Felix Storch 2.0 Instruction Manual

Instruction manual
Felix 2.0, 3d printer-kit
Version2 – 12-April-2013
Copyright Information
This document contains proprietary information that is protected by copyright. No part of this document may be photocopied, reproduced, or translated
FelixRobotics
Wapendragervlinder 17
3544DL Utrecht
Netherlands
Copyright © 2013 FELIXrobotics.
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1 CON TE NTS
2 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 4
3 Specifications ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 5
4 Required toolset........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 6
5 Required skills ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 7
6 Important note .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 7
7 Module 1: Frame (time: 10-30 minutes) .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 8
8 Module 2: Z-axis (time: 45-90 min.) .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 12
9 Module 3: The Extruder (time: 30-90 min.) ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 18
10 Module 3: The X-axis (time: 30-60 min.) ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 24
11 Module 5: Table (time: 1-2 hours) ...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 29
12 Module 6: Y-axis (time: 10-30 min.) ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 31
13 Module 7: Electronics (time: 2-4 hrs.) ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 36
13.1 Mount the powersupply. ......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
13.2 Guide wires ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 40
13.3 Connect all wires to the electronics board............................................................................................................................................................................ 42
14 Finishing touches (time: 30-45 min.) .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 45
15 Calibration of table (5-15 mins) .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47
16 Making printer ready for operation. (30 – 60 mins) ....................................................................................................................................................................... 48
16.1 Printer preparation .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 48
16.2 Printer software – Repetier-Host ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 49
16.3 Calibrate the Z-direction/ Connect to printer ...................................................................................................................................................................... 50
16.4 OPTIONAL: Firmware installation ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 55
17 It’s time for printing! (15- 30mins) ...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 57
18 Quest to high quality printing .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 59
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18.1 Thermodynamics ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 59
18.2 Mechanics ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 59
18.3 Software. ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 59
19 FAQ ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 60
20 Terms Of Service ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 61
21 BOM Felix 2.0.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 64
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2 INT RO DUCTION
First of all thank you choosing FELIXprinters! To get your Felix printer up and running as fast
and painless as possible please follow this manual carefully. When things are unclear or if you
have any remarks or tips, please contact us at info@felixprinters.com. We also recommend
looking on our forum and get yourself a forum account. You will benefit from the ability to get
downloadable and printable upgrades for your printer. Also it is a great source to obtain more
knowledge about your printer and printing in general.
Depending on your skills this kit will take approximately 4-12 hours to assemble and to make
your first print. Please read the manual carefully and follow it step by step. Please don’t make
any shortcuts unless you know what you’re doing. It’s better to spend a few minutes extra on
reading, than to wait a week for new parts.
The manual is build up as follows: Each module starts with a short introduction. After that a Bill
of Materials (BOM) is presented. The BOM doesn’t contain the small bolts and nuts, because for
the assembly of the printer the assortment box of bolts and nuts is required. Further to not bloat
the manual, a picture of each part is only displayed in the complete BOM of the printer. This can
be found in the Supplement at the end of the manual.
Before starting the build of your printer, it’s recommended to check if all parts are present by
comparing it with the bill of materials.
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Printing
Electrical
Print Technology
Fused Filament Fabrication
AC input:
100-240V, 50-60 Hz
Build Volume
25.5 x 20.5 x 23.5 cm
Power Requirements
12V DC, 15 Amps
Print Quality
Extreme
High
Medium
Low
50 microns
100 microns
250 microns
320 microns
Connectivity
USB
Postioning Precision
XY: 13 microns
Z: 0.4 microns
Filament Diameter
1.75 mm
Mechanical
Nozzle Diameter
0.35 mm
Chassis
Aluminum profiles
Build platform
Aluminum plate
Software
XY Bearings
Linear ball bearings
Software Bundle:
RepetierHost + Skeinforge/SFACT
Z bearing
Linear ball bearings
File Types:
.STL
Stepper Motors
1.8 deg angle
1/16 micro-stepping
Supports:
Windows, XP and newer
Linux (Ubuntu 12.04+)
Mac OS X [10.6/10.7/10.8]
Physical Dimensions
Weight
7.5kg
Shipping Weight
11 kg
Shipping Box
50x30x30 cm, DIY kit
50x50x60 cm, Assembled unit
Temperature
Ambient operating temperature
15-32 ˚C [60 – 90 ˚F]
Storage temperature
0 – 32 ˚C
Warmup time
Heated bed (60 degC)
3 min
Nozzle (200degC)
1 min
3 SPE CI FICATION S
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Wrenches 7 and 13mm
Tweezers. (included in kit)
Nippers.
Caliper
Allen Key set. IMPORTANT: they
need to be preferably long and
have a round head at the end. Pliers
Drill with a variable speed. When
plastic parts need to be drilled out,
it should be done with care
Level
Drill bits 4, 5mm
Hammer
Wire stripper, recommended
Detergent (Spirit, Acetone, Alcohol)
4 REQU IR ED TOOLSE T
The following tools are minimally required to assemble and use the Felix printer
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First words at beginning of chapter1 Column 1
Column 2
5 REQU IR ED SKIL LS
The following skills are required to put the Felix printer together:
- Basic soldering skills
- Skills to assemble a mechanical construction
- Technical insight
- Common sense
If you lack any of these skills or are unsure please get help from someone who can guide you or do this for you
6 IMP OR TANT NO TE
To save paper the flow of the document is built up as follows:
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BOM for frame module
Part
Amount
40x40x400 profile, incl 2xM8
1
40x40x400 profile, incl 1xM8, 1xD7
2
40x40x400 profile, incl 3xD7
1
80x40x440 incl work
1
40x40 protective caps
4
80x40 protective caps
1
frame connector set
6
handle incl protective cap
1
hex sockethead bolt M6x1(or M8, depends on the used
handle type)
2
t-slot nut - 8 ST M6 (or M8, depends on the used handle
type)
2
t-slot nut - 8 ST M4
15
dampning feet
6
strip for putting away cable pieces of 40 cm
2
Overview of frame module
1 2 3
4
7 MOD UL E 1: F RA ME (TIME: 10-30 MI NUTES)
Required for this module
Tools
- Allen key set
- Level reference surface
- Level
Parts
- Bag with description ‘frame module’.
- Aluminum beams.
The goal of this module is to create the frame on the right. Try to make everything as perpendicular as possible to each othe r. Let surfaces align as good as
possible. A good idea is to use a level tool.
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Collect the parts shown above. Notice the holes in the beams.
To make it understandable, the beams are described as follows:
Beam 1: 40x40x400mm beam, has 3 drilled holes
Beam 2: 40x40x400mm beam, has 1 drilled hole and one thread at the
far end of the beam
Beam 3: 40x40x400mm beam, has 2 threads at the far ends.
Beam 4: 80x40x440mm beam has one drilled hole and one thread at
the bottom.
