The Electro-Steam Generator design consists essentially of a high pressure chamber filled
with water that is heated by one or more submerged resistance type electric heating elements.
Automatic controls are provided to maintain the pre-set operating pressure and water level.
Safety features include: automatic low-water cutoff (manual low-water reset optional), dual
pressure controls, safety valve, and visible water level gauge. All of our generators are built in
accordance with A.S.M.E. Miniature Boiler Code and are individually inspected and stamped by
an Authorized National Board Insurance Inspector.
IMPORTANT – READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE OPERATING
NOTE: For generator measurements, refer to Installation Data Drawing attached. For
interpretation of numbered items, refer to Parts Legend Drawing attached. Ambient
temperature around this unit must not exceed 105°F.
INSTALLATION INSTUCTIONS:
Unpack the SWASH TM and set it on a level floor.
CONNECTIONS:
Periodically check all plumbing and electrical connections for tightness; this should also
be done before initial start-up.
ELECTRICAL:
This generator must be connected to a disconnect switch protected by
fuses or a circuit breaker with the proper size wire by a licensed
electrician in accordance with N.E.C. and your local codes – Voltage,
KW, and Phase requirement are marked on the nameplate.
WATER SUPPLY:
Connect city water line to Water Inlet (#6).
Purity: NOT to exceed 26,000 OHMS per CM
Temperature Range: 32°F – 140°F or 0°C – 60°C.
Pressure Range: 20PSI – 150PSI.
*CAUTION: The Pump (#8) requires clean tap water. If the water is not free of foreign
matter, a 5 micron cartridge filter should be installed in the water supply line.
STEAM OUTLET:
Connect the steam rated hose (Minimum 300°F and 100 PSI) to the Steam Outlet (#16).
x Steam pressure will continue to rise until it reaches 80 OR 20 PSI, depending on whether
it is in the HIGH or LOW Pressure setting. At this time, the “HIGH OR LOW CONTROL” Pressure Control (#12) will cause the contactor(s) to disengage. The
pressure will drop approximately 5-8 PSI until the “HIGH OR LOW CONTROL”
causes the contactor(s) to reengage, causing the pressure to rise again. The contactor(s)
will continue to cycle on and off during operation.
NOTE: Just because the generator is up to pressure does not necessarily mean it is up to
temperature. When first starting the generator, before using the steam gun/wand for
operation, you should open the Steam Outlet Valve (#16) and use the steam gun/wand to
exhaust pressure, allowing the heaters to remain on longer, thus increasing the
temperature inside the chamber and increasing its ability to recover from loss of steam.
WARNING – Steam hose and gun/wand will always be hot while Steam Outlet Valve
(#16) is open, even when gun is not is use.
8.The SWASH
NOTES:
When in the LOW PRESSURE MODE, if at anytime the “LOW CONTROL” fails
and the pressure exceeds 20 PSI, the “LOW SAFETY” will cause the contactor(s) to
disengage at 25 PSI and the Low Pressure Reset (#13a) will trip and illuminate. The
contactor(s) will be unable to reengage until the reset is pressed and the light goes out.
When in the LOW PRESSURE MODE, if at anytime the “LOW CONTROL and SAFETY” both fail, the Safety Valve (#18) will activate at 100 PSI, causing the Boiler
Chamber to quickly depressurize. If this happens, VERY HOT HIGH PRESSURE STEAM will exit the Safety Valve (#18) onto the floor.
When in the HIGH PRESSURE MODE, if at anytime the “HIGH CONTROL” fails
and the pressure exceeds 80 PSI, the “HIGH SAFETY” will cause the contactor(s) to
disengage at 85 PSI and the High Pressure Reset (#13b) will trip and illuminate. The
contactor(s) will be unable to reengage until the reset is pressed and the light goes out.
When in the HIGH PRESSURE MODE, if at anytime the “HIGH CONTROL and SAFETY” both fail, the Safety Valve (#18) will activate at 100 PSI, causing the Boiler
Chamber to quickly depressurize. If this happens, VERY HOT HIGH PRESSURE
STEAM will exit the Safety Valve (#18) onto the floor.
