FB Jets FEI BAO Assembly Manual

FEI BAO RAFALE

FEI BAO JETS

Rafale Assembly Manual

In collaboration with R/C Jet Models

Written By Rich Miller

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DISCLAIMER:

THIS IS NOT A TOY.

This is a high-performance miniature aircraft, capable of high speeds and damage to life, limb,
and property. The manufacturer and its distributors and author of this manual cannot control
how you assemble this model, what equipment you use to fit it out, or how you fly it, and can
assume no liability whatsoever for any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft. By
assembling this model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless the manufacturer
and/or his agents from any and all torts and liability associated with the use of this product.
Please inspect all parts before beginning assembly. If any part appears to be suspect, contact
your dealer or the manufacturer for repair or replacement BEFORE you begin.

Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are the pilot in command and assume any and all
responsibility for the use of the model and any damages that might occur by flying or attempting
to fly this aircraft.

R/C model jets require a high level of skill in both their assembly and their flying. If you do not
feel confident in either your building or flying skills, PLEASE seek assistance from more
experienced modelers. It is a wise idea, no matter what level of skills you possess, to have a
second experienced modeler go over your installation after assembly. A second set of eyes may
spot a problem you have missed. If you have not flown a model like this before, it is HIGHLY
recommended that you get an experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden flight. Very often, the
first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is trimmed out, and having an
experienced pilot at the controls can make the difference between a wrecked aircraft and once
that enjoys many hundreds of flights. Be sure to select a suitable field for flying...take the time
to find a large paved runway if at all possible, especially for test flights, until you feel comfortable
getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass fields.

Note: In the USA it is mandatory that you belong to the Academy of Model Aeronautics and hold
a valid Turbine Waiver, please check the local governing rules for operation of R/C model jets of
your location before flying.

Congratulations on your purchase of the Fei Bao Rafale.

Introduction:

You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of ARF technology. While there is not a lot of
building to do, there is enough to keep you busy for a few evenings. Even if you have assembled
other ARF jets, we highly recommend following our assembly sequence and procedures.

It was the intent of the author to arrange the construction sequence of this manual in a sequence that
will allow you to move forward. Please remember that just because the model is almost completely
built it does not mean that you can rush through the assembly. It is this authors recommendation that
all factory installed systems i.e. fuel, retracts, and doors be inspected for any possible defects, loose
parts etc. and all fasteners should be secured with Loctite.

Before you begin:

Keep this in mind as you proceed

Look at EVERY assembly step you finish, and ask yourself:

“Is this going to crash my airplane?”

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A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and this is a high-performance aircraft that will be
very intolerant of sloppy assembly techniques. Even the smallest component is important and
can cause the loss of your airplane, so take the time to do things right, or redo them if they are
wrong. Careful work will result in a long lasting plane that will give you years of pleasure, one
loose component could resulting the complete loss of the aircraft and all of the component
inside of it, additionally someone could even get hurt. So please pause every once in a while
when building and double check your workmanship.

• Clean and inspect all parts. Inventory them against the parts list at the end of the manual
and notify the kit supplier of any missing components as soon as possible.

• If the paint scheme you have selected is glossy, it is recommended that you apply a coat of
wax. This will help resist dirt, stains and fingerprints during construction, and will provide
some limited protection against errant glue.

• Vacuum out the remnants of packing materials that remain in the fuselage.

Adhesives:

The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite Hysol 9462. This is very strong white epoxy
that is thixotropic. “Thixotropic” means it does not run at all, but stays only where you put it. It is
infinitely superior to regular epoxy, event slow setting epoxy, for our purposes, because of this
characteristic. Regular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries, taking it away from where it is
supposed to be. The downside of Hysol is it takes overnight to dry properly. It is recommended that
you only use a proper Hysol dispensing gun and only the long-type mixing nozzles.

