This Manual is for workshop use only and intended for use by experienced
mechanics.
Only the standard type of engine models 15B/D 18B/D 29C/32A are illustrated and
dealt with.
Because there are, however, many different type variants which can differ to a greater
or lesser degree from the standard type described, this Manual can and should be
used only as a quideline. Because some work is very complicated, we recommend
that the Manual be completely read before starting repairs.
The repair of FARYMANN DIESEL engines requires some special tools in addition to
standart ones. Their use is strongly recommended.
All safety precautions are to be strictly observed, because otherwise:
- death or injury to the user or third parties can occur;
- the machine or other material assets of the user may be impaired;
- efficient operation of the machine may be jeopardized.
Every person in the user`s business who is tasked with the installation,
commissioning, operation, servicing or repair of engine must have read and
understood the „Safety“ chapter of the Operating Instructions.
The engine may be serviced only by trained personnel. Any work procedure which
impairs the saety of the engine is to be forbidden.
Modifications or changes to the engine or the use of non-original replacement parts
without proper authority is not allowed on safety grounds and invalidates the liability of
the FARYMANN DIESEL COMPANY.
This Workshop Manual is technically up-to-date at the time of poing to press. Every
care was taken in its compilation to avoid errors.
We are, however, not responible for any errors in illustrations or descriptions or for any
omissions. There may also be changes due to technical developments.
We reserve the right to make changes without prior notice
.
4
I.1. Introduction to Diesel Engines
Nowadays diesel engines are well known and quite common in all kinds of machinery and
equipement as an alternative to the well established gasoline engine.
Most people who are fully familiar with gasoline engines are reluctant to deal with a Diesel. This
is without any reason, in fact, you already know more about a Dieselthan you may have
thought. If you are already familiar with the gasoline 4-stroke engine, study the comparison
below. It will show the differences between a 4-stroke Diesel and a 4-stroke gasoline engine.
GasolineDiesel
I. Intake stroke
The downwards movement of the piston
draws a mixture of gaseous fuel and air
through the open inlet valve into the
cylinder.
II. Compression stroke
The upwards movement of the piston
compresses the fuel/air mixture. The
temperature rises through the
compression stays below the self-ignition
point of the fuel.
The downwards movement of the piston
draws only air through the open inlet valve
into the cylinder.
The upwards movement of the piston
compresses the air, which causes the
temperature to rise above 500 C (932 F).
5
I. GENERAL INFORMATION
III. Power stroke
A spark created by a spark plug ignites
the fuel. The resulting expansion of the
combustion gases forces the piston down.
Fuel in a fine mist is sprayed into the
cylinder and self ignites in the hot air. The
resulting expansion of the combustion
gases forces the piston down.
IV. Exhaust stroke
The upwards movement of the piston forces the exhaust gases through the open exhaust
valve. This stroke is identical on both engines.
Both engines are of the internal combustion design because they burn fuel within the engine.
Both engines require fuel, air and a method of igniting the fuel.
Both engines can be of 2 - or 4 cycle design.
Both engines can be aircooled or watercooled.
The basic differences are:
The gasoline engine has an external mixture (carburator) of the fuel and combustione air. It needs an
electric source (spark plug) to ignite the fuel.
The diesel engine draws in only air. It has an internal mixture of fuel and combustion air. The fuel is selfignited by the high temperature of the compressed air.
To ensure that the air temperature is high enough to ignite the fuel, a diesel engine has a very high
compression ratio compared to a gasoline engine. The diesel engine does not need an ignition system,
due to the self-ignition of the fuel. Needed are a injection pump, fuel lines and a fuel injector. The
injector is often called the heart of the diesel engine. It is a precision manufactured assembly, built to
rigid specifications and clearances. It performs almost the same duties as a carburator. An injection
pump delivers fuel to the injector where it is sprayed into the cylinder. Another difference between diesel
and gasoline engines is that a diesel engine does not use a throttle valve. The governing is done by
varing the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder.
Whereever sturdiness, reliablity, fuel economy and long service life are required, the diesel engine is the
right choice.
6
I. GENERAL INFORMATION
I.2. Farymann Diesel engine
All Farymann Diesel engines are 4 stroke, direct injection diesel engines. They are built as single
cylinder engines in vertical and horizontal cylinder configuration.The direct injection guarantees an
outstanding efficiency with low fuel consumption and excellent cold starting abilities. Robert Bosch fuel
injection equipments are used on all engines. A high precision centrifugal governor totally enclosed in
the crankcase links to the fuel injector pump and to the speed contol lever.
The flywheel fan cools the engine, eliminating troublesome V-belts. Air is drawn into the flywheel fan and
routed through shouding to the cooling fins of the cylinder head.
I.3. Engine identification
Until July 1982 the engine nomination system consisted of a 10 figure code.
For example:35K54 0715 F
35= code figure for the year of manufacture
K54= engine type
0715 = serial number
F= code figure for month of manufacture
Effective July 1982 the new system consists of a 12 figure code system in addition to the serial
number (see engine name plate).
For example:15D430 0118 D5
An engine name plate is affixed to every engine. In addition to the name plate the engine order
number and, effective July 1985, the running engine number are also stamped on the
crankcase.
The complete engine code must be quoted when ordering spare parts in order to supply the
correct parts for the engine.
