Esse PLUS 1, PLUS 1D Instructions Manual

ESSE Engineering Limited, Long Ing, Barnoldswick, Lancashire

BB18 6BJ

Tel. [phone], Fax: [phone]

Website and On-line Store http://www.esse.com

CONTENTS.

GENERAL SAFETY
INFORMATION

Pg3

COMMISSIONING
CHECKLIST

Pg16

THE CLEAN AIR ACT
1993 AND SMOKE
CONTROL AREAS UK

ONLY

Pg5

LIGHTING AND
CONTROLLING THE
FIRE

Pg17

TECHNICAL DATA

Pg7

COOKING ON YOUR
PLUS1

Pg19

CHIMNEY AND FLUE
INFORMATION

Pg7

ASH REMOVAL

Pg21

FLUE DRAUGHT

Pg10

NOTES ON WOOD
BURNING

Pg21

UNPACKING YOUR
NEW COOKER

Pg10

CARING FOR YOUR
ESSE

Pg26

INSTALLATION

Pg11

CLEANING THE FLUE
WAY

Pg27

BEFORE USING YOUR
COOKER

Pg12

GUARANTEE

Pg28

HOT WATER SYSTEM

Pg13

INTERMITTENT USE
OF YOUR COOKER

Pg29

SPACING AND
DIMENSIONS

Pg14

CUSTOMER CARE

Pg30

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GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION

Please read these operating instructions carefully for full information on the
safe installation, use and care of your new ESSE appliance.

In the UK, the installer has a responsibility under the Health and Safety at
Work Act 1974 to provide for the safety of persons carrying out the
installation. Attention is drawn to the fact that fire cement is caustic and
hands must be washed thoroughly after use. The appliance is heavy and care
must be taken during handling.

Although the appliance does not contain asbestos products, it is possible
that asbestos may be disturbed in existing installations and every precaution
must be taken.

These instructions give a guide for the installation of the appliance but in no
way absolve the installer from responsibilities to conform to British
Standards, in particular BS8303 and BS6461, relating to the installation of
solid fuel appliances. All local regulations including those referring to
national and European standards need to be complied with, when installing
this appliance.

Outside of the UK, the installer must comply with all local, national &
international standards that apply. Any adjacent combustible material
should be far enough away from the appliance so as not to raise 60ºC above
the room temperature when the appliance is in operation. If necessary, any
adjoining walls should be protected from the effects of heat. Clearances
from combustible materials are 50mm from the sides and 100mm from the
rear.

It is also recommended that a smoke alarm, a carbon monoxide detector,
and appropriate fire safety equipment such as a fire extinguisher and fire
blanket are installed in the kitchen as a safety precaution, see Approved
Document J of the Building Regulations for more information.

An adequate air supply for combustion and ventilation is required. A purpose
provided air vent may be necessary, see Approved Document J of the
Building Regulations for guidance. Air openings provided for this purpose
must not be restricted.

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This appliance must be correctly installed in accordance with these

The appliance and its accessible parts become hot
during use. Care should be taken to avoid touching
heating elements. Children less than 8 years of age

shall be kept away unless continuously supervised.

Unattended cooking on a hob with fat or oil can be

dangerous and may result in fire. NEVER try to

extinguish a fire with water, instead switch off the

appliance, cover the flame with a lid or use a fire

blanket.

Danger of fire: do not store items on the cooking

surfaces.

instructions by a suitably qualified person.

ESSE cannot accept responsibility for damage to persons or items due to
poor or incorrect installation of this appliance.

Due to our policy of continuous innovation, we reserve the right to adjust or
modify our product without prior notification.

Should it be likely that children, aged, or infirm people approach the
appliance whilst the fire door is open, then a fireguard manufactured in
accordance with BS 8423:2010 should be used. Also warn children not to sit
or stand on the appliance or use it as a ‘step-stool’ for access to cupboards
or shelves etc. above the appliance.

Do not let children near the oven during use to avoid the danger of burns or
injury. Use of the appliance by the elderly or infirm should be supervised.

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and
persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user
maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.