Pneumatic Systems:

Pneumatic retracts typically are the number one maintenance issue with most models however with
proper installation procedures and preventive maintenance this need not be the case. All Fei Bao
jets uses pneumatic gear doors, retracts and brakes. If you follow a few tips you should have a very
reliable leak free operation. Factory installed systems should be inspected for kinked lines, proper
insertion of hoses on fittings and the hose routings should be neat and secure. Take special
precautions to route hoses away from moving gear parts and hot engine areas. It is recommended
that the factory valves, cylinders and brakes be dissembled, cleaned and lubed with a good o-ring
lubricant to ensure reliable operation.

If installing your own pneumatic components it is important to make all cuts in the pneumatic tubing
dead square before installing on the nipples, also make sure that the lines are pushed all of the way
onto the nipples. They should not need to be secured otherwise however you can add fine safety
wire for extra security.

Model Specifications:

Scale: 1/7.5
Length: 80 3/4" (2050 mm)
Wingspan: 56 3/4"(1440 mm)
CG Location 5 1/8” (130 mm) from LE of Wing
Dry Weight: 26-29 lbs (12 Kg to 13 Kg) – Depending if armament is installed
Thrust Class: 22 to 30 lbs (10 to 13.6 Kg)
Servos for Flight Surfaces & Steering (5)
Servos for pneumatic controls (4 or pneumatic valves)
Fuel Capacity Right and Left 33.8 oz ea (1000 ml ea)
Center Tank 24.5 oz (725 ml)
92 oz Total (2725 ml)
Main Tire Diameter 3.34” (85 mm)
Nose Tire Diameter 2.21” (56 mm)
Brakes – Double O-Ring 1.4” dia. (35.5 mm)

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Full Scale Specifications:

Length: 50.20ft (15.30m)
Width: 35.76ft (10.90m)
Height: 17.52ft (5.34m)
Performance:
Max Speed: 1,320mph (2,125kmh; 1,147kts)
Max Range: 1,150miles (1,850km)
Climb Rate: Not Available
Ceiling: 55,118ft (16,800m; 10.4miles)
Hard points: 14 (including two wingtip mounts)
Empty Weight: 19,974lbs (9,060kg)
MTOW: 47,399lbs (21,500kg)
Engine(s): 2 x SNECMA M88-2 augmented turbofan engines with afterburning generating
19,555lbs of thrust.

Parts List:

Major components

 Fuselage Nose Section
 Fuselage aft section
 Canopy
 Cockpit Tub
 Forward and Aft Equipment tray
 Hatch
 Bypass
 Right and Left Wing panels
 Right and Left Elevons
 Rudder
 Vertical Stabilizer
 Right and Left Canard
 Two Tail Cones
 Right and Left Fuel Tanks
 Center Tank
 Refueling Probe
 Raised Servo Hatch (Wing Servos)
 Two Elevon linkage covers
 Hinges / Linkages / Hardware kit
 Air Kit
 Gear Doors and Cylinders factor installed
 Factory installed Retracts

Additional Equipment:

While the kit is comprehensive, there are additional parts required as follows:

Recommended Engine Thrust 22 to 30 Lbs

Possibilities include:

• Jet Central Falcon or Super Eagle

• Jet Cat P-80 or P120

• Wren XL

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Recommended Servo List (JR)

• Canard: (1) 8611a

• Elevons: (2)

• Rudder: (1) 3421

• Nose Steering: (1) 2721

• Retracts: (1) 351 or equivalent

• Brakes: (1) 351 or equivalent

Recommended Servo List (Hi-Tec)

• Canard: (1) HS-645MG or HS-5645MG

• Elevons: (2) HS-5955TG (new Number is HS-7955TG)

• Rudder: (1) HS-245MG or HS-5245MG

• Nose Steering: (1) HS-645MG or HS-5645MG

• Retract Valve: (1) HS-225 or equivalent

• Gear Doors (2) HS-225 or equivalent

• Brakes: (1) HS-225 or equivalent

Other Parts

• Bifurcated Pipe

• Pull-Pull Steering Cable

• BVM UAT or equivalent (optional / but highly recommend)

