exhaust valve stem diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.996 to 8.017 mm

Lubrication system

Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to API

SG/CD or better

Oil capacity:

With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.0 pints)

Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.074 to 0.161 mm (0.003 to 0.006 in)

Inner rotor to outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm (0.002 to 0.007 in)

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.070 mm (0.0005 to 0.0028 in)

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 108 66 to 80

Big-end bearing caps:

With retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 34 19 to 25

With retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 41 26 to 30

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 130 81 to 96

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 to 115 70 to 85

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 to 91 54 to 67

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 16 8 to 12

Oil pump cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

Sump bolts:

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 15 to 22

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 15 to 22

Rocker arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 30 17 to 22

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slacken bolts by half a turn

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90º

Stage 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90º

Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8

Timing cover nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7 4 to 5

Timing belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 30 17 to 22

Oil pick-up tube/strainer-to-oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 7 to 9

Camshaft thrustplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 13 6 to 9

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 15 to 22

2C•4 CVH engines

Page 87

1.8 litre (R6A type) engine

Note: Unless otherwise stated, the Specifications for this later version of the 1.8 litre CVH engine are as given for the earlier R2A type above.

General

Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R6A

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5700 rpm

Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 kW at 5200 rpm

Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Nm at 3000 rpm

Valve timing

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24º BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116º BTDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110º ATDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18º ATDC

1.6 litre engine

The 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in September 1991, to replace the 1.6 litre SOHC engine used previously in the Sierra range. The engine is broadly similar to the 1.8 litre (R2A type) CVH engine described below. The main differences are outlined in the following paragraphs.

The centre main bearing is fitted with thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat, instead of a flanged bearing shell.

The hydraulic cam followers operate in a similar manner to those described for the 1.8 litre (R2A) engine but no rollers are fitted, and the base of each cam follower is in direct contact with the cam profile.

A distributorless ignition system is used and a blanking plate is therefore fitted to the cylinder head in place of the distributor drive. The electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.

A comprehensive emissions control system is fitted, comprising Central Fuel Injection (CFI), a sophisticated engine management system, a crankcase ventilation system, a catalytic converter, and a pulseair system (to reduce exhaust gas emissions).

Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A) engine.

1.8 litre (R2A type) engine

The CVH (Compound Valve angle, Hemispherical combustion chambers) engine is of four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft type. The engine was introduced to replace the 1.8 SOHC engine previously used in the range.

The crankshaft incorporates five main bearings. The centre main bearing has a flanged bearing shell (thrust bearing) fitted to the cylinder block to control crankshaft endfloat

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt and operates the compound angled valves via roller type hydraulic cam followers, which eliminates the need for valve clearance adjustment. The cam followers operate in the following way. When the valve is closed, pressurised engine oil passes through ports in the body of the cam follower and the plunger into the cylinder feed chamber. From this chamber, oil flows through a ball type non-return valve into the pressure

chamber. The tension of the coil spring causes the plunger to press the rocker arm against the valve and to eliminate any free play.

As the cam lifts the cam follower, the oil pressure in the pressure chamber increases and causes the non-return valve to close the port to the feed chamber. As oil cannot be compressed, it forms a rigid link between the body of the cam follower, the cylinder and the plunger which then rise as one component to open the valve.

The clearance between the body of the cam follower and the cylinder is accurately designed to meter a specific quantity of oil as it escapes from the pressure chamber. Oil will only pass along the cylinder bore when pressure is high during the moment of valve opening. Once the valve has closed, the escape of oil will produce a small amount of free play and no pressure will exist in the pressure chamber. Oil from the feed chamber can then flow through the non-return valve into the pressure chamber so that the cam follower cylinder can be raised by the pressure of the coil spring, thus eliminating any play in the arrangement until the valve is operated again.

As wear occurs between rocker arm and valve stem, the quantity of oil which flows into the pressure chamber will be slightly more than the quantity lost during the expansion cycle of the cam follower. Conversely, when the cam follower is compressed by the expansion of the valve, a slightly smaller quantity of oil will flow into the pressure chamber than was lost.

To reduce valve clatter when the engine is started, a small plastic stand pipe retains oil inside the plunger. When the engine is started, the reservoir in the plunger (and via the nonreturn valve, the pressure chamber) are immediately filled with oil. This reduces the noise often associated with hydraulic cam followers as they pressurise with oil after engine start-up.

The cam follower rollers run in needle bearings, which greatly reduces friction as the rollers follow the cam profile.

The distributor and fuel pump are driven directly from the camshaft and the oil pump is driven directly from the front of the crankshaft.

The cylinder head is of crossflow design, with the inlet manifold mounted on the righthand side and the exhaust manifold mounted on the left-hand side.

Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump

which draws oil through a strainer located inside the sump and forces it through a fullflow filter into the oil galleries where it is distributed to the crankshaft and camshaft. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends. The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with oil from the camshaft bearings via short passages in the cylinder head.

A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system is employed whereby piston blow-by gases are drawn from the crankcase, through the camshaft cover via an external vent hose, out to an oil separator built into the base of the air cleaner.

1.8 litre (R6A type) engine

The 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH engine, introduced in March 1992, is a further development of the earlier 1.8 litre (R2A type) unit described above. Apart from minor engineering modifications to provide increased fuel economy, reliability and power output, the engine is mechanically identical to the earlier version.

In common with the 1.6 litre unit, a distributorless ignition system is used, together with a comprehensive emissions control system comprising Central Fuel Injection (CFI), a sophisticated engine management system, a crankcase ventilation system, a catalytic converter, and additionally, an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.

Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A type) engine.

Refer to Section 2, Chapter 2, Part A.

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.

Refer to Section 5, Chapter 2, Part A.

4 Compression test

3 Crankcase ventilation system -

inspection and maintenance

2 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 General information

CVH engines 2C•5

Page 88

a) Removal of the cylinder head b) Removal of the camshaft c) Removal of the timing belt and sprockets d) Removal of the engine mountings e) Removal of the clutch and flywheel f) Removal of the crankshaft oil seals

a) Removal of the sump b) Removal of the oil pump c) Removal of the pistons/connecting rods d) Removal of the big-end bearings e) Removal of the crankshaft main bearings f) Removal of the crankshaft

Refer to Section 8, Chapter 2, Part A.

Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet. 3 Remove the air cleaner. 4 Disconnect the cooling fan wiring plug, then

unscrew the retaining nuts and washers and withdraw the fan shroud and cooling fan assembly.

5 Drain the cooling system. 6 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

coolant pump elbow, and detach the heater hose from the clip on the front of the timing cover. 7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the expansion tank hose from the thermostat housing (see illustration).

8 Disconnect the heater hose from the automatic choke. 9 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold (see illustration). 10 Disconnect the throttle damper solenoid vacuum pipes (noting their locations) from the throttle damper and the carburettor “T”-piece connector. 11 Disconnect the engine management module vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold. 12 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the carburettor and fuel pump, and plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire precautions.

13 Disconnect the throttle cable. 14 Disconnect the HT leads from the coil and

spark plugs, unclip the leads from the camshaft cover, and remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and housing. 15 Disconnect the wiring from the following components:

Alternator Starter motor Oil pressure warning lamp switch Temperature gauge sender Engine coolant temperature sensor Automatic choke Cooling fan switch Crankshaft speed/position sensor Engine earth strap to battery tray

16 Unscrew and remove the top engine-togearbox bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. 17 Apply the handbrake (if not already done), jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

18 Drain the engine oil into a container. 19 Remove the starter motor. 20 Remove the exhaust downpipe. 21 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine

mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 22 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth strap (see illustration), and remove the two bolts from the engine adapter plate (see illustration). 23 Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop which will hold the automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant. 24 Disconnect the clutch cable from the release arm, and pass the cable through the bellhousing. Remove the clip securing the clutch cable to the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note the cable routing for use when refitting. 25 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and support the gearbox with a trolley jack using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 26 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate engine removal. 27 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. The engine should be supported horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear. 28 Raise the engine until the engine mounting studs are clear of the crossmember, then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is adequately supported, and take care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the gearbox.

8 Engine - removal leaving

manual gearbox in vehicle

7 Method of engine removal

6 Major operations requiring

engine removal

5 Major operations possible with

the engine in the vehicle

2C•6 CVH engines

8.9 Disconnecting the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold -

1.8 litre (R2A)

8.22b Remove the two bolts (arrowed) from the engine adapter plate - 1.8 litre (R2A)

8.22a Earth strap location under engine-togearbox bolt - 1.8 litre (R2A)

8.7 Disconnect the upper radiator hose (1) and the expansion tank hose (2) from the

thermostat housing - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 89

29 Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine

from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the radiator fins (see illustration).

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

30 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5. 31 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

thermostat housing, noting their locations. 32 Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the coolant pump elbow and, where applicable, disconnect the heater hose from the T-piece on the lower radiator hose. 33 On 1.6 engines, disconnect the coolant hose from the central fuel injection (CFI) unit. 34 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold by carefully pressing the clip on the inlet manifold connector into the manifold using a screwdriver, and withdrawing the hose. 35 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold, noting their locations. 36 On 1.6 litre engines, disconnect the two hoses from the pulse-air system check valves

(see illustration). 37 Gradually loosen the fuel inlet pipe union

on the CFI unit, to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Be prepared for fuel spray, and take adequate fire precautions. Once the pressure has reduced, disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses. Plug the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage. 38 Disconnect the throttle cable, if necessary. 39 Disconnect the wiring from the following components, as applicable.

Alternator Starter motor Oil pressure warning lamp switch Temperature gauge sender Engine coolant temperature sensor Inlet air temperature sensor Ignition coil Throttle stepper motor Throttle position sensor Fuel injector Cooling fan switch Air charge temperature sensor Engine earth strap to battery tray

40 On 1.8 litre engine models with power steering, slacken the power steering pump pulley bolts, then remove the alternator/power steering pump drivebelt. Remove the pulley, unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket, and move it clear of the engine.

41 Unscrew and remove the top engine-togearbox bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. 42 Apply the handbrake (if not already done), jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 43 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

44 Remove the starter motor. 45 Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen

sensor wiring connector, then remove the exhaust downpipe. 46 Disconnect the wiring plug from the crankshaft speed/position sensor. 47 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 48 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth strap and any wiring brackets, and remove the two bolts from the engine adapter plate (see illustration). 49 Unscrew the securing bolt, and remove the crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud (where fitted). 50 On 1.6 litre engines, working inside the vehicle, place a wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop. This will hold the automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant. Disconnect the clutch cable from the release arm, and pass the cable through the bellhousing. Note the cable routing for use when refitting.

51 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 25 to 29.

Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be

required for this operation.

