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1'-7 3/4"
1'-1 5/16"
1'-6 1/2"
Notes:
Use a water based neoprene contact adhesive glue It has high tack, but can be
repositioned, lifted and reset if necessary. Once it is correctly placed, a quick pass
with a roller will remove any voids or bubbles.
1'-2 1/8"
Use a framing square to make sure you cut all panels with the tweed pattern
running exactly at 45 degrees and that the panels are true rectangles. Use a fresh
razor blade to cut the panels to minimize fraying of the tweed. When measuring
for the end panels allow a 1/2" overlap with the top and bottom panels in your
measurement. Draw pencil lines on the top and bottom of the amp where the end
panels will stop to help with placement of the end panels. Do this after the glue is
applied so you don’t cover your marks. Also, mark a centerline on the top and
bottom of the cabinet for reference along the perpendicular pencil lines and a
corresponding mark on a small piece of blue painters’ tape placed on the center of
the tweed panels. Position the tweed panel's edge at the pencil line and the center
reference marks when applying the panels. This will facilitate front to back and
top to bottom alignment.
Smooth the side panel from the top of amp to bottom first, then pull the side
panels’ edge material around the front and back edges of the cabinet and cleats,
making the necessary relief cuts. A disposable plastic putty knife is helpful for
tucking the tweed into the crevices where it wraps around the back panel cleats.
1'-2 1/4"
1'-8 3/4"
10 1/4"
1'-6 1/2"
1'-8 3/4"
1'-1 1/8"
Before moving on, lightly roll the flat surfaces to make sure the panel is properly
adhered. For the corners, you pinch the material (wash your hands before doing
this on each panel) tightly along the center of the corner radius. You end up with
a triangular shaped 'fin' of tweed, that sticks to itself and is quite rigid sticking out
along that radius center line at a 45 degree angle. Then take a sharp pair of
scissors and cut tight along the line where this 'fin' meets the amp. You can get it
cut close pretty easily. Don’t be afraid of cutting them too short. It's almost
impossible to cut them too short unless you pull so hard on the fin that it lifts the
material away from the amp. The material at the corner should be stuck really
well at this point and you’d have to pull hard to detach it. Once it's cut, the edges
of the cut will be sticking up slightly, but a quick pass with a roller will lay the
edges down and they will meet each other nicely. Start with a lower rear corner,
then lower front, then the more visible upper corners just in case.
The top and bottom panels are pretty straight forward, but again use alignment
marks on a small piece of the blue painters tape on each piece to make alignment
easier. The overlap on the end panels isn't folded over, just laid on top of the
them.
Apply glue to both the tweed and the cabinet surfaces and let dry to touch for
about 30 minutes before placing each panel. On the two outside corners at the
entrance to the control panel cutout, use the same 'pinch' method creating the
same fin and trim close with scissors. Then roll the seam as before. After
trimming, use your finger tips to press the cut edges down to each other tightly,
then hit them with the roller.
Take your time and do only one panel at a time. Make sure you place the filler
pieces at the inside curves of the control panel cutout first before placing the top
panel. Also, do not overlap these filler pieces onto the top of the amp or you’ll see
it after the top panel is placed. Keep a sharp razor blade in your knife.
6"
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