INSTALLATION
AND OPERATION
Solution 1.8 Insert
EB00005 Model
MANUAL
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT
Safety tested according to
ULC S628 and UL 1482 Standards
by an accredited laboratory
www.enerzone-intl.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: (418) 878-3040
Fax: (418) 878-3001
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this
manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages
arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized
sources.
45003A
Printed in Canada 19-11-2015
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS ENERZONE WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want
to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe
and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this insert as you
build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals
who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute
®
) or in Canada by WETT
(Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du
Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To reduce
the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly. Contact local
building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your
area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may need to
get a building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it is connected
to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We
recommend that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the
installation will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that
a primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be
responsible for costs associated with the use of another heating system.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of
the date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
http://enerzone-intl.com/warranty-registration.aspx
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
2 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
information we need about your stove.
Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................... 6
1 Safety Information ..................................................................... 6
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings ..................................... 6
2 General Information ................................................................... 8
2.1 Solution 1.8 Insert Specifications ........................................................................................ 8
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ............................................................... 10
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ......................................................... 10
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment .......................................................... 11
2.4.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? ............................................................................... 11
3 Fuel ........................................................................................... 12
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned ............................................................................... 12
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ............................................................................ 12
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? ............................................................................................... 12
3.2.2 Tree Species ................................................................................................................. 12
3.2.3 Log Length .................................................................................................................... 13
3.2.4 Piece Size ..................................................................................................................... 13
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood ..................................................................................................... 14
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content .............................................................................. 15
3.3 Manufactured Logs ........................................................................................................... 15
4 Operating Your Insert .............................................................. 16
4.1 Your First Fires ................................................................................................................. 16
4.2 Lighting Fires .................................................................................................................... 16
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting ............................................................................................. 16
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................................ 17
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs .......................................................................................................... 17
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters ........................................................................................................ 17
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires .................................................................................................... 17
4.3.1 General Advice .............................................................................................................. 17
4.3.2 Ash Removal ................................................................................................................. 18
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal ............................................................................................................ 18
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ............................................................................................ 19
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ......................................................................................... 19
4.4 Fan Operation ................................................................................................................... 20
4.4.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs ................................................................... 20
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 3
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ............................... 22
5.1 Insert Maintenance ........................................................................................................... 22
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance ............................................................................................ 22
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass ..................................................................................................... 22
5.1.3 Door adjustment ............................................................................................................ 23
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket ........................................................................................... 23
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .............................................................. 24
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Insert ................................................................................... 25
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance ....................................................................... 25
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ........................................................................... 25
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? ................................................................ 25
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ................................................................................................... 26
PART B - INSTALLATION ............................................................. 27
6 Pre-Installation Masonry fireplace requirements ................. 27
7 Safety Information ................................................................... 28
7.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings .............................................................. 28
7.2 Regulations Covering Insert Installation ........................................................................... 29
8 Clearances to Combustible Material ...................................... 30
8.1 Location of the Certification Label ..................................................................................... 30
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper ............................................................................ 30
8.3 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel Shelf ...................................................................... 31
8.4 Positioning the Unit ........................................................................................................... 32
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor Protector .............. 37
9 The Venting System ................................................................ 39
9.1 General ............................................................................................................................. 39
9.2 Block-Off Plate .................................................................................................................. 39
9.3 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................................ 40
9.4 Liner installation ................................................................................................................ 40
9.5 Chimney liner installation .................................................................................................. 41
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two options ......... 41
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet ...................................... 42
9.6 Minimum Chimney Height ................................................................................................. 43
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House .................................................. 43
9.7.1 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space ...................................... 43
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air ................................................................................................. 44
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses ............................................................................... 44
4 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Blower Installation .................................................. 45
Appendix 2: Installing the Optional Door Overlay ..................... 46
Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate and Decorative Trims
Installation ................................................................................ 48
Appendix 5: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ... 53
Appendix 6: Removal instructions .............................................. 56
Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List .......................... 57
ENERZONE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY ............................. 60
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 5
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1 Safety Information
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT
OPERATION.
• USING AN INSERT WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLAS S OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY
DAMAGE THE INSERT.
• OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING THE LOADING DOOR.
• THIS INSERT IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE DOOR MAY
BE OPEN ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. DO NOT LEAVE
THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING IGNITION .
ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO
START A FIRE IN THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY
FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
• DO NOT BURN:
o GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
o COAL OR CHARCOAL,
o TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
o PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
o FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
o SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
o MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
o RAILROAD TIES OR
o LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
• THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
• DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY MEANS OF GRATES, AND IRONS OR OTHER MEANS.
6 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
• SOME JURISDICTIONS IN THE USA REQUIRE A SUPPLY OF OUTDOOR COMBUSTION
AIR FOR THE INSERT. IN CANADA, AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY IS NOT REQUIRED, IF A
CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS LOCATED IN THE ROOM IN WHICH
THE INSERT IS INSTALLED. THE CO DETECTOR WILL PROVIDE WARNING IF FOR ANY
REASON THE WOOD INSERT FAILS TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY. IF YOU ARE
REQUIRED TO INSTALL AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY, WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU
ALSO INSTALL A CO DETECTOR/ALARM TO PROVIDE WARNING IF SMOKE SPILLAGE
FROM THE INSERT OCCURS.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 7
2 General Information
2.1 Solution 1.8 Insert Specifications
Fuel Type Cordwood
Test Standards (safety) ULC S628 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions) EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range* 500 to 1800 sq. ft. (46 to 167 m2)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel)
Optimum efficiency 75 %
Particulate Emissions 4.3 g/h
Test Standard (efficiency) CSA B415.1
Approximate Burn Time 5 to 6 hours
Shipping Weight 359 lb (163 kg)
Firebox Volume 1.8 cu.ft. (0.051 m3)
Maximum Log Length 20” east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter 6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material C-Cast
Mobile home approved No
34,000 BTU/h (9.96 kW/h)
65,000 BTU/h (19 kW/h)
* Burn time and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, chimney
diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate, fuels and other variables.
