Duerkopp Adler 589 Operating Instruction

589

Automatic double-chainstitch buttonholer

Operating instructions

Installation instructions

Service instructions

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2

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Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld  PotsdamerStraße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld
Telefon + 49 (0)521/ 9 25-00  Telefax + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35  www.duerkopp-adler.com

Anleitung, komplett / Manual, complete

589

Übersicht Summary

Bedienanleitung
Aufstellanleitung
Serviceanleitung

Bauschaltplan
9870 579020 B

Operating instructions
Installation instructions
Service instructions

Interconnection-diagram
9870 579020 B

Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Sprache: Deutsch / Englisch
Telefon +49 (0) 521 / 9 25-00 • Telefax +49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 • www.duerkopp-adler.com

Ausgabe / Edition: 07/2003 Printed in Federal Republic of Germany Teile-Nr.:/Part-No.: 0791 589001

Foreword

This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar
with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in
accordance with the recommendations.

The instruction manual contains important information on how to
operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation
of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and
down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.

The instruction manual is intended to complement existing national
accident prevention and environment protection regulations.

The instruction manual must always be available at the machine/sewing
unit.

The instruction manual must be read and applied by any person that is
authorized to work on the machine/sewing unit. This means:

– Operation, including equipping, troubleshooting during the work

cycle, removing of fabric waste,

– Service (maintenance, inspection, repair) and/or
– Transport.

The user also has to assure that only authorized personnel work on the
machine.

The user is obliged to check the machine at least once per shift for
apparent damages and to immediatly report any changes (including the
performance in service), which impair the safety.

The user company must ensure that the machine is only operated in
perfect working order.

Never remove or disable any safety devices.

If safety devices need to be removed for equipping, repairing or
maintaining, the safety devices must be remounted directly after
completion of the maintenance and repair work.

Unauthorized modification of the machine rules out liability of the
manufacturer for damage resulting from this.

Observe all safety and danger recommendations on the machine/unit!
The yellow-and-black striped surfaces designate permanend danger
areas, eg danger of squashing, cutting, shearing or collision.

Besides the recommendations in this instruction manual also observe
the general safety and accident prevention regulations!

General safety instructions

The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause
bodily injuries or damages to the machine.

1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the

2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and

3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of

4. When gauge parts are exchanged (e.g. needle, presser foot, needle

5. Daily servicing work must be carried out only by appropriately

instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training.

instructions of the motor supplier.

the machine without the safety devices is not permitted. Observe all
the relevant safety regulations.

plate, feed dog and bobbin) when threading, when the workplace is
left, and during service work, the machine must be disconnected
from the mains by switching off the master switch or disconnecting
the mains plug.

trained persons.

6. Repairs, conversion and special maintenance work must only be
carried out by technicians or persons with appropriate training.

7. For service or repair work on pneumatic systems, disconnect the
machine from the compressed air supply system (max. 7-10 bar).
Before disconnecting, reduce the pressure of the maintenance unit.
Exceptions to this are only adjustments and functions checks made
by appropriately trained technicians.

8. Work on the electrical equipment must be carried out only by
electricians or appropriately trained persons.

9. Work on parts and systems under electric current is not permitted,
except as specified in regulations DIN VDE 0105.

10. Conversion or changes to the machine must be authorized by us

and made only in adherence to all safety regulations.

11. For repairs, only replacement parts approved by us must be used.

12. Commissioning of the sewing head is prohibited until such time as

the entire sewing unit is found to comply with EC directives.

13. The line cord should be equipped with a country-specific mains

plug. This work must be carried out by appropriately trained
technicians (see paragraph 8).

It is absolutely necessary to respect the safety

instructions marked by these signs.

Danger of bodily injuries !

Please note also the general safety instructions.

