Fiberfab Aztec 7 Assembly Manual
Table of Contents
Construction Material, Tools and Power Tools
Selecting a VW To Use For Your Aztec 7
Removing The VW Body
Disassembling The VW
Chassis Preparation
Softening Front Suspension
Decambering Rear Suspension
Installing Tail Section Supports
Installing Heater Vent Tubing
Mounting The Voltage Regulator
Installing Gauge Sending Units
Installing The Center Console
Installation of Spedometer Cable
Main Body Preparation
Cutting the Windshield Opening
Cutting the Rear Window Opening
Cutting the Door Openings
Defroster Installation
Windshield Wiper Motor Installation
Drill Holes for Wiring Harness
Preparation of Dash and Overhead Console
Installation of Gauges and Switches
Installation of Dashboard
Routing the Main Body Wiring
Installing the Main Body on the Floor Pan
The Gull-Wing Doors
Preparing the Gull-Wing Doors
Cutting the Side Window Openings
Preparing the Door for Latches
Locating the Door Hinges
Mounting the Door Hinges
Installing the Door Assist Cylinders
Installing the Door Latches
Fitting the Striker Plates
Installing the Door Stops
Preparing the Door for the Installation of Side Glass
Installing the Side Windows
Installing the Headlight Dimmer Switch
Detailing the Interior
Installing Headliner
Installing the Rear Firewall Upholstery
Installing Upholstery on Front Firewall
Installing Side Panels
Installing Door Flange Trim
Upholstering Center Console
Installing Shifter Boot
Installing Floor Mats
Installing Door Panels
Installing Heater Vents
Installing Overhead Console
Installing Steering Shaft
Installing the Steering Wheel
Installing Side Glass Weather-strip
Installing Rear Glass
Installing Windshield
Installing the Seats
Tail Section
Installing Rear Bumper
Installing License Plate Lights
Weather Stripping
The Nose Section
Assembling the Headlight Boxes
Installing the Headlight Units
Installing the Front Bumper
Fastening the Nose to the Main Body
Installing the Nose Supports
Wiring the Front of the Car
Installing the Brake Fluid Reservoir
Installing the Hood
Installing Locking Hood Hold-down Pins
Gas Tank Installation
Painting
Mirrors and Trim
Bolt Descriptions
Bolt Kit Listing
Wiring Harness
Templates
Rear Glass Opening
Driver’s Side Template for Veneer
Passenger’s Side Template for Veneer
Overhead Console Switch Holes
CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL, TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS
Essential Hand Tools 1. Complete Socket Sets-both Metric and Standard
2. Screwdrivers-both Standard and Phillips
3. Straight – Edge
4. Tape Measure
Helpful Hand Tools 1. Open End and/or Box Wrenches
2. Pop Rivet Gun, Various Size Rivets
3. Wire Terminal Crimping Tool
4. Hacksaw
5. Set of Wood Working Hole Saws or Adjustable Hole Cutter
Essential Power Tools 1. Electric Drill
2. Jigsaw
Helpful Power Tools 1. Rotary Sander/Grinder
2. Hydraulic Floor Jack and Jack Stands
Essential Construction
Materials 1. Assorted Sheet Metal Screws
2. 40, 120, 240 and 400 grit Sandpaper
3. Electrical Tape
4. Silicone Seal
Helpful Construction
Materials 1. Epoxy Adhesive Kit
2. Epoxy Putty/Filler
3. VW Service Manual
SELECTING A VW TO USE FOR YOUR AZTEC 7
First, the variants (Fastbacks and Square backs) and Super Beetle series are not suitable.
When buying a VW to use with your Aztec 7 kit, remember the necessities are the floor pan, complete front end,
transaxle and engine. If these parts are complete and not damaged, the car is useable. Don’t be fooled by a bent-up
rusted body.
The following inspection checklist can be used as a guide to aid you in choosing a chassis/engine system:
1. Floor pan – check for bent flanges, rust, cracks and dents
2. Front End – check for collision damage, bent tie rods, worn ball joints, bent shock towers, worn steering gear and
bearings.