** The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air spaces
between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood firewood to reflect
real-world heat output. This insert is not intended to operate at its peak heat output continuously.
*** East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the ends of the logs.
8 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 9
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new Solution 1.8 wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it
is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where the
kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in this area, you will get the
maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating efficiency
and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and
basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms
of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated all winter.
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Solution 1.8 wood insert’s
firebox mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control
technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from the wood
10 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work properly if
your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3.0 of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only
materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.4.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint
coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is very
low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process
meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes
The C-Cast baffle
are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to
form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick
is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed from a
mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a
landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets
are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have
been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass
is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made of
natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a high
temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so it
should not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 11
3 Fuel
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned
• GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
• COAL OR CHARCOAL,
• TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
• PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
• FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
• MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
• RAILROAD TIES
• LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only
spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes
successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring
and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as
hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating
the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder
woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that
only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire
overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can
successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at
the same time.
12 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
3.2.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
even slightly too long make loading the insert very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to
piece.
3.2.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 13
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat
and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about
creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
• firewood takes a long time to dry
• firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood in
spring and dry it yourself
• drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
• drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
• small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
• split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
• softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
• softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked in
the open for only the summer months
• hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if
the pieces are big
• firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
• firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency
14 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
• cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
• as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow,
• bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
• dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
• split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it
is too wet,
• burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
3.3 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but be careful
burning too much of these logs at the same time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the
insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 15
4 Operating Your Insert
4.1 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components
of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can
light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you burn
hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The
smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell disappears,
your insert is ready for serious heating.
4.2 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever method
you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast produces
less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and effective ways
to start wood fires.
also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire
is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain
newspaper and place them in the firebox.
Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine kindling
on the newspaper. This kindling should be
very thin; less than 1” (25 mm). Next, place
some larger kindling pieces on the fine
kindling. Open the air control fully and light
the newspaper. If you have a tall, straight
venting system you should be able to close
the door immediately and the fire will
ignite. Once the fire has ignited, close the
door and leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED.
ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
16 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does
not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two
hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right
angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at
right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in
between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling
up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they
don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to
bottom.
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to
start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR
OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.3.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these
are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature to rise
after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For
example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework
or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching
television.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 17
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and
ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was
when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log
on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire
at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the
amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the insert
when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL
FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.3.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let the
ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but there is
still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from coming into the
room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal container,
they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a
non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes
are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the
closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this
container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOOD EN
DECK.
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards the
door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates them
near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new load
quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were to
simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it
will ignite the new load.
18 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close the
door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of flames,
the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot
accomplishes a few things:
• drives the surface moisture from the wood,
• creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
• heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
• heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire to
burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney, the result
will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the room temperature is a
little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm. Therefore, allow each
load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little before loading. Letting the
space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and effective zone heating.
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a
steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important
things happen. First, the firing rate slows down to
spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer
period of time. Second, the flow rate of exhaust
through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which
gives more time for the transfer of heat from the
exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air
setting, the flames slow down. This is your indication
that the insert is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost disappear when
you turn down the air, you have turned down the air
too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be.
With good fuel and correct air control use, the flames
should slow down, but should stay large and steady,
even as the air supply is reduced.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 19
4.4 Fan Operation
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately one hour), before turning on the
fan, since increased airflow from the fan will remove heat and affect the start-up combustion
efficiency.
NOTE: ENSURE THE FAN CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY SURFACE OF THE
INSERT TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN CORD
BENEATH THE INSERT.
Your insert’s fan is equipped with a heat sensor. Therefore, you can leave the speed control at the
desired setting. The fan will start automatically when the insert is hot and it will stop when the insert
has cooled down.
Turn the fan ON or OFF with the rheostat located on the left side
of the fan assembly below the bottom louvre. The switch settings
are Off, High (HI) and adjustable down to Low (LO).
4.4.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the insert’s heat output to the heat demand. Your
house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a comfortable temperature. If
you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat the space or turn the insert down so
much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for building fires to
match different heat demand.
4.4.1.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load them
crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. After raking the coals, you
can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox and lay two more across
them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is fully
flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather when you are around to tend the insert and
should provide enough heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good time to use
softer wood species so there will be less chance of overheating the house.
4.4.1.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat. In this
case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces are packed
tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char the log surfaces
before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn.
4.4.1.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and
brightly. This is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest pieces
20 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like this
will produce the longest burn your insert is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down too
much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn.
4.4.1.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of that
wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly the first
half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is little or no
flame. The length of burn you can expect from your insert, including both the flaming and coal bed
phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:
• firebox size,
• the amount of wood loaded,
• the species of wood you burn,
• the wood moisture content,
• the size of the space to be heated,
• the climate zone you live in, and
• the time of year.
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you are likely
to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient insert operation. When you are home
during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that might provide
three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn. Shorter burn
cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the insert to the heat demand of the space.
4.4.1.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires
In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass door
you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).