1 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive. Additionally, if applicable disconnect the kickdown cable from the carburettor. 2 Unscrew and remove the top engine-totransmission bolts which are accessible from the engine compartment. Note the location of the vacuum pipe bracket and transmission dipstick tube bracket. 3 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 17 to 21 inclusive. 4 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-todriveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture. 5 Unscrew and remove the remaining engineto-transmission bolts, noting the location of the earth strap, and remove the two bolts from the engine adapter plate. Where applicable pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 6 Lower the vehicle to the ground and support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission to spread the load. 7 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate engine removal. 8 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of the engine. The engine should be supported horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear. 9 Raise the engine until the engine mounting studs are clear of the crossmember, then pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from the transmission. Ensure that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the engine a little to release it from the transmission. 10 Once clear of the transmission, lift the engine from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the radiator fins.

Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 8,

paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive. 2 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the gear lever knob and remove the centre

10 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - removal and

separation

9 Engine - removal leaving

automatic transmission in vehicle

CVH engines 2C•7

8.48 Engine adapter plate bolts (A) and

crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud

(B) - 1.6 litre

8.36 Pulse-air system check valves (arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

8.29 Lifting the engine from the vehicle -

1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 90

console. Where a full-length console is fitted, it is only necessary to remove the front tray. 3 Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining frame and withdraw it over the gear lever. 4 Release the clips and remove the gaiter retaining frame and inner gaiter. 5 Using a suitable Torx key, remove the screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox extension housing, and withdraw the gear lever. Note how the base of the gear lever locates over the selector shaft. 6 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is sufficient working room beneath the vehicle. 7 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and remove the exhaust system.

8 Remove the propeller shaft. 9 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts securing each of the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 10 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 23 and 24.

11 Drain the engine oil into a container. 12 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine

mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 13 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing lamp switch. 14 Remove the retaining circlip, and withdraw the speedometer cable from the gearbox extension housing. 15 Support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox to spread the load. 16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the gearbox crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the gearbox and remove the crossmember. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the mounting cup and where applicable the exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield. 17 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/gearbox assembly. 18 Attach a hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed. 19 Raise the engine/gearbox so that the engine mounting studs are clear of the crossmember, then ease the assembly forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 20 With the engine/gearbox assembly removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.

Separation

21 To separate the engine from the gearbox,

proceed as follows.

22 Remove the starter motor. 23 Support the engine and gearbox

horizontally on blocks of wood. 24 Unscrew and remove the engine-togearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth strap, and remove the two bolts from the engine adapter plate. 25 Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

26 Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to 40 inclusive of Section 8. 27 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 25 inclusive of Section 10, noting the following points. 28 Disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed sensor mounted on the gearbox before removing the engine/gearbox assembly. 29 Note that on 1.6 litre engines, the crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud (which is secured by a single bolt) must be removed before separating the engine from the gearbox.

Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation. Any suspected faults in the automatic transmission should be referred to a Ford dealer or automatic transmission specialist before removal of the unit, as the specialist fault diagnosis equipment is designed to operate with the transmission in the vehicle.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive, but additionally, where applicable disconnect the kickdown cable from the carburettor. 2 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Ensure that there is sufficient working room beneath the vehicle. 3 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and remove the exhaust system.

4 Remove the propeller shaft. 5 Where applicable bend back the locktabs,

then unscrew the two bolts securing each of the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible. 6 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug the open ends of the pipes and the transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting bracket and place it to one side. 7 Remove the two clips securing the selector rod, and detach the selector rod from the manual selector lever, and the selector lever on the transmission, 8 If applicable, disconnect the kickdown cable from the transmission and withdraw the cable.

9 Disconnect the wiring from the starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch, the lock-up clutch and where applicable the kickdown solenoid. 10 Remove the securing screw, and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission extension housing. Plug the opening in the transmission to prevent dirt ingress. 11 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe from its securing bracket on the transmission housing.

12 Drain the engine oil into a container. 13 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine

mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 14 Support the transmission with a trolley jack using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission to spread the load. 15 Unscrew the four bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the transmission and remove the crossmember. Recover the mounting cup and the exhaust mounting bracket. 16 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/transmission assembly. 17 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/transmission assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed. 18 Raise the engine/transmission so that the engine mounting studs are clear of the crossmember, then ease the assembly forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to damage surrounding components. 19 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.

Separation

20 To separate the engine from the transmission, proceed as follows.

21 Remove the starter motor. 22 Support the engine and transmission

horizontally on blocks of wood. 23 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converterto-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture. 24 Unscrew and remove the engine-totransmission bolts, noting the locations of the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove the two bolts from the engine adapter plate, and where applicable pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate. 25 Pull the engine and transmission apart, ensuring that the torque converter is held

11 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

removal and separation

2C•8 CVH engines

Page 91

firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 8, noting the following points. 2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the centre of the friction disc. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease the input shaft splines. 4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 5 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal. 6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

7 Fill the cooling system. 8 Check and if necessary adjust the tension

of the alternator drivebelt. 9 Adjust the throttle cable.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

10 Reverse the procedure described in Section 8, noting the points made above.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 9, noting the following points. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as specified. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 As the engine is installed, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate. When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before refitting and tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts. 5 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened. 6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

7 Fill the cooling system. 8 Check and if necessary adjust the tension

of the alternator drivebelt.

