Duerkopp Adler 558 Operating Instructions Manual

Contents Page:

Preface and General Safety Notes

Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 558

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Des cript ion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.2 Sub-classes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1.3 Tech nic al Spec ifi cat ion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1.4 Sewing Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E... /... . . . 9

1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteris tics 558 E ... / ... . . . 11

1.5 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2. Operation

2.1 Removal and Placement of the Clam p Plate s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

2.2 Tur nin g On - Quick Stop - Restar t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

2.3 End Position o f th e Sewing Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

2.4 Needles, Threads and Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

2.6 Threading the Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

2.8 Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

2.9 Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

2.10 Blocking the C lamp Li ft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

2.11 Buttonhole Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

2.12 Cutti ng Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

2.13 Cutti ng Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

2.14 Cutti ng Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

2.15 Spreading of the Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

2.16 Stitch Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

2.17 Seam Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

2.18 Bu ttonhole For m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

2.19 Changeover to Cutting Before or After Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

3. Maintenance

3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

3.2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

3.3 Oilin g Positions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

4. Malfunction Remedies

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

5. Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper Thread Catcher

. . . . . 79

5.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

5.2 Electrical Conn ec tion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

5.3 Function Sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

5. 4 Turn-on Interlocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

5.5 Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5.1 Lift o f the Elect romagnet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5.2 Base Position of the Upper Thread Catcher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5.3 Lowering Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

5.5.4 Gripping Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

5. 5.5 Switch es for the Upper Thread Catche r Contr ols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

5.6 Atta ch ment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

5.6.2 Laying the Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

5. 6.3 Control Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

5. 6.4 Mou nting Switch b3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

5. 6.5 Mou nting the Switching Rai l for Switch b2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

5.6.5 Mounting the Upper Thread Catcher on the Machine Arm . . . . . . . . . 104

The illustrations used in these instructions are of differing sub-classes of the
buttonhole machine 558 !

Please note that your buttonhole may deviate from the illustrations !

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Description and Proper Use

The

DÜRKOPP ADLER 558

Buttonholes with or without eye and with or without taper bar can be sewn.

The buttonhole form is determined by 2 exchangeable disc cams with

•

corresponding knives. The upper disc cam determines the form of the eye. The disc
cam lying thereunder determines for buttonholes with taper bar the taper bar form
and the buttonhole length.

The smalles t and larges t buttonhole width for each sewing device (E no.) is

•

established by th e position of t he limit plate.
Pendulum swing of the needle bar from the rest position one-sided to the right

•

when sewing the right and one-sided to the left when sewing the left buttonhole
seam.

Automatic adaption of the upper cloth clamp pressure to differing material

•

thicknesses through spring-han gered clamp frame.
The safety devices do not have to be removed when tilting up the mach i ne.

•

The combin ed finger-eye protection device increases safety.

•

It is held in the work position by springs.
The gas pressure spring aids tilting up and effects a sure, slow lowering. The stop

•

position makes an unhindered threading of the hook thread possible.

is a double chain stitch butt onhole machi ne.

The machine is equipped with a central oil wick lubrication from 2 oil reservoirs

•

(the posi tions marked in red must a l so be oiled) .

In the next chapter the individual sub-classes are described.

5

1.2 Sub-classes

558 - 211241

With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut so short
that no t hread ends are visible. Cleaning is unne cessary.

Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing.
Cutting length 20 mm

558 - 221301

With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread is cut off short. The underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom
are cut off long (about 30 mm).

Cutting open the buttonhole depending on E no. before or after sewing, as desired.
This sub-class has the electromagnetic upper thread catcher as standard equipment.
Cutting length 10...38 mm

558 - 231391

With automatic trimmer.
Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the
sewing position or, with buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The
underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.

With this sub-class the sewing piece i s positioned 12 mm further forward than with

-221301 and -251301.
Cutting open of the buttonhole, depending on the E no., as desired, before or after

sewing.
Cutting length 10...38 mm

558 - 241291

The sewing piece is positioned 9.5 mm further forward than with sub-classes -221301
and - 251301. This means a better view and more freedom when positioning the sewing
pieces.

With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are trimmed so
short that no t hread ends are visible. No cleaning is ne cessary.

Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing.
Cutting length dependent on the length package 14...32 mm

558 - 251301

With automatic trimmer.
Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the
sewing position or, with the buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The
underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.

Cutting open the buttonhole can be switched between cutting before or after sewing.
Cutting length 10...50 mm

6

1.3 T ech nical Specification

Number of stitches: 1.650 Stitches/min
Type of stitch: Double chain stitch
Sewing length: max. 50 mm
Cutting length: max. 50 mm
Needle system: 558
Needle thickness: Nm 90...110

Depending on the type of sewing thread and the material.

Looping stroke: 2.7...3.2 mm

Depending on the sewing devic e (E no.).

Material thicknesses: max. 10 mm with sub-class -221301

max. 12 mm with all othersub-classes

Sewing thread t hickness: Upper thread max. Nm 50

Underthread max. Nm 30

Nominal voltage: - 2410591 3 ~ 400 V + N, 50/60 Hz

- 2410575 3 ~ 230 V, 50/60 Hz

- 2410540 1 ~ 230 V, 50 Hz

- 2410478 1 ~ 230 V, 60 Hz
The machine is delivered with one of the list ed drive

packages appropriate to the nominal voltage.

Noise: Lc = 80 dB (A)

by sewing cycle 5.0 s on and 1.4 s off
to DIN 45635-48-B-1

Dimensions: (H x W x D) 1570 x 630 x 520 mm (Stand ard)

1570 x 1060 x 520 mm (Wide model)

Weight: 128 kg (complete with mach i n e head,

frame and motor)

55 kg (only frame and motor)

Work height: 760...1060 mm (Top edge of table)

7

1.4 Sewing De vices

The devices parts for the different buttonh ol e forms and cutting lengths are established
under device numbers (E no.’s).
After the E no. behind a slash the cutting length or the setting range in mm is given.

Example:

For sewing the various buttonhole lengths different cutting blocks, cloth cla m ps and disc
cams are required. The appropriate order numbers can be found in the device she et for
the

The device summary table on the following page lists the currently available devices.
The most suitable device for a specific buttonhole form and a certain type of material
can be chosen quickly fro m the table.

ATTENTION :

For the
For the

There are t wo different group s o f buttonhole mac hi nes:

558

.

after July 1994 the device numbers for the 578 apply ( Chapter 1.4.1 ).

558

up to June 1994 the device numbers for the 558 a pply ( Chapt er 1.4.2 ).

558

578 E2 107 / 20 or 578 E209 / 10 - 38
558 E209 / 10 - 38

Only cutting
Cutting

For conversion of the buttonhole machine to a furt her buttonhole form or cutting length
the following po i nts are to be considered:

1. Only those parts are to be ordered and attached whose order numbers do not a gree

2. The cutting lengths can only be selected appropriate to the device or the setting

3. By m a chines which are switched over to cutting before or af ter sewing, the

4. The setting values, buttonhole width and looping stroke, are interdependent and must

before or after

with those of the device available.
See the device sheets for the 558 and the 578.

range.
By devices which have only one digit behind the slash the cutting length is not
adjustable.

appropriate sections of these instructions are to be observed.

be observed when ch anging to an other device (E no.).
If values deviatin g f rom the table arise, the ada pt i on is to be ma de by a specialist as
per the Service Instructions.

after

sewing.

sewing as desired.

8

mm mm mm mm

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

before after min. max.

20 Under th., Gimp

Buttonhole form

Gimp long

1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E . . . / . . .

558 Material

- 211241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E2107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

10 - 38

* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.

Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,

High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38

Loose, coarse weave cloth

Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

quality in outerwear 18 + 24

Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2

(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34

Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2

Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20

Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7

(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38

- 221301

- 231391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34

9

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

mm mm mm mm

before after min. max.

L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp

Buttonhole form

Loose, coarse weave cloth E2407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

L1 - L3

Buttonholes in elastic material

(e.g. knitware)

Waistbands on jeans and similar E2417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

Loose, coarse weave cloth, E2431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

plastic stitch formation L1 - L4

thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50

558 Nähgut

10

- 241291

- 251301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7

mm mm mm mm

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

before after min. max.