SHUT DOWN:
To shut off the SWASH TM Steam Generator, release the ON/OFF Switch (#2),
causing the light to go out. Pressure will drop naturally as the chamber cools, or the
SWASH
Manual Blow Down 3.1)
WARNING – HOT WATER and STEAM under HIGH PRESSURE can lift drain pipes
right off the ground and cause SERIOUS INJURY. Make sure drain pipe is SECURE and CANNOT move. The drain must be directed into a HIGH TEMPERATURE drain or
outside. (NO PVC) (VERY HOT HIGH PRESSURE STEAM may ruin asphalt)
TM
is now fully operational and will produce steam until it is turned off.
TM
Steam Generator may be drained manually through Manual Drain (#19). (See
The following cleaning procedures are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED in order to keep your
Steam Generator in the best operating condition at all times.
3.1) MANUAL “BLOW DOWN”
A Manual “Blow Down” is an easy way to GREATLY extend the life of your Steam
Generator. The following is the LEAST amount of times recommended to blow down your
SWASH
NOTE: The best time to Blow Down your SWASH TM Steam Generator is after it has been
running for some time, while it is still hot.
1. Place ON/OFF Switch (#2) and Main Disconnect Box in OFF position and/or unplug
2. Allow pressure to drop between 10 and 20 PSI.
3. Open the Drain Outlet (#19b) slowly by turning the Drain Handle (#19a)COUNTER
NOTE: Blow Down your generator at any pressure you feel comfortable with. 10 to 20 PSI is
only a recommendation. You may go higher or lower, but higher is always better.
WARNING – HOT WATER and STEAM under HIGH PRESSURE can lift drain pipes right
off the ground and cause SERIOUS INJURY. Make sure drain pipe is SECURE and CANNOT move. The drain must be directed into a HIGH TEMPERATURE drain or
outside. (NO PVC) (VERY HOT HIGH PRESSURE STEAM may ruin asphalt)
3.2) CLEANING WATER LEVEL PROBES
malfunctions are caused by dirty water level probes. CLEANING your PROBES is by far the
MOST IMPORTANT maintenance step to keep your SWASH
properly. The following is the LEAST amount of times recommended to clean your probes:
NOTE: The best time to clean your probes is before you turn your generator on, while it is still
cool.
1. Place ON/OFF Switch (#2) and Main Disconnect Box in OFF position and/or unplug
2. Make sure the generator is cool and the Pressure Gauge (#15) reads 0 PSI.
3. Remove the right panel of the generator (opposite the side of the Breaker Box (#17)).
4. Locate the Water Level Probes (#5) and pull the rubber boots off the probes plugs,
5. Use 5/16” Socket to remove wires from probes.
6. Use 13/16” Spark Plug Socket to remove probes from chamber.
TM
Steam Generator:
NORMAL WATER AREAS – Should be done ONCE A WEEK.
BAD WATER AREAS – Should be done ONCE A DAY.
the machine.
CLOCKWISE, allowing HOT WATER and STEAM to blow out of the drain, cleaning
out the Boiler Chamber.
Water Level Probes are the heart of your SWASH TM Steam Generator. Almost all
TM
Steam Generator running
NORMAL WATER AREAS – Should be done TWICE A YEAR.
BAD WATER AREAS – Should be done 3-4 TIMES A YEAR.
NOTE: To clean probes you may use wire wheel, wire brush, steal wool, or Scotch-Brite.
(Wire wheel works the best) You may also want to try some sort of chemical like CLR
remover or LIME-A-WAY.
8. Reinstall probes assuring each probe’s length is assigned to its proper letter.
9. Reconnect wires to probes assuring each color is also assigned to its proper letter.
NOTE: DO NOT make wires too tight. Just tighten enough to make contact. Over
tightening can cause probe plugs to pull apart over time.
