Felix printers Felix 2.0 Instruction Manual

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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Version1 – 24-August -2013

Copyright Information

This document contains proprietary information that is protected by copyright. No part of this document may be photocopied, reproduced, or

translated to another language without the prior written consent of FELIXrobotics BV.

FelixRobotics BV

Wapendragervlinder 17

3544DL Utrecht

Netherlands

Copyright © 2013 FELIXrobotics.

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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1 CO NT EN TS

1 CONTENTS 2

2 INTRODUCTION 3

3 REQUIRED TOOLSET 4

4 REQUIRED SKILLS 5

5 IMPORTANT NOTE 5

6 MODULE 1: FRAME (TIME: 10-30 MINUTES) 6

7 MODULE 2: Z-AXIS (TIME: 45-90 MIN.) 10

8 MODULE 3: THE EXTRUDER (TIME: 30-90 MIN.) 16

9 MODULE 3: THE X-AXIS (TIME: 30-60 MIN.) 22

10 MODULE 5: TABLE (TIME: 1-2 HOURS) 26

11 MODULE 6: Y-AXIS (TIME: 10-30 MIN.) 28

12 MODULE 7: ELECTRONICS (TIME: 2-4 HRS.) 33

12.1 MOUNT THE POWERSUPPLY. 35

12.2 GUIDE WIRES 37

12.3 CONNECT ALL WIRES TO THE ELECTRONICS BOARD. 39

13 FINISHING TOUCHES (TIME: 30-45 MIN.) 42

14 FINAL CHECKLIST TO ENSURE PROPER ASSEMBLY OF PRINTER (15MINS) 44

15 APPENDIX B: BOM FELIX 2.0 46

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2 IN TR OD UCTI ON

First of all thank you choosing FELIXprinters! To get your Felix printer up and running as fast

and painless as possible please follow this manual carefully. When things are unclear or if

you have any remarks or tips, please contact us at [e-mail]. We also

recommend looking on our forum and get yourself a forum account. You will benefit from

the ability to get downloadable and printable upgrades for your printer. Also it is a great

source to obtain more knowledge about your printer and printing in general.

Depending on your skills this kit will take approximately 4-12 hours to assemble and to

make your first print. Please read the manual carefully and follow it step by step. Please don’t

make any shortcuts unless you know what you’re doing. It’s better to spend a few minutes

extra on reading, than to wait a week for new parts.

The manual is build up as follows: Each module starts with a short introduction. After that a

Bill of Materials (BOM) is presented. The BOM doesn’t contain the small bolts and nuts,

because for the assembly of the printer the assortment box of bolts and nuts is required.

Further to not bloat the manual, a picture of each part is only displayed in the complete BOM

of the printer. This can be found in the Supplement at the end of the manual.

Before starting the build of your printer, it’s recommended to check if all parts are present by

comparing it with the bill of materials.

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3 RE QU IR ED TOOLSE T

The following tools are minimally required to assemble and use the Felix printer

Wrenches 7 and 13mm

Tweezers. (included in kit)

Nippers.

Caliper

Allen Key set. IMPORTANT: they

need to be preferably long and

have a round head at the end.
Pliers

Drill with a variable speed. When

plastic parts need to be drilled out,

it should be done with care

Level

Drill bits 4, 5mm

Hammer

Wire stripper, recommended

Detergent (Spirit, Acetone, Alcohol)

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4 RE QU IR ED SKI LL S

The following skills are required to put the Felix printer together:

- Basic soldering skills

- Skills to assemble a mechanical construction

- Technical insight

- Common sense

If you lack any of these skills or are unsure please get help from someone who can guide you or do this for you

5 IM PO RT ANT N OT E

To save paper the flow of the document is built up as follows:

Column 1

Column 2

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6 MO DU LE 1: FR AM E (TIM E: 10-30 MI NU TES)

Required for this module

Tools

- Allen key set

- Level reference surface

- Level

Parts

- Bag with description ‘frame module’.

- Aluminum beams.

The goal of this module is to create the frame on the right. Try to make everything as perpendicular as possible to each othe r. Let surfaces align as

good as possible. A good idea is to use a level tool.

BOM for frame module

Part

Amount

40x40x400 profile, incl 2xM8

1

40x40x400 profile, incl 1xM8, 1xD7

2

40x40x400 profile, incl 3xD7

1

80x40x440 incl work

1

40x40 protective caps

4

80x40 protective caps

1

frame connector set

6

handle incl protective cap

1

hex sockethead bolt M6x1(or M8, depends on the used

handle type)

2

t-slot nut - 8 ST M6 (or M8, depends on the used handle

type)

2

t-slot nut - 8 ST M4

15

dampning feet

6

strip for putting away cable pieces of 40 cm

2

Collect the parts shown above. Notice the holes in the beams.