Some of the beams have a screw thread on the far ends of the beam.
These are present for the frame connectors.
sticking the hex-key through the holes. Do not fix it too tight because
fine-tuning/leveling is needed later on.
Take beam 4 and 1. They must be connected as oriented in the above
picture.
Screw the frame connectors in the bottom of beam 4 as indicated in
the figure. Then slide beam 4 onto beam 1.
Slide one of the two beams number 2 onto beam 1. Watch the
orientation of the drilled hole.
Slide beam 4 in position. On the side of beam 1 where the hex-key is
positioned there are two drilled holes. Tighten the frame connectors by
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Turn the frame and fix beam 2 onto beam 1. Again not too tight.
Take beam 2 again and screw the frame connector on it’s far end. Then
slid it on beam 3 as indicated on the picture.
Take beam 3. Screw both frame connectors on the far-ends. Slide it
onto beam 2 and tighten it.
Next try to slide it also on beam 4.
Thighten the screws, again not too tight.
Now it is time for fine-tuning. Try to get every beam as level as
possible. Also align the beams as good as possible. See an example in
the picture below
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Topview of frame
When all the beams are aligned and leveled, it is time to firmly tighten
the frame connectors.
Get the protective caps and mount them carefully with a hammer
Put the damping feet underneath the frame near the edge
The handle should be mounted in the final stages of assembly.
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BOM Z-axis
Part description
Amount
Hiwin lineair ball bearing set -
HGW15CC1R300Z0
1 Trapezium spindle + bronze nut
1
motor nema 17
2
z-spindelmount bottom - v2
1
pulley_motor_HTD
1
z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2
1
z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0
1
z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0
1
optosensor
2
small bearing
4
z-axis-limitswitch_vane_v6_F2_0
1
8 MOD UL E 2: Z- AX IS (TIME : 45 -90 MIN.)
Note: Most holes are designed to minimize the need for any post processing, like filing and drilling. Sometimes, however the bolts will not fit smoothly
and it therefore needs to be drilled out slightly. Required drill sizes can be 3, 4 and 5mm.
Get the parts indicated in the list above.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart of
the linear bearing go off the rail.
There are small balls in there which
might fall out when the cart rolls of
the rail.
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Place the frame on a table let the back face of the wide beam rest on the
table surface.
Motor wires
M4x20 bolt + small washer
Make sure part touches frame
Put three
above.
t_slot nut - 8 ST M4
in the frame as indicated in the picture
Put some tape on the far edge of the rail to prevent the cart from sliding
off.
Put the motor in place and guide the wires through the hole
Before mounting the motor make sure the wires are orientated as above
First mount the linear guide loosely onto the frame with M4x20 bolts.
Then mount the
above with m4x20 bolts and important use small washers.
z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2
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onto the frame, indicated
Mount a motor with the m3x8 CSK (countersunk head) bolts.
12mm
Start to align the z-axis guide. Push the bottom side against the printed
part. Measure the distance of the edge as indicated above. The distance
should be 12mm.
Mount the z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0 onto the cart with two M5x16
bolts. Don’t forget to place the m5 washers. Mount a motor onto the
plastic part. IMPORTANT: match the orientation of the wires according
to the picture.
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Mount the 2 bearings.
Order from right to left.
M4x25 bolt, 2x small bearing, small washer, plastic part, small washer,
M4 self locking nut.
Then insert 2x m4 selflocking nuts besides the just mounted rolls into
the plastic part as shown in the picture above.
On the bottom insert the bronze nut into the plastic part.
Take the
z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0
the picture above onto the already mounted plastic part.
part and slide it as indicated on
As indicated screw on both sides m4x20 bolts into the part to clamp the
2 big plastic parts together.
Mount the big part onto the cart of the linear bearing with M5x16 bolts,
don’t forget the M5 washers!
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Put a piece of the supplied double side tape underneath 2 opto-sensors
Distance pulley to motorface = 1-2mm M4x20 bolt
M4 thin nut
Mount the opto-sensors with the small Philips head screws. (Depending
on the delivered batch it could be bronze or stainless steel screws)
Take the z-axis_limitswitchvane and slide the nut into the slot. On top
screw in an m4x20 bolt. Don’t screw it all the way in, let the tip of the
bolt touch the flange as indicated in the picture.
Place the pulley upside down on the motorshaft. The distance of the
bottom of the pulley to the faceplate of the motor should be 1-2mm.
Mount the z-axis-limitswitch vane with an m4x20 bolt + washer. The
bracket should be approx. 1cm from the top of the rail. This is the
adjusting mechanism for the z-axis height and will be covered later for
finetuning.
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CAREFULLY Screw in the z-axis spindle from the top until it reaches the
motor and place the z-axis assembly in the middle. Make sure the brass
nut is inside the z-axis carrier assembly.
NOTE: It is important not to force the spindle in because when it is not
straight anymore it will affect print-quality.
Congratulations, you’ve finished the z-axis module.
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BOM Extruder
Part description
Amount
Extru_base_v9_F1_5
1
Extru_base_pt2_v5_F1_5
1
Extru_base_pt4_F1_5
1
Extru_arm_v5_F_1_5
1
Extru_airduct_v2
1
motor nema 17
1
Fan 40x40x10mm
2
small bearing
1
extruder_insert_piece
1
9 MOD UL E 3: T HE E XTRUDER (TI ME : 30-90 MIN.)
Collect the following tools
- Allen key set
- Large file
- Drill 4mm
We need the above printed parts
We will create small sub assemblies and then join them together
Get the extu_arm part and clean out the hole with a 4mm drill as shown
above slowly.
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Mount parts onto the extruder arm:
From right to left. M4x20 bolt, 2x small washer, bearing, small washer,
plastic part, thin nut.
Insert a thin nut m4 as shown above. Before doing that clean the hole out
a little and insert the nut.
Mount the extruder wheel onto the motor with the little set-screw from
the bag of the extruder wheel. The set-screw should not stick out more
then 0.5mm, because it might then scrape the surrounding plastic parts. .
NOTE 1: sometimes the tolerances of the extruder wheel are tight. It is very
difficult to get it on the motor-axle. DO NOT force it on there, but try to
drill out the hole with a 5mm drill, until it fits smoothly on the motor-shaft.
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Insert the m4 self locking nuts into the hexagon holes of the
extru_base_pt4, use an m4x20 bolt including washer as indicated above.
Make sure the wires match and also the orientation of the sticker on the
fan. The fan blows out air at the side of the sticker.
Mount the motor onto the extru_base_pt2 part displayed above and
match the orientation of the wires.
Take the extru_base_pt2 and drill out the hole with a 4mm drill as shown
above.
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Insert the extruder arm as shown above.
Mount the extruder arm onto the just mounted parts. An m4x40 bolt is
required. Use 4 large washers and 3 curved washer as shown in the picture above. NOTE: Make sure the bolt goes straight into
the nut!