Number of cylindersone, vertical
Combustiondirect injection, 4 stroke
Bore/Stroke[mm]75/5582/5590/7495/74
Total displacement[cm3]242290470524
Compression ratio1:201:201:191:20
______________________________________________________________________
Direction of rotation A+C+D:counter clockwise when viewed flywheel
B :clockwise when viewed flywheel
______________________________________________________________________
Performance data (full load)
Working speed, max.[min-1]3600
Idle speed, min.[min-1]900-1000
Output„A“ DIN 6270[kW(Hp)]3.5 (4.8)4.2 (5.7)6.6 (9)7.1 ( 9.7)
„B“ DIN 6270[kW(Hp)]3.9 (5.3)4.7 (6.4)7.35(10)7.9 (10.7)
„F“ DIN 70020[kW(Hp)]4.3 (5.8)5.1 (6.9)8.1 (11)8.7 (11.8)
Mean piston speed[m/s]6.66.68.888.88
Torque („F“ output)Nm/ min -112.5/240015.2/250024.5/240027.5/2400
Lub. oil pressure max.[bar]4.04.05.05.0
(at 100°C (220°F) oil temp.)
Lub. oil pressure min.[bar]1.81.82.02.0
(at 100°C (220°F) oil temp.)
Fuel consumption[g/kWh]330310295300
Lub. oil consumption[g/kWh]1.01.01.01.0
Exhaust back
It is assumes that authorized Farymann Diesel Dealers have all of the common tools needed
to service diesel engines i.e. metric open end and ring spanners, sockets, torque wrench, mtric
caliper and depth gauge as well as piston ring pliers, piston ring compressor, etc.
All “drivers“ should be used with a hydraulic or arbor press.
bearing bushing and to remove
camshaft roller bearing
outer race and to install camshaft roller
bearing
748.172.4Bearing DriverTo remove and install conrod bearing
bushing
15
13
III. ENGINE REPAIR
748.129.4Bearing DriverTo remove and install regulation shaft
bushing
748.123.4Bearing Driver HandleTreated handle for various bearing
drives
748.125.4Valve Guide DriverTo remove and install valve gides
748.131.5Valve Sring Compr.To remove and install valves
748.135.2Retaining Ring PliersTo remove retining rings
To check engine oil pressure
748.126.2Oil Pressure Gauge
748.127.4Gauge AdaptorTo connect oil pressure gauge at
crankcase
748.138.2Valve reface kit43 cutter to reface valve seats
748.174.4Hilding deviceTo tighten and remove governor of
partly assembled engine
14
II. TECHNICAL DATA
III.1. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Prior to dismantling the engine clean off
engine exterior thoroughly.Dismantling
will be greatlyfacilitated by location
withgood lighting and freedom
ofmovement, away from dirt andmetal
chips.The work to be carried out
isdescribed and illustrated step by step in
the following.Please do take the trouble to
read the description of thework involved
prior to startingso that the scope will
beappreciated right from the start.
15
III. ENGINE REPAIR
1. Drain lubrication oil
Place suitable container under the drain
hole. Remove oval flange of oil drain,
remove oilfilter. Wait until oil has fully
trained, if necessary, tip over engine.
(Figures 1 and 1a)
2.Air cleaner
Remove the two aircleaner selflocking nuts.
Pull off the air cleaner and discard gasked.
3. Muffler
Unscrew the two M8 hex nuts of the muffler
and the M6 hex nut of the muffler screen.
Pull of the screen, muffler and discard
gasket.
(Figure 2)
4. Fuel tank
Place clamp, close to the injector pump on
the fuel supply line coming from the tank.
Next, remove the banjo bolts and their
copper washers from the fuel injector and
the fuel injection pump. Close ports of
injector and pump again with banjo bolts to
preventdirt from entering. Next,remove the
locknut holding the fuel supply line clamp.
Finally, loosen the fuel tank straps and slide
them off the ends of the tank. The fuel tank
and the line may now be removed.
(Figure 3)
16
5. Fuel tank support brackets
Pull off the fuel tank upport
brackets as well as the intake and the
exhaust manifold gaskets.
Figure 4)
6. Air deflectors
Remove the two screws and lockwashers
holding the air deflector shields on top of the
crankcase.
(Figure 5)
III.1. DISASSEMBLY
7. Valve cover
Remove the valve cover and the gasket by
removing the two nuts and plastic washers
on top of the valve cover. If necessary, tap
lightly on the side of the valve cover with a
soft faced hammer to loosen it.
(Figure 6)
8. High pressure fuel line
Loosen the high pressure fuel line by holding
a 14 mm wrench on the delivery valve holder
while unscrewing the
fuel line fitting with a 17 mm wrench.
(Figure 7)
17
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Loosen the high pressure line at the injector
in the same way.
(Figure 8)
9. Fuel injector
Remove the two hex nuts and their
lockwashers from thr injector clamp. and pull
out the injector. If the injector sticks in the
hand, use a soft faced hammer and tap
slightly on the injector. Do not use too much
force, as this may damage the injector.
Attention: Undder the injector a special
packing washer is located which must
also be removed.
10. Cylinder head
Remove the two locknuts and washers (1)
holding the protection tubr retaining spring.
Next loosen the four cylinder head nuts (2).
(Figure 10)
Drive out the rocker arm bolt with a drift pin
and a hammer. Remove the rocker arms and
push rods.(Figure 11)
18
II. TECHNICAL DATA
Remove the cylinder head nuts and the
cylinder head.
(Figure 12)
For dismantling valves use special tool.
Watch out for the two thin steel washers
under the inlet valve spring.
(Figure 13)
If the valve guides need replacement (for
wear and tear measurements refer to section
III.2.),use driver to press old guides out.
(Figure 14)
19
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Shout the valve seat be damaged to the
point that grinding of valves is not sufficient,
the seat can be resurfaced with tool (for
wear and tear limits and detailed instructions
for use of tool refer to section III.2. resp.
III.7.)
(Figure 15)
11. Cylinder shields
Remove the bolt holding the two cylinder air
deflector shields together using a
screwdriver and needle nose pliers or a
seven mm wrench.
(Figure 16)
Next, unscrew the two head screws and
remove the shields from the crankcase.
