FB Jets F16 Falcon Assembly Manual

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

FB Jets/ Feibao

F16 Falcon Assembly Manual

Written by Tyson Dodd in Collaboration with Fei Bao Jets

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

DISCLAIMER

THIS IS NOT A TOY. This is a high-performance miniature aircraft, capable of high speeds and
damage to life, limb, and property. The manufacturer and its distributors cannot control how you
assemble this model, what equipment you use to fit it out, or how you fly it, and can assume no
liability whatsoever for any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft. By assembling this
model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless the manufacturer and/or his agents
from any and all torts and liability associated with the use of this product. Please inspect all parts
before beginning assembly.

If any parts appear to be suspect, contact your dealer or the manufacturer for repair or
replacement BEFORE you begin. Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are the pilot in
command and assume any and all responsibility for the use of the model and any damages that
might occur by flying or attempting to fly this aircraft. R/C model jets require a high level of skill in
both their assembly and their flying. If you do not feel confident in either your building or flying skills,
PLEASE seek assistance from more experienced modellers. It is a wise idea, no matter what level of
skills you possess, to have a second experienced modeller go over your installation after assembly.
A second set of eyes may spot a problem you have missed. If you have not flown a model like this
before, it is HIGHLY recommended that you get an experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden
flight. Very often, the first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is trimmed out,
and having an experienced pilot at the controls can make the difference between a wrecked
aircraft and once that enjoys many hundreds of flights. Be sure to select a suitable field for
flying...take the time to find a large paved runway if at all possible, especially for test flights, until
you feel comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass fields.

Before you begin keep this in mind as you proceed:

Look at EVERY assembly step you finish, and ask yourself:

"Is this going to crash my airplane?" A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and this is a high
performance aircraft that will be very intolerant of sloppy assembly techniques. Even the smallest
component is important and can cause the loss of your airplane, so take the time to do things right.
Or redo them if they are wrong. Careful work will result in a long lasting plane that gives you years
of pleasure, one loose component could result in the complete loss of the aircraft and all the
components inside it, and someone can even get hurt. So pause every once in a while when
building it and double-check your workmanship.

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

Introduction

You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of ARF technology and factory testing.
While there is not a lot of building to do in comparison to traditional modelling techniques, there is
enough to keep you busy for a few evenings. Even if you have assembled maybe other ARF jets,
we highly recommend following our assembly sequence and procedures anyway. Chances are it
will save you a lot of time or having to redo sections given some specific sequences and will
prevent you from running down dead ends, and perhaps remind you of a few small things that
might end up saving your aircraft.

I have assembled this manual to try and keep things moving wile you are awaiting for glue to dry
before you can proceed to the next step. Just because the model is almost completely built does
not mean you can rush through the final assembly. This is still an airframe that required minor
assembly and general complete building techniques. You need to employ fine craftsmanship
every step of the way, turbine models are critical. Keep this in mind with everything you do, every
part you install...look at the work you just did, evaluate it critically, and ask yourself "is this going to
potentially crash my airplane? I continually ask myself during the building of any jet and if there is
any doubt about the work you have done, please back up, and re-do it properly. We have
included as many pictures as possible to give you an idea of the ultimate location of components
within the airframe you minimise any balance work for perfect CG.

Adhesives

The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite Hysol 9462. This is a very strong white epoxy
that is thixotropic. "Thixotropic" means it does not run at all, but stays only where you put it. It is
infinitely superior to regular epoxy, even slow-setting epoxy, for our purposes, because of this
characteristic. Regular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries, taking it away from where it is
supposed to be. A good example is in the hinges...using regular epoxy, a good portion of the glue
will migrate down away from the hinge into the inside of the wing as it dries, and you won't even
know it is happening. Hysol stays where you put it. The downside of Hysol is it takes overnight to dry
properly, but we have tried to arrange things to keep you busy while waiting for glue to dry.

We also highly recommend that you only use a proper Hysol dispensing gun, and only the long­type mixing nozzles. The short nozzles do not mix this glue enough, and only a thin nozzle and gun
will let you fill the hinge and control horn holes properly with glue, you can't do it mixing your Hysol
on a flat surface and trying to get the glue in the proper place by a brush or stick.
You can buy a complete Hysol setup with a gun, nozzles, and two cartridges of glue from your
dealer for approximately $60. Consider it a great investment, the glue is the best you can use to
finish you kits from FB Jets.

One cartridge should be plenty to assemble your F16, however depending on how you prefer your
setup, it is a good idea to have spare available.

