Esse Engineering 990 HYBRID Instructions Manual

Australia

Distributed in partnership with Pivot Stove

234-238 Moorabool Street

Geelong, VIC 3220

Phone [phone]

Website and On-line Store www.pivotstove.com.au

CONTENTS.

Statutory Warnings

Pg2

Spacing and
Dimensions

Pg15

Technical Data

Pg5

Control Panel

Pg18

Chimney and Flue
Information

Pg6

Electric Ovens, Grill,
and Hotplate

Pg19

Flue Draught

Pg9

Lighting and
Controlling the Fire

Pg23

Unpacking Your
New Cooker

Pg9

Cooking on the
Wood Burning
Section

Pg25

Installation

Pg10

Notes on Wood
Burning

Pg27

Connecting Your
Cooker

Pg11

Caring for Your Esse

Pg32

Before Using Your
Cooker

Pg12

Guarantee

Pg33

Hot Water System

Pg12

Commissioning
Checklist

Pg35

Your Cooker

Pg14

STATUTORY WARNINGS

This appliance must be commissioned by a registered installer or plumber.

The warranty card must be returned to ensure guarantee validity.

Please read these operating instructions carefully for full information on the safe
installation, use and care of your new Esse appliance.

Attention is drawn to the fact that fire cement is caustic and hands must be washed
thoroughly after use. The appliance is heavy and care must be taken during handling.

Although the appliance does not contain asbestos products, it is possible that
asbestos may be disturbed in existing installations and every precaution must be
taken.

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These instructions give a guide for the installation of the appliance but in no way
absolve the installer from responsibilities to conform to AS/NZS Standards, in
particular AS/NZS 2918:2018, relating to the installation of solid fuel appliances. All
local regulations including those referring to national standards need to be complied
with, when installing this appliance.

Any adjacent combustible material should be far enough away from the appliance so
as not to raise 60ºC above the room temperature when the appliance is in operation.
If necessary, any adjoining walls should be protected from the effects of heat.
Clearances from combustible materials are:

 Rear clearance of 175mm with heat shield
 Side Clearance of 20mm below the hob/100mm above the hob

It is also recommended that a smoke alarm and appropriate fire safety equipment
such as a fire extinguisher and fire blanket are installed in the kitchen as a safety
precaution and also a carbon monoxide detector.

An adequate air supply for combustion and ventilation is required. A purpose
provided air vent is necessary. Air openings provided for this purpose must not be
restricted.

This appliance must be correctly installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s

instructions by a suitably qualified person.

We cannot accept responsibility for damage to persons or items due to poor or
incorrect installation of this appliance.

Make sure that the voltage and frequency of the mains supply correspond to the
details on the cooker data plate which is located behind the control panel.

Maintenance and servicing work must only be carried out after the power supply has
been disconnected by switching off at the socket and unplugging the cooker.

Due to our policy of continuous innovation, we reserve the right to adjust or modify
our product without prior notification.

Do not let children near the oven during use to avoid the danger of burns or injury.
Use of the appliance by the elderly or infirm should be supervised.

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The appliance and its accessible parts become hot during

use. Care should be taken to avoid touching heating

elements. Children less than 8 years of age shall be kept

away unless continuously supervised.

Unattended cooking on a hob with fat or oil can be

dangerous and may result in fire, NEVER try to extinguish

a fire with water, instead switch off the appliance, cover

the flame with a lid or use a fire blanket.

Danger of fire: do not store items on the cooking surfaces.

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons
with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and
knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the
appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play
with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children
without supervision.

Metallic objects such as knives, forks, spoons and lids should not be placed on the
hob surface since they can get hot.

Any spillages on the heat conserving bolster lid should be removed from the lid
before opening.

Do not use steam cleaners to clean any part of this appliance.

This appliance is not intended to be operated by means of an external timer or
separate remote-control.

This appliance can slip if placed on a raised platform.

If the supply cord is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer, its service
agent or similarly qualified persons in order to avoid a hazard.

During cooking, food naturally produces steam, which is vented away to prevent
excessive build-up within the ovens. As steam can condense to water droplets on
the cooler outer trim of the oven, it may be necessary during cooking to wipe away
any moisture with a soft cloth. This will also help to prevent soiling and
discolouration of the oven exterior by cooking vapours.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Warning: This appliance is not suitable for installation in a shared flue system

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Nominal heat output

5.0 kW

Minimum chimney
draught

12Pa

Combustion air
requirements

29 m3/h

Mean flue gas
temperature

170OC
Weight of appliance

400kg

Flue gas mass flow

10g/s

Figure 1 990 Hybrid Data Plate

The cooker data plate is located behind the control panel.

