
Microwave Motion Detector
PN: ece-S-17-002
Figure 1
Overview:
We’ve been looking for a microwave motion detector in the one hundred dollar range for the past couple of years.
Once, we even considered developing one from scratch but then we found this one. First of all, why a microwave
motion detector. There are two basic motion detector technologies available today: motion detector and pyroelectic
infrared (PIR). PIR motion detectors are good in certain situations, but there biggest limitation is they have to have
an open field of sight to their target. You cannot bury them behind the exhibit structure and have them work. The
microwave detectors’ limitation is it cannot be behind metal, but it works great even when hidden by most nonmetallic materials (wood, MDF, fiberglass, etc). So, it can be buried in a non-metallic exhibit where it is hidden but
still detects visitors’ motion.
Most of the microwave motion detectors were developed for automatic door opener systems. Most units even use
the same German manufacturer’s microwave module for the RF portion of the sensor, as does the one we offer.
And, they are generally pretty pricey. If you contact a security/automatic door supplier, they are typically $250-$400.
In their low end, Bircher-Reglomat makes a device called “PrimeMotion” which is what most organizations use for
museum/exhibits. But, even at its most reasonable price, it is around $180. We think our unit, at $100, might be an
attractive alternative.
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Sensor Layout:
LED
FLASHESDURINGPWRUP.
ONDURINGDETECTION.
POLARIZED
CONNECTOR
_______________________
BROWN
GREEN
WHITE}RELAY–COMMON
YELLOW}RELAY–NO
}PWR
PLANARANTENNA
SENSITIVITYADJUSTMENT
(POTENTIOM ETER)
Figure 2
Installation Tips:
- Mount to a secure surface that is not subject to motion or vibration.
- Do not mount behind a metal surface.
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Avoid moving objects (examples: wind blown curtains or an oscillating fan) within the target path.
Avoid HF lamps or fluorescent lighting in close proximity of the sensor.
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Avoid touching the electronic circuit board, which is susceptible to electrostatic discharge.
Use the included template for identifying the placement of the securing screws.
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To remove the cover from the mounting plate, gently pry it with a small flat blade screwdriver at the back
center joint right below the LED window.
- Use the grommet holes for passing the cable through and tuck into the recessed area in the back of the
mounting plate before it exits one of the two holes provided for that purpose. Do not bend the cable sharply,
but rather leave a gentle service loop in the cable from the circuit board connection as it is routed through
the grommet hole. We suggest using a zip tie as strain relief to prevent pulling the service loop too tight.
See Fig. 3 for the service loop and zip tie and Fig. 4 for routing on the aft side of the mounting plate.
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