• ½ inch Velcro straps to secure fuel tanks, receiver, air tanks, ECU

• Wire twist tie (optional)

• Blue Loctite

• Glues: Loctite Hysol 9462, Thin CA, 15 minute epoxy

• Electronic gear sequencer(RCBEE from RC Jet Models or equivalent)

• Brake valve or Electronic Actuator

• Batteries, regulator and switch

• Servo extensions (length may vary, depending on receiver placement)

• Ordinance Package

Construction

The order of construction may be changed to suit your personal preference
Note: any fiberglass surface on the inside of the airframe that requires components to be
bonded should be cleaned with solvent to make sure that any mold release agent is removed
and should be scuffed with medium grit sandpaper to promote adhesion prior to gluing.

Step 1: Wings – Hinging of Elevons and Servo Installation

Note: First production kits were supplied with only three hinge points in each Elevon section,

this was found to be insufficient for this large of surface, it is imperative that if you have a
version that is only supplied with three hinges you must add two more hinge points as shown in
Photo 1.

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Photo 1

There is no structure for the hinge points to mount to in the Elevon section therefore hardwood
balsa sections must be glued into place and then drilled for the hinge points as show in photos
2 and 3.

 Start by making the two extra holes in the leading edge of the surface; the holes are

positioned centered between the existing holes. See Photos 1

 Fabricate two filler blocks for each hole, photo 2, the filler blocks are coated with adhesive

and then inserted into the hole that was created in the surface, photo 3, use an x-acto knife
to maneuver the parts around once inserted into the hole. The two blocks should be
positioned so that the joint that forms between then is centered in the cutout hole in the
leading edge.

 After the adhesive is fully cured, drill the hole required for the hinge point photo 4, I used

Robart large hinge points for the extra hinges required.

 Now all hinge points can be glued into the surface, it is recommended to used some oil on

the hinge pin to make sure that adhesive does not work its way in and cause a bind, see
photo 5. Make absolutely sure that oil does not get on the part of the hinge that will be
glued; any stray oil can be removed with solvent.

 After all hinge point are inserted, go back and check the depth of insertion and alignment of

the hinges before the adhesive cures. Make sure adhesive did nit get into the hinge pin
locations. Any extra adhesive should be removed; a toothpick works well for getting into
tight spots.

Note: Nail polish remover works well as a solvent to remove pre-cured adhesive and it did not
attack the paint on this particular model, see photo 6; however, before any solvent is used it
should be tested on an inconspicuous area of the paint.

Photo 2

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Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5

Photo 6

 Next the position of the new hinges needs to be transferred to the trailing edge of the wing.
 Drill the two additional holes for the new hinge locations. As in the case of the surfaces

there is no structure in the TE of the wing at the new hinge point locations. A hard piece of
balsa to act as a doubler can be inserted through the servo bay cut out for the one hinge
point location. The additional hinge location will require the TE of the wing to be drilled to fit
a dowel rod that will hold the hinge. The rod should be a bit longer that the hinge point
section to be glued.

 Glue in the dowel rod and let the adhesive fully cure before drilling the hinge point hole.
 Next the control horns need to be positioned and the slot cut out for its mounting. Start by

inserting the surface into the wing. I used masking tape on the area of the surface that will
require the slot to be cut. See Photo 7

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 Position your servo in the wing pocket and then take a straight edge and create the line from

the servo arm to the horn location on the surface. Mark the horn position on the tape that is
on the surface, this will now serve as the slot guide.

 When cutting the slot into the surface great care should be taken as not to cut into the LE

structure of the surface, cutting the LE material could cause a failure of the surface in flight.

 After creating the slot the horn can be glued in, before doing so make sure to take some

sand paper and rough up the area on the horn where the adhesive will make contact.

 A uniform adhesive fillet should be created around the control horn and the control surface,

any extra adhesive should be removed; a toothpick works well for getting into tight spots.