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CHIMNEY AND FLUE INFORMATION

The successful operation of the cooking appliance relies on the adequate
performance of the chimney to which it is connected. The following chimney
guidelines must be followed:

• If a flue liner is used, it should be 150mm (6’’) diameter and be made of

suitable material for burning wood. A Flue with a diameter of 150mm (6’’),
is required to connect to the cooker.

• Voids in the chimney should be avoided, as these will prevent a steady flue

draught. The appliance flue pipe should pass beyond the narrowing of the
chimney.

• The flue needs to be a minimum of 4.6m in height and terminate in

accordance with AS/NZS2918

• If the appliance is installed as a freestanding appliance, it should not

support any part of the chimney.

• Be free from cracks, severe bends, voids, and obstructions.

• Be connected to this one appliance only.

• New chimneys must be in accordance with local regulations.

• The chimney must be capped to prevent ingress of rain.

• A flue/chimney access point is required so that the state of the chimney

can be checked and any fallen soot removed.

• External flues must be insulated to prevent heat loss.

• Do not fit an extractor fan in the same room as the appliance.

Note: The chimney/flue to which this appliance is being connected must be swept
and examined for soundness prior to installation. Remedial action should be taken if
required, seeking expert advice if necessary. Where the chimney is believed to have
served an open fire installation it is possible that a higher flue gas temperature from
a closed appliance may loosen deposits that were firmly adhered, with the
consequent risk of flue blockage. It is therefore recommended that the chimney be
swept a second time within a month of regular use after installation.

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Figure 2 Chimney and Flue Performance

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Figure 3 Supplied Chimney Kit

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FLUE DRAUGHT

UNPACKING YOUR NEW COOKER.

The flue draught should be checked before installation to ensure that the flue is free
of obstructions.

After installation two flue draught readings should be taken and recorded in these
instructions, one with the appliance at minimum burning rate and one at maximum
burning rate.

Minimum reading: The appliance should be lit and allowed to warm the flue
thoroughly. Close the air controls, and ensure firebox door is fully closed. Allow the
burning rate to become steady. The flue draught reading should now be taken; the
minimum required is 12 Pascals [Pa] (0.05’’ w.g.).

Maximum reading: The air controls can now be opened to allow the appliance to
burn at maximum rate. Take a flue draught reading.

Ideally, the flue draught readings should range between 12Pa, 0.12mm (0.05’’ w.g.)

and 24Pa, 2.5mm (0.1’’ w.g.). Any readings significantly outside this range may
indicate the need for remedial action. Low flue draught symptoms: difficult to light
and smoke coming into the room. High flue draught symptoms: fuel burns away very
quickly, over firing which may damage the appliance & invalidate the warranty.

A flue stabiliser can be fitted to reduce the draught through the appliance if the
draught is too high. The flue stabiliser should be fitted in the same room as the
appliance and be the same size as the flue pipe. Consult building regulations
regarding additional ventilation.

Unpack your new Esse Cooker, removing all of the outer packing and accessories
from the top and bottom ovens, including protective film on the door liners. At this
time please examine the cooker for any damage to the enamel finish.

Any damage to the cooker or anything missing, please contact your supplier for
advice.

We ask that you dispose of any packaging in a safe responsible manner and recycle
where possible.

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INSTALLATION.

You must be aware of the following safety requirements & regulations:

This appliance shall be installed in accordance with the regulations in force and in a
well-ventilated space.

Read the instructions before installing or using this appliance.

The cooker must be installed in accordance with: All relevant AS/NZS Standards /
Codes of Practice and the relevant Building / IEE regulations

Do not use the towel rail as a lifting aid as damage will occur.

Location of the Oven

The appliance should be sited on non-combustible material.

This appliance is designed for domestic cooking only. Use for any other purpose
could invalidate any warranty or liability claim.

Flue Connection

The flue pipe used to connect the appliance to the chimney is 6’’ (150mm) in

diameter.

(The flue connection is on the top of the appliance, in the centre at the back.)

Important Notes

• The installation must allow access for adequate chimney sweeping and flue

• Avoid using bends greater than 45º to the vertical. All flue pipe sections

• All joints in the flue system must be effectively sealed.

• All flue sockets must face upwards. On completing the installation of the

• Air inlet grilles should be positioned so that they are not liable to blockage.