(Figure 17)
20
II. TECHNICAL DATA
Compression release
After removing its screws, pull the
compression release out of the gearcase.
(Figure 18)
13. Cylinder
Rotate the flywheel until the piston reaches
the bottom of its stroke. Carefully slide the
cylinder up off the studs.
Attention: If the repair does not require
the renewal of piston and liner, leave the
liner on the piston. Pull up the liner only
so far that piston pin bore is free and
continue with step 14.
(Figure 19)
14. Piston
Slowly rotate the flywheel until the piston
reaches the top of its stroke. With a needle
nose pliers, remove the piston pin retainer
from groove in piston at the gear train side of
the engine.
(Figure 20)
21
III. ENGINE REPAIR
With a drift pin gently hammer piston pin out
of the piston from flywheel side.
Attention: If piston pin sticks in piston,
remove piston compete with connecting
rod (step 15 and hammer out piston pin
after the assembly has been removed
from engine.
(Figure 25)
15. Connecting rod
Turn the flywheel until piston reaches the
bottom of his stroke (BCD).
Lay engine on to its flywheel side. Remove
the crankcase inspection cover by
unscrewing the six head screws. If these
srews are very tight, tapping on them with a
hammer and drift pin or flat-faced punch may
help loosen them.
(Figure 22)
When re-using the conrod bearings again,
mark the bearing shell halves and the
corresponding parts of the conrod. This
ensures that the bearing runs in the same
position again after the reinstallation.
Using a 13 mm socket, remove the two
conrod hex nuts. Pull out the conrod cap
downwards and the conrod upwards.
(Figure 24)
16. Crank handle guide
Remove the two crank handle guide screws.
Pull off the guide in a twisting motion.
(Figure 24)
22
II. TECHNICAL DATA
17. Gear cover
Remove the six allen screws and pull off the
gear cover. If nenecessary, tap at the gear
cover with a soft faced hammer to loosen
it.If, when removing, the cover should catch
on the governor beneath, turning the
flywheel slightly will free it.
(Figure 25)
Do not dismantle the gear cover any
further,if there is no need for (to check wear
and tear limits of cramshaft, speed regulation
shaft and camfollower refer to section III.2.).
In case the need for dismantling arises,
proceed as follows:
17.1. Injection pump
Remove the two injection pump hex nuts.
Pull the injection pump from the gear cover.
Leaving the injection pump gasket and shims
on the gear cover, reinstall the hex nut and
lockwashers on their studs.
(Figure 26)
To remove the injection pump camfollower,
unscrew fixing screw (arrow) through oil
filling bore.
(Figure 27)
23
III. ENGINE REPAIR
17.2. Cramshaft
Remove the snap ring holding the cramshaft
in the gear cover. Press out the cramshaft
using the driver.
(Figure 28)
To pull off the camshaft gear wheel, use
puller or press out the camshaft.
(Figure 29)
After the camshaft is removed, the roller
bearing can be pressed out from the inside
of the cover using driver.
(Figure 30)
24
II. TECHNICAL DATA
17.3. Speed regulation assembly
Lay the gear cover down on the work bench.
Remove the retaining ring from the regulation
shaft with a pliers.Pull the shaft outwards till
the ratchet plate is free from the pin.Unhook
the outer torsion spring from the boss(use a
pliers and watch out for your fingers).Hold the
inner control lever and twist the acceleration
lever down below the-normally - stop position
till the inner torsion spring is without tension
(approx. horizontal position of the acceleration
lever) and then pull eccentric shaft out of
control lever and bearing bush.
(Figure 31)
18. Governor
Install holding device remove governor pin
from governor. Spread flywheights with a
breakerbar and use hexagon socket to
unscrew governor.
Attension: Since governor has left hand
thread, unscrew governor in a clockwise
direction.
(Figure 32)
19. Oil pump
Remove the oil pump by unscrewing the 3 oil
pump screws.
(Figures 33)
25
III. ENGINE REPAIR
20. Flywheel
Using socket on stricker and a hammer,
loosen the flywheel nut by two turns.
Attention:If the flywheel has to be removed
from an engine without dismantling the
governor/regulation linkage, it is necessary
to place the acceleration lever at full load
position. Otherwise damage may occure to
the regulation linkage.
(Figure 35)
Leave the flywheel nut on the shaft. Install the
flywheel puller and turn the screws until the
flywheel breaks loose from the crankshaft
tapper. Remove the flywheel nut and flywheel.
(Figure 35)
21. Main bearing cover
Remove the four main bearing cover nuts and
washers. Next install two screws M6x30 (if not
available use allen screws M6x30 from
oilpump) into the threaded holes and screw
them in until the cover breaks loose.
(Figure 36)
Remove the key, belleville washers, angle
ring, o-ring and thrust washer.
(Figure 37)
26
II. TECHNICAL DATA
22. Crankshaft
Remove the crankshaft from the crankcase,
being careful not to drag the crankshaft gear
on the main bearing bushing.
To pull off the crankshaft gear wheel,use
puller.
(Figure 38)
22.1.
In case the roller bearing needs replacement,
replace also the inner race,which is shrunk fit
on to the crankshaft.Use race puller, pull off
the inner race.
(Figure 39)
The engine is now completely stripped
down. Clean all parts in diesel fuel or
another cleaning solution.
When the parts are dry, check for damage
and / or wear and tear. In case of doubt,
change the part.