9 Adjust the throttle cable. 10 If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 10, noting the following points. 2 Before attempting to reconnect the engine to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the centre of the friction disc. 3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease the input shaft splines. 4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 5 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal. 6 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

7 Fill the cooling system. 8 Check and if necessary top-up the gearbox

oil level. 9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the alternator drivebelt. 10 Adjust the throttle cable.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

11 Reverse the procedure described in Section 10, noting the points made above. Ensure that the vehicle speed sensor wiring plug is reconnected.

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 11, noting the following points. 2 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels. 3 As the torque converter is only loosely engaged in the transmission, care must be taken to prevent the torque converter from falling out forwards. When the torque converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid pump drivegear in the transmission, distance “A” in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be as specified. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will result in damage to the transmission. 4 As the engine and transmission are reconnected, guide the torque converter studs through the holes in the driveplate. When the engine is positioned flush with the engine adapter plate and the transmission housing, check that the torque converter is free to move axially a small amount before

refitting and tightening the engine-totransmission bolts. 5 Do not tighten the torque converter-todriveplate nuts until the lower engine-totransmission bolts have been fitted and tightened.

6 Reconnect and adjust the selector rod. 7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and

quantity of oil.

8 Fill the cooling system. 9 Check and if necessary top-up the

transmission fluid level. 10 Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the alternator drivebelt.

11 Adjust the throttle cable. 12 Where applicable, adjust the kickdown

cable.

1 The engine mountings incorporate hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if excessive engine movement is evident. 2 Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the central nuts securing the engine mounting brackets to the tops of the mountings. Recover the washers. 3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the central nuts securing the mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers. 5 Raise the engine using a suitable hoist and lifting tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head, or a jack and interposed block of wood under the sump, until the mountings can be withdrawn. 6 Fit the new mountings, then lower the engine onto them. Note that the locating pins on the mountings must engage with the corresponding holes in the engine mounting brackets (see illustration). 7 Fit the nuts and washers securing the mountings to the crossmember and tighten the nuts. 8 Lower the vehicle to the ground and fit the nuts and washers securing the engine mounting brackets to the mountings. Tighten the nuts.

16 Engine mountings - renewal

15 Engine/automatic

transmission assembly -

reconnection and refitting

14 Engine/manual gearbox

assembly - reconnection and

refitting

13 Engine - refitting (automatic

transmission in vehicle)

12 Engine - refitting (manual

gearbox in vehicle)

CVH engines 2C•9

16.6 Locating pin on mounting must

engage with hole (arrowed) in engine

mounting bracket

Page 92

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Dismantling

1 It is best to mount the engine on a

dismantling stand, but if this is not available, stand the engine on a strong bench at a comfortable working height. Failing this, it will have to stripped down on the floor. 2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin while keeping it in an upright position. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a concrete floor, as grit presents a real source of trouble. 4 As parts are removed, clean them in a paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove, usually requiring a high pressure hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners. 5 It is advisable to have suitable containers available to hold small items according to their use, as this will help when reassembling the engine and also prevent possible losses. 6 Always obtain a complete set of new gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but retain the old gaskets with a view to using them as a pattern to make a replacement if a new one is not available. 7 Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and washers to their locations after removing the relevant components. This will help to protect the threads and will also prevent possible losses. 8 Retain unserviceable components in order to compare them with the new components supplied. 9 A suitable Torx socket will be required to remove the oil pump cover securing screws. 10 Before dismantling the main engine components, the following externally mounted ancillary components can be removed:

Inlet manifold and carburettor Exhaust manifold Fuel pump and operating pushrod Alternator Spark plugs Oil pressure warning lamp switch (see

illustration)

Oil filter Dipstick Engine mounting brackets Clutch Alternator mounting bracket Crankshaft speed/position sensor Engine lifting brackets

Examination and renovation

11 Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, Part A.

Reassembly

12 To ensure maximum life with minimum

trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but it must

also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be clear, and locking washers and spring washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings and other working surfaces thoroughly with engine oil during assembly. 13 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or studs with damaged threads. 14 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can, clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil seals, together with a new oil filter. 15 If they have been removed, new cylinder head bolts, big-end bolts/nuts and new flywheel bolts will be required. 16 After reassembling the main engine components, refer to paragraph 10 and refit the ancillary components listed. Delicate items such as the alternator may be left until after the engine has been refitted.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

Dismantling

17 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive. 18 Before dismantling the main engine

components, the following ancillary components can be removed:

Inlet manifold and CFI unit. Exhaust manifold . Alternator. Spark plugs and HT leads. Ignition coil and mounting bracket. Oil pressure warning lamp switch. Oil filter. Dipstick and tube. Engine mounting brackets. Clutch. Alternator mounting bracket.

Crankshaft speed/position sensor. Engine lifting brackets. Crankcase ventilation hose.

Examination and renovation

19 Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, Part A.

Reassembly

20 Refer to paragraphs 12 to 16 but note that

new rocker arm nuts will be required, if they have been removed.

Note: The belt tension should be checked using Ford special tool No 21-113 after refitting. A suitable puller may be required to remove the sprockets. If the camshaft sprocket is removed, a new retaining bolt must be used on refitting, and suitable sealant (Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue) will be required to coat the bolt threads.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the

following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead b) Remove the alternator drivebelt c) Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and

housing

d) Disconnect the wiring plug from the

crankshaft speed/position sensor

e) Unclip the coolant hoses from the timing

cover, and position them across the top of the camshaft cover out of the way

f) If desired for improved access, remove

the fan shroud and cooling fan assembly, although this is not essential

2 Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent the crankshaft from turning by engaging top gear (manual gearbox only) and having an assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by removing the starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth with a lever. 3 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw the pulley (see illustration). If the pulley will not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and use a puller, but take care not to damage the sensor toothed disc.

