Empire WB17IN,ARCHWAY 1700 User guide

Installation

and Operation

ARCHWAY 1700

INSERT

(Model WB17IN)

Manual

Safety tested according to

ULC S628, UL 1482 and
UL 737 by an accredited

laboratory.

US Environmental Protection

Agency phase II certified

2020 cord wood insert.

CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN THE

AREA.

READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE INSTALLATION AND USE OF THIS WOOD INSERT. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE

INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN DEATH.

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE

Printed in Canada

2019-05-22

45977A

THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING

THIS WOOD INSERT.

If this insert is not
installed properly,
combustible materials
near it may overheat
and catch fire.

To reduce the
risk of fire, follow
the installation
instructions in this
manual.

The following pages provide
general advice on wood
heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective
installation, and guidance
on how to get the best
performance from this insert.

It is highly recommended
that this wood burning hearth
product be installed and
serviced by professionals who
are certified by NFI (National

Fireplace Institute®) or CSIA
(Chimney Safety Institude
of America) in the United
States or in Canada by WETT

(Wood Energy Technology
Transfer) or in Quebec
by APC (Association des
Professionnels du Chauffage).

Contact local building or fire
officials about restrictions
and installation inspection
requirements in the area.

A building permit might be
required for the installation of
this insert and the chimney
that it is connected to. It
is also recommended to
inform your home insurance
company.

Please read this entire manual
before installing and using this
insert.

A primary alternative heat
source should be available in
the home. This heating unit
may serve as a supplementary
heat source. The manufacturer
cannot be responsible for
additional heating costs
associated with the use of an
alternative heat source.

Page 3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE .......................................................................... 7

1. Safety Information ............................................................................................................... 7

2. General Information ............................................................................................................ 8

2.1 Performances ..............................................................................................................8

2.2 Specifications ..............................................................................................................9

2.3 Dimensions ..............................................................................................................10

2.4 Materials ...................................................................................................................12

2.5 Zone Heating .............................................................................................................12

2.6 Emissions and Efficiency ............................................................................................13

3. Fuel .................................................................................................................................... 13

3.1 Tree Species .............................................................................................................13

3.2 Log Length ................................................................................................................14

3.3 Piece Size .................................................................................................................14

3.4 Compressed Wood Logs ............................................................................................14

3.5 Drying Time ............................................................................................................... 14

4. Operating the Insert .......................................................................................................... 16

4.1 Blower ......................................................................................................................17

4.2 Fire Screen ................................................................................................................17

5. Burning Wood Efficiently .................................................................................................. 17

5.1 First Use ...................................................................................................................17

5.2 Lighting Fires .............................................................................................................18

5.3 Combustion Cycles ....................................................................................................19

5.4 Rekindling a Fire ........................................................................................................19

5.5 Removing Ashes ........................................................................................................20

5.6 Air Intake Control ......................................................................................................20

5.7 Fire Types .................................................................................................................21

6. Maintenance ...................................................................................................................... 23

6.1 Insert ........................................................................................................................23

6.2 Glass Door ................................................................................................................23

6.3 Door .........................................................................................................................25

6.4 Exhaust System .........................................................................................................26

PART B - INSTALLATION ........................................................................................................ 28

7. Masonry Fireplace Requirements .................................................................................... 28

7.1 Fireplace and Chimney Condition ................................................................................28

7.2 Chimney Caps ...........................................................................................................28

7.3 Adjacent Combustibles ..............................................................................................28

7.4 Opening Size .............................................................................................................28

7.5 Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper ..............................................................................28

Page 4

8. Safety Information and Standards ................................................................................... 29

8.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation .......................................................................29

8.2 Certification Label ......................................................................................................29

9. Clearances to Combustible Material ................................................................................ 30

9.1 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf ...................................................................30

9.2 Floor Protection .........................................................................................................30

9.3 Minimum Masonry Opening and Clearances to Combustibles .......................................33

10. The Venting System .......................................................................................................... 34

10.1 General ....................................................................................................................34

10.2 Block-off Plate ........................................................................................................... 34

10.3 Suitable Chimneys .....................................................................................................34

10.4 Chimney Liner Installation ...........................................................................................35

10.5 Liner Connection .......................................................................................................35

10.6 Minimum Chimney Height ........................................................................................... 37

10.7 Chimney Location ...................................................................................................... 37

10.8 Supply of Combustion Air ........................................................................................... 38

Appendix 1: Blower and Ash Lip Installation ....................................................................... 39

Appendix 2: Door Overlay Installation .................................................................................. 40

Appendix 3: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation ......................................................... 41

Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate Installation ........................................................................ 42

Appendix 5: Optional Fire Screen Installation ...................................................................... 44

Appendix 6: Air Tubes and Baffle Installation ...................................................................... 45

Appendix 7: Removal Instructions ........................................................................................ 47

Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List .................................................................... 48

EMPIRE Limited Lifetime Warranty ...................................................................................... 51

Dealer:

Installer:

Phone Number:

Serial Number:

Page 5

CERTIFICATION PLATE

Page 6

PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

1. Safety Information

• This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. The door may be opened, or fire screen removed only during lighting procedures or
reloading. Always close the door or put back on the fire screen after ignition. Do not leave the insert
unattended when the door is opened with or without a fire screen.

• WARNING : OPERATE ONLY WITH THE DOOR FULLY CLOSED OR FULLY OPEN WITH THE

FIRE SCREEN IN PLACE. IF THE DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAME MAY BE
DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.

• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT OPERATION.

• Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass, firebricks or baffle may produce
an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.

• Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.

• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE,

CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN
THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT
WHILE IT IS IN USE.

• Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.

• Burn only seasoned natural firewood.

• This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal
regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this
manual.

• This appliance should always be maintained and operated in accordance with these instructions.

• Do not elevate the fire by means of grates, andirons or other means.

• A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed in the
house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.

• Do not use makeshift materials or make any compromises when installing this insert.

This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which is
known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive
harm. For more information go to www.P65warnings.ca.gov/

Page 7

2. General Information

2.1 Performances

Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.

Models Archway 1700

Combustion technology Non-catalytic

Fuel Type Dry Cordwood

Recommended heating area (sq. ft..)

1

500 to 1,800 ft2 (46 to 167 m2)

Nominal firebox volume 1.9 ft3 (0.054 m3)

Maximum burn time

Maximum heat output (dry cordwood)

Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)

Average overall efficiency3
Dry cordwood

Optimum efficiency

Average particulate emissions rate

Average CO

9

1

2

2 3

6 hours

65,000 BTU/h (19 kW)

15,650 BTU/h to 23,300 BTU/h
(4.6 kW to 6.83 kW)

70 % (HHV)

6

7

78 %

1.26 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)

4

75 % (LHV)

5

8

58 g/h

1

Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,heat loss factors, climate, fuel type
and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is dened by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum
acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.

2

The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3 and 20 lb/ft3. Other performances are based on
a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specied loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19%
and 25%.

3

As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.

4

Higher Heating Value of the fuel.

5

Lower Heating Value of the fuel.

6

Optimum overall efciency at a specic burn rate (LHV).

7

This appliance is ofcially tested and certied by an independent agency.

8

Tested and certied in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and draft ASTM WK47329-14 based on the ATM send
by EPA on October 12th, 2017.