Contents page:

Preface and general safety instructions

Part 1: Operating Instructions Class 589

1. Product description

1.1 Designated use...................................................5

1.2 Briefdescription..................................................5

1.3 Subclasses.....................................................7

1.4 Product structure..................................................8

2. Technical data ..................................................9

3. Operation

3.1 Needles, yarns and gimps ...........................................10

3.2 Removingandreplacingtheclampplates..................................11

3.3 Changing the needle...............................................12

3.4 Threading the upper thread ...........................................13

3.5 Threading the bobbin thread ..........................................14

3.6 Threading the gimp thread (only 589-221000) ...............................15

4. Thread tensions

4.1 Needle- and bobbin-thread tension ......................................16

4.2 Bobbin-thread-tensioning spring ........................................17

5. Changing the cutting blocks .........................................18

6. Spreading the w orkpiece ...........................................19

7. Hand switches ..................................................19

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8. Switching on - Switching off - Safe Stop

8.1 Switchingon....................................................20

8.2 Switchingoff....................................................20

8.3 SafeStop .....................................................20

8.4 Switching threading mode on and off .....................................21

9. Controller

9.1 General.......................................................21

9.2 Operatingthecontroller.............................................22

9.3 Changing parameter values ..........................................23

9.3.1 Numericalvalues.................................................23

Contents page:

9.3.2 Selectingaparameter..............................................23

9.4 Sewingprocess..................................................24

9.4.1 Switchingon....................................................24

9.4.2 Sequence mode and single-button mode ..................................24

9.4.2.1Selecting a sequence (sequence mode) ...................................24

9.4.2.2Selecting a buttonhole (single-button mode) ................................24

9.4.3 Changing buttonhole parameters .......................................25

9.4.4 Automatic or manual operation (can only be set in sequence mode) ..................25

9.5 Sewing.......................................................26

9.5.1 Fastswitch-off ..................................................26

9.6 Changing a buttonhole program ........................................28

9.7 Buttonhole s equence ..............................................31

9.7.1 Selecting a buttonhole sequence .......................................31

9.7.2 Changing the buttonhole sequence ......................................31

9.8 Piece counter ...................................................32

9.9 Buttonhole and sequence programming: a brief description ......................33

9.9.1 Selecting a buttonhole number .........................................33

9.9.2 Enteringparameters...............................................33

9.10 Setting buttonhole sequences: a brief description .............................34

9.10.1 Selecting a buttonhole sequence .......................................34

9.10.2 Changing a sequence ..............................................34

10. Error messages

10.1 Pressuremonitor.................................................35

10.2 SafeStop .....................................................35

10.3 Error messages..................................................35

10.4 Needle not in starting position .........................................35

10.5 Handwheel turned manually ..........................................35

10.6 Sewing-startsidenotcorrect..........................................35

11. Maintenance

11.1 cleaning ......................................................36

11.2 Lubrication.....................................................37

1. Product description

1.1 Designated use

The DÜRKOPP ADLER 589 is an automatic sewing machine designed
for sewing buttonholes in light to medium-heavy material.

Such material, which is generally made of textile or synthetic fibres, is
used in the clothing industry. This sewing machine can also be used to
produce so-called technical seams. In this case, however, the operator
must assess the possible dangers which may arise (with which
DÜRKOPP ADLER would be happy to assist), since such applications
are on the one hand relatively unusual and, on the other, they are so
varied that no single set of criteria can cover them all. The outcome of
this assessment may require appropriate safety measures to be taken.
Generally only dry material may be sewn with this machine. The
material may be no thicker than 8mmwhen compressed by the
lowered upper material clamps.

The material may not contain any hard objects. The machine may only
be operated with finger and eye protection. The seam is generally
produced with sewing threads of gauge up to 80/2 Nm (synthetic
threads with or without cotton covering). Before using any other thread
the possible dangers arising must be assessed and appropriate safety
measures taken if necessary. This machine may be set up and
operated only in dry, well-maintained premises. If it is used in other
premises which are not dry and well-maintained it may be necessary to
take further precautions (which should be agreed in advance - see EN
60204-31: 1999). As manufacturers of industrial sewing machines we
proceed on the assumption that personnel who work on our products
will have received training at least sufficient to acquaint them with all
normal operations and with any hazards which these may involve.