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Metallic objects such as knives, forks, spoons and lids should not be placed

THE CLEAN AIR ACT 1993 AND SMOKE CONTROL AREAS UK ONLY

on the hob surface since they can get hot.

Do not use steam cleaners to clean any part of this appliance.

This appliance can slip if placed on a raised platform.

During cooking, food naturally produces steam, which is vented away to
prevent excessive build-up within the ovens. As steam can condense to
water droplets on the cooler outer trim of the oven, it may be necessary
during cooking to wipe away any moisture with a soft cloth. This will also
help to prevent soiling and discolouration of the oven exterior by cooking
vapours.

Avoid the use of aerosol sprays in the vicinity of the cooker.

Under the Clean Air Act local authorities may declare the whole or part of
the district of the authority to be a smoke control area. It is an offence to
emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace or from any fixed
boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It is also an offence to
acquire an "unauthorised fuel" for use within a smoke control area unless it
is used in an "exempt" appliance ("exempted" from the controls which
generally apply in the smoke control area).

The Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs has powers
under the Act to authorise smokeless fuels or exempt appliances for use in
smoke control areas in England. In Scotland and Wales this power rests with
Ministers in the devolved administrations for those countries. Separate
legislation, the Clean Air (Northern Ireland) Order 1981, applies in Northern
Ireland.

Therefore it is a requirement that fuels burnt or obtained for use in smoke
control areas have been "authorised" in Regulations and that appliances
used to burn solid fuel in those areas (other than "authorised" fuels) have
been exempted by an Order made and signed by the Secretary of State or
Minister in the devolved administrations.

Further information on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found
here: http://smokecontrol.defra.gov.uk/

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Your local authority is responsible for implementing the Clean Air Act 1993
including designation and supervision of smoke control areas and you can
contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements”

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TECHNICAL DATA

Warning: This appliance is not suitable for installation in a shared flue system

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Nominal heat output

5.0 kW

Minimum chimney
draught

12Pa

Combustion air
requirements

29 m3/h

Mean flue gas
temperature

216remoteOC
Weight of appliance

400kg

Flue gas mass flow

10g/s

Net efficiency

82.3%

Seasonal efficiency

72.3%

ERP rating

A+

Energy Index

109

CHIMNEY AND FLUE INFORMATION

The cooker data plate is located behind the cast oven door.

The successful operation of the cooking appliance relies on the adequate
performance of the chimney to which it is connected. The following chimney
guidelines must be followed:

• It should be installed and commissioned in accordance with BS EN

15287-1:2007

• It should have an internal cross section of no less than 320cm2

(200mm dia.) (If a flue liner is used, it should be 150mm (6’’)

diameter and be made of suitable material for burning wood). A

Flue with a diameter of 150mm (6’’), is required to connect to the

cooker.

• Voids in the chimney should be avoided, as these will prevent a

steady flue draught. The appliance flue pipe should pass beyond
the narrowing of the chimney.

• Terminate at least 1m above roof level so that the chimney does

not terminate in a pressure zone.

• If the appliance is installed as a freestanding appliance, it should

not support any part of the chimney.

• Be free from cracks, severe bends, voids, and obstructions.

• Be connected to this one appliance only.

• New chimneys must be in accordance with local regulations.

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• The chimney must be capped to prevent ingress of rain.

• A flue/chimney access point is required so that the state of the

chimney can be checked and any fallen soot removed.

• External flues must be insulated to prevent heat loss.

• Do not fit an extractor fan in the same room as the appliance.

• Be a minimum 4.6m high from top of the cooker to the chimney

pot.

Note: The chimney/flue to which this appliance is being connected must be
swept and examined for soundness prior to installation. Remedial action
should be taken if required, seeking expert advice if necessary. Where the
chimney is believed to have served an open fire installation it is possible that
a higher flue gas temperature from a closed appliance may loosen deposits
that were firmly adhered, with the consequent risk of flue blockage. It is
therefore recommended that the chimney be swept a second time within a
month of regular use after installation.

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Figure 1 Chimney and Flue Performance

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FLUE DRAUGHT

UNPACKING YOUR NEW COOKER

The flue draught should be checked before installation to ensure that the
flue is free of obstructions.