To make it understandable, the beams are described as follows:

Beam 1: 40x40x400mm beam, has 3 drilled holes

Beam 2: 40x40x400mm beam, has 1 drilled hole and one thread at

the far end of the beam

Beam 3: 40x40x400mm beam, has 2 threads at the far ends.

Beam 4: 80x40x440mm beam has one drilled hole and one thread

at the bottom.

Some of the beams have a screw thread on the far ends of the beam.

These are present for the frame connectors.

1 2 3

4

Overview of frame
module

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Take beam 4 and 1. They must be connected as oriented in the

above picture.

Screw the frame connectors in the bottom of beam 4 as indicated in

the figure. Then slide beam 4 onto beam 1.

Slide beam 4 in position. On the side of beam 1 where the hex-key

is positioned there are two drilled holes. Tighten the frame

connectors by sticking the hex-key through the holes. Do not fix it

too tight because fine-tuning/leveling is needed later on.

Slide one of the two beams number 2 onto beam 1. Watch the

orientation of the drilled hole.

Turn the frame and fix beam 2 onto beam 1. Again not too tight.

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Take beam 3. Screw both frame connectors on the far-ends. Slide it

onto beam 2 and tighten it.

Take beam 2 again and screw the frame connector on it’s far end.

Then slid it on beam 3 as indicated on the picture.

Next try to slide it also on beam 4.

Thighten the screws, again not too tight.

Now it is time for fine-tuning. Try to get every beam as level as

possible. Also align the beams as good as p ossible. See an example

in the picture below

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When all the beams are aligned and leveled, it is time to firmly

tighten the frame connectors.

Get the protective caps and mount them carefully with a hammer

Put the damping feet underneath the frame near the edge

The handle should be mounted in the final stages of assembly.

Topview of frame

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7 MO DU LE 2: Z -A XI S (TIME: 45-90 MIN.)

Note: Most holes are designed to minimize the need for any post processing, like filing and drilling. Sometimes, however the bolts will not fit

smoothly and it therefore needs to be drilled out slightly. Required drill sizes can be 3, 4 and 5mm.

BOM Z-axis

Part description

Amount

Hiwin lineair ball bearing set -

HGW15CC1R300Z0

1
Trapezium spindle + bronze nut

1

motor nema 17

2

z-spindelmount bottom - v2

1

pulley_motor_HTD

1

z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2

1

z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0

1

z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0

1

optosensor

2

small bearing

4

z-axis-limitswitch_vane_v6_F2_0

1

Get the parts indicated in the list above.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart

of the linear bearing go off the rail.

There are small balls in there which

might fall out when the cart rolls of

the rail.

Place the frame on a table let the back face of the wide beam rest on

the table surface.

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Put three

t_slot nut - 8 ST M4

in the frame as indicated in the picture

above.

Put some tape on the far edge of the rail to prevent the cart from

sliding off.

First mount the linear guide loosely onto the frame with M4x20 bolts.

Then mount the

z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2

onto the frame,

indicated above with m4x20 bolts and important use small washers.

Put the motor in place and guide the wires through the hole

Before mounting the motor make sure the wires are orientated as

above

Mount a motor with the m3x8 CSK (countersunk head) bolts.

Motor wires

M4x20 bolt + small

Make sure part touches frame

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Start to align the z-axis guide. Push the bottom side against the

printed part. Measure the distance of the edge as indicated above. The

distance should be 12mm.

Mount the z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0 onto the cart with two

M5x16 bolts. Don’t forget to place the m5 washers. Mount a motor

onto the plastic part. IMPORTANT: match the orientation of the wires

according to the picture.

Mount the 2 bearings.

Order from right to left.

M4x25 bolt, 2x small bearing, small washer, plastic part, small washer,

M4 self locking nut.

Then insert 2x m4 selflocking nuts besides the just mounted rolls into

the plastic part as shown in the picture above.

12mm

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On the bottom insert the bronze nut into the plastic part.

Take the

z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0

part and slide it as indicated on

the picture above onto the already mounted plastic part.

As indicated screw on both sides m4x20 bolts into the part to clamp

the 2 big plastic parts together.

Mount the big part onto the cart of the linear bearing with M5x16

bolts, don’t forget the M5 washers!