27
III. 2. DIMENSION TABLE -
III. ENGINE REPAIR
WEARING PARTS
28
III. ENGINE REPAIR
29
III. ENGINE REPAIR
30
III. ENGINE REPAIR
31
III. ENGINE REPAIR
32
III. ENGINE REPAIR
33
III. ENGINE REPAIR
34
III. ENGINE REPAIR
35
III. ENGINE REPAIR
36
III. ENGINE REPAIR
37
III. ENGINE REPAIR
38
III. ENGINE REPAIR
39
III. ENGINE REPAIR
40
III. ENGINE REPAIR
41
III. ENGINE REPAIR
III. 3. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
42
III. ENGINE REPAIR
1. Crankcase
Press the bearing bush with driver. Take
care that the joining line of the bearing
bush is located as shown and that the
oil holes in the bushing and the
crankcase are properly lined up.
(Figure 1)
2. Crankshaft
To install the crankshaft gear wheel and
the inner race of the roller bearing, heat
the parts in an oil bath or on an electric
heater plate to a temperature of 90 100°C (195 - 210°F). Thrust them down
on the shaft using a suitable length of
pipe and a hydraulic press.
(Figure 2)
Oil the bearing bush and slide the
crankshaft into the housing. Take care
not to damage the bearing bush with the
gear teeth.
(Figure 3)
43
III. ENGINE REPAIR
3. Main bearing cover
Press the outer race of the driver into
the bearing cover. Insert the retaining
ring with pliers. Press the oil sealing ring
into the cover with driver. Before
assembling oil crankshaft journal and
the sealing ring lip, do not use grease.
Insert o-ring in the bearing cover and
put bearing cover onto stud.
Attention: Bearing cover can only be
fitted in one position. Tap lightly with
a soft faced hammer to seat the
cover. Torque down the fastening
nuts crosswise.
(Figure 4)
Assemble the thrust washer (1) and oring (2), followed by the angle ring (3)
and the two belleville washers (4)
exactly as shown.
(Figure 5)
4. Flywheel
Clean crankshaft and flywheel tapper
free of oil or grease. Insert the flywheel
key and slide the flywheel onto the
crankshaft tapper. Assemble flywheel
retaining nut and tighten to the specified
torque.
(Figure 6)
44
III. ENGINE REPAIR
5. Oil pump
Reassemble oil pump with thin covering
plate (only for securing bolts) and gasket.
Before tightening the screws to the
specified torque, pull the pump downwards.
The clearance in the srew holes of the
pump allows a sufficient backlash between
the crankshaft gear and the pump gear.
(Figure 7)
Attention: Engines with clockwise (B)
and counter-clockwise (D) rotation have
different pumps.
B: Pump gears are located on the left hand
side, a yellow dot is visible on the front of
the base plate on the right side.
(Figure 8)
D: Pump gears are located on the right
hand side, a „R“ is visible on the front of
the base plate on the left side.
(Figure 8a)
The lefthand pump can easily be modified
into a righthand pump:Punch out the
straight pins, turn the base plate and
reassemle the pump.
6. Governor
Install holding device so that all teeth fit
exactly onto cranksaft. Make sure the
governor and the crankshaft threads are free
of oil and grease.Apply a couple of drops of
Loctite No. 270 (or similar) on the governor
threads. Torque the governor down according
to engine specification.
Attention:The governor has a lefthand
thread. While torquing, the socket must
completely cover the governor screw
head. Therefore spread flyweights.
Remove holding device after assembly. For
exact governor adjustment refer to section
III.6.
(Figure 9)
45
III. ENGINE REPAIR
7. Connecting rod
To install new bearing shells, take a
shell half and lay it to approx. ¾ into the
cap. Now press with your thumb the
bearing in a sliding movement onto ist
seat. The bearing lip must fit into the
grove in the cap. The connection rod
side shell half is installed the same way.
(Figure 10)
Notice the numbers stamped onto one
side of the conrod. These are matching
marks i.e. identical numbers must be on
rod and cap.
(Figure 11)
Oil the bearing shells and install conrod
into the crankcase until it seats on the
crank pin. Insert the conrod cap through
the inspection cover.
Attention: The stamped numbers
must be aligned on the same side of
the rod but it is not important which
engine side the numbers face.
Tighten the conrod nuts to the
specified torque and reinstall the
crankcase cover.
(Figure 12)
8. Camshaft
Heat the camshaft gear wheel in an oil
bath or an electric heater plate to 90100°C (195-210°F). Thrust gear down
onto the camshaft using a suitable
length of pipe and a hydraulic press.
Attention: The chisel mark for the
timing must face towards cam side of
assembly.
(Figure 13)
46
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Using a driver press the camshaft
bearing into the gear cover.
(Figure 14)
Now press the camshaft with driver into
the bearing using a driver as a counter
pressure piece for the bearing. Make
sure that the bearing seats fully against
the bearing seat flange. Insert the
retaining ring. Install the camfollower for
the injection pump and tighten its fixing
screw. Do not forget to install a new oring on the camshaft prior to pressing
the camshaft into the bearing.
(Figure 15)
9. Governor control/speed
Regulation Linkage
Insert ratchet pin and its spring into its
hole in the gear housing and lay housing
on work bench. Put the return spring
into small hole of the control lever.
(Figure 16a)
Move the torsion spring over the
eccentric shaft and hook spring leg in
the space in the middle of the ratched
plate.
(Figure 16b)
47
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Slide the eccentric shaft through the
bearing bush in the housing and into the
control lever. Turn the acceleration lever
downwards („stop“-position) until spring leg
of the return spring can be managed to get
into the notch of the eccentric shaft.
(Figure 16c)
Use a wire loop to move and hook torsion
spring leg to the boss of the gear housing.
(Figure 16d)
Push eccentric shaft further in and push
ring spring into the notch of the eccentric
shaft.
(Figure 16e)
Attention:Initiate performance test.
The tension of the return spring must be
acting against the pressure onto the binding
screw.
(Figure 16f)
Regulation - Stationary
The outer torsion spring pulls the
acceleration lever from the stop - position
back into the idle position.