After installation, two flue draught readings should be taken and recorded
in these instructions, one with the appliance at minimum burning rate and
one at maximum burning rate.

Minimum reading: The appliance should be lit and allowed to warm the flue
thoroughly. Close the air controls, and ensure firebox door is fully closed.
Allow the burning rate to become steady. The flue draught reading should
now be taken; the minimum required is 12 Pascals [Pa] (0.05’’ w.g.).

Maximum reading: The air controls can now be opened to allow the
appliance to burn at maximum rate. Take a flue draught reading.

Ideally, the flue draught readings should range between 12Pa, 0.12mm
(0.05’’ w.g.) and 24Pa, 2.5mm (0.1’’ w.g.). Any readings significantly outside
this range may indicate the need for remedial action. Low flue draught
symptoms: difficult to light and smoke coming into the room. High flue
draught symptoms: fuel burns away very quickly, over firing which may
damage the appliance & invalidate the warranty.

A flue stabiliser can be fitted to reduce the draught through the appliance if
the draught is too high. The flue stabiliser should be fitted in the same room
as the appliance and be the same size as the flue pipe. Consult Approved
Document J of the Building Regulations regarding additional ventilation.

Unpack your new ESSE Cooker, removing all of the outer packing and
accessories from the top and bottom ovens, including protective film on the
door liners. At this time please examine the cooker for any damage to the
enamel finish.

If there is any damage to the cooker or if anything is missing, please contact
your supplier for advice.

We ask that you dispose of any packaging in a safe responsible manner and
recycle where possible.

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INSTALLATION

You must be aware of the following safety requirements & regulations:

This appliance shall be installed in accordance with the regulations in force
and in a well-ventilated space.

Read the instructions before installing or using this appliance.

The cooker must be installed in accordance with: All relevant British
Standards / Codes of Practice and the relevant Building / IEE regulations.

Do not use the towel rail as a lifting aid as damage will occur.

Location of the Oven

The appliance should be sited on non-combustible material.

This appliance is designed for domestic cooking only. Use for any other
purpose could invalidate any warranty or liability claim.

Flue Connection

The flue pipe used to connect the appliance to the chimney is 6’’ (150mm)

in diameter.

(The flue connection is on the top of the appliance, in the centre at the back.)

Important Notes

• The installation must allow access for adequate chimney sweeping

and flue cleaning.

• Avoid using bends greater than 45º to the vertical. All flue pipe

sections should be as close to the vertical as possible.

• All joints in the flue system must be effectively sealed.

• All flue sockets must face upwards. On completing the installation

of the appliance, the chimney, hearth and walls adjacent to the
cooker must conform to local or national regulations currently in
force. In the United Kingdom, the appropriate sections of the
Building Regulations must be conformed to.

• Air inlet grilles should be positioned so that they are not liable to

blockage.

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• An air extraction device shall not be used in the same room as the

BEFORE USING YOUR COOKER

appliance unless adequate additional ventilation is provided.

• A flue cleaning door should be fitted to provide access for cleaning

the flue and chimney.

• Check the appliance for soundness of seals between casting and

main components and that all supplied parts and fittings are
correctly fitted.

• Ensure the appliance is left operational and hand over the

operating instructions and operating tools supplied.

• Before leaving the installation, demonstrate the operation of the

appliance to the user. Explain all controls and flue way access for
cleaning.

Remove plastic protective covers from inner door panels.

The hotplate has been coated with oil at the factory to prevent rusting and
therefore will require wiping with a damp cloth and drying with a tea towel
or kitchen roll.

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HOT WATER SYSTEM

A. If a boiler is fitted to this system it must be connected to a heating

system otherwise the warranty is void.

B. There are two connections, both 1” BSP Female on the left hand side.

Follow general notes below.

C. The D boiler is of mild steel construction for use on an open vented

indirect system.

D. General Notes on Water System: -

1. The cooker will produce hot water at differing rates depending

on how it is operated. Heating control is manual, no thermostat
is fitted.