Put a piece of the supplied double side tape underneath 2 opto -

sensors

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Mount the opto-sensors with the small Philips head screws.

(Depending on the delivered batch it could be bronze or stainless steel

screws)

Place the pulley upside down on the motorshaft. The distance of the

bottom of the pulley to the faceplate of the motor should be 1-2mm.

Take the z-axis_limitswitchvane and slide the nut into the slot. On top

screw in an m4x20 bolt. Don’t screw it all the way in, let the tip of the

bolt touch the flange as indicated in the picture.

Mount the z-axis-limitswitch vane with an m4x20 bolt + washer. The

bracket should be approx. 1cm from the top of the rail. This is the

adjusting mechanism for the z-axis height and will be covered later for

finetuning.

Distance pulley to motorface = 1-2mm
M4x20 bolt

M4 thin nut

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CAREFULLY Screw in the z-axis spindle from the top until it reaches

the motor and place the z-axis assembly in the middle. Make sure the

brass nut is inside the z-axis carrier assembly.

NOTE: It is important not to force the spindle in because when it is

not straight anymore it will affect print-quality.

Congratulations, you’ve finished the z-axis module.

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8 MO DU LE 3: TH E EX TRUDER (TI ME : 30- 90 MI N. )

Collect the following tools

- Allen key set

- Large file

- Drill 4mm

BOM Extruder

Part description

Amount

Extru_base_v9_F1_5

1

Extru_base_pt2_v5_F1_5

1

Extru_base_pt4_F1_5

1

Extru_arm_v5_F_1_5

1

Extru_airduct_v2

1

motor nema 17

1

Fan 40x40x10mm

2

small bearing

1

extruder_insert_piece

1

We need the above printed parts

We will create small sub assemblies and then join them together

Get the extu_arm part and clean out the hole with a 4mm drill as shown

above slowly.

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Insert a thin nut m4 as shown above. Before doing that clean the hole

out a little and insert the nut.

Mount parts onto the extruder arm:

From right to left. M4x20 bolt, 2x small washer, bearing, small washer,

plastic part, thin nut.

Mount the extruder wheel onto the motor with the little set -screw from

the bag of the extruder wheel. The set-screw should not stick out more

then 0.5mm, because it might then scrape the surrounding plastic

parts..

NOTE 1: sometimes the tolerances of the extruder wheel are tight. It is

very difficult to get it on the motor-axle. DO NOT force it on there, but

try to drill out the hole with a 5mm drill, until it fits smoothly on the

motor-shaft.

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Insert the m4 self locking nuts into the hexagon holes of the

extru_base_pt4, use an m4x20 bolt including washer as indicated

above. Make sure the wires match and also the orientation of the sticker

on the fan. The fan blows out air at the side of the sticker.

Take the extru_base_pt2 and drill out the hole with a 4mm drill as

shown above.

Mount the motor onto the extru_base_pt2 part displayed above and

match the orientation of the wires.

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Insert the extruder arm as shown above.

Mount the extruder arm onto the just mounted parts. An m4x40 bolt is

required. Use 4 large washers and 3 curved washer as shown in the

picture above. NOTE: Make sure the bolt goes

straight into the nut!

This bolt and washer combination will be used to put some tension on

filament which will be pushed down into the hot-end.

The cad drawing above displays how the sub-assembly should look like.

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Mount the fan and airduct with m4x20 bolts onto the extruder base.

Use m4 selflocking nuts and also use washers.The bolts don’t have to go

all the way through the self locking part of the nut.

NOTE: watch the orientation of the wires and also make sure the sticker

of the fan is facing downwards.

Slide the motor-subassembly onto the base.

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Mount the extru_base_pt4 as shown above.

Move hot-end into slot and make sure edge of hot-end touches the base

of the extruder.

Close the hinge door and screw in the m4x40 bolt. Make sure the hot-

end is not free to move, otherwise exert more force on the m4x40 bolt.

Guide the cables as shown above. Use the hole of the fan and a cable-tie

to fix the hot-end cables. Make sure it is done this way, it also gives

tension release to the hot-end cables.

Insert the belt tensioning part as shown above.

Congratulations you’ve finished the extruder module!

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9 MO DU LE 3: TH E X- AXIS (TIME: 30-60 MIN.)

Note: Don’t waste any belt. There is only one long belt in the kit, which must be divided in such a way that it is usable for the x and y-axis.

