Installation instructions
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These mounting materials are exclusively intended
for use on walls constructed of brick or concrete.
For walls built of other materials, such as hollow
bricks, consult a professional expert.
4.5 Installing the Flue materials
When penetrating a wall or ceiling the
opening must be at least 5mm larger than
the diameter of the discharge material.
Horizontal sections should be installed
with a slope towards the fire (3 degrees).
Build the system from the fire. If this is
not possible you can make use of an
extendable adapter section.
For truing up the exhaust system use the
½ meter pipe, which can be shortened and
ensure that the inner pipe is always 2cm
longer than the outer pipe.
Parts, which are shortened, must be
secured with a self-tapping screw
Wall and roof terminals can also be cut.
Do not insulate but ventilate built-in flue
material. (approx. 100cm2).
4.6 Constructing the false chimney
If possible, carry out a performance test on the fire
before finally finishing the installation.
4.6.1 Minimum false chimney size and
distance to combustible materials
Construct the false chimney of non-combustible
material in combination with metal profiles or of
masonry/concrete blocks.
Always use a lintel or reinforcing bars while
bricking the outlet. They should not be placed
directly on the fire.
4.6.2 Ventilation
The ventilation must comply with the applicable
local standards.
Correct ventilation prevents a too high
temperature of the gas regulator block and its
electronics and also limits the temperature of the
convection air. Therefore plan for outlet of grills
and a ventilating control hatch with a minimum
free passage of 200cm2 per grid or a similar
alternative.
Place above the grates a screen plate made of noncombustible material. (
Fig. 1.2A)
4.6.3 Installation and finishing
For installation and finishing the following points
are of interest:
A = Fixing points (Fig. 2.2).
B = Mouldings (Fig. 2.2).
C = Spacer (Fig. 2.5)
D, F and H (Fig. 2.2, 2.3 and 2.5).
Please note:
Ensure that the fire is not load-bearing with regard
to the false chimney breast .
(See the dimensional drawing Chapter 16.1).
Pay special attention to the following points:
1. Check during work if the glass can be
inserted and removed.
2. Check during work if the strips T (Fig. 3.2)
or Q (Fig. 3.3) match.
4.6.4 Method 1 (Fig. 2.1a)
Build the false chimney breast against the fixing
points A, the mouldings B and the build-in frame D
(Fig. 2.2). The installation must always allow for
installing and removing the glass!
Take into account the thickness of the finish!
Mouldings B has to be in line (F Fig. 2.3) with the
top of the glass slot H.(Fig. 2.5)
Do not use moulding B as a supporting structure
(fig. 2.5)
Remove the fixing points (A) on the side wall
before the outlet wall is finally finished! (Fig. 2.4).
4.6.5 Method 2 (Fig. 2.1b)
Process see Chapter 4.6.4
4.6.6 Method 3 (Fig. 2.1c)
Remove the moulding B (Fig. 2.2). To ensure the
air-tightness of the unit the screws must be
replaced.
The base X (Fig. 2.5) must be 2mm clear of the
spacer C (Fig. 2.5) and 4mm above the glass slot H
of the unit (Fig. 2.5). This will allow the Strip Q (Fig.
3.3) to be on the same level as the base.
4.6.7 Mounting the Solid cover strips (Fig.
3.1, 3.2 and 3.3)
First, place the bottom strip (T or Q)
Then place the left and right strips (S)
(these are fixed by the adjustable
magnetic snappers)