2. The system must be designed to cope with loads between the

maximum and minimum output. There must be sufficient gravity
load to absorb 2.6kW low pressure hot water output.

3. A cylinder is essential for domestic hot water supply. Minimum

capacity is 135L.

4. This unit is not approved for use with hydronic heating systems.

5. Whichever system is chosen the layout must follow established

heating engineering practice. To avoid trapping air in the boiler

a 1” BSP connection must be used on the flow and return

tapping, and any reduction in pipe size thereafter being made on
a vertical rising pipe. The cooker must be level when fitted and
the flow pipe must rise from the boiler.

6. The cylinder and pipe work should be lagged to avoid heat loss.

7. The static head must not exceed 18 meters.

8. A drain cock should be fitted to the lowest part of the circuit.

9. The total water capacity of the boiler is 4 litres.

10. A heat leak radiator should be fitted to absorb any excess heat

that may be produced.

11. The system must be open vented.

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SPACING AND DIMENSIONS

Figure 2 Plus 1 Dimensions

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The cooker is not to be grouted or sealed at the back or sides of the worktop
as if any maintenance is required the cooker will have to be pulled away from
the wall at the rear.

The cooker weighs 195kg and the floor must be capable of withstanding the
load.

Make sure the cooker is level, use packing pieces if necessary.

The cooker may require access to the boiler points (if fitted) via the left side
panel once it is installed. We also ask that a 15mm gap is provided at the rear
of the cooker and a 10 mm gap between the cooker sides and any adjoining
non-combustible work surfaces that may be fitted is provided. If these
surfaces are combustible then these clearances increase to 50mm from the
sides and 100mm from the rear.

Due to the hand crafted nature of the cooker all dimensions are ±2mm.

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COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST

Dealer the appliance was purchased from:

Name:

Address:

Telephone No:

ESSENTIAL information:

Date Installed

Model Description:

Serial No:

Installation Engineer:

Company Name:

Address:

Telephone No:

Commissioning Checks – to be completed and signed:

Has the use of the appliance, operation and
controls been explained?

Yes No

Instruction book handed to the customer?

Yes No

To assist with any potential guarantee claim please complete the following
information:-

To be completed by the installer.

Signature:………………………………………………..

Print Name:…………………………………………………

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LIGHTING AND CONTROLLING THE FIRE

The air controls for the fire box are located on the glass and steel fire door
behind the top cast iron door of the cooker.

Figure 3 Firebox Controls

Before lighting the fire, ensure that all vermiculite bricks are in the correct
position. Ensure the air controls are in the open position by moving the
controls to the right hand position.

Open the fire door and lay two logs along the base of the fire box forming a
space between them.

Figure 4 Logs Laid in Firebox

Place a firelighter in the space and surround with a small amount of kindling.

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Figure 5 Fire Lighter and Kindling in Place

Lay a third log over the top of the space perpendicular to the other logs.

Figure 6 Final Log in Position

When you are ready to light the fire all that needs to be done is light the
firelighter.

Once the fire has been lit leave the door partially open to allow additional
airflow until the fire has become established. When the fire is established
the fire door can be fully closed. The primary air control can be moved
towards the closed position once the sooting has burnt off the brickwork.
The secondary air flow can be reduced by moving the control to the left once
the fire has become established which should be used to control the fire
during normal operation.

When refuelling the cooker it is recommended that the logs are placed
running front to back as in Figure 4 as this leads to the cleanest combustion.

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Before lighting a full fire for the first time it is recommended that 3 smaller

COOKING ON YOUR PLUS1

If any part of the cooker begins to glow it is being

over fired. Stop use immediately and allow to cool

before further use.

1.

Up To

300oC

2.

Up To

290oC

3.

Up To

250oC

4.

Up To

190oC

fires are lit first to ensure that any moisture is driven out.

The oven and hotplate are heated directly by the fire. In order to heat up the
oven and hotplate, the fire should be lit as described on page 17.

The temperature of the hotplate is graduated from the inside out, see Figure
7 for approximate temperatures. Machined base pans are essential as heat
is transferred to them via conduction.