Photo 7

 Trial fit the Elevon into the wing panel, see photo 8, the surface should be inserted so free

movement is achieved in both direction and no binding exists between the fiberglass TE
extensions and the surface. If travel is limited by the TE of the wing then using a long
sanding bar sand the TE fiberglass until free movement is achieve to the recommend limits
of movement, i.e. elevator should have 25 to 30 mm (1” to 1 3/16”) of up movement in both
directions.

 The completed Elevon can be glued into the wing panel using the same precautions as

mentioned above for keeping the adhesive out of the hinge points.

 Before adhesive cures make sure to double check the alignment and movement of the

Elevon and adjust as necessary.

Photo 8

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Wing Servo Mounting:

The production kit that was used for this manual had the servo bay cut outs position far back
towards the TE of the wing; this creates a height issue when using standard sized servos and
the stock flat hatches; see Photo 9.

Photo 9

The kit was also supplied with extra raised hatches to help solve this issue. I will cover the
servo installation with the raised hatches in this manual; however, for the model that I built I
devised a method to utilize the flat hatches. This required structural modifications not covered in
this manual (see Photo 10 for preview) and is covered in detail on the build thread that I started
on RC Universe, see the following thread for the details:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8458710/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

A brief synopsis of the modifications:

 Cut out section of wing skin
 Remove factory servo mounting structure
 Cut out new servo mounting structure from drawing and glue into place
 Rotate section of wing skin 180 degrees and re-glue into place

Factory Supplied Servo Bay:

Photo 10

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Note: If you kit is supplied with the factory positioned servo bays located back towards the TE
of the wing (see Photo 11) then the plywood mounts may require some modifications in order to
mount the servo of your choice. Due to the large surface of the Elevon it is recommended to
use a standard size digital servo with metal gears which will supply plenty of reserve torque.

Photo 11

 Remove the factory supplied flat servo cover and put aside, locate raised covers and trial fit

into openings, if required trim to fit.

 Attach the L brackets to the servos. The servos will face in opposite directions when

installed with the spline end towards the TE of the wing.
Note: It is the authors practice not to use the rubber grommets supplied with the servo for
mounting of servos in jet airframes as vibrations are not an issue.

 Using your receiver or servo driver, find servo neutral and attach the heavy-duty servo arm, I

use the aluminum arms supplied with the Hi-Tec HS 5955TG servos that were used.

 Pull the servos through the wing to the roots, the stock leads should be of sufficient length;

label the servo wires for Elevons.

 Position the servos onto the mounting tabs. You may also need to trim the lip of the servo

well slightly to provide clearance for the aileron servo arm.

 Using a countersinking tool create a countersink area large enough to fit the flat head screw

in the L brackets, see Photo 12

Photo 12

 Using great care not to pierce through the top surface of the wing, drill and screw the servos

in place using appropriate flat head type wood screws.

 Locate/mark & cut slot position in hatch for the servo arms and then install hatch, see photo

13.

 Assemble the Elevon linkage; you may need to enlarge the hole in the control horn with a

7/64 inch drill for the connecting bolt. Do not over tighten this bolt as the rod will bind as the
Elevon is actuated.

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 Locate and prepare the area on the wing for the mounting blocks for the linkage covers, see

photo 13, glue blocks in place; after the adhesive cures mount linkage covers with small
wood screws.

Photo 13

 Repeat procedure for the other wing. Be sure to keep the linkage lengths equal.

Step 2A: Vertical Fin and Rudder

This manual will provide two options for mounting the rudder servo, the first one will be the
factory intended method (concealed), and the second will be the author’s alternative method.

The factory intended method for installing the rudder servo features a hidden linkage design; the
servo will be installed in aft section of the fuselage to give the Rafale a scale look. This method
requires the use of a pin and socket arrangement to transfer the motion from the servo arm to
the rudder. The hardware kit supplied has the components needed for this installation if the
builder chooses. The following factory photos detail the placement of the required holes and
components.