9

Carbon monoxide.

Page 8

2.2 Specifications

Maximum log length

1

18 in (457 mm) east-west

Flue outlet diameter 6 in (150 mm)

Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (150 mm)

Type of chimney ULC S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL 1777

Baffle material C-Cast

Approved for alcove installation Not applicable

Approved for mobile home installation

2

No

Type of door Simple, glass with cast iron frame

Type of glass Ceramic glass

Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-103

USA Standard (Safety) UL 1482, UL 737

Canada Standard (Safety) ULC-S628

1

North-south: ends of the logs visible, East-west: sides of the logs visible.

2

Mobile homes (Canada) or manufactured homes (USA): The US Department of Housing and Urban Development describes “manufactured homes”
better known as “mobile homes” as follows; buildings built on xed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent
foundation. In Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is completed or substantially
completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA­Z240 MH standard.

3

Tested and certied in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and draft ASTM WK47329-14 based on the ATM send
by EPA on October 12th, 2017.

Page 9

2.3 Dimensions

26 7/8"

12 7/8"

4"

12 3/4"

324mm

683mm

25 1/2"

648mm

24 5/8"

624mm

5 3/4"

145mm

6"

Ø

150mm

2 3/4"

70mm

MIN

14 1/4"

361mm

MAX

Figure 1: Top View Figure 2: Side View - Minimum Insert Projection

103mm

MAX

328mm

MIN

9 3/8"

237mm

15 5/8"

395mm

19 1/2"

496mm

6 5/8"

24 1/8"

613mm

16 7/8"

429mm

22 7/8"

580mm

169mm

17 7/8"

453mm

20 3/4"

528mm

21 1/4"

521mm

539mm

20 1/2"

Page 10

Figure 3: Front View Figure 4: Side View - Maximum Insert Projection

8 3/4"

221mm

17 1/4"

438mm

Figure 5: Door Opening

19 5/8"

498mm

3/16"
5mm

5/16"
8mm

12"

305mm

13 3/4"

349mm

Figure 6: Front View - Combustion Chamber Figure 7: Side View - Combustion Chamber

Page 11

2.4 Materials

The body of this insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.

The paint coating on the insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is
very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing
process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.

The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.

The C-Cast baffle is made of aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder
to form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

The firebricks are mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed
from a mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal
at a landfill is recommended.

The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have
been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

The door glass is a 5/32" (4 mm) thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is
made of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form
a high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass,
so it should not be disposed of with the regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.

2.5 Zone Heating

This insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is installed in, as well
as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is called zone heating
and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.

Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement, a family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.

Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized
and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located.

Locating the insert in this area will give the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will
achieve the highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where the most time is
spent will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this
way, less wood is burned than with other forms of heating.

Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of the house to an adequate
temperature, it is strongly recommended to also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.

Page 12

The success of zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the insert, the size, layout and age of the home and the climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated all winter.

2.6 Emissions and Efficiency

The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside this insert firebox means
that the household will release up to 90% less smoke into the outside environment than if an
older conventional insert was used. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.

The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of
the fuel. By burning the wood completely, this insert releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow control
of the air supply meaning controlling the heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient
flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to the home.

The emission control and advanced combustion features of this insert can only work properly
if the fuel used is in the correct moisture content range of 15% to 20%. Refer to the following
section for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.

3. Fuel

Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is down to 15% to 20%.

DO NOT BURN:

• GARBAGE;

• LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE;

• MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER,

INCLUDING TIRES;

• MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC;

• WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINTS

OR PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT
PRODUCTS;

• MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS;

• CONSTRUCTION OR DEMOLITION DEBRIS;

• RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE-TREATED

WOOD;

• MANURE OR ANIMAL REMAINS;

• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER

PREVIOUSLY SALT WATER SATURATED
MATERIALS;

• UNSEASONED WOOD; OR

• PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD,

PLYWOOD, OR PARTICLEBOARD. THE
PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE
MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE USE
OF FIRE STARTERS MADE FROM PAPER,
CARDBOARD, SAW DUST, WAX AND
SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE
OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN AFFECTED
WOOD HEATER.

BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR RENDER
THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.

3.1 Tree Species

The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods.

Page 13

Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood use both types for different purposes.
Softer woods make good fuel for mild weather in spring and fall because they light quickly and
produce less heat. Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood
contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common
problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter
weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.

Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived
than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice
that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron inserts wouldn’t hold a
fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true.

3.2 Log Length

Logs should be cut at least 1" (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in
easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long makes loading the insert very
difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16" (400 mm).

3.3 Piece Size

Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough
to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp
edges where the flames first catch.

Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier.

3.4 Compressed Wood Logs

Compressed wood logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be
burned with caution in the number of these logs burned at once. Do
not burn compressed logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs
with any chemical additives. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
and warnings.

3.5 Drying Time

Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of
heat and dirty glass door.

Page 14

Firewood with a moisture content between 15% and 20% will allow the insert to produce its
highest possible efficiency.

Here are some facts to consider in estimating drying time:

− Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely
dry enough to burn, so it is advisable
to buy the wood in spring and dry it
yourself;

− Drying happens faster in dry weather
than in a damp climate;

− Drying happens faster in warm summer
weather than in winter weather;

− Small pieces dry more quickly than
large pieces;

− Split pieces dry more quickly than
unsplit rounds;

− Softwoods like pine, spruce, poplar, and aspen take less time to dry than hardwoods. they can be
dry enough to burn after being stacked to air dry only for the summer months;

− Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if the
pieces are big;

− Firewood dries more quickly when stacked outside in a location exposed to sun and wind; it takes
much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed;

Use these guidelines to find out if the firewood is dry enough to burn:

− Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry;

− The wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow;

− Two pieces of wood struck together sounds hollow;

− Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,

− The face of a fresh cut feels warm and dry;

− The moisture content read by a moisture meter is between
15% to 20%.

Page 15

4. Operating the Insert

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be
altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

Before using the insert, the following steps should be completed :

• Empty the combustion chamber and install the air control handle (A) with the set screw (B) as
shown below:

A

Figure 8: Empty the combustion chamber Figure 9: Installing the air control wood handle

• Install the combustion chamber side bricks as shown below.

Figure 10: Install the Combustion Chamber Bricks Figure 11: Combustion Chamber Bricks Layout

B

• Install the ash lip and the blower (see «Appendix 1: Blower and Ash Lip Installation»);

• Install the door overlay (see «Appendix 2: Door Overlay Installation»);

• Install the faceplate (See «Appendix 4: Optional Faceplate Installation»).

The following step is optional :

• Install the fresh air intake (See «Appendix 3: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation»).

Page 16

4.1 Blower

HI

LO

A blower is already installed on this insert. It is located
underneath the ash lip, in front of the insert. Its function
is to increase airflow through the heat exchanger and
improve hot air circulation in the room. When used
regularly, the blower can provide a small increase in
efficiency, up to 2%. However, the use of a blower
should not be used as a way to gain more output from
an insert that is undersized for the space it is intended
to heat.

Ensure the blower cord is not in contact
with any surface of the insert to prevent
electrical shock or fire damage. Do not

Figure 12: Blower location

The blower has a rheostat that can be adjusted in three different
positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or closed (OFF).

Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately
one hour) before turning on the blower, since increased airflow
from the blower will remove heat and affect the start up
combustion efficiency.

The blower is also equipped with a heat sensor. When the
blower is ON, it will start automatically when the insert is hot
enough and it will stop when the insert has cooled down.
Therefore, the blower speed control can be left at the desired
setting.

run cord beneath the insert.

OFF

Figure 13: Blower rheostat

4.2 Fire Screen

This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. The fire screen must be properly secured on the insert to avoid any risk of sparks
damaging the flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the insert unattended to
respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke
spillage are described in Section «10. The Venting System» of this manual. See «Appendix 5:

Optional Fire Screen Installation» for installation instructions.

OPERATING THE INSERT WITH A FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF
GENERATING CARBON MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT
IS HIGHLY TOXIC WHICH CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.

5. Burning Wood Efficiently

5.1 First Use

Two things happen when burning the first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components are
conditioned. As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous,
but they smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also trigger false alarms in smoke detectors.

Page 17

When lighting the heater for the first few times, it may be wise to open doors and windows to
ventilate the house.

Burn two or three small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer paint smell from the insert. As hotter and hotter fires are
burned, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The smell of
curing paint does not disappear until one or two very hot fires have been burned.

5.2 Lighting Fires

Each person heating with wood develops its own favorite way to light fires. Regardless of the
method chosen, the goal should be to have a hot fire burning, quickly. A fire that ignites fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney.

Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel (naphtha), fuel oil, motor oil,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids or aerosols to start or
‘freshen up’ a fire in this wood insert. Keep all such liquids well away from
the insert while it is in use.

Here are three popular and effective ways to ignite wood fires.

5.2.1 Conventional Method

The conventional method to build a wood fire is to crumple 5
to 10 sheets of newspaper and place them in the firebox and
hold them in place with ten pieces of kindling wood. The kindling
should be placed on and behind the newspaper.

Then add two or three small pieces of firewood. Open the air
intake control completely and ignite the newspaper. Leave the
door slightly ajar.

Once the fire has ignited, the door can be closed with the air
control still fully open. When the kindling is almost completely
burned, standard firewood pieces can be added.

Do not leave the insert unattended when the door is slightly open. Always close and latch the
door after the fire ignites.

5.2.2 The Top Down Method

This method is the opposite of the conventional method and only works properly if well-seasoned
wood is used.

Place three or four small, split, dry logs in the firebox. Arrange the kindling wood on the logs in
two layers at right angles and place a dozen finely split kindling on the second row.

It is possible to use ragged paper but it may not hold in place since it tends to roll while it is
burning. The best is to wrap a sheet on itself, grab the ends of the roll and make a knot. Use
four or five sheets of paper tied together and put them on top and around the kindling. Open the
air intake control completely, ignite the paper and close the door.

The down fire method has two advantages over the traditional method: first, the fire does not
collapse on itself, and it is not necessary to add wood gradually since the combustion chamber
is full before the fire is lit.

Page 18

5.2.3 Two Parallel Logs Method

Two spit logs are placed in the firebox with a few sheets of twisted newspapers in between the
logs. Fine kindling is added across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin
style. Newspaper is lit.

5.2.4 Using Fire Starters

Commercial fire starters can be used instead of a newspaper. Some of these starters are made
of sawdust and wax and others are made of specialized flammable solid chemicals. Always
follow the package directions when using.

Gel starters can also be used, but only to light a fire, in a cold combustion chamber without hot
embers inside.

5.3 Combustion Cycles

Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
temperature variations in different parts of the house and there will be temperature variations
throughout day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these are advantages
of zone heating wood burning.

Wood heaters don’t have a steady heat output. It is normal for the temperature to rise after
a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decrease throughout the
burning cycle. This increasing and decreasing temperature can be matched with the household
routines. For example, the temperature in the area can be cooler when the household is active,
and it can be warmer when it is inactive.

Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and
ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it
was when the wood was loaded.

Trying to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals
is not recommended. Always place at least three, and preferably more pieces on the fire at a
time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load may vary depending on the
amount of heat required.

Burning in cycles means the loading door does not need to be opened while the wood is flaming.
This is an advantage since it is preventing smoke leaking from the heater when the door is
opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney is on the outside wall of the
house.

If the door must be opened while the fire is flaming, fully open air control for a few
minutes then open the door slowly.

5.4 Rekindling a Fire

When the temperature of the room is lower and all that remains is embers, it is time to reload.
Remove excess ash from the front of the firebox and bring the ashes forward. Place a new load
of wood on, and at the back of the embers. Open the air control completely and close the door.

Page 19

Raking the coals is useful for two reasons. First, it brings them near where most of the combustion
air enters the firebox. This will ignite the new load quickly. Secondly, the charcoal will not be
smothered by the new load of wood. When the embers are simply spread inside the combustion
chamber, the new load smoulder for a long time before igniting.

Close the air control only when the firebox is full of bright turbulent flames, the wood is charred,
and its edges are glowing.

The heater should not be left unattended during ignition and the fire should not burn at full
intensity for more than a few minutes.

When lighting a new load, the appliance produces a heat surge. This heat surge is pleasant when
the room temperature is cool but can be unpleasant when the room is already warm. Therefore,
it is best to let each load of wood burn completely so that the room cools down before putting
a load of wood back on.

5.5 Removing Ashes

Ash should be removed from the firebox every two to three days of full time heating. Ash should
not accumulate excessively in the firebox since it will affect the proper operation of the appliance.

The best time to remove ash is in the morning, after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively
cold, but there is still a little chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent going
out into the room.

Ashes almost always contain live embers that can stay hot for days and which release carbon
monoxide gas. Ashes should be placed in a tightly covered metal container. The container must
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials.

If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be kept
in a closed metal container until they are completely cooled. No other waste should be placed
in this container.

NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALLIC CONTAINER

CENDRES

ASHES

OR ON A WOODEN DECK.

5.6 Air Intake Control

Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, air intake can be reduced to achieve a steady
burn.

Page 20

As the air intake is reduced, the burn rate decreases. This
has the effect of distributing the thermal energy of the fuel
over a longer period of time. In addition, the flow rate of
exhaust through the appliance and flue pipe slows down,
which increases the duration of the energy transfer of the
exhaust gases. As the air intake is reduced, the flame slows
down.

If the flames diminish to the point of disappearing, the air
intake has been reduced too early in the combustion cycle
or the wood used is too wet. If the wood is dry and the air
control is used properly, the flames should decrease, but
remain bright and stable.

On the other hand, too much air can make the fire uncontrollable, creating very high temperatures
in the unit as well as in the chimney and seriously damaging them. A reddish glow on the unit
and on the chimney components indicates overheating. Excessive temperatures can cause a
chimney fire.

Figure 14: Air Intake Control

5.7 Fire Types

Using the air intake control is not the only way to match the insert heat output to the desired
temperature in the house. A house will need far less heating in October than in January to
maintain a comfortable temperature. Filling the firebox full in fall weather will overheat the space.
Otherwise, the combustion rate will have to be reduced to a minimum and the fire will be smoky
and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for building fires suitable for different heating needs.

5.7.1 Flash Fire

To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load
them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should only be 3" to 4" in diameter. After raking the
coals, lay two pieces parallel to each other diagonally in the firebox and lay two more across
them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is
fully flaming.

This kind of fire is good for mild weather and should provide enough heat for up to four hours.
Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species and avoid overheating the house.

5.7.2 Low and Long Output Fires

For a fire that will last up to eight hours but will not produce intense heat, use soft wood and
place the logs compactly in the firebox. Before reducing the air intake, the load will have to burn
at full heat for long enough for charring the surface of the logs. The flame must be bright before
letting the fire burn by itself.

5.7.3 High Output Fires

When heating needs are high during cold weather, the fire should burn steadily and brightly. This
is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood. Place the biggest pieces at the back of the firebox
and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like this will produce the longest
combustion this insert is capable of. Special attention must be paid when building fires like this
since if the air intake is reduced too quickly, the fire could smoulder. The wood must be flaming
brightly before leaving the fire to burn.

Page 21

5.7.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times

The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of
that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly
the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is
little or no flame. The burning time expected from this insert, including both phases, will vary
depending on a number of things, such as:

− firebox size,

− the amount of wood loaded,

− the species of wood,

− the wood moisture content,

The table below gives an approximate maximum burn cycle times, based on firebox volume.

Table 1 : Approximate Maximum Burn Cycle Time

− the size of the space to be heated,

− the climate zone where the house is, and

− the time of the year.

FIREBOX VOLUME MAXIMUM BURN CYCLE

TIME

<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours

1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 5 to 6 hours

2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours

2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours

A longer burning time is not necessarily an indication of efficient insert operation. It is preferable
to build a smaller fire that will provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox
for a much longer burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the insert
to the heat demand of the space.

5.7.5 Logs Orientation

In a relatively square firebox, the wood can be loaded north-south (ends of the logs visible) or
east-west (sides of the logs visible).

North-south loads allow more wood to be loaded at the same time. On the other hand, they
break into smaller pieces faster. North-south loading is good for high output, long lasting fires
for cold weather.

East-west loads allow a limited amount of wood since too many logs could cause them to fall
on the glass. East-west loads, placed in a compact way, take a long time before breaking down.
They are excellent for low-intensity, long-lasting fires in relatively mild weather.

5.7.6 Carbon Monoxide

When there is no more flame in the firebox and there are still some unburned logs, check outside
if there is smoke coming out of the chimney. If this is the case, it means that the fire is out of air
to burn properly. In this situation, the level of CO increases and it is important to react. Open
the door slightly and move the logs with a poker. Create a passage for the air below by making
a trench with the ember bed. Add small pieces of wood to restart the combustion.

Page 22

6. Maintenance

This heater will give many years of reliable service if used and maintained properly. Internal
components of the firebox such as firebricks or refractory panels, baffle and air tubes will
wear over time. Defective parts should always be replaced with original parts see «Appendix

8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List». To avoid premature deterioration, follow the lighting and

reloading procedures in section «5. Burning Wood Efficiently» and also avoid letting the heater
run with the air intake fully open for entire burn cycles.

6.1 Insert

6.1.1 Cleaning and Painting

Painted and plated surfaces can be wiped down with a soft, damp cloth. If the paint is scratched
or damaged, it is possible to repaint the insert with a heat-resistant paint. Do not clean or
paint the insert when it is hot. Before painting, the surface should be sanded lightly with
sandpaper and then wiped off to remove dust. Apply two thin layers of paint.

6.1.2 Refractory Material and Baffle

Inspect the firebricks or the refractory panels and the baffle for damage periodically and replace
anything that is cracked or broken.

Operation of the heater with a cracked or missing baffle may cause unsafe temperatures
and hazardous conditions and will void the warranty.

6.2 Glass Door

6.2.1 Cleaning

Under normal conditions, the door glass should stay relatively clear. If the firewood is dry
enough and the operating instructions in this manual are followed, a whitish, dusty deposit will
form on the inner surface of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily
removed when the heater is cold by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying.

When the insert runs at a low combustion rate, light brown stains may form, especially in the
lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been smoky and some of the smoke
has condensed on the glass. It also indicates incomplete combustion of the wood, which also
means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the chimney.

The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the fuel quality and success in
properly using the insert. These stains can be cleaned with a special wood insert glass cleaner.

Do not use abrasive products to clean the glass.

The goal should be having a clear glass with no brown stains. If brown stains appear regularly
on the glass, something about the fuel or the operating procedure needs to be changed. When
brown streaks are coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around the
glass. Always replace the gasket with a genuine one. see «Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and

Parts List».

Do not clean the glass when the insert is hot.

Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut.

Do not use the insert if the glass is broken.

Page 23

6.2.2 Replacement

8x

The glass used is a ceramic glass, 5/32" (4 mm) thick tested to reach temperatures up to
1400º F. If the glass breaks, it must be replaced with one having the same specification.

Tempered glass or ordinary glass will not withstand the high temperatures of this unit.

To remove or replace the glass (D):

2x

1. Remove the door from its hinges and lay it on
a soft, flat surface.

2. Remove the screws (A), the glass retainers
(B), and the metal frames (C).

3. Remove the glass (D). If it is damaged install
a new one in place. The replacement glass
must have a gasket all around (see procedure
below).

C

D

E

A

4. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the
glass in the door and not to over-tightening
the retaining screw.

Figure 15: Replacing the glass

The two main causes of broken door glass are uneven placement in the door and over­tightening the retaining screws.

B

8x

6.2.3 Gasket

The glass gasket is flat, adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. The gasket must be centred on the
edge of the glass.

1. Follow the steps of the previous section to remove
the glass.

2. Remove the old gasket and clean the glass
thoroughly.

3. Peel back a section of the paper covering the
adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the
adhesive side up.

4. Stick the end of the gasket to the middle of one
edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto
the gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on
the gasket.

5. Peel off more of the backing and rotate the glass.
The gasket must not be stretched during installation.

6. Cut the gasket to the required length.

7. Pinch the gasket onto the glass in a U shape, all around the glass.

Page 24

Figure 16: Glass Gasket

6.3 Door

In order for the insert to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with the
firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically to check for a good seal. The
tightness of the door seal can be verified by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper.
The test must be performed all around the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, either
adjust the door or replace the gasket.

Figure 17: Door gasket seal verification

6.3.1 Adjustment

The gasket seal may be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment:

1. Remove the split pin by pulling and turning it using pliers.

2. Turn the handle one counterclockwise turn to increase pressure.

3. Reinstall the split pin with a small hammer.

Figure 18: Removing the split pin Figure 19: Installing the split pin

Page 25

6.3.2 Gasket

It is important to replace the gasket with another having the same diameter and density to
maintain a good seal.

1. Remove the door and place it face-down on
something soft like a cushion of rags or a
piece of carpet.

2. Remove the old gasket from the door. Use
a screwdriver to scrape the old gasket
adhesive from the door gasket groove.

3. Apply a bead of approximately 3/16" (5 mm)
of high temperature silicone in the door
gasket groove. Starting from the middle,
hinges side, press the gasket into the
groove. The gasket must not be stretched
during installation.

4. Leave about ½" long of the gasket when
cutting and press the end into the groove.
Tuck any loose fibers under the gasket and
into the silicone.

5. Close the door. Do not use the insert for 24
hours.

Figure 20: Door gasket

6.4 Exhaust System

Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney, forming a inflammable deposit called creosote.
If creosote builds up in the system, it can ignite when a hot fire is burned in the insert. A very
hot fire can progress to the top of the chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best
chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form. When
the insert is operated properly, the exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear and creosote builds
up more slowly.

«Creosote - Formation and Need to Removal

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cooler
chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue
lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months
during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has

accumulated (⅛» [3mm] or more it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire»

6.4.1 Cleaning frequency

It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in the chimney. It is
important, therefore, to check the build-up in the chimney monthly until the rate of creosote
formation is determined. Even if creosote forms slowly in the system, the chimney should be
cleaned and inspected at least once each year.

Page 26

Establish a routine for the fuel, wood burner and firing technique. Check daily for creosote
build-up until experience shows how often you need to clean to be safe. Be aware that the
hotter the fire, the less creosote is deposited and weekly cleaning may be necessary in mild
weather even though monthly cleaning may be enough in the coldest months. Contact your local
municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a
clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.

6.4.2 Sweeping the Chimney

Chimney sweeping can be a difficult and dangerous job.
People with no chimney sweeping experience will often
prefer to hire a professional chimney sweep to inspect
and clean the system for the first time. After seeing the
cleaning process, some will choose to do it themselves.

The chimney should be checked regularly for creosote
build-up. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney can be
facilitated by removing the baffle. See «Appendix 6: Air

Tubes and Baffle Installation» for more details.

6.4.3 Chimney Fire

Regular chimney maintenance and inspection can prevent chimney fires. If you have a chimney
fire, follow these steps:

1. Close the insert door and the air intake control;

2. Alert the occupants of the house of the possible danger;

3. If you require assistance, alert the fire department;

4. If possible, use a dry chemical fire extinguisher, baking soda or sand to control the fire. Do not
use water as it may cause a dangerous steam explosion;

Do not use the appliance again until the insert and its chimney have been inspected by
a qualified chimney sweep or a fire department inspector.

Page 27

PART B - INSTALLATION

7. Masonry Fireplace Requirements

The masonry fireplace must meet the minimum requirements found in the building code
enforced locally, or the equivalent, for a safe installation. Contact the local building inspector for
requirements in the area. An inspection of the fireplace should include the following:

7.1 Fireplace and Chimney Condition

The masonry fireplace and chimney should be inspected prior to installation, to confirm that they
are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockage, or other signs of deterioration.
If evidence of deterioration is noted, the fireplace or chimney should be upgraded and cleaned
prior to installation.

Masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke shelf and
adjacent damper frame if necessary to accommodate the insert’s chimney liner, provided that
their removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce
protection for combustible materials to less than what is required by the building code.

Removal of any parts, which render the fireplace unfit for use with solid fuel, requires the
fireplace to be permanently labelled by the installer as being no longer suitable for solid fuel, until
the removed parts are replaced and the fireplace is restored to its original certified condition.
Also, any air vents, grilles, or louvers that allow air circulation around the fireplace must not be
removed or blocked.

7.2 Chimney Caps

Mesh type chimney caps must have provision for regular cleaning, or the mesh should be
removed to eliminate the potential of plugging.

7.3 Adjacent Combustibles

The fireplace should be inspected to make sure that there is adequate clearance to combustibles,
both exposed combustibles to the top, side, and front as well as concealed combustibles, in
the chimney and mantle area. The local inspector should have information on whether older
fireplaces are of adequate construction.

7.4 Opening Size

Refer to section «9.3 Minimum Masonry Opening and Clearances to Combustibles» for suitable
size fireplace openings.

7.5 Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper

If the fireplace draft control system is to remain in the masonry fireplace, it must be locked
open for easy access to the chimney liner or removed entirely. If it is removed from the masonry
hearth, the notice plate 27009 must be installed in a visible place, inside the masonry hearth.
The plate can be found in the owner’s manual kit.

Page 28

8. Safety Information and Standards

• The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the

information published, in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and web
sites).

• Mixing of appliance components from different sources or modifying components may result in

hazardous conditions. Where any such changes are planned, Empire Comfort System should be
contacted in advance.

• Any modification of the appliance that has not been approved in writing by the testing authority

violates CSA B365 (Canada), and ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).

• Connect this insert only to a listed stainless steel chimney liner for use with solid fuel.

• If required, a supply of combustion air shall be provided to the room.

• DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION

DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.

• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

• The insert and its stainless steel chimney liner are to be installed only within a lined masonry

chimney and masonry fireplace conforming to building codes for use with solid fuel. Do not remove
bricks or mortar from the existing fireplace when installing the insert.

8.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation

When installed and operated as described in these instructions, this wood insert is suitable for
use in residential installations but is not intended for installation in a bedroom.

In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment
and the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local
code requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents
and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are to be
followed in the absence of local code requirements.

This insert must be installed with a continuous chimney liner of 6" diameter extending from the
insert to the top of the chimney. The chimney liner must conform to the Class 3 requirements
of CAN/ULC-S635, Standard for Lining Systems for Existing Masonry or Factory-built Chimneys
and Vents, or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for New Masonry Chimneys or
UL 1777,Standard for Safety for Chimney Liners.

The insert is not approved for use with a so-called “positive flue connection” to the clay tile
of a masonry chimney.

8.2 Certification Label

Since the information given on the certification label attached to the appliance always overrides
the information published in any other media, it is important to refer to it to have a safe and
compliant installation. The model and the serial number can also be found on the label.

The certification label is usually located on the side of the insert, towards the front. The faceplate
may need to be removed to see it. Therefore, it is recommended to note the insert serial number
on page 5 of this manual. It will be needed to identify the version of the appliance in the
event replacement parts or technical assistance is required.

Page 29

9. Clearances to Combustible Material

When the insert is installed so that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances
specified, combustible surfaces will not overheat under normal and even abnormal operating
conditions.

NO PART OF THE INSERT MAY BE LOCATED CLOSER TO THE COMBUSTIBLE THAN THE
MINIMUM CLEARANCE FIGURES GIVEN.

9.1 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf

It is possible to install a combustible shelf with a maximum depth of 12" (305 mm) at a height of
at least 27" (686 mm) above the insert. At a height of more than 27" (686 mm), the shelf must
still have a maximum depth of 12" (305 mm).

Table 2 : Mantel Shelf Clearances

MAXIMUM

MANTEL SHELF

MANTEL SHELF

CLEARANCES (I)

X

DIMENSION (X)

12" (305mm) max. 27" (686 mm) min.

Figure 21: Shelf Clearances

I

9.2 Floor Protection

It is necessary to have a floor protection made of non-combustible materials that meets the
measurements specified in the «Table 3 : Floor Protection» below.

Table 3 : Floor Protection

FLOOR PROTECTION

Canada USA

B 18" (457 mm)

1

16" (406 mm)

M 8" (203 mm) N/A

N N/A 8" (203 mm)

1

From door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is included in the calculation of the oor protector’s dimensions. The
masonry hearth should be at least 4" (102 mm) higher than the combustible oor in front of it and a oor protection must extend at least 16" (406
mm USA) and at least 18" (457 mm Canada) without an R value. If the hearth elevation is lower than 4" (102 mm), the non-combustible (B) oor
protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 1.00 and shall extend 22" (560 mm) in front of the unit.

Page 30

1

B

N

Figure 22: Floor Protection

M

DOOR

To determine the need to add floor protection (D) beyond the hearth extension (A), the following

NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL

calculation must be done using the data in «Table 4 : Data for Floor Protection Calculation» of
this section: D = B - G.

E

A

B

D

F

G

C

FLOOR PROTECTOR:

Figure 23: Additional Floor Protection - Raised Installation Figure 24: Additional Floor Protection - Not Raised Installation

HEARTH SLAB:
NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL

B

D

FLOOR PROTECTOR:
NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL

G

A

E

C

F

HEARTH SLAB:
NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL

Table 4 : Data for Floor Protection Calculation

A B C D E Air Jacket

Maximum
Extended

Minimum
Extended

Dimension

of the hearth

extension

Dimension

of the hearth

extension

See section

9.2.1 and

9.2.2

See section

9.2.1 and

9.2.2

4"

(102 mm)

2 ¾"

(70 mm)

G = (A-C)

D=B- G

G = (A-C)

D=B- G

7 ⅛"

(181 mm)

8 ½"

(216 mm)

Flush with

fireplace

facing

Back from

fireplace

facing 1 ⅜"

If the value (D) is negative or zero, additional floor protection in front of the unit is not needed
because the masonry fireplace hearth extension is long enough. If the value (D) is positive, an
additional floor protection in front of the hearth extension at least equivalent to the result (D)
must be added.

9.2.1 Installation Raised of 4" (102 mm) and Less

If non-combustible material floor protection needs to be added in front of and level with the
hearth extension of the masonry fireplace (F = 4" [102 mm) or less), an R-value equal to or
greater than 1.00 is required and should extend at least 22" (559 mm) in front of the unit (B).
Refer to «Figure 24: Additional Floor Protection - Not Raised Installation»

9.2.2 Installation Raised of More Than 4" (102 mm)

If the extension of the masonry hearth is raised at least 4" (102mm) from the floor protection, a non­combustible material, without an R-value, must extend at least 16" (406 mm in USA) or 18" (457 mm
in Canada) in front of the unit (B). Refer to «Figure 23: Additional Floor Protection - Raised Installation».

Page 31

9.2.3 R Value

There are two ways to calculate the R-value of the floor protection. First, by adding the R-values of
materials used, or by the conversion if the K factor and thickness of the floor protection are given.

To calculate the total R value from R values of the materials used, simply add the R-values of materials.
If the result is equal to or greater than the R-value requirements, the combination is acceptable.
R-values of some selected materials are shown below :

Table 5 : Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials*

MATERIAL

CONDUCTIVITY (K)

PER INCH

Micore® 160 0.39 2.54
Micore® 300 0.49 2.06
Durock® 1.92 0.52
Hardibacker® 1.95 0.51
Hardibacker® 500 2.3 0.44
Wonderboard® 3.23 0.31
Cement mortar 5.00 0.2
Common brick 5.00 0.2
Face brick 9.00 0.11
Marble 14.3 – 20.00 0.07 – 0.05
Ceramic tile 12.5 0.008
Concrete 1.050 0.950
Mineral wool insulation 0.320 3.120
Limestone 6.5 0.153
Ceramic board (Fibremax) 0.450 2.2
Horizontal still air (⅛"thick)

0.135 0.920**

RESISTANCE (R) PER INCH

THICKNESS

*Information as reported by manufacturers and other resources
** Horizontal still air can’t be «stack» to accumulate R-values; each layer must be separated with another non-combustible material.

Example:

Required floor protection R of 1.00. Proposed materials: four inches of brick and one inch of
Durock® board.

Four inches of brick (R = 4 x 0,2 = 0,8) plus 1 inch of Durock® (R = 1 x 0.52 = 0.52).

0.8 + 0.52 = 1.32.

This R value is larger than the required 1.00 and is therefore acceptable.

In the case of a known K and thickness of alternative materials to be used in combination,
convert all K values to R by dividing the thickness of each material by its K value. Add R values
of the proposed materials as shown in the previous example.

Example:

K value = 0.75
Thickness = 1
R value = Thickness/K = 1/0.75 = 1.33

Page 32

9.3 Minimum Masonry Opening and Clearances to Combustibles

COMBUSTIBLE MANTEL SHELF

COMBUSTIBLE

TOP SURROUND

I

Q

P

H

ADJACENT SIDE WALL

COMBUSTIBLE

SIDE SURROUND

F

L

MINIMUM CLEARANCES

F 16" (406 mm)

G 9" (229 mm)

G

J

FLOOR PROTECTION

K

Figure 25: Masonry Opening and Clearances

THICKNESS

O 5" (127 mm)

P 12" (305 mm)

O

MAXIMUM

H 27" (686 mm)

I 27" (686 mm)

Q 84" (213 cm)

MINIMUM MASONRY

OPENING

J 21 ½" (546 mm)

K2 27 ½" (700 mm)

L

2

If a fresh air intake is required, it is recommended to add at least 4" to the width of the minimum opening of the hearth.

12 ⅞ (328 mm)

Page 33

10. The Venting System

10.1 General

The venting system, made of the chimney and the liner inside the chimney, acts as the engine
that drives the wood heating system. Even the best insert will not function safely and efficiently
as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney and liner system.

The heat in the flue gases that pass from the insert into the chimney is not waste heat. This heat
is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps smoke inside
the insert and safely vents exhaust to outside. The heat in the flue gas can be seen as the fuel
the chimney uses to create draft.

10.2 Block-off Plate

To reduce the possibility of a cold air back draft from the masonry chimney into the room, the
installation of a sheet metal block-off plate (A) is recommended. When fabricating the block-off
plate, cut the pipe hole slightly larger than the liner diameter and pass the liner through the hole.
Install the block-off plate and secure it with masonry nails. Seal the joints between the plate and
the chimney with high temperature silicone and use stove cement to seal between the pipe and
the plate.

In Canada, the CSA B365 Standard permits «Roxul» type wool to be stuffed around the liner as
it passes through the throat area as an alternative to a sheet metal block-off plate. However, this
method is less efficient than using a plate.

A

Figure 26: Block-off Plate Figure 27: Block-off Plate

10.3 Suitable Chimneys

This wood insert will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6"
diameter chimney liner. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5" (Canada
only) is permitted if it allows the proper venting of combustion gases and that such application
is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the flue should be
6". The reduction of the liner diameter to less than 6" should only be done if the total height of
the masonry chimney is greater than 20 feet.

Page 34

10.4 Chimney Liner Installation

R

The use of a chimney liner (rigid or flexible) is
recommended to ensure the best performance. To
ensure an optimal draft, it is also strongly recommend
adding a minimum of 12" rigid liner between the top of
the masonry chimney and the rain cap. In all cases,
liners should be installed in accordance with the liner
manufacturer’s instructions, including instructions for
extension above the masonry.

Use chimney liners listed UL 1777, ULC S635 or CAN/
ULC S640.

In order to connect the insert to the liner, refer to
section «10.5 Liner Connection».

ATTENTION INSTALLER:

When positioning the unit in a fireplace opening,
prior to the flue installation, install the insert into the
opening until the top lip of air jacket is flush with
fireplace facing.

RAIN CAP

RIGID LINER

FLASHING

36"

MIN.

914mm

MASONRY FLUE

6" STAINLESS STEEL

IGID OR FLEX LINER

12"
305mm

MIN.

If lag bolts or anchors are to be used to secure the
insert, the holes location should be marked with
the unit in place. Remove the insert and locate the

anchors.

Figure 28: Liner Installation

10.5 Liner Connection

Two options are possible to connect the liner to the insert :

10.5.1 Liner Starter Adaptor

Install the chimney liner starter adapter, provided with
the chimney liner. Follow the chimney liner starter
adapter manufacturer’s instructions.

In order to connect the chimney liner starter adapter
to the flue outlet, install three brackets with the three
screws, all provided in the user manual, on top of the
insert. The long end of the brackets must be attached
to the insert. Insert the chimney liner into the flue
collar of the unit and secure the liner to the brackets
with three self-tapping screws (not included).

Figure 29: Securing the brackets

Page 35

The dealer may offer a liner fastening system, sold separately. Follow the installation instructions
provided with the liner fastening system.

Figure 30: Liner fastening system

10.5.2 Liner Offset Adapter

A liner offset adapter, sold separately, can also be installed. This should only be installed if no
other option is possible and if the total height of the fireplace and chimney is at least 20 feet.
This kind of adaptor is restricting the free flow of exhaust gases and may result in smoke roll­out from the insert when the door is open for reloading. When installing a liner offset adapter,
secure the three brackets provided in the user manual on top of the insert. The long end of the
brackets must be attached to the insert. Then, follow the instructions in the manual provided
with the liner offset adapter kit.

Page 36

Figure 31: Securing the brackets Figure 32: Offset liner adaptor

10.6 Minimum Chimney Height

The top of the chimney should be tall enough to be above the air turbulence caused when
wind blows against the house and its roof. The chimney must extend at least 3 ft. (1 m) above
the highest point of contact with the roof, and at least 2 ft.(60 cm) higher than any roof line or
obstacle within a horizontal distance of 10 ft. (3 m).

10.7 Chimney Location

Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the
right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold back drafting when there is no fire
in the insert, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is open for loading.

When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This creates
a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it produces a slightly negative
pressure in the lower part of the house (compared to the outside) and a slightly positive pressure
zone in the high part of the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a chimney
that is shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure in the lower
part of the house will compete against the desired upward flow in the chimney. This occurs for
the two following reasons:

First, the chimney runs up the outside of
the house, so the air in it is colder and
denser than the warm air in the house.
And second, the chimney is shorter than
the heated space of the house, meaning
the negative pressure in the lower part
of the house will draw cold air down the
chimney, through the insert and into the
room. Even the finest insert will not work
well when connected to this chimney.

Figure 33: Chimney location in the house

Page 37

10.8 Supply of Combustion Air

In Canada, wood inserts are not required to have a combustion air supply from outside. Research
has shown that outside air supply do not compensate for the depressurization of the house
and may not be sufficient to provide a supply of combustion air in windy weather. However,
to reduce the risks against smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon monoxide
(CO) detector is required in the room where the insert is installed. The CO detector will provide
warning if for any reason the wood insert fails to function correctly.

10.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses

The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for a wood insert is from the room in which
it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is not
affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almost
all tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide a small amount of air
needed by the insert. The only case in which the wood insert may not have adequate access to
combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)
causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors.

Figure 34: Air supply in conventional houses

If an air intake is installed through the wall of the house, its pressure can vary during windy
weather. If there are changes in wood insert performance in windy weather, and in particular if
smoke puffs from the insert, the air duct should be disconnected from the insert to determine if
it is the cause of the problem. In some windy conditions, negative pressure at the duct weather
hood outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the insert backwards through the
duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full system is cleaned
and inspected at least once each year.

Page 38

APPENDIX 1: BLOWER AND ASH LIP INSTALLATION

1. Install the ash lip (A) on the insert with three screws (B).

A

B

3x

2. Center the blower on the ash lip and push it against the firebox. Then push it until it clips.

Page 39

APPENDIX 2: DOOR OVERLAY INSTALLATION

8x

Position the overlay (C) on the door frame and secure it in place from behind using the screws
(D). To ease the installation, do not tighten the screws until they are all installed.

Note: It is not necessary to remove the glass to install the overlay.

D

Page 40

C

APPENDIX 3: OPTIONAL FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT INSTALLATION

Note : The fresh air intake kit may be installed on the right or left end side of the unit. The
unused side must be covered by the plate provided in the user manual kit.

1. Install the fresh air intake adapter (E) with four screws (F) then secure the flexible pipe1 (H) (not

included) to the adapter using one of the pipe clamps (G). Secure the other end of the pipe to
the outside wall termination (J) using the other pipe clamp. The outside wall termination must
be installed outside of the home.

E

G

2x

F

4x

H

J

2. Install the plate (K) with four screws (L) on the unused side of the insert.

K

L

1

The pipe must be HVAC type, insulated, and must comply with ULC S110 and/or UL 181, Class 0 or Class 1.

Page 41

APPENDIX 4: OPTIONAL FACEPLATE INSTALLATION

1. Remove the faceplate extension (A) secured between the firebox and the convection air jacket.

A

2. Line up the holes of panels B, C and D and secure them together using the bolts (E) and
nuts (F) provided.

C

E

D

F

B

Page 42

3. Align the holes of the faceplate extension (A) with the holes in the faceplate panels B, C
and D. Screw them using bolts (G) and nuts (H) provided.

A

D

6x

G

C

B

H

6x

4. Center the insert into the fireplace opening.

If necessary, adjust the height of the insert using the levelling bolts (M) on each side
of the insert until the faceplate is properly seated on the floor of the hearth extension.

5. Align the notch in the faceplate extension with the bolt (J) welded to the air jacket located and
slide the faceplate assembly just over the washer (K). Then push towards the fireplace.

6. Once the faceplate is in place, secure the assembly by tightening nut (L) using a 7/16" (11 mm)
open wrench.

J

K

L

M

2x

Page 43

APPENDIX 5: OPTIONAL FIRE SCREEN INSTALLATION

1. Open the door.

2. Hold the fire screen by the two handles and bring it close to the door opening.

3. Lean the upper part of the fire screen against the top door opening making sure to insert the top
fire screen brackets behind the primary air deflector.

4. Lift the fire screen upwards and push the bottom part towards the insert then let the fire screen
rest on the bottom of the door opening.

Warning: Never leave the insert unattended while in use with the fire screen.

Page 44

APPENDIX 6: AIR TUBES AND BAFFLE INSTALLATION

1. Starting with the rear tube, lean and insert the right end of the secondary air tube into the rear
right channel hole. Then lift and insert the left end of the tube into the rear left channel.

2. Align the notch in the left end of the tube with the key of the left air channel hole. Using a «
Wise grip » hold the tube and lock it in place by turning the tube as shown. Make sure the notch
reaches the end of the key way.

3. Install the baffle.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the three other tubes.

5. To remove the tubes use the above steps in reverse order.

Page 45

Note that secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (B) and that
all tubes are identical.

