Ausgabe / Edition: 04/2006Printed in Federal Republic of GermanyTeile-Nr./Part.-No.: 0791 540001
540 - 100
Manual, complete
Contents
Operating Instructions
Installation Instructions
Service Instructions
Interconnection-diagram
9890 540001 B
Software version
A04.1
B04.1
Foreword
This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar
with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in
accordance with the recommendations.
The instruc ti o n m an ual contains i m po rt a nt i nf orm ation on how to
operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation
of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and
down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.
The instruction manual is intended to complement existing national
accident prevention and environment protection regulations.
The instruc ti o n m an ual must alway s be available at the
machine/sewing unit.
The instruction manual must be read and applied by any person that is
authorized to work on the machine/sewing unit. This means:
–Operation, i ncl u di n g e qu i pp i ng , t r ou bl e s ho ot i ng du r ing the work
The user also has to assure that only authorized personnel work on
the machine.
The user is o bl i g ed to c he ck th e m ac h i ne at l ea s t o nc e pe r shi f t f or
apparent da ma ge s and to immedia tl y r e po r t a ny c h an ge s ( inc l u di n g
the performanc e i n se r vi c e), wh i c h im pa i r th e sa fe ty.
The user comp an y mu s t e ns u re that the machi n e i s o nl y o pe r at ed i n
perfect working order.
Never remove or disable any safety devices.
If safety dev i c e s ne ed to be removed for equi pp i ng , r e pa i ri ng or
maintaining, the safety devices must be
remounted directly after completion of the maintenance and repair
work.
Unauthorized modification of the machine rules out liability of the
manufacture r fo r da ma ge res u l ti n g f r om th i s .
Observe all safety and danger recommendations on the machine/unit!
The yellow -and-black str i pe d surfaces desig na t e pe rma ne nd danger
areas, eg danger of squashing, cutting, shearing or collision.
Besides the recommendations in this instruction manual also observe
the general safety and accident prevention regulations!
General safety instructions
The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause
bodily injuries or damages to the machine.
1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the
instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate
training.
2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and
instructions of the motor supplier.
3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of
the machine without the safety devices is not permitted. Observe
all the relevant safety regulations.
4. When gauge parts are exchanged (e.g. needle, presser foot,
needle plate, feed dog and bobbin) when threading, when the
workplace is left, and during service work, the machine must be
disconnected from the mains by switching off the master switch or
disconnecting the mains plug.
5. Daily servicing work must be carried out only by appropriately
trained persons.
6. Repairs, conversion and special maintenance work must only be
carried out by technicians or persons with appropriate training.
7. For service or repair work on pneumatic systems, disconnect the
machine from the compressed air supply system (max. 7-10 bar).
Before disconnecting, reduce the pressure of the maintenance
unit.
Exceptions to this are only adjustments and functions checks
made by appropriately trained technicians.
8. Work on the electrical equipment must be carried out only by
electricians or appropriately trained persons.
9. Work on parts and systems under electric current is not permitted,
except as specified in regulations DIN VDE 0105.
10. Conversion or changes to the machine must be authorized by us
and made only in adherence to all safety regulations.
11. For repairs, only replacement parts approved by us must be used.
12. Commissioning of the sewing head is prohibited until such time
as the entire sewing unit is found to comply with EC directives.
It is absolutely necessary to respect
the safety instructions marked by these signs.
Danger of bodily injuries !
Please note also the general safety instructions.
ContentsPage:
Foreword and general safety instructions
Part 1: Operating Instructions Class 540-100
1.Product description
1.1Designated use ................................................5
The Dürkopp Adler 540-100 is a CNC double lockstitch buttonhole
machine with stepping motor technology for the sewing of flat form
linen button holes in light to medium weight material. Maximum
buttonhole length is 65 mm and maximum buttonhole width is 6 mm
(equipment dependent).
Including a knife for all cutting lengths, longitudinal or transversal
setting possible, fine adjustment of the buttonhole with the push of a
button, integrated direct DC drive.
20 Buttonhole – each sequence can be programmed with a
maximum of 20 buttonholes
–
Programmable sewing revolution to a max. of 4000 stitches/min
–
Soft start
–
Bobbin capacity meter
–
Daily quantity meter
–
Multi test functions
–
Voltage rating: 1 x 190 - 240V 50/60Hz
1
1.1Designated use
The DÜRKOPP ADLER 540-100 is an automatic sewing machine
designed for sewing buttonholes in light to medium-heavy material.
Such material, which is generally made of textile or synthetic fibres, is
used in the clothing industry. This sewing machine can also be used to
produce so-called technical seams. In this case, however, the operator
must assess the possible dangers which may arise (with which
DÜRKOPP ADLER would be happy to assist), since such applications
are on the one hand relatively unusual and, on the other, they are so
varied that no single set of criteria can cover them all. The outcome of
this assessment may require appropriate safety measures to be taken.
Generally only dry material may be sewn with this machine. The
material may b e no thicker than 4 mm when compressed by the
lowered upper material sewing basket.
