Fei Bao SU-27 Assembly Manual

FB Su-27

DISCLAIMER:

THIS IS NOT A TOY. This is a high-performance
miniature aircraft, capable of high speeds and damage to
life, limb, and property. The manufacturer and its
distributors cannot control how you assemble this model,
what equipment you use to fit it out, or how you fly it, and
can assume no liability whatsoever for any damages that
may occur when you fly your aircraft. By assembling this
model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless
the manufacturer and/or his agents from any and all torts
and liability associated with the use of this product.
Please inspect all parts before beginning assembly. If
any parts appear to be suspect, contact your dealer or the
manufacturer for repair or replacement BEFORE you
begin. Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are
the pilot in command and assume any and all

responsibility for the use of the model and any damages
that might occur by flying or attempting to fly this aircraft.
R/C model jets require a high level of skill in both their
assembly and their flying. If you do not feel confident in
either your building or flying skills, PLEASE seek
assistance from more experienced modelers. It is a wise
idea, no matter what level of skills you possess, to have a
second experienced modeler go over your installation
after assembly. A second set of eyes may spot a problem
you have missed. If you have not flown a model like this
before, it is HIGHLY recommended that you get an
experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden flight. Very
often, the first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical
until the aircraft is trimmed out, and having an
experienced pilot at the controls can make the difference
between a wrecked aircraft and once that enjoys many
hundreds of flights. Be sure to select a suitable field for
flying...take the time to find a large paved runway if at all
possible, especially for test flights, until you feel
comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass
fields.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

Keep this in mind as you proceed:
Look at EVERY assembly step you finish, and ask
yourself:

"Is this going to crash my airplane?"

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and this is a
high-performance aircraft that will be very intolerant of
sloppy assembly techniques. Even the smallest
component is important and can cause the loss of your

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airplane, so take the time to do things right. Or REdo
them if they are wrong. Careful work will result in a long­lasting plane that gives you years of pleasure, one loose
component could result in the complete loss of the aircraft
and all the components inside it, and someone can even
get hurt. So pause every once in a while when building it
and double-check your workmanship.

A. Introduction:

You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of
ARF technology. While there is not a lot of building to do,
there is enough to keep you busy for a few evenings.
Even if you have assembled maybe other ARF jets, we
highly recommend following our assembly sequence and
procedures anyway.
Chances are it will save you a lot of time, prevent you
from running down dead ends, and perhaps remind you
of a few small things that might end up saving your
aircraft.
We have tried to arrange a construction sequence that
will allow you to keep moving forward, rather than
standing around waiting for glue to dry before you can
proceed to the next step.
Just because the model is almost completely built does
not mean you can rush through the final assembly.
You need to employ fine craftsmanship every step of the
way, turbine models are critical. Keep this in mind with
everything you do, every part you install...look at the work
you just did, evaluate it critically, and ask yourself "is this
going to potentially crash my airplane?" If there is any

doubt about the work you have done, back up, and re-do
it properly.

B. Adhesives:

The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite
Hysol 9462. This is a very strong white epoxy that is
thixotropic. "Thixotropic" means it does not run at all, but
stays only where you put it. It is infinitely superior to
regular epoxy, even slow-setting epoxy, for our purposes,
because of this characteristic.
Regular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries,
taking it away from where it is supposed to be.
A good example is in the hinges...using regular epoxy, a
good portion of the glue will migrate down away from the
hinge into the inside of the wing as it dries, and you won't
even know it is happening. Hysol stays where you put it.
The downside of Hysol is it takes overnight to dry
properly, but we have tried to arrange things to keep you
busy while waiting for glue to dry.
We also highly recommend that you only use a proper
Hysol dispensing gun, and only the long-type mixing
nozzles.
The short nozzles do not mix this glue enough, and only a
thin nozzle and gun will let you fill the hinge and control
horn holes properly with glue, you can't do it mixing your
Hysol on a flat surface and trying to get the glue in the
proper place by a brush or stick.
You can buy a complete Hysol setup with a gun, nozzles,
and two cartridges of glue from your dealer for
approximately $60.

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Consider it a great investment, the glue is the best you
will use. One cartridge is plenty to assemble your aircraft.

C. WORKING WITH PNEUMATIC SYSTEMS:

The T45 uses pneumatic brakes and retracts. If you
follow a few tips, you should have very reliable, leak-free
operation. Neatness counts.
All airlines should be secured to the airframe to keep
them from flopping around or getting kinked. Use tie
wraps for this.
The other very important thing is to cut off the end of each
airline dead square before installing it on the nipple.
This is VITAL. You can either purchase a professional
tubing cutter from your dealer (they are approximately
$10), or you can make up a little jig to hold the airline and
keep a sharp, new razor blade perfectly upright as you
cut.
Either one works, just ensure that all ends of all airlines
are cut off dead square. Make sure all airlines are
pushed ALL THE WAY onto their nipples.
They should not need to be secured otherwise, but you
can add fine wire safety wraps if you like. Make sure all
left and right matching airlines are the same length,
particularly the brake lines, or you will get uneven
retraction or braking action.
It's worth taking the time to get everything pneumatic right
the first time, as having your landing gear fail to retract is
not THAT bad, but having it fail to deploy can really ruin
you day and the paint on the bottom of your model.