This bolt and washer combination will be used to put some tension on
filament which will be pushed down into the hot-end.
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The cad drawing above displays how the sub-assembly should look like.
Mount the fan and airduct with m4x20 bolts onto the extruder base. Use
m4 selflocking nuts and also use washers.The bolts don’t have to go all the
way through the self locking part of the nut.
NOTE: watch the orientation of the wires and also make sure the sticker of
the fan is facing downwards.
Slide the motor-subassembly onto the base.
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Move hot-end into slot and make sure edge of hot-end touches the base of
the extruder.
Mount the extru_base_pt4 as shown above.
Close the hinge door and screw in the m4x40 bolt. Make sure the hot-end
is not free to move, otherwise exert more force on the m4x40 bolt. Guide
the cables as shown above. Use the hole of the fan and a cable-tie to fix
the hot-end cables. Make sure it is done this way, it also gives tension
release to the hot-end cables.
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Insert the belt tensioning part as shown above.
Congratulations you’ve finished the extruder module!
BOM x-axis
Part description
Amount
x-stage-motor-bracket_v6_F1_5
1
x-axis belt mount_v6_F1_5
1
Hiwin lineair ball bearing set
1
pulley_motor_HTD
1
motor nema 17
1
bearing 624
1
optosensor
1
10 MOD UL E 3: T HE X -AXIS (T IM E: 30-60 MIN.)
Note: Don’t waste any belt. There is only one long belt in the kit, which must be divided in such a way that it is usable for the x and y-axis.
Put the frame upside down. Mount the hiwin rail loosely onto the
beam. Use 2 black t-slot nuts with m3 holes in them with m3x12 bolts to
mount the rail. Also place a m4 t-slot nut as indicated in the picture above,
that one will be used for the x-axis belt mount part.
Pre-assemble the x-axis belt mount part. From right to left.
M4x40 bolt, small washer, plastic part, large washer, 2x small washer,
bearing, 2x small washer, large washer, plastic part.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart of the linear
bearing go off the rail. There are small balls in there
which might fall out when the cart rolls of the rail.
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14mm
Mount bolt loosely, make
sure plastic doesn’t
Top of plastic part should
touch aluminum beam.
Mount belt before
mounting bracket
onto frame.
IMPORTANT MOUNT THE BELT BEFORE MOUNTING THE BRACKET
SHOWN ABOVE: Guide the belt over the bearing as shown above before
mounting the sub-assembly to the frame. The top-bolt in the picture is an
m4x16 bolt, also use a washer.
Position and fix the rail onto the frame. Let the rail touch the x-axis belt
mount part.
Mount the x-axis motor bracket onto the frame with an M4x16 bolt, use a
small washer underneath the bolt-head.
IMPORTANT: The top of the plastic part should touch the top
aluminum beam as indicated in green above.
Mount the extruder assembly onto the cart of the linear guide, with 4
m3x6 countersunk bolts.
The distance along the rail and the edge of the beam should be 14mm.
This way it is centered perfectly over the slot of the beam.
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Belt guiding channel
Guide the belt through the extruder carriage.
Mount a pulley onto the motor-shaft upside down. The distance between
the bottom of the pulley and the face of the motor should be approx
0.5mm, this can be adjusted later on if required.
Turn the frame in its upright position and mount the motor onto the
bracket. Notice the orientation of the motor.
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Guide the belt over the motor pulley back to the extruder carriage and
insert it in the toothed slot
Pull on the belt as indicated above and place the small tensioning bracket
in place when there is some tension on the belt. Place it just like t he picture
above, that there is still some room to put more tension on the bolt.
When you turn the bolt clockwise the belt will get more tension.
Put some double sided tape on the opto-sensor and mount it onto the
bracket with the small philipshead screws.
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It finally should look like the picture above. This however is a picture from
an older revision.
Cut off the remaining piece of belt. Only 2cm should stick out of the end of
the extruder base. Don’t waste any belt. There is only one long belt in
the kit, which must be divided in such a way that it is usable for the x
and y-axis.
You have now finished the x-axis!
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BOM table
Part description
Amount
table_2mm
1
Foil heater
4
11 MOD UL E 5: TAB LE (TIME: 1-2 HOU RS )
Important notes: Work carefully; this will benefit the print quality. Make sure that you don’t warp the surface of the table by exerting too
much force /weight on the table
The goal of this module is to get the foil heater onto the aluminum
plate. The picture above shows the back/bottom side of the plate.
For illustrative purposes the view above is the top-side. Where you can
see the countersunk hole.
Clean the backside of the plate with detergent.
SLOWLY and CAREFULLY remove the protective layer from the foil
heater. The adhesive layer should remain intact as good as possible.
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Place the sticker without bubbels on the surface. By wiping it piece by
piece on the surface from the middele to the edge.
It should finally look like this.
You are done with assembly of the table.
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BOM y-axis
Part description
Amount
y-stage bracket pt1_v6_F1_5
1
y-stage bracket pt2_v6_F1_5
1
y-stage bracket pt4_v4
1
20x10_aluminum profile + protective cap
1
t_slot_nut_5
1
Hiwin lineair ball bearing set
1
t_slot_nut_5_M3
2
t_slot_nut_8_M3
3
ISO 10642 - M3 x 6 --- 5N - CSK
5
Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 8
2
Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 12
4
Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 16
10
Prevailing torque type hexagon nut ISO 7040 - M3
6
Washer ISO 7089 - M3
6
12 MOD UL E 6: Y -A XI S (TIME : 10 -30 MIN.)
Required tools for this module
- Allen key set.
- wrench
IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart of
the linear bearing go off the rail.
There are small balls in there which
might fall out when the cart rolls of
the rail.
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Mount both brackets onto rail with m4x16 bolts and the m3 self locking
nuts. Don’t forget to place the washers
Mount the small
pt2_v5_F1_5
to tension the belt later on.
Get the small aluminum beam, first put the plastic cap on it, next to the
drilled hole. This can be done with a hammer.
y-stage bracket pt4_v4
. Use a m4x25 bolt and a m4 nut. This small part is needed
onto the
y-stage bracket
Take the table assembly and place the m4x30 countersunk bolts as
indicated above on the three holes in the table. Put a curved washer, large
washer and fix those with a m4 thin nut.
Slide in the small t-slot nut on the other side, and mount this beam onto
one of the middle 2 holes of the y-axis rail with a M3x8 bolt.
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On top of the just mounted washers place per each bolt, 5 large washers
and 4 curved washers.
Now place the y-axis onto the table. When it doesn’t directly fit, there is
no need to file any parts. The three bolts can be slightly re-oriented. This
can be done to exert a little sideway force on the bolt. When it still doesn’t
fit, you could try to adjust the position of the small aluminum beam.
After placement mount table bolts with an M4 thin nut. Use a small
washer underneath the m4 nuts at the plastic parts. Use a large washer
for the bolt at the small aluminum beam.