East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount of wood
you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against the glass. Eastwest loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild weather.
North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time. This
makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 21
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System
5.1 Insert Maintenance
Your new insert will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly. Some
of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes, will wear over
time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with original parts (see
Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). Firing each load hot to begin a cycle as
described above will not cause premature deterioration of the insert. However, letting the insert run
with the air control fully open for the entire burn cycles can cause damage over time. The hotter
you run the insert throughout burn cycles, the more quickly its components will deteriorate. For that
reason, never leave the insert unattended while a new load is being fired hot..
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance
If your appliance has a plated finish, use a metal polish and a soft cloth to clean it. Do not use
abrasives such as steel wool, steel pads or an abrasive cleaner for they may scratch the finish.
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry
enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will form
on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily removed
when the insert is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying. Never try to
clean the glass when the insert is hot.
In spring and fall when the insert is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light brown
stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been
smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the weather is mild, you may
find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use the technique
described above for building a fire to take the chill off the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for wood heater
glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your insert’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and how well
you are doing in operating the insert. Your goal should be clear glass with no brown stains. If you
continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel and operating procedure
needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete combustion of the wood, which also
means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around
the glass. Visit your insert retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow the instructions
below for installation.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass
is broken.
22 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
5.1.3 Door adjustment
In order for your insert to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with the
firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically to check for a good seal. The
gasket seal can be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment. To increase the pressure
on the gasket, remove one washer (A). To reduce pressure on the door, when putting a new door
gasket for example, put two washers. To adjust:
1. Unscrew the nut.
2. Remove the door latch and the key path pin (B).
3. Remove or add one washer (A) as needed. Keep the removed washer for future
adjustment.
4. Re-install the key path pin in the key-way and slide the latch along it.
5. Secure with the nut.
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door gasket
will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the condition of
the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all around the door. If the
paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter and
density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 23
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet. Remove the
old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver. Then use the
screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4” (6 mm) bead of high
temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle of the hinge side, press
the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2”
long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and
into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the insert for 24 hours.
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket is flat,
adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws (A) and clips (B) then both
metal frames (C) that holds the glass to the door frame (E). Lift out the glass (D) and pull off the old
gasket. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section of the
paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side up. Stick the
end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto the
gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of the backing and
rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place
it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the
glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass
carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken door
glass are uneven placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.
24 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass is
broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Insert
Do not attempt to clean or paint the insert when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can be wiped
down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners. To maintain the
finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood insert a brand new look by
repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine sand paper,
wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best results, use the same paint
that was originally used on the insert, which is available in spray cans. See your dealer for details.
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney liner and chimney, forming a combustible deposit
called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system it can ignite when a hot fire
is burned in the insert and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the chimney. Severe chimney
fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick
layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the chimney is mostly
clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new insert has the right characteristics to help you to
burn clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the chimney.
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It is
important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to the new
insert until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly in your
system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
It is recommended to clean thoroughly the chimney system at the end of every heating season.
During summer, the air is damper and with minimal air circulation within the stove or furnace, it can
mix with creosote and/or sooth deposits in the chimney system to form an acid that could
accelerate the corrosion process and induce premature decay of the steel. Corrosion damages are
not covered under warranty. Have your chimney system cleaned by a professional chimney sweep.
Use a plastic or steel brush.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 25
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney
fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning chimneys, you might
want to hire a professional chimney sweep
to clean and inspect the system for the first
time. After having seen the cleaning
process, you can decide if it is a job you
would like to take on.
The most common equipment used are
fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and
stiff plastic brushes. The brush is forced up
and down inside the chimney flue to scrub
off the creosote.
The chimney should be checked regularly
for creosote build-up. Inspection and
cleaning of the chimney can be facilitated
by removing the baffle.
CAUTION: OPERATION OF YOUR SOLUTION 1.8 WOOD INSERT WITHOUT THE BAFFLE
MAY CAUSE UNSAFE AND HAZARDOUS TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS AND
WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.
NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to ensure that none are broken or damaged in any
way, and replace the damaged ones. Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace
any broken or damaged ones with new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney is facilitated
by the removable baffle.
26 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
PART B - INSTALLATION
6 Pre-Installation Masonry fireplace requirements
The masonry fireplace must meet the minimum requirements found in the building code enforced
locally, or the equivalent for a safe installation. Contact your local Building Inspector for
requirements in your area. An inspection of the fireplace should include the following:
1. CONDITION OF THE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY:
The masonry fireplace and chimney should be inspected prior to installation, to determine that
they are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockage, or other signs of
deterioration. If evidence of deterioration is noted, the fireplace or chimney should be
upgraded and/or cleaned prior to installation.
Masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke shelf and
adjacent damper frame if necessary to accommodate the insert’s chimney liner, provided that
their removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce
protection for combustible materials to less than that required by the building code.
2. INSTALLATION INTO AN EXISTING FACTORY-BUILT ZERO-CLEARANCE FIREPLACE:
It is possible to install a wood insert into an existing factory-built zero-clearance fireplace.
However, there currently exists no UL or ULC standard specific to that type of installation. The
factory-built zero clearance fireplace must be listed; that is, safety certified by an accredited
certification agency. It must be suitable for use with solid fuel and nothing in the owner’s
manual must specifically prohibit the installation of a fireplace insert. When in doubt, check with
the fireplace manufacturer. The installation of the zero-clearance fireplace MUST be
thoroughly inspected by a qualified person to ensure that it still meets the manufacturer’s
specifications. The chimney must be at least 1" (25 mm) larger in diameter than the stainless
steel liner that will run from the insert flue collar to the top of the chimney termination.