Figure 7 Approx. Working Temps 30 Mins. After Refuelling

To increase oven temperatures, refuel the cooker, increase the burning rate
of the fuel by use of the secondary air control, and regulate to the desired
temperature.

The shelf in the bottom oven has anti-pull out stops on the ends to prevent
it from being pulled out inadvertently; to remove, pull forward until the stop
is reached, then lift at the front and pull out of the oven. Use reverse
procedure to refit. If the shelf pull straight out then it is in back to front.

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Cooking in the Firebox (Optional)

If you have purchased the additional firebox cooking kit then it is possible to
cook in the firebox over the glowing embers of the fire for a barbecue effect.

The front two side bricks, on both the left and right hand side of the firebox
should be replaced with the new bricks. These bricks incorporate runners for
the wire rack.

Figure 8 Ribbed Fire Bricks in Position

ESSE appliances are designed to be run with the firebox door closed. Opening
the door for in firebox cooking (barbecue) should be done only when the fire
has died down and cooking is done over hot embers.

Opening the firebox door for long periods of time with the fire roaring will
result in enamel damage.

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ASH REMOVAL

NOTES ON WOOD BURNING

When burning wood, only remove small amounts of ash from the firebox,
leaving ideally 30mm depth of ash in the bottom for best performance.

Wood burns most efficiently when the air for combustion is supplied from
above the fire bed. This air supplies the oxygen necessary for the volatile
gasses given off by the wood as it is heated to combust, which increases
efficiency and reduces heat being wasted up the chimney.

Running the cooker with the air controls open will provide oxygen for the
wood to burn on the fire bed and should be used to control the fire when
lighting or refuelling. The cooker should ideally be run with the air control in
the closed position for the majority of the time in use. If the fire appears to
die down too low then opening the air control slightly for a short period can
help revive it.

To get the best results from your cooker it is recommended that a wood
stove thermometer be fitted to the flue pipe. This allows you to monitor the
temperature of the flue gasses leaving the cooker.

Below 115oC

This is below the condensation point of wood gasses and may cause the
build-up of tar in the chimney, dirty the fire door glass and result in the
inefficient burning of fuel.

115oC – 260oC

The flue gasses should be in this temperature band for the safest, most
efficient operation of your cooking stove.

Above 260oC

Too hot. Heat will be wasted up the chimney. Excess heat may damage the
cooking stove or ignite an existing accumulation of tar resulting in a chimney
fire. In the event of a fire, close the air controls on the appliance and call the
fire brigade for assistance.

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Seasoning and Storing Firewood

Wood, which has recently been cut and is still full of sap and water is known
as "green" wood.

Green wood will generally burn poorly and inefficiently, because it can have
over 50% water in its cells. It may be hard to light, smoulder, not put out any
heat and cause more than the usual amount of creosote to build up in your
chimney.

So your aim should be to dry the wood out to below 20% moisture content,
this process is called seasoning. As the name implies, you should store your
wood for a season or so, while it dries, but there are things you can do to
speed up seasoning by cutting the wood now rather than just before you use
it.

Wood is composed of bundles of microscopic tubes that were used to
transport water from the roots of the tree to the leaves. These tubes will
stay full of water for years even after a tree is dead. This is why it is so
important to have your firewood cut to length for 6 months or more before
you burn it, it gives this water a chance to evaporate since the tube ends are
finally open and the water only has to migrate a small distance to escape.
Splitting the wood helps too by exposing more surface area to the sun and
wind, but cutting the wood to shorter lengths is of primary importance.

Here’s how you can tell whether your wood is ready or not: Well seasoned
firewood generally has darkened ends with cracks or splits visible, it is
relatively lightweight, and makes a clear "clunk" when two pieces are struck
together. Green wood on the other hand is very heavy, the ends look fresher,
and it tends to make a dull "thud" when struck.