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Re-orientate the frame by placing the wide beam onto a table. Mount the
y-axis cart on the z-axis part with four M3x16 bolts with the m3 washers.
Now it is time to put the left over belt from the x-axis onto the y-axis.
Take the belt and cut it off straight.
Push the belt inside the bracket. Let the belt make contact with as much
teeth of the bracket as possible. Also push it as far as possible, use a small
allen key for that. If you have misplaced the belt or you want to remove it,
on top of the bracket is a small hole which can be used to push out the
belt with a small allen key.
Mount the y-stage bracket pt4 onto the y-stage bracket pt6 with an
m4x25 bolt.
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Guide the belt over the pulley and 2 bearings as indicated above.
NOTE 1: The pictures are from the Felix 1.0, but the procedure is the
same.
NOTE 2: If you are doing this module before assembling the x-axis
module, do not waste unnecessary pieces of belt, because it is
needed for the X-axis!!
Next step is to tension the belt by turning the tensioning bolt. See picture
above. The belt should be tensioned when the distance between the parts
is approx. 1 to 2 mm.
Check if you applied enough tension by pushing the belt as displayed
above. It should feel firm.
Congratulations, you are done with the mechanics of the printer.
Push the belt into the small printed clamp, while at the same time
tensioning the belt by hand. Important is that the small clamp is touching
the right edge of the bigger part as shown in the picture above.
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13 MOD UL E 7: E LE CT RONICS ( TI ME: 2-4 HR S. )
The goal of this module is to install all electric wires and to neatly put them away in the frame.
The required tools for this module are:
- Nippers
- Screwdriver, flat and philipshead
IMPORTANT: Make sure you are grounded and make sure you cannot create static electricity.
Static electricity can kill the electronics board. To prevent it do the following:
- make sure you have no shoes or other isolating footwear on.
- Prevent touching any components on the board.
- When grabbing the electronics board grab it from the side
- Prevent very dry environment
- Do not wear any fleece or synthetic clothing.
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To make the printer work properly the schematics below must be matched. This chapter will guide you step by step to match the schematics above.
NOTE: It is important that the cables are placed as neatly as possible. Placing the wires in a messy way, can lead to EMC problems. The
electronics can become sensitive to outside influences and lead to unreliable printing. For instance when a lamp is switched on or off the
electronics could stop working until you reset it again.
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BOM Electronics
Part description
Amount
Electonics_case_F_2_0_v3_base
1
Electonics_case_F_2_0_v4_cap
1
Felixprinters electronics
1
mini-ATX-seasonic
1
Power Cable EU,USA,Australian or British
1
Pre-crimped cables 3 threads
3
USB cable 1.8m
1
13. 1 MO UNT THE P OW ERSUPPLY.
Get the parts described in the table above.
Mount the electonics case base part onto powersupply with the
powersupply screws (short thick philips head screws). Slide the part on
the powersupply from the top.
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no-power
full-power
40mm
Mount the powersupply assembly onto the frame with m4x16 bolts
including washers.
Before mounting the electronics make sure the potmeters are set ok. The
pot-meters shown in the figure above regulate the power to the motors.
The pot meters have a turning range. Fully counter clockwise is full power
to the stepper drivers. Fully clockwise is no-power to the stepper drivers.
Be carefull with turning the potmeter to full power. Over time the stepper
drivers may become too hot. There is a self protection mechanism in the
chip which will temporarily turn the chip off to cool itself down. It will
protect itself, but this is off course unwanted behavior as it will give
intermittent movement during printing. Do the following as a starting
point. If this occurs, then lower the power.
Slide the electronics box in like displayed above.
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13. 2 GU ID E WIRE S
Cut a piece of 20cm from the frame strips. Remove sharp edges, to
prevent damage to cables.
For your reference please put marks on the ends of
cables. During mounting it will become hard to
distinguish the cables when they reach the electronics
board.
Take the 3 wire cable and mount it onto the sensor as shown above.
Cut off 5cm and 12cm of strip and guide the cables as indicated above.
Make a nice loop for the cables which come from the extruder. It must be
small/large enough that the cable doesn’t get stuck around the far edge of
the top beam, when the extruder is at its end position in x-direction, but
there should also not be too much tension.
Place the cables behind the just cut off strip.
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Mount the wires for the opto-sensors of the y and z-axis.
Guide the cables of the z-axis table like indicated above. Make sure the
wires are mounted to the small aluminum beam as indicated above. This
provides tension relieve to the wires.
Guide the cables of the foil-heater along as shown above. Wrap a cable-
tie around it to again provide tension relieve on the cable.
Make a loop as indicated above. Make sure that when moving the table
from one side to the loop is just long enough. Make use of cable ties to
better form the loop. They can easily be removed later on.
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Cut off a piece of 14 cm of frame strip.
Make a second loop and guide it as shown above. This loop is necessary
to let the table move up and down. Again make use of the cable ties to
form the loop.
Extr
Z
Y
X
13. 3 CO NN ECT AL L WIRES T O T HE E LECTRON IC S
BOA RD .
We now will connect all the wires to the electronics board and make it
look like this
Step by step we will connect the wires to the board
All wires have to be screwed under a screw terminal. These are the steps:
- Cut the wire to length,
- Strip the wire ends approx. 5mm, like shown above. Not too long
because that could potentially cause a short circuit with other wires.
TIP: It is recommended to use cable-ties to form nice cable loops and get a
nice wiring job. You can remove excessive ones on the go .
Mount the extruder motor like indicated above.
Do this for the rest of the motor wires. Note the cable ties.
Take the wires of the x-axis opto-sensor, strip the ends.
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Mount it as indicated above.
X
Y Z Bed
Hot-end
2
1
1
2
Repeat the same for the other axes.
Connect the thermistors(temperature sensor) of the heated bed(red
wires) and hot-end(black wires)
Connect the heater wires of the bed and hot-end
1. Bed
2. Hot-end
Connect the wires of the fans.
1. Switchable fan which blows air through the airduct of the
extruder.
2. Fan which is always on and cools the top part of the hot-end.
IMPORTANT: match the color (polarity) of the wires.
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Connect green and purple wire.
Green wire functions as an on-off switch for the printer.
The purple wire is the standby power for the logic of the electronics.
Then mount the yellow and black wires. In total there are 4 black and 4
yellow wires. Join the wires together as shown above and mount them
under the terminal blocks.
Remove the cable-ties which hold the loops together. Now put the cable
spiral around it and cut to length.
Do this also for the z-axis loop and the x-axis loop.
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Finally for the loop which enters the electronics cabinet.
Congratulations you have finished the electronics part and it is time for
some finishing touches.
14 FIN IS HING TO UC HES (TIME: 30 -45 MIN.)
1. Check all the bolts if they are tightened correctly.
2. Check if all the axes can move freely, without cables being jammed.
3. Put a little bit of oil or grease on the z-spindle, to make it run smoothly. Preferably a thicker kind of grease or oil, we use motor-oil.