Never remove parts intended to insulate the zero-clearance fireplace from combustible
material. Only readily detachable parts that are easily replaced, such as damper parts, screens,
and doors, are to be removed from the fireplace. These parts should be stored and available
for reinstallation if the insert is ever removed. Removal of any parts which render the fireplace
unfit for use with solid fuel requires the fireplace to be permanently labeled by the installer as
being no longer suitable for solid fuel until the removed parts are replaced and the fireplace is
restored to its original certified condition. Also, any air vents, grilles, or louvers that allow air
circulation around the fireplace must not be removed or blocked.
3. CHIMNEY CAPS:
Mesh type chimney caps must have provision for regular cleaning, or the mesh should be
removed to eliminate the potential of plugging.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 27
4. ADJACENT COMBUSTIBLES:
The fireplace should be inspected to make sure that there is adequate clearance to
combustibles, both exposed combustibles to the top, side, and front as well as concealed
combustibles, in the chimney and mantle area. Your local inspector should have information
on whether older fireplaces are of adequate construction.
5. OPENING SIZE:
Refer to “Minimum masonry opening” (Section 8.5) for suitable size fireplace openings.
7 Safety Information
7.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings
• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY OTHER
MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES AND/OR WEB
SITES).
• MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR MODIFYING
COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH
CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE
CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND ANSI
NFPA 211 (USA).
• CONNECT THIS INSERT ONLY TO A LISTED STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER FOR
USE WITH SOLID FUEL.
• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE ROOM.
• DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
• THE INSERT AND ITS STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER ARE TO BE INSTALLED
ONLY WITHIN A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY AND MAS ONRY FIRE PLACE CONFOR MIN G
TO BUILDING CODES FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL. DO NOT REMOVE BRICKS OR
MORTAR FROM THE EXISTING FIREPLACE WHEN INSTALLING THE INSERT.
28 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
7.2 Regulations Covering Insert Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the Solution 1.8 wood insert is
suitable for use in residential installations. The Solution 1.8 wood insert is not intended for
installation in a bedroom.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment
the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code
are to be followed in the absence of local code
and
requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and
Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are to be followed
in the absence of local code requirements.
This insert must be installed with a continuous chimney liner of 6” diameter extending from the
insert to the top of the chimney. The chimney liner must conform to the Class 3 requirements of
CAN/ULC-S635, Standard for Lining Systems for Existing Masonry or Factory-built Chimneys and
Vents, or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for New Masonry Chimneys or UL1777,
Standard for Safety for Chimney Liners.
NOTE: The Insert is not approved for use with a so-called “positive flue connection” to the clay
tile of a masonry chimney.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 29
8 Clearances to Combustible Material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to procedures set
out in safety standards ULC S628 (Canada) and UL1482 (U.S.A.). When the insert is installed so
that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not
overheat under normal and even abnormal operating conditions.
No part of the insert may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum clearances
given below.
8.1 Location of the Certification Label
Since the information given on the certification label attached to the appliance always overrides the
information published in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or
web sites), it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and compliant installation. In addition,
you will find information about your insert (model, serial number, etc.). You can find the certification
label on the side of the insert.
To access the certification label, the faceplate may need to be removed. Therefore, we
recommend that you note the insert’s serial number on this manual, since it will be needed to
precisely identify the version of the appliance in the event you require replacement parts or
technical assistance.
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper
If the fireplace's draft control system is to remain in the masonry fireplace, it must be locked open for
access of the chimney liner or removed entirely. If you remove draft control system from the masonry
hearth, you will need to install the metal plate (27009), supplied with the owner’s manual kit,
indicating that the masonry hearth has been modified. It must be secured inside the masonry hearth,
in a visible place and easy to locate.
30 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
8.3 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel Shelf
To ensure compliance of an existing mantel shelf or to install a combustible mantel shelf, refer to
table and figure below. For example, a mantel shelf with a 6’’ depth (152 mm) ((X) value) must be
installed at least 29" (737 mm) ((I) value) above the top of the insert (see figure below). Different
mantel shelf dimensions are listed in the following table. However, no combustible mantel shelf can
be installed at less than 29" (737 mm) above the top of the insert. If the depth of the mantel shelf
is not listed in the table below, add 23" (584 mm) to the depth of your mantel shelf to obtain the
safe positioning of your mantel shelf. For example, for a 9" (229 mm) mantel shelf, the safe
positioning would be 32" (813 mm) above the top of the insert (23" (584 mm) + 9" (229 mm)).
MANTEL SHELF
MAXIMUM MANTEL
SHELF DIMENSION (X)
6" / 152 mm 29" (737 mm)
8" / 203 mm 31" (787 mm)
10" / 254 mm 33" (838 mm)
12" / 305mm 35" (889 mm)
CLEARANCES
(I)
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 31
8.4 Positioning the Unit
It is necessary to have a floor protection made of non-combustible materials that meets the
measurements specified in table FLOOR PROTECTION (see Section 8.5. To determine the need
to add floor protection (D) beyond the hearth extension, you must do the following calculation using
the data in Table Data for floor protection calculation of this section: D = B - (A - C). If the value
(D) is negative or zero, you do not have to add more floor protection in front of the unit, because
the masonry fireplace hearth extension is large enough. If the value (D) is positive, you will need
floor protection in front of the hearth extension at least equivalent to the result (D).