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1.2 Brief description

Depending on the subclass, the DÜRKOPP ADLER 589 is a
double-chainstitch buttonhole machine with CNC step motor for fabric
feed and rotating sewing mechanism.

As a buttonhole machine it works with two chainstitch loopers, the left
one carrying the thread, sewing buttonholes with or without an eye,
with taper, round or cross tacks.

The various subclasses of the 589 are fitted with different
thread-trimming systems.

Technical features

The machine is driven by a positioning drive built into the machine arm.
The movements of the X, Y and Z axles are driven by a step motor.

These drives are controlled by a DAC 2 electronic controller in
conjunction with various pneumatic machine functions.

The BF 2A operating panel is mounted in a visible location on the
machine arm and is thus easily accessible to the operator. This
drive-and-controller system has the following advantages:

–

Variable sewing speed depending on parameters such as the upper
thread, bobbin thread, material, seam width) up to a maximum of
2200 stitches/min.

–

Very quiet operation because there is no mechanical connection
and disconnection.
Additional noise reduction from the new needle-bar and looper
drive.

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–

The use of step motors confers great versatility. No use of control
cams.

–

One-pedal operation for the following functions:

- close/open clamps

- switching on the sewing process

- rapid halt with needle lift

–

Pneumatically-operated thread-trimming system with short drive
distances for precise operation.

–

Pneumatic buttonhole slit.

–

Central oil-wick lubrication from two oil reservoirs.

–

Flexible cutting (two lengths preset, with/without eye).

–

Seam-width alteration in the cross tack.

–

The special design of the machine arm permits the use of a
different material holder (optional extra) enabling the material to be
placed lengthwise.

–

Smooth design with casing. A gas-pressure spring helps to swing
the machine up and ensures that the head does not swing down
too quickly.

–

Vertically-operating cutting-block holders mean that no finishing-off
work is necessary even with different cutting-block heights.

–

After the material has been released a display setting enables the
cloth carrier plate to move to the starting position for the next
buttonhole, which improves visibility for material positioning.

Controller

–

A counter, shown in the display, counts the number of buttonholes
sewn.

–

A number of parameters can be set on the BF 2A operating panel,
depending on the subclass and buttonhole shape. These include
the following:

- with or without eye

- speed max. 2200 rpm

- buttonhole length, various ranges depending on the subclass

- cut before or after sewing

- no cutting

- stitch count in the eye

- stitch distance

- taper tack overlap

- taper tack length

- overlap in the round tack

- number of stitches in the round tack

- stitch distance in the cross tack

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1.3 Subclasses

589-212000 With short trimmer for the upper and bobbin threads.

The bobbin-thread trimmer is located in the throat plate,
enabling the thread to be severed very close to the
material. Flexible cutting (two lengths preset,
with/without eye). For taper, round and cross tacks.
Can also be used for double-chainstitch eyelets in
conjunction with appropriate sewing apparatus.
Fitted as standard with an electropneumatic upper
thread catcher.
No lower gimp.

589-221000 With short trimmer for the upper thread and long

trimmer (thread length ca. 30 mm) for bobbin thread
and gimp. Cutting before or after sewing, not cutting,
flexible cutting (two lengths preset, with/without eye),
with or without taper, round or cross tack.
The bobbin thread and gimp can thus be either
pulled tight or passed through to sew a lockstitch
tack afterwards.
After the cross tack has been sewn they are
short-trimmed by hand.
For cut lengths up to 38 mm: fitted as standard with
electropneumatic thread catcher and gimp guide. This
grasps the upper thread as soon as it is severed, holds
it clamped and inserts it into the right side to sew the
next buttonhole. This means:

- a secure seam start, even in light, loose weaves

- tight starting stitches

- a clean buttonhole underside, hence no need for
trimming.