BOM x-axis

Part description

Amount

x-stage-motor-bracket_v6_F1_5

1

x-axis belt mount_v6_F1_5

1

Hiwin lineair ball bearing set

1

pulley_motor_HTD

1

motor nema 17

1

bearing 624

1

optosensor

1

IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart of the linear

bearing go off the rail. There are small balls in there

which might fall out when the cart rolls of the rail.

Put the frame upside down. Mount the hiwin rail loosely onto

the beam. Use 2 black t-slot nuts with m3 holes in them with m3x12

bolts to mount the rail. Also place a m4 t-slot nut as indicated in the

picture above, that one will be used for the x-axis belt mount part.

Pre-assemble the x-axis belt mount part. From right to left.

M4x40 bolt, small washer, plastic part, large washer, 2x small washer,

bearing, 2x small washer, large washer, plastic part.

IMPORTANT MOUNT THE BELT BEFORE MOUNTING THE BRACKET

SHOWN ABOVE: Guide the belt over the bearing as shown above

before mounting the sub-assembly to the frame. The top-bolt in the

picture is an m4x16 bolt, also use a washer.

Mount bolt loosely,
make sure plastic
doesn’t deform

Mount belt
before
mounting
bracket onto
frame.

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Position and fix the rail onto the frame. Let the rail touch the x-axis belt

mount part.

The distance along the rail and the edge of the beam should be 14mm.

This way it is centered perfectly over the slot of the beam.

Mount the x-axis motor bracket onto the frame with an M4x16 bolt,

use a small washer underneath the bolt-head.

IMPORTANT: The top of the plastic part should touch the top

aluminum beam as indicated in green above.

Mount the extruder assembly onto the cart of the linear guide, with 4

m3x6 countersunk bolts.

Guide the belt through the extruder carriage.

Belt guiding
channel

14mm

Top of plastic part should
touch aluminum beam.

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Mount a pulley onto the motor-shaft upside down. The distance

between the bottom of the pulley and the face of the motor should be

approx 0.5mm, this can be adjusted later on if required.

Turn the frame in its upright position and mount the motor onto the

bracket. Notice the orientation of the motor.

Guide the belt over the motor pulley back to the extruder carriage and

insert it in the toothed slot

Pull on the belt as indicated above and place the small tensioning

bracket in place when there is some tension on the belt. Place it just like

the picture above, that there is still some room to put more tension on

the bolt.

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When you turn the bolt clockwise the belt will get more tension.

Put some double sided tape on the opto-sensor and mount it onto the

bracket with the small philipshead screws.

It finally should look like the picture above. This however is a picture

from an older revision.

Cut off the remaining piece of belt. Only 2cm should stick out of the end

of the extruder base. Don’t waste any belt. There is only one long

belt in the kit, which must be divided in such a way that it is usable

for the x and y-axis.

You have now finished the x-axis!

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10 MOD UL E 5: TAB LE ( TIME: 1-2 HO UR S)

Important notes:
Work carefully; this will benefit the print quality. Make sure that you don’t warp the surface of the table by exerting too

much force /weight on the table

BOM table

Part description

Amount

table_2mm

1

Foil heater

4

The goal of this module is to get the foil heater onto the aluminum

plate. The picture above shows the back/bottom side of the plate.

For illustrative purposes the view above is the top-side. Where you

can see the countersunk hole.

Clean the backside of the plate with detergent.

SLOWLY and CAREFULLY remove the protective layer from the foil

heater. The adhesive layer should remain intact as good as possible.

Place the sticker without bubbels on the surface. By wiping it piece

by piece on the surface from the middele to the edge.

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It should finally look like this.

You are done with assembly of the table.

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11 MO DU LE 6: Y-AXIS (T IME: 10 -30 MIN.)

Required tools for this module

- Allen key set.

- wrench

BOM y-axis

Part description

Amount

y-stage bracket pt1_v6_F1_5

1

y-stage bracket pt2_v6_F1_5

1

y-stage bracket pt4_v4

1

20x10_aluminum profile + protective cap

1

t_slot_nut_5

1

Hiwin lineair ball bearing set

1

t_slot_nut_5_M3

2

t_slot_nut_8_M3

3

ISO 10642 - M3 x 6 --- 5N - CSK

5

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 8

2

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 12

4

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 16

10

Prevailing torque type hexagon nut ISO 7040 - M3

6

Washer ISO 7089 - M3

6

IMPORTANT: DO NOT let the cart

of the linear bearing go off the rail.

There are small balls in there which

might fall out when the cart rolls of

the rail.

