RACKS PER HOUR (NSF RATED)55
DISHES PER HOUR1375
GLASSES PER HOUR1375
OPERATING CYCLE (SECONDS)
WASH TIME41
RINSE TIME 11
TOTAL CYCLE TIME 62
TANK CAPACITY (GALLONS)
WASH TANK (MINIMUM)1.25
BOOSTER TANK6
WASH PUMP CAPACITY
GALLONS PER MINUTE55
TEMPERATURES
WASH---°F (MINIMUM)150
RINSE---°F (MINIMUM)180
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
WASH PUMP MOTOR HORSEPOWER3/4
NOTE: Typical Electrical Circuit is based upon (1) 125% of
the full amperage load of the machine and (2) typical
fixed-trip circuit breaker sizes as listed in the NEC 2002
Edition. Local codes may require more stringent protection than what is displayed here. Always verify with your
electrical service contractor that your circuit protection is
adequate and meets all applicable national and local
codes. These numbers are provided in this manual sim ply for reference and may change without notice at any
given time.
RINSETYPICAL
HEATER TOTAL ELECTRICAL
VOLTS PH HZ RATINGSAMPSCIRCUIT
380 3 5014KW@230V WYE 2330 AMP
WATER REQUIREMENTS
INLET TEMPERATURE (Minimum)110°F
WATER LINE SIZE NPT (Minimum)1/2”
DRAIN LINE SIZE NPT (Minimum)2”
FLOW PRESSURE P.S.I. 20A5
FRAME DIMENSIONS
WIDTH25 1/4”
DEPTH 25 1/4”
HEIGHT66 1/4”
STANDARD TABLE HEIGHT34”
MAXIMUM CLEARANCE19”
NOTE: Always refer to the machine data plate for specific
electrical and water requirements. The material provided
on this page is for reference only and may be subject to
change without notice.
VISUAL INSPECTION: Before installing the unit, check the container and machine for damage. A damaged container indicates
that there may be some damage to the machine. If there is damage to both the container and machine, do not throw away the
container. The dishmachine has been inspected and packed at the factory and is expected to arrive to you in new, undamaged
condition. However, rough handling by carriers or others may damage the unit while in transit. If this situation occurs, do not
return the unit to Ecolab; contact the carrier and ask them to inspect the damage to the unit and to complete an inspection
report. You must contact the carrier within 48 hours of receiving the machine.
UNPACKING THE DISHMACHINE: Once the machine has been removed from the container, ensure that there are no missing parts from the machine. This may not be obvious at first. If it is discovered that an item is missing, contact your Ecolab representative immediately to have the missing item shipped to you.
LEVEL THE DISHMACHINE: The dishmachine is designed to operate while being level. This is
important to prevent any damage to the machine during operation and to ensure the best results
when washing ware. The unit comes with adjustable bullet feet, which can be turned using a pair
of channel locks or by hand if the unit can be raised safely. Ensure that the unit is level from side
to side and from front to back before making any connections.
PLUMBING THE DISHMACHINE: All plumbing connections must comply with all applicable local, state, and national plumbing codes. The plumber is responsible for flushing the incoming water line prior to connecting it to remove all foreign debris that
may get trapped in the valves or cause an obstruction.
CONNECTING THE DRAIN LINE: The ES-2000HT drain requires a minimum of 2” NPT piping that is pitched at least 1/4” per
foot. There must also be an air gap between the machine drain line and the floor sink or drain. If a grease trap is required by
code, it should have a flow capacity of 5 gallons per minute.
Raise
Frame with Adjustable Foot
Lower
WATER SUPPLY CONNECTION: Read the section entitled “PLUMBING THE DISHMACHINE” above before proceeding.
Install the water supply line (1/2” pipe size minimum) to the dishmachine line strainer using copper pipe. It is recommended
that a water shut-off valve be installed between the main supply and the machine to allow access for service. The water supply line must be capable of 20A5 PSI “flow” pressure at the recommended temperature indicated on the data plate.
A water pressure regulating valve (PRV) is included as a standard item on the ES-2000HT. The pressure of the incoming water
should be adjusted to 20A5 PSI (flow) by turning the adjustment screw on the top of the PRV (clockwise to increase pressure,
counter-clockwise to decrease pressure). This adjustment must only be done while the incoming water fill solenoid valve is
open.
Do not confuse static pressure with flow pressure. Static pressure is the line pressure in a “no flow” condition (all valves and services are closed). Flow pressure
Adjusting screw
Locking nut
is the pressure in the fill line when the fill valve is opened during the cycle.
It is also recommended that a shock absorber (not supplied) be installed in the
incoming water line. This prevents line hammer (hydraulic shock), induced by the
solenoid valve, from causing damage to the equipment.