Here is a sample calculation to determine the need to add a non-combustible materials floor
protection. For someone living in the USA whose insert would protrude 3" (76 mm) into the room
(C) the calculation would be:
Value D = B - (A - C)
Value D = 16" - (16" - 3")
Value D = 16" - 13"
Value D = 3"
Non-combustible floor protection of at least 3" (76 mm) in depth must be installed in front of the
fireplace hearth extension.
32 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
If the extension of the masonry hearth is raised at least 4" from the floor protection, a noncombustible material without an R factor is sufficient.
If non-combustible material floor protection needs to be added in front of and level with the hearth
extension of the masonry fireplace, an R factor equal to or greater than 1.00 is required.
The use of an R value is convenient when more than one material is going to be used in the hearth
extension to cover the combustible surface. This is because R values are additive, whereas K
values are not.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 33
There are two ways to calculate the R factor of the floor protection. First, by adding the R-values of
materials used, or by the conversion if the K factor and thickness of the floor protection are given.
To calculate the total R factor from R factors of the materials used, simply add the R-values of
materials. If the result is equal to or greater than the R-value requirements, the combination is
acceptable. To know the R-values of some selected materials, see table Thermal Characteristics
of Common Floor Protection Materials.
Example:
Required floor protection R of 1.00. Proposed materials: four inches of brick and one inch of
Durock
®
board
Four inches of brick (R = 4 x 0,2 = 0,8) plus 1 inch of Durock
®
(R = 1 x 0.52 = 0.52).
0.8 + 0.52 = 1.32.
This R value is larger than the required 1.00 and is therefore acceptable
In the case of a known K and thickness of alternative materials to be used in combination, convert
all K values to R by dividing the thickness of each material by its K value. Add the R values of your
proposed materials as shown in the previous example.
Example:
K value = 0.75
Thickness = 1
R value = Thickness/K = 1/0.75 = 1.33
34 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials*
MATERIAL CONDUCTIVITY (k)
PER INCH
RESISTANCE (R) PER INCH
THICKNESS
Micore® 160 0.39 2.54
Micore® 300 0.49 2.06
Durock® 1.92 0.52
Hardibacker® 1.95 0.51
Hardibacker® 500 2.3 0.44
Wonderboard® 3.23 0.31
Cement mortar 5.00 0.2
Common brick 5.00 0.2
Face brick 9.00 0.11
Marble 14.3 – 20.00 0.07 – 0.05
Ceramic tile 12.5 0.008
Concrete 1.050 0.950
Mineral wool insulation 0.320 3.120
Limestone 6.5 0.153
Ceramic board (Fibremax) 0.450 2.2
Horizontal still air** (1/8") 0.135 0,920**
* Information as reported by manufacturers and other resources
** For a 1/8" thickness. You cannot «stack» horizontal still air to accumulate R-values; you must separate each
layer of horizontal still air with another non-combustible material.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 35
When installed as an extended insert, the front edge of the air jacket will be installed flush with the
fireplace facing. Otherwise the unit can be moved back as much as
1 11/16" (43mm) or any position in
between. The position chosen will depend on your own preference for most installations, your current
configuration, the compliance with the preceding installation instructions and compliance with the
building code requirements. To determine the minimum and maximum projection of the insert, refer
to table Data for floor protection calculation.
Data for Floor Protection Calculation
MAXIMUM
EXTENDED
INCHES
MILLIMETRES
MINIMUM
EXTENDED
INCHES
MILLIMETRES
A
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
A
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
B
(Note 1)
CAN: 18"
USA: 16"
CAN: 457 mm
USA: 406 mm
B
(Note 1)
CAN: 18"
USA: 16"
CAN: 457 mm
USA: 406 mm
C D E
4 11/16" D = B - (A - C) 6 1/4"
119 mm D = B - (A - C) 158 mm
C D E
3" D = B - (A - C) 7 15/16"
76 mm D = B - (A - C) 201 mm
AIR
JACKET
Flush
with
fireplace
facing
AIR
JACKET
Back
from
fireplace
facing
1 11/16"
(43mm)
36 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor
Protector
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 37
F
G
H
I
O
CLEARANCES
13" (330 mm)
10" (254 mm)
22" (559 mm)
29" (737 mm)
1 1/2" (38 mm)
B
M
N
18’’ (457 mm) – Note1 16’’ (406 mm) – Note 1
8’’ (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)
N/A (USA only) 8’’ (203 mm)
FLOOR PROTECTION
CANADA USA
MINIMUM MASONRY
OPENING
J
K
L
21 3/8" (543 mm)
28 7/8" (733 mm)*
12 3/4" (324 mm)
Minimum floor to ceiling clearance: 84’’ (213 cm)
* Where a fresh air intake is needed, we suggest you add a minimum of 4’’ to the width of the
minimum masonry opening.
Note 1: From door opening. The depth of a non-combustible mantel in front of the insert is
included in the calculation of the floor protector’s dimensions.
IMPORTANT: The masonry hearth should be at least 4 inches (102 mm) higher than the
combustible floor in front of it. If the hearth elevation is lower than 4 inches, the noncombustible floor protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than
1.00.
38 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
9 The Venting System
9.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the liner inside the chimney, acts as the engine
that drives your wood heating system. Even the best insert will not function safely and efficiently as
intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney and liner system.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the insert into the chimney is not waste heat. This heat is
what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps smoke inside the
insert and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the flue gas as the fuel the
chimney uses to make draft.
9.2 Block-Off Plate
To reduce the possibility of a cold air draft from the masonry chimney to get into the room when the
insert in not working, the installation of a sheet metal block-off plate ((A) in the drawing below) is
recommended. Once you have made the block-off plate to the proper dimension, cut the pipe hole
slightly larger than the liner’s diameter and then install the liner through this hole. Set the Block-off
plate in place and secure with masonry nails into mortar joints. Finally, seal the joints between the
plate and the wall with high temperature silicone, and then use stove-furnace cement to seal
between the pipe and the hole.
In Canada, CSA B365 Standard permits the use of ‘’Roxul’’ type wool stuffed around the liner as it
passes through the throat area as an alternative to a sheet metal Block-off plate. However, this
method is inferior to the use of a sheet metal block-off plate.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 39
9.3 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood insert will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6-inch
diameter chimney liner. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5 inches
(Canada only) is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion gases and that such
application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the flue
should be 6 inches. The reduction of liner diameter to less than 6” should only be done if the total
height of the masonry chimney is greater than 20 feet.
9.4 Liner installation
We recommend the use of a chimney liner (rigid
or flexible) to ensure satisfactory performance.
To ensure an optimal draft, we also strongly
recommend adding a minimum of 12” rigid liner
between the top of the masonry chimney and
the rain cap. In all cases, liners should be
installed in accordance with the liner
manufacturer’s instructions, including
instructions for extension above the masonry.
Use Listed Chimney Liners – UL 1777,
CAN/ULC S635 and CAN/ULC S640.
In order to connect the insert to the liner, refer
to Section 9.5 Chimney liner installation.
ATTENTION INSTALLER: When positioning
the unit in a fireplace opening prior to the flue
installation, install the insert into the opening
until the top lip of air jacket is flush with
fireplace facing.
If lag-bolts or anchors are to be used to secure
the insert, the hole locations should be marked
with the unit in place. Remove the insert and
locate the anchors.
40 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
9.5 Chimney liner installation
The preferred methods for installing the chimney liner are found in Section 9.5.1. Use a liner offset
adapter (Section 9.5.2) only as a last resort.
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two
options
A) Install the chimney liner starter adapter, provided with the chimney liner. Follow the
chimney liner starter adapter manufacturer's instructions.
In order to connect the chimney liner starter adapter to the flue outlet, you can install the
brackets with the screws that are in the owner’s manual kit.
Using a powered driver, secure the three brackets with the three screws provided (30131)
on top of the insert in the three holes in front of the flue outlet. The long end of the brackets
must be attached to the insert. Insert the chimney liner into the flue collar of the unit and
secure the liner to the brackets with three self-tapping screws (not included).
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 41
B) Your dealer may offer a liner fastening system (AC02006), sold separately. Follow the
installation instructions provided with the liner fastening system.
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet
You can install a liner offset adapter (AC01370), which is sold separately. Please note that
an offset adaptor reduces the free flow of exhaust gases and may result in smoke roll-out
from the insert when it’s door is opened for loading. Only use an offset adaptor if a) there is
no other alternative and b) if the total height of the fireplace and chimney is at least 20 feet.
If you must install a liner offset adapter, secure the three brackets with the three screws
provided (30131) on top of the insert in the three holes in front of the flue outlet. The long
end of the brackets must be attached to the insert. The brackets and screws are in the
insert’s owner’s manual kit. Then follow the instructions in the manual provided with the
liner offset adapter kit.
42 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
9.6 Minimum Chimney
Height
The top of the chimney should be tall
enough to be above the air
turbulence caused when wind blows
against the house and its roof. The
chimney must extend at least 1 m (3
ft.) above the highest point of contact
with the roof, and at least 60 cm (2
ft.) higher than any roof line or
obstacle within a horizontal distance
of 3 m (10 ft.).
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the
right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when there is no fire in
the insert, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is opened for loading.
9.7.1 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency of
warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it produces a
slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly positive pressure
zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a chimney that is shorter
than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure low in the house will compete
against the desired upward flow in the chimney.
There are two reasons why the chimney
in the house at right will cold backdraft
when it is cold outside and there is no fire
burning in the insert. First, the chimney
runs up the outside of the house, so the
air in it is colder and denser than the
warm air in the house. And second, the
chimney is shorter than the heated space
of the house, meaning the negative
pressure low in the house will pull outside
air down the chimney, through the insert
and into the room. Even the finest insert
will not work well when connected to this
chimney.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 43
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood inserts are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors
because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against house
depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to protect
against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon monoxide (CO)
detector/alarm is required in the room where the insert is installed. The CO detector will provide
warning if for any reason the wood insert fails to function correctly.
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood insert is from the room in
which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is
not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almost
all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of air
needed by the insert. The only case in which the wood insert may not have adequate access to
combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)
causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors.
If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house, be aware that its pressure can be
affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in wood insert performance in windy weather,
and in particular if smoke puffs from the insert, you should disconnect the outdoor air duct from the
insert and remove the duct. In some windy conditions, negative pressure at the duct weatherhood
outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the insert backwards through the duct to
outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full system is cleaned and
inspected at least once each year.
44 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Blower Installation
First, attach the fan assembly to the insert
by aligning and inserting the hooks on each
side of the blower housing into the slots
located on the left and right of the blower
opening below the loading.
To assemble the ash lip, open the door to
facilitate the installation. Center the ash lip
with the fan assembly previously installed
and push it against the firebox. Then push
down the rear fold of the ash lip so it clips
into the two (2) brackets welded to the
firebox located below the loading door.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 45
Appendix 2: Installing the Optional Door Overlay
In order to complete the assembly of your Solution 1.8 wood insert, you need to install the door
overlay. See figure below for installation instructions:
Position the overlay (A) on the door
frame and secure it from the inside of the
door using the 4 included screws (B).
To facilitate the installation, do not tighten
the screws until they are all installed.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the
glass or any other component to install
the overlay
46 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 3: Installing the Optional Fresh Air intake Adapter
(AC01298)
Note: Only remove the knock-out that will be connected to the fresh air inlet.
To install a fresh air intake to the insert, the purchase of accessory AC01298 adapter is required.
Using pliers, remove the rectangular knockout plate (A) located on the left or right side
of the convection air jacket. Choose the side
that is best for your installation.
Then, install the fresh air kit adapter (B) using
4 screws (C). Secure the flexible pipe (E)
(part #AC02090 not supplied) to the adapter
(B) using one of the adjustable pipe clamps
(D). Secure the other end of the pipe to the
outside wall termination (F) using the second
adjustable pipe clamp (D). The outside wall
termination (F) must be installed outside of
the building.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 47
Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate and Decorative Trims
Installation
Note: The illustrations may vary from one model to another, but the method of assembly remains
the same.
Remove the faceplate panels from its box and the faceplate extension secured between the firebox
and the convection air jacket.
Place the faceplate panels with the finished side down on a flat, soft, non-abrasive surface and
follow the installation instructions below;
Hardware bag content:
8 - #10-24" x 1/2" bolts 2 - Corner bracket and screws
8 - Trim retainer 8 - #10-24" hex nuts
Line up the holes of the upper faceplate
panel (A) with the holes of the side
panels (B) and (C). Secure them together
using four (4) bolts (D) and nuts (E)
provided.
48 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Partially thread the screws (F) on the
trim's corner bracket (G) then
superimpose the corner brackets (G) and
(H) as shown in the image on the left.
Insert the superimposed brackets (G) and
(H) with the screws (F) in the groove of
each decorative trim (I), (J) and (K). Align
the corners of the angled side of each
trim, and then tighten the screws (F) to
secure the trims.
Enclose the decorative inserts (L) from
behind the lower parts of the faceplate.
The decorative inserts are included in the
owner’s manual.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 49
Align the trim assembly (M) with the left
and right edge of the faceplate and slowly
slide it down over the faceplate.
Secure the trim to the faceplate by
squeezing the eight trim retainers (N)
between the inner edge of the trim and
the front of the faceplate. As in the
image on the left.
50 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Then align the holes in the
faceplate extension (O) with the
holes in each faceplate side panels
and secure both assembly
together using four (4) bolts (D)
and nuts (E).
Center the insert into the fireplace
opening and bring the faceplate
assembly close to the appliance.
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 51
Align the notch in the faceplate extension
with the bolt (P) welded to the middle of the
air jacket. Adjust the faceplate to the
desired depth. Using a 7/16" (11 mm) open
end wrench, secure the assembly from
under the air jacket extension with a
washer (Q) and a nut (R).
If necessary, adjust the height of the insert
using the leveling bolts on each side of the
convection air jacket until the faceplate is
properly seated on the floor of the hearth
extension.
52 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 5: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle
LETTER DESCRIPTION QUANTITY
A
B
C
D
E
F
BAFFLE HOLDER 1
SECONDARY AIR TUBE 3
COTTER PIN 3
C-CAST BAFFLE 1
INSULATION BLANKET 1
INSULATION BLANKET WEIGHT 1
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 53
1. Starting with the rear tube, lean and insert
the right end of the secondary air tube into
the rear right channel hole.
2. Align the notch in the left end of the tube
with the key of the left air channel hole.
3. With a pair of pliers, secure the tube with a
cotter pin.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 for each tube. Put
back the baffle in place before installing the
front tube.
5. To remove the tubes use the above steps in
reverse order.
54 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Note that front and middle secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle
board (B).
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model Type of tube
Solution 1.8 insert
Front ► 40 holes of 0.156"
Middle ► 80 holes of 0.109"
Rear ► 80 holes of 0.109"
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 55
Appendix 6: Removal instructions
For the purpose of inspecting the insert itself or the fireplace, your insert may need to be removed.
To remove your insert follow these instructions:
Remove the blower (A)
Using a 7/16” wrench, unscrew the nut (D) holding the faceplate extension (C) to the insert.
Remove the faceplate assembly (B) and the faceplate extension (C) together.
Remove the screws securing the pipe connector (E) holding the stove pipe in place.
Slightly unscrew the levelling bolts (F) located on each side of the insert.
Move the insert to perform maintenance.
56 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 57
IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts for
your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to
change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain any
of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor
performance and safety hazards.