• An air extraction device shall not be used in the same room as the

cleaning.

should be as close to the vertical as possible.

appliance, the chimney, hearth and walls adjacent to the cooker must
conform to local or national regulations currently in force. (AS/NZS
2918/2018)

appliance unless adequate additional ventilation is provided.

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CONNECTING YOUR COOKER

• A flue cleaning door should be fitted to provide access for cleaning the flue

and chimney.

• Check the appliance for soundness of seals between casting and main

components and that all supplied parts and fittings are correctly fitted.

• Ensure the appliance is left operational and hand over the operating

instructions and operating tools supplied.

• Before leaving the installation demonstrate the operation of the appliance

to the user. Explain all controls and flue way access for cleaning.

For your own safety we recommend that a competent person installs your cooker.
This cooker is designed to be installed using a standard 15 Amp plug. A qualified
electrician is not required.

Electrical connection

Ovens with a three-pole power supply cable are designed to operate with alternated
current at the supply frequency and voltage indicated on the data plate (located
behind the control panel).

Connecting the power supply cable to the mains

The appliance is supplied fitted with a 1.5 metre cable and a normalized 13 amp plug
which correspond to the load indicated on the data plate. Before making the
connections check that: the circuit breakers or fuses of the home system can support
appliance load (see data plate), the power supply system has a sufficient earth
connection which complies with the provisions of current regulations and the law,
and there is easy access to the socket. Do not use reducers, adapters, or coiled
extensions as these could cause heating or burning.

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BEFORE USING YOUR COOKER

HOT WATER SYSTEM

Figure 4 Possible Plug Locations

Remove plastic protective covers from inner door panels and lift up lid.

Before you cook for the first time, it is recommended that both ovens be switched
on to the highest setting for about an hour to burn off any initial odours

The grill should also be turned on for 15 minutes with the top oven door left open,
before it is used for the first time.

A. If a boiler is fitted to this system it must be connected to a heating system

otherwise the warranty is void.

B. There are two connections, both 1” BSP Female on the left hand side. Follow

general notes below.

C. The D boiler is of stainless steel construction for use on an open vented indirect

system.

D. It is recommended that the system is connected using flexible connectors

and/or shut off valves which will allow the cooker to be moved forward for
maintenance

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E. General Notes on Water System: -

1. The cooker will produce hot water at differing rates depending on how it

is operated. Heating control is manual, no thermostat is fitted.

2. The system must be designed to cope with loads between the maximum

and minimum output. There must be sufficient gravity load to absorb
250L low pressure hot water output.

3. This unit is not approved for use with hydronic heating systems.

4. Whichever system is chosen the layout must follow established heating

engineering practice. To avoid trapping air in the boiler a 1” BSP

connection must be used on the flow and return tapping, and any
reduction in pipe size thereafter being made on a vertical rising pipe. The
cooker must be level when fitted and the flow pipe must rise from the
boiler.

5. The cylinder and pipe work should be lagged to avoid heat loss.

6. The static head must not exceed 18 meters.

7. A drain cock should be fitted to the lowest part of the circuit.

8. The total water capacity of the boiler is 4 litres.

9. A heat leak radiator should be fitted to absorb any excess heat that may

be produced.

10. The system must be open vented.

11. It is recommended that the system is sealed with hemp & paste or

equivalent which can withstand temperatures exceeding 100oC

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YOUR COOKER.

1

WOOD FIRED HOTPLATE

2

HEAT CONSERVING LIDS

3

ELECTRIC HOTPLATE

4

CONTROL PANEL

5

ELECTRIC TOP OVEN AND GRILL

6

ELECTRIC BOTTOM OVEN

7

WOOD FIRED BOTTOM OVEN

8

FIREBOX

Figure 5 990 Hybrid Cooker

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SPACING AND DIMENSIONS.

All dimensions are in mm

Figure 6 990 Hybrid Dimensions

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Figure 7 Clearances to Combustable Surfaces

General Information

The cooker is not to be grouted or sealed at the back or sides of the worktop as if
any maintenance is required the cooker will have to be pulled away from the wall at
the rear.

The cooker weighs 400kg and so the floor must be capable of withstanding the load.

Hearth requirements

A minimum 930mm deep x 990mm wide x 9mm thick floor protector (Bellis Board)
should be used under and in front of the appliance base when installing the appliance
(see joint AS/NZS 2918:2001 3.3.2).

The floor protector should extend 300mm in front of the appliance fuel loading door
and be placed centrally in the 990mm width.