Mount both brackets onto rail with m4x16 bolts and the m3 self

locking nuts. Don’t forget to place the washers

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Mount the small

y-stage bracket pt4_v4

onto the

y-stage bracket

pt2_v5_F1_5

. Use a m4x25 bolt and a m4 nut. This small part is

needed to tension the belt later on.

Get the small aluminum beam, first put the plastic cap on it, next to the

drilled hole. This can be done with a hammer.

Slide in the small t-slot nut on the other side, and mount this beam

onto one of the middle 2 holes of the y-axis rail with a M3x8 bolt.

Take the table assembly and place the m4x30 countersunk bolts as

indicated above on the three holes in the table. Put a curved washer,

large washer and fix those with a m4 thin nut.

On top of the just mounted washers place per each bolt, 5 large

washers and 4 curved washers.

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Now place the y-axis onto the table. When it doesn’t directly fit, there is

no need to file any parts. The three bolts can be slightly re-oriented.

This can be done to exert a little sideway force on the bolt. When it still

doesn’t fit, you could try to adjust the position of the small aluminum

beam.

After placement mount table bolts with an M4 thin nut. Use a small

washer underneath the m4 nuts at the plastic parts. Use a large washer

for the bolt at the small aluminum beam.

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Re-orientate the frame by placing the wide beam onto a table. Mount

the y-axis cart on the z-axis part with four M3x16 bolts with the m3

washers.

Mount the y-stage bracket pt4 onto the y-stage bracket pt6 with an

m4x25 bolt.

Now it is time to put the left over belt from the x-axis onto the y-axis.

Take the belt and cut it off straight.

Push the belt inside the bracket. Let the belt make contact with as

much teeth of the bracket as possible. Also push it as far as possible,

use a small allen key for that. If you have misplaced the belt or you

want to remove it, on top of the bracket is a small hole which can be

used to push out the belt with a small allen key.

Guide the belt over the pulley and 2 bearings as indicated above.

NOTE 1: The pictures are from the Felix 1.0, but the procedure is the

same.

NOTE 2: If you are doing this module before assembling the x -axis

module, do not waste unnecessary pieces of belt, because it is

needed for the X-axis!!

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Push the belt into the small printed clamp, while at the same time

tensioning the belt by hand. Important is that the small clamp is

touching the right edge of the bigger part as shown in the picture

above.

Next step is to tension the belt by turning the tensioning bolt. See

picture above. The belt should be tensioned when the distance

between the parts is approx. 1 to 2 mm.

Check if you applied enough tension by pushing the belt as displayed

above. It should feel firm.

Congratulations, you are done with the mechanics of the printer.

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12 MO DU LE 7: ELECT RO NIC S (TIME: 2-4 HR S. )

The goal of this module is to install all electric wires and to neatly put them away in the frame.

The required tools for this module are:

- Nippers

- Screwdriver, flat and philipshead

IMPORTANT: Make sure you are grounded and make sure you cannot create static

electricity.

Static electricity can kill the electronics board. To prevent it do the following:

- make sure you have no shoes or other isolating footwear on.

- Prevent touching any components on the board.

- When grabbing the electronics board grab it from the side

- Prevent very dry environment

- Do not wear any fleece or synthetic clothing.

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To make the printer work properly the schematics below must be matched. This chapter will guide you step by step to match the schematics above.

NOTE: It is important that the cables are placed as neatly as possible. Placing the wires in a messy way, can lead to EMC problems. The

electronics can become sensitive to outside influences and lead to unreliable printing. For instance when a lamp is switched on or off the

electronics could stop working until you reset it again.

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12 .1 MO UN T THE POW ER SUPP LY.

BOM Electronics

Part description

Amount

Electonics_case_F_2_0_v3_base

1

Electonics_case_F_2_0_v4_cap

1

Felixprinters electronics

1

mini-ATX-seasonic

1

Power Cable EU,USA,Australian or British

1

Pre-crimped cables 3 threads

3

USB cable 1.8m

1

Get the parts described in the table above.

Mount the electonics case base part onto powersupply with the

powersupply screws (short thick philips head screws). Slide the part on

the powersupply from the top.

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Mount the powersupply assembly onto the frame with m4x16 bolts

including washers.

Before mounting the electronics make sure the potmeters are set ok.

The pot-meters shown in the figure above regulate the power to the

motors.

The pot meters have a turning range. Fully counter clockwise is full

power to the stepper drivers. Fully clockwise is no -power to the

stepper drivers.