Working with pneumatic systems F16 uses pneumatic brakes and retracts. If you follow a few tips,
you should have very reliable, leak-free operation. Neatness counts. All airlines should be secured
to the airframe to keep them from flopping around or getting kinked. Use tie wraps for this.
The other very important thing is to cut off the end of each airline dead square before installing it
on the nipple. This is VITAL. You can either purchase a professional tubing cutter from your dealer
(they are approximately $10), or you can make up a little jig to hold the airline and keep a sharp,
new razor blade perfectly upright as you cut. Either one works, just ensure that all ends of all airlines
are cut off dead square. Make sure all airlines are pushed ALL THE WAY onto their nipples. They
should not need to be secured otherwise, but you can add fine wire safety wraps if you like. Make
sure all left and right matching airlines are the same length, particularly the brake lines, or you will

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

get uneven retraction or braking action. It's worth taking the time to get everything pneumatic
right the first time, as having your landing gear fail to retract is not THAT bad, but having it fail to
deploy can really ruin you day and the paint on the bottom of your model.

Construction

Preliminary steps

The following setup are recommended by FB jets for all kits that they manufacture and request the
modeller to conduct these quick and simple steps to not only make your build easier, but cleaner.

• Clean and inspect all parts. Inventory them against the parts list at the end of the manual
and notify the kit supplier of any missing components as soon as possible.

• If the paint scheme you have selected is glossy, it is recommended that you apply a coat
of wax. This will help resist dirt, stains and fingerprints during construction, and will provide
some limited protection against errant glue.

• Vacuum out the remnants of packing materials that remain in the fuselage.

While the kit is comprehensive, there are additional parts required, as follows:

• Recommended Servo List (JR)

• Elevators: (2) 8611a

• Aileron: (2) 8611a

• Rudder: (1) 8411

• Nose Steering: (1) 8611a

• Retracts: depends on retract and door solution selected (a 5 function valve can be utilised

on this aircraft)

• Brakes: (1) 351 or equivalent, or an electronic brake unit in a combination unit

• The abovementioned servo list is idea, you will note 8911 have been used through this

model though as this is what I had available at the time.

Other Parts

• Intairco UAT

• Fuel tank vent bulkhead fitting

• Festo fuel shutoff valve *2

• Wire twist tie (optional)

• Blue Loctite

• Red Loctite

• Glues: Thin CA, 5 minute epoxy, 30 minute epoxy, Hysol,

• Electronic gear sequencer, I have used a 5 function unit for the retracts, doors and brakes

• Or Brake valve

• Batteries, regulator and switch

• Matchboxes, Powerbox, Smartfly EQ10 or Spectrum Power Safe (I have utilised AR9200 for

this build)

• Servo extensions (length may vary, depending on receiver placement)

General Construction Notes:
The order of construction may be changed to suit your personal preference; however, the model is
more easily worked in a tight space if work is completed on each fuselage section before they are
joined. The tail surfaces must be attached before the aft fuse is joined to the forward fuse, as the
pipe must be in place during this step and it blocks access for wiring.

The retract system doors operate in two different ways. The main gear doors and the large nose
gear door open, the landing gear cycle either up or down, and the doors close again. For this

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

action, you will need two separate valves with a sequencer or precision dual function units, I have
used the Fly Eagle 5 function unit for this build to conserve space,

You will likely need to match twin rudder and twin elevator servos for this model
This may be accomplished with servo reversing “Y” harnesses, JR Matchboxes, the Smartfly EQ10, a
Champion Powerbox or equivalent. I have utilised a JR Match box for simplicity in this build.

Step 1: Check Forward Fuselage

• Remove the fuel tanks from the fuselage.

• Also remove the forward component boards. Now would be a good time to put a coat of

paint on these parts if you would like to protect the wood surfaces.

• Vacuum and thoroughly clean the fuselage completely including light sanding on the
mould joins to ensure there are no fibreglass burrs. These are painful if they “bite” you
during building and could potentially cause an air leak to tubing or damages to servo wires
etc.

• If the nose gear was installed at the factory with bolts and lock washers, check these for
security now. I also recommend checking the functioning of the nose gear now with a
hand pump. Make sure the rotation at extension and retraction of the nose wheel is
smooth before final installation. The Nose steering however needs to be set up before final
installation.

• Once the nose gear and servo is done, install but place a very small dab of thin CA into the
screw hole first. A small toothpick helps limit the amount of glue applied if you don’t have
limiting tip on you CA bottle.

• Check the nuts and connections of the gear doors. If required place a small amount of
thick CA on the nuts to secure.

• Repeat this step for the three nuts that attach the door cylinders to their respective
mounting blocks.

• Check all door hinges for security.

• Newer kits have carbon fibre reinforcement in the nose section.

• Run a bead of hysol down the sides of the three nose formers to reinforce the joint with the

fuselage side if you feel necessary.

Step 2: Prepping the Fuel System

Disassemble and inspect the tank cap hardware. The process used to cut the tubes may leave
behind a rim that constricts fuel flow and could result in excess tank pressure and leakage. Given
the use of three tanks be sure to pressure check and fill prior to installation in your model. Every
care is taken at construction, however sometimes a leak may occur. Checking this prior to
installation will save cleaning and time for pulling the tanks back out.