The Thermal conductivity of the floor protector is 0.1m².K/W for 9mm thick sheets.

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Before using your cooker remove plastic protective
covers from inner door panels and lift up lids.

Clearances

 Combustible Rear Clearance : 175mm

o Using a 6” Stainless ( painted Stainless or enamel flue is also

approved ) with a 180o Stainless Heat shield extending to the
900mm high

o Non Combustible Rear Clearance : 30mm

 Side Clearance

o To Combustible ( below hob / bench height ) 20mm
o To Non Combustible ( below hob / bench height ) 10mm
o To Combustible wall ( above hob ) 100mm
o To Non Combustible wall ( above hob )10mm

Due to the hand crafted nature of the cooker all dimensions are ±2mm.

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CONTROL PANEL

The control panel cable is to be kept accessible and not

recessed into the wall if wall mounted

Figure 8 990 Hybrid Control Panel

Figure 9 Control Panel Mounting Holes

Drill and plug the wall with suitable plugs. Ensure that the screws will fit the back
plate before drilling any holes. Ensure that the screw head remains proud of the wall
to allow the back plate to engage.

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ELECTRIC OVENS, GRILL, AND HOTPLATE

The cooker consumes less than 1kW/Hr in slumber

mode at a room temperature of 18°C.

The electric ovens work by modulating the power between the cast iron hotplate,
the top oven, and the lower oven. If both ovens and the hotplate are on, the cooker
will modulate the power to reach the selected temperatures, but if only one oven or
the hotplate is turned on it will heat up more quickly.

The cooker is designed to be used on slumber mode for the majority of the day giving
off a constant background heat and can then heat up quickly to the required cooking
temperatures when required. However the cooker can simply be used as an On/Off
appliance if required.

The top and bottom oven are controlled thermostatically and the temperature
markings on the controls are in °C. To switch one of the ovens on, turn the
corresponding knob clockwise to the desired temperature. The indicator light will
glow red to show that the oven is heating up and will glow green when the oven has
reached selected temperature. Similarly when the control is moved to a lower
temperature the red light will flash until the oven has reached the selected
temperature, once the selected temperature is reached the LED will glow green
again. The control shows a red flashing light after the oven has been switched off to
indicate residual heat.

The top oven
This oven has a patented 3kW wrap around element and a 3kW grill element. The
grill is a full width grill and takes priority over the top oven control. The Top oven
and grill can never be on together, if the grill control is on at any position, then the
top oven will not work until it the grill is switched off.

The thermometer in the top oven door is only a guide to actual oven temperature.
The reading will be incorrect when the door is or has been opened and will recover
once the door closed.

The lower oven
This oven has a patented 3kW wrap around element and is used as a smaller capacity,

high or low temperature oven.

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Maximum Temp (oC)

Time Taken (Mins)

Top Oven

240

60

Bottom Oven

210

65

Hotplate

400

80

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

450

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140

Temp (

o

C)

Time (Mins)

Heat Up Times

BOTTOM OVEN TOP OVEN HOT PLATE

SAFETY POINTS

 When using the oven shelves ensure they are placed correctly between the

shelf runners.

 Always use oven gloves when removing food from either oven or the grill.

Cooker heat up times

From slumber the heat up times can be seen in the table below. These times have
been measured with all elements heating at once, if only fewer elements are heated
the time will be reduced.

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The grill
The grill has a 3kW element fixed in the top of the top oven. Turn the control

clockwise to turn the grill on and increase the temperature. The grill can take up to
four minutes to reach full operating temperature from cold. The neon indicator will
remain red for this time until the temperature is achieved. When grilling place the
grill pan and wire shelf onto an oven shelf which is already pre-positioned height
wise in the top oven. The grill pan should be handled using the tool provided, locate
the tool around the rim then move to locate it in the centre of the pan

Figure 10 Grill Pan

GRILL SAFETY POINTS,

 When attaching the grill pan handle make sure it is in the middle of the grill

pan,

 Do not leave the grill pan handle attached to the grill pan whilst grilling, as

it will become hot. Use only when moving the grill pan,

 Only operate the grill with the top oven door open.
 Ensure the oven shelf height is correctly positioned before placing the grill

pan on it.

 The towel rail may become HOT after long periods of using the grill.
 Do not place towels or any other items over the towel rail when grilling.
 Do not line the grill pan with Aluminium foil.

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Cast Iron Hotplate

The cast iron hotplate is Ø330mm and has a 3kW Element.