4. When you have a printer with a shining through color, the opto-sensors of the axes might not work. To make them work you can put one
of the following things on the switching vanes:
a. Tippex b. Non-shining through tape on the flange c. Piece of aluminum foil
5. Make sure the z-axis limit switch is put it 5 cm below the top edge of the z-axis rail. This way you prevent the hot-end from hitting the table before
the switching vane triggers the opto sensor.
6. Mount the frame handle. Use the supplied M8 (or M6 frame nuts depends on the handle type delivered) and bolts to mount it. Place the frame
holder as close to the vertical frame beam as possible.
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Prepare the heated bed.
In this step the goal is to put a layer of tape on the surface of the heated
bed. This layer makes sure the extruded plastic will correctly stick on the
bed.
Degrease/clean the bed with some detergent. We use spirit, but alcohol,
thinner, nail polish remover will work also.
Put strokes of the supplied tape on the heated bed. Try to do this with as
little bubbles and overlap of the strokes as possible. The better you do this
the nicer the bottom surface of the printed parts will be.
Fold the overhanging strokes of plastic around the edges. Then
afterwards clean the surface with detergent.
Supplied with the kit is kapton tape. After several tests with different
kinds of tape we recommend the following:
Kapton tape. Very good for printing. PVC tape, has the same sticking quality as kapton tape, but
significantly lower costs. Downside is the durability of the
tape. Needs to be replaced more often.
Painterstape. This is only recommended for very small parts,
with small contact surface to the bed. With PLA filament this
tapes sticks so well that the printed parts are extremely hard
to remove from the bed. To not damage the build platform for
certain parts we had to remove the parts including tape. This
tape is also a suitable tape for printing with ABS.
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15 CALIB RA TION O F TABLE (5-15 M IN S)
For a successful print it is important that the table is properly calibrated, which means it should be level. The table can be leveled by turning the 3
M4 nuts underneath the heated bed. !!The calibration is done by moving the axes by hand, not via interface of computer!!
Step 1:
Calibrate the table in y-direction.
1. Move the X-axis carriage(extruder) to the homing sensor
2. Move the Y-axis (heated bed) to the homing sensor
3. Move the table up until approximately 1mm from the hot-end.
4. Goal is to move the y-axis and to get the distance between the tip of hot-end and the heated bed the same over the whole movement.
5. Move the bed over the hole movement range and while moving adjust the 2 adjustment nuts underneath the plastic parts under the table
along the rail to level out the table in y-direction.
6. Move the table a little closer to the hot-end and repeat the previous step until the distance is the same over the whole length.
Step 2:
Calibration in x-direction
7. Move the table to the middle of its movement range
8. Move the X-axis carriage over it’s movement range. While moving check the distance between the hot -end and bed. If the distance is not even,
adjust it with the nut which supports the middle of the table.
You are done-calibrating the table.
Right or left view of table
Top view of table y-direction
y-direction
Front view of table
Top view of table y-direction
x-direction
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16 MAKIN G PRINT ER RE ADY F OR O PERA TI ON . (30 – 60 MIN S)
The software used to control the printer is open source. It is available for different platforms. This manual currently only covers the
WINDOWS version of the print software. For other platforms, guides should be available on the internet.
16 .1 PRI NT ER PR EP ARATI ON
These are necessary steps to make your printer and the computer able to communicate to eachother.
1. Plug in the powersupply cable. NOTE: without the powercable the electronics don’t work. It needs the voltage of the purple wire to drive the
logic of the board. The power to the rest of the board is controlled by the CPU when needed.
2. Plug in the USB cable into the computer
3. Your operating system should find the correct drivers automatically a. if the drivers are not found automatically then download drivers from here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm.
4. Go to start->right-click on “Computer”-> click properties -> in left pane click ‘’Device Manager’’
Note what COM-port is present. If there are more than one COM ports available unplug the RAMPS USB cable, and re-plug it again. Check
what port number is appearing and disappearing. This port number will be used for the next step.
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16 .2 PRI NT ER SO FT WARE – RE PETIER- HO ST
This software controls the printer and processes your CAD files to be printable.
1. Download latest version of Repetier-Host from www.felixprinters.com/downloads
2. Run the setupRepetierHostFELIXPrinters_0_xx.exe file and follow the installation instructions.
3. Make sure the power cable and USB cable of the printer are connected.
4. Start Repetier-host.
5. Go to Config -> Printer settings.
In the configuration window press the Refresh Ports button.
Choose the COM-port which belongs to your printer. This is the same COM-port obtained from previous chapter. The COM1 in the pictures is
probably different for your situation.
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16 .3 CAL IB RATE TH E Z-DI RE CT IO N/ C ON NECT TO P RINTER
To obtain good quality prints it is essential that the heated bed is level and that the distance between the hot-end and the bed is close enough.
The leveling was done prior to the software installation. So now it is time to calibrate the z-axis height with the z-axis limit switch vane. Make sure if
you have a shining through color printed parts for the printer to apply the tape, tipexx to the limit switch vanes.
1. Connect to the printer. (The connect button should turn green)
Other checks to see if the printer is connected properly:
On the bottom of the repetier host program the following should be displayed
If you see … commands waiting, press the reset button on the side of the electronicsboard. Next to the SD card and USB connector.
2.
Go to the
manual control
tab
Now it is time to calibrate the z-height.:
When doing the following steps, hold your hands on the powercable. Plug it out if something goes wrong.
- Press the Power button. This will turn on the power circuit of the electronics board. Do the following checks to ensure you have
connected the wires correctly.
o Make sure the fan which blows air on top of the hot-end is spinning
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o Make sure the leds of the opto-sensors on the electronics board and on the opto sensors are burning. Make sure the lights of
these opto-sensors goes out when they are triggered. So if the the flanges goe into the limit-switch the light should turn off.
- Make sure the bed is at least 5 cm from the hot-end.
- Press Home X, then move the x axis back and forth. The axis will only move in positive direction if the Home X button is not pressed.
- Press Home Y, move the y axis back and forth.
- Press Home Z
- The distance between the table and hot-end is probably too large.
-
- Turn the screw in such a way that the flexible vane mechanism goes downwards. Do this approx. till ¾ of the possible stroke. Move the
complete part a little bit up and press Home Z again.
- Repeat this until the table is approx. 3 mm from the nozzle. Now fix the bracket to the frame and start homing again. Now repeat this
procedure to get the nozzle closer and closer by turning the little screw as shown in the picture above.
- Do this a couple of times until the distance is less than the thickness of a piece o f normal paper.
Scroll down the manual control window.
- Check if the switchable fan mounted to the airduct is working.
Move the slider to 100% and press the fan button
You are almost ready to do your first print, please proceed to the next section.