10. Push rubber boots back over the probe plugs and reinstall the right panel.
Water Level Probe Specifications:
Letter Assignment on ChamberA B C D/G
Water Level Probe Length4 ½” Not Used3 ¾” 4 ¾”
Wire Color AssignmentRED Not Used BLACK GREEN
Assignment on Dual Function BoardLLCO Not UsedH G
WARNING – There MUST be NO PRESSURE in the chamber when removing probes. If you
must change probes while chamber is HOT, make sure the steam out and drain valves are open
to assure chamber will remain depressurized. DO NOT touch probes with your bare hands
while HOT, and be cautious of escaping steam from probe holes while probes are removed.
3.3) CLEANING OR REPLACING HEATERS
If (3.5) Chamber Chemical/Acid Treatments are not regularly done, The Electric Heaters
must be taken out at least ONCE A YEAR, cleaned with wire brush and reinstalled using a new
gasket. If you are replacing or cleaning your heating elements:
1. Place ON/OFF Switch (#2) and Main Disconnect Box in OFF position and/or unplug.
2. Make sure the SWASH TM Steam Generator is cool, completely drained, and the
Pressure Gauge (#15) reads 0 PSI.
3. Locate the Electric Heaters by removing the front panel and opening the Heater Cover
NOTE: If you are replacing a heater because of a heater failure, you must also clean the probes
Box (#4).
4. Remove the Heater Wires from the Electric Heaters, using an 11/32” or 3/8” Socket.
5. Unbolt and remove the Electric Heaters using a 1/2” Socket.
NOTE: The Electric Heaters may be difficult to get out; you may need to use some sort of
pry bar to get them loose.
6. Clean the Electric Heaters with wire brush. If replacing, dispose of the old Heaters.
7. Reinstall the Electric Heaters with new gaskets.
8. Attach the Heater Wires assuring proper wiring. *Refer to Heater Wiring Schematics
attached*
and clean out the chamber, or you may have another heater failure within 48 hours.
3.4) REPLACING GLASS GAUGE & RUBBER WASHERS OR
GLASS PACKINGS
The Sight Glass (#10) gives the operator the ability to easily monitor the actual water level
inside the chamber. If the Sight Glass (#10) gets clogged or is no longer functional, it can be very
difficult to troubleshoot a problem.
3.4.1) BRASS SIGHT GLASS (STANDARD)
GLASS GAUGE and RUBBER WASHERS
MUST be replaced EVERY SIX MONTHS
INSTALLATION:
Only properly trained personnel should install and
maintain water gauge glass and connections.
Remember to wear safety gloves and glasses
during installation. Before installing, make sure
all parts are free of chips and debris.
1. Uninstall GUARD RODS, GLASS GAUGE, and
RUBBER WASHERS. (You may need to rotate one of the
GAUGE FITTINGS to remove GLASS GAUGE)
2. Slip a new RUBBER WASHER on the new GLASS
GAUGE about an inch from the bottom.
3. Now slip the following items through the top of GLASS
GAUGE in the following order:
• FRICTION WASHER
• GLASS PACKING NUT (facing down)
• GLASS PACKING NUT (facing up)
• FRICTION WASHER
• RUBBER WASHER (inch down from top)
4. Gently insert GLASS GAUGE into GAUGE FITTINGS.
You may need to rotate GAUGE FITTINGS until
vertically aligned, after GLASS GAUGE is in.
5. Carefully raise GLASS GAUGE about 1/16” from bottom
and slide lower RUBBER WASHER down until it makes
contact with the BOTTOM GAUGE FITTING. (DO NOT
allow GLASS GAUGE to remain in contact with any metal)
6. Carefully slide upper RUBBER WASHER up as far as
possible.
7. Hand tighten both GLASS PACKING NUTS, then tighten
1/2 turn more by wrench. Tighten only enough to prevent
leakage. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! If any leakage
should occur, tighten slightly, a quarter turn at a time,
checking for leakage after each turn.
8. Reinstall GUARD RODS.
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