Photo 14

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)

1.18” (30 mm

Pin that will be glued
into the above hole, the
small end faces down,
insert pin up to the

Photo 15

shoulder.

 Start by gluing the three hinge points to the fin, after they have cured then glue the hinge

points to the rudder, see photo 14. Follow the same steps as in the Elevon hinging
procedure.

 Locate the drive pin position in the rudder assembly, drill the hole in the location shown in

photo 15, and then use adhesive to secure the pin and let the adhesive fully cure.

 To find the correct placement of the slot temporally position the rudder and fin assembly

onto the fuselage and trace the arc of the rudder mounted pin onto the top of the fuselage,
masking tape applied to the fuselage in the area that the marking is needed works well.

 Cut the slot in the fuselage as shown in photo 16.

Trace Slot
position using
rudder and the
pin as a guide,
then cut slot

Photo 16

Note: It is recommended that a standard sized servo be use for this method.

 Prepare the heavy duty servo arm by mounting the cup assembly as shown in photo 17.
 Mount The L brackets to the servo; the L brackets should be on the right side of the servo

with the spline end of the servo towards the front of the airframe as shown in photo 20.

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Note: It is the authors practice not to use the rubber grommets as supplied with the servo for
mounting servos in jet airframes as vibrations are not an issue.

 Align the servo shaft by using your receiver or servo driver to find the servos neutral point

and then attach the heavy-duty servo arm with the arm placed as shown in Photo 17.

Photo 17

Cup assembly mounted
to heavy duty servo

 Mount the rudder servo to the bulkhead position as shown in photo 19 & 20 using socket

headed wood screws; the arm will be facing towards the rear of the fin. Verify that the cup
receptacle follows the arched cutout in the fuselage.
Hint: a ratchet type angled Allen driver works well in confined spaces, see photo 18.

Photo 18

Photo 19

Mount servo on this
side of former

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Photo 20

Photo 21

 Check for free movement of the rudder, insert the vertical fin into fuselage and verify

operation using your receiver or a servo driver, see photo 21.

 If the rudder movement is satisfactory then permanently mount fin to fuselage by tightening

the rear clamping bolt and inserting the front pin bolt and washer, see photos 22 & 23.

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Fin Clamp Bolt Hole

Photo 22

Photo 23

STEP 2B: Alternate Vertical Fin Servo Mounting Method

The alternate method for installing the rudder servo is directly in the vertical fin, this method
provides for the use of a traditional linkage arrangement. The advantage of this system is
increase rudder deflection and less chance of surface flutter.

 The cut out in bottom of fin measures ¾” x 1 7/8”, cut slot as shown, see photo 24.

Photo 24

 From scrap wood fabricate a mock-up of the servo top case; this will serve as a fixture for

locating the servo mounting blocks. See photo 25 & 26 – the servo used for the subject of
this manual was a HiTec HS-245.
Material Servo Blocks:
Front 3/8” sq x 1”
Rear 3/8” x 1/4” x 1”

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Blocks that will be glued into place

Photo 25

Photo 26

 After prepping the fin, make sure to scuff the inner surface with medium grit sand paper,

glue in the mock up servo fixture with the mounting blocks as shown in photo 27. Make sure
not to get glue on the mock up servo fixture or it will be difficult to remove later.

 After the adhesive has cured on the mounting blocks remove the mock up servo fixture.

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Photo 27

After adhesive is dry remove fixture. The servo installs with the
top of the servo mounting tabs making contact with the servo
rails, if the servo has reinforcement on the top tab it may need to
be removed so the servo will sit flush on the mounts. The servo
spline faces the front of fin.

 Layout the locations for the servo arm cut out and control horn as shown in photo 28

Layout hole positions

Photo 28

 Using your receiver or servo cycler power up the servo and set it at neutral. Attach the

control arm at a vertical position. Mount servo in fin as shown in photo 27. The slot may
need to be enlarged in size slightly with a small file if the servo arm binds.

 Secure control horn with adhesive and let cure.
 Construct linkage as shown in photo 29 &30.

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