3. Transaxle – check for proper clutch operation and smooth shifting; listen for noise from gears and universal joints
while rolling the car forward; inspect trans case for leaks and metal chips in oil.
4. Brake System – check for scored brake drums, leaky wheel cylinders, spongy pedal.
5. Engine – inspect engine oil for leaks, low compression and smoking exhaust.
Description of Model Year, Engine and Chassis
1961-1965
Engine 1200CC-40 hp
All Synchromesh transmission
Swing arm rear suspension, link pin front suspension
1966
Hp increased to 50 hp
Ball joint font suspension
1967
Engine 1500cc-53 hp
12 volt electrical system
Dual brake system
Two speed windshield wipers
1968
Auto stick shift
4 bolt wheel pattern
1969-1970
Engine 1600cc – 57 hp
Swing axel replaced by CV joints
Steering column and ignition lock
1971
63 hp
1972-1973
VW diagnostic system installed
1975-1977
Electronic Fuel Injection
Alternator with integral regulator
REMOVING THE VW BODY
Tools Necessary Metric wrenches and sockets – 16mm to 19mm
1-1/8 inch socket
Standard and Philips Screwdrivers
Hammer
Cold Chisel
Penetrating Oil
VW Service Manual
Parts to Save From VW Body
Chassis, engine, transaxle and front end
Complete Steering Column and hardware
Voltage Regulator
Gas Tank and Gas Tank Mounting Clips
Battery
Brake Fluid Reservoir and Hoses
Headlight Dimmer Relay
All Body Mounting Bolts and Body Washers
DISSASSEMBLING THE VW
1. Remove the front and rear seats
2. Remove the battery (save brackets)
3. Remove voltage regulator
4. Remove the four bolts from the rear body mounting flange (save)
5. Remove the bolt from each side under the rear seat back cushion
6. Remove the seat belts
7. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the left front wheel
8. Pull the speedo cable through the hub by pulling it from the inside of the spindle.
9. Remove the cardboard covers over the dash and gas tank in the luggage compartment.
10. Locate and remove the headlight dimmer relay and save
11. Remove the speedometer cable by disconnecting the cable from the speedometer and pulling the cable out of the
body.
12. Drain the fuel tank
13. Remove the four gas tank brackets and bolts. (save the brackets)
14. Disconnect filler hose from the tank. (’68 and later)
15. Remove the fuel tank and set aside for use later
16. Remove the brake reservoir complete with metal hoses. Leave the flexible rubber connecting hoses on the master
cylinder. Two 5/16 inch bolts will work well.
17. Disconnect the wires from the brake master cylinder switches
18. Identify the wires into the passenger compartment through the hole in the dash under the steering column
19. Pull these wires into the passenger compartment through the hole in the dash under the steering column.
20. Remove the horn ring cover with a small screwdriver
21. Disconnect the ground wire at the horn ring.
22. Remove the steering wheel nut and spring washer.
23. Remove the steering wheel with horn ring.
24. Remove the turn signal canceling cam from the bottom of the steering wheel and save it.
25. Remove and save the retaining circlip from the steering column
26. Remove the bolts that secure the steering column bracket to the dash.
27. Pull the steering column housing off the steering column shaft. Also remove and save the rubber grommet at the
base of the housing.
(NOTE: If vehicle was equipped with a locking steering column, the ignition key must be switched "on"
before the housing can be removed.)
28. To remove the steering column shaft: unbolt the steering shaft from the steering box at the flexible coupling. Save
the bolts and nuts for use later. Push the steering shaft toward the passenger compartment. When the flexible
shaft is free from the steering box, pull the shaft up and forward, out of the body.
29. Remove the bolts that secure the body to the front torsion tubes beneath the area occupied by the gas tank. Save
these bolts.
30. Raise the rear of the car and remove the rear wheels. Rear body mounting bolts will be found just forward of the
shock absorber mounts. Remove these bolts. Make certain the car is securely supported as considerable force
may be necessary to remove these bolts.