18 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal and refitting

17 Engine dismantling,

examination, renovation and reassembly - general information

2C•10 CVH engines

17.10 Removing the oil pressure warning lamp switch - 1.8 litre (R2A)

18.5 Withdrawing the timing cover -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.3 Withdrawing the crankshaft pulley -

1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 93

4 Unscrew the two timing cover securing

nuts, and recover the earth tag and the coolant hose clip. 5 Unscrew the two securing bolts and withdraw the timing cover (see illustration). 6 Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, and using a socket on the bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top dead centre) lug on the crankshaft sprocket is uppermost, and in line with the notch in the oil pump flange, and the pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the dot on the cylinder head front face

(see illustrations). 7 Loosen the two timing belt tensioner bolts,

press the tensioner to the left against the spring tension, and tighten the two bolts to retain the tensioner in the released position. 8 Mark the running direction of the belt if it is to be re-used, then slip it off the sprockets,

and withdraw the belt (see illustration). 9 If desired, the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets can be removed as follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 19. The coolant pump sprocket is integral with the pump and cannot be removed separately. 10 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, preventing the crankshaft from turning as before if necessary, then remove the crankshaft sprocket. Refit the bolt part way and use a puller if necessary. Recover the Woodruff key from the end of the crankshaft and remove the thrustwasher (see

illustrations). 11 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while

holding the sprocket stationary with a 41 mm ring spanner. Alternatively, make up a tool similar to that shown for tightening the bolt and hold the sprocket using two bolts

engaged in the sprockets holes. Recover the distributor rotor shaft which is held in place by the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration). 12 Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting the bolt part way and using a puller if necessary (see illustration). 13 If desired, the timing belt backplate can be removed by lifting it from the studs (see illustration) and the timing belt tensioner and coolant pump can be removed. 14 If required, the camshaft oil seal can be removed using self-tapping screws and a pair of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a suitable tube drift to press it into place. Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil before installation.

Refitting

15 Refit the sprockets as follows.

CVH engines 2C•11

18.8 Withdrawing the timing belt -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.13 Removing the timing belt backplate -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.12 Using a puller to remove the camshaft sprocket - 1.8 litre (R2A)

18.11 Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and distributor rotor shaft -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.10c . . . and the thrustwasher -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.10b . . . the Woodruff key . . .18.10a Remove the crankshaft

sprocket . . .

18.6b TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket aligned with dot on cylinder head -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.6a TDC lug on crankshaft sprocket

aligned with notch in oil pump flange -

1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 94

16 Where applicable, refit the timing belt

tensioner and coolant pump, locate the timing belt backplate over the studs, then fit the camshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor shaft. 17 The camshaft sprocket bolt must be coated with sealant before installation. The manufacturers recommend Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue. With the sealant applied, insert the bolt, hold the camshaft sprocket stationary as during removal, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 18 Refit the thrustwasher with the convex side facing forwards, and refit the Woodruff key, then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the “FRONT” mark facing forwards. 19 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, but do not engage it with the other sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt, and if the old belt is being refitted, observe the previously noted running direction.

20 Make sure that the TDC pointer on the camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the dot on the cylinder head front face. 21 Check that the TDC lug on the crankshaft sprocket is still in line with the notch in the oil pump flange. If necessary, refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a socket on the bolt, turn the crankshaft by the shortest possible route to align the lug and notch. 22 Starting at the crankshaft and working in an anti-clockwise direction, fit the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, round the tensioner roller, and over the coolant pump sprocket. 23 Slacken the tensioner bolts, allow the tensioner roller to rest against the belt, then tighten the tensioner bolts. 24 Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a socket on the bolt, turn the engine through two revolutions in a clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC). 25 The belt tension should now be checked by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge readings are:

Used belt - 4 to 6 New belt - 10 to 11

If the tension gauge is not available, a rough guide is that the belt tension is correct when the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the longest run with the fingers using moderate pressure (see illustration). In this case, the vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so that the belt tension can be checked using the special gauge at the earliest opportunity. 26 If adjustment of belt tension is necessary, turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1 cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner bolts and move the tensioner to increase or decrease the belt tension. Tighten the tensioner bolts to the specified torque. 27 Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC). Check the belt tension again (see

illustration).

28 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs

26 and 27 until the belt tension is correct. 29 Refit the timing cover and secure with the two bolts and nuts. Ensure that the earth tag and the coolant hose clip are fitted under the relevant nuts (see illustration). 30 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, then refit the crankshaft pulley and the bolt and washer. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque, preventing the crankshaft from turning as described in paragraph 2. 31 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the operations described in paragraph 1.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

32 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the following operations.

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead. b) Remove the alternator drivebelt. c) Disconnect the HT leads from the spark

plugs, noting their locations; detach the HT lead bracket from the camshaft cover, and position the leads out of the way.

d) Move the coolant hoses from the front of

the timing cover, and position them across the top of the camshaft cover out of the way.

e) If desired for improved access, remove

the fan shroud and the cooling fan assembly, although this is not essential.