• Loosen the Philips head screw and remove the stopper assembly from the tank.

• Use a small, round Perma-Grit rat tail file or a knife to remove the excess metal. You will

need to inspect the ends of all tubes.

• When finished, make sure to blow out the metal fragments and clean up any sharp edges.

• While the components are apart, check the Tygon pickup line for equal lengths in both

saddle tanks. They should be long enough to reach the back of the tanks without being so
long as to restrict their ability to move to the top of the tank when the aircraft is inverted.
Allow a small amount of play to allow the tubes to stretch slightly over time.

• You should also notch the vent tube with a small file to provide for continued air flow should
the tube come into contact with the top of the tank.

• Make sure the bends to the vent tubes applied at the factory have not restricted airflow to
any significant extent. Also, check the Tygon for any nicks or cuts and secure to the tubing
with wire ties before re-assembly.

• Reassemble and mark the tank for vent and fuel for later reference.

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

• Once the tanks are back together, they should be leak checked before installation in the
aircraft. Connect extra lengths of fuel tubing to the fuel and vent lines and submerge the
tank in water. Pinch off one line and gently pressurize the tank by blowing into the other,
looking for signs of air bubbles. If the tank shows evidence of air leakage around the vent
cap, tighten the Philips head screw and check again. If you have a stubborn leak, you can
re-tap the inner plate for a slightly larger 6/32 cap head bolt.

Step 3: Tank Installation

photo 1 – Tank Layout

• Re-attach the Tygon tubing to the main saddle tanks. Make sure the lines are of equal
length. Exercise care not to break the tanks while fitting the Tygon. Slowly wiggle the tubing
into place. Wire tie for security.

• Insert the saddle tanks into position. They should be a fairly tight fit. Here I have used a clear
silicon or you can use goo to secure in place.

• As photo 1 shows, the tanks fit in nice and tight.

You will need to make a centre tank support from scrap ply to for the front of the tank to make the
tank level this should be fitted once only once the air intake has been installed. This tank needs to
slide to the rear of the fuse with the rear of the tank at the front of the engine hatch. As detaukled
in Photo 1

• It also needs to incline slightly from rear to front to insure adequate clearance for the
engine hatch.

• Temporarily position the lower engine bypass on the mounting rails. I have had to modify
the bypass to account for the rotation of the main wheels. You can modify the bypass as I
have to maintain a by-pass flow in conjunction with the main undercarriage housing.

• This will also assist in the stabilisation of the trust tube and help to centre this with the thrust
line of the engine.

• Do not slip and secure the intake extension into place until you have finalised the nose
wheel installation. THIS STEP IS MOST IMPORTANT

• Connect all three fuel tanks together. As I prefer to run my fuel tanks in series when using
multiple tanks, the sequence of filling of tanks is as follows:

FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH

1. Intairco UAT

2. Left Saddle Tank;

3. Right Saddle Tank;

4. Centre Tank.

• Check the position of the tanks once more with the engine hatch in place. When satisfied,
tack glue the tanks in pace with silicon, hot glue of goo.

• If you prefer to establish the tanks in parallel first:

• Check the fuel lines for nicks and cuts as you proceed through the next steps.

• Connect the two fuel pickup lines from the saddle tanks together with a “T” fitting.

• Connect this “T” fitting to the vent line of the center tank.

• Connect the two vent lines together from the saddle tanks with a “T” fitting.

• Attach this “T” fitting to a fuselage vent fitting. It is suggested you place this just ahead of

the right fuselarge leading edge. This will prevent “catching” the fitting if you slide the
fuselage on a foam transport pad. Reinforce the fuselage with a scrap piece of carbon
fibre to add a little strength to this area.

• Connect the fuel pickup from the center tank to the optional UAT or to the fuel pump. I
have located the UAT at the rear of the equipment board which has worked well with
balance.

Step 4: Nose gear

To ensure a smooth operation nose steering and retraction function on the F16 nose wheel, it is
ideal to pull the front nose retract from the airframe to work on it. In doing this your can check the
retraction and rotation function of the nose wheel assembly with ease.

• Install your nose wheel steering servo. Remember not to use the rubber grommets.
Connection the arm of the servo to the steering arm of the nose wheel and centre with the
nose wheel extended.

• Connect your servo to your RX, centre the servo and while it is powered up, check the
retraction of you nose wheel with a hand pump.

• When you are satisfied with the function of the nose retract and the servo arm etc, re-install
the front retract into the airframe and check function again with a hand pump.

• Do not use rubber grommets and make sure to use Loctite on the screws.

• If your servo has a reinforcing ridge on the mounting tab, you may need to remove it with a

razor knife to allow the servo to sit flat.

Photo 2 – installing nose gear steering servo