Instruction Manual
Wing Span: 48"
Weight: 22 oz. +/Wing Area: 552 Sq. In.
Wing Loading: 5.8 oz/Sq. ft.
Motor: 200+ Watt Brushless Outrunner (i.e. Hang-It R/C X2217/08)
Radio Gear: 4 Channel minimum, 4 mini servos
Designed by East R/C's Chris Hockaday
Distributed exclusively by East R/C
Thank you for your patronage to East R/C! Your support of our products is tremendously
appreciated. We are a family owned and operated company and are avid R/C modelers,
just like you. By purchasing our products you enable us to produce more products for our
modeling friends across the globe. Thank you!
The SLEDG is designed to be a lightweight 3D foamy, capable of any 3D maneuver in the
book while feeling much lighter on the stick than that of a traditional foamy airplane.
Build time should be around 2 hours and we have included a Landing Gear option, should
you choose to use it. The hardware package is of only the best quality available to us and
we have left no stone unturned. Everything you need, less power plant and radio system,
is included. So, get to building and please, let us know what you think. Your feedback
helps us to better improve upon our products.
Thanks again!
East R/C
Page:
1
Table of Contents
Introduction Page 1 -
•
Table of Contents Page 2 -
•
Kit Contents Page 3 -
•
Required Equipment Page 4 -
•
Required Additional Hardware Page 4 -
•
Recommended Tools and Supplies Page 4 -
•
Painting Foam Page 5 -
•
Assembly Guide Page 6 -
•
Wing Panels
o
Horizontal Fuse Section Page 9 Steps 19-22
o
Fuselage Page 9 Steps 23-38
o
Attaching Wing to Fuselage Page 12 Step 39-42
o
Beveling & Hinging the Control Surfaces Page 13 Steps 43-49
o
Installing the Firewall Page 15 Steps 50-55
o
Installing the Control Horns Page 16 Steps 56-62
o
Making & Installing Rudder & Elevator Pushrods Page 17 Steps 63-67
o
Servo Installation Page 18 Steps 68-72
o
Landing Gear Installation Page 19 Steps 73-83
o
Carbon Fiber Trussing Reinforcements Page 21 Steps 84-85
o
Mounting the Motor Page 21 Steps 86-87
o
CG Page 22 Step 88
o
Radio & Throw info Page 22 Step 88
o
User Notes Page 22 -
•
Page 6 Steps 1-18
Page:
2
3
2
8
7
1
4
Kit Contents:
1. Horizontal Fuse Section
2. Horizontal Stabilizer
3. Top Fuse Section
4. Bottom Fuse Section
5. Left & Right Wing Panels
6. Left & Right Ailerons
7. Elevator
8. Rudder
6
6
5
Hardware Included:
1 Carbon Fiber Strip Leading Edge (39.5")
1 Carbon Fiber Strip Leading Edge Scab Piece (8.5")
2 Carbon Fiber Strip Trailing Edge Pieces (24.25")
1 Carbon Fiber Rod Spar (40")
3 Carbon Fiber Rod Truss Reinforcements (40")
2 Carbon Fiber Tubes (Rud/Elev Pushrod Mid Sections)
2 Straight Linkage Wires (Rud/Elev)
4 "L" Bend Linkage Wires (Ail/Rud/Elev)
4 "L" Bend Clips/Keepers
4 EZ Connectors (Servo Side Linkage Wire Keepers)
4 Razor Control Horns
2 Wheels
1 Tail Skid
2 Wheel Collars
2 Pieces of Landing Gear Wire (un-bent)
2 Carbon Fiber Square Tube Landing Gear Blocks
2 Light Ply Landing Gear Side Plates
2 Landing Gear Side Plate Support Pegs
1 Landing Gear Retainer Band
1 Light Ply Firewall
1 6" Strip of Hook & Loop for RX/Batt/ESC placement
1 Roll of 3M Blenderm for Surface Hinging
5
Page:
3
Required Equipment (not included):
Motor:
•
Hang-It R/C X2217/08, Hang-It R/C X20 Amp ESC, PolyQuest 1500mah 3s
o
APC 11x4.7 Slow Flyer Prop
o
Radio:
•
4-channel TX/RX recommended.