5. The software is configured for printing and it is now time to slice and print your first object.
Get your test file from here: www.felixprinters.com/downloads/test_print_files . In this tutorial the smallest file is used.
_40x10.STL.
Go to the Slicer tab. You’ll see two type of slicers. The first one is SFACT and the second one is Slice3r. SFACT is the preferred choice and has
optimized profiles for the felixprinter. Slice3r is a faster slicer, but is less reliable than SFACT, which means that some models don’t get sliced correct.
1. Rough adjustment
2. Fine adjustment
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There is a large choice of slicing profiles. For the first test it is recommended to choose the 2_1_Normal_Quality profile.
Short explanation of the slicing profiles:
Profile 1_1 to 3_4: are profiles setup for everyday printing.
Profile 4_1 to 4_5: are profiles optimized for our production parts. These are the profiles used to produce the printed parts of your printer. Wh en
printer upgrades are provided, these can be used to slice your parts.
Profile 5_1 to 5_2: are used for specific cases
Profile 6_1 and further: are used for testing purposes.
The structure of the profiles 1 to 4 is done like this:
The profiles are easy to adjust and tweak yourself for further improvement. To do this just click the configure button
This will show a very elaborate amount of settings to tweak. Don’t worry every setting is well documented. If you are interes ted to know more just
click the question mark button as indicated in the figure below.
X_1_No support,
No support material is
generated. Part is printed as
imported. In this example not
recommended.
X_2_Exterior support
Automatic support material
generated outside of the object
X_4_Full support + raft
Automatic support material
generated outside and
inside of the object + a raft
to ensure good contact with
the heated bed.
X_3_Full support
Automatic support material
generated outside and inside of
the object
Printed part
Support material
Raft
Heated bed
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6. Now back in the repetier main interface make sure the SFACT slicer is activated and select one of the profiles.
7. Now it is time to slice our first object.
Press the
Load button
or in the Object placement tab,
Add Object button
.
Then navigate to the folder where you downloaded the _40x10.STL file or any other STL file.
8. Slice this file and prepare it to print. Press the
Slice with SFACT
button
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When the program is done after slicing the interface should look like this:
You have now sliced your first object and are ready to go to the next step.
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16 .4 OP TI ONAL: F IR MWARE IN STALL AT IO N
Sometimes the firmware of the electronics board can get updated; this chapter explains how to do it. For your first print this chapter is not necessary.
Go to the FelixPrinters http://www.felixprinters.com/downloads/ and follow the download links to get all the required software.
This step requires the following software:
- Arduino, www.arduino.cc platform to upload firmware to the printer.
- FELIXprinter firmware (check the revision of the printer). Contains printer settings for correct operation of your Felix printer.
Steps to upload new firmware to the FelixPrinter
1. Start Arduino software
It should look like this:
Select the correct platform:
Tools -> Board-> Arduino Mega(ATmega1280)
Select the correct Serial Port which you’ve noted earlier
Tools -> Serial Port -> COM…
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Extract the downloaded FelixPrinter firmware to some folder.
Open this folder through the Arduino interface and click on the
Marlin.INO
file.
A new window will pop-up, with all the source firmware files. All the settings for the FelixPrinter to work correctly are configured. Feel free to
browse around the files to get a better understanding of how it all works.
It is time to upload.
You are done with the firmware upload.
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17 IT’S TI ME FOR P RINTING! ( 15 - 30M IN S)
After all the hard work of the assembly and setting up the machine it is time to get some reward by means of your first successful print.
Before pressing the Print button make sure of the following
In the manual control window do the following.
- Heat up the extruder to 195 degC
- Heat up the heated bed to 55 degC
- Move the table down 10mm
If the extruder is heated up, check or make sure that the following is true
- Printer axes can move without obstructions
- Remove all plastic residues on the heated bed.
- Degreased heated bed surface
- When all axes are homed the hot-end is not touching the table.
- The supplied filament with the kit is PLA. The optimal temperature depends on the type of filament used. When using PLA check if the
temperatures of the hot-end and the heated bed are between 180-210 and 30-60 degrees C respectively. When using ABS these
temperatures should be somewhere around 210-250 and 70 – 100 degrees respectively. The heated bed temperatures can be much
lower with painters tape.
- To find the correct temperature for optimal extrusion, start with a low temperature. Then go up slightly. When the temperature is too
high, you might hear some pops and sisses coming from the hot-end. When the temperature is too low the extruder motor will have a
hard time extruding. When printing at high speed, the temperature of the filament should be a little higher.
- Move down the table 10mm and insert the filament in the extruder. Run the extruder until a steady flow of plastic comes out. Remove
this with tweezers.
- When there is not a continuous flow coming out of the nozzle, make sure the extruder arm is properly tensioned. Turn the m4 bolt
clockwise to put more tension on the filament, so the filament will pulled into the hot-end better. But watch out, too tight and the motor
will have a hard time to turn and the filament might be squashed so wide that it gets clogged into the hot-end.
When these steps are OK, you are ready to press that print button.
If the calibration was done ok the print should finish without any problem.
The most probable cause of failure could be the wrongly adjusted z -height of the first layer.
Two things can happen:
- The plastic won’t stick to the heated bed. This means the distan ce between the table and the hot-end is too large
- The first layer sticks but seems squashed, compared to the other layers. This means the hot-end is too close to the table.
If one of the above failures happens, adjust the z-axis switch vane accordingly.
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If the print looks like the picture above than congratulations your printer is completed!!
IMPORTANT info:
To keep the hot-end running as long as possible, let the filament run through a dust collector like a small piece of sponge. The filament picks quite a
lot of dust due to static charge or dirt fr om the factory. This will all enter the hot-end and partially stick in there and finally clog the nozzle. When th is
happens the hot-end needs to be drilled out when hot from both sides. A tutorial for this is available on the forum on the website.
When changing different kind of filament it can be done in 2 ways:
1 Just cut the old part just above the extruder and keep running the extruder until you can feed the new filament. 2 Retract the current filament out of the extruder and then insert the new one.
o To get the old filament out, retract 50 mm with a high velocity (1000mm/min). This is advised because fast retraction
reduces stringing to a minimum. The little strings of molten plastic are able to jam the inlet of the hot-end. When this
happens, you need to take out the hot-end and remove the plastic.
o Then feed it again with a low velocity of 200mm/min.
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18 QUEST TO HIGH Q UALITY PR IN TING
After experimenting a little with the printer, you probably want to get the most out of your printer. This chapter addresses some categories to
increase print quality.
18 .1 THE RM ODYNA MI CS
Filament printing temperature is an important parameter. There is usually one optimal temperature to print at, this is different for each material type
and even for different colors of the same material.
PLA prints somewhere between 180 to 210 degrees C.
ABS from 220 to 250 degrees.
This will happen when printing at too low temperature:
- The printed parts will become brittle, because the printed layers do not stick very well.