Regulation Vehicle/Bowden Cable
The outer torsion spring pulls the
acceleration lever in the stop - position.
Attention:The spring tension may be
altered by hooking the spring leg into
one of the neighboured notches.
(Figure 17)
10. Piston
Install the piston rings using a ring
expander so that the imprinted „R“ is on
top.
(Figure 18)
48
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Oil the ring and piston skirts. Check that
piston ring gaps are 120 degrees offset.
Compress rings with ring compressor. Lay
the cylinder down on the bench with the
bottom facing up. Install the piston into the
cylinder from the bottom. Never tap on the
piston crown.
Attention: Never try to install piston
through top of cylinder liner as liner is
slightly tappered. Push in the piston so
far that the piston pin bore is slightly
above edge of cylinder.
(Figure 19)
Slide the piston and cylinder over the studs
with the crescent shaped sparing in the
cylinder fins facing the gear side of the
engine.
For 18B/D engines only:
The arrow stamped on the piston top
must point towards the flywheel.
Align the piston and connecting rod bores.
Push the piston pin in and insert the
retaining ring. Push the cylinder down until it
seats firmly onto the engine block.
(Figure 20)
11. Cylinder head
Press the valve guides into the cylinder
head using driver (for protrusion dimension
see III.2.17/
18). Special care is necessary to ensure
that the guide is exactly vertical before
pressing in.
Attention: Before pressing in exhaust
valve guide, assemble the two small
washers and retainer ring (the exhaust
valve has the larger counterbore when
viewed from top but the smaller valve
diameter when viewed from the bottom.
(Figure 21)
49
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Grind in the valves. The rotocap and the
conical shaped spring belong to the
exhaust valve. The two thin steel
washers must be under the cylindrical
spring of the inlet valve. Fit new sealing
cap onto the inlet valve guide. Before
fitting the rotocap check for proper
function: Spin the cap, if rattling sound
or hard movement replace it.
(Figure 22)
Fit cylinder head gasket and slide
cylinder head down onto the cylinder. Fit
spring washers and cylinder head nuts.
On the shorter stud bolt - intake side -fit
the tote bracket and the cylinder head
nut without spring washer.
(Figure 23)
Attention: Models 15B/D do not have
any cylinder head gaskets.
At this stage do not torque down the
cylinder head nuts as the rocker
arms and push rods still have to be
fitted at a later stage.
12. Gear cover
To install the gear cover, first bring the
piston to TDC (Top dead center) by
aligning the flywheel timing mark with
the TDC mark stamped on the
crankcase at the 3 o`clock position.
(Figure 24)
50
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Insert the governor pin into the bore in
the governor. Use grease to keep the
pin in place. Line up the timing mark on
the camshaftgear with the mark on the
gear cover. (marks „A“ and „B“). Install
the gear cover (remember to place the
gaskets) onto the crankcase being
careful not to move the camshaft gear.
After the cover is installed, check the
timing mark on the flywheel. If the
crankcase and flywheel timing marks
are within ± 2mm (± 0.0787) of lining up,
the timing is correct (for governor
adjustment refer to section III.6.)
(Figure 25)
Occasionally, however, the governor will
tighten onto the crankshaft in a position
that makes it difficult to install the gear
cover. If this happens, use the following
procedure to install the cover:
- Turn the flywheel until its timing mark
aligns with the treaded hole in the
crankcase at approximately the 1
o`clock position.
(Figure 26)
- Move the timing mark on the camshaft
gear exactly 3 teeth to the left.
(Figure 27)
51
III. ENGINE REPAIR
- Install the cover. Align the camshaft
gear and gear cover timing marks. Now
check the flywheel and crankcase timing
marks. The timing is acceptable, if they
are within ± 2 mm (± 0.0787) of each
other.
When installing the gear cover screws,
note that the top two and bottom left
screw are longer than the other three.
(Figure 28)
Place new o-ring in the flute of the
support starting handle. Lubricate the
camshaft and the sealing lips of the oil
sealing ring. Do not push the guide
straight onto the gear cover. Instead use
a light twisting motion until the guide
seats itself. Tighten the two guide
screws to the specified torque.
(Figure 29)
13. Compression release device
Slide the protection tube up into its hole
in the cylinder head as far as possible.
Remember to install a new o-ring in the
cylinder head. Assemble the
decompression device with new o-ring
and gasket.
Attention: Before reinstal-ling the
decompression device check if
retaining pin for the shaft (arrow) is
still in place.
(Figure 30)
52
III. ENGINE REPAIR
When a new decompression device is
installed the correct function must be
checked. To do so install the
decompression device with the 0.4 mm
(0.0157“) thick gasket, continue with
step 14, 15 and 16. Turn the piston
approx. 1/8 revolution before TDC and
measure with a depth gauge the
distance between bracket for rocker arm
shaft and spring collar of the inlet valve.
Next, activate the decompression device
and measure the distance again. There
must be a difference between the two
measurements of o.7 - 0.9 mm (0.0236-
0.384“). If it is less than 0.7 mm
disassemble the decompression divice
and replace the 0.4 mm (0.0157“)
gasket with two 0.3 mm (0.0118“)
gaskets (in extreme cases use one 0.4
mm and one 0.3 mm gasket). Carry out
the two measurements again.
If the tolerance is more than 1.0 mm
replace the 0.4 mm gasket with the 0.3
mm. Carry out the two measurements.
(Figure 31)
14. Push rods and protection
tube
Slide the protection tube down onto the
decompression device. Assemble the
retaining spring in the top of cylinder
head exactly as shown but do not
tighten the nuts yet.
(Figure 32)
Insert the push rods through the
protection tube into top of the
decompression device. Both push rods
are alike. The intake push rod goes into
the hole in decompression device
closest to cylinder.