The material may not contain any hard objects. The machine may only
be operated with finger and eye protection. The seam is generally
produced with sewing threads of gauge up to 65/2 Nm (synthetic
threads with or without cotton covering). Before using any other thread
the possible dangers arising must be assessed and appropriate safety
measures taken if necessary. This machine may be set up and
operated only in dry, well-maintained premises. If it is used in other
premises which are not dry and well-maintained it may be necessary
to take further precautions (which should be agreed in advance - see
EN 60204-31: 1999). As manufacturers of industrial sewing machines
we proceed on the assumption that personnel who work on our
products will have received training at least sufficient to acquaint them
with all normal operations and with any hazards which these may
involve.
5
1.2Sub classes
540-100
For the sewing of raised-form or flat-form linen buttonholes in light to
middle weight material, with pneumatically steered thread tensioner for
flat form sewing and a second pneumatically switchable /
programmable thread tensioner for raised form sewing. Buttonhole
length max. 70 mm, buttonhole width max. 6 mm. A knife for all cut
lengths.
2.Technical data
Machine head:Class 540-100
Needle system:
Needle thickness:
Threads:
Stitch type:
Stitch number:
Double stitch distance:
Sewing foot stroke:
Buttonhole length :
Buttonhole width:
Cut length:
Power rating:
Operating pressure:
Air consumption:
Rated voltage:
System 265 with slightly rounded head
70 – 100 (dependent on equipment )
Synthetic thread and synthetic thread with cotton covering
up to 65/2 Nm
Double lockstitch ( 304 )
Max. 4000 RPM (adjustable)
0,2-3mm
12 mm
6 - 70 mm (dependent on equipment)
3 - 6 mm (dependent on equipment)
6-65mm
1,3 kW
6 bar
apprx.4 NL per working cycle
1 ~ 230 V, 50/60 Hz
1~ 190 - 240 V, 50/60 Hz
Frame:
Work height:
Weight:
Rated noise level :
6
1060 x 620 x 1250 mm (L x B x H)
780 - 880 mm (Top edge of table top)
ca. 100 kg (with frame)
ca. 70 Kg (without frame)
Lc = 79 dB (A) Emission value per workplace according to
DIN 45635-48-B-1 (sewing cycle 3.6 s ON and 1.0 s OFF).
Buttonhole width:4 mm
Cutting length:17 mm
Speed:4.000 min
Stitch length:0.6 mm
Fabric:G1 DIN 23328 two-ply
-1
3.Operating the machine head
3.1Needle threading
Caution: Danger of injury !
The needle should only be threaded when the sewing automat is
switched off.
- Thread needle according to diagram
1
Picturethreadingtheneedle
7
3.2Winding the hook thread
1
2
3
Threading the hook thread is independent of sewing operation.
–
Put the thread on the thread stand.
–
Thread the hook as shown in the picture.
–
Put the empty bobbin onto the bobbin winder 1.
–
Wind the hook thread clockwise about 5 times around the bobbin
core.
–
Swing winder lever 2 towards spool and click in.
The thread will be wound on.
–
Winder lever 2 ends the spooling event when the bobbin is full.
–
After spooling snap out the bobbin thread from thread clamp 3.
3.3Changing the bobbin
Caution: Danger of injury !
The bobbin should only be changed when the sewing automat is
switched off.
Remove empty bobbin.
–
Open bobbin case lid.
–
Flip up the clip 5 and remove the top of the bobbin housing with
bobbin.
–
Remove the bobbin from the top of the bobbin housing.
8
5
Threading the bobbin
–
Place the full bobbin in the bobbin housing top, whereby the bobbin
has to turn in anti-clockwise direction when the hook threader is
pulled.
–
Pass the hook thread through the slit 6 and under the spring.
–
Dependent on chosen buttonhole the hook thread has to go
through slit 9 for raised-form buttonholes and slit 10 for flat-form
buttonholes.
1
Setting the hook thread tension
–
Set the hook thread tension by turning screw 12 so that the bobbin
housing slowly sinks with its own weight when the hook thread is
held tight.
–
Flat-form buttonholes will require a higher tension.
Fitting of bobbin housing
–
Put the bobbin housing top along with the bobbin on the bobbin
housing bottom, make sure that the clip 5 audibly snaps into place.
–
Close bobbin case lid.
9
3.4Changing the needle
Caution: Danger of injury !
Switch off at main power switch ! Only change the needle when the
sewing automat is switched off !
1
–
Loosen screw 1.
–
Pull needle form the needle bar.
–
Insert the new needle to the stop in the bore of the needle bar.
–
Set the needle so that the needle scarf lies on the backward facing
side of the knife.
–
Tighten screw 1.
CAUTION !
If the needle thickness is changed, the distance between the hook
and the needle may need to be changed.
10
3.5Changing the knife
Caution: Danger of injury !
Switch off at main power switch ! Only change the knife when the
sewing automat is switched off !
CAUTION !
Ensure that the lifted basket has a minimum distance of 1mm between
the upper thread scissors and the bottom knife edge.
2
3
1
Knife removal
–
Loosen screw 2.