- Extruder needs a lot of force to push the filament through the nozzle. It can happen that at high print speeds, the force demand could not
be fulfilled, which result in skipped steps of the extruder motor.
When printing at too high temperatures:
- You will experience ooze(little strings) of the filament.
- You could hear bubbles pop, this can be evaporated water inside the filament.
- Printing small prints will be difficult because when printing the next layer, the previous layer could still be soft.
TIP: when printing very small objects try to print at low speed or try to print more at once, this gives to previous printed lay ers time to cool down a
bit.
Heated bed
The first layer which is in contact with the heated bed is the foundation of the printed part. You want to make sure that this first layer is near
perfection. Sometimes it can be troubling to get parts to stick to the bed, or parts can come loose at the edges after a whil e. This can be because of
the following:
- Bed surface is not degreased enough.
- Temperature of the heated bed is too low, try increasing it with 5 degrees
- Bed is not level. Make sure the bed is perfectly level, especially for large prints it can be that the distance of the hot -end to the bed is too
much at one side of the print, when the bed is not level.
- Print speed of first layer is too fast.
- Hot-end temperature is too low. Try increasing it 5 degrees.
18 .2 ME CH ANICS
Belts/Pulley’s
Usually when perimeters of experiencing bad print quality, this can mean the following. Make sure the pulley’s are tightened.
1: Pulley’s are not tightened enough
2: Belt tension is not high enough.
Hot-end
Check that the hot-end is fixed in the extruder carriage. If not, the prints will come out ugly.
18 .3 SO FT WARE.
High print speeds is nice, but you will suffer print quality. To have a good compromise between speed and quality, a n infill speed of 80mm/s is a
good start, then take the perimeter speed at 30 or 40mm/s .
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19 FAQ
Q: Sometimes the extruded filament looks ugly or has a varying diameter:
A: Not homogenous extruded filament can be caused by the following:
- Check the filament quality. Bad quality filament can have a varying diameter from 1.95 to 1.4mm instead of a continuous 1.75mm.
- There is not enough tension on the extruder arm. Increase the tension on the extruder arm a little. Be careful by not to put too much
tension, because the extruder motor can have a hard time turning
- Filament gets stuck somewhere. Check if the feed of filament to the extruder is going without any obstructions.
Q: There is a lot of backlash in the axis-movement:
A: Check the following:
- The belt is tensioned properly
- The set-screw on the motor-pulley is tightened enough
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20 TERMS O F SERV IC E
Please read these Terms of Service (“Terms”) carefully before using this Website or ordering from FELIXrobotics, (“FELIXpriters”). Your use of the
website www.FELIXprinters.com (“Website”) confirms your unconditional acceptance of the following Terms. If you do not accept these Terms, do
not use this Website. Print and save these Terms and, periodically, check for the latest version at http://www.felixprinters.com/terms-of-service.
FELIXprinters reserves the right to modify or revise these Terms in its sole discretion and at any time. You agree to be bound by any modifications
and/or revisions.
1. Returning Purchased Items. FELIXprinters accepts returns for any unaffected item within 14 calendar days from the date of receipt of
merchandise. After such time, all sales are considered final. “Unaffected” means a device has never been assembled, powered up, programmed, or
otherwise changed. FELIXprinters cannot accept returns on purchased items that have had electrical power applied to them, or been otherwise
programmed, changed, or affected.
2. Offer and Acceptance. While it is our practice to confirm orders by e -mail, the receipt of an e-mail order confirmation does not constitute our
acceptance of an order or our confirmation of an offer to sell a product or service. We reserve the right, without prior notice, to limit the order
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4. Products and Services Availability and Accuracy. All prices, features, content and specifications of products and services described or depicted on
this Website are subject to change at any time without notice. Certain weights, measures and similar descriptions are approximate and are provided
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this Website are the registered and unregistered trademarks, trade names and service marks of their respective owners. Nothing contained on this
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7. Third Party Links. From time to time, this Website may contain links to websites that are not owned, operated or controlled by FELIXprinters or
their respective affiliates. All such links are provided solely as a convenience to you. If you use these links, you will leave this Website. Neither we
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Neither we nor any of our respective affiliates endorse, guarante e, or make any representations or warranties regarding any other websites, or any
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or profane material or any material that could constitute or encourage conduct that would be considered a criminal offense or give rise to civi l
liability, or otherwise violate any law. In addition to any remedies that we may have at law or in equity, if we determine, in our sole discretion, that
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10. DISCLAIMERS. OUR PRODUCTS AND ASSEMBLY KITS MAY BE USED BY EXPERIENCED, SKILLED USERS, AT THEIR OWN RISK. TO THE
FULLEST EXTENT PERMISSIBLE BY THE APPLICABLE LAW, WE HEREBY DISCLAIM ANY AND ALL RESPONSIBILITY, RISK, LIABILITY AND
DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF DEATH OR PERSONAL INJURY RESULTING FROM ASSEMBLY OR OPERATION OF OUR PRODUCTS. YOUR
USE OF THIS SITE IS AT YOUR RISK. THE INFORMATION, MATERIALS AND SERVICES PROVIDED ON OR THROUGH THIS WEBSITE ARE
PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT ANY WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A
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AFFILIATES WARRANT THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE INFORMATION, MATERIALS OR SERVICES PROVIDED ON OR
THROUGH THIS WEBSITE. THE INFORMATION, MATERIALS AND SERVICES PROVIDED ON OR THROUGH THIS WEBSITE MAY BE OUT
OF DATE, AND NEITHER FELIXROBOTICS, NOR ANY OF ITS RESPECTIVE AFFILIATES MAKES ANY COMMITMENT OR ASSUMES ANY
DUTY TO UPDATE SUCH INFORMATION, MATERIALS OR SERVICES. THE FOREGOING EXCLUSIONS OF IMPLIED WARRANTIES DO NOT
APPLY TO THE EXTENT PROHIBITED BY LAW. PLEASE REFER TO YOUR LOCAL LAWS FOR ANY SUCH PROHIBITIONS. ALL PRODUCTS
AND SERVICES PURCHASED ON OR THROUGH THIS WEBSITE ARE SUBJECT ONLY TO ANY APPLICABLE WARRANTIES OF THEIR
RESPECTIVE MANUFACTURERS, DISTRIBUTORS AND SUPPLIERS, IF ANY. TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMISSIBLE BY APPLICABLE LAW,
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RESPECT TO THE PRODUCTS AND SERVICES LISTED OR PURCHASED ON OR THROUGH THIS WEBSITE. WITHOUT LIMITING THE
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ARE DUE TO NORMAL WEAR, PRODUCT MISUSE, ABUSE, PRODUCT MODIFICATION, IMPROPER PRODUCT SELECTION, NON-
COMPLIANCE WITH ANY CODES, OR MISAPPROPRIATION. WE MAKE NO WARRANTIES TO THOSE DEFINED AS “CONSUMERS” IN THE
MAGNUSONMOSS WARRANTY-FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION IMPROVEMENTS ACT. THE FOREGOING EXCLUSIONS OF IMPLIED
WARRANTIES DO NOT APPLY TO THE EXTENT PROHIBITED BY LAW. PLEASE REFER TO YOUR LOCAL LAWS FOR ANY SUCH
PROHIBITIONS.