53
III. ENGINE REPAIR
15. Rocker arms
Place piston to TDC position. Line up rocker
arms and push rods and oil the rocker arm
bolt before installing it into the support.
Attention: To prevent damage of push
rods while torquing the cylinder head
nuts, ensure sufficient clearence
between setting screw and push
rods.Tighten the cylinder head nuts
crosswise, in 3 steps, to the specified
torque.
(Figure 33)
Tighten down the nuts for the retaining
spring.
(Figure 32, page 51)
16. Valve adjustment
Check that the decompression device is not
activated (pin is on 9 o`clock position). Set
the piston on TCD compression stroke (see
step 15). Loosen the locknuts of valve
setting screws, insert a 0.1 mm (0.004“)
feeler gauge between the valve stem and
rocker arm and adjust the clearence until a
slight drag is felt on the gauge when pulled
out. Tighten the locknut while holding the
setting screw with a screwdriver. When
finished recheck the clearance.
(Figure 34)
17. Oilfilter
Oil the rubber gasket of oilfilter and screw
on oilfilter.
Attention: Hand-tighten oilfilter
only.
Install oval flange of oil drain with gasket
and screw plug. Fill the engine with new oil
up to the upper dipstick mark.
(Figure 35)
54
III. ENGINE REPAIR
18. Cylinder shields and air
guides
Install both halves of cylinder shields and
the clamping bolt. Do not overtighten the
bolt. It is sufficient when the bold protrudes
about 1-2 mm (0.0394“-0.0787“) out of the
locknut. Install the two air guides on top of
the crankcase.
(Figure 36)
19. Fuel injector
Replace the special washer located in the
cylinder head fuel injector seat.
Attention: Use one gasket only, make
sure that the old one has been taken out.
Install the injector and the clamp. Torque
the two nuts as specified.
(Figure 37)
20. Injection pump
Place acceleration lever in full load position
and pull excess fuel button. The internal
spring pushes the control lever against the
housing. Place rod of the „fuel injection“.
When sliding in the pump the pin of the rod
directly grips into the yoke of the control
lever. Reinstall the injection pump by using
the same number and types of shims as
were on the engine before (see III.5 for
complete injection timing info.)
Attention: First install the paper gasket,
then the shims onto the stud. Shims
should not be in direct contact with the
housing due to insufficient sealing
function.
(Figure 38)
55
III. ENGINE REPAIR
21. High pressure fuel pipe
Install the high pressure fuel pipe and
tighten the union nuts on injector and
pump. While tightening nut on pump
and injector maintain counter parts with
a 14 mm wrench.
(Figure 39)
22. Valve cover
Install the valve cover gasket and the
valve cover, making certain the gasket
is properly seated on the cylinder head.
Insert new plastic washers under the
nuts and tighten to specified torque.
(Figure 40)
23. Fuel tank brackets
Reinstall the two brackets. Fit new
gaskets on both sides of each bracket.
Attention: The exhaust and air filter
gaskets are different. You need two
gaskets for each bracket.
(Figure 41)
56
III. ENGINE REPAIR
24. Fuel tank
Place the fuel tank on the tank brackets.
Slide both tank straps over the tank and
brackets. Do not forget to reinstall the
two tank seam protectors. Tighten the
straps.
(Figure 42)
25. Fuel leak-off and
supply line
Install banjo bolts on the fuel leakoff/supply line at the fuel tank and fuel
injector. Remember to replace both
copper washers on each banjo bolt.
Route the fuel line as shown.
Attention: On the injector end the
thicker copper washer is located
between the injector and the end
piece of the leak-off pipe.
(Figure 43)
26. Air filter/Muffler
Using a new gasket and two new self
locking nuts, install the air filter.
Install the muffler and muffler screen.
Attention: Fit the two flat washers
each bolt. One in front and one
behind the muffler screen.
(Figure 44)
57
III. ENGINE REPAIR
27. Test run
The engine is now completely
reassembled. Install engine on a test
bench and carry out a test run. The
engine does not require a long time
running-in program. After a short run
according to below specifications the
engine is ready for normal operation.
Also the use of special break-in oils or
lub. oil additives are not recommended.
(Figure 46)
Running-in instruction:
10 min. idle speed, no load
10 min. half speed, half load
20 min. fuel speed, full load
2 min. idle speed, (for cool ing down)
During the test run, check for proper
function, unusual noise and leakages.
Low and high idle speed, full load
speed, exhaust gas temperature, lub. oil
temperature and lub. oil pressure should
be recorded. After the test run change
the lub.oil.
58
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Figure 1Figure 2
A gear pump (2) sucks the oil from the oil sump (1) and pumps it through the oilfilter
(3) to the main bearing (5) and to the conrod bearing.
Piston, piston pin, cylinder liner and rocker arms are splash lubricated. When oil
pressure rise above 4,5 bar (63 PSI) the oil pressure relief valve (4) opens and the oil
flows back into the oil sump partly.
All Farymann engines require heavy duty lubrication oils of at least CC, preferably CD
quality (API service classification).
For correct viscosity and oil change intervalls refer to operation manual. At least once
a year crankcase should be flushed to remove all dirt and abrasions that may be in the
crankcase.
Oil pressure testing
The oil pressure depends mostly on the bearing play (see section III.2). Before oil
presure make sure that oil level is topped up and correct viscosity is used.
Remove the oil channel plug screw (Figure 2) and connect gauge adaptor and oil
pressure gauge.
The oil pressure at idle speed should be at least 0.5 bar (7 PSI). At full load (2850 rpm
and 100°C/220°F oil temperature) it should be at least 1.8. bar (23 PSI).
If oil pressure is too low, check first if the oil has the correct viscosity (according to the
ambient temperature) and if the pressure relief valve is working before further
dismantling of the engine.