–
Remove knife 3.
Knife insertion
–
Insert new knife and set it right at the top.
–
Tighten screw 1.
Note!
If the cut does not occur in the middle of the buttonhole or not parallel
to the buttonhole seam, the knife needs to be readjusted.
Instructions for service 540-100, Chapter: Knife adjustment.
11
3.6Checking the knife height
Rule:
The knife point is needed only when diving into the material. The knife
point should not leave the throat plate during the cutting procedure.
CAUTION !
Ensure that the lifted basket has a minimum distance of 1mm
between the upper thread scissors and the bottom knife edge.
Note !
When a knife is sharpened, its length will be shorter.
With the insertion of the sharpened knife the knife height may
need to be corrected.
Adjusting:
–
Position the material under the clamp and start the sewing process.
–
Stop the sewing process during the cutting process on the reverse
buttonhole seam stitch by pushing the pedal backwards.
–
Make the slit on the throat plate visible by pulling the material a
little away from the clamp.
–
Turn the hand wheel in the direction of rotation until the knife has
reached its highest position to the throat plate.
–
In this position 0.2mm of the knife point should remain dipped in
the throat plate slit.
–
Knife height adjustment: Loosen screw 1.
Push the knife as far as needed until the c orrect knife position has
been reached.
Re-tighten screw 1.
–
Loosen screw 3.
–
Push stop 2 right up to the knife
–
Re-tighten screw 3.
–
End the sewing process by pushing the pedal backwards.
12
3
2
1
3.7Thread tension
1
2
Thread tension 1
The tension s erves the purpose of sewing flat-form tacks and
buttonhole seams.
The tension is always effective and opens only with thread cutting.
1
Thread tension 2
The thread tension can be switched on and off. The complete tension
of thread tension 1 and thread tension 2 generate raised-form tacks
and buttonhole seams. The selection can be freely programmed for
each buttonhole section of a buttonhole.
The tension is only effective if programmed and opens during thread
cutting.
Check:
–
Thread the needle and hook thread with different colored yarn.
–
Make a trial seam.
–
For the flat parts of the buttonhole the cross-over point of the
thread should be in the middle of the material.
Setting: Change the thread tension 1
–
For the raised parts of the buttonhole the cross-over point of the
thread should be on the top side of the material.
Setting: Change the thread tension 2 until the seam pattern is
regular.
With the correct setting, in the flat buttonhole parts the upper thread
and in the raised buttonhole parts only the looper thread will be visible
on the material top side.
In this operating manual only the functions of the keys and the
parameter changes that the operator can make are listed.
4.1Control panel
Through the operating panel the control is programmed and the
functions for the respective seams are set. This occurs partly through
direct pressing of the corresponding key or through parameter
adjustment. The input of parameters occurs in programming mode “P”.
The parameter and the corresponding values are shown on the display.
In order to avoid inadvertent changes of parameters, the operation of
the control panel is sub-divided into several levels (operator,
technician, equipper)
The operator (seamstress) can directly access his/her level.
Access to other levels is only possible after the input of a code number.
1
15
4.1.1Control panel elements
KeyFunction
When no input panel is activated:
–
–
When an input panel is activated:
–
–
When an input panel is activated:
–
–
When an input panel is activated:
–
Change to the higher level menu.
In the main menu, change between the buttonhole programs within
a sequence.
Change between the digits tenths, units and tens.
Change lines within the menu. The active line appears white on
black.
Increase or decrease the value of the corresponding digit by 1 or
with functions having several options change between the options,
e.g. “Buttonhole seam tension on” and “Buttonhole seam tension
off”.
Activate the input panel. The value can be changed by using “ñ”
and “ò”keys.
The set value will be accepted
–
Change from a submenu back to sewing mode.
–
Resolve a thread breakage – repair mode, the basket drives to the
end position, raises and releases the material
–
After stopping the sewing procedure the basket drives to the end
position, raises and releases the material
When an input panel is activated:
–
An input is discontinued. The previous value remains valid.
–
The control changes from sewing mode to programming mode. The
buttonhole parameters can be changed in this mode.
–
The control changes from either the sewing mode or programming
mode to the sequence programming mode.
–
The control changes from the sewing mode to the technician mode.
This mode can only be activated by entering a code. In this
operating condition basic machine parameters can be set,
diagnosis and calibration programs can be started
16
4.2Changing parameter values
4.2.1Numerical values
Numerical values can be altered in the following w ays:
–
–
–
–
–
–
4.2.1Parameter selection
With the arrow keys ñ and ò choose the line in which the value
needs to be changed.
Press the OK key.
The curser blinks under the position of the value to be changed.
With the arrow keys ï and ð change between the values.
With the arrow keys ñ and ò increase or decrease the chosen
value.
With parameters that can not be arbitrarily changed, by pressing of
the arrow keys ñ and ò another possible parameter is shown on
the display.
Press the OK key.
The set value will be accepted.
If the set value is not to be accepted, press the ESC-key.
The original value or setting will be reestablished.
With some parameters several choices are available.