From the OFF setting it takes approximately 40 minutes to reach 400⁰C, or 31
minutes from 150⁰C to 400⁰C when in slumber mode. Heat up times were checked
with the heat conserving lid down and at a room temperature of 18°C

Always use solid machined flat base pans to ensure the best contact on the hotplate
and subsequent heat transfer. Cast iron pans usually work well.

 Never use utensils with rough bases.
 It is important that any spillage is dealt with before the hob is used again,

otherwise it may become baked on solid and difficult to remove.

 Always keep the hotplate cover down when the hob is not in use to

conserve energy.

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LIGHTING AND CONTROLLING THE FIRE

The air controls for the fire box are located on the glass and steel fire door behind
the top left cast iron door of the cooker.

Figure 11 Firebox Controls

Before lighting the fire ensure that all vermiculite bricks are in the correct position.
Ensure the air controls are in the open position by moving the controls to the right
hand position.

Open the fire door and lay two logs along the base of the fire box forming a space
between them.

Figure 12 Logs Laid in Firebox

Place a firelighter in the space and surround with a small amount of kindling.

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Figure 13 Fire Lighter and Kindling in Place

Lay a third log over the top of the space perpendicular to the other logs.

Figure 14 Final Log in Position

When you are ready to light the fire all that needs to be done is light the firelighter.

Once the fire has been lit leave the door partially open to allow additional airflow
until the fire has become established. When the fire is established the fire door can
be fully closed. The primary air control can be moved towards the closed position
once the sooting has burnt off the brickwork. The secondary air flow can be reduced
by moving the control to the left once the fire has become established which should
be used to control the fire during normal operation.

If the cooker is being used primarily to heat the room it is recommended that the
bolster lids are kept in the raised position to allow heat from the hotplates to radiate
into the room.

When refuelling the cooker it is recommended that the logs are placed running front
to back as in Figure 12 as this leads to the cleanest combustion.

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COOKING ON THE WOOD BURNING SECTION

If any part of the cooker begins to glow it is being

over fired. Stop use immediately and allow to cool

before further use.

Before lighting a full fire in the cook stove for the first time it is recommended that
3 smaller fires are lit first to ensure that any moisture is driven out.

The oven and hotplate are heated directly by the fire. In order to heat up the oven
and hotplate, the fire should be lit as described on page 23.

The temperature of the hotplate is graduated from the inside out, see Figure 15 for
approximate temperatures. Machined base pans are essential as heat is transferred
to them via conduction.

Figure 15 Approx. Working Temps 30 Mins. After Refuelling

Food may be cooked directly on the hotplate if desired. The bolster lid may be left
down when the hotplate is not in use in order to keep it at a cooking temperature.

To increase oven temperatures, refuel the cooker, increase the burning rate of the
fuel by use of the secondary air control, and regulate to the desired temperature.

The shelf in the bottom oven has anti-pull out stops on the ends to prevent it from
being pulled out inadvertently; to remove a shelf, pull forward until the stop is
reached, then lift at the front and pull out of the oven. Use reverse procedure to
refit. If the shelves pull straight out then they are in back to front.

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Cooking in the Firebox (Optional)

If you have purchased the additional firebox cooking kit then it is possible to cook in
the firebox over the glowing embers of the fire for a barbecue effect.

The ribbed bricks replace the 4 front bricks in the firebox and allow for the additional
wire shelf to be positioned above the embers.

Figure 16 Ribbed Fire Bricks in Position

Esse appliances are designed to be run with the firebox door closed. Opening the
door for in firebox cooking (barbecue) should be done only when the fire has died
down and cooking is done over hot embers.

Opening the door for long periods of time with the fire roaring will result in enamel
damage.

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NOTES ON WOOD BURNING

Wood burns most efficiently when the air for combustion is supplied from above the
fire bed. This air supplies the oxygen necessary for the volatile gasses given off by
the wood as it is heated to combust which increases efficiency and reduces heat
being wasted up the chimney.

Running the cooker with the air control open will provide oxygen for the wood to
burn on the fire bed and should be used to control the fire when lighting or refuelling.
The cooker should ideally be run with the air control in the closed position for the
majority of the time in use. If the fire appears to die down too low then opening the
air control slightly for a short period can help revive it.

To get the best results from your cooker it is recommended that a wood stove
thermometer be fitted to the flue pipe. This allows you to monitor the temperature
of the flue gasses leaving the cooker.

Below 115oC

This is below the condensation point of wood gasses and may cause the build-up of
tar in the chimney, dirty the fire door glass and result in the inefficient burning of
fuel.