o
Four (4) servos:
o
§
Four (4) mini servos for surfaces (i.e. Hitec HS-82MG's)
§
HS-65 Can be used, but they can be stripped in hard maneuvers
Recommended Tools and Supplies (not included):
5 minute epoxy or Hot Glue for Firewall
•
Foam Safe Super Glue (CA..i.e. Mercury M100F)
•
Foam Safe Activator (i.e. Mercury MMH16)
•
Hobby Knife
•
Extra NEW #11 Blades
•
Pen Vise w/ Drill Bits
•
Straight Edge
•
Miscellaneous Screw Drivers and metric allen keys/hex drivers
•
Foam Safe Spray Paint (Optional)
•
•
3/16" Drill Bit and drill
Page:
4
Painting Foam:
If you want to paint your SLEDG, it is usually best to dress it up before assembly of the
kit. Be mindful of the paint you intend to use. Most spray paints are not foam safe and if
you use the wrong paints, your foam will transform from a solid to a liquid in relatively
short period of time. There are several paints available that are foam safe. Here are a few:
1. Testors Model Car Spray Paint
2. Tamiya Model Car Spray Paint
3. Krylon Short Cuts
4. Foam Spray Paint from your local arts & crafts store
5. Most airbrushed acrylics
You can create masks from thin posterboard and other materials that will allow you to
create cool effects. If you are interested in learning more about techniques for painting
foam airplanes, go to this thread at FlyingGiants.com:
http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/fg6/25009-awesome-foamy-schemes.html
Page:
5
1. Lightly sand all of the foam parts edges
p
before assembly.
2. Locate the left & right wing panels and
p
use a piece of wax paper underneath to
catch any excess glue.
p
4. Pull them together, aligning the the
pre-cut wing spar groove, and spray with
foam safe accelerator.
5. Locate and test fit the Carbon Fiber
p
Wing
Spar into the wing.
3. Apply a bead of foam safe glue down the
p
mating side of the wing panels.
p
Page: 6
6. Run a bead of foam safe glue down the
length of the groove press in the spar & spray
with foam safe accelerator.
7. Spar installed.
p
8. If you don't have someone to help you,
use 2 weighted objects to hold the wing
p
while installing the leading and trailing edge
carbon fiber strips.
10. Mark a line on the leading edge at 8.5"
p
and glue from that point down to the
opposite wingtip.
11. Place the carbon fiber strip on the
p
leading edge, starting at the mark,
running the length to the opposite wing
tip, then spray with accelerator.
p
9. Locate the full length carbon fiber strip
and prepare to apply it to the leading edge.
p
12. If the scab piece is too long, mark it
with a pencil as shown.
Page: 7
13. If you do not have a pencil, you can
p
score a mark with your hobby knife.
14. Cut the trip to your marked length
p
with a back and forth, sawing motion. Glue
The piece to the remainder of the leading
edge.
16. Flip the wing over, leading edge down, &
p
Glue the trailing edge strips on..
17. Trim tips if necessary to remove any
p
over hang.
15. Leading Edge Complete:
p
Page: 8
p
18. Trailing Edge Complete:
19. Prepare the Horizontal Stab &
p
Horizontal fuse sections for gluing.
20. Check the fit to make sure the stab is
p
not upside down before gluing.
22. Hold the pieces firmly together and spray
p
with accelerator.
23. Slide the bottom fuse section onto the
p
horizontal fuse section, starting at the nose.
21. Run a bead of foam safe glue onto
p
each surface.
p
Page: 9
24. Make sure the firewall area is
aligned properly.
25. Press the keys into the horizontal fuse
p
section carefully.
26. Make sure not to get glue into the empty
p
key slots.
28. Spray with accelerator
p
29. Your fuse should now look like this:
p
27. Run a bead of glue the length of the
p
mating pieces on both sides.
p
Page: 10
30. Test fit the top fuse section, but do not
glue.
31. If needed, mark a line where these
p
2 pieces meet.
32. Remove the top fuse section.
p
34. The top fuse section trimmed and ready
p
to re-install.
35. Check that these meet up well.
p
33. Trim the part with your hobby knife.
p
Using fresh blades every few cuts will
ensure that there are no tears in the foam.
p
Page: 11
36. Leave this slot open. You will have to pass
the elevator through this slot later.
37. Glue the top fuse section to the
p
rest of the fuse.
p
38. The fuse main section is complete:
40. Align the wing to the horizontal stab
p
with a string or tape measure. Position
the wing so that the measurement is the
same on both sides.
p
41. Glue the wing to the fuselage.
39. Slide the wing through the wing slot
p
on the fuselage. Trim the slot with your
hobby knife if needed. Don't force it.
p
Page: 12
42. Your SLEDG should look like this:
43. Locate the rudder, elevator & ailerons
p
for hinging.
44. Measure in 1/8" and mark at both ends
p
of the hinge line.