59
III. ENGINE REPAIR
The fuel flows from the tank (1) through the filter (2) to the injector pump (3). As the
quality supplied is higher than required for the injection, most of it goes back to the
tank via the return pipe (4), simultaneously carrying heat away from the pump.
Also the return pipe ensures a constant bleed of the fuel system.
From the injection pump fuel is fed through the high pressure pipe (5) to the injector
(6) and, in a fine mist, sprayed into the combustion space shortly before TDC of the
compression stroke. A return pipe (7) carries back any leakage to the tank.
60
III. ENGINE REPAIR
III.5.1. Fuel System
The fuel filter prevents the entry of dirt
into the injection pump. The normal
lifespan of the filter is approx. 2000
operation hrs., however, it depends on
the purity of the fuel used.
Prior to changing fuel filter, clean the
fuel pipe from dirt with a rag and close
off the line between tank and filter with
clamp.
(Figure 21)
Pull the inlet and outlet lines from the
filter.
(Figure 3)
Take care that no dirt enters the pipes.
Discard the used filter. Do not try to
clean it! Push the pipes as far as
possible onto the connection nipples of
the filter.
Attention: Watch out for the correct
direction of flow (arrow on filter
housing)!
(Figure 4)
III.5.2. Injection nozzle
The injector nozzle injects the fuel in a
fine mist and under a high pressure into
the combustion space. Due to the high
mechanical and thermal stress, the
nozzle requires regular maintenance.
Carbon resuides on the nozzle tip are
removed with a brass wire brush.
The spray holes can be cleaned with a
special needle (Bosch tool)
(Figure 5)
61
III. ENGINE REPAIR
To check the injection pressure, connect
the complete injector valve to a nozzle
tester.
Pump with the hand lever till the nozzle
ejects.The fuel must be ejected evently
atomized without drippling at the
specified pressure.
(Figure 6)
Caution:
Keep hands away from nozzle spray!
The spray from a nozzle can
penetrate deep into the flesh of the
fingers or hand and destroy the
tissues. Diesel oil entering the bood
stream can cause blood poisoning.
If injection pressure is too high or too
low, it must be corrected by replacing
shims in the injector valve.
To do so dismantle the injector valve:
Unscrew the sleeve nut (1), take of the
nozzle (2), pressure piece (3), valve
cone (4) and pressure spring (5).
(Figure 7)
Replace adjustment shims.
Thicker shims= higher pressure
Thinner shims= lower pressure
An alteration of 0.1 mm(.004“) will bring
a change of approx. 10 bar (145 PSI)
When reassembling take care that the
pins on the pressure piece are correctly
located in nozzle body and nozzle
holder.
If the nozzle leaks,dribbs or does not
atomize properly, change the complete
nozzle. Lapping of the nozzle needle is
not recommended.
62
III. ENGINE REPAIR
III.5.3. Excess starting
fuel button
For ease of starting all engines are fitted
with an excess startingfuel pull button.
(Figure 8)
A cone limits the travel of the injector
pump fuel rack. When the starting fuel
button is pulled down prior to start, the
cone allows the fuel rack to travel a
longer way.
(Figure 9)
As soon as the engine reaches its high
idle speed the governor pushes the fuel
rack towards stop, the starting fuel
button disengages and returns to its
normal position.
Therefore it is necessary to start the
engine without load in order to reach
maximum rpm. Otherwise the starting
fuel button will not disengage and
continously overload the engine.
Also the engine output is adjusted via
the con of the starting fuel button.
Depending in the installation depth of
the cone the fuel rack travel is shorter
(=less output) or longer (=higher output).
This output adjustment is done at the
factory´s test bench. Under no
circumstance this setting should be
altered.
If the excess staring fuel button or
the complete gearcover was
renewed, the engine output must be
readjusted on a testbench.
63
III. ENGINE REPAIR
III.5.4. Adjustment of fuel
injection timing
The correct setting of the
commencement of delivery is a basic
requirement for a troublefree function of
the engine. As the injection timing is
fixed, a check and respectively
readjustment is only necessary when
the engine speed was altered, a new
injection pump was installed or the
camshaft/camshaft gear was renewed.
Engines of model 15 and 18 are set at
„delivery cur off point“.
First crank the engine in rotation
direction to compression stroke till TDC
mark on the flywheel is approx. at the 5
o`clock position. Remove the allen head
screw from injector pump head and the
sealing washer under it and fit drip tube.
(Figure 10)
Attention:Fuel will flow out of the
pump as soon as the screw is
loosened.
Set acceleration lever at half load.
Attention: Excess starting fuel
buttom must not be pulled.
Slowly crank the engine rotationwise
and observe the drip tube. First the fuel
flows free out of it, drips, stops and
starts to drip again. The delivery cut-off
point is reached when approx. 1 drop
per second comes out of the tube.
(Figure 11)
64
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Use a flexible ruler and measure the
distance between TDC marks on the
flywheel and housing.
(Figure 12)
Compare the measurement with the
valves at the table III.8 observing the
correct flywheel diameter and engine
speed. If the measured value is out of
tolerance, readjust the commencement
of delivery, either by adding or removing
shims under the injection pump. Adding
shims shortens the distance (=delayed
injection), removing shims increases
(=advanced injection) the distance
between the TCD marks.
If shims have been added respectively
removed, or a new injection pump ishas
been fitted, the installation deepth must
be checked.
Measure from the mounting flange down
to the edge in the roller tappet (notdown to the roller). This measurement
plus the thickness of the shims should
be between 57.5 mm (2.263“) and 59.1
mm (2.327“).
(Figure 13)
If it is not possible to set the injection
timing via the shims, then most probably
the alignment of the camshaft gear is
not correct (see III.3.12) or the TDC
mark is wrong.