Be carefull with turning the potmeter to full power. Over time the

stepper drivers may become too hot. There is a self protection

mechanism in the chip which will temporarily turn the chip off to cool

itself down. It will protect itself, but this is off course unwanted

behavior as it will give intermittent movement during printing. Do the

following as a starting point. If this occurs, then lower the power.

Slide the electronics box in like displayed above.

40m

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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12 .2 GUI DE WIRES

Cut a piece of 20cm from the frame strips. Remove sharp edges, to

prevent damage to cables.

For your reference please put marks on the ends of

cables. During mounting it will become hard to

distinguish the cables when they reach the electronics

board.

Make a nice loop for the cables which come from the extruder. It must

be small/large enough that the cable doesn’t get stuck around the far

edge of the top beam, when the extruder is at its end position in x-

direction, but there should also not be too much tension.

Place the cables behind the just cut off strip.

Take the 3 wire cable and mount it onto the sensor as shown above.

Cut off 5cm and 12cm of strip and guide the cables as indicated above.

Mount the wires for the opto-sensors of the y and z-axis.

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Guide the cables of the z-axis table like indicated above. Make sure the

wires are mounted to the small aluminum beam as indicated above.

This provides tension relieve to the wires.

Make a loop as indicated above. Make sure that when moving the

table from one side to the loop is just long enough. Make use of cable

ties to better form the loop. They can easily be removed lat er on.

Guide the cables of the foil-heater along as shown above. Wrap a

cable-tie around it to again provide tension relieve on the cable.

Cut off a piece of 14 cm of frame strip.

Make a second loop and guide it as shown above. This loop is

necessary to let the table move up and down. Again make use of the

cable ties to form the loop.

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12 .3 CON NE CT ALL W IRES TO THE ELECTRON IC S

BOA RD .

We now will connect all the wires to the electronics board and make it

look like this

Step by step we will connect the wires to the board

All wires have to be screwed under a screw terminal. These are the

steps:

- Cut the wire to length,

- Strip the wire ends approx. 5mm, like shown above. Not too long

because that could potentially cause a short circuit with other wires.

TIP: It is recommended to use cable-ties to form nice cable loops and

get a nice wiring job. You can remove excessive ones on the go .

Mount the extruder motor like indicated above.

Do this for the rest of the motor wires. Note the cable ties.

Take the wires of the x-axis opto-sensor, strip the ends.

Mount it as indicated above.

Repeat the same for the other axes.

ExtZ Y

X

X

Y

Z

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Connect the thermistors(temperature sensor) of the heated bed(red

wires) and hot-end(black wires)

Connect the wires of the fans.

1. Switchable fan which blows air through the airduct of the

extruder.

2. Fan which is always on and cools the top part of the hot-

end.

IMPORTANT: match the color (polarity) of the wires.

Connect the heater wires of the bed and hot-end

1. Bed

2. Hot-end

Connect green and purple wire.

Green wire functions as an on-off switch for the printer.

The purple wire is the standby power for the logic of the electronics.

Then mount the yellow and black wires. In total there are 4 black and 4

yellow wires. Join the wires together as shown above and mount them

under the terminal blocks.

Bed
Hot-end

2

1

1

2

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Remove the cable-ties which hold the loops together. Now put the

cable spiral around it and cut to length.

Do this also for the z-axis loop and the x-axis loop.

Finally for the loop which enters the electronics cabinet.

Congratulations you have finished the electronics part and it is time for

some finishing touches.

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13 FI NI SHING TOUCHE S (T IM E: 30-45 MI N. )

1. Check all the bolts if they are tightened correctly.

2. Check if all the axes can move freely, without cables being jammed.

3. Put a little bit of oil or grease on the z-spindle, to make it run smoothly. Preferably a thicker kind of grease or oil, we use motor-oil.

4. When you have a printer with a shining through color, the opto-sensors of the axes might not work. To make them work you can put

one of the following things on the switching vanes:

a. Tippex
b. Non-shining through tape on the flange
c. Piece of aluminum foil

5. Make sure the z-axis limit switch is put it 5 cm below the top edge of the z-axis rail. This way you prevent the hot-end from hitting the table

before the switching vane triggers the opto sensor.

6. Mount the frame handle. Use the supplied M8 (or M6 frame nuts depends on the handle type delivered) and bolts to mount it. Place the

frame holder as close to the vertical frame beam as possible.

Prepare the heated bed.

In this step the goal is to put a layer of ta pe on the surface of the heated

bed. This layer makes sure the extruded plastic will correctly stick on

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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the bed.