# Item Description Qty
1 AC01252 GOLD CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY 1
1 AC01254 NICKEL CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY 1
1 AC01250 BLACK CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY 1
2 30123 SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/8'' PAN QUADREX ZINC 6
3 AC07868 1/2 " BLACK COIL HANDLE 1
4 SE53580 BLACK CAST IRON DOOR WITH GASKET 1
5 AC09170 REMPLACEMENT HANDLE AND LATCH KIT 1
6 30205 ZINC WASHER ID 13/32" X OD 13/16" 2
7 30533 LATCH KEY PATH PIN 1
8 30033 STEEL DOOR LATCH 1
9 30224 LOCKNUT 3/8"-16 HEX 1
10 AC06500 SILICONE AND 5/8" X 8' BLACK GASKET KIT 1
11 SE53582 REPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 9 13/16" X 17 3/32" 1
12 AC06400 BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET (6') 1
13 PL53583 GLASS RETAINER FRAME 2
14 SE53585 GLASS RETAINER KIT WITH SCREWS (12 PER KIT) 1
15 30124 SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/16'' TRUSS QUADREX ZINC 6
16 PL53550G BRASS "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT 4
16 PL53554 NICKEL "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT 4
16 PL53554G BRASS "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT 4
16 PL53550 NICKEL "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT 4
17 PL53871 LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL 1
18 PL53870 RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL 1
19 PL53869 FACEPLATE EXTENSION 1
20 PL34052 LINER FIXATION BRACKET 3
21 30337 SQUARE HEAD SET SCREW 1/2-13 X 1-3/4" 2
22 AC01298 FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT - OVAL 5" DIAMETER 1
23 PL53529 AIR CONTROL PLATE 1
24 30187 ZINC WASHER ID 17/64" x OD 1/2" 1
25 30206 ZINC WASHER ID=5/16" x OD=3/4" 1
26 30064 3/16" X 1" CLEVIS PIN 1
27 30059 5/32" ID PUSHNUT 2
28 30060 THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 x 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC 1
29 SE53608 AIR CONTROL ROD ASSEMBLY 1
30 30102 1/4'' CAST IRON AIR CONTROL HANDLE 1
58 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
# Item Description Qty
31 44085 RHEOSTAT KNOB 1
32 SE53632 INSERT BLOWER ASSEMBLY 120 CFM 115V 1
33 44087 RHEOSTAT NUT 1
34 44080 RHEOSTAT WITH NUT 1
35 44046 THERMODISC F110-20F 1
36 44089 DOUBLE CAGE BLOWER 120CFM 115V - 60Hz - 1.1A 1
37 60013 POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT 1
38 PL53634 INSERT ASH PLATE 1
39 30441 ENERZONE LOGO 1
40 30076 SEALING STEEL "POP" RIVET 1/8" X 3/8" 2
41 AC01280 REGULAR FACEPLATE (29" X 44") 1.8-1 1
41 AC01282 LARGE FACEPLATE (32" X 50") 1.8-I 1
42 SE15097 FACEPLATE HARDWARE KIT 1
43 PL53878 FACEPLATE ORNEMENT 1.8 (29 X 44) 1
44 PL53629 FACEPLATE DECORATIVE PLATE 1
45 OA10121 BRASS REGULAR FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (29" X 44") 1
45 OA10129 BRUSHED NICKEL FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (32" X 50") 1
45 OA10127 BRASS LARGE FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (32" X 50") 1
45 OA10128 BLACK LARGE FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (32" X 50") 1
45 OA10123 BRUSHED NICKEL FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (29" X 44") 1
45 OA10122 BLACK REGULAR FACEPLATE TRIM KIT (29" X 44") 1
46 SE45003 OWNER MANUEL ENERZONE INSERTS 1
47 29001 4'' X 8'' X 1 1/4'' REFRATORY BRICK HD 15
48 29020 4 1/2'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 1
49 PL36026 3" X 8" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 4
50 PL36024 1 7/8" X 4 1/2" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK 1
51 PL53533 FRONT BAFFLE SUPPORT 1
52 PL53516 FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1
53 PL53517 REAR OR MIDDLE SECONDARY AIR TUBE 2
54 30068 STAINLESS STEEL COTTER PIN 1/8" X 1 1/2" 3
55 21347 C-CAST BAFFLE 20 1/2" X 9" X 1 1/4" 1
56 21037 23 1/2'' x 10 1/2'' x 1/2'' BAFFLE INSULATION 1
57 PL34026 BAFFLE INSULATION WEIGHT 1
Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual 59
ENERZONE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original consumer purchaser and is not transferable.
This warranty covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since
shipment from factory. Products covered under this warranty must have been manufactured after the revision
date indicated below. Proof of purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied
when making any warranty claim to your ENERZONE dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper
installation, lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power
failures, downdrafts, or venting problems are not covered by this warranty.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage
caused by the use of unauthorized parts or others than original parts void this warranty. An authorized
qualified technician must perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this
product and all local and national building codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not
covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to
support the claim. Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. If a
product is found to be defective, the manufacturer will repair or replace such defect. Transportation fees to
ship the product back to the purchaser will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the
warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified technician requires the prior
approval of the manufacturer. Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on
predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the wholesale price of the replacement part. All parts and
labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.
The manufacturer at its discretion may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and
investigation of the defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect
to this warranty by refunding the wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer
shall in no event be responsible for any special, indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in
excess of the original purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts
benefiting from a lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to products purchased after October 1
DESCRIPTION
Combustion chamber (welds only), castings, convector air-mate,
ceramic glass (thermal breakage only*), and secondary air tubes*.
Plating* (defective manufacture) – subject to limitations above. Lifetime n/a
Stainless steel firebox components, surrounds and heat shields, ash
drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions), C-Cast
baffle*, and vermiculite baffle*.
Carbon steel firebox components, glass retainers, and handle
assembly.
Blowers, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls. 2 years 1 year
Paint (peeling), gaskets, insulation, firebrick, and ceramic fibre
blankets.
*Pictures required
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your ENERZONE dealer. Prior to your call
make sure you have the following information necessary to your warranty claim treatment:
Your name, address and telephone
number;
Bill of sale and dealer’s name;
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain from your
ENERZONE dealer an Authorization Number. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without
authorization will be refused automatically and returned to sender.
Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
WARRANTY APPLICATION
PARTS LABOUR
Lifetime 4 years
5 years 3 years
3 years 2 years
1 year n/a
st
, 2011.
60 Solution 1.8 Insert Installation and Operation Manual
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