115oC – 260oC

The flue gasses should be in this temperature band for the safest, most efficient
operation of your cooking stove.

Above 260oC

Too hot. Heat will be wasted up the chimney. Excess heat may damage the cooking
stove or ignite an existing accumulation of tar resulting in a chimney fire. In the event
of a fire, close the air controls on the appliance and call the fire brigade for
assistance.

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Seasoning and Storing Firewood

Wood, which has recently been cut and is still full of sap and water is known as
"green" wood.

Green wood will generally burn poorly and inefficiently, because it can have over
50% water in its cells. It may be hard to light, smoulder, not put out any heat and
cause more than the usual amount of creosote to build up in your chimney.

So your aim should be to dry the wood out to below 20% moisture content, this
process is called seasoning. As the name implies, you should store your wood for a
season or so, while it dries, but there are things you can do to speed up seasoning by
cutting the wood now rather than just before you use it.

Wood is composed of bundles of microscopic tubes that were used to transport
water from the roots of the tree to the leaves. These tubes will stay full of water for
years even after a tree is dead. This is why it is so important to have your firewood
cut to length for 6 months or more before you burn it, it gives this water a chance to
evaporate since the tube ends are finally open and the water only has to migrate a
small distance to escape. Splitting the wood helps too by exposing more surface area
to the sun and wind, but cutting the wood to shorter lengths is of primary
importance.

Here’s how you can tell whether your wood is ready or not: Well seasoned firewood
generally has darkened ends with cracks or splits visible, it is relatively lightweight,
and makes a clear "clunk" when two pieces are struck together. Green wood on the
other hand is very heavy, the ends look fresher, and it tends to make a dull "thud"
when struck.

Another thing you can do to help is store your wood properly. Store it off the ground
by building the pile on some longer logs (or whatever method you can devise). A shed
or shelter with an open side makes an ideal storage place, as the air can circulate
around the logs and help to dry them out. Unventilated spaces or plastic tarps, which
never get taken off will prevent the drying and evaporation process and cause
moulds and rot. So, if a tarp is your only option, take it off frequently to air the wood
on fine days. And remember to put it back on again. Seasoned firewood will reabsorb
large amounts of water if exposed to rain, snow and excessive dew, which is liable to
make it rot and be unfit for making a good fire.

When you build up a store of firewood, remember that the wood may start to
deteriorate after 4 to 5 years, although this is of course variable and depending on
storage conditions and species involved.

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What Type of Wood is Best?

The difference between 'hard' and 'soft' woods is the density of their cells or fibres.

As a general rule, the deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves in the autumn)
are usually thought of as hardwoods and the evergreen trees (such as pines, firs and
larches) as the softwoods. But generalisations are of course always subject to many
exceptions. Some evergreens may well be harder than some deciduous trees. Birch,
for example, is not very hard at all. So we should understand that there is a whole
range of densities amongst our tree species, including medium dense woods, which
cannot be satisfactorily classed as hard or soft.

Firewood tends to be sold by volume rather than weight. Assuming that the wood is
reasonably dry, the weight of a square metre of good hardwood may be double of
that of a square metre of softwood. This means that the same volume of hardwood
will provide you with more fuel to burn than an equal amount of softwood, simply
because it contains more substance.

(N.B. The price of hardwood will normally not be double that of softwood, because
it took the same amount of labour to prepare. So, if a trailer full of hardwood costs
more than the same size trailer full of softwood, the more expensive option may well
be the most economical.)

The other advantage of good hard firewoods are that the cooker does not need to
be fed as often and the charcoal-beds made by the glowing wood may burn more
easily overnight.

However, the ideal situation would be to have a store of both hard and soft woods,
because the softer woods also have distinct advantages. They light more easily than
the slower burning hardwoods and if the softwoods are dry, they create a hotter,
more intense fire. The draught created by the hotter fire moves the air up the
chimney faster.

After reading the notes opposite about the burning process, you will understand that
means less pollution in the form of smoke and less creosote condensation in your
chimney.

The denser hardwoods tend to smoulder more easily when the fire is first lit, so their
flue gas temperature will be much cooler.

Because softwoods like pine and larch contain a lot of resins and pitch, a popular
misconception is that they will fur up the chimney with creosote more easily than a

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hardwood like oak. This is not necessarily true at all. It is not the pitch that is the
problem, it's the water IN the pitch. Once the water in the wood has evaporated,
that pitch becomes high octane fuel. When dry, softwoods burn extremely hot.