Degrease/clean the bed with some detergent. We use spirit, but

alcohol, thinner, nail polish remover will work also.

Put strokes of the supplied tape on the heated bed. Try to do this with

as little bubbles and overlap of the strokes as possible. The better you

do this the nicer the bottom surface of the printed parts will be.

Fold the overhanging strokes of plastic around the edges. Then

afterwards clean the surface with detergent.

Supplied with the kit is kapton tape. After several tests with different

kinds of tape we recommend the following:

 Kapton tape. Very good for printing.

 PVC tape, has the same sticking quality as kapton tape, but

significantly lower costs. Downside is the durability of the

tape. Needs to be replaced more often.

 Painterstape. This is only recommended for very small

parts, with small contact surface to the bed. With PLA

filament this tapes sticks so well that the printed parts are

extremely hard to remove from the bed. To not damage the

build platform for certain parts we had to remove the parts

including tape. This tape is also a suitable tape for printing

with ABS.

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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14 FI NA L CHECKL IS T TO ENSURE PRO PE R ASS EMBLY OF P RINTER (1 5M IN S)

This checklist is used by our assembly team to ensure proper installation of the printer. Each check is of great importance and if all checked ok, it

ensures optimal operation of the machine.

No

Description

Check

1.

Check if belt tension for x and y-axis is ok

Tension must be high enough that :

you don’t feel the teeth of the belts when moving the axis by hand

You don’t see sideways movement of the belt when you turn direction.

2.

Check if belt of x-axis is parallel to top beam, when looking from the side. (If not parallel, pulley is probably

mounted too high on motor)

3.

Check if pulley’s are fixed ok with the setscrews

4.

Check if washers are placed underneath the nuts which hold the y-axis brackets onto the y-axis rail.

5.

Check if pulley’s are fixed ok with the setscrew

6.

Check if washers are placed on the y-axis brackets

7.

Check if 2 bolts fixing z-axis carriers bottom and top part together are firmly screwed. Also make sure M4 self-

locking nuts are used.

8.

Four screws fixing the linear y-rail onto z-axis carrier, must have rings and must be firmly screwed.

9.

Check if pulley guide bearings are fixed firmly and perpendicular to bracket.

10.

Check if washers are present under the 4 m3 bolts to mount y -axis rail. (Without washers the rail cannot be

fixed properly.)

11.

Check if rings are present to mount y-axis rail

12.

Make sure M4 x 25 bolds are used for tensioning mechanism of x and y axes

13.

Hot-end must be flat on extruder base part.

14.

Hot-end should be firmly in place, no movement/rocking is allowed after mounting.

The bolts that fix the swinging door onto the extruder base, must be tightened firmly to ensure play free hot-

end mounting.

The following checks can only be done after having done the first testprint.

15.

Extruder tensioning arm adjustment.

Tension must be strong enough that the filament is very hard to stop by hand. Not too tight that the filament is

squashed very wide.

16.

Table is aligned properly

17.

Flatness of table.

Table must be aligned according to the manual, if not sufficient try to bend the bed to correct possible

unflatness and redo alignment procedure.

18.

Finished testprint, test_thinwall at 100Micron, 20min

Result should be:

Smooth looking and feeling wall,

No large visible waves along vertical direction

No gaps,

No large vibration waves visible at sharp corners.

19.

Finished testprint, belt_guide, filament holder. 3-4hr

Must be clean, straight walls, no gaps.

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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Congratulations you are finished with the assembly of your FELIXprinter.

The next step is to install the software and make your first testprint.

Please download the user manual to continue.

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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15 AP PE ND IX: BOM FE LI X 2.0

Prod. Nr.