Cut at an angle, using the straight edge as a
guide, not quite cutting through to the other
p
side.
p
45. On a smooth surface and using a
a straight edge, draw a line from mark
to mark.
p
Page: 13
46. Completed bevel:
47. Repeat the process for the elevator &
p
ailerons.
48. Use a flat surface for the hinging of the
p
ailerons and a weight to hold the airplane
steady. Maintain a gap of 1/6"-3/32"
between surface and airplane.
p
Page: 14
49. Note the gap. Fold surface over and hinge
the opposite side, as well with the included
Blenderm.
50. Sand the edges & surface of the firewall.
p
51. You can use 5 Minute Epoxy or Hot
p
Glue for the firewall. I will show the
Epoxy method here.
53. Mix the epoxy with a piece of scrap balsa
p
or foam and apply in a "Cross" pattern, like
shown:
54. Install on the airplane.
p
p
52. Dispense equal parts of hardener &
resin on a piece of something disposable.
p
Page: 15
55. Apply a bit of epoxy behind the firewall,
as well.
56. Locate the control horns.
p
57. Carefully push the horns pegs through
p
the surface. Keep the leading edge of the
horns base aligned to the trailing edge of
the surfaces bevel.
59. Add a bit of glue to each side and
p
press on the retainer clip.
60. Note the horns location, compared to
p
the travel of the elevator.
p
58. Clean out any foam that may be pushed
out of the holes.
p
Page: 16
61. Horn placement is best in an area that
will prevent horns and linkages from
interfering with the travel of the surface.
p
62. Repeat for the remainder of the
surfaces.
64. Roughen the wire with sand paper and
p
glue one end into the carbon tube as shown.
Wrapping the glue joint with thread and
glue can add strength to the joint.
63. Locate 2 "L" bend linkages, the 2
p
straight wire linkages & the 2 carbon fiber
tube pushrod mid sections.
p
65. Depending on where you cut in your
elev. & rud. servos, you may have to trim
the carbon fiber tube down a bit in length.
66. 2 completed tail section pushrods:
p
Page: 17
67. Attach the "L" bend side to the control
p
horns and push on the retainer clips.
70. Check the fit of the servos. Once satisfied
p
with the fit, glue them in place.
p
68. Using the linkage as a guide and your
servo as a template, mark for the servo
locations for both rudder & elevator.
p
69. Using a fresh #11 blade, cut the slots
out with your hobby knife.
Connect the pushrods to the servo arms with
the included EZ connectors.
71. Mark the ailerons servo locations, using
p
the 2 remaining "L" bend linkages and your
servo as a guide.
Page: 18
72. Connect the linkage at the horn
p
with the clear plastic keepers and at the
servo arm with the EZ connectors.
74. Check to make sure your batter will
p
clear the plates.
73. OPTIONAL: Locate the landing gear
p
side plates and glue one to each side of the
bottom fuse section with the center lined
up with the leading edge of the wing.
p
Page: 19
75. For the side plate pegs, you will need a
3/6" drill bit.
76. Drill holes as shown:
p
79. Cut a small hole in the bottom of the fuse
p
slightly ahead of the wings leading edge.
77. Insert the pegs and glue in to place
p
with
foam safe glue.
78. Equal amount of peg exposed on each
p
side:
80. Glue the 2 carbon square tube against
p
the leading edge of the wing as shown. You
will use the shape of the fuse to make your
bends in the landing gear wire. Each landing
gear wire gear leg will run through the
square tube on the opposite side of the wheel,
passing through the hole in the fuselage.
Page: 20
81. Bend the gear out where it meets the
p
bottom of the fuse.
82. Lean the gear against the forward pegs
p
& wrap the rubber band around the pegs
for tension.
84. With the carbon fiber trussing
p
reinforcements, cut a piece for each wing
panel that begins at the leading edge side
of the fuse and attaches near the trailing
edge of each wing tip as shown.
p
83. Install the wheels with wheel collars
and the landing gear is complete.
85. Reinforce the tail section on each side
p
with the remaining carbon fiber trussing as
shown.
p
86. With the motors mounting plate as a
guide mark all holes necessary for mounting
your chosen motor to the firewall.
Page: 21
87. If motor shaft clearance is required,
p
drill out to accommodate & mount the
motor, ESC & receiver.
p
88. The SLEDG is ready for flight! The CG
is best at 4" back from the leading edge for
the first flights and then you can move it
back or forward, depending on your flying
style. We like 50% expo on high rates for 3D
flying & 30% on low. It needs very little
throw for normal flying, but the more you
can get for 3D, the better!
NOTES:
_______________________________
Page: 22
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