The parameter can be changed in the following way:
–
With the arrow keys ñ and ò choose the line with the parameter to
is be changed.
–
Press the OK key.
–
With the arrow keys ñ and ò change between the possibilities. The
respective parameter is shown.
–
Press the OK key. The set value or parameter will be accepted.
–
If the set value or parameter is not to be accepted, press the
ESC-key.
The original value or parameter setting will be reestablished.
1
17
4.3Main menu
SymbolParameterMeaning
Buttonhole number
N1
Thread tension
N2
Cut length
N3
Speed
N4
Selection of the buttonhole to be sewn
- Program number 1 to 50 contains
buttonhole programs. Program number 51
and 52 contain free contour sewing
programs.
- The preprogrammed form of the chosen
buttonhole is shown in the left half of the
display.
- Additionally an info window is shown with
some buttonhole specific values:
- Cut length
- Intermediate fabric
- Buttonhole seam stitch length
- Buttonhole width
Selection of the submenu for changing the
thread tension values. Only visible when
the electric thread tension control is
activated
- Selection of buttonhole cut length
from 6 – 65mm
- The setting is dependent of the buttonhole
number.
- Selection of sewing speed for the buttonhole
to be sewn from von 200 - 4000 RPM.
The setting is dependent of the buttonhole
number.
- If the set sewing speed is less than the soft
start speed a cautionary warning is
displayed and the soft start is switched off.
- The high speed that is here selectable can
be set in the technician level.
Soft start
N5
Daily quantity c ounter
N6
Hook thread counter
N7
Repair mode
N8
Soft start switch on and off
- Number of soft start stitches and their
sewing speed can be preset in the
technician level.
The daily quantity counter counts the number
of sewn buttonholes.
- By pressing the “OK”- key twice, the daily
quantity counter will be reset to zero.
Display of the current hook thread counter
state (when active) and selection of the
submenu for the changing of the initial value
and for the switching on and off of the hook
thread counter.
Repair mode.
18
4.4Hook thread monitoring
Hook thread monitoring mode of operation:
Hook thread monitoring is carried out by counting the buttonholes.
With the insertion of a full bobbin the hook thread counter is set to a
predetermined value. This value is subtracted by one with each
complete cycle. When the value 0 is reached the operator receives an
information message.
There should be some remaining thread on the bobbin.
Note
This principle only functions when the same amount of bobbin
thread is used per buttonhole or sequence. Changing frequently the
cut length, buttonhole form or buttonhole parameter changes the
amount of bobbin thread used per buttonhole.
4.4.1Hook thread counter adjustment
Select the submenu “Hook thread counter”
–
–
With the ñ and ò keys choose in the main menu the line “Hookthread counter”.
Press OK-key.
The submenu “Hook thread counter“ is displayed.
1
Submenu “Hook thread counter” displayed parameters:
Current hook thread counter value
N7.1
Sets the display in the main menu to the initial value indicated in N7.2
below.
–
With the ñ and ò keys select the relevant line.
–
By pressing the OK-key the indicated value in the main menu will
be set to the initial value.
–
The display changes automatically back to the main menu.
Initial value
N7.2
Total number of possible buttonholes with the remaining thread on the
bobbin.
–
Select the relevant line with the ñ and ò keys.
–
Press the OK-key.
The curser blinks under the position of a numerical value.
–
Move between the digits with the keys ï and ð.
–
Increase or decrease the digit value with the keys ñ and ò.
–
Confirm with the OK-key.
–
Choose line N7.1 with the arrow keys ñ and ò
–
By pressing the OK-key the indicated value in the main menu will
be set to the initial value.
–
The display changes automatically back to the main menu.
19
4.5Soft start on /off
Hook thread counter on and off
N7.3
The function of the hook thread counter is either switched on or off.
–
Select the relevant line with the ñ and ò keys.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the parameter On or Off by using the the arrow keys ñ and ò.
The main menu will indicate no parameter with the hook thread
counter switched off.
–
Select the “Soft start” in the main menu with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the parameter On or Off by using the the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
Note !
The number and sewing speed of the soft start stitch can be
preset in the technician level.
If a main sewing speed is less than the soft start sewing speed,
the soft start will be automatically switched off.
4.6Sequences
4.6.1General
Single buttonhole mode
One buttonhole can be selected from a total of 50 preprogrammed
buttonhole programs. Memory locations 51 and 52 can be used for free
sewing contours.
This buttonhole will be sewn until another buttonhole is s elected.
Sequence mode
The seamstress will be in a position to sew a sequence of different
buttonholes without having to push a key on the control panel.
20 different sequences can be created and saved in the memory.
·
Each sequence can contain up to 20 buttonholes.
·
In principle all buttonholes can be selected in one sequence.
·
Note
A plausibility check of the individual buttonhole parameters is first
made when the sequence is selected in the sewing mode!
20
4.6.2Switching the sequence mode on / off
Switching t he sequence mode on or off
–
Press the S-key.
The control panel changes to the menu for the programming of
buttonholes sequences.
–
With the arrow keys ñ and ò select the relevant line
–
Press the OK-key.