Another thing you can do to help is store your wood properly. Store it off the
ground by building the pile on some longer logs (or whatever method you
can devise). A shed or shelter with an open side makes an ideal storage place,
as the air can circulate around the logs and help to dry them out.
Unventilated spaces or plastic tarps, which never get taken off will prevent
the drying and evaporation process and cause moulds and rot. So, if a tarp is
your only option, take it off frequently to air the wood on fine days. And
remember to put it back on again. Seasoned firewood will reabsorb large
amounts of water if exposed to rain, snow and excessive dew, which is liable
to make it rot and be unfit for making a good fire.

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When you build up a store of firewood, remember that the wood may start
to deteriorate after 4 to 5 years, although this is of course variable and
depending on storage conditions and species involved.

What Type of Wood is Best?

The difference between 'hard' and 'soft' woods is the density of their cells or
fibres.

As a general rule, the deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves in the
autumn) are usually thought of as hardwoods and the evergreen trees (such
as pines, firs and larches) as the softwoods. But generalisations are of course
always subject to many exceptions. Some evergreens may well be harder
than some deciduous trees. Birch, for example, is not very hard at all. So we
should understand that there is a whole range of densities amongst our tree
species, including medium dense woods, which cannot be satisfactorily
classed as hard or soft.

Firewood tends to be sold by volume rather than weight. Assuming that the
wood is reasonably dry, the weight of a square metre of good hardwood may
be double of that of a square metre of softwood. This means that the same
volume of hardwood will provide you with more fuel to burn than an equal
amount of softwood, simply because it contains more substance.

(N.B. The price of hardwood will normally not be double that of softwood,
because it took the same amount of labour to prepare. So, if a trailer full of
hardwood costs more than the same size trailer full of softwood, the more
expensive option may well be the most economical.)

The other advantage of good hard firewood’s are that the cooker does not
need to be fed as often and the charcoal-beds made by the glowing wood
may burn more easily overnight.

However, the ideal situation would be to have a store of both hard and soft
woods, because the softer woods also have distinct advantages. They light
more easily than the slower burning hardwoods and if the softwoods are dry,
they create a hotter, more intense fire. The draught created by the hotter
fire moves the air up the chimney faster.

After reading the notes opposite about the burning process, you will
understand that means less pollution in the form of smoke and less creosote
condensation in your chimney.

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The denser hardwoods tend to smoulder more easily when the fire is first lit,
so their flue gas temperature will be much cooler.

Because softwoods like pine and larch contain a lot of resins and pitch, a
popular misconception is that they will fur up the chimney with creosote
more easily than a hardwood like oak. This is not necessarily true at all. It is
not the pitch that is the problem, it's the water IN the pitch. Once the water
in the wood has evaporated, that pitch becomes high octane fuel. When dry,
softwoods burn extremely hot.

There is also the matter of seasoning to be considered. When you buy wood,
it will usually have been cut in the winter of the year you buy it. Hard woods
tend to take longer than softwoods to fully dry out.

Softwoods cut in the previous winter should, with proper storage, be ready
to burn the next autumn, whereas many hardwoods may take a bit longer
than that. Oak, for example, is very slow to dry out and ideally left for two
years. It is also possible to purchase pre seasoned wood or kiln dried wood.

Summarising we can say that it is always sensible to buy this year for next
year’s fuel supply and that it is very handy to have both soft and hardwoods.
You can use the softwoods to start a good fire and you will have additional
control over the fire (in addition to the cookers controls) by adding slower
burning wood to fast ones if you want to leave the cooker without tending it
for a while. Alternatively you can add some fast burning softwood logs to the
slower hardwood logs to instantly revive a fire, which has been neglected.

The Wood Burning Process

Understanding what happens when wood is burnt will enable you to burn
wood in a more environmentally friendly way, reduce the maintenance
required for your chimney and get more out of your wood. There are 3 stages
in the wood-burning process:

Evaporation

When you light the cooker a lot of energy will be needed at first to boil away
any moisture, which is left in the wood. Using energy to drive off excess
water in firewood robs the cooker of energy needed for an efficient and
clean burn. Also, much of the energy wasted in evaporating water is energy
that could have heated the hotplate and oven. This is a waste of wood,
money and effort. The presence of all that moisture tends to keep "putting

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out" the fire, and therefore making it burn very poorly, which tends to
produce a lot of creosote and pollution.