Bolts and screws

Amount

140 011.0

Set screw D-916 – M3 x 6-N -

6

140 012.0

Bolt D-7991 - M3 x 6 --- 6N - CSK

5

140 013.0

Bolt D-7991 - M3 x 8 --- 8N - CSK

18

140 014.0

Bolt D-7991 – M4 x 30 --- 30N - CSK

4

140 015.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 8

2

140 016.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 12

3

140 017.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 - M3 x 16

10

140 018.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M4 x 12

2

140 019.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M4 x 16

6

140 020.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M4 x 20

15

140 021.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M4 x 25

6

140 022.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M4 x 40

4

140 023.0

Hexagon socket head cap screw DIN 912 – M5 x 16

5

140 024.0

WasherD- 125A M3

10

140 025.0

WasherD- 125A M4

25

140 026.0

WasherD- 125A M5

5

140 027.0

Crinkeled washer

20

140 028.0

Corrosserie ring - M4 - large washer

25

140 029.0

Prevailing torque type hexagon nut DIN-985 - M3

6

140.031.0

Hexagon Thin Nut D-439B – M4

15

140.030.0

Prevailing torque type hexagon nut DIN 985 0 M4

12

140 032.0

Powersupply screw UNC 6/32 x ¼ Pozi steel

6

140 033.0

Penhead screw D-7981c 2,2 x 13 Phillips A2

8

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110 020.0

t_slot nut – 5 ST M3

2

110 21.0

t_slot nut – 8 ST M3

3

121 010.0

Printed Parts

121 011.0

x-stage-motor-bracket_v6_F2_0

1

121 012.0

x-axis belt mount_v6_F2_0

1

121 013.0

y-stage bracket pt1_v6_F1_5

1

121 014.0

y-stage bracket pt2_v6_F1_5

1

121 015.0

y-stage bracket pt4_v4

2

121 017.0

z_axis_carrier_pt1_v15_F2_0

1

121 018.0

z_axis_carrier_pt2_v11_F2_0

1

121 019.0

z-axis-motor-bracket_v10_F2

1

121 020.0

z-axis-limitswitch_vane_v6_F2_0

1

121 022.0

Extru_base_v10_F2_0

1

121 023.0

Extru_base_pt2_v7_F2_0

1

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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121 026.0

Extru_arm_v6_F_1_5

1

121 027.0

Extru_airduct_v2

1

121 024.0

Extru_base_pt4_V3_F2_0

1

121 028.0

Electonics_case_F_2_0_v3_base

1

121 029.0

Electonics_case_F_2_0_v4_cap

1

150 010.0

Electronics

150 013.0

Heater Cartidge incl 2m wires

1

150 014.0

Thermistor incl 2m

2

150 011.0

Electronics board - Felixprinters

1

150 025.0

Fan 40x40x10 with 1.5m wires, Sunon

2

150 024.0

Powersupply Flex-ATX- Seasonic

1

150 019.0

Power Cable EU

1

150 020.0

Power Cable USA

1

150 021.0

Power Cable AU

1

150 022.0

Power Cable UK

1

Assembly instruction manual FELIX 2.0 3d printer

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150 015.0

Opto sensor

3

150 026.0

motor nema 17

4

150 016.0

Kapton - Foil Heater

1

150 017.0

precrimped cables 3 threads

3

150 018.0

USB cable 1.8m 1

130 010.0

Mechanics

130 011.0

Hiwin lineair ball bearing set – MGN12H1R0300Z1HM

2

130 012.0

Hiwin lineair ball bearing set – HGW15CC1R300Z0

1

130 013.0

pulley_motor_HTD

2

130 014.0

Toothbelt HTD 3M 1.2m

1

130 015.0

Bearing 624 5x12x6

6

130 016.0

extruder_insert_piece

1

110 010.0

Frame

110 012.0

40x40x400 profile incl 2xM8

1

110 013.0

40x40x400 profile, incl 1xM8, 1xD7

2

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110 014.0

40x40x400 profile, incl 3xD7

1

110 011.0

80x40x440 incl work

1

110 015.0

40x40 protective caps

4

110 016.0

80x40 protective caps

1

110 017.0

frame connector set

6

110 019.0

Protective cap, handle

1

140 035.0

hex sockethead bolt M8x16 buttonhead

2

110 023.0 or

110 024.0

t-slot nut - 8 ST M8 or M6 depending on handle type

2

110 022.0

t-slot nut - 8 ST M4

15

110 025.0

dampning feet 6

110 026.0

strip for putting away cable pieces of 40 cm

2

110 027.0 and

110 028.0

y-axis mid-table support 20x10_profile +
protective cap

1

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Fabricated parts

Assembled Hot-end, containing

1

130 019.0

Hot_End_base_1.75mm_v2

1

130 021.0

Hot_End_peek_isolation_1.75_v3

1

130.020.0

hot_end_heated_nozzle_1.75_v4

1

130.022.0

Aluminum plate, table_2mm_F2_0

1

130 017.0

Trapezium spindle TR10x2mm 330mm

1

130 017.0

Trapezium hexagon nut TR10x2

1

170 010.0

Others

170 011.0

tweezers

1

170 012.0

Kapton tape for heated bed

1

170 013.0

cable ties, set of 100

1

170 014.0

cable spiral 1.25m 1

170 015.0

piece of selfadhesive tape 15cm

1

170 016.0

Piece of filament to start 5m

1