–
With the arrow keys ñ and ò choose between on(sequence mode)
or off (single buttonhole mode)
–
Confirm by pressing the OK-key.
–
To return to the main menu press the ESC-key.
4.6.3Select a sequence in the sequence mode (Main menu)
After switching on, the top line of the display will appear white on
black. The last used sewing sequence will be displayed.
Select another sequence
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Moving between the sequences can be achieved by using the
arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Confirm by pressing the OK-key.
1
4.6.4Automatic or manual mode
02 ð 05 ð 12 ð 09Automatic operation
In the sequence that is shown on the display, arrows will be displayed
between the buttonhole forms.
–
After sewing a buttonhole, the control will change automatically to
the next buttonhole form.
–
After sewing the last buttonhole, the control will change again to
the first buttonhole within the sequence.
–
The current buttonhole will be indicated with a bar.
–
The form of each chosen buttonhole will be shown in the left half of
the display.
02–05–12–09Manualoperation
In the sequence that is shown on the display, no arrows will be
displayed between the buttonhole forms.
–
The control does not change automatically between the buttonhole
forms.
–
The current buttonhole will be indicated with a bar.
–
The form of each chosen buttonhole will be shown in the left half of
the display.
Change between automatic and manual operation
–
Choose the relevant line in which the current sequence is
displayed using the arrow keys ñ and ò
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Change between the two operational modes using the arrow keys
ñ and ò.
–
Confirm by pressing the OK-key.
21
Select another buttonhole to be sew n within the sequence
Selection between the different programmed buttonholes is always
possible when the sewing menu is displayed
–
The next or previous buttonhole is selected within the displayed
sequence.
4.7Programming of sequences
Up to 20 buttonhole sequences can be programmed.
Each sequence can contain up to 20 buttonholes.
4.7.1Programming a single sequence
Select program menu sequence
–
–
Press the arrow keys ï or ð.
Press the key “S” on the control panel.
The control panel changes to the buttonhole programming
sequence menu.
Press the ESC-key to leave this menu.
Selection of the sequence number
–
Select the line for choosing the sequence number with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the sequence number to be programmed with the keys ñ
and ò.
–
Press the OK-key to confirm.
Default example:Buttonhole 1: 1
Buttonhole 2: 0
Programming example: Buttonhole 1: 19
Buttonhole 2: 2
Buttonhole 3: 0
Buttonhole sequence programming
–
Select line “Buttonhole 1:” with the arrow keys ñ and ò
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the desired buttonhole program
(1 to 50) with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key to confirm the selection.
With the confirmation of the buttonhole program a new menu line
appears containing the buttonhole to be programmed next
–
The last line of a buttonhole sequence program always shows the
buttonhole number “Buttonhole X: 0", unless all 20 programs are
occupied.
–
Press the ESC-key to return to the main menu.
22
4.7.2Adding a buttonhole at the end of a sequence
–
Select the last line “Buttonhole X: 0" in the programmed buttonhole
sequence with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the desired buttonhole program (1 to 50) with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key to confirm the selection.
With the confirmation of the buttonhole program a new menu line
appears containing the buttonhole to be programmed.
–
Press the ESC-key to return to main menu.
4.7.3Deleting a buttonhole within the buttonhole sequence
–
Select the buttonhole program line that is to be deleted with the
arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select buttonhole program “0" with the arrow keys ñ and ò
–
Press the OK-key to confirm.
With the confirmation the selected buttonhole will be deleted. Following
buttonholes (if any) will move up.
–
Press the ESC-key to return to the main menu.
1
4.7.4Inserting a buttonhole within the buttonhole sequence
Note
The insertion of a single buttonhole program within a buttonhole
sequence is not possible.
–
Make a note of the programmed buttonholes following.
–
Select the desired line of the programmed buttonhole sequence
with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the desired buttonhole program (1 to 50) with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.PresstheOK-key to confirm the setting.
–
Then alter the following buttonholes according to your notes.
–
Press the ESC-key to return to main menu.
23
5.Buttonhole programming
5.1Composition of a buttonhole
Buttonhole width = Bartack width
Bartack length
Length in front of the cut
Cut length
Length behind the cut
First Bartack
m
a
e
s
e
l
o
h
n
o
t
t
u
b
g
n
i
d
a
e
L
Final Bartack
Cut
Trailing buttonhole seam
24
Buttonhole seam width L
Intermediale material width
Buttonhole seam width R
Stitch distance
Throw width
First bartackFirst bartack to be sewn in connection to the
leading buttonhole seam
Final bartack
Leading buttonhole
seam
Trailing buttonhole
seam
Buttonhole width
Cut length
Cut length
Intermediate material
width
Throw width
Final bartack in connection to the trailing
buttonhole seam
Buttonhole seam from sewing start to the first
bartack
Buttonhole seam between first bartack and
final bartack
Distance between the outer stitches of a
buttonhole
Length of the knife’s cutting edge in mm
Length of the buttonhole to be cut in mm
(=Buttonhole seam length)
1
Distance between the inner stitches of the
leading buttonhole seam and the trailing
buttonhole seam
= Buttonhole seam width
Characteristics
Stitch distance
Length in front of the
cut
Length behind the cut
Leading and trailing
buttonhole seam
Buttonhole width
=Bartackwidth
Bartack
Buttonhole length
Distance between double stitches in the y-axis
Distance between the first bartack and the cut
Distance between the final bartack and the cut
Leading buttonhole seam is symmetrical to the
trailing buttonhole seam with the cut length as
symmetrical axis.