B

A

Page 46

APPENDIX 7: REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

For inspecting purposes, the insert may need to be removed. To remove the insert, follow these
instructions:

1. Unscrew the faceplate fastener (B) holding the faceplate (C) on the insert.

2. Remove faceplate (C) by pulling on it.

3. Remove the blower assembly (D).

4. Remove the three screws securing the pipe connector (A).

5. Unscrew the bolts securing the insert to the floor on each side of the unit (E).

A

B

D

C

E

Page 47

APPENDIX 8: EXPLODED DIAGRAM AND PARTS LIST

45

42

46

43

23

22

44

47

49

43

43

43

43

43

44

26

43

43

43

43

44

48

24

43

43

44

43

41

40

37

38

36

39

35

34

33

32

14

12

4

5

11

6

3

7

29

28

27

16

15

13

17

18

19

30

31

9

25

20

20

21

Page 48

A

2

1

8

9

10

DET AIL A

IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts
for this unit, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to
change parts due to technology upgrades or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain
any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor
performance and safety hazards.

# Item Description Qty

1 WBS1BL FIRESCREEN 1
2 30569 ROUND WOODEN HANDLE BLACK 2
3 WD1BL 1700 BLACK DOOR OVERLAY 1
3 WD1NB 1700 NICKEL DOOR OVERLAY 1
4 SE24294 EMPIRE 1.7 DOOR ASSEMBLY 1
5 AC06500 SILICONE AND 5/8" X 8' BLACK DOOR GASKET KIT 1
6 SE65024 HANDLE WITH LOCK KIT 1
7 AC09185 DOOR LATCH KIT 1
8 30898 ROUND WOODEN BLACK HANDLE DULL BLACK FINISH 2

9 30187 STAINLESS WASHER ID 17/64" X OD 1/2" 1
10 30025 1/4-20 X 1/2" PAN-HEAD QUADREX BLACK SCREW 1
11 30101 SPRING TENSION PIN 5/32"Ø X 1 1/2"L 1
12 AC06400 3/4" (FLAT) X 6' BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET 1
13 SE70675 1.7 EMPIRE GLASS 1
14 PL70545 LEFT GLASS FRAME 1
15 PL70544 RIGHT GLASS FRAME 1
16 SE53585 GLASS RETAINER KIT WITH SCREWS (12 PER KIT) 1
17 PL70586 DAMPER 1
18 30206 ZINC WASHER 5/16"ID X 3/4"OD 1
19 30060

THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 X 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC

20 30059 5/32" ID PUSHNUT 1
21 30102 1/4'' CAST IRON AIR CONTROL HANDLE INCLUDES MOUNTING SCREW 1
22 30160 METAL SCREW #8 X 3/4" QUADREX SELF TAPPING TEK BLACK 2
23 PL65562 AIR CONTRÔL DAMPER GUIDE 1
24 SE65559 AIR CONTROL ROD ASSEMBLY 1
25 30064 3/16" X 1" CLEVIS PIN 1
26 AC05959 METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 342 g (12oz) AEROSOL 1

1

27 30507 BLACK TORX SCREW WITH FLAT HEAD TYPE F 1/4-20 X 3/4" 3
28 SE70579 ASH LIP ASSEMBLY 1
29 SE70576 LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL ASSEMBLY 1
30 PL70587 FACEPLATE EXTENSION 1
31 PL34052 LINER FIXATION BRACKET 3
32 SE45977 ARCHWAY 1700 INSTRUCTIONS MANUAL KIT 1
33 44080 RHEOSTAT WITHOUT NUT (MODEL KBMS-13BV) 1

Page 49

# Item Description Qty

34 44087 RHEOSTAT NUT 1
35 44085 RHEOSTAT KNOB 1
36 SE70580 BLOWER ASSEMBLY 1
37 60013 POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT (50 pcs per carton) 1
38 44028 CERAMIC THERMODISC F110-20F 1
39 44089 DOUBLE CAGE BLOWER 144 CFM 115V - 60Hz - 1.1A 1
40 WS1744BL 29" X 44" SURROUND FOR 1700 1
40 WS1750BL 32" X 50" SURROUND FOR 1700 1
41 PL70640 SURROUND SIDE PANEL 2
41 PL70674 SURROUND SIDE PANEL 30 X 50 2
42 PL70673 SURROUND TOP PANEL 30 X 50 1
42 PL70641 SURROUND TOP PANEL 1
43 29011 4'' X 9" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK HD 13
44 29020 4 1/2'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 4
45 PL70516 SECONDARY AIR TUBE 4
46 21521 C-CAST BAFFLE 1.25'' X 18.875'' X 9.5'' 1
47 30337 SQUARE HEAD SET SCREW 1/2-13 X 1-3/4" 2
48 WA5IN INSERT 5" FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT 1
49 SE70575 RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL ASSEMBLY 1

Page 50

EMPIRE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

EMPIRE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original retail purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty
covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory.
Proof of purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty
claim to the EMPIRE dealer.

This warranty applies to normal residential use only. This warranty is void if the unit is used to burn material other
than cordwood (for which the unit is not certified by EPA) and void if not operated according to the owner's manual.
Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation, lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident
during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, venting problems or under-estimated heating area are not covered
by this warranty. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity
to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.

This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused
by the use of unauthorized or other than original parts voids this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must
perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product and all local and national
building codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not covered by this warranty.

The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the
claim. Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. Transportation fees to ship
the product back to the purchaser will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed
at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. All
parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.

The manufacturer, at its discretion, may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation
of the defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty
by refunding the wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall, in no event, be
responsible for any uncommon, indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in excess of the original
purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts benefiting from lifetime coverage. This
warranty applies to products purchased after March 1

st

2019.

DESCRIPTION

Combustion chamber (welds only) and cast iron door frame. Lifetime 5 years
Ceramic glass**, plating (manufacturing defect**) and convector air-mate. Lifetime N/A
Surrounds, heat shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions), C-Cast
baffle**, vermiculite baffle**, secondary air tubes**, removable stainless steel combustion
chamber, deflectors and supports.
Handle assembly, glass retainers and air control mechanism. 5 years 3 years
Removable carbon steel combustion chamber components. 5 years N/A
Standard and optional blower, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring and electronics. 2 years 1 year
Paint (peeling**), gaskets, insulation, ceramic fiber blankets, firebricks and other options. 1 year N/A
All parts replaced under the warranty. 90 days N/A

*Subject to limitations above. **Picture required.

WARRANTY APPLICATION*

PARTS LABOUR

7 years N/A

Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on a predetermined rate schedule and
must not exceed the wholesale price of the replacement part.

Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your EMPIRE dealer. To accelerate processing of
your warranty claim, make sure to have on hand the following information when calling:

• Your name, address and telephone number;

• Bill of sale and dealer’s name;

• Installation configuration;

• Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;

• Nature of the defect and any relevant information.

Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain an Authorization Number from
your EMPIRE dealer. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused automatically
and returned to sender.

Last revised : March 2019

Page 51

Empire Comfort Systems, Inc.
918 Freeburg Avenue
Belleville, IL 62220
618 233.7420

www.empirecomfort.com

Manufactured by : Stove Builder International inc., 250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures, Qc, Canada. G3A 2H3, 418-908-8002