PLUMBING CHECK: Slowly turn on the water supply to the machine after connecting the incoming fill line and the drain line. Check for leaks and repair as
required. Leaks must be repaired prior to placing the machine in operation.
ELECTRICAL POWER CONNECTION: Electrical and grounding connections must comply with the applicable portions of the
National Electrical Code ANSI/NFPA 70 (latest edition) and/or other electrical codes.
Disconnect electrical power supply and lockout the disconnect switch to indicate that you are working on the circuit.
The dishmachine data plate is located on the right side front of the machine. Refer to the data plate machine voltage, total
amperage load and serial number.
To install the incoming power lines, open the lower control box by removing the
control box lid. Install 3/4” conduit into the pre-punched holes in the back of the
control box. Route power wires and connect to power block and grounding lug.
Install the service wires (L1, L2 & L3 (Where applicable)) to the appropriate terminals as they are marked on the terminal block. Install the grounding wire into
the lug provided.
It is recommended that “DE-OX” or another similar anti-oxidation agent be used
on all power connections.
VOLTAGE CHECK: Apply power to the dishmachine. Note: Do not turn the
machine on. Check the incoming power at the terminal block and ensure it cor-
responds to the voltage listed on the data plate. If not, contact a qualified service
agency to examine the problem. Do not run the dishmachine if the voltage is too
high or low. Shut off the service breaker and mark it as being for the dishmachine.
Advise all personnel of any problems and of the location of the service breaker.
Replace the control box cover and tighten the screws.
OPERATIONAL START-UP & CHECK: Before proceeding with start-up, verify the following:
1. Open the doors and verify that the pump intake strainer is correctly installed in the sump.
2. Check that the upper and lower rinse arms are securely screwed into their receptacles.
3. Check that the plugs are securely screwed into the ends of both wash arms and the rinse arms.
4. Check that the wash arms are securely screwed into the stationary bases and that they rotate freely.
5. Verify that the drain stopper is correctly installed at the drain seat.
QUICK START GUIDE: After the initial installation of the machine:
1. Insert chemical feeder pump stiffeners into appropriate containers.
2. Turn on machine.
POWER UP: To energize electrically, proceed as follows:
A. Turn on electrical power supply at the circuit breaker.
B. Check voltage at incoming terminals L1, L2 & L3. The voltage measured at these points should match data plate voltage.
C. If voltages are in required range, close the control box cover.
3. Before enabling the booster heater, the booster heater tank must first be filled with water.
TO FILL BOOSTER HEATER WITH WATER:
4. Press and hold the manual fill switch on the right side of the control box until you hear water being sprayed from the rinse
arms, indicating that the rinse tank is filled with water.
TO ENABLE THE BOOSTER HEATER:
5. Connect the orange/white wire in the control box from the heater contactor to the orange/white wire on terminal board 2.
NOTE: Ensure the orange/white wires at the heater contactor are connected properly. They have been purposely
disconnected at the factory to avoid damage to the heater element when there is no water in the booster tank.
6. Run a few machine cycles to verify the correct operation of the machine.
Check for water leaks.
Verify that the rinse temperature is between 180°F and 195°F for the entire rinse sequence. If it is not, before adjusting the rinse
thermostat, verify that the incoming water temperature is 110°F minimum and that the incoming water flow pressure is 20A5 psi
(measured during the rinse sequence). Adjust the pressure regulating valve as necessary to achieve 20A5 psi.
TO FILL WASH TUB: To Fill Wash Tub depress the “On -Off” switch to the “On” position. Depress and hold Fill Switch until you
see water draining out from the bottom of the machine. Open door for 3 seconds and close, this will start machine cycle. Allow
machine to complete one cycle, and then check for proper water level.
Note: Water must be in the sump while the machine is running to avoid running the pump dry and causing damage to the pump
seal.
If the water level is not at the level noted above it will require adjustment. Check to ensure that the recommended water pres-
sure is being supplied to the machine (20 ±5 PSI is required). If the water pressure is correct then the fill valve control will need
adjustment. Use the following steps to adjust the timer.
A. Open control box cover
B. Locate the electronic timer.
C. Refer to the next page for adjustment to the electronic timer.
NOTE: The machine must run a complete cycle to drain and fill. If the machine is not allowed to drain, the water will build up
inside the tub. After the initial fill, the rinse water for the current cycle will become the wash water for the next cycle.
The dishmachine is now ready to proceed with the washing of dishes.
PREPARING DISHES: Preparation of the ware will help ensure good results and less re-washes. If not done properly the dish-
es will not be clean and will reduce the efficiency of the dishmachine.