20 Under th., Gimp

Buttonhole form

Gimp long

1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 558 E . . . / . . .

558 Material

- 11241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

10 - 38

* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.

Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,

High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38

Loose, coarse weave cloth

Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

quality in outerwear 18 + 24

Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2

(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34

Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2

Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20

Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7

(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38

- 21301

- 31391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34

11

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

mm mm mm mm

before after min. max.

L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp

Buttonhole form

Loose, coarse weave cloth E407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

L1 - L3

Buttonholes in elastic material

(e.g. knitware)

Waistbands on jeans and similar E417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

Loose, coarse weave cloth, E431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

plastic stitch formation L1 - L4

thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50

558 Nähgut

12

- 41291

- 51301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7

1.5 Optional Equipment

558 - 10012 Electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher

The electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher immediately after the thread
trimming procedure grips the upper thread. It holds this clamped and inserts it in the
right seam during sewing of the next buttonhole.

This means:

Secure seam beginning even with l i ght, loose c l oth.

•

Beginning stitches pu l led tight.

•

Neating the underside of the buttonhol e is unnecessa ry becaus e the beginni ng

•

th read is sewn over.

The sub-class 558 - 2213 01 has the upper thread catcher as st andard equipment. It is
available on request for all other sub-classes.

558 1501 Thread oi l er

For improving thread glide in extremely thickness material.

557 1103 Gimps roller holder on the table top

For lower Gimps which are stiff and hard to bend.

558 3001 Thread unreeler, complete

For holding thread or wool cones. The attachment is to the middle traverse of the table
frame.

558 1731 Stop for buttonhole interval from 70 - 330 mm

App. 1062 Halogen sewing light
App. 1541 Mounting kit
798 500088 Sewing light transformer

Stops for the clearance between material edge and buttonhole are available in different
lengths on request.

13

1

4

2

3

7

2

2

5

6

7

2

8

9

10

14

8

9

10

2. Operation

2.1 Removal and Placement of the Clamp Plates

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Remove or place the clamp plates only with the machine
turned off.

The removal or placement of the clamp plates 3 and 5 occurs in the machine e nd
position (see Chapter 2.3).

The clamp operating lever 1 must be open !

This is the case when it is pushed to the back until it hits.

ATTENTION !

In order to avoid damage to the needle the combined
finger-eye protection 4 must remain swung down.

Sub-class -231391 and -251301:

Removing the clamp plates

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 2 away to the side.

–

Reach unde r each nail sl i t 6 and lift the clamp pl ate.

–

Remove the clamp plates to the front.

Placing the clamp plates

–

The clamp operators 8 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.

–

Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 7 and plate
edges 9.

–

Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 10 on the material support plate.

–

Swing the clamp plates holder 2 back over the clamp plates.
The clamp plates are secured against lifting.

–

Check by closing the clamp operating lever 1 if the clamps open and close correctly.

15

1

2

-221301

1

3

1

-211241 und -241291

1

2

3

16

Sub-classes -211241, -221301 and -241291:

Removing the clamp plates

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 1 away to the side.

–

Pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and remove the right
clamp plate.

–

Reach unde r the nail sli t 2 and remove th e l eft clamp p l ate.

Placing the clamp plates

–

Place first the left, then the right clamp plate.

–

The clamp operators 5 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.

–

Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 4 and plate
edges 6.

–

Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 7 on the the material support plate.
Hereby pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and let catch in
groove 8.

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 1 over the clamp plates again.
The clamp plates are secured against lifting.

–

Check by closing the clamp ope rating lever if the clamps open an d close correctly.

4

1

5

6

7

4

1

5

6

7

8

17

1

2

18

2.2 Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart

Caution Risk of Injury !

Do not reac h i nto the area of moving machine parts,
particularly not under t he knife and the cloth clamps.

Turning on

Turn on the drive motor with the hand shift lever 1.

–

Loosen the hand shift lever 1 out of its catch by
bring into position
The catch prevents an unwanted turning on of t he drive moto r.

Turning off

Turn off the drive motor,

–

Place the hand shift lever 1 in position
The hand shift lever catches in this position.

–

Step forward on pedal 2.

.

"I"

as desired,

with the hand shift lever 1 or the pedal 2.

"0"

pulling up

.

on the ball head and

Caution Risk of Injury !

As long as the operator is not yet familiar with the machine,
she should turn off the motor with the pedal or hand shift
lever after sewing ea ch buttonhole.
restarting should occur only after the cloth has been
repositioned and the clamp are closed.

Quick stop

The safety system of the 558 has two possibilities for an
s

ewing process

–

Put the hand shift lever 1 in position

–

Step pedal 2 forward.

by operating errors or malfunctions (e.g. needle or thread breakage):

.

"0"

immediate stop during the

19

1 2

3

4

5

6

20

Restar t

In order to avoid damage to the machine, when restarting after a quick stop it is
essential to proceed as follows:

–

Lift the idle lever 5 until it jumps off of the nose 4 of the length setting slide 6.

Attention !

This point is only to be carried out if the machine was turned off immediately after
the first sewing stitches.

–

Pull the turn-off lever 1 forward.

ATTENTION !

Before tur ni ng on the machine always bring the needl e into
the high position by catchin g i n the handwheel 3. A bending
of the needle or damage to the material is thus avoided.

Exception:

The handwheel may not, however, be turned at that
moment in which, after the end of the sewing sequence,
the cutting movement of the upper thread knife begins and
this lies un der the needle hole of the needle plate.

–

Turn the handwheel 3 in t h e direction of the arrow until it catches.
The handwheel is arrested in this position by brake lever 2.
The needle is in its highest position.

–

Open the clam p plates and r emove material.

–

Close the clamp plates again.

–

Turn on the machine with the hand shift lever.
The material support plate moves to its end position.
The needle remains in its highest position.

ATTENTION !

Only turn the hand cra nk of the high -speed wheel when the
handwhee l has caught i n the directi on of tur n.

21

1

2

22

2.3 End P osition of the Sewing Machine

–

Tur n handwheel 2 until it catches.
The needle is in its highest position.

ATTENTION !

Before tur ni ng the hand crank it is essential tha t the needle
be brough t into its high position by m ovi ng the handwheel
into its catch.
A bending of the needle or damage to the material is thus
avoided.

Exception:

The handwheel may not, however, be turned at that
moment in which, after the end of the sewing sequence,
the cutting movement of the upper thread knife begins and
this lies un der the needle hole of the needle plate.

–

Turn the hand crank until the clamp closing lever 1 automatically opens the clamp
arms.
Depending on the setting of the machine to cutting
occurs before or after operation of the cutter bar 3.

–

The machine is in the end position.

before

or

sewing openi ng

after

3

23

2.4 Needles, Threads and Gimps

1

2

Table: Threads and Gimps

Needle thread type
and thickness

Hook thread type
and thickness

Lower gimp type
and thickness

Upper gimp type
and thickness

558-221301
558-231391
558-251301

Polyester fiber thread,
schappe-spun

70/3

Polyester fiber thread,
schappe-spun

70/3

Tube or
wire gimp

not required

Sub-class

558-211241
558-241291

Polyester fiber thread,
schappe-spun

70/3

Polyester fiber thread,
schappe-spun

30/3

not required

Twist g imp

15/3

24

Needles

Needle system: 558
Needle thickness: Nm 90 - 110

Dependent on type of sewing thread and material.

Replacing the needle

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Replace the needle only with the machine turned off.

–

Swing up the combined finger-eye protect i on.
The needle is accessable without hinderance.

–

Loosen screw 1 and remove the ne edle.

–

Push the new needle as far as possible into the hole in the needle bar 2.

Attention !

The furrow of the needle must show to the front with the machine in its end position.

–

Tighten screw 1 again.

–

Swing the combined fi nger-eye protection back again.

Threads

As needle and hook thread, spun, synthetic fiber thread or silk thread can be used.
The appearance of the butto nhole is consid erably influenced by

–

the thread used.

–

the use of di fferent strengths for needle and hook thread.

Gimps

The gimp should stabilize the buttonhole and at the same time by it form.
It should have the following chara ct eristics:

–

not too thick, but pliable and firm

–

uniform diam eter

The recommended threads and gimps in the ta ble alongs i d e are only guide li n es.
Dependen t on sewing device (E n o.) and m aterial other thre ads and thread thicknesses
may also be required.

25

a

b

c

26

e

d

c

2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Thread the underthread only with the machine turned off.

The threading of the underthreads 1 (Page 28) is conducted as shown in the
illustrations on pages 26 and 28

–

Bring the machine in its end position (see Chapter 2.3).
In the en d position the hook bracket with the underthread tension must poin t to the
front (to the seamstress).

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Tilt up the machine head.
The gas pressure spri ng aids the tilting and holds the machine head in its posit i on.

–

Place the thread spool on the thread stand and guide the thread through hole a.

–

Guide the thread through the thread guide b in the thread guide tube c on the back
of the housing.

–

Guide the thread through the thread guide tube d.

–

Guide the thread with the aid of the threading wire from the accessories pack into
the spreader drive spindle e.
For this insert the threading wire into the spreader drive spindle from above.

–

Lead the t hread over the guide pi n f and past behind the tension plate g.

–

Lead the t hread between t he two tension di scs of the und erthr ead tension h up
over the guide pin i.

–

Guide the thread through the eye of the torsion spring k.

–

With sub-classes
through t he hole of th e bring-forward lever l.

–

Lead the t hread up thro ugh the thre ad guide tube m.

–

Lead the t hread throug h the spreade r s top n.

–

Guide the thread from below through ho l e o in the hook and needle hole p of the
needle plate. Hereby let an approx. 25 mm long underthread end hang out of the
needle hole.

-211241, -221301

in alphabetical order of the letters

and

-241291

additionally guide the thread

:

= Gimp thread (Page 28)

2

27

-231391

-211241

m

k

g

-251301

-221301

-241291

l

f

i

h

12

p

o

n

28

Path of the underthread when using yarn or wool cones:

If yarn or wool cones are used as hook t h read then t hese are to be set on the as
optional equipment available thread unreeler 1 (Order no. 558 3001) underneath the
table.

–

Lead the t hread throug h the thread guides under t he table.

–

Lead the t hread up thro ugh the thre ad tube.

–

The threading of the mac hi ne above the table is co nducted as described ab ove.

1

29

a

1

2

30

3

2.6 Threading the Gimp

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Thread the lower and upper gi m p only with th e machine
turned off.

–

Place tube and wire gimp rolls on the gimp roll holder 1.
Place the gimp rolls with crosswinding vertically on the yarn plate 2 for an easy pull
off of the gimp or thread.

–

For stiff and di f ficult to bend lower gimps choose the short feed over the as
optional equipment available gim p roll holder 3 (Order no. 557 1103).

Lower gimp threading

The threading of the lower gimp is conducted as shown in the lllustrations on pages 30,
32 and 33

in the alphabetical order of the lette rs

:

Sub-classes -211241, -221301, -231391 and -251301

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Thread the gimp from the gimp roll holder 1 or the yarn plate 2 through hole a in
the thread stand.

–

Lead the gimp in order through the gimp guide b and the gi m p guide tube s c and d.

–

Thread the gimp through gimp guide e.

–

With sub-class
Through the draw spring the loosening gimp thread is held taut during
simultaneous turni ng movement of the h ook bracket and operation of the gri pper
knife.

–

Thread the gimp through the gimp hole g of the nee dl e plate.
Allow an appr ox. 25 mm long gimp end to hang out of the gim p hole.

4 = Hook thr ead (Page 32)
5 = Gimp thre ad (Page 32)

–

Replace the clamp plates again (see Chapter 2.1).

-221301

the gimp mu st also be th readed through the draw spring f.

:

31

b

c

45

d

e

f

g

32

Sub-class -241291

This sub-class is equipped with gimp pulling device.
Before the start of sewing it pulls the gimp back to the correct starting length.
For correct positioning see the Service Instructions.

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Turn the hand crank drehen until the hook bracket reaches the positio n shown.
The gimp pulling device 1 faces forward (to the seamstress).

–

Lead the gi mp 2 from the lower gimp ro l l holder 4 thr ough the side recess a in the
machine housing.

3 = Hook thread

–

Thread the gimp through the holes of the gimp pulling device 1.
For threading through the hole b press the brake flap 5 lying behind a little to the
back.

–

Thread the gimp 2 through the holes of the gimp guide c and gimp hol e d of the
needle plate.
With the gimp pulling device in low position let an approx. 4 mm long gimp end look
out of the gimp hole of the needle plate.

–

Replace the clamp plates again (see Chapter 2.1).

:

1

2 3

d

c

4a

b

5

1

33

b

a

c

f

34

d

e

Upper gimp thread ing

The feed of the upper gimp is possible with a gim p guider plac ed in front of the needle.
The threading of the upper gimp is conducted as shown in the illustrations alongside

the alphabetical order of the letters:

–

Thread the gimp from the gimp roll holder a through gimp guide b.

–

Lead the gim p through t he gimp guide angle c and betwee n the tension di scs of
the gimp pre-tensioning d.

–

Thread the gimp through the gimp guide e and the gim p guider f.

The assembly for round and flat gimps is available under the Order no.: 578 5101.

in

35

b

a

dih1g

ec f 2

36

2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Thread the upper thread only with the machine turned off.

The threading of the upper thread is conducted as shown in the illustrations on pages
36 and 38

–

–

–
–
–

–
–
–

–

in the alphabetical order of the lette rs:

Bring the machine int o i t s end position (see Chapt er 2.3).
In the end position t h e hook bracket with the underthread tension must face
forward (to th e seamstress).

Close the clamps with the aid of the clamp operating lever and swing up the
combined finger-eye protection.
The needle bar and needle are accessable unhindered.

Place the thread spool on the thread stand and guide the thread through hole a.
Guide the thread in order through the thread guide b and under thread guide c.
Lead the thread between the tension discs d of the upper thread tension and over

guide pin e.
Guide the thread through the hole of the lever f and the th read lever g.
Lead the t hread throug h the thread gripper h and thread guide i.
Guide the thread with the aid of the threading wire from the accessories pack

through needle bar k.
Lead the t hread past behi nd the tensi on disc of the pre-tensioning l and through

the eye of the needle.

Subsequent pulling of the upper thread by hand

The upper thread is trimmed after the last stitch automatically.
For subsequent pulling of the upper thread:

–

Operate the release lever 2 or push button 1 and subsequently pull the upper
thread by hand.

37

k

38

l

Threading by difficult to unreel thread rolls

To achieve an easy pull off of the upper and underthread from the thread plate:

–

Additional l y guide the undert hread throug h the holes 1 and 2.

–

Additionally guide the upper thread through hole 3

1 2

3

39

1234

5 6 7

40

2.8 Thread T ension

Upper threa d tension

The upper thread tensio n on the machi ne arm must generally be se t tighter than the
underthread tension.

It is set by turning the knurled nut 6.

Tension increase = turn to the right
Tension decrease = turn to the left

The upper thread tensio n i s executed as a dual tens i on:

–

Remaining rest tension 1

It serves to tauten the upper thread during the cutting procedure under the
needle plat e as well as to achieve the desired length of upper thread end.
The rest tension must, depending on the elasticity of the upper thread used, be
so set that upper thread end hanging out of the needle is long enough to assure
a secure sewing start.
The setting occurs by turning the s l eeve 2.

Longer thread end = turn to the left
Shorter thread end = turn to the right

ATTENTION !

Do not hei ghten the cutting effect of the uppe r thread kni fe
by further increasing the rest tension.
To heighten the cut ting effect sharpen th e knife.

If the up per thread end remains t o o long then work must be conducted without
tension r el ease. This can, for example, be the case with fir m and hardly flexible
upper thread.
For the approp riate sett i ngs see Service Inst ruction 558.

–

Main tension 5

This should be appropriately corrected after changing the rest tension.
The thread gripper 3 remains closed in the end position.
During removal of the sewing pieces this avoids a subsequent pulling of the
upper thread out of th e thread ten sion.
For the next sewing seq uence there i s then always an uni formly long start i ng
thread avail able.

Subsequent pulling of the upper thread by hand

Open the th read grippe r 3 by hand and subs equently pull the thread.
For this either hold the button 4 down or swing the rele ase lever 7 down.

41

1

4

2

3

5

6

42

Underthread tension

The underthread tension is set by turning the knurled nut 3 on the hook bracket.

Tension increase = turn to the right
Tension decrease = turn to the left

Thread pull-on spring for the underthread

The thread pull-on spring 1 influences the pull-on of the underthread through its stopper
width and pre-tension and thus the form and beading of the buttonhole.

Setting the stopper width: Loosen screw 5 and turn the angle 4.
Setting the pre-tension: Loosen screw 6 and turn angle 2.

Gimps

The upper and lower gimp shoul d be pulled easily and uniformly from the guide hole in
the needle plate and the gimp guider.
For a faultless appearance of the buttonhole a braki ng or clampin g of the gimp on its
way to the sewing station is to be avoided.

43

1

2

3

44

2.9 Sewing

–

Place a work piece under the clamps and align precisely.
The alignment can be made with markings or the stops available as optional
equipment (see Chapter 1.5).

Caution Risk of Injury !

Keep hands out from under the lowering cloth clamps !

–

Pull the clamp operating lever 1 to the front until it touches.
The work piece is fixed by the clamps.

–

Turn on the motor with hand shift lever 3.
For this loosen the hand shift lever out of its catch by
and bring into position

–

Press start lever 2 down.
The machi ne, depending on setting, automatically conduct s the following work
steps in order:

"I"

.

pulling up

on the ball head

With the setting "cutting before sewing":

–

The cutting knife cuts the buttonhole slit.

–

The mater i al support plate moves quickly with t he clamped in work piece so far
forward until the beginning of the buttonho l e slit is exactly unde r the needle.

–

At the same time the clamp plates are d rawn apart .
The buttonhole slit is opened a little.

–

The sewing unit is turned on and the buttonhole sewn.

–

After the left seam row is completed the needle stops outside the cloth.

–

The mater i al support plate moves quickly to its end position , thereby openi ng the
clamps.

With the setting "cutting after sewing":

–

The mater i al support plate moves quickly with t he clamped in work piece so far
forward until the position where the button hole is to start is exactly under the
needle.

–

At the same time the clamp plates are d rawn apart .
The cloth l i es taut for the sewing of the buttonhol e.

–

The sewing unit is turned on and the buttonhole sewn.

–

After the left seam row is completed the material support plate moves quickly in the
cutting position. The b u tton hole slit is c ut.

–

The mater i al support plate moves quickly to its end position , thereby openi ng the
clamps.

45

1

2

3

4

56

46

Caution Risk of Injury !

As long as the seamstress is not yet familiar with the
operation of the machine she shoul d turn of f the motor with
the hand shift lever 3 or the pedal after sewing each
buttonhole.

Work procedure for the experienced seamstress

After a suitable learning period the closing of the clamp operating lever 1 and the
turning on and off of the motor with every buttonhole through the seamstress can be
eliminated.

Instead the experienced seamstress proceeds as follows:

–

Place the work piece exactly under the clamps by eye or with stops and hold the
cloth fi xed in t h i s position.

Caution Risk of Injury !

Keep hands out from under the lowering cloth clamps !

–

With the le ft index finger press the start l ever 2 down.
The machi ne closes the clamps by itself and runs t hrough all described work
procedure automatically.

Taking out the finished work piece

–

If necessary a little subsequent pulling of the upper gimp and then trimming. The
work piece can be pushed further or removed.

–

For removal of work pieces with sub-classes -231391 and -251301 Guide the
underthread ( hook thread) and lower gimp under the thre ad gripper 5 .
Pull both threads from right to left along the knife 6.
The threads are trimm ed.

2.10 Bloc king t he Clamp Lift

Normally, after the ending of the sewing process the clamps are automatically lift ed
(opened).

If they should not be lifted, proceed as follows:

–

Push button 3 immediately and hold pressed until the machine shuts off.

47

1

2

3

48

4

2.11 Butto nhole length

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Set the buttonhole length only with the machine turned off.

ATTENTION !

The changing of the buttonhole length requires a
simultaneous change of the cutting length and thus the
mounting of a different cutting block (see Chapter 2.12) !

Buttonholes with out T aper Bar

By buttonholes without taper bar the buttonhole length is determined through the
position of the length setting slide 3:

–

Loosen cla mp screw 4.

–

Set the desired buttonhole length.

Longer buttonhole length = Pull the length setting slide 3 forward
Shorter buttonhole length = Push the length setting slide 3 to t he rear

–

The scale 1 a nd marking lines 2 ser ve for sett i ng a specifi c buttonhole leng th.

–

Tighten cla m p screw 4 again.

ATTENTION !

Set only th e through the sewing device (E no.) allowable
minimum and maximum buttonhole lengths.

Sub-classes -221301 and -241291:

With these sub-classes an exceeding of the maximum sewing length is prevented by a
stop.

With the setting of the length setting slide at max. sewing length the stop piece must lay
in at the guide slit at the front.

ATTENTION !

Scale plate, length setting slide and stop piece have been
correctly set at the factory.
They may not be altered.

49

Example:

E407/L2
resp.
E2407/L2

1

Sewing le ngth

Cutting length

50

Taper bar length

minimum
Sewing le ngth

maximum
Sewing length

Sewing le ngth

Buttonholes with T aper Bar

By buttonholes with taper bar the different buttonhole lengths are achieved through
insertion of the appropriate lower disc cam 1.
It determines taper bar form and l ength.
For exchanging the l ower disc cam see Chapter 2.18.

The order nu m bers for the differe n t l o wer disc cams can be found on the device sheets
for the 558 and 578.

The shortening, lengthening or complete shutting off of the taper bars occurs as
described above through adjusting the length setting slide and mounting of the
corresponding cutti ng block.

ATTENTION !

Do not set the taper bar length below the minimum or
beyond the maximum buttonhole lengt h.

When setting the length of buttonholes with taper bar along with the cutting length the
taper bar length must also be added in.

Example: 18 mm cutti ng length + 4 mm taper bar length = 22 mm sewing length

Special characteristic by sub-class 558-241291:

With this sub-class buttonhole length, cutting length and taper bar length can be
changed.
For this four different

Each cutt i ng length pa ckage includes:

–

3 lower disc cams and cutting blocks for sewing buttonhol es with 3 different cuttin g
lengths

–

a corresponding clamp plate set

The clamp plate sets are differentiated by differing lengths for cloth clamps and thread
scissors wi t h operating element for the short trimming of thread .

In order to assure a secure gripping and short trimming of thread and gimp the
difference in the buttonhole lengths which can be sewn with one cutting length package
cannot exceed 2 mm.

Example:

578 E 2407/ L2 (Sewing device E2407 c om bined with cut ting length package L2)
Allowable sewing lengths: minimum 24 mm

cutting length packages

L1 for cutting lengths o f 14 - 20 mm
L2 for cutting lengths o f 18 - 24 mm
L3 for cutting lengths o f 22 - 28 mm
L4 for cutting lengths o f 26 - 32 mm

maximum 26 mm.

(L1...L4) can be requested:

51

1

2

3

4

5

6

52

7

8

2.12 Cutting Leng th

The cutting length is determined by the length of the cutting block.
It can be altered by changing the cutting block.

The order numbers for the different cutting blocks are, taking into account the sewing
device used (E n o.), to be found on the device sheets for th e 558 or 578.

Changing the cutting block

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Change the cutting block an d cutting knife only with the
machine turned off.

Cutting block 3 a nd cutting knife 4 are designed so that t wo configurati ons are possible:

–

Configura tion

–

Configura tion

(on cutter bar 1)

top
bottom

(below the clamp plates on the anvil body 6)

To change the cutting block:

–

Loosen screw 2 or 8 and remove th e cutting block or cutting knife entfernen.

–

Insert the new cutting block and cuttin g k ni fe and tighten screws 2 and 8 again.

Attention !

When inserting push the new cutting block to th e back until touching on the stop 5
or 7.

ATTENTION !

Insert only the cutting blocks corresponding to each cutting
knife.

Cutting knife for "cutting b efore sewing" have a larger eye form than a cutt i ng
knife for "cutting after sewing".

In order to avoid having two different knife impressions on one cutting block the
cutting block co rresponding to the cutting knives must always be inserted.

Cutting knives with two di fferent knife impressions cause buttonholes to not be
cleanly cut and must be trued again (see Chapter 2.13).

53

12

21

54

3

4

Mounting the cutting block at the top or bottom ?

The mounting of the cutting block 2 and the cutting knife 1 is dependent on the
sub-class with its sewing device (E no.) for cutting "before" or "after sewing":

A. Sewing device for "cutting before sewing":

–

Cutting block at bottom and cutting knife at top

–

The material is supported by the cutting block during the cutting procedure.
In this way an unwanted pressing down of the edges of the buttonhole slit by thick
material (as in configuration b) is avoided.

Attention !

With the cutting knife mounted at the top the waste pipe 3
for collection of cutting waste must be mounted on the
cutter bar 4.

B. Sewing device for "cutting after sewing":

–

Cutting block at the top and cutting knife below

–

The sewn buttonhole seam glides down the slim sides of the cutting knife without
resistan ce during the cutting procedure.
In this way an unwanted deformation through pressure exerted on the buttonhole
seam (as with configuration a) is avoided.

C. Sewing device for "cutting before and after sewing":

–

Cutting block at the top and cutting knife below

–

Exception:

With the setting "cu tting before sewin g" and at the s ame time pro cessing of th ick
materi al the reverse configurat i on (cutting block at the bottom an d cutting knife
above) is to be chosen.
In this way an unwanted pressing down of the edges of the buttonhole slit (as with
configuration b) is avoided.

ATTENTION !

For the change-over from "cutting before sewing" to
"cutting after sewing" it is essential to obderve Chapter

2.19.

55

12 3

56

2.13 Cuttin g Blocks

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Remove the cutting block only with the machine turned off.

A trueing (filing) of the cutting block becomes necessary,

–

when the cutting block has been too strongly cut into by the cutting knife.

–

when two d i fferent cutti ng knife forms h ave wor ked on the cutting block (Illu s. 2).

When trueing the cu tting block care is to be taken:

–

The cutting block must be so filed that the impression of the knife blade is to
be seen everywhere very fine and exactly uni form

( Illus. 1).

ATTENTION !

The trueing of the cutting block must be conducted very
precisely.
Use only flawless, straight bastard files !

–

The height of the cutting blocks may only be reduced by a
through filing.

–

To achieve a uniform distribution of the cutting pressure the cutting block must hit
parallel onto the cutting knife (see sketch).
One-sided cutting pressure, particularly in th e area of the eye, can cause the
cutting knife to break off.
Illustration 1 shows a correctly filed, illustration 3 a badly filed cutting block.

–

After trueing one c utting block, all other cutt i ng block used must also be reworked
to the
work continue with the same cut ting pressure. Otherwise t here is a danger of
breaking the cutting knife by a change of the cutting block !

Malfunctions during cutting

After a longer period of operation the sharpness of the cutting knife is reduced. The
blade is blunt an d t he knife no longer cuts prec i sely in spite of a correctly trued cutting
block.

–

Send the knife to one of th e

same height dimension

. Only in this way can, after a cutting block change,

DÜRKOPP ADLER AG

for reworking.

maximum 1.5 mm

57

2.14 Cutting Pressure

1

The cutting pressure is set with screw 1:

Increase cutting pressure = turn to the right
Decrease cutting pressure = turn to the lef t

After each adjustment of screw 1 the cutting pressure must be checked.

Checking the cutting pressure

–

Turn the machine with the hand crank.
The cutting pressure may only be set so high that the hand crank can be turned at
the moment of cutti ng without exerting too mu ch energy !

ATTENTION !

Excessive cutting pressure leads to unnecessary wear of
the cutting tools !

–

If even with this setting of the cutting pressure the cloth can still not be cleanly cut:
True the cutting block or check the sharpness of the knife blade (see Chapter 2.13).

58

2.15 Spreading of the Material

1

2

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Set the spreading only with the machine turned off.

At the setting
start of the material support plate. The material i s drawn tau t .

At the setting
cutting. The buttonhole sl i t is opened a little. The stitching needl e can cleanly se w both
seam rows without stitching into the cut edge of the material.

Normally a spreading of

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Loosen screws 1 and 3 and move the stops 2 and 4.

Increase spreading = move the stops inward
Decrease spreading = move the stops outward

"cutting after sewing"

"cutting before sewing"

1.5 mm is sufficient

the clamp plates are drawn apart after the run

the clamp plates are drawn apart only after the

.

3

4

–

Tighten screws 1 and 3 again.

–

With unequal seam widths correct the spreading accordingly

ATTENTION !

So that bot h seam rows are equally wide th e l eft and r i ght
stops must be moved equal di stances.

59

A

B

1

2

60

A

3

B

4

2.16 Stitch Density

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Set the stitch density only with the machine turned off.

For the whole buttonhole length

The stitch density is adjustable between 0.9 and 2 mm.
It is determined by the required strength and the appearance of the buttonhole, as well
as the thread size used.

–

Loosen screw 2.

–

Move the transport lever 1.

Movement in direction A = stitches become denser
Movement in direction B = stitche are farther apart

–

Tighten screw 2 again.

In the eye of the buttonhole

This setti ng has no inf l uence on the s titch densi t y in both sea m rows.

Stitch density in the buttonhole eye to be

–

Loosen screw 4.

–

Move the stitch length regulator rail 5 in the direction of the arrow.

–

Tighten screw 4 again.

Stitch density in the buttonhole eye to be

–

Loosen screw 4.

–

Replace the old stitch length regulator rail 5 with the stitch length regulator rail 3
found in the accessories pack.

–

Tighten screw 4 again.

smaller

greater

3

:

:

5

61

B

1

2

A

3

62

Seam width
Cutting area
Buttonhole width

2.17 Seam Width (Buttonh ole Width)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Set the se am width only w i th the mach i ne turned off.

At the setting "cutting after sewing" the buttonhole width is arrived at as follows:

Buttonhole width = Cutting area + 2 x seam width

Setting the seam width

–

Loosen the wi ng nut 2.

–

Move the connec t ing rod 3.

Movement in direction A = wider seam
Movement in direction B = narrower seam

–

Tighten the wing nut 2 again.

Setting for sewing with gimp thread

–

Select the seam width so that the gimp thread is not pierced by the needle tip but
rather just still overcast.

Smallest and greatest allowable seam width

The smalles t and greates t allowable seam wid t h for the sewing device us ed (E no.) is
determ i ned by the limit plate attached with screw 1.

ATTENTION !

Do not loosen screw 1 under any circumstances.
There is a
clamps, hook, spreader and needle pl ate !

Should the machine be converted t o another sewin g device (E no.) umgerüs tet werden,
then the a l l owable butto nhole widths for it are to be found in t he table in Chap t er 1.4.

The conversion is to be made pe r the Service Instructions.

danger of breakage

for the needle, cloth

63

1

2

3

4

64

2.18 Buttonh ole Form

The buttonhole form is determined by the t wo exchangeable disc cams 1 and 2:

–

The upper disc cam 1 determines the eye form.

–

The lower disc cam 2 determines, by taper bar buttonholes, the taper bar form and
buttonhole length.

Disc cams, cutting blocks and cutting knife for the different buttonhole forms and
buttonhole lengths are to be found in the device sheet for the 558 and 578.

Exchanging the disc cams

–

Bring the machine into the end position (see Chapter 2.3).
In the en d position the roller bolt 4 i s held in position by the underlying cam pl ate 3.
The disc ca m s c an be removed unhind ered.

–

Remove and exchang e t he disc cam s.

After the exchange of the disc cams it is essential that the following poi nts be
checked:

1. Are the corresponding cutting knife and the appropriately long cutting block
mounted ?
If neces sary exchange the cutting knife and cutting block (see Chap ter 2.12)

2. Is the correct buttonhole length set as per Chapter 2.11 ?
If necessary set the correct buttonhole length at the length setting slide (see
Chapter 2.11).

3. D uring the exchange of the k ni ves was the corresponding cut t ing block also
mounted ?

When using the wrong cutting block two differing cutting knife impressions appear in it.
This leads to a bad cutting of the buttonhole slit. In this case true the cutting block again
(see Chapter 2.13).

ATTENTION !

When changing to a different cutting knife form
it is essential to also install the corresponding cutting
block !

65

1

2

66

2.19 Change-over to Cutting Before or After Sewing

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Conduct t he change-over to " cutting before" or "cutti ng
after sewing" only with the machine turned off vornehmen.

The change-over from "cutting before" to "cutting after sewing" is only possible with
sub-class es with the appropria te sewing device (E no.) (see Device Table in Chapter

1.4).

All machine elements w hich must be adjusted are m arked by the following bi-lingual
sticker with the following meaning:

Adjustment in direction of arrow = cutting before sewing

Adjustment in direction of arrow = cutting after sewing

Note:

CA and CB are the English language abb revia tions.
CA = Cut after CB = Cut before

Change-over to "cutting before" or "cutting after sewing"

The settings for cutting before and cutti ng after sewing are each limited by two stops.

ATTENTION !

The stops have been set.
They may not be altered !

1. Timing of the cut

–

Loosen screw 2.

–

Slide the turn-off bolt 1 in the appropriate arrow direction.
Press the high-speed wheel inward for easier setting of the turn-off bolt.

–

Tighten screw 2 again.

67

12 34

68

5

6

2. Timing of the closing and opening of the clamps

–

Tilt the machine head up.

–

Loosen screw 2.

–

Push the clamp closing lever 1 in the appropriate arrow direction up to the stop.

–

Tighten screw 2 again.

3. With or without cutting room between the seam rows

–

Loosen screws 5.

–

Slide the lever 4 in the appropri ate arrow direc tion up or down up to the stop.

Attention !

The amount that the lever has to be moved is very small .

–

Tighten screws 5 again.

4. Cutting knife and c utt ing block

–

Slide the cut ting knife 4 in the appropriate arrow direc tion up to th e stop.
The configuration of the cutting at the top or b el ow occurs hereby as pe r the
instructions in Chapter 2.12.

–

Insert the cutting block 3 corresponding to the cutting knife used and slide to the
back up to the s top (see Chap ter 2.12).

ATTENTION !

Only mount the cutting block corresponding the cutting
knife used !

When using t he wrong cutting block two different cutting knife impression s are
made.
This leads to a bad cut of the buttonhole slit.

5. Exchanging the upper dis c c am

–

Bring the machine in its end position bringen (see Chapter 2.3).
In end position the roller bolt is held in its position by the underlyi ng cam plate.
The upper di sc cam can be re m oved unhindered.

–

Remove and exchange the upper disc cam.

(see Chapter 2.19)

69

3. Maintenance

1

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Maintain the machine only when it is turned off.

3.1 Cleaning

A clean machine protects against malfunctions !

Daily cleaning:

Clean the area under the clamp plates, particularly around the hook bracket 1, of
sewing dust, thread rests and cutting refuse.

ATTENTION !

It is to be avoided that cutting refuse enters into the
housing of the main disc cam at the back. If a vacuum is
available this is recommended.

–

Take off the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1) and remove cutting waste.

–

Tilt up the m achine head and remove cutting was t e from the bas e.

70

3.2 Lubrication

12

For lubrication of the machine only
SP-NK 10 is available at the

Check the oil level in the oil reservoirs

–

The lubrication of all moving parts the machine on the machine arm and hook
bracket is through a central oi l wick lubrication out of t he oil reservoirs 1 and 2.
If necessary fill oil through the filling plug up to the "max." marking.

Weekly lubrication of the buttonhole machine

–

The marked positions on the material support plate and the control curve housings
are to be given a few drop of oil weekly.

The positions are shown in the pictures on the following page.

DÜRKOPP ADLER AG

ESSO SP-N K 10

lubricating oil is to be used.

sales o ffices.

71

3.3 Oiling Positio ns

*

*

*

*
*
*
*

*

*

*

72

*

*
*
*

*
*
*
*

*

*
*

*

*

*

73

*

*

74

*

*
*
*

*

*

*

75

4. Malfunction Remedies

Malfunction Remedy

1. Machine does not start or
runs unevenly.

a) V-belt from the motor to the

high-speed wheel or to the
handwheel i s t oo loose.

b) Machine is in front of the

cutting position at the time of
starting.

2. Clamp closing lever cannot
be closed or opened

Material support plat e i s not in
the end pos i tion.

3. Cloth clamp pressure is
too high or too low.

4. Buttonhole is not cleanly
cut open.

.

Tension V-belt as per Installation Instructions for
the 558.

With the main witch turned off and the needle high
bring the machine into its end position with the
hand crank.

Reduce cutting pressure as per Chapter 2.14.

With the hand crank bring the material support
plate into the end position. With a repeat of this
malfunction have a specialist reset the turn-off
timing (see Service Instructions for the 558).

When chan gi ng over to cuttin g before or cutt i ng
after sewing always slide the turn-off bolt up to the
stop.

Reset the cloth clamp pressure (see Chapter

2.17).

a) Cutting block has been cut into

too deepl y by t he knife.

b) Knife blade is blunt or broken.

c) Exit opening in the knife is

blocked by cloth was te.

d) Cutting pressure is not

correctl y set.

e) The cutting block

corresponding to the cutting
knife is not mounted.

True the cut t ing block (see Chapt er 2.13) and
reset the cutting pressure (see Chapter 2.14).

Insert a new knife or send the old knife to one of
the

DÜRKOPP ADLER AG

reworking.
Remove the knife and c l ean the exit opening in

the knife and knife holder or cutter bar.
Reset the cutting pressure (see Chapter 2.14).

Always mount the cutting block corresponding to
the cutting knife used !

business offices for

76

Malfunction Remedy

5. Unequal stitch lengths or
stitch positions.

a) V-belt is too loose.

b) Gimp is too taut, jams or does

not pass easily through the
gimp hole of the needle plate .

6. Missi ng stitches

a) Needle is blunt, bent or not

correctly inserted.

b) Upper or underthre ad is
not correctly threaded.

c) Thread tension is set
too taut.

d) Thread unwinds badly from
the thread rolls.

e) Hook or spreader have

become misadjusted.

f) Material is not held or spread

correctly.

Tension V-belt as per Ins tallation Instructi ons for
the 558.

Use thinner gimp or insert a n eedle plate wi th
larger gimp hole.
For stiff and inflexible gimps use gimp roller holder
on the table (Order no. 557 1103).

Insert a new, flawless needle (see Chapter 2.4).

Check the threading path of the upper or
underthread (s ee Chapter 2.5 and 2.7).

Reset thread tension (see Chapter 2.8).

See Chapter 2.7.

Readjust m ent only through a speci al i st !

Check the spreading of the materi al (see Chapt er

2.17) and pressure of the upper cloth clamps.

7. Loose stit ches.

a) Thread tensions are not set

correctly.

b) Upper or underthread is not

threaded correctly.

8. Thread breakage.

a) Upper or underthread is not

threaded correctly.

b) Needle is incorrectly inserted,

bent or sharp-edged.

c) Thread used is uns ui t able

(knotted, hard or too thick).

d) Thread tensions are set too

taut.

e) Needle plate, hook or

spreader are damaged.

Reset thread tensions (see Chapter 2.8).

Check the threading path of the upper or
underthread (s ee Chapter 2.5 and 2.7).

Check the threading path of the upper or
underthread (s ee Chapter 2.5 and 2.7).

Insert a new, flawless needle (see Chapter 2.4).

Use a different thread. See recommendations in
Chapter 2.6.

Reset thread tensions. (see Chapter 2.8)

Replace da m aged parts through new ones or
have reworked by a specialist.

77

Malfunction Remedy

9. Ne edl e breakage.

a) Needle thickness is unsuitable

for the material or the thread.

b) Needle is hitti ng the cloth

clamps.

10. No clean seam beginning or
unthreading of the upper
thread

.

a) Rest tension for the upper

thread is set too taut. Start
thread for the next sewing
beginning i s thus too sho rt.

b) Thread gripper on the upper

thread te ns i on does not
clamp the upper thread in
the machine end position.

Use a needle thickness as per Chapter 2.6 or as
per sewing devic e (E no.).

The max. buttonhole wid t h l i sted in the table on
page 8 for ea ch sewing device (E no.) may not be
exceeded. Resetting by service personnel as per
Service Instructions for the 558.

Reset the rest tension for the upper thread (see
Chapter 2.8).

Reset the t hread grip per as per Service
Instructions for the 558.

78

5. Optional Equipment
Electroma gnetically Operated Upper Thread Catcher

5.1 General

The sub-cla ss 558-221301 has the the e l ec tro-magnetically operated upper thre ad
catcher as standard equipment.

All other s ub-classes can, on request, be outf itted with i t at the factory or have it
retrofitted.

Function

The electromagnetical l y operated upper thread catcher grab s the upper thread
immediately after the thread cutting procedure and hold it clamped. When sewing the
next buttonhole i t places it i n the righ t seam.

The means:

Secure seam beginning even in light, loose weaves.

•

Beginning stitches drawn fast.

•

Trimming of the underside of the buttonhole is unnecessary because the starting

•

thread i s overcast.

Parts set required for the retrofitting

Retrofitting atta chment: Order no. 558 10002

Factory atta chment: Order no. 558 10012

ATTENTION !

By equipment with the upper thread catcher in t he individu al sub-classe s t he following
points are to be observed:

558-231391 The m ax i mum sewing length wi t h thread catcher function is 32 mm.

For sewing length s above 32 mm the upper thread catcher must be
deactivated (see chapter 2.2).

558-251301 The m ax . sewing length with thread catcher funct i on is 42 mm.

For sewing lengths above 42 mm the thread catcher must be deactivated.

79

b3

12

3

4

5

80

5.2 Electrical Connection

ATTENTION

All work on the electrical components of the upper thread
catcher may only be conducted by electricians or
appropriately trained personnel. The mains plug must be
pulled.

The transformer in the controls of the upper thread catchers is equipped with
connections for following main s vol tages:

1 ~ 200 V
1 ~ 220 V
1 ~ 380 V
1 ~ 415 V

At the factory

–

With other mains voltages change the connection on the primary side of the
transformer accordingly before commissioning.

the transformer is connected to 1 ~ 380 V.

5.3 Function Sequence

–

After the machine is turned on the switching piece mounted on the material
support plate operates switch b3.
Thread catcher 1 lowers wit h t he clamped upper thread 2 t o the material.

–

Appropri ate to the set buttonhole length the sewing drive tu rns on and begins with
the ri ght seam.
The upper thread end placed by the thread catcher is thereby overcast and sewn in.

–

Shortly before reaching the buttonhole eye switch b3 falls off of the switching piece.
Thread catcher 1 moves back into its upper positi on.

–

During sewin g of the buttonh ol e eye the upper toothed segment 5 with stoppe r
angle 4 leaves its extreme right position.
The slewably beari nged thread catcher changes from the insertion t o the catch
position, e.g. from the right to the left buttonhole seam.

–

After finishing the left buttonhole seam the sewing drive turns off in the needle high
position.
The upper thread is trimmed.

(Continuation see the following page)

81

6

b2

7

8

82

–

The cam 6 connected with the length setting slide operates the switch b2. The
thread catcher lowers.
Through the slide of th e opener lever 8 onto t he opener 7 th e t hread catch er is
opened.
Via the curve plate 3 it i s swung in front of the needle t o grip the upper thread .

–

During further lowering the opener lever 8 falls off the opener 7.
The thread catcher closes.

–

After cam 6 has run over the switch b2 the thread catcher with the clamped thread
moves back into the upper posit i on.
Opener lever 8 thereby slides past

behind

opener 7 without being operated.

83

1

b4

b1

84

b5

5.4 Turn-on Interlocks

Switch b4

With the cl ot h clamps opened the mac hine can only be turned on in its end position. For
this cams 1 operates the switch b4.

Switch b1

In all oth e r machine positions wit h the cloth cl amps opened a turnin g on and thu s also
the thread catcher function are blocked by switch b1.
The safety switch b1 is bypassed by the act i vat e d switch b4.
The machine, with

Example:

The sewing sequence is int errupted with the hand shift lever.
During the subsequent release of the cloth clamps switch b1 opens.
The switch interlock in the thread catcher controls switches the motor off.

To restart:

–

Pull the turn-off lever forward (see chapter 2.2).

–

Turn the handwheel unti l it catches.
The needle is in its highest position.

–

Remove material.

–

Close the cloth clamps.

–

Bring the hand shift lever into position

–

Turn on the m ot or by operating the push butto n b5.
The machine moves back into its end position.

opened cloth clamps,

can only be star t ed in its end position.

.

"I"

Deactivating the upper thread c at cher

By pulling the plug from the electromagnet the upper thread catcher is deactivated.

ATTENTION !

Do not block the thread catcher by pulling the plug from the
thread cat cher control s. The power supply for the sewing
drive is inte rrupted otherwise.

85

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

86

5.5 Setting

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
Make setting only with th e m achine turned off.

5.5.1 Lift of the Electr omagn et

The lift of t he electromagnet should be 20 mm.
Measured is t he distance between the upper edge of the protecti ve sleeve 4 and the
upper edge of the anchor 3 in both positions (ON and OFF). The difference must be
20 mm.

–

Loosen lock nut 6 .

–

Screw anchor 3 f urther in or out .

–

Tighten lock nut 6 again.

5.5.2 Base Position of the Upper Thread Catchers

The forward edge 5 of the magnet must be in line with the face 2 of the machine arm.

–

Loosen screws 1 and 12.

–

Align the ma gnet.

–

Tighten screws 1 and 12 again.

Opener lever 13 and gui de piece 11 mus t lie parallel t o one anothe r.

–

Loosen cla mp screw 9.

–

Turn the opener lever 13 with thread catcher 10 and set parallel to the guide piece

11.

–

Tighten cla m p screw 9 again.

So that the thread catcher 10 can close securely there must be a little play between the
lower part 14 of th e opener lever and the movable leg 15.

–

Bring the machine into the end position (see chapter 2.2.3).

–

Screw out the stop screw 7 so far that during retreat of the opener lever before
operation of the movable leg 15 a clearance of approx. 0.3 mm is still felt between
bracket 8 and stop screw 7.

87

1

2

3

45 6

7

88

89

5.5.3 Lowering Movement

Opener setting

After the c l os i ng of the thread grippe r 1 the opener l ever 3 must m ove pas t behind the
opener 2 unhindered.
Thread gripper 1 must thereby remain closed.

–

Check the unhin dered movement of t he opener lever 1.

–

If necess ary, set open er 2 accordin gl y with screw 9.

Insertion position

When sewing th e right buttonhole seam and simulta neous manual operation of t he
magnet the inserted upper thread end should be overcast.

–

Set the insertion position accordingly with setting screw 8.

Thread catcher height

The clearance between
This setting applies for medium-weight material. With thicker or thinner materials a
correction may be necessary.

–

Loosen screws 6 and 7.

–

Set the thread catcher height.

–

Tighten screws 6 and 7 again.

–

Check the insertion position again and correct, if necessary.

lowered thread gripper

and material should be 3 - 4 mm.

Opener

The clearance between the back of the opener 2 and the opener lever 3 must be about

0.5 mm.

–

Set the distance accordingly by turning the setting screw 8.

Slewing movement

Shortly before reaching its lowest position wird thread gripper 1, through the curve plate
5, is swung close in front of the needle.
In this position the di stance bet ween thread gripper 1 an d needle must be about 3 m m .

–

Loosen screws 4.

–

Set the curve plate 5 higher or lower.

–

Tighten screws 4 again.

89

12 3

45 6

7

90

89

5.5.4 Gripping Movemen t

Bringing the thread gripper in gripping position

After sewing t he left butto nhole seam the thread gripper 3 must be set in t h e precise
gripping position for the upper thread.

–

Turn the handwheel unti l the sewing sequence for the l eft buttonhol e seam is
completed and the handwheel catches.

–

Turn the material support plate with the hand crank about 14 mm farther.
For this measur e t he distance between bearing block 2 and machine arm 1.
If the measured dist ance is e.g. 21.5 mm, th en we get a distance to be s et of 7.5
mm by subtracting 14 mm.

–

Move the bear i ng block 2, by turnin g the hand crank, toward the m achine arm 1.

Opening width

If, in gripp i ng position, the magnet is operated m anually, then the opener lever 9 must
glide onto the front of the opener 7 and open the thread gripper 3.
The opening wi dth of the t hread gripp er should thereby be 3 - 3,5 mm.

–

Set the opener 7 more or l es s i n the path of the opener l ever 9 by turning the
setting screw 6.

Position the thread gripper

The upper thread to be caught must, with lowered and opened thread gripper 3, lie in
the center of its opening.

–

Set the thread gripper by turning the setting screw 5.
The screw 5 is hidden in the illustration by the lever.

Timing of the closing

The closing of the thread gripper 3 should only occur shortly before reaching the lowest
position of the thread catcher.
At the end of the slewing movement o f the thread catcher in the di rection of the needle
the pin 8 should have moved past the upper thread approx. 2 mm.
The timing of the closing i s determined by the opener 7.

–

Loosen screws 4.

–

Set the opener 7.

Opener higher = earlie r closing
Opener lower = later closing

–

Tighten screws 4 again.

–

Check the timing of closing by slow manual lowering of the magnet.

91

5.5.5 Switches for the Upper Thread Catcher Contr ols

b1

1

b4

ATTENTION !

Before commissioning the machine all switches must be
set as described below.

Switch b4

Safety switch b1 is bypassed by the operation of switch b4.
The machine, wi th
In the end position t h e switching piece 1 must turn on the switch b4 and hold i t

operative.

–

Bring the machine i n i ts end position (see chapter 2.3).
The end position is reached when the cloth clamps are automatically opened.

–

Set the switching piece 1 under the material support plat e and switch b4 on the
control cu rve housing accordingly.

open cloth clamps,

can only be star t ed in its end position.

92

1b3 2 3 45

Switch b3

After the sewing in of the upper thread end in the right buttonhole seam switch b3
determines the timing of the raising of the thread catcher.

The upper thread end sho ul d be held as lo ng as possible.
Thereby the switching roller 2 must have fallen from the switching piece 3 before the
clamping piece 4 of th e thread catcher can run onto th e clamp shackle 5.

This corres ponds to a ma chine positi on shortly before ent ering in the buttonhole eye.

–

Loosen screws 1.

–

Set switch b3.

–

Tighten screws 1 again.

93

2b1 b2 1

Switch b2

After the trimming of the upper thread switch b2 operated by cam 1 determines the
timing for lowering the thread catcher.

Cam 1 is connected to the length setting slide.
With the setting of a different buttonhole length the correct switch timing is thus set

automatically.

–

Just before endin g the left butto nhole seam turn the handwheel until it cat c hes. The
sewing drive turns off.

–

Turn the mat erial suppo rt plat e with the hand crank abou t 6 mm farth er.
At this time switch b2 should be o perated by cam 1.
The thread catcher lowers.

–

Adjust switch b2.

–

Correct the switch timing after a trial run, if necessary.
The upper thread must be c aught about 2 m m behind pin 2.

94

1

b1

Switch b1

Safety switch b1 is d i rectly unde r t he clamp fram e 1.
It is to prevent the machine being turned on with the cloth clamps open.

–

Switch b1 mu st, with open cloth cla m ps, be open.
With the cl oth clamps c l osed it must b e closed.

–

Align switch b1 to the clamp frame 1 so that the above mentioned switching
functions are assured during the whole advancing movement of the materi al
support plate (with material in place).

95

1

4

10 b3 7 b 5 3 b2 b 1

13

13

2

2

b10

b10

5

5

11 L1 12 6 b4

96

5.6 Attachment

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug.
The attachment of the upper thread catcher may only be
conducted with the machine turned off and only by trained
skilled personnel.

5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor

The designation numbers affixed to the cables and position numbers in these
instructions are indentical wi th the cable numbers in the enclosed hook-up diagram
558 10296 and in the circuit diagram 558 10295.

–

Lay the cables 2 and 3 through the holder tube 12.

–

Connect the cores of the cables to the two outside terminals (1 and 4) of the
switches b1 and b2.

–

Fasten the switches b1 and b2 to angle 13.

–

Lay the cables 1 and 4 through the holder tube 11.

–

Connect t he cores of cable 1 to magnet plug 10.
The terminal with the ground symbol remains free.

–

Connect the cores of the cable 4 at switch b3 to the terminals "Normally open" (3)
and "Common" (1).

–

Pull the cable brackets of cable 7 off of the connects in the wi ring dist ributor L1.
Since the but ton b5 is already solder ed on the freed cable end must be fed through
the holder tube 11 from above.
Push the cable brackets back onto the contacts (1 and 5).

–

Connect t he cores of cable 6 to the two outside te rminals (1 and 4) of t he switch b4.

97

1

4

10 b3 7 b 5 3 b2 b 1

13

13

2

2

b10

b10

5

5

11 L1 12 6 b4

19 20

11

13

14

15

16

98

17

5.6.2 Laying t he Wiring

12

21

–

Pull the hand crank 17 from the shaft end.

–

Loosen nut 1 6 (

–

Loosen nut 1 3.

–

Pull off the high-spe ed wheel 15 with the drive bush 14.

–

Attach the holder tu be 11 with ca bles 1, 4 and 7 to t he cover plate.

–

Reattach the high-speed wheel 15 again and tighten nuts 13 and 16.
Set a clearance of 1 mm between the latches (see Service Instructions 558).

–

Replace hand crank 17 again and let catch.

–

Mount angle 20 on the machine ho using under t he screws 21.
Thereby do not remove the baffle.

–

Mount the triangle plate 19 with distributor L1 on angle 20.

–

Fasten holder tube 1 with a hose clampto the machine housing.

–

Lay the cables 2 an d 3 to the r i ght.

ATTENTION

: lefthand thread)

20

(Continu ation see next page)

99

b1 21 b2

b4

22 23

–

Fasten angle 21 wi t h switches b1 and b2 to the support 22.

–

Attach the cable clips.

–

Mount switch b4 to the out side of the c o ntrol curve housing.

–

Secure the cable 6 with a clamp.

–

Mount op erator 23 for switch b4 centered in its slot u nder the mat erial support
plate.

6

100

5.6.3 Contro l Unit

1

2

–

Mount the control unit 2 under the table.

–

Lay the cable 1 from the wiring distri butor to the control unit 2 (plug b10) and aatch
to the table with a clamp.
The laying of the cable must be conducted with the machine head tilted up.

–

Connect t he mains lead and connect or lead to the motor as per the hook-up
diagram.

ATTENTION

After connecting the sewing procfedure may only be turned
on if all setting have previously been made according to
Chapter 5.5.

101

5.6.4 Mounting Switch b3

b3

1

2

In the parts set there are 2 switching cams for the different sub-classes:

Sub-class Switching cam

-221301 , -251301 straight switching cam

-231391 , -241291 milled switching cam

-211241 milled switching cam
The milling must be deepened

–

Loosen and remove cover plate 2.

–

Mount the appropriate switching cam 1 to the machi ne plate.

–

Mount switch b3 with angle 3 to the cover plate 2.

–

Reattach cover plate 2.

–

Set switch b3 (see chapter 5.3.5).

102