The setting “buttonhole width” automatically
gives the bartack width. The bartack width can
be altered with the corresponding parameters
“offset l” and “offset r” in the bartack menu.
The final bartack length is the same as the first
bartack length if both bartacks are identical.
The bartack length for both is set in the menu
“First bartack”.
The complete buttonhole length is determined
by the cut length + length in front of the cut +
length behind the cut + first bartack length +
final bartack length.
25
5.2Submenu program (general view)
Intermediate material width: Input
Stitch distance buttonhole seam: Input
Buttonhole width: Input
Buttonhole seam tension: Selection
Cutting: Selection
Length in front of the cut: Input
Length behind the cut: Input
Cut correction x: Input
Correction right side: Input
First bartack type: Selection
Bartack stitch distance: Input
Buttonhole number: SelectionBartack length: Input
Cut length: InputWidth offset right side: Input
Speed: InputWidth offset left side: Input
Buttonhole seam parametersNumber of bartack stitches: Input
Starting variants: SelectionBartack tension: Selection
First bartack parameters
Select the submenu for the selection of
buttonhole seam parameters
Selection of the sewing start variants
Select the submenu to adjust the upper
bartack
Select the submenu to adjust the lower
bartack
1
Switching on/off of the double-stitching of the
whole buttonhole (the buttonhole is sewn
twice).
Knitwear sewing
mode
P9
Basting stitches
P10*
Zigzag seams
P11*
Cutting
P12*
úú
Copying from
P13
*) Those programs are only visible, if the P9 (Knitwear sewing mode) is switched on.
ú
M
ê
M
ON / OFF
0…50
Switching the knitwear sewing mode on or off
Selection of the submenu for the setting of the
number of the basting stitches and the display
of the characteristics
Selection of the submenu for the setting of a
second zigzag seam and the display of the
characteristics
Cutting during the last cycle
Cutting during the cycle before the last one
Cutting during both cycles
The buttonhole data of the chosen buttonhole
number is copied into the currently active
buttonhole.
27
5.4Adjusting the cut length
Correcting the buttonhole length (Cut length). The adjustment is
possible in both, the main menu and programming mode.
–
–
–
–
–
5.5Selecting a starting variant
Select a starting variant
The starting variant of the starting stitch serves to ensure the correct
sewing start for different materials and threads. The starting variant is
individually set for each individual buttonhole.
Starting variant A (Standard)
–
Select the line “cut length” in the main menu with the arrow keys ñ
and ò
Press the OK-key.
The curser blinks under a digit value.
Change between the digits with the arrow keys ï and ð.
Increase or decrease the value of the selected digit with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
Press the OK-key to confirm the value.
The starting stitches are flat form s titches.
Starting variant B (Thin material, lining)
–
The starting stitches are flat form stitches. With the use of a cross
stitch the upper thread holds better to the material.
Starting variant C (very thin material)
–
The starting stitches are flat form s titches.
With the use of forward and backward bartack stitches the upper
thread holds better to the material.
Starting variant D (very thin material)
–
Alternative to starting variant C.
Select starting variant:
–
Press P-key.
–
Select the line “Starting variant” with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the relevant Starting variant A, B, C or D with the arrow
keys ñ and ò
–
Press the OK-key
–
Press the ESC-key.
28
5.6Setting buttonhole seam
In the program menu “Buttonhole seam”
Select program menu Buttonhole seam
–
Press the P-key.
–
Select the line “Buttonhole seam” with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the relevant line with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key. The curser blinks under one of the digit values.
–
Change between the digits with the arrow keysï and ð.
–
Increase or decrease the value of the chosen digit with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key to confirm. Press the ESC-key.
The following parameters can be changed for the buttonhole seam section:
Intermediate material
width P4.1
Stitch distance within
the buttonhole seam
P4.2
Buttonhole width
P4.3
Buttonhole seam
tension P4.4
Cutting
P4.5
Length in front of the
cut P4.6
Length behind the cut
P4.7
- 1,0...+1,0 mm
0,3...1,5 mm
1,6...6,0 mm
on;off
on;off
-P6.3...5,9 mm
(1.8 mm - P7.3)5,9 mm
Distance between the inner stitches of the
buttonhole seam.
Distance in the y-axis of a double stitch.
1
Overall width of a buttonhole (outer stitches).
on: additional thread tension on (raised-form)
off: additional thread tension off (flat-form)
on: cutting during the sewing cycle
off: no cutting
1. Correction of the position of the first tack in
relation to the end of the cut
2. Additional buttonhole length in front of the
cut with asymmetrical cutting within the
buttonhole.
