Emseal Centaur Assembly & Operators Manual

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Assembly & Operators Manual

Ph : +61-3 9874 6155 Fax: +61-3 9874 8528

Sales@emseal.com.au

6-8 Azalea Street Vermont, Victoria 3133 AUSTRALIA

www.emseal.com.au

DISCLAIMER

Emseal Pty Ltd has taken care to ensure the accuracy of the information

presented, however accuracy is not guaranteed.

Emseal Pty Ltd can not be held liable for any errors or omissions from the following manual. If in doubt about any of the following procedures, please contact us before proceeding.

Rollers : As rollers are the most important part of the machine, damage caused by misuse or unsuitable objects being passed through the rollers is not covered by warranty.

Index

01 - About the Centaur 02 - Assembling the mobile stand 03 - parts and safety tips 04 - Setup 05 - The control panel / caring for your laminator 06 - Thermal laminating introduction 07 - Loading thermal film 08 - Pressure sensitive film introduction (optional extra) 09 - Loading pressure sensitive film 12 - Heat assist mode - double sided adhesive 13 - Selecting film - an introduction to laminating 14 - Preparing items for laminating 15 - Film tension adjustment 16 - Troubleshooting 19 - Adjusting roller pressure

The centaur laminator is a hybrid hot shoe / hot roller laminator, combining the best features of both types of laminators. It provides very high quality, scratch free thermal laminating and pressure sensitive laminating.

The Centaur is designed to provide years of trouble free service, however it is important that you

read this manual first in order to familiarise yourself with this machine.

About the Centaur

Page 1 of 20

Warranty Information

The Centaur laminator’s warranty is against failure of components or workmanship, but does not cover damage caused by misuse or accident.

Rollers : As rollers are the most vulnerable part of the machine, damage caused by misuse or unsuitable objects being passed through the rollers is not covered by warranty.

In the event of a warranty claim, please contact your dealer for assistance.

Using the spanner provided, attach the stringers to the leg of the trolley, making sure the tooth washers supplied have been used. DO NOT fully tighten the bolts yet. Attach the cross brace if supplied. Once the bolts have been tightened, attach the other leg. Once this has been done, check again that all bolts are tight, and that the trolley isstable.

Holes for reinforcing brace to rear of trolley

Assembling the mobile stand.

Page 2 of 20

IMPORTANT SAFETY ADVICE

On top of each side of the stand is a hole for the securing bolts. These line up with securing holes underneath the laminator.

Once the laminator is on the stand and aligned with the holes, firmly bolt it to the stand as shown. It is important to do this before the machine is moved on the stand.

This stand is not designed for use on rough or angled surfaces, and should be moved by two people at all times. Lock the castors when in use.

6 x stringer bolts with washers

2 x machine bolts 1 x Spanner

front

top

1 Pair stand legs with castors 3 x Stringer bars

Page 3 of 20

Centaur parts

In the box you will find 2 or 3 Mandrels (depending on options) Load plate Mobile stand components Tool kit Manual

Safety Tips

Always lift from the base of the machine, never from the idler bar.

Always secure the machine to the stand with the securing bolts.

When moving the machine, have two people to push the mobile stand.

Move the mobile stand slowly.

Do not move the machine across very rough or sloping surfaces.

Do not leave power cords where people may trip on them.

Be careful of loose items such as ties, jewellery and long hair near the rollers.

Keep hands and fingers clear of the rollers when running.

Keep the work area clean to avoid the risk of tripping.

Page 4 of 20

Parts of the Centaur

Setting up the Centaur

Control Panel Rollers Feed table Emergency Stop switch Upper mandrel Lower mandrel

7. Idler bars

8. Rewind mandrel

Positioning the Centaur

It is important to select an appropriate work area for the Centaur. The following are guidles to selecting the best position.

Make sure the work area is well lit and ventilated.

Keep the machine out of drafts such as air conditioners, open windows and doorways. Drafts will cool the film during thermal lamination and cause poor results.

Try to keep the machine in a clean environment. Dust will cause noticeable marks on laminated items.

Make sure that the front and back of the machine are easily accessible. The laminated items leaving the back of the machine should be able to either fall to the floor or exit onto a table

Keep power cords and the footswitch cable out of the way to avoid tripping.

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Unpacking the Centaur

1. Remove the mobile stand from the box and assemble as shown in in the instructions.

2. Lift the laminator from the box. At least two people are required to lift this machine. Remember to bend your knees when lifting.

3. Remove the plastic covering. Place the laminator on the mobile stand and attach the securing bolts.

DO NOT LIFT BY IDLER BARS OR ROLLERS - THIS WILL CAUSE

DAMAGE AND VOID WARRANTY. ALWAYS LIFT FROM BOTTOM OF SIDE CASES.

Page 5 of 20

Caring for your laminator

Don’t leave hard items on the feed table, if they are pulled into the rollers they will cause extensive non-warranty damage to the rollers.

Don’t cut against the rollers. Any sharp instrument should be used with extreme caution, as the rubber rollers are easily damaged with knives.

Laminate only flat and even items.

If dirty, rollers may be cleaned with a small amount of Kerosene on a soft cloth. Do not use a scouring pad or abrasive cleaners. Do not soak the rollers with kerosene.

Do not use excessive brake pressure - you should be able to turn the rolls of film with one hand.

Do not leave the laminator on for extended periods if it is not being used. Turn the temperature control off when the machine is not to be used for more than an hour.

Keep the temperature below 160 degrees celsius / 320 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher temperatures will cause damage to the rollers.

Never cut against

the rollers.

The Control Panel

Speed control

Foot / Continuous switch (if fitted)

Forward / Reverse

Cooling Fans

Temperature control

Heat indicator.

Adjusts the motor speed. Clicks into `off’ position when turned all the way counter clockwise

Allows you to select footswitch mode or continuous motor mode. In footswitch mode, the rollers only turn when the foot switch is depressed.

Reverse is mainly used in the unlikely event of a film wrap up. Do

not change from forward to reverse while the motor is in operation.

Cooling fans are used to prevent distortion during thermal laminating. If no footswitch is fitted, this will be in position 2.

A simple thermostat control - dial the required temperature and wait for the heat indicator to turn off.

This light will be on while the machine is heating, and off once it reaches temperature. It will turn on and off during normal operation as the thermostat maintains temperature.

The theory - Thermal laminating film

Thermal laminating, also known as encapsulation, is the original and most common form of laminating. Its popularity is due to it’s low cost, and the durability and protection it provides to the laminated item.

Thermal laminating film consists of a layer of plastic, usually polyester, which is then coated in a heat sensitive adhesive. This adhesive melts when heated, and adheres to whatever it is pressed against. Once cooled, it forms a flexible and watertight bond to the laminated item. This process is usually irreversible - once the adhesive has stuck to the item, it cannot be removed.

The Centaur’s heated upper roller provides a perfect scratch free finish.

The built in cooling fans are to be used during thermal lamination to prevent distortion of a laminated item during cooling. Rapid cooling of the item as it passes between the front and rear rollers is the best method of preventing distortion and curling, particularly if laminating thick items or using thick films.

Page 6 of 20

Thermal laminating - introduction

This loading diagram illustrates the film

path, and the parts of the laminator.

Upper Supply roll

Lower Supply roll

Upper Idler Bar Upper Heated Roller

Lower Roller Heater Bar

Lower idler bar

Page 7 of 20

Thermal laminating - loading

Step 1

The most critical thing to remember during loading is that the film must be loaded so that the adhesive always faces away from the rollers. The non adhesive side is the only side that can touch

the rollers. Allowing the adhesive side to come in contact with the rollers may cause film wrap ups and roller damage.

If you are using a gloss film, the non shiny side is the adhesive side. Some film comes with a sticker indicating the adhesive side.

Take the mandrel with the large pulley, and load it so that the film unwinds from the back, with the matt side facing you. Load this mandrel onto the laminator. Now take the lower mandrel and load the film so that the matt side comes up from the rear, with the matt side facing you.

Step 2

Adjust the thermostat to the temperature recommended by the film manufacturer. This is most likely around 120C / 250 F. Heat up time is around 5 minutes. This will give you time to position the film so that you are ready to load.

Pull the film from the top roller so that it passes under the top idler bar, and lies across the top roller.

Step 3

Pull the film around the lower idler bar, and bring it up so that it lays over the top roller and the film. By now the machine should be well on the way to being hot enough to laminate.

Once the machine is hot enough, the film will become clear where it is contacting the heater bar and upper roller, and the thermostat lamp will go out.

Upper film roll

Lower film roll

This shows the non standard rewind pulley from the pressure sensitive laminating option.

When a roll of film comes to an end, you don’t need to repeat the entire loading process to reload the laminator.

1. Cut off the film near the idler bar. TAKE EXTREME CAUTION NOT TO DAMAGE THE ROLLERS!

2. Load the new roll of film onto the mandrel.

3. Pull the film through and lay it against the old film which is laid over the roller. Allow the machine to heat, then stick the layers together.

4. Select the motor mode required if available - foot switch control or continuous. Turn on the motor, and let the film be pulled through the rollers. You are now ready to laminate!

Page 8 of 20

Step 4

If installed, switch the laminator to `foot’ control mode and set the speed control to a low speed.

Take the plastic load plate and position it in the nip of the rollers. Press the foot switch or turn on the speed control, and push the load plate gently into the machine. The rollers will grip the load plate and pull it, and the film, through the laminator. Allow it to pass through the rollers and exit the back, then cut it free. The film can easily be peeled from it. Ensure

that the top and bottom rolls are aligned, to avoid adhesive contacting the rollers.

Step 5

The brake pressure can be increased slightly to help the film run straight. Excessive brake pressure may cause problems - make sure you can always easily turn the rolls of film with one hand. For more information, see the machine tuning section. The initial wrinkles from loading will quickly pull straight, and the film will look even and clear. Excess wrinkles or too much tension required to pull out wrinkles may indicate faulty or poor quality film. Always test laminate some scrap paper before comitting valuable work to be laminated.

Thermal laminating - loading

Thermal laminating - reloading

Congratulations, you are now ready to laminate!

Film is cut, old roll is removed.

New film pressed to old film. Film is then pulled through rollers.

Page 9 of 20

Pressure sensitive laminating - introduction

REQUIRES OPTIONAL TOP REWIND

Release Paper

Adhesive layer Plastic layer

The theory - Pressure sensitive film

Cold or Pressure Sensitive laminating involves using a self adhesive film, usually with a release paper. This has the advantage of being able to stick to difficult to laminate items, such as some inkjet prints or similar media.

Laminating with pressure sensitive film

involves removing the protective layer of release paper from the film, and then pressing the adhesive layers firmly to the item being laminated. This firmly bonds the film to the surface of the item, resulting in lasting protection.

Most laminating done with pressure sensitive laminates is single sided, as the cost of double sided lamination is expensive.

Underlay paper

Underlay is the term used to describe an inexpensive paper material which feeds into the machine below the laminated item. Its sole purpose is to prevent the adhesive on the pressure sensitive film coming into contact with the rubber rollers during single sided laminating.

Cheap paper or plastic of most types can be used. It should be wider than the pressure sensitive film, and not easily stretched. When the laminated item is trimmed flush to the edges, the underlay will fall off and can be discarded.

This illustrates how a cross section of pressure sensitive

film would appear.

Release paper peeled back

to reveal adhesive.

This loading diagram illustrates the film

path, and the parts of the laminator.

Upper Supply roll

Underlay paper

Upper Idler Bar

Rewind core

Lower Roller Heater Bar

Lower idler bar

Page 10 of 20

Step 1

Make sure the thermostat is set to 0. Load the rolls as shown. Makre sure that the film side of the laminate is against the table, with the release paper facing upwards.

The core adapters on the mandrel are designed to slide into the roll, but grip when the core turns. Rotating the mandrel slightly left and right as you slide it into the core can help make this easier.

Step 2 Position the rolls as shown on in the diagram on page 9.

Step 3

Pull the film from the supply roll forward, passing under the chrome idler bar. It should now be lying across the top roller, with the release paper facing upwards and the laminate lying against the roller.

Separate the release paper from the film, and attach it to the core. You can use adhesive tape or a stapler.

The exposed film should be lying on the top roller, with the adhesive facing towards you,

Film travels under chrome idler bar.

Release paper attached

to rewind core.

Pressure sensitive laminating - loading

Supply mandrel

Loop belt around small pulley and stretch to top of large pulley.

Rotate the large pulley to stretch the belt into the pulley groove.

The belt is now in position and the rewind function is now ready for use.

Underlay paper

Rewind Core

Step 4 - The rewind belt

Page 11 of 20

Step 5

Pull the underlay around the lower chrome idler bar, and then bring it up so that it comes in contact with the exposed adhesive. Underlay does not always need to pass behind the lower idler bar.

Press the underlay to the adhesive so that the they are both stuck firmly together.

Check the brakes on both rolls, they should only be lightly applied so that the rolls can be easily turned with one hand.

Step 6

Set the motor to a low speed setting, and `footswitch’ mode if you prefer this.

Take the plastic load plate, and push it between the rollers as you run the motor at a low speed. The film and underlay will both be pulled through the laminator, and pass out the back.

Remove the load plate from the film, and slowly run the film until it pulls straight.

Position the feed table on the front of the machine so it is securely placed.

Push the load plate into the turning rollers.

Pressure sensitive laminating - loading

Film with backing paper Film removed from backing paper Underlay paper

Supply roll

Rewind mandrel

Upper idler bar

Rollers

Lower Idler

Lower supply roll Underlay roll

Loading Diagram

Press underlay to film. Paper will stick to the film.

Double sided adhesive

Heat Assist mode

Film with backing paper Film removed from backing paper Double sided adhesive film

Lower Idler

Double sided adhesive

Loading Diagram

Double sided adhesive film can be used for items that are to be laminated and then mounted, or for making self adhesive stickers.

This can be done as a single process when using pressure sensitive film, or as a separate process.

To use double sided adhesive, load the laminator as shown in the previous section, but instead of loading an underlay film, load the roll of double sided adhesive.

As always, ensure the adhesive faces away from the rollers.

It is important not to pass the double sided adhesive behind the idler bar, as it will stick and require a difficult clean up.

Laminate as normal. Once finished, you will be able to peel the backing paper from the adhesive as required.

If you wish to apply a double sided adhesive to an item, but not laminate it at the same time, load an underlay film in place of the pressure sensitive film. Pass the item through the laminator. Once it is done, cut to the edges and remove the underlay paper.

Pressure sensitive laminates work best when warm, as the adhesive is softened. If you are not already operating in a warm climate, you can turn the thermostat to a warm temperature in order to improve the quality of the adhesion, and prevent the silver flecking effect caused by air bubbles.

This improvement can be quite noticeable, particularly in a cold environment. The rollers should be warm, but not so hot you can’t leave your hand on them, as this may melt the film.

An appropriate temperature for use in heat assist mode would be around 40-60 C / 104-140 F.

Page 12 of 20

Pressure sensitive laminating became popular with the advent of wide format inkjet printers, many of which use silicon oils when printing. Thermal laminate will often stick poorly, or not at all, when trying to laminate some of these types of prints. If you prefer to laminate an inkjet print with thermal film, it is recommended that you test laminate a sample of the same paper and ink used first. Also note that the drier the ink, the better the adhesion.

The choice between Thermal or Pressure sensitive laminate depends on many factors : Do you require full encapsulation? Will the item to be laminated accept thermal adhesive? Is the paper or ink suited to heat exposure?

Page 13 of 20

An introduction to laminating

Thermal or Pressure Sensitive laminating?

Selecting laminating film

The Centaur is designed to provide reliable high quality laminating on a wide range of film thicknesses and for many different types of paper. When laminating you may encounter a wide variety of items to be laminated, on many different grades of paper and in conditions ranging from brand new to old and damaged.