Emissions

As the heat of the fire intensifies, waste-gases (smoke) are released from the
wood.

Unburned smoke is emitted into the air either as pollution, or condensed in
the chimney causing creosote build-up. It takes time for the air in your
chimney to heat up. When it is still cold you get an effect similar to the
condensation of hot breath on a colder window or mirror. So when the by­products of combustion (smoke in the form of gases) exit the cooker, and
flow up into the relatively cooler chimney, condensation occurs.

The resulting residue that sticks to the inner walls of the chimney is called
creosote. Creosote is formed by unburned, flammable particulates present
in the smoke. It is black or brown in appearance. It can be crusty and flaky,
tar-like, drippy and sticky or shiny and hardened. Quite often, all forms will
occur in one chimney system.

If the wood you are using is water logged, or green, the fire will tend to
smoulder and not warm the chimney sufficiently. Wet wood causes the
whole system to be cool, and inefficient. In contrast: dry wood means a hot
fire, which results in a hot flue, and a hot flue means much less creosote
clogging up your chimney.

The cooker’s firebox is designed to operate at very high temperatures to

burn the gases and particles released from the wood, which means less air­pollution.

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Charcoal

CARING FOR YOUR ESSE

When most of the tar and gasses have burned the remaining substance is
charcoal (ash in its finer form). A hot bed of charcoals and ash can enhance
the combustion process when burning larger pieces of wood. Start with a
small fire to develop a bed of glowing embers. As the charcoal bed develops
and the cooker heats up, slowly add larger and larger pieces of wood. It takes
time to build a good charcoal bed, but it is well worth the effort. Only empty
excess ash periodically and always leave a bed of ash on which to light the
next fire. When wood burns it gives off volatile gases which contain calorific
heat value.

Your ESSE cooker is very easy to keep clean.

The hotplate helps to keep its self-clean, by carbonising cooking spills and
splashes. Just brush off the carbon dust. For stubborn stains, don’t be afraid
to use a brush on the hotplate and inside the ovens.

Splashes and spills on the vitreous enamel should be wiped away as soon as
possible, using a damp soft cloth. Micro-fibre cloths are especially good for
this. Never use a cold wet cloth on any enamelled surfaces as the thermal
shock can cause hairline cracks to form.

If spills have become baked on to the enamel, use a soap filled pad, not too
coarse, so as to avoid scratching enamel. DO NOT use oven cleaners.

Likewise the inner door panels can be cleaned with a cream cleanser or for
more stubborn marks, a soap filled pad. The linings will show marks and
discolour with use, but with regular cleaning will maintain its look for longer.

The enamelled surfaces can be cleaned with glass cleaner to help get a good
streak free shine. Any spillage of milk or fruit juices on to the enamelled
surfaces must be wiped up straight away, as the acidity may stain the front.

Some components such as the side panels are powder coated (painted) and
nothing abrasive should be used on them. Use a soap filled pad instead.

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If the cooker is finished in the ‘Matte Black’ painted finish, additional care

CLEANING THE FLUE WAY

must be taken not to use any chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Use a light
brush or lint free cloth instead.

If the cooker is not going to be used for an extended period of time, we
advise that the cooker be cleaned thoroughly, the ovens and hotplate can be
wiped over with a light coating of rapeseed oil, and the doors left slightly
ajar. If any rust does form it can be removed with a wire brush and a fresh
coating of rapeseed oil should be applied.

During the life of your cooker it may be necessary to adjust the door handles
and change the door ropes. The door handles can be adjusted using the
adjustment screw on the lift up latch part of the handle. A video on how to
adjust the door handle is on the ESSE TV section of www.esse.com.
Replacement door ropes can also be purchased form www.esse.com

Always carry out cleaning procedures when the cooker is out and has been
allowed to cool sufficiently to avoid burns. With time and experience you will
be able to gauge the intervals between flue way cleaning more accurately. It
will vary depending on the quality of your firewood and performance of your
flue. Take time to get to know your cooker and inspect it at regular intervals
for the first 6 months.

The target style hotplate can be removed using the supplied tool to allow for
cleaning of the internal flue way.

Figure 9 Hotplate Removed Showing Internal Flue Way

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It is essential to maintain the integrity and cleanliness of the flue to ensure

GUARANTEE

that your cooker continues to perform at its best. When your cooker was
installed the main flue should have been equipped with an inspection hatch;
either in the blanking plate above the cooker next to the flue pipe or in the
flue pipe itself. These hatches are designed to allow periodic access to the
flue for cleaning which should ideally be done by a chimney sweep. It is
recommended that the flue is cleaned every 12 months.

Chimneys and flues vary widely in terms of size, shape, length and
construction, but the principles of the way they work are the same. Keeping
them clean and clear is essential to maintain the optimum performance of
any wood burning appliance.

Your ESSE is guaranteed against defects arising from faulty manufacture for
2 years when supplied by an ESSE Specialist.

Upon registration of the warranty, ESSE will extend the guarantee period to
5 years from purchase. Your details must be registered with us by either
returning the completed warranty card or by completing registration on-line
at www.esse.com. The warranty must be registered within 1 month of
installation to qualify for the 5 year warranty.

The appliance must be only used for normal domestic purposes and in
accordance with our instructions, be correctly installed and serviced.

The guarantee does not cover:

 Installation
 Wear and tear
 Parts deemed to be replaceable or service parts including electrical

components that may be replaced during the normal usage of the
appliance.

 Enamel damage caused by impact, spillage, or water ingress.
 This guarantee is personal to the original purchaser and not

transferable.

 Any stove or defective part replaced shall become the Company’s

property

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INTERMITTENT USE OF YOUR COOKER

In the event of intermittent use and prolonged shutdown, it should be noted
that in some circumstances enamel may be displaced due to ingress of damp.
Whilst this is rare, it is most likely to occur in situations where the unused
cooker remains in an unheated property. There is a layer (known as the
ground coat) between the vitreous enamel surface and the cast iron. Ground
coat is porous and if exposed (e.g. after a chip in the vitreous enamel coat),
may allow damp to penetrate behind the vitreous enamel and spread
through the ground coat. Surface oxidisation of the cast iron may thereafter
occur, causing the vitreous enamel to fall off. Such damage will not be
covered by your warranty. We recommend that a light coating of petroleum
jelly be applied to any damaged areas when the cooker is not in use to help
keep out the damp, in addition to following the ‘caring for your ESSE cooker’
instructions on page 26.

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CUSTOMER CARE

In the event you should require spare parts, please order through your ESSE
dealer. If your dealer is unable to supply the parts please contact ESSE
directly via telephone [phone]) or our website, www.esse.com.

Should you have cause for dissatisfaction with your cooker, you should
contact your ESSE dealer, who will, in most instances, be able to offer you
immediate assistance. You will be required to give the following details.

 Your name, address and postcode.
 Your telephone/contact details.
 Clear and concise details of the fault.
 Model and serial number of the cooker (found behind the bottom

oven door).

 Purchase date (please note that a valid purchase receipt or

guarantee documentation is required for in-guarantee service
calls).

We will then check that we have an accurately completed warranty card, if
not then any work carried out may be charged.

We will assess the nature of the complaint and either send replacement
parts for your dealer to fit, send an engineer to inspect & report, or send an
engineer to repair. If the fault is not actually due to faulty workmanship but
some other cause such as misuse or failure to install correctly, a charge will
be made to cover the cost of the visit and any new parts required, even
during the warranty period. Home visits are made between 08.30-1700 hrs
Monday to Friday, and are arranged for either a morning or afternoon
appointment.

To dispose of the stove after the product life has expired, please observe the
following information:

 Dispose of the items correctly i.e. separate the parts to be

disposed of in material groups.

 Always dispose of items in a way that is as sustainable as possible

and that is in line with the current environmental protection,
reprocessing/recycling and disposal technology.

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ESSE Engineering Limited, Long Ing, Barnoldswick, Lancashire

BB18 6BJ

Tel. [phone], Fax: [phone]

Website and On-line Store http://www.esse.com