1. Correction of the position of the first tack in
relation to the end of the cut
2. Additional buttonhole seam length behind
the cut with asymmetrical cutting within the
buttonhole.
Cut correction x
P4.8
Correction right side
P4.9
-0,5...+0,5 mm
Position of the cut within the buttonhole on the
x-axis.
Correction of the rightsided buttonhole seam
width, only visible with bartack type A (Cross
bartack).
29
5.7Setting bartack
5.7.1Selectable bartack types
ACross tack (horizontal)top
bottom
BRound tack
(to the middle point)
CTaper tacktop
DRound tack (horizontal)top
ECross tack (vertical)top
FCross tack (divided)top
top
bottom
bottom
bottom
bottom
bottom
GEyetacktop
bottom
HSimple tack (bartack)top
bottom
The upper and lower tacks of the tack types A to G can be freely
combined e.g. G eye tack as the top tack and C taper tack as the lower
tack.
The tack type H simple tack (bar tack) cannot be combined.
always together
30
5.7.2Programming menu “Bartack”
Select programming menu “Bartack”
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
According to the selected bartack type the following parameters can be
changed for the bartack section.
Press the P-key.
Select line “upper tack”or“lower tack” with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
Press the OK-key.
Select the desired parameter with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
Press the OK-key.
The curser blinks under a digit of the value.
Change between digits with the arrow keys ï and ð.
Increase or decrease the selected value with the arrow
keys ñ and ò.
Press the OK-key to confirm.
Press the ESC-key.
Number of outer stitches, that will form the
semicircular tack.
on: raised form tack
off: flat form tack
The parameter of the special tack types H
simple tack are changed with the buttonhole
Distance in the y-axis of a double stitch
Total width of the buttonhole
on: raised form
off: flat form
Stitch distance of tacking stitches
Tacking stitch seam resistance
33
6. Knitwear mode
st
1
cycle 2ndcycle
st
cycle 2ndcycle
1
st
cycle 2ndcycle
1
Use the knitwear mode when stretchable material is to be sewn. In the
knitwear mode buttonholes are seamed several times in order to
ensure a higher stability.
It is possible to combine a straight basting stitch with a following single
or double zigzag. It is also possible to choose whether cutting should
take place during the last seam sewing or the one before.
The following modes are available:
–
Combination “1”
Double zigzag
Cutting during the last cycle.
–
Combination “2”
Double zigzag
Cutting during the cycle before the last one.
–
Combination “3”
Basting stitches on
Cutting during the last cycle.
–
Combination “4”
st
1
cycle 2ndcycle
st
1
cycle 2ndcycle
st
1
cycle 2ndcycle3rdcycle
st
1
cycle 2ndcycle3rdcycle
Basting stitches on
Cutting during the cycle before the last one.
–
Combination “5”
Basting stitches on
Cutting during the last cycle and the one before.
–
Combination “6”
Basting stitches on
Double zigzag
Cutting during the last cycle.
–
Combination “7”
Basting stiches on
Double zigzag
Cutting during the cycle before the last one.
34
st
cycle 2ndcycle3rdcycle
1
–
Combination “8”
Basting stiches on
Double zigzag
Cutting during the last cycle and the one before.
6.1 Selecting or switching off knitwear mode
Select knitw ear mode
–
Press the P-key.
–
Select the parameter “Knitw ear” with the arrow k eys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select the setting “on” with the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key to confirm the selection.
While the knitwear mode is activated the following menu points are visible:
P9: Basting stitches
·
P10: Zigzag seams
·
P11: Early cutting (cutting during the cycle before the last one)
·
[Only visible when the seam cycles basting stitch + zigzag >1]
Switching t he knitw ear mode off
–
Press the P-key.
–
Select parameter “knitw ear” with the arrow k eys ñ and ò.
–
Press the OK-key.
–
Select with the arrow keys ñ and ò setting “off”.
–
Press the OK-key.
The knitwear mode is switched off.
1
35
6.2Submenu basting stitches
Seam cycles
P9.10 / 1
Stitch length
P 9.20.3 … 3.0 mm
Number of the basting stitch seam cycles
Stitch length of the basting stiches
Thread tension
P 9.30...100%
6.3Submenu Zigzag
Seam cycles
P10.11 / 2
Stitch length
P 10.20.3 … 3.0 mm
Buttonhole width
P10.31.0...P4.3
Speed
P10.4200 … 4000 RPM
Value of the tread tension for basting stitches.
This parameter can only be selected when
electric thread tension control is available.
Number of the zigzag seam cycles
Stitchlänge of the first zigzag. Only visible
when the number of zigzag seam cycles = 2
The buttonhole width for the first zigzag <_max.
buttonhole width P4.3.
Only visible w hen the number of zigzag seam
cycles = 2
The sewing speed of the first zigzag.
Thread tension
P 10.50...100%
Thread tension
P 10.60...100%
Thread tension for the leading buttonhole seam
of the first zigzag. Only visible w hen the
number of zigzag seam cycles = 2
This parameter can only be selected when
electric thread tension control is available.