33 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 30 inclusive, noting the following differences for the 1.6 litre engine (see illustrations).

a) There is no sensor toothed disc on the

crankshaft pulley.

b) A two-piece timing cover is fitted,

consisting of upper and lower sections, each secured by two bolts. No earth tag or coolant hose clip is fitted to the bolts.

c) The TDC datum on the oil pump takes the

form of a lug instead of a notch.

d) There is no distributor rotor shaft fitted to

the camshaft sprocket bolt.

e) There is no timing belt backplate.

34 On completion, if the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the operations given in paragraph 32.

2C•12 CVH engines

18.17 Tightening the camshaft sprocket

bolt. Hold the sprocket stationary using an

improvised tool with two bolts engaged in

the sprocket holes - 1.8 litre (R2A)

18.27 No 1 cylinder at 60° BTDC for checking of timing belt tension -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.29 Earth tag (1) and coolant hose clip (2) locations on timing cover -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.25 Twisting the timing belt to assess its tension - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 95

Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of

Section 20 before proceeding.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system. 3 Disconnect the heater coolant hose from

the coolant pump elbow, and the coolant bypass hose from the left-hand side of the cylinder head, then unclip the hoses from the timing cover and move them to one side out of the way (see illustrations).

4 Remove the air cleaner.

5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark

plugs and coil, identifying them for position if necessary, unclip the leads from the camshaft cover, then remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and housing. Remove the spark plugs. 6 Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead from the battery tray. 7 The cylinder head can be removed either with or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to one side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables connected, but care must be taken not to strain any of the wires, hoses, pipes or cables. 8 Unscrew the three securing nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifoid flange. Recover the gasket.

9 If desired, remove the exhaust manifold. 10 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with

the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant

wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, ensuring that it is adequately supported (see

illustration). 11 If desired, remove the fuel pump and

operating pushrod. 12 Proceed as described in Section 20 to complete cylinder head removal.

Refitting

13 With the cylinder head refitted as

described in Section 20, proceed as follows. 14 Where applicable, refit the fuel pump and operating pushrod. 15 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable. 16 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold, using a new gasket. 17 Reconnect the earth lead to the battery tray. 18 Refit the spark plugs, then refit the distributor cap, rotor arm and housing, and reconnect the HT leads.

19 Refit the air cleaner. 20 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the

coolant pump elbow and the cylinder head, and locate them in the clip on the timing cover.

21 Fill the cooling system. 22 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

Removal

23 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 24 Drain the cooling system. 25 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

thermostat housing, and the bypass hose from the left-hand side of the cylinder head, then move them to one side out of the way.

26 Remove the air cleaner. 27 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark

plugs, identifying them for position if necessary. Unclip them from the camshaft cover, and move them to one side out of the way.

28 Remove the spark plugs. 29 Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead

from the battery tray. 30 The cylinder head can be removed either with or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to one side (after unbolting the dipstick tube),

19 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine in vehicle)

CVH engines 2C•13

19.10 Withdraw the inlet manifold -

1.8 litre (R2A)

19.3b Coolant bypass hose connection at cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)

19.3a Disconnecting the heater coolant hose from the coolant pump elbow -

1.8 litre (R2A)

18.33d Oil pump TDC lug (A) and crankshaft sprocket lug (B) -

1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

18.33c Removing the lower timing cover -

1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

18.33b Removing the upper timing cover -

1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

18.33a Upper timing cover securing bolts (arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

Page 96

leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables connected. However, care must be taken not to strain any of the wires, hoses or cables. 31 Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring connector (see illustration) then unscrew the three securing bolts and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange. Recover the gasket.

32 If desired, remove the exhaust manifold. 33 If the inlet manifold is to be removed with

the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise unbolt the manifold and move it to one side, ensuring that it is adequately supported. 34 Note the information given in paragraphs 18 to 21 inclusive of Section 20.

Refitting

35 With the cylinder head refitted, proceed

as follows. 36 Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all wires, hoses, pipes and cables as applicable. 37 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold using a new gasket, and reconnect the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring connector. 38 Reconnect the earth lead to the battery tray. 39 Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads.

40 Refit the air cleaner. 41 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the

thermostat housing and cylinder head.

42 Fill the cooling system. 43 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

Note: The cylinder head bolts must always be

renewed after slackening, and a new cylinder head gasket and camshaft cover gasket must be used on refitting. If the engine has recently run, the cylinder head must be allowed to cool to room temperature before it is removed.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Removal

1 With the manifolds removed, proceed as

follows. 2 Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprocket, and timing belt backplate. 3 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft cover. 4 Unscrew the nine securing bolts and remove the camshaft cover and gasket (see

illustration). 5 Unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a

turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown for tightening. 6 With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder head from the block (see illustration). If the cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint between the cylinder head and block as this may result in damage to the mating faces. Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the valves.

7 Recover the gasket, and the locating dowels if they are loose (see illustration).

Refitting

8 Commence refitting as follows. 9 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is

approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC. This precaution will prevent any damage to open valves. 10 Make sure that the mating faces of the cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly clean, then refit the locating dowels to the block where applicable, and locate a new gasket over the dowels with the red sealing bead and the “1.8” mark uppermost (see

illustrations). Do not use jointing compound. 11 Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer

on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the dot on the cylinder head front face. 12 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket, making sure that the locating dowels engage. 13 Insert the new cylinder head bolts into their locations in the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts in the order shown to the five stages given in the Specifications (see

illustrations). 14 Fit a new camshaft cover gasket to the

cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket locates correctly over the edges of the cylinder head (see illustration). 15 Refit the camshaft cover and tighten the bolts evenly, ensuring that the studded bolts which retain the HT lead clips are refitted to their correct positions (see illustration).