There is also the matter of seasoning to be considered. When you buy wood, it will
usually have been cut in the winter of the year you buy it. Hard woods tend to take
longer than softwoods to fully dry out.

Softwoods cut in the previous winter should, with proper storage, be ready to burn
the next autumn, whereas many hardwoods may take a bit longer than that. Oak, for
example, is very slow to dry out and ideally left for two years. It is also possible to
purchase pre seasoned wood or kiln dried wood.

Summarising we can say that it is always sensible to buy this year for next years fuel
supply and that it is very handy to have both soft and hardwoods. You can use the
softwoods to start a good fire and you will have additional control over the fire (in
addition to the cookers controls) by adding slower burning wood to fast ones if you
want to leave the cooker without tending it for a while. Alternatively you can add
some fast burning softwood logs to the slower hardwood logs to instantly revive a
fire, which has been neglected.

The Wood Burning Process

Understanding what happens when wood is burnt will enable you to burn wood in a
more environmentally friendly way, reduce the maintenance required for your
chimney and get more out of your wood. There are 3 stages in the wood-burning
process:

Evaporation

When you light the cooker a lot of energy will be needed at first to boil away any
moisture, which is left in the wood. Using energy to drive off excess water in
firewood robs the cooker of energy needed for an efficient and clean burn. Also,
much of the energy wasted in evaporating water is energy that could have heated
the hotplate and oven. This is a waste of wood, money and effort. The presence of
all that moisture tends to keep "putting out" the fire, and therefore making it burn
very poorly, which tends to produce a lot of creosote and pollution.

Emissions

As the heat of the fire intensifies, waste-gases (smoke) are released from the wood.

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Unburned smoke is emitted into the air either as pollution, or condensed in the
chimney causing creosote build-up. It takes time for the air in your chimney to heat
up. When it is still cold you get an effect similar to the condensation of hot breath on
a colder window or mirror. So when the by-products of combustion (smoke in the
form of gases) exit the cooker, and flow up into the relatively cooler chimney,
condensation occurs.

The resulting residue that sticks to the inner walls of the chimney is called creosote.
Creosote is formed by unburned, flammable particulates present in the smoke. It is
black or brown in appearance. It can be crusty and flaky, tar-like, drippy and sticky
or shiny and hardened. Quite often, all forms will occur in one chimney system.

If the wood you are using is water logged, or green, the fire will tend to smoulder
and not warm the chimney sufficiently. Wet wood causes the whole system to be
cool, and inefficient. In contrast: dry wood means a hot fire, which results in a hot
flue, and a hot flue means much less creosote clogging up your chimney.

The cooker’s firebox is designed to operate at very high temperatures to burn the

gases and particles released from the wood, which means less air-pollution.

Charcoal

When most of the tar and gasses have burned the remaining substance is charcoal
(ash in its finer form). A hot bed of charcoals and ash can enhance the combustion
process when burning larger pieces of wood. Start with a small fire to develop a bed
of glowing embers. As the charcoal bed develops and the cooker heats up, slowly
add larger and larger pieces of wood. It takes time to build a good charcoal bed, but
it is well worth the effort. Only empty excess ash periodically and always leave a bed
of ash on which to light the next fire. When wood burns it gives off volatile gases
which contain calorific heat value.

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CARING FOR YOUR ESSE

Your Esse cooker is very easy to keep clean.

The cast iron hotplate helps to keep its self-clean, by carbonising cooking spills and

splashes. Just brush off the carbon dust. For stubborn stains, don’t be afraid to use

a wire brush on the cast iron hotplate and inside the ovens.

Splashes and spills on the vitreous enamel should be wiped away as soon as possible,
using a damp soft cloth. Micro-fibre cloths are especially good for this. Never use a
cold wet cloth on any enamelled surfaces as the thermal shock can cause crazing.

If spills have become baked on to the enamel, use a soap filled pad, not too coarse,
so as to avoid scratching enamel. DO NOT use oven cleaners.

Likewise the inner door panels and inner bolster lids can be cleaned with a cream
cleanser or for more stubborn marks, a soap filled pad. The linings will show marks
and discolour with use, but with regular cleaning will maintain its look for longer.

The stainless steel bolster lids and handrail can be cleaned with a damp soapy cloth,
followed by a wet cloth, finishing by polishing with a clean dry cloth.

The enamelled surfaces can be cleaned with glass cleaner to help get a good streak
free shine. Any spillage of milk or fruit juices on to the enamelled surfaces must be
wiped up straight away, as the acidity may stain the front.

Some components such as the side panels are powder coated (painted) and nothing
abrasive should be used on them. Use a soap filled pad instead.

If the cooker is finished in the ‘Matte Black’ painted finish, additional care must be

taken not to use any chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Use a light brush or lint free
cloth instead.

If the cooker is not going to be used for an extended period of time, we advise that
the cooker be cleaned thoroughly, the ovens and hotplate can be wiped over with a
light coating of rapeseed oil, the bolster lids left up and the doors left slightly ajar. If
any rust does form it can be removed with a wire brush and a fresh coating of
rapeseed oil should be applied.

During the life of your cooker it may be necessary to adjust the door handles and
change the door ropes. The door handles can be adjusted using the adjustment
screw on the lift up latch part of the handle. A video on how to adjust the door

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GUARANTEE.

handle is on the Esse TV section of www.esse.com. Replacement door ropes can also
be purchased form www.esse.com

Your ESSE is guaranteed against defects arising from faulty manufacture for 2 years
when supplied by an ESSE Specialist.

Upon registration of the warranty, ESSE will extend the guarantee period to 5 years
from purchase. Your details must be registered with us by either returning the
completed warranty card or by completing registration on-line at www.esse.com.
The warranty must be registered within 1 month of installation to qualify for the 5
year warranty.

The appliance must be only used for normal domestic purposes and in accordance
with our instructions, be correctly installed and serviced.

The guarantee does not cover:

 Installation
 Wear and tear
 Parts deemed to be replaceable or service parts including electrical

components that may be replaced during the normal usage of the
appliance.

 Enamel damage caused by impact, spillage, or water ingress.
 This guarantee is personal to the original purchaser and not transferable.
 Any stove or defective part replaced shall become the Company’s property

INTERMITTENT USE OF YOUR COOKER

In the event of intermittent use and prolonged shutdown, it should be noted that in
some circumstances enamel may be displaced due to ingress of damp. Whilst this is
rare, it is most likely to occur in situations where the unused cooker remains in an
unheated property. There is a layer (known as the ground coat) between the vitreous
enamel surface and the cast iron. Ground coat is porous and if exposed (e.g. after a
chip in the vitreous enamel coat), may allow damp to penetrate behind the vitreous
enamel and spread through the ground coat. Surface oxidisation of the cast iron may
thereafter occur, causing the vitreous enamel to fall off. Such damage will not be

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covered by your warranty. We recommend that a light coating of petroleum jelly be
applied to any damaged areas when the cooker is not in use to help keep out the
damp, in addition to following the ‘caring for your Esse cooker’ instructions on page
32

CUSTOMER CARE

In the event you should require spare parts, please order through your ESSE dealer
or by contacting Esse via telephone [phone]) or our website, www.esse.com.

Should you have cause for dissatisfaction with your cooker, you should contact your
ESSE dealer, who will, in most instances, be able to offer you immediate assistance.
You will be required to give the following details.

 Your name, address and postcode.
 Your telephone/contact details.
 Clear and concise details of the fault.
 Model and serial number of the cooker (found behind the control panel).
 Purchase date (please note that a valid purchase receipt or guarantee

documentation is required for in-guarantee service calls).

We will then check that we have an accurately completed warranty card, if not then
any work carried out may be charged.

We will assess the nature of the complaint and either send replacement parts for
your dealer to fit, send an engineer to inspect & report, or send an engineer to repair.
If the fault is not actually due to faulty workmanship but some other cause such as
misuse or failure to install correctly, a charge will be made to cover the cost of the
visit and any new parts required, even during the warranty period. Home visits are
made between 08.30-1700 hrs Monday to Friday, and are arranged for either a
morning or afternoon appointment.

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COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST

Dealer the appliance was purchased from:

Name:

Address:

Telephone No:

ESSENTIAL information:

Date Installed

Model Description:

Serial No:

Installation Engineer:

Company Name:

Address:

Telephone No:

Commissioning Checks – to be completed and signed:

Has the use of the appliance, operation and controls
been explained?

Yes No
Instruction book handed to the customer?

Yes No

To assist with any potential guarantee claim please complete the following
information:-

To be completed by the installer.

Signature:………………………………………………..

Print Name:…………………………………………………

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Australia

Distributed in partnership with Pivot Stove

234-238 Moorabool Street

Geelong, VIC 3220

Phone [phone]

Website and On-line Store www.pivotstove.com.au