Sample Servo List:

Rudder: JR 3301 (2)
Flaps: JR 8611A (2)
Elevators: JR 8711 or equivalent (Use highest torque
servos available)
Nose Gear Steering: JR 8411 or JR 2721
Air and Brake Systems: As necessary

Parts List:

Forward Fuse with Component Boards and Nose Gear

•
Pitot Tubes (2)

•
Aft Fuse, Main Landing Gear

•
Parachute Stinger

•
Canopy

•
Cockpit Tub and Glare Shield

•
Main Upper Hatch with Speed Brake

•
Left Intake

•
Right Intake

•
Wings, Flaps

•
Vertical Stabs (2), Rudders (2)

•
Ventral Strakes (2)

•
Fuel Tanks

•
Pipes (2)

•
Air Kit

•
Hardware Kit

•

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Notes

These instructions were written based upon the
prototype kit from the Fei Bao factory. Please
note that the kit and components may have
undergone changes through the production
process. Center of Gravity and control surface
throws were confirmed as a good starting point
through limited flight testing, but it is important
that you contact your Fei Bao representative prior
to your first flight to obtain the most current
information on these important parameters.

Begin construction by prepping the airframe

Insert the stabs, wings and vertical stabs into
their respective mounts. Check each mount for
security, tightening bolts and nuts if necessary.

it is recommended that you run a bead of
Aeropoxy around the mounts to secure them
firmly in position on their formers.

Check all accessible areas for the integrity of
glue joints and add Aeropoxy if necessary. Pay
special attention to the formers that secure the
horizontal stab bearings, adding glue to make
sure they are firmly affixed to the fuselage.
Take care not to get any glue into the bearing
components.
Join fuselage halves and bolt securely in five
places.

If already assembled, remove the bypass
modules from the airframe (see photo). They
are attached by two bolts accessed through the
hatch on each side.
Remove the engine hatch covers, marking
them for side and orientation as you do so.
Using a hand pump and a short piece of tubing,
check each of the gear door air cylinders for
leaks. If they hold air under pressure, secure
the nuts and bolts attaching the cylinders to
the fuselage and doors with a small drop of
thin CA.

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Air systems

Remove the nose gear from the aircraft.
Using a Matchmaker or a receiver and your
transmitter, center the nose steering servo and
attach a heavy duty steering arm.
Bolt in the nose gear steering servo as shown
in the photo. Do not use the rubber mounts
and brass eyelets. Loctite the bolts.
While the nose gear is out, make sure there are
no kinks or bends in the air lines.
Check the security of all screws and C clamps
on the struts and retract units.

Option: If your nose and main gear were
attached to their mounting plates by wood
screws, you may opt to reattach them with cap
head bolts and blind nuts. If so, remove the
mains, drill and install blind nuts for all three
landing gear, and reinstall.

Once the nose gear is reinstalled, operate the
strut by hand and insure that the nose gear
door will close completely over the nose wheel
mud guard. If not, shim the retract unit with
washers or ply until the door closes.
It is recommended that you install your air
systems for doors, retracts, brakes and speed
brake on the removable board in the nose of
the aircraft. Remove the board, paint if
desired, and install servos and valves. Make
sure to allow clearance to the sides of the
board for the curvature of the nose section.

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The receiver may also be installed on this
board.
As the three main gear all retract forward, you
may wish to provide more air to each unit. To
accomplish this, set up the nose gear on one
air valve designed for large scale aircraft and
supply air to the mains from a second,
separate valve. Use separate air supplies for
each. Run separate lines to each main from
the valve ... do not “T” from a single supply.
Make sure to pull up the landing gear before
the aircraft picks up speed after liftoff.
As you position these components, make sure
to leave room for the cockpit installation.
You will need to supply sequencing for the
doors. On the full scale aircraft, all doors
remain open with the gear extended.
Run air lines to all the door cylinders, the
retracts, the brakes and the speed brake.
Hook up fill valves, air meters if used and
supply tanks.
Test the system for operation and leaks.
Adjust as necessary.

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Horizontal Stabilizers

Using a Matchmaker or receiver and
transmitter, center both horizontal stab servos.
Install the servo arms such that they are
matched as closely as possible for both servos.

Option: for added security, use metal servo
arms for this application. If you use a tapped
metal servo arm, you will need to replace the
clevis supplied with the kit with an appropriate
ball link. You can secure with a small amount
of CA for extra security. See photo.

Install servo into its mount, securing with four
screws. Do not use rubber mounts and brass
eyelets.
To keep the heat away from the servo during
engine operation, make a small shield that can
be bolted to the formers. In the prototype,
BVM heat insulation covered by aluminum tape
was used. Leave some space for air
circulation. See photo on following page.
Insert stab spars into control arms, using large
Delrin washer for spacing from fuselage. Hold
pressure against fuselage and tighten allen
bolts securely. Check for smooth operation and
minimal play.

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