The following steps should be followed to ensure good results:
A. Remove all scraps and gross soil into a garbage can.
B. Separate and pre-soak silverware.
C. Separate and pre-soak the egg and casserole dishes.
D. Scrape all ware with a brush or spatula.
E. Flush cups, bowls and glasses with running water.
F. Prewash dishware by soaking or spraying with a pre-rinse hose.
G. Place dishes and cups in dish rack. Cups should be upside down (so they don’t hold water).
H. Place glasses and flatware in their respective racks. Scatter flatware loosely in rack. Glasses should be placed upside down
in a properly sized rack. For optimal results, flatware should be washed twice, the first being horizontal, the second in a special
rack to hold flatware vertical.
DAILY MACHINE PREPARATION: Before proceeding with start-up, verify the following:
A. Open door and verify that the sump strainer is in place in the sump.
B. Verify that the drain stopper is in position.
C. Check that the plugs are securely screwed into the ends of all wash arms.
D. Check that the wash arms are securely screwed into the stationary bases and rotate freely.
E. Check levels in all chemical containers and replace if empty.
F. For initial fill, close doors then depress the “FILL” switch to the “FILL” position.
WASHING A RACK OF WARE:
A. Open doors, place a full rack into the machine, and close doors. Unit will start automatically.
B. After cycle is completed open doors and remove rack.
C. Place another full rack into the dishmachine, and close doors.
D. Dishmachine will repeat cycle.
SHUT DOWN AND CLEANING:
A. At the end of mealtime, move the “OFF/ON” switch to the “OFF” position.
B. Open doors and manually remove drain stopper to drain the unit.
C. Remove and clean upper and lower wash arms.
D. Remove and clean the sump strainer.
TIMER PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS FOR (FOR INSTALLATION TECHNICIAN ONLY)
To access the programming mode, the machine must be ON, and idle (between cycles).
On the timer board, press and hold both the MOVE and ENTER buttons on the timer board simultaneously for two seconds.
The PROGRAM light will illumniate.
Once in the programming mode, the MOVE button is used to scroll between the programming categories and the ENTER but -
ton is used to select the category.
Press the MOVE button to move the blinking light between FILL, RINSE AID, DETERGENT or SANITIZER.
Press the ENTER button for the chosen category.
The PROGRAM light will illuminate.
To change the value of a parameter, use the MOVE button to illuminate the light next to the time option (time is in seconds). In
the time categories, each second in use will light up. To deselect the option, press ENTER and the light will go off, press ENTER
again and it will illuminate. Once you have set your time category, press the MOVE button to the ACCEPT option and press
ENTER. This will save the changed parameters.
Once you press the ENTER button when the ACCEPT option is illuminated, you will exit the programming mode. To change
any other values, you will have to return to the programming mode. To revert back to a previous setting, you must return to that
option and change the parameter back to the previous setting.
Once in the programming mode, if there have been no keypad inputs for approximately 2 minutes, the system will automati cally exit out of the programming mode. Any changes to parameters will be saved when the programming mode is automati cally exited.
The wash and drain settings are not adjustable.
All time adjustments are in seconds. Refer to the chart on the next page for the adjustable outputs.
The dishmachines covered in this manual are designed to operate with a minimum of interaction with the operator. However,
this does not mean that some items will not wear out in time.
There are many things that operators can do to prevent catastrophic damage to the dishmachine. One of the major causes of
component failure has to do with prescrapping procedures. A dishmachine is not a garbage disposal; any large pieces of material that are put into the machine shall remain in the machine until they are either broken up (after spreading out on your ware!)
or physically removed. Strainers are installed to help catch debris, but they do no good if they are clogged. Have operators regularly inspect the pan strainers to ensure (1) that they are free of soil and debris and (2) they are laying flat in the tub.
When cleaning out strainers, do NOT beat them on waste cans. The strainers are made of metal and can be forgiving; but once
severe damage is done, it is next to impossible for the strainer to work in the way it was designed to. Wipe out strainers with
a rag and rinse under a faucet if necessary. For stubborn debris, a toothpick should be able to dislodge any obstructions from
the perforations. Always ensure that strainers are placed back in the machine before operation and that they lay flat in the tub.
You may wish to contact your Ecolab representative in order to learn more about how your water hardness will effect the performance of your machine. Hard water makes dishmachines work harder and decreases efficiency.
Again, it is important to remind operators that trying to perform corrective maintenance on the dishmachine could lead to larger problems or even cause harm to the operator. If a problem is discovered; secure the dishmachine using proper shut down
procedures as listed in this manual and contact your Ecolab representative.