11. LIMITATIONS OF LIABILITY. FELIXrobotics assumes no responsibility, nor will be liable, for any damages to, or any viruses or malware that may
infect your computer, telecommunication equipment, or other property caused by or arising from your access to, use of, or browsing this Website, or
your downloading of any information or materials from this Website. In no event will FELIXrobotics or any of its respective officers, directors,
employees, shareholders, affiliates, agents, successors or assigns, nor an y party involved in the creation, production or transmission of this Website,
be liable to you or anyone else for any indirect, special, punitive, incidental or consequential damages (including, without limitation, those resulting
from lost profits, lost data or business interruption) arising out of the use, inability to use, or the results of use of this Website, any Websites l inked to
info@felixprinters.com www.felixprinters.com Page 63 of 70
this Website, or the materials, information or services contained on any or all such Websites, whether based on warranty, contract, tort or any other
legal theory and whether or not advised of the possibility of such damages. The foregoing limitations of liability do not apply to the extent
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refunds policies posted on this Website.
12. Revisions to these terms of service. These terms of service may be revised at any time and from time to time by updating this posting. You should
visit this page from time to time to review the then current terms of service because they are binding on you. Certain provisions of these terms of
service may be superseded by legal notices or terms located on particular pages of this Website.
13. Choice of Law; Jurisdiction. These terms of service supersede any other agreement between you and FELIXrobotics to the extent necessary to
resolve any inconsistency or ambiguity between them. These terms of service will be governed by and construed in accordance w ith the laws of the
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this Website will be brought only in the courts of the State of New York or the United States District Court for the District of New York. A printed
version of these terms of service will be admissible in judicial and administrative proceedings based upon or relating to these te rms of service to the
same extent and subject to the same conditions as other business documents and records originally generated and maintained in printed form.
14. Termination. You or we may suspend or terminate your account or your use of this Website at any time, for any reason or f or no reason. You are
personally liable for any orders placed or charges incurred through your account prior to termination. We reserve the right to change, suspend, or
discontinue all or any aspect of this Website at any time without notice.
15. Additional Assistance. If you do not understand any of the foregoing terms of service or if you have any questions or comments, we invite you to
contact our Customer Care Department through our contact page. FELIXPRINTERS, THE REPLICATOR, STEPSTRUDER, THINGIVERSE, THING-O-
MATIC, MIGHTYBOARD, MAKERWARE, MAKERCARE, BOTCAVE, and BOTFARM are trademarks or
registered marks of FELIXrobotics, . All rights reserved.
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21 BOM FE LI X 2.0
Bolts and screws
Amount
ISO 4029 - M3 x 6-N - Set screw
6 ISO 10642 - M3 x 6 --- 6N - Countersunk
5
ISO 10642 - M3 x 8 --- 8N - Countersunk
18 ISO 10642 - M4 x 30 --- 30N - Countersunk
4
Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 8
2
Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 12
3 Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 16
10 ISO 4762 M4 x 12 --- 12N
2
ISO 4762 M4 x 16 --- 16N
6
ISO 4762 M4 x 20 --- 20N
15
ISO 4762 M4 x 25 --- 25N
6 ISO 4762 M4 x 40 --- 20N
4
ISO 4762 M5 x 16 --- 16N
5
Washer ISO 7089 - M3
10
Washer ISO 7089 - 4 - (small washer)
25
Washer ISO 7089 - 5
5 crinkeled washer
20
Corrosserie ring - M4 - (large washer)
25
Prevailing torque type hexagon nut ISO 7040 - M3
6 Hexagon Thin Nut ISO - 4035 - M4 - N
15
ISO 7040-M4-N - self prevailing nut
12
Powersupply screw
6
bronze small screw
8
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t_slot_nut_5_M3
2
t_slot_nut_8_M3
3
Printed Parts
x-stage-motor-bracket_v6_F1_5
1
x-axis belt mount_v 6_F1_5
1 y-stage bracket pt1_v6_F1_5
1 y-stage bracket pt2_v5_F1_5
1 y-stage bracket pt4_v4
2
z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0
1
z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0
1
z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2
1
z-axis-limitswitch_vane_v6_F2_0
1
Extru_base_v9_F1_5
1 Extru_base_pt2_v5_F1_5
1
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Extru_arm_v5_F_1_5
1
Extru_airduct_v2
1 Extru_base_pt4_F1_5
1
Electonics_case_F_2_0_v3_base
1
Electonics_case_F_2_0_v4_cap
1
Electronics
Heater Cartidge incl 2m wires (pre-assembled in hot-end)
1 Thermistor incl 2m wires (1 is pre-assembled in hot-end)
2
FELIXprinters electronics.
1
Fan 40x40x10mm
2
mini-ATX-seasonic, powersupply
1 Power Cable EU(optional)
1 Power Cable USA(optional)
1 Power Cable Australian(optional)
1
Power Cable British(optional)
1
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optosensor
3
motor nema 17
4
Kapton Foil heater, including thermistor, heater and wires
1
precrimped cables 3 threads
3
Shielded USB cable 1.8m
1
Mechanics
Hiwin lineair ball bearing set small
2 Hiwin lineair ball bearing set – large
1 pulley_motor_HTD
2 Toothbelt 1.5m
1
bearing 5x12x6
6
extruder_insert_piece
1
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Frame
40x40x400 profile, incl 2xM8
1
40x40x400 profile, incl 1xM8, 1xD7
2
40x40x400 profile, incl 3xD7
1
80x40x440 incl work
1
40x40 protective caps
4
80x40 protective caps
1
frame connector set
6
handle incl protective cap
1
hex sockethead bolt M8x16 buttonhead or M6x16 bolt depending
on handle type
2
t-slot nut - 8 ST M8 or M6 depending on handle type
2
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t-slot nut - 8 ST M4
15
dampning feet 6
strip for putting away cable pieces of 40 cm
2
y-axis mid-table support 20x10_profile + protective cap
1
Fabricated parts
Assembled Hot-end, containing
1
Hot_End_base_1.75mm
1
Hot_End_peek_isolation_1.75_v2
1
hot_end_heated_nozzle_1.75
1
table_2mm
1
Trapezium spindle rod 10x2, 330mm
1
Trapezium hexagon nut 10x2, brass
1
Others
tweezers
1
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Kapton tape for heated bed
1
cable ties, set of 100
1
cable spiral 1.25m 1
piece of selfadhesive tape 15cm
1
Piece of filament to start 5m
1
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