Attention: The thickness of the shims
fitted under the pump is stamped on
the mounting flange of the injector
pump in 1/10 mm.
e.g. 12 = 1.2. mm. This value, however,
refers only to the originally fitted pump.
When a pump has been changed or the
injection timing was altered, the new
corrected thickness should be stamped
on.
(Figure 14)
65
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Figure 15
1. Governor body
2. Midrange spring
3. Spacer ((instead
of 2 for generator application)
4. Governor pin
5. Bridge
6. Support
7. Full load spring
8. Idle speed spring
9. Cross slotted nut
66
III. ENGINE REPAIR
The purpose of governor is to maintain
constantly the specified speed of the
engine. Therefore, centrifugal and
resilient spring forces are used to
monitor the amount of fuel injected by
the injection pump.
According to the utilization of the
engine, there are several types of
governor:
1. Fixed full speed governor.
Only one speed (full load) is governed.
For applications with constant speed
operations such as generating sets.
2. Idle and full speed governor
( 2- stage governor.)
Besides the full load speed the idling
speed is also governed. For applications
with constant speed operation and idle
speed relief such as compressors,
freezer units.
3. All speed governor (variable
speed governor).
Governs the complete range of speeds
from idle up to full speed. For
applications with variable speed
operation such as industrial engines,
vehicle applications.
III.6.1. Construction and function
of governor
The governor consists mainly of two
flyweights and a set of springs which
counteract the centrifugal force exerted
by flyweights.
(Figure 15)
The governor being assembled onto the
crankshaft, its speed is synchron with
the engine speed. Its rotation drives the
flyweights outwards and pushes a pin
via a lever transmission against the
adjustable tappet bolt of the control
lever. Through this lever the injection
pump fuel rack is pushed towards idle
position. The control lever pivots on the
eccentric regulation shaft.
67
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Due to the control lever pivoting on the
eccentric regulation shaft the distance
between tappet bolt and governor pin
increases when the acceleration lever is
moved towards full load position. Thus
enabling the small tension spring to
push the control lever and the
connected injection pump fuel load.
More fuel means higher speed, i.e. the
governor pin is being pushed out further
and pressed again the tappet bolt,
resulting in a movement of the control
lever/fuel rack towards the idle
position.Less fuel is injec-ted the speed
drops , governor pin moves back leaving
a gap between tappet bolt and pin - and
the complete governing loop starts
again. Consequently the speed of the
engine undergoes permannt oscillations, but these are so slight that only a
very sensitive revolution meter would
detect them.
(Figure 16)
III.6.2. Governor setting
Each time the governor has been
repaired and/or the gear cover or speed
regulation assembly removed and
reassembled, the governor must be
reset, proceeding as follows:
Remove the governor cover plate.
(Figure 17)
68
III. ENGINE REPAIR
Crank the engine until the governor
flyweights stand in a vertical position. Put
the acceleration lever in full load position.
Open the lock plate and loosen the castle
nut. Screw in tappelt bolt completely till
tappet rests on control lever. Insert a
screwdriver between the flyweights and
force them apart to maximum opening.
(Figure 18)
Now screw in the tappet bolt until it just
comes in contact with the governor pin (no
play to be felt when pushing onto the lever
with your fingers.) Release the flyweights
and screw in the tappet bolt half a turn
further.
Maintain the screw in this position and
tighten the castle nut, bend the lock plate
and reassemble the cover plate. The correct
setting of the clearance between tappet bolt
and governor pin is essential for the proper
function of the engine. If the clearance is
too wide the engine can overspeed, is it too
small the engine will not reach its full speed.
Speed adjustments in the range of ± 50 rpm
are possible by altering the position of the
cross slotted nuts.
(Figure 19)
To increase speed - tighten the cross
slotted nut.
To reduce speed - loosen the cross slotted
nut.
Attention: The cross slotted nut must be
at least flat with the end of the stud bold.
Otherwise the self securing effect of the
nut is not working. Normally the stud
bold should protude out of the cross
slotted nut.
For larger speed variations the governor
springs must be replaced. Replace the
cross slottered nuts whenever a nut has
been unscrewed. Every change in speed
setting should be controlled on a test bench,
or at least with a revolution counter.
69
III.6.3. Acceleration lever
The acceleration lever is fixed in its position
on the excentric shaft with a pin. The rachet
plate located behind the lever is not fixed
and only kept in place by the M8 nut. As the
ratched plate is used as a buffer for the
engine shut down, the correct position
between plate and lever is important. The
lower edge of the lever should leave one
and a half notches visible.
(Figure 20)
If more notches are visible the shut down of
the engine may be hampered; if no notch is
visible, damages (denting) on the
control/eccentric shaft lever may occur.
To relocate the rachet plate loosen M8 nut,
hold the lever and move the plate till correct
position is reached. Tighten the M8 nut
while holding the lever, as otherwise the
regulation linkage may be dented.
III. ENGINE REPAIR
III.7. Resurfacing valve seats
The cylinder head is fitted with valve seat
rings made of wear resistant steel. Should a
resurfacing be necessary,use valve seat
cutter. Simply insert guide pin (o.6.98 mm)
into valve guide. Slide cutter over the guide
and, while applying light pressure only,
rotate the cutter with the T-handle.
(Figure 21)
Do not cut too deep. Observe the maximum
permissible valves recess.After cutting the
seat with fine grinding compound. To check
the valve sealing, insert the valve and fill a
small amount od diesel oil through the inlet
resp. outlet channel. The sealing is ok when
at a maximum 2 drops per minute leak out
of closed valve.
This section is a guide to be possible
location of the faults that may occure on
an engine. Information of possible
causes and suggested remedies are
also given. But please note that this list
can never be compete.
70
III.8. Adjustment – Injection pump – begin of delivery