Some problems, however, may have nothing to do with the machine itself and no amount of preventative maintenance is going
to help. A common problem has to do with temperatures being too low. Verify that the water temperatures coming to your dishmachine match the requirements listed on the machine data plate. There can be a variety of reasons why your water temperature could be too low and you should discuss it with your Ecolab representative to determine what can be done.
By following the operating and cleaning instructions in this manual, you should get the most efficient results from your machine.
As a reminder, here are some steps to take to ensure that you are using the dishmachine the way it was designed to work:
1. Ensure that the water temperatures match those listed on the machine data plate.
2. Ensure that all strainers are in place before operating the machine.
3. Ensure that all wash and/or rinse arms are secure in the machine before operating.
4. Ensure that drains are closed/sealed before operating.
5. Remove as much soil from dishes by hand as possible before loading into racks.
6. Do not overfill racks.
7. Ensure that glasses are placed upside down in the rack.
8. Ensure that all chemicals being injected to machine have been verified as being at the correct concentrations.
9. Clean out the machine at the end of every workday as per the instructions in the manual.
10. Always contact your Ecolab representative whenever a serious problem arises.
11. Follow all safety procedures, whether listed in this manual or put forth by local, state or national codes/regulations.
This trouble-shooting guide will help identify failed components. Before replacing a component that has been identi fied as faulty, double-check the wiring to and from the component, to ensure that the problem is not first caused by a
loose or open connection.
Inspection, testing and repair of electrical equipment should be performed only by qualified service personnel. Certain procedures in this section require electrical tests or measurements while power is applied to the machine. Exercise extreme caution
at all times. If test points are not easily accessible, disconnect power, attach test equipment and reapply power to test. When
replacing electrical parts, disconnect power at source circuit breaker.
Problem: Machine will not turn on.
1. No power to dishmachine.
a. Check that service disconnect supplying power to the machine is ON.
b. Measure voltage at terminal block in lower control box. If no voltage exists, or the voltage does not match the voltage indi-
cated on the machine's data plate, seek the assistance of a qualified electrician.
Rinse booster tank must be filled with water before the heater is enabled to prevent damage to the heater element.
Problem: The temperature of the rinse water is too low, or the wash is being extended too often (when this feature is
enabled).
1. Incoming water pressure and/or temperature are not within required specifications. Check the temperature of the incoming
water. It must be 110°F minimum. Check the flow pressure of the incoming water (observe the indication on the pressure
gauge on the incoming water line when the incoming water solenoid valve is open). The pressure must be between 15 and 25
psi.
2. Rinse tank temperature setting is too low, or heater element has been disabled. It should typically be set at approximately
185°F, depending on the operating parameters at the particular installation. Confirm that the heater element has been enabled.
3. The rinse tank heating element is faulty. Using a clamp-type amp probe, measure the amperage through each coil of the
heater element wires. The amperage should be approximately equal through each coil. If not, replace the heater element. An
alternate method of checking the heater element is to first disconnect power to the machine, and then disconnect all wires at
the heater element. Measure the resistance of each coil of the heater element. The resistance measurements should be
approximately equal through each coil.
Problem: Machine will not fill or rinse.
1. The incoming water line is blocked, preventing water from entering the machine. Check and, if necessary, clean the Y-strain-
er on the incoming water line.
2. The incoming water solenoid valve is faulty. Replace solenoid valve.
Problem: Wash pump motor will not run.
1. The wash pump motor is faulty. If you hear the contactor engage when you try to manually run the pump and the pump
does not run, the pump motor is faulty and must be replaced. The motor contains integral thermal overload protection devices.
If the motor becomes hot from excessive loads, these devices open the electrical circuit within the motor and prevent the motor
from running. Before replacing the motor, allow it to cool so that the overload devices can reset themselves, and then re-test
the motor. If the motor still does not run, replace the motor.
Problem: Machine runs with the doors open.
1. Door switch is faulty. Disconnect the door switch leads and check for continuity between the two leads when the doors are
open. If continuity, replace door switch.
Problem: Machine will not drain. Drain mechanism does not move up or down.
1. Loose wire connection. Verify that all wire connections are tight.
2. Drain hole may be obstructed. Remove the obstruction.
3. Drain rod bent or binding. Repair the rod, or replace as necessary.
5. Faulty timer. After wash when drain should occur check voltage between blue/red and
red wires. If no voltage check wires and connectors for continuity, if okay, replace
timer.
Problem: Machine fills continuously, either when machine is off or on.
1. Faulty water solenoid valve.
a. First check that valve is installed correctly relative to flow direction (there is an arrow on the valve body which indicates
the direction of flow).
b. Valve is stuck in open position or damage has occurred to the diaphragm within the valve. Replace valve.
Problem: Dishmachine will not run with power switch in the "ON" position.
1. Check secondary voltage on control transformer. If no voltage, check voltage to primary. Voltage "yes" replace transformer
if no check circuit breaker for continuity if open reset. If it cannot be reset replace it.
2.Check power switch. With switch on, check for voltage between WHITE and RED wires. If no voltage, replace switch.
3.Check door switch. With the door open, check for voltage between the GREY and RED wires. If no voltage, replace the door
switch.
4. Check timer for blinking light on light bar. If there is no light, check voltage to J1-9 and J1-10. If there is no voltage check
wires and connector for continuity, if okay replace timer.
Problem: Dishmachine will not cycle with power switch in the "ON" position, works only in Delime Mode.
1. Check timer for blinking light on light bar. If there is no light, check voltage to J1-9 and J1-10. If there is no voltage check
wires and connector for continuity, if okay replace timer.
Problem: Dishmachine cycles continuously.
1. Dishmachine is in Delime Mode. Put the NORMAL/DELIME switch in the "NORMAL" position.
Problem: Dishmachine will not fill, though other functions work.
1. Y-strainer on incoming water line plugged or clogged. Remove strainer and clean out.
2. Water supply valve(s) turned off. Turn the valve(s) on.
3. Faulty solenoid valve diaphragm. Replace diaphragm, clean foreign material out of valve body and orifices.
4. Faulty solenoid coil. If the coil has voltage, replace the coil.
5. Faulty timer. During fill, measure the voltage between the BLUE and RED wires. If it reads 120 volts, timer is okay. If there
is no voltage check wires and connector for continuity, if okay replace timer.
Problem: Dishmachine fills continuously, even without power applied to the machine.
1. Solenoid valve dirty or faulty. Clean valve or replace faulty parts as required.
Problem: Dishmachine fills continuously, only when power is supplied to the machine.
1. Faulty fill switch. Check continuity of fill switch, if closed replace.
2. Faulty timer, check voltage between J3-5 and RED wire if always reads voltage replace timer.
Problem: The wash motor does not run, other functions work.
1. Loose wire connection to timer or contactor. Tighten wires as required.
2. Faulty wash relay. Check the voltage at the relay coil between the YELLOW and RED wires. If you read 120 volts and con-
tacts do not pull in, then the coil is faulty. Replace the wash relay.
3. Faulty timer. During wash check voltage between yellow and
red wires. If no voltage check wires and connectors for continuity, if okay, replace
timer.
These dishmachines are equipped with electrical
solenoid valves to allow for automatic fill and rinse. These
valves are designed to specific tolerances and design aspects
that must be met in order to function properly.
Ecolab offers repair kits for replacing some of the
wear items associated with solenoid valves which will allow
you to save money in that replacement of these parts can take
place without removing the solenoid valve from the plumbing
assembly.
The instructions provided here are for maintenance
personnel only. Unauthorized persons should not attempt any
of the steps contained in these instructions.
Warning: many of the instructions and steps
within this document require the use of tools. Only autho rized personnel should ever perform any maintenance
procedure on the dishmachine!
PREPARATION
1. Power must be secured to the unit at the service
breaker. Tag or lock out the service breaker to prevent accidental or unauthorized energizing of the machine.
2. Ensure that incoming water to the machine is
secured either by use of a shut-off valve or disconnecting the
incoming water line.
TOOLS REQUIRED
The following tools will be needed to perform this
maintenance evolution:
1. Small flathead screwdriver
2. Medium flathead screwdriver
2. Needle nose pliers
3. 5/16” nutdriver
4. Channel locks
5. 12” pipe wrench
STEPS
1. Remove the top screw with the 5/16” nutdriver. Remove the
screw and the data plate and set to the side.
Removing the top screw
2. With the top screw and data plate removed, grasp the solenoid coil and gently pull up. The coil should slide up, allowing
you to remove it from the valve bonnet. If you are wanting to
replace the coil, continue on with Step 3. If you are wanting to
replace some of the internal components of the valve, proceed to step 12.
TIME REQUIRED
It is estimated that it will take (1) person twenty min utes to perform this task, not including all of the items indicated in the section entitled “PREPARATION”.
IMPORTANT NOTES
1. Read these instructions thoroughly before
attempting this maintenance evolution. Become familiar with
the parts and what actions need to be taken. This will save
time in the long run!
2. The procedures demonstrated in this manual are
shown being performed on an ES-4400 rack conveyor dishmachine. The actual maintenance steps, however, apply to
any Parker style solenoid valve found on a Ecolab dishmachine.
3. NOTE: Replacing the solenoid coil requires working with
the wiring of your machine. It is important that all wiring maintenance be performed by qualified personnel. Always verify
the wiring steps presented in this instruction with the schematic that shipped with the unit. A current schematic can also be
found in the unit’s installation manual. Before beginning any
step that involves working with wiring, ensure that the steps
located in the section entitled “Preparation” have been performed. Power must be secured to the machine at the service
breaker. Failure to do so could result in severe injury to maintenance personnel.
Issued: 07-10-2006 Revised: N/A
19
SECTION 5: SERVICE PROCEDURES
RINSE SOLENOID VALVE REPAIR PARTS KIT (CONTINUED)
Prying open the coil wire cover
4. When replacing the coil, ensure that when removing the coil
wire cover that care is taken not to damage the wires inside.
Using the medium flathead screwdriver, gently use it to open
the cover enough to where it could be pulled off.
Straightening the wires
5. Once the coil wire cover has been removed and set to the
side, take the internal wires and pull them out straight.
Loosening the conduit nut
7. Using a pair of channel locks, gently loosen the conduit
retaining ring for the conduit nut. Once it is loosened, use your
fingers to unscrew and remove it.
8. Pull the conduit away and discard the bad coil. Take the
new coil and attach the conduit, reinstall & tighten the conduit
nut, and pull the wires through so that you will be able to wire
the valve back up.
9. Reconnect the wires from the conduit to the wires from the
solenoid as they had been connected previously. Ensure that
the wire nuts are on tight.
10. Slide the coil wire cover back on, taking care not to damage the wires.
11. If you are done performing maintenance on the valve, continue on to step 23. Otherwise, please go on to step 12.L
Removing the wire nuts
6. Remove the wire nuts from the wires and separate them.
12. To remove the valve bonnet, grasp it with the jaws of the
pipe wrench and turn to the left. Note: on some models you
may have to remove the valve in order to perform this and any
further steps. Be careful not to damage the plumbing assembly. Only use the pipe wrench enough to where you can spin
the valve bonnet off with your hand.
Issued: 07-10-2006 Revised: N/A
20
SECTION 5: SERVICE PROCEDURES
RINSE SOLENOID VALVE REPAIR PARTS KIT (CONTINUED)
Removing the valve bonnet
13. Slowly remove the valve bonnet. Note: The spring for the
plunger is located directly under the bonnet and may come
free if you are not careful. Remove the plunger, spring and
valve bonnet and place to the side.
Removing the diaphragm
17. Remove the diaphragm retainer and then the diaphragm
itself. Many problems associated with a solenoid valve can be
traced to a clogged pilot port in the diaphragm.
Removing the O-ring
14. Remove the O-ring and inspect it. If it has any tears or cuts
or excessive flat spaces, it should be replaced.
15. Examine the threads for the valve bonnet. Check them for
scoring or signs of damage. Take a cloth and clean them out
to remove any foreign particles that might get lodged in the
threads and cause a leak. Severely damage threads should
not be repaired; instead it is recommended that the entire
valve should be replaced. These instructions do not provide
information on replacing the solenoid valve.
16. Note: Even though an O-ring may not appear damaged, it
is a good idea to go ahead and replace it if you have a new
one. This will help ensure that your valve remains leak-free in
the future!
18. As indicated in the photo above, the extension hole can
become clogged. If it is difficult to clean out, you can use a
heated straight pin to push through the hole. The center hole,
the pilot port, must also be clear. If the diaphragm is torn or
bent in any way, it must be replaced.
1
2
Diaphragm showing (1) pilot port and (2) extension hole
21
SECTION 5: SERVICE PROCEDURES
RINSE SOLENOID VALVE REPAIR PARTS KIT (CONTINUED)
21. With the mesh screen removed, look down into the valve
and verify it is not clogged. Remove any foreign objects from
the valve body that would obstruct flow.
22. Reassemble the valve, reversing the steps needed to take
it apart. Replace defective replacement parts with new parts
from ordered kits. Ensure that components are sufficiently
tightened to prevent leakage.
AFTER MAINTENANCE ACTIONS
Removing the screen retainer
19. Using the small flathead screwdriver, lift out the screen
retainer. Verify that the holes in it are free of clogs and debris.
Removing the mesh strainer screen
20. Again using the small flathead screwdriver, carefully
remove the mesh screen from inside the valve body. The
screen should be taken and rinsed out to remove any debris
fouling it.
Reconnect the incoming water (if disconnected) and
turn on. Then restore power to the unit. Run the unit for at
least 10 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. If any problems
arise please contact your Ecolab representative.
SPECIAL PARTS
Repair kit includes: Plunger, Spring, O-ring, and
Diaphragm.
Solenoid Valve Plunger Kit
Includes plunger and spring
Part number 06401-003-07-40
Solenoid Valve Diaphragm Kit
Includes diaphragm and o-ring
Part number 06401-003-07-41 (1/2” NPT)
Part number 06401-003-07-42 (3/4” NPT)
Solenoid Valve 110 Volt Coil and Housing
Part number 06401-003-07-43
Solenoid Valve 230 Volt Coil and Housing
Part number 06401-003-07-43
Complete Solenoid Valve
Part number 04810-100-12-18 (1/2”, 110 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-09-18 (1/2”, 230 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-53-00 (3/4”, 110 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-03-18 (3/4”, 230 Volt)
These dishmachines are equipped with vacuum
breakers to serve as back-flow prevention devices. ASSE
requirements specify what type of back-flow prevention is necessary on dishmachines. Vacuum breakers, unlike air gaps,
have certain parts that have specific tolerances and design
aspects that must be met in order to function properly.
Ecolab offers repair kits for replacing some of the
wear items associated with vacuum breakers which will allow
you to save money in that replacement of these parts can take
place without removing the vacuum breaker from the plumbing assembly.
The instructions provided here are for maintenance
personnel only. Unauthorized persons should not attempt any
of the steps contained in these instructions.
Warning: many of the instructions and steps
within this document require the use of tools. Only autho rized personnel should ever perform any maintenance
procedure on the dishmachine!
PREPARATION
1. Power must be secured to the unit at the service
breaker. Tag or lock out the service breaker to prevent accidental or unauthorized energizing of the machine.
2. Ensure that incoming water to the machine is
secured either by use of a shut-off valve or disconnecting the
incoming water line.
TOOLS REQUIRED
STEPS
1. Note: These instructions only apply to vacuum breakers
(1/2” NPT and 3/4” NPT) as pictured below. The repair kits
indicated in these instructions will only work on those style of
back-flow preventers. If you have a machine with a different
style of vacuum breaker, contact your Ecolab representative
about replacement components.
Vacuum breaker
2. Note: Even though the photos in these instructions show a
vacuum breaker that has been removed from the plumbing
assembly, these maintenance steps could be performed with
it installed so long as the requirements in the section entitled
“PREPARATION” have been met.
3. Remove the top cap by gripping firmly and turning to the
left. The cap should come off after a few turns.
The following tools will be needed to perform this
maintenance evolution:
1. Small flathead screwdriver
2. Needle nose pliers
TIME REQUIRED
It is estimated that it will take (1) person twenty min utes to perform this task, not including all of the items indicated in the section entitled “PREPARATION”.
IMPORTANT NOTES
1. Read these instructions thoroughly before
attempting this maintenance evolution. Become familiar with
the parts and what actions need to be taken. This will save
time in the long run!
Removing the cap
4. Set the cap to the side.
5. Using the needle nose pliers, gently lift out the plunger and
set to the side. Examine the brass seating surface inside the
vacuum breaker. The plunger is required to sit flat on this surface so it must be free of defects, imperfections and the like.
If there is debris, remove it. If it is chipped or cracked then the
vacuum breaker must be replaced. Failure to do so may result
in the vacuum breaker not working according to its design and
could result in damage to the dishmachine.
6. Your repair kit comes with a new plunger. Examine the old
one and ensure that the mating surface is not damaged or cut.
Also inspect the rubber seal on the top of the plunger to
ensure it is in good condition and not torn.
7. If any of these conditions are present, replace the old
plunger with the new one from your kit. Verify that the new
plunger is also free from defects. If it is not, contact your
Ecolab representative immediately.
8. The plunger should drop into the vacuum breaker and seat.
Ensure it is not flipped upside down (the orange seal ring
should be up towards the top of the vacuum breaker).
9. Pick up the cap and examine it. With a soft towel, remove
any grit, grime or debris that may have gotten caught in the
threads of both the cap retainer or the vacuum breaker body.
There is an O-ring that should be present on the cap retainer
as well. Regardless of the condition of the plunger, this O-ring
should be replaced once the cap is removed. Using a small
flathead screwdriver, remove the old O-ring.
Examining the seal ring on the plunger
Examining the plunger seating surface
Replacing the O-ring
10. With the new O-ring in place, screw the cap back on the
vacuum breaker body. The cap needs to only be hand tight
(snug).
AFTER MAINTENANCE ACTIONS
1. Reconnect the incoming water (if disconnected)
and turn on. Then restore power to the unit. Run the unit for
at least 10 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. If any problems arise please contact your Ecolab representative.
SPECIAL PARTS
To order the kit with components and instructions:
Components of 1/2” Repair Kit
REGULATOR WATER 1/4"PIPE, 180F04820-011-69-05
REGULATOR WATER 1/2"PIPE, 140F04820-100-04-07
REGULATOR WATER 3/4"PIPE, 180F04820-100-01-06
REPAIR KIT 3/4" WATER REGULATORN/A
STRAINER Y 1/2" PIPE04730-217-01-10
STRAINER Y 3/4" PIPE04730-717-02-06
SCREEN, COARSE 3/4”N/A
SCREEN, FINE 3/4”N/A
Complete Solenoid Valve
Part number 04810-100-12-18 (1/2”, 110 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-09-18 (1/2”, 230 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-53-00 (3/4”, 110 Volt)
Part number 04810-100-03-18 (3/4”, 230 Volt)
Solenoid Valve Plunger Kit
Includes plunger and spring
Part number 06401-003-07-40
Solenoid Valve Diaphragm Kit
Includes diaphragm and o-ring
Part number 06401-003-07-41 (1/2” NPT)
Part number 06401-003-07-42 (3/4” NPT)
TO DISASSEMBLE - These valves may be taken apart by
unscrewing the bonnet and the enclosing tube assembly from the
valve body assembly. After unscrewing, carefully lift off the bonnet
and enclosing tube assembly. Don’t drop the plunger. The o-ring
seal and diaphragm cartridge can now be lifted out. Be careful not
to damage the machined faces while the valve is apart.
TO REASSEMBLE - Place the diaphragm cartridge in the body
with the pilot port extension UP. Hold the plunger with the synthet ic seat against the pilot port. Make sure the o-ring is in place, then
lower the bonnet and enclosing tube assembly over the plunger.
Screw the bonnet assembly snugly down on the body assembly.
1Complete Cantilever Arm Assembly (Items 1-14)05700-002-79-18
11Arm, Cantilever05700-031-50-67
21Spring Pin, 1/4” Dia. x 1 1/8” Long05315-407-06-00
32Yoke Assembly05700-000-75-77
42Rod, Spring05700-001-28-18
52Spring, Cantilever05340-109-02-00
62Bolt, Hanger Eye 3/8"-1605306-956-05-00
72Washer, Impeller 3/8” I.D. x 7/8” O.D.05311-176-02-00
84Nut, 3/8”-16 S/S Hex05310-276-01-00
92Cantilever Arm Connector05700-011-90-99
102Screw, 1/4"-20 x 1 1/2" Long S/S05305-274-23-00
112Washer, 1/4" ID S/S05311-174-01-00
122Locknut, 1/4”-20 S/S Hex with Nylon Insert, Low Profile05310-374-02-00
132Sleeve, Cantilever Arm05700-000-85-69
142Plug, Cantilever Arm05340-011-35-00
151Magnet, Reed Switch05930-002-68-53
162Locknut, 8-32 S/S Hex with Nylon Insert05310-272-02-00
171Right Door Weldment with Studs05700-002-22-25
1Door Assembly, Right Side with Door Guides05700-003-05-35
171Right Door Weldment with Studs (Vapor Vent Mode)05700-002-75-93
186Door, Guides05700-111-33-59
192Screw, 1/4"-20 x 1/2" Long S/S05305-274-02-00
202Spacer, PB Bolt05700-000-29-40
214Locknut, 1/4”-20 S/S Hex with Nylon Insert05310-374-01-00
222Door Connector Bracket05700-021-33-39
231Door Only, Front05700-002-20-09
1Door Assembly, Front with Door Guides05700-003-05-36
241Door Only, Left Side05700-002-20-08
1Door Assembly, Left Side with Door Guides05700-003-05-37
25*2Bracket, Cantilever Arm Support05700-031-88-00
26*6Wear Button, 1/2" Dia. UHMW05700-011-88-01
11Regulator, 1/2"04820-100-04-07
24Adapter, FTG x Male , 1/2" Copper04730-011-59-53
31Tee, 1/2" C x 1/2" C x 1/4", FNPT, Brass04730-411-25-01
41Ball Valve, Test Cock, 1/4", Brass04810-011-72-67
51Pressure Gauge, 0-100 PSI06685-111-88-34
1Decal, 15-25 PSI09905-002-97-94
61Elbow, 1/2" C to FTG, 90 °04730-406-31-01
71Copper Tube, 1/2" x 6 1/2”05700-002-60-71
81Copper Tube, 1/2” x 5 1/8”05700-003-23-47
91Solenoid Valve, 1/2", 110 Volt04810-100-12-18
102Union, 1/2" C to C 04730-412-05-01
112Copper Tube, 1/2" x 3"05700-001-05-21
121Elbow, 1/2" C to C, 90 °04730-406-01-01
131Valve, Ball04820-100-15-00
143Adapter, CU x Male, 1/2" Copper04730-401-03-01