31. Remove the flexible tubes between the heat exchangers and the body.
32. On newer models, remove the rear equalizer spring (stabilizer bar).
33. Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground.
34. Disconnect the wiring from the main harness to the engine. These wires will be:
a. From the oil pressure sender located just below the distributor
b. Two wires on the generator
c. The wires on the starter motor
d. The wire from the main harness to the coil.
35. Working under the car with the car on the ground, remove all body bolts. Save the "U" shaped washers.
Removing the Body
Before trying to lift off 'the body, make certain the following steps have been performed.
1. All body bolts removed.
2. Steering column disconnected and removed.
3. Engine and brake wiring removed.
4. Heater hoses removed.
5. Rear stabilizer bar removed (newer models).
The body can now be lifted off with a block and tackle or several strong friends. Lift the body to the side of the
chassis, not over the front or rear.
CHASSIS PREPARATION
Refer to Figure 4
1. Now is the time to repair or replace worn engine, chassis, transmission, and suspension components because
they will be easily accessible.
2. Remove battery brackets from the floor pan with a cold chisel.
3. Chisel off the two back seat heater cable tubes.
4. Using a hacksaw, saw off the jacking sockets flush with the edge of the floor pan flanges.
5. Use a cold steel chisel again to remove the seat rails on both sides of the pan.
6. Repair any floor pan damage using fiberglass cloth and resin. On small holes use silicone sealant. These
materials are available at most auto supply stores.
7. Clean the entire chassis. This can be done at home with engine degreaser or by professional steam cleaning.
Steam cleaning is advisable.
8. After chassis has completely dried, remove all rust, using a wire brush.
9. Paint the entire chassis with a good rust preventive paint.
Figure 4a VW Chassis
Figure 4b Removing Seat Rail
SOFTENING FRONT SUSPENSION
Because the Aztec 7 fiberglass body is lighter than the Volkswagen body, the front suspension must be modified or
"softened," to compensate for the weight reduction.
Tools Required Wrenches
Screwdrivers
Scribe
Welding torch -Optional
Refer to Figure 5a and Figure 5b
1. Place the front of the chassis on jack stands.
2. Disconnect the brake lines on each side of the l-beam, by removing the holding clips and unscrewing the
connecting lines.
3. Disconnect the front suspension from the chassis, by removing the four bolts on the l-beams.
4. Scribe two lines around the lower torsion bar tube housing, 2" to the right and 2" to the left of the center bolt on
the tube. .
5. Using a pipe cutter, cut around the torsion bar tube housing, along the lines scribed in Step 5. Cut only through
the tube housing do not cut the torsion bars enclosed within the housing.
6. Re-install the front end on the chassis. Do not re-connect the brake lines and steering damper at this time if you
plan to do your own welding. When the procedure is complete, the 4" cut portion of the housing (with the center
bolt) should move freely from the remainder of the housing when weight is applied.
7. Place approximately 175 lbs. of weight on the front of the I-beam. (A person standing on the l-beam will
accomplish this.) With the proper weight applied, the lower torsion bar should be 8" from the ground.
8. Tack weld the center portion of the tube housing back to the sides of the tube housing in the same, weighted
position obtained in Step 7. (NOTE: All welding can be done when the car is totally assembled. The car can
be driven to a gas station for welding.)
9. Remove the I-beam from the chassis and permanently weld the center of the torsion bar tube housing to the side
housing.
10. Re-install the I-beam onto the chassis. Reconnect the brake lines using the original clips, etc.
NOTE: Step #8 to be done with tires to be used on chassis.
NOTE: Stock VW shocks are recommended. The height can be reduced by cutting the rubber stops at the top of shocks
in half.
Figure 5A Front Suspension
DECAMBERING REAR SUSPENSION
Tools Required Jack Stands
Wrenches
Refer to Figure 5a and Figure 5b
1. Place the rear wheels of the VW chassis on jack stands or blocks, and remove the rear wheels.
2. Unbolt the four bolts that hold the torsion bar dust cover cap, and the three bolts that hold the spring plate to the
rear axle.
3. Remove the dust cover and rubber bushing covering the torsion bar and spring plate splined edges as shown in
Figure 5.
4. Scribe a line across the surface of the spring plate and torsion bar splines to establish a reference point.
5. Once the reference point is established, pull the spring plate off of the torsion bar, being careful not to pull the
inner torsion bar splines (in the center of the torsion tube) rot. At the same time disengage the spring plate from
the rear axles. The rear axles will spring rearward out of the spring plate.
(NOTE: Spring plates are under tension when they disengage from the rear axle, keep hands
clear.)
6. Once the spring plate is disengaged, rotate the spring plate one notch counter clockwise on the driver side, and
clockwise on the passenger side. The reference point marked above will indicate one notch moved.
7. Re-engage the spring plate at this point on the torsion bar and rear axle in the spring plate. Bolt the spring plate in
place at the rear axle with the three bolts from the original assembly.
8. Replace the rubber bushing and bolt the dust cover cap into place, using the bolts from the original assembly.
9. The decambering is now complete. To check the suspension, have someone weighing between 160 and 185
pounds stand on the chassis, near the rear torsion bars. Ron the chassis back and forth. The rear wheels should
be almost vertical.
(NOTE: On models using Constant Velocity Joints (CVJ) decambering of the rear suspension may not be
necessary (1969 models and up).
Figure 5B Decambering the Rear Suspension
INSTALLING TAIL SECTION SUPPORTS
Tools Required 2 - 9/16 inch wrenches or socket set
2 - ¾ inch wrenches or socket set
Parts Requires Ff #Z763 1 set rear body supports and #Z762 hinges
Ff #X137 chassis paint
Ff #1 bolt pack
Refer to Figure 6
Install rear tail section supports to chassis. The illustration below shows both hangers in place on the mounts
formerly used to secure the VW body. When the tail section is installed, shims (washers) may have to be placed under the
front, rear or both hanger mounting feet, to precisely align the tail section with the main body. Make certain the movable
end plates are extended to the very end and the pivots are positioned downward. A diagram of the installation is shown in
Figure 6.
Figure 6 Tail Section Supports
INSTALLING HEATER VENT TUBING
Tools Required Knife
Caulking Gun
Parts Required Ff #X180 heater tubing
Ff #MX193 Silicone
Refer to Figure 7
Cut two lengths of heater tubing 24 inches long each. Apply a bead of silicone all the way around the tube
approximately 1 inch from the end as illustrated in Figure 7. Install heater tube in the heat exchanger on the engine. Seal
this joint with silicone.
Figure 7 Installing Heater Vent Tubing
MOUNTING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Tools Required Electric Drill and Drill Bits
Screwdriver
Wire Cutter/Stripper
Parts Required 14 Gauge Wire
12 Gauge Wire
Wire Terminals
#10 X ½ inch Metal Screws
Refer to Figure 9
Locate the regulator on the fan shroud directly above the generator/alternator flange. Mark and drill two holes and
fasten the regulator to the shroud using #10 X1.2 inch sheet metal screws. A ground wire of 14-gauge wire should be cut
and installed under one of the regulator mounting screws and the other end fastened to the generator where the original
ground wire was connected. Use terminals on the ends of the wire. Connect the D+ terminals on the regulator and the
generator with a length of 12 gauge wire. Make up and connect a piece of 14 gauge wire to the D.F. terminals on the
regulator and generator.
Figure 9 Voltage Regulator
INSTALLING GAUGE SENDING UNITS
Tools Required Crescent Wrench
Parts Required Ff #X166 Temperature Sender
Ff #X169 Pressure Sender
Refer to Figures 8, 10 and 11
Remove the VW oil pressure-sending unit. This is located at the base of the distributor. Install the Fiberfab oil
pressure-sending unit in the same location. The location of the sending unit is shown in Figure 8.
Remove the oil dipstick and replace it will the oil temperature sending unit following the instructions included with
the sending unit kit. See Figure 10.
Replace the stock air cleaner with a low profile air cleaner.
Figure 8 Oil Pressure Sending Units
Figure 10 Oil Temperature Sending Unit
Figure 11 Air Cleaner
INSTALLING THE CENTER CONSOLE
Tools Required Drill
3/8 inch Drill Bit
Jigsaw
3/8 inch Socket Set
Parts Required Ff #Z411 Floor Console
Ff #X120 Shifter
Refer to Figures 12, 13 and 14
1. Cut the openings in the console for the shifter and hand brake lever. Use the plate in the shifter kit for the shifter
opening pattern. Dimensions for the hand brake are shown in Figure 12.
2. Remove the old shifter
3. Slide the center console over the hand brake lever as shown in Figure 13.
4. Install the new shifter as shown in Figure 14.
Figure 12 Lower Console
Figure 13 Installing Lower Console
Figure 14 Installing Shifter
INSTALLING OF SPEEDOMETER CABLE
Tools Required Needle Nose Pliers
Parts Required Ff #X187 Speedometer Cable
Refer to Figure 15
Push the speedometer cable through the left front spindle and hub dust cover. Insert cotter pin through cable end.
Figure 15A Placement of Speedometer Cable Through Wheel
Figure 15B Detail: Cable End and Cotter Pin – Outside of Wheel
MAIN BODY PREPARATION
1. Cutting the Windshield Opening
Tools Required 40 Grit Sandpaper
Tape
Drill
3/8 inch Drill Bit
Jigsaw
Refer to Figure 16
Cut the opening in the front of the main body for the windshield. Start the cut by drilling a 3/8-inch hole and insert
saw blade in this hole. A line is scribed ¾ inch from the lip in the body as illustrated in Figure 16. When cutting be careful
to leave the scribe mark on the finished part. Then using the 40 grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand all the edges
smooth to the scribed mark.
Figure 16 Windshield Opening
2. Cutting the Rear Opening
Tools Required 40 Grit Sandpaper
Tape
Drill
3/8 inch Drill Bit
Jigsaw
Scribe
Refer to Figure 17
A template for the rear window opening is furnished with the assembly manual. Remove the pattern from the book
and tape it in place in the rear opening. Scribe the fiberglass around the edge of the pattern as shown in Figure 17. Cut
out along the scribed lines and sand smooth.
Figure 17 Rear Window Opening
3. Cutting the Door Openings
Tools Required 40 Grit Sandpaper
Tape
Drill
3/8 inch Drill Bit
Jigsaw
Refer to Figure 18.
Cut the opening on each side of the main body section. Sand to the scribed lines.
Figure 18 Door Opening
4. Defroster Installation
Tools Required Drill
5/16 inch Drill Bit
Tape
2 – 7/8 inch wrenches or sockets
Parts Required Ff #X14111 Defroster
Bolt Kit #2
Refer to Figures 19 and 20
Measure and drill holes as shown in Figure 19 using a 5/16-inch drill bit. Install defroster motor on the inside of
the car. The air outlet ducts should face up. Bolt motor in place as illustrated in Figure 20 using the #2 Bolt Kit
Figure 19 Defroster Installation – Location of Bolt Holes
Figure 20 Detail: Defroster Installation
Figure 21 Motor Location Top View
5. Windshield Wiper Motor Installation
Tools Required Drill
5/16 inch Drill Bit
5/8 inch Drill Bit
2 – 7/16 inch Wrenches
Parts Required Ff #Z767 Power Motor
Ff #Z782 Pivot Shaft
Ff #Z783 Drive Arm
Bolt Kit #3
Refer to Figures 21 and 22
Measure and mark the windshield cowl for holes to be drilled to mount the wiper motor as shown in Figure 21.
Use the dimple at the center of the windshield opening to locate the vertical line. Use a 5/8-inch drill bit to drill the center
hole for the wiper motor pivot shaft. Drill the two outer holes for the mounting bracket using a 5/16-inch drill bit. Install the
wiper motor as illustrated using bolt kit #3 as shown in Figure 22. DO NOT INSTALL wiper arm Ff #Z768 and blade Ff
#Z769 at this time.