Laminating is much the same for thermal and pressure sensitive applications. The following section shows how to laminate, with explanations where the process differs for thermal and pressure sensitive laminating.

If you are an experienced operator of laminating machines, much of the following information will already be known to you. If you are a first time reader, we strongly recommend that you carefully read the following and make sure you understand the process involved. While laminating is not tremendously difficult, it is important to understand the technique involved.

If you are new to laminating, you should expect that there may be some losses during your first experience with the laminator. Consider this the cost of training yourself to be a good operator, and don’t begin laminating with an expensive print! Practicing laminating with a few sheets of newspaper will pay for itself as you gain experience.

Whether you are laminating using thermal or pressure sensitive film, it is recommended that you always use a high quality laminating film.

High grade film behaves more predictably during laminating, and gives a much better result. Very low priced film may seem attractive, but can cause problems, loss of items being laminated and excess wastage due to difficulty in tuning the machine to run the film properly.

A more expensive film will often be as economical as a cheap film, as it can be tuned easily, will run predictably and result in less wastage.

Thermal film

Pressure sensitive film

Maps, posters, charts Some inkjet prints Some photographs

Heat sensitive items - wax print, plastics Inkjet papers and inks Vinyl lettering

Page 14 of 20

Preparing items for laminating

Down to business - laminating

The very best item to laminate is a thick paper which is dry, and very flat. Of course, not all items to be laminated will be like this, and you will most likely find yourself handling rolled items, very thin paper, items which have been creased or folded, and very recent prints which are still damp.

While an item which has been tightly rolled will laminate perfectly, you may wish to flatten it by rolling it in the opposite direction. At the very least, it is a good idea to flatten the leading edge of the item so that it will feed evenly into the rollers.

Ensure that items to be laminated are free of dust and debris. Make sure that there are no staples or paper clips attached to the item, as these may damage the rollers.

Set the machine to the required temperature if thermal laminating, and wait for it to reach temperature.

Thermal laminating

Switch the laminator to a low speed, and to foot mode. Hold the item on the feed table

in front of the rollers.

Take your time to position the item.

Prolonged exposure to heat will cause expansion and buckling of the item. Do not take too long before feeding the item into the rollers.

Pressure sensitive laminating :

Depress the foot pedal, and slide the leading edge of the item into the rollers. The two most important points are :

The leading edge must be flat and level You must move the item slower than the film is being

drawn through the rollers.

The item will begin to be drawn into the laminator.

not stop the rollers, as this can leave a mark.

To ensure that materials to be laminated are dry, either use a heated drying cabinet, or keep the items in an air conditioned, low humidity environment. Bear in mind that a stack of thick posters will take a lot longer to dry than one or two thin prints.

Items that are to be laminated with heat must be free of moisture to avoid distortion and steam marks. In hot climates, you may wish to wear cotton gloves to avoid marks from sweating hands.

As the item is drawn into the laminator, you will need to use both hands to stretch it back and hold it flat.

Some materials will be more prone to buckling. During thermal lamination, some materials will require very firm stretching as they expand with heat. Thicker materials will not require so much.

If the leading edge of the item was not fed in evenly, a lot of stretching will be required.

If you are using thermal

laminating, turn on the cooling fans before beginning.

As the item is drawn into the laminator, you can switch the machine to `continuous’ mode, and take your foot off the foot switch. Near the end of the item, be sure that it stays flat as the tail end feeds into the rollers.

If you are laminating multiple items, pick up the next item as the last item finishes feeding into the rollers. Leaving a small gap between items, feed the next item in as described above.

If you are laminating large items, be sure that they do not crush one another as they leave the machine. You may need to have an assistant separate the items as they leave the machine and lay them flat.

If all is going well, you should have now laminated your first items. If you have experienced a problem, please consult the troubleshooting guide,

Laminating - continued

Film tension adjustment - Thermal film

Film tension should never be a difficult matter. A good quality film will require little braking. A poor film will require greatly increased braking pressure.

The three rules of brake pressure are :

Brake pressure is increased by turning the tension knobs clockwise, and is reduced by turning them counter clockwise. When adjusting pressure, you should only adjust by a quarter turn at a time.

Upper and lower brake tension should be even. Film will curl towards the greater amount of brake pressure, so film that curls upwards means that there is too much brake pressure on the top roll.

Cut a semi circle shape into a piece of laminated film. This will show the film tension

The best amount of brake pressure is the smallest amount needed to acquire a good result. More brake pressure is not necessarily the answer. You must always be able to turn the film rolls with one hand, feeling only light to firm resistance.

Quick brake pressure test

Page 15 of 20

Semi circle cut in film Cut curls down :

Increase upper tension or Decrease lower tension

Cut curls up: Decrease upper tension or Increase lower tension

Problem : Film not laminating, or laminating in patches

Problem : Small round marks in laminated item

Problem : Streaks in laminated item

Problem : Creases or wrinkling of paper while laminating

Cause : Dust landing on items before / during lamination. Marks will have a speck in the center. Solution : Move to a dust free environment, gently wipe items with a lint free cloth

Cause : Moisture in the paper is turning to steam Solution : Allow item to dry, increase speed during laminating, use cooling fan at all times.

Creases and wrinkling are the most common source of problems when laminating. There are a number of causes, and a number of different types of wrinkling. This section will help identify and solve a wrinkling problem.

This may take the form of a series of horizontal or vertical

lines across the paper near the leading edge. They may stop immediately or continue through the length of the item.

Pushing material too quickly into the machine Thermal laminating - Holding material on the feed table too long allowing it to expand and buckle Not ensuring that the leading edge is perfectly flat when it enters the rollers

Take care when feeding the item into the machine. Observe the leading edge as it is pulled into the

Problem : Creases at the beginning of an item

Possible Causes :

Solution :

Cause : Film adhesive is incompatible with the material being laminated Solution : Check with your film supplier for a better film, or use pressure sensitive film

Cause : The temperature is too low for the thermal film being used Solution : Increase the temperature, double check recommended temperature for film

Cause : A draft is chilling the thermal film as it passes the heated roller Solution : Make sure the machine is out of the path of direct drafts, air conditioners, etc.

Cause : Dampness of item being laminated due to humidity or recent printing Solution : Allow the item to dry properly, then try again

Cause : Poor quality film

Solution : Obtain a high quality film. It will quickly pay for itself.

Cause : Front roller pressure is too low, insufficient pressure to laminate properly Solution : See technical section for adjustment of roller pressure (page 19)

Thermal film

Troubleshooting - laminating problems

Page 16 of 20

Problem : Arc shaped creases appear near the end

This is a faint arc that travels the width of the item. You may also notice the item becoming slack as it is fed into the rollers. This may indicate:

(thermal laminating) the paper is slightly damp (thermal laminating) the paper is expanding with heat

the rollers may not tuned be properly (fig.1 - too much pressure) (fig 2 - too little pressure)

If this occurs on all items being laminated,

Problem : Crease that travels through item

Causes :

This crease may travel as a single line through to the end, or continue to branch off. This will be noticeable as the item becoming slack and bulging in the middle as it is fed into the machine.

Neglecting to stretch the item as it enters the rollers Excessive moisture Badly tuned rollers

Problem : Film has wrapped around rear rollers. Solution :

DO NOT EVER USE A KNIFE OR SHARP OBJECT TO CLEAR A FILM WRAP UP Causes of rear roller wind up :

If this has occurred while you are laminating an item, you must consider the item lost. Stop the laminator, and switch to reverse mode. If no more than two or three revolutions have occurred, do not cut the film. You can slowly reverse the film out of the rollers while pulling the film at the front to stop it wrapping up on the front rollers.

If the film is very badly wrapped around the rollers, cut the film near the front idler bars, and reverse the machine until the film is removed. Now reload the machine.

Misaligned film adhering to the rollers and pulling the film around. Economising by cutting the film off too close to the rear roller Incorrect film tension causing severe curling.

Once the film is freed from the rear rollers, switch the machine to forward mode and run the machine until the film has become taut and free of creases.

Solution :

Try drying the item being laminated. Increasing the roller speed may also help. Holding back the item more firmly as it passes through the laminator can help. If you suspect badly tuned rollers, see the roller tuning section.

Solution :

Troubleshooting - laminating problems

Troubleshooting - mechanical problems

fig 1

fig 2

Page 17 of 20

Troubleshooting - laminating problems

Troubleshooting - electrical problems

Problem : Film has wrapped around front rollers. Solution :

NEVER USE A KNIFE TO CUT FILM OFF THE ROLLERS.

This is a messy problem and is made more difficult to fix as the laminator must be

heated to operating temperatures before you can attempt to fix it.

1) Cut both upper and lower film before the feed point

2) Cut film between front and rear rollers

3) Cur film beyond rear rollers

4) Put machine into reverse

5) Grasp film in front of front rollers, and pull firmly as the machine is run in reverse mode.

6) If this works properly, check the rollers for signs of adhesive. If you see adhesive (visible as a shiny patch on the roller), do not let the machine cool down, but clean the rollers straight away. (see page 5 for roller care information).)

Causes of front roller wrap up

l l l l

Misaligned film adhering to the roller. Film loaded inside out (adhesive against rollers) Film breakage Film running out during lamination.

IN THE EVENT OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS NOT RESOLVED BY THIS

SECTION, A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN MUST BE CALLED.

Problem : Laminator will not turn on Solution : Check the following

1) Machine is plugged in and wall switch is turned on

2) Circuit breaker is switched on and illuminated

3) On switch has been pressed, and indicator light is lit

4) Plug another appliance into the socket to make sure it is powered.

Problem : Laminator Circuit breaker keeps tripping

The circuit breaker is designed to protect you from electrical problems. If the circuit breaker trips, try resetting it by switching it back on. If it trips again, you may have an electrical problem. Check that the rollers are able to turn freely and the motor is not overloaded.

NEVER REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER WITH A HIGHER RESISTANCE UNIT

NEVER HOLD OR TAPE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IN THE `ON’ POSITION

NEVER BYPASS THE CIRCUIT BREAKER

REMEMBER, IF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPING, IT IS NOT A FAULTY CIRCUIT

BREAKER, IT IS DOING ITS JOB AND PROTECTING YOU. CALL A TECHNICIAN!

Page 18 of 20

top roller

film

bottom roller

glue contacts rollers

Page 19 of 20

Adjusting roller pressure

The Centaur is tested, tuned and packaged, and should be ready to laminate immediately after setup. However, it is possible that some films may require retuning of the rollers, or the machine may become detuned during shipping. If you have identified a possible roller pressure problem in the troubleshooting section, follow the guidelines below to adjust the machine.

To adjust the roller pressure, use the hex driver provided in the toolkit. The driver will fit into holes in the top of the sidecase, next to the rollers. Turn the bolt clockwise to tighten, and counterclockwise to loosen.

Factory settings

If you have replaced a roller, or the machine is badly out of tune and needs to be quickly retuned, you may wish to return the roller pressure to factory settings. To adjust the machine to factory settings, :

Turn the bolts counter clockwise until the head of the bolt just touches the top of the spring - the

spring should be able to rotate freely.

Turn spring 3 full turns clockwise

Turn each spring 4 full turns clockwise.

2) Front Rollers -

3) Rear Rollers -

Important notes

Adjust by half a turn on each spring, then test the machine Pressure should be even on left and right hand side More pressure is not always the answer. Excessive pressure can cause damage to the machine. If you have spent more than 10 minutes trying to adjust the roller pressure, roller pressure is probably not the problem. Reset the machine to factory settings. Begin tuning the back rollers, most problems can be solved this way. The film should be flat and even between the front and back rollers, look at the reflection of the idler bar for an easy indication of flatness.

Emseal Centaur Assembly & Operators Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual