Your heating cable has been designed to prevent water supply pipes from
freezing in winter. In addition, the heating cable has been designed for a quick,
easy and professional installation. State-of-the-art plumbing ttings, electrical
controls and heating cable have been provided to ensure a safe,economical
and long-lasting water line freeze protection.
These heating cables are primarily designed for use in water supply lines for
residential and commercial applications. Do not use this heating cable for other
types of applications without rst contacting Easy Heat Ltd. for professional
advice.
We recommend that the heating cable kit be installed by persons with adequate
knowledge of plumbing and electrical installations.
CAUTION – READ THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSTALLATION
For 1.25” diameter Polyethylene
Water Pipes
Read carefully and follow these instructions for an efcient, safe and economical
installation. It is important that you assemble the proper tools and other supplies
(e.g. insulation, plumbing ttings, etc.) prior to beginning your heating cable
installation.
With proper installation, this heating cable will provide many years of trouble free
service. We recommend you retain these instructions for future reference.
99 Union Street
Elmira, ON N3B 3L7
Tel: 800-794-3766
Fax: 800-361-4574
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR EASY HEAT
IN-LINE PIPE HEATING CABLE
LIMITED WARRANTY AND LIABILITY
Easy Heat warrants that if there are any defects in material or workmanship in this product
during the rst year after the date of its purchase, we will replace the product with an equivalent
model, not including any labor or other installation costs.
Our obligation to replace the product as described above is conditioned upon (a) the installation
of the product conforms to the specications set forth in our installation instructions and (b) the
product not having been damaged by unrelated mechanical or electrical activities.
Product replacement as described above shall be your sole and exclusive remedy
for a breach of this warranty. This limited warranty does not cover any service costs
relating to repair or replacement.
We shall not be liable for any incidental, special or consequential damages as a result of
any breach of this warranty or otherwise, whether or not caused by negligence. Some
states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the
above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
The warranty above is exclusive and makes no other warranties with respect to description or
quality of the product. No afrmation of fact or promise made by us, by words or action, shall
constitute a warranty. If any model or sample was shown to you, the model or sample was
used merely to illustrate the general type and quality of the goods and not to represent that the
goods would necessarily be of that type or nature. No agent, employee or representative of
ours has authority to bind us to any afrmation, representation or warranty concerning
the goods sold unless such afrmation, representation or warranty is specically
incorporated by written agreement.
Any implied warranty of merchantability or tness for particular purpose that may arise
in connection with the sale of this product shall be limited in duration to one year from
the date of purchase. We disclaim all other implied warranties, unless we are prohibited
by law from doing so, in which case all such implied warranties shall expire at the earliest
time permitted by applicable law. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied
warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you.
This warranty gives you specic legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary
from state to state or province to province.
To obtain a replacement under this warranty any inoperative product or component must
be returned, with proof of purchase, to Easy Heat at the addresses noted herein. Buyer is
responsible for all costs incurred in removal and re-installation of product and must pre-pay
shipment to factory or point of purchase.
In Canada In USA
Heating Cable Warranty Department Heating Cable Warranty Department
99 Union Street 2 Connecticut South Drive
Elmira, ON N3B 3L7 East Granby, CT 06026
CAUTION – READ THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSTALLATION
1. Do not attempt to pull the cable by the end connector; this connector
prevents the inltration of water into the cable, and excessive force could
damage this seal. The cable has been provided with a pull cord to ensure
that the cable is not damaged when being pulled through the piping.
2. The heating cable cannot be altered in length. Any attempt to physically
alter the heating cable will void the warranty. Once cut, the heating cable
cannot be repaired.
3. If the heating cable is insufciently exible to facilitate installation, perhaps
due to cold temperature, first completely uncoil the cable and then plug it
into a 120 VAC outlet until it is warm and pliable. The cable can then be
installed in the pipe. NEVER PLUG IN THE HEATING CABLE WHILE IT IS COILED. If the heating cable touches itself while plugged in, as would
be the case if the cable is coiled, the outer PVC jacket will melt. This could
result in a loss of electrical insulation and, as the cable cools after it is
unplugged, the jacket will fuse together and the cable then could not be
uncoiled. A cable damaged in this manner must be discarded and is not
warranted.
4. Do not install heating cable in pipes that are heated to above 66°C
(155°F).
5. If the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) trips during normal operation,
and cannot be reset, then there is likely a fault in the cable and the heating
cable system should not be energized. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
SHOULD THE GFCI BE BYPASSED.
6. The cable has been pre-assembled and sealed to the T-coupling; do not
alter the T-coupling connection as damage to the cable and/or coupling
could result.
WARNING
The plastic tting surrounding the black power supply cord is factory
tightened. If additional tightening of the tting is required to stop
leakage, do so in 1/8 turn increments. Overtightening may damage the
cord and result in electrical failure.
7. The heating cable must be installed straight inside the pipe and must not touch, cross, or overlap itself at any point inside the water pipe, as this
could cause the cable to overheat and melt the cable (and/or the plastic
pipe). This could then result in a ground fault or short circuit, which would
require replacement of the cable.
List of Components
The following components are included in your in-line pipe heating cable kit:
• heating cable pre-assembled to T-coupling **Warning: The heating cable
has been pre-assembled and sealed to the T-coupling at the factory – do
not adjust these connections as damage to the T-coupling, cable and/or
seal may occur.
• stainless steel end connector clip.
• power control enclosure (SL1-G or SL2-G), includes thermostat and GFCI
receptacle.
• two tie-wraps (to attach thermostat sensor to pipe).
The longer lengths of heating cables are supplied on a convenient spool.
DO NOT REMOVE THE HEATING CABLE/T-COUPLING FROM THE CABLE
SPOOL.
In addition, you will require insulation and protective covering (to reduce wind chill
effect) for any exposed areas of pipe, an assortment of tools (e.g. electrician’s
sh tape), plumbing supplies, etc., depending on your specic installation.
Preparation for Installation of Heating Cable
This heating cable has been designed to prevent water supply pipes from
freezing. It is expected that the cable will be entirely inserted into 11/4” diameter,
buried and/or insulated, polyethylene water piping. In addition, if the cable is
being installed in a pressurized pipe, it is recommended that the maximum
system pressure be less than 60 psig. The heating cable life expectancy can
be extended if the cable is installed in non-pressurized piping. For example, the
installation of a check valve at the suction port of a jet pump will ensure that the
suction piping is not pressurized; hence, a heating cable in the suction piping
will not be subjected to system pressure.
The heating cable inside the pipe should extend beyond the furthest point of
the pipe, which would, if unheated, be expected to freeze in winter. The pipe
itself can, if necessary, further extend beyond the end of the cable. Refer to
Figure A.
It is not possible to alter the length of the cable to accommodate a nonstandard
length of piping. These heating cables are available in a wide variety of standard
lengths; ensure that the cable you have chosen for your installation is of
appropriate length.
The insulation of the complete length of the outdoor piping is optional, except
in areas of extreme cold. Insulation of the piping is best accomplished by the
use of a maximum of 1/2” thick polyethylene foam (PEF) insulation, such as
the “Tundra®” insulation available at most hardware stores. (Unlike berglass,
polyethylene foam insulation is not affected by water). The addition of the 1/2”
thick PEF jacket will greatly improve the freeze protection capability and energy
efciency of any installation; the associated energy savings and enhanced pipe
freeze protection will more than offset the small cost of that insulation.
WARNING: Never use more than ½” thick polyethylene foam (PEF) or other
equivalent non-ammable insulation. Over insulation can cause the heating
cable to overheat and cause serious re hazard or electrical shock.
If uninsulated, the water supply pipe should be buried in at least 3” of topsoil or
sand. Any sections of pipe exposed to the elements should be insulated and
protected from wind, as the “wind chill factor” can be a serious impediment to
the performance of the heating cable. For example, a large drainpipe can be
used to protect the water pipe from wind chill effects and from such damage as
may occur due to, for example, ice movement at the water shore.
Insulation of underwater piping can present signicant problems, primarily due to
the fact that PEF insulation is quite buoyant and will tend to make the water pipe
oat on the surface of the water. This can be overcome by attaching weights, such
as steel or concrete, to the insulated piping. In general, insulation of underwater
piping is probably not necessary below about the 1 foot water depth.
It is recommended that the in-line pipe heating cable system be energized at
all times during the winter season such that water supply pipes do not freeze.
(During warmer winter periods, the thermostat control will automatically
disconnect power from the heating cable to minimize energy consumption). In
the event that the water pipe freezes, such as might happen during an electrical
power interruption, it might take a few hours to thaw a frozen pipe once power is
restored, depending on the weather conditions, duration of power outage, etc.
It is not recommended that the cable be used to regularly thaw uninsulated
frozen pipes. If power outages of 24 hours or more are frequently expected,
or if the cable is to be used to regularly thaw frozen pipes, it is recommended
that the complete length of outdoor piping be insulated.
The heating cable must only be plugged into the receptacle in the power control
enclosure. Hence, the power control enclosure must be mounted in close
proximity to the cable exit from the T-coupling. Refer to Figure B. Ideally, the
power control enclosure should be located within 10 ft of the estimated coldest
point of the water pipe such that the thermostat sensor can be attached there.
This ensures that heat is always applied to the pipe as required to ensure that
the coldest point does not freeze.
If it is not possible to locate the power control enclosure within 10 ft of the
estimated coldest point of the water pipe, the thermostat adjustment capability
can compensate for this. In such a case, however, the thermostat sensor must be installed onto a section of the piping, which is expected to be reasonably
cold. In a typical installation of a home/cottage located on a lake with a rocky
shoreline, the piping on the outside of the cottage/home foundation could usually
be expected to be reasonably cold, even though not as cold, perhaps, as the
piping at the rocky lakeshore. Attaching the thermostat sensor to the piping
immediately outside the building foundation and increasing the thermostat
setpoint will still enable the thermostat control to keep the coldest section of
piping from freezing while minimizing energy consumption. Refer also to the
section “Operation of the Heating Cable”.
It is recommended that the power control enclosure and the T-coupling be
mounted in a dry area where no damage will occur to the water line heating
system connections. The T-coupling should be located as close as possible to
the pump, but more importantly, in close proximity to the location of the power
control enclosure. It is suggested that the pumping system be located in a
heated area, as the pump and associated downstream piping must also be
protected from freezing.
Another factor in establishing the location for the power control enclosure should
be the requirement to regularly test the GFCI. Also, the possibility of the heating
cable becoming inadvertently unplugged should be considered. The power
control enclosure contains a GFCI, and hence it is not necessary for this control
to be connected to a GFCI protected outlet. However, it is possible to plug the
power control enclosure into a GFCI protected receptacle, if convenient.
It is recommended that the heating cable be the only load on the circuit supplying
electrical power to the cable.
Installing the Heating Cable
1. Check Piping
Before installing the heating cable, ensure that all joints and inside surfaces
of the pipe are free from any sharp edges or other restrictions which would
inhibit pulling the cable through the pipe or which may damage the heating
cable jacket.
2. Prepare Cable
For cables supplied on spools, remove the power control enclosure from the
center of the spool. (You may nd it benecial to mount the spool on some
convenient axle, such as a broom handle, for easier dispensing).
For cables supplied without spools, uncoil and straighten.
3. Lubricate Cable
You will nd installation easiest in straight lengths of piping; piping with
several 90 degree turns will signicantly restrict the threading of the cable
through the piping; a pull force exceeding 30 lbs. could damage the cable.
Similarly, long piping runs exceeding about 100 feet may also require
excessive force to pull the cable; in such situations, it is recommended that
the piping be lled with water as this provides excellent lubrication for pulling
the cable through the pipe. As an alternate, the cable can be lubricated with
petroleum jelly; do not use any other type of lubricant, as this could
damage the cable and/or result in contamination of the water flowing
through the pipe. It is also advantageous to keep the heating cable as
straight and free from twists and kinks as possible.
4. Thread Cable
Thread heating cable through any plumbing ttings, which may be necessary
to connect the T-coupling to the piping. Refer to Figure C.
5. Attach Pull Cord
Attach the heating cable pull cord to a strong cord or electrician’s sh-tape
which has been threaded through the pipe. It is recommended that tape
be applied around the cable end connector and cord to ensure the end
connector does not get snagged on the inside of the pipe. Do not loop
the heating cable back onto itself for pulling purposes, as this could
damage the heating elements inside the cable. Refer to Figure C. Do
not attach the fish tape directly to the cable end connector.
6. Pull Cable
Gently pull (maximum pull force of 30 lbs) the heating cable through the
water pipe. Remove the T-coupling from the spool hub when the cable is
fully uncoiled from the spool. Disconnect the sh-tape or cord.
7. Secure End Connector
Secure the cable end connector to the piping using the stainless steel clip
provided. Refer to Figure D. Insert the clip through the hole in the cable
end connector. Note that the pull cord does not have to be removed from
the heating cable; the cord and shrink sleeve are “food grade” quality and
can be safely left inside the pipe.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE HEAT SHRINK FROM THE CABLE
AS DAMAGE TO THE CABLE MAY RESULT. If desired, the cord can
be cut at either end of the shrink sleeve. Complete associated plumbing
connections.
8. Check Cable
Plug the cable into a 120 VAC outlet to ensure that the cable was not
damaged during installation; the cable should feel warm within one minute
of being energized. Once the cable warmth is detected, unplug the cable
and proceed with installation.
9. Connect T-coupling
Connect the T-coupling to the pipe and complete all plumbing connections,
ensuring that the cable inside the pipe does not touch, cross, or overlap
itself at any point inside the water pipe.
10. Check Cable
It is recommended that the continuity of the cable be tested at this time
to ensure that the cable was not damaged during the completion of the
plumbing connections. Do not plug in the cable in anticipation of sensing
the warming of the piping, as this could take a signicant amount of time
and may not even be noticeable, depending on the weather conditions,
pipe insulation, etc.
Installing the Power Control Enclosure
1. Mount
Mount the power control enclosure in a suitable location as noted in
“Preparation for Installation of Heating Cable” above. Using nylon tie wraps
supplied with the heating cable, attach the thermostat sensor to the pipe.
If this section of pipe is insulated, it is important that the sensor be placed directly on the pipe and then covered by the insulation.
2. Pressurize
The water supply system should then be returned to normal operation and
all pipes completely lled with water. The power control enclosure can then
be plugged into a properly grounded electrical receptacle.
3. Energize
Plug the heating cable into the receptacle on the power control enclosure
and turn the thermostat control knob to the maximum setting.
4. Adjust
If you are certain that the thermostat sensor was located at the coldest
point of the piping, then set the thermostat temperature control knob to the
minimum setpoint. Otherwise, it is advisable to increase the thermostat
setting somewhat above the minimum setpoint.
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