20 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting (engine removed)

2C•14 CVH engines

19.31 Disconnecting the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring connector -

1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

20.6 Withdraw the cylinder head bolts and lift the cylinder head from the block -

1.8 litre (R2A)

20.10b . . . then locate a new gasket with the red sealing bead and “1.8” mark

uppermost - 1.8 litre (R2A)

20.10a Fit the locating dowels (arrowed) to the block . . .

20.7 Recover the cylinder head gasket -

1.8 litre (R2A)

20.4 Remove the camshaft cover and gasket - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 97

16 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose

to the camshaft cover. 17 Refit the timing belt backplate, camshaft sprocket and timing belt.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

18 With the manifolds removed, proceed as follows.

19 Remove the timing belt. 20 Proceed as shown in paragraphs 3 to 16

inclusive, noting the following differences for the 1.6 litre engine only:

a) Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the

reverse order to that shown for tightening.

b) The cylinder head gasket is identified by a

single tooth on its edge, and the gasket must be fitted with the tooth nearest the

oil filter end of the engine, as shown (see illustration).

c) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the

order shown (see illustration), to the four stages given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.

d) Ignore the reference to the studded

camshaft cover bolts.

21 On completion, refit the timing belt.

Note: A valve spring compressor will be

required during this procedure. New valve stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Dismantling

1 With the cylinder head removed, remove

the camshaft. 2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress one of the valve springs until the split collets can be removed from the grooves in the valve stem. Release the compressor and remove the cap and spring, identifying them for location. If the cap is difficult to release, do not continue to tighten the compressor, but gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer. Always make sure that the compressor is firmly located on the valve head and the cap

(see illustrations). 3 Prise the oil seal from the valve stem, and

remove the spring seat, then withdraw the valve (see illustrations).

21 Cylinder head - dismantling

and reassembly

CVH engines 2C•15

20.14 Ensure that the camshaft cover gasket locates over the edges of the

cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)

21.2c . . . then remove the cap and spring -

1.8 litre (R2A)

21.2b . . . to free the split collets . . .

20.20b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 1.6 litre

20.20a Cylinder head gasket correctly located - 1.6 litre

A Locating dowels B Identification teeth

21.2a Compress the valve spring . . .

20.13b Tighten the cylinder head bolts

using an angle gauge - 1.8 litre (R2A)

20.13a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 1.8 litre (R2A)

20.15 Fit the camshaft cover, ensuring that the studded bolts (arrowed) are correctly

located - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 98

4 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs

2 and 3 for the remaining valves, keeping all components identified for location so that they can be refitted in their original positions. Note that the inlet valve springs are fitted with metal dampers. The damper is an integral part of the spring and cannot be removed (see

illustration).

Reassembly

5 Commence reassembly by lubricating the

valve stems and guides with SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, then insert the valves into their original guides.

6 Refit the spring seats over the valve stems. 7 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape over the

collet grooves of each valve, then smear the new oil seals with a little hypoid oil and slide them down the valve stems onto the spring seats. Use a suitable metal tube to seat the seals, then remove the adhesive tape from the valves (see illustration). 8 Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve spring and cap, then compress the spring using the valve spring compressor and fit the split collets to the groove in the valve stem. Release the compressor and tap the end of the valve stem with a soft-faced mallet to settle the components. If the original components are being refitted, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. 9 Refit the camshaft.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive, but note that no dampers are fitted to the inlet valve springs on the 1.6 litre engine.

Refer to Section 23, Chapter 2, Part A but pay particular attention to the note at the beginning of the Section as all CVH engines are fitted with hardened valve seats.

Note: A new camshaft oil seal and new rocker arm securing nuts should be used when refitting.

1.8 litre (R2A type)

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head. 2 Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the

rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and cam follower guide retainers, then lift out the cam follower guides and the cam followers. Keep all components in the correct order so that each component can be refitted in the original position if it is to be re-used. It is advisable to store the cam followers upright in an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam followers. 3 Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If necessary use self-tapping screws and a suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal.

4 Unscrew the two securing bolts and withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the front of the cylinder head. 5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the front of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid removal.

Inspection

6 Examine the surfaces of the camshaft

journals and lobes, and the cam follower rollers for wear. If wear is excessive, considerable noise would have been noticed from the top of the engine when running, and a new camshaft and followers must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of wear will occur unless a considerable mileage has been covered. Note that the cam followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual components. 7 Check the camshaft bearings in the cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, it may be possible to have the head machined by a suitably equipped engineering workshop to enable a camshaft with oversize bearing journals to be fitted. The only other course of action available is renewal of the cylinder head. 8 Check the cam follower bores in the cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is evident, the cylinder head must be renewed. 9 Check the cam follower oil ports and the oil holes in the cylinder head for obstructions

(see illustrations).

Refitting

10 Commence refitting by lubricating the

camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with

23 Camshaft and cam followers

- removal, inspection and refitting

22 Cylinder head - inspection and

renovation

2C•16 CVH engines

21.3a Remove the spring seat . . . 21.4 Inlet valve components. Spring damper arrowed - 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.9b Cam follower supply hole (arrowed) in cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.9a Hydraulic cam follower oil port (arrowed) - 1.8 litre (R2A)

21.7 Seat each new valve seal using a metal tube - 1.8 litre (R2A)

21.3b . . . and valve - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Page 99

hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft from the front of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings (see illustration).

11 Locate the thrustplate in the camshaft groove, then refit the bolts and tighten them. Note that the stamped number on the thrustplate should face forwards (see

illustrations). 12 Using a dial test indicator if available, or

feeler blades, check that the camshaft endfloat is within the limits given in the Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate and re-check. If this does not bring the endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be renewed. 13 Remove the thrustplate bolts, coat the threads with sealing compound, then refit and tighten the bolts. 14 Smear the lip of the new camshaft oil seal with clean engine oil, then fit the seal using the camshaft sprocket bolt and a suitable tool

similar to that shown (see illustration).Draw the seal into position so that it rests on the shoulder.

15 Lubricate the cam followers with hypoid oil, refit them to their original locations, with the colour marking pointing to the oil feed hole in the cylinder head. The oil feed port in the cam follower should be opposite the oil feed hole in the cylinder head (see

illustrations). 16 Lubricate the tops of the cam followers,

then refit the four cam follower guides to their

CVH engines 2C•17

23.11b . . . and tighten the securing bolts -

1.8 litre (R2A)

23.14 Using a special tool to fit the camshaft oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.11a Refit the camshaft thrustplate . . .23.10 Refitting the camshaft -

1.8 litre (R2A)

23.15a Hydraulic cam follower and rocker assembly orientation - 1.8 litre (R2A)

1 Cam follower colour markings 2 Oil port in cam follower 3 Oil supply hole in cylinder head 4 Securing bolt

5 Rocker arm guide 6 Rocker arm 7 Cam follower guide retainer -

stepped end to inlet side

8 Cam follower guide - stepped end to

exhaust side 9 Cam follower 10 Front of engine

The tool can be improvised using a metal tube of suitable diameter and a large washer or metal disc.

Page 100

original locations with their “stepped” ends pointing towards the exhaust side of the cylinder head (see illustration). 17 Refit the four cam follower guide retainers to their original locations with their “stepped” ends pointing towards the inlet side of the cylinder head (see illustration). 18 Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket, and turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer on the sprocket is aligned with the dot on the cylinder head front face (ie the pointer is at the 12 o’clock position). 19 Refit rocker arms Nos 1, 2, 4 and 5 together with their rocker arm guides and securing bolts, to their original locations (see illustration). Lubricate the contact faces of the rocker arms and guides and the valve stems with hypoid oil, and ensure that the guides seat correctly in their locations in the cylinder head (see illustration). Tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 20 Turn the camshaft through 180º so that the camshaft sprocket keyway is aligned with the dot on the cylinder head front face (ie the TDC pointer on the sprocket is at the 6 o’clock position) (see illustration). 21 Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 19 for rocker arms Nos 3, 6, 7 and 8. 22 Remove the camshaft sprocket and refit the cylinder head.

1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)

Removal

23 Remove the cylinder head.

24 Unscrew the securing nuts and remove

the rocker arm guides, rocker arms, and spacer plates, then lift out the cam followers. Keep all components in the correct order so that they can be refitted in their original locations on reassembly. It is advisable to store the cam followers upright in an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover the cam followers. 25 Prise out the camshaft oil seal, taking care not to damage the surface of the camshaft. If necessary, use self-tapping screws and a suitable pair of grips to withdraw the seal. 26 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and withdraw the camshaft thrustplate from the front of the cylinder head. 27 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the front of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings. If necessary, loosely refit the camshaft sprocket and bolt to aid removal.

Inspection

28 Proceed as described in paragraphs 6 to

9 inclusive.

Refitting

29 Commence refitting by lubricating the

camshaft, bearings and thrustplate with hypoid oil, then carefully insert the camshaft from the front of the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the bearings. 30 Locate the thrustplate in position in the cylinder head, then refit the bolts and tighten them. Note that the oil groove in the

thrustplate must face the front of the engine.

31 Using a dial test indicator (if available) or

feeler blades, check that the camshaft

endfloat is within the limits given in the

Specifications. If not, renew the thrustplate

and re-check. If this does not bring the

endfloat within limits, the camshaft must be

renewed.

32 Smear the lip of the new camshaft oil seal

with clean engine oil, then refit the seal using

the camshaft sprocket bolt and a suitable

tool. The tool can be improvised using a metal

tube of suitable diameter and a large washer

or metal disc. Draw the seal into position so

that it rests on the shoulder.

33 Lubricate the cam followers with hypoid

oil, then refit them to their original locations in

the cylinder head.

34 Before each rocker arm is fitted and its

(new) nut tightened, it is essential to ensure

that the relevant cam follower is positioned at

its lowest point (in contact with the cam base

circle, not the tip of the cam lobe). Turn the

camshaft (by means of the camshaft sprocket

bolt if necessary) as necessary to achieve this.

35 Lubricate the tops of the cam followers,

then refit the spacer plates, rocker arms and

rocker arm guides to their original locations.

36 Secure the rocker arms using new nuts

tightened to the specified torque, bearing in

mind the point made in paragraph 34.

37 Refit the cylinder head.

2C•18 CVH engines

23.17 . . . and retainers - 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.20 Camshaft sprocket keyway aligned with dot on cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.19b Lubricate the valve stem contact

faces and refit the rocker arms and guides

- 1.8 litre (R2A)

23.19a Rocker arm numbering sequence -

1.8 litre (R2A)

23.16 . . . guides . . .23.15b Refit the cam followers . . .

Ford Sierra 1996 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

Contents

Routine maintenance and servicing