Figure 21 Motor Location Top View
Figure 22 Wiper Motor
6. Drill Holes for Wiring Harness
Tools Required Drill
1-1/2 inch hole saw
Refer to Figures 23 and 24
Use a 1-1/2 inch holes saw to drill holes in the firewall and inner liner as shown in Figures 23 and 24.
Figure 23 Wiring Harness – Drill Hole Location
Figure 24 Wiring Harness – Drill Hole Location
Figure 25 Dashboard and Overhead Console
7. Preparation of Dash and Overhead Console
Tools Required 40 and 120 Grit Sandpaper
Jigsaw
Flat Black Paint
Medium Steel Wool
Scissors
1-1/2 inch brush
Drill
¼ inch Drill Bit
3 inch Hole Saw
2-1/6 inch Hole Saw
1-1/2 inch Hole Saw
¾ inch Hole Saw
½ inch Hole Saw
Rattail File
Parts Required Ff #Z410 Overhead Console
Ff #MX194 Contact Cement
Ff #Z409 Dash
Ff #Z788 Veneer
Ff #X141H Defroster Kit
Ff #Z759J Dash Pad
Refer to Figure 25 Through 30
Trim all flanges using 40 grit sandpaper. Then sand smooth using 120 grit sandpaper. Using medium steel wool,
rub the entire dash and console until the glass is removed. Then spray with flat black paint supplied with the kit.
Remove the template from the assembly manual and lay them out on the veneer as shown in Figure 26. Trace
the edges of the templates on the veneer and cut the veneer as just marked using scissors. Check to see that veneer fits
the dash and overhead console.
Figure 26 Layout of Templates on Veneer
Use a brush to apply contact cement to the back of the veneer and faces of the cash and console. Follow
instructions on the can of cement and apply the veneer to the cash and console.
Mark the veneer for holes to be drilled for gauges and switches mounted in the dash and console using the
templates. Now drill all the holes using the proper size drill bits and hole saws as indicated on the templates.
Drill holes in top of the dash for defroster outlets at location shown in Figure 28. Slide the dash pad over the
dashboard. Push the pad back as tightly as possible and mark the location of the defroster outlets from under the dash.
Remove the dash pad and cut the holes for the outlets where marked. Replace the pad on the dash and instill defroster
outlets as shown in Figure 30.
Figure 27 Drill Through Dashboard and Veneer Per Templates
Figure 28 Location of Defroster Vents
Figure 29 Padded Dash Over Dashboard
Figure 30 Defroster Vent Installed In Dashboard
8. Installation of Gauges and Switches
Tools Required Needle Nose Pliers
Pliers
Screwdriver
Socket Set – ¼ inch
Parts Required Ff #Z409 Dashboard
Ff #Z410 Overhead Console
Ff #X161 Speedometer
Ff #X162 Tachometer
Ff #X165 Oil Temperature Gauge
Ff #X164 Fuel Gauge
Ff #X163 Ammeter
Ff #X135 Turn Signal Indicator Lights
Ff #X135 High Beam Indicator Light
Ff #X132 Ignition Switch
Ff #X142 9 Switches
Ff #Z784 Wiring Harness
Refer to Figure 31
Install all gauges and switches in dash and overhead console as shown in Figure 31. Wire dashboard according
to instructions included with the wiring harness. Do not wire the overhead console.
Figure 31A Dashboard Layout for Gauges
Figure 31B Overhead Console Layout
9. Installation of Dashboard
Tools Required Drill
3/16 inch Drill Bit
Philips Screwdriver
3/8 inch Wrench
Pop River Gun
Parts Required Bolt Kit #4
Ff #M5604B Wiring Harness Clamp
Refer to Figure 32
Place dash under the windshield opening and drill through the body and dash at the dimples using a 3/16-inch
drill bit as shown in Figure 32. You will heed a helper to hold the dash in place while drilling. Bolt dash to body using bolt
kit #4.
Figure 32A Installing Dashboard
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