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1.4 Product structure

Subclasses

Equipment Material number

sewing automat 0589 990002 X
sewing automat 0589 990004 X
accessory kit 0791 579501 X X

Optional extras:

lengthways positioning kit 0579 590074 O O
upper thread catcher 0579 590564 X O
pneumatic connection pack 0797 003031 O O
halogen tripod sewing lamp 9822 510000 O O
table clamp for halogen tripod sewing lamp 9822 510011 O O
key 9880 579001 O O
gimp-thread advancing device 0579 590334 O O

589-212000

589-221000

Positioning aids

buttonhole-to-buttonhole distance stop 0579 590344 O O
buttonhole-to-edge distance stop 0579 590104 O O

Stands

MG58-13 MG58 400084 X* X*
stand with attachment fittings and table
plate 1060x750 inc. maintenance unit and rollers

MG58-13 MG58 400094 X* X*
stand with attachment fittings and table plate 620x750
inc. maintenance unit and rollers

support table for working standing up 0579 590134 O O
(inc. k ey 9880 579001)

holder for hind-trouser facings 0579 590654 O O
(pocket pouch open) inc. stop
right and left for pocket opening

laser mark lamp inc. power pack 0579 590674 O O

X = Standardequipment
O = Optional extras
* = Narrow or wide stand supplied at purchaser ’s option

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2. Technical data

Head: class 589
Stitc h type: double chainstitch
Number of needles: 1
Needle system: 579
Needle thickness: max. Nm 125

(depending on the subclass)

Upper-thread thickness: max. Nm 50
Bobbin-thread thickness: max. Nm 30
Max. Speed: 2200 rpm
Stitch distance: 0.5-2mm
Max. sew ing length: 32 mm (subclass 589-212000)

(depending on 32 mm (subclass 589-221000)
sewing apparatus)

Max. cut length: 32 mm (subclass 589-212000)
(depending on 32 mm (subclass 589-221000)
sewing apparatus)

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Operating pressure: 6 bar ± 0.5 bar
Air consumption: approx. 5 NL per working cycle

Rated power: 1.4 kVA
Rated voltage: 1 x 190-240 V, 50/60 Hz

on delivery: 1 x 230 V, 50-60 Hz

Dimensions: 1060 x 750 x 1030 mm (L x W x H)

Working height: 750...895 mm (upper edge of table plate)
Weight: approx. 170 kg

Rated noise value: Lc = 79 dB (A)

Workplace-related emission value in accordance with
DIN 45635-48-B-1

(sewing cycle 6s ON and 1s OFF)
Stitch length: 1.2 mm

Speed: 2200 rpm
Material: double denim 509g/m²

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3. Operation

3.1 Needles, yarns and gimps

Needles

Needle system: 579
Needle thicknesses: Nm 90-125

The needle thickness to be used for each machine and its s ewing
apparatus (E no.) is given on the nameplate.

Yarns

The appearance of the buttonhole is greatly affected by the yarn used.
Synthetic-fibre yarns or even silk yarn can be used as the needle and

bobbin threads.
The appearance of the buttonhole is greatly affected by

–
–

Gimps

The gimp s tabilises the buttonhole and at the same time gives it a
plastic shape.

It should have the following characteristics:

–
–

depending on the type of thread and material and the
sewing apparatus (E no.).

theyarnused
the use of different thicknesses for the needle and bobbin threads.

not too thick, but supple and strong
constant diameter.

The recommended yarns in the following table are only guidelines.
Other yarns and yarn thicknesses may be required, depending on the
sewing apparatus (E no.) and the material.

Subclass upper thread type bobbin thread type lower gimp thread type

and thickness and thickness and thickness

589-212000 polyester-fibre yarn, polyester-fibre yarn not required

schappe schappe

70/3 70/3
80/2 80/2

589-221000

poly-poly 80/2 poly-poly 80/2 poly-schappe 15/3

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