Thread tension for the trailing buttonhole seam
of the first zigzag. Only visible w hen the
number of zigzag seam cycles = 2
This parameter can only be selected when
electric thread tension control is available
36
7.Sewing procedure
7.1Normal sewing procedure
0
1
2
0
R
Switching on of the automat
–
Check on the maintenance unit that an air pressure of 6 bar is
present.
–
Switch on the main switch of the automat.
–
The machine software will be loaded.
–
The needle goes to the reference position.
–
The sewing basket goes to the reference position and raises.
–
The automat is ready to sew.
Sewing
–
Position material to be sewn under the raised sewing basket.
–
Press the foot pedal forward to position 1. The sewing basket
descends. Releasing the pedal causes the sewing basket to raise
again.
–
Push the pedal forward to position 2. The sewing procedure will begin.
–
After the sewing procedure the automat goes to the reference
position and the sewing basket is lifted.
–
The sewn material can be removed.
1
7.2Interruption of sewing procedure
7.2.1Interruption by the operator
Interruption by the operator
–
Push the pedal backwards.
The machine stops and the needle is driven up high, the sewing basket
stays down.
When the material has to be removed:
–
Push the pedal backwards again, the automat goes to the
reference position and the sewing basket is lifted.
When the sewing procedure is to be started again
–
Push pedal forwards to position 2.
–
If during the interruption the handwheel has been turned, a
continuation is no more
7.2.2Clearing thread breakage
Thread monitoring
A thread breakage in the upper thread is detected by an electronic
upper thread monitor.
possible.
Thread breakage
–
The automat stops after a thread breakage has been detected by
the upper thread monitor. The knife is switched off, the needle is
driven up high, the sewing basket stays down and goes with the
material to the basket reference position.
The message thread breakage is displayed.
–
The automat now has to be turned off.
37
–
Hook and needle thread can now be threaded or checked.
–
Further measures according to the thread breakage modes
Method A, B or C preset in the technician level (see thread
breakage mode).
–
By pressing the ESC-key the thread breakage mode can be ended.
The automat references, the sewing basket is lifted and the
material is released.
Thread breakage mode
There are three possibilities to clear a thread breakage. The respective
method has to be preset in the technician level.
Method A:
The buttonhole has to be undone and re-sewn.
–
After switching the automat on again, the sewing basket is lifted
and releases the material.
The automat is now available for a new sewing cycle.
Method B:
The buttonhole is completely reseamed.
–
After switching on again the sewing basket stays down. The
material under the sewing basket remains in position.
–
Push pedal forwards to position 2 . Sewing begins.
–
After sewing the automat drives to the reference position and the
sewing basket is lifted.
–
The material can be removed.
The automat is now ready for the next sewing cycle.
Method C:
The buttonhole will continue to be sewn beyond the detected thread
breakage spot.
–
After the automat is switched on again, the sewing basket stays
down. Thus the material under the sewing basket remains in
position.
–
Push the pedal forwards to position 2. The sewing basket proceeds
with the material to the thread breakage spot.
–
In order to reach the position to continue sewing without having to
sew, use the arrow keys ñ and ò.
–
Push the pedal forwards to position 2. Sewing begins.
–
After sewing the machine drives to the reference position and the
sewing basket is lifted.
–
The material can be removed.
The automat is now ready for the next sewing cycle.
The number of stitches that the thread breakage monitor does not
register before signaling an error is set in the technician level. With
the setting stitch number “0", the thread breakage monitor is
switched off.
Remove sewing dust, thread
rests and cutting waste.
Pneumatic system
Check or set air pressure
Check water level in the pressure
regulator.
Clean filter
- Beneath the throat plate
- Sewing basket
- Area under the hook
- bobbin housing
- thread cutter
Water level must not rise to the level of the filter element
2. Screw in drain screw 4 and blow out the water under
pressure.
Through the filter element 2 condensation water and dirt
are expelled. Cut off the machine from the air pressure
system. Screw in drain screw 4. The pneumatic system
of the machine must be without pressure. Unscrew
water trap 3. Unscrew the filter element 2 and wash out
the dirty filter housing and filter element with benzene
(not a solvent!) and blow dry. Reassemble the
maintenance unit and reconnect.
8
8
40
500
Check tightness of systems
42
500
9.2Oil lubrication
Caution: Danger of injury !
Oil can cause skin eruption.
Avoid protracted contact with the skin.
In the event of cotact, thoroughly wash the affected area.
ATTENTION !
The handling and disposal of mineral oils is subject to legal
regulations.
Deliver used oil to an authorized collecting station.
Protect your environment.
Take care not to spill oil.
Check regularly the oil level in both of the supply containers 1 and 2.
The oil level should not drop below the mark “min” on the glass
inspection!
Fill up the oil reservoirs exclusively with lubricating oil DA-10 or an
equivalent oil w ith the following specification:
–
Viscosity at 40°C:10 mm²/s
–
Ignition point:150°C
DA-10 oil can be bought at the sales points of DÜRKOPP ADLER AG
under the following parts numbers: