This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted
document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from time
to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the use of
information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.
Please keep this document!
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE INSTALLING AND
OPERATING YOUR FURNACE.
PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45817A
Printed in Canada 22-04-2016
HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS DROLET WOOD FURNACE
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove, furnace and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all
its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from
this furnace as you build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
When this furnace is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the
risk of fire, follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials
about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new furnace. Failure
to follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It
is important that you follow the installations guidelines exactly.
You may need to obtain a building permit for the installation of this furnace and the
chimney that it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire
department before installation to determine the need to obtain one. We recommend
that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation will
affect your policy.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show
evidence of the date you purchased your furnace. Keep your
sales invoice. We also recommend that you register your
Please see Part 2 for operation, maintenance and troubleshooting instructions.
Please see Part 3 for features and safety instructions.
INTRODUCTION
This furnace uses the same wood burning technology as a high efficiency certified CSA
B415.1-10. This model meets the emissions limits of CSA B415.1-10 Standard.
• We recommend that our woodburning hearth products be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace
Institute®) or in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technical Training) or in Quebec by
APC (Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
BEFORE STARTING THE INSTALLATION, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW
AND MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND THEM. (IF IN DOUBT, CONTACT OUR
CUSTOMER SERVICE AT TECH@SBI-INTERNATIONAL.COM). FAILURE TO COMPLY
WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN HAZARD TO YOUR SAFETY AND
WILL AUTOMATICALLY VOID THE WARRANTY.
Inspect the furnace to make sure that nothing has been damaged in the shipping. Pull out
the tools from the flue pipe and/or exchangers and firebox of the furnace.
IMPORTANT NOTE
FOR, INSTALLATION OF A CENTRAL HEATING VENTILATION SYSTEM, IT IS
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO CONSULT A HEATING SYSTEM VENTILATION
SPECIALIST.
N.B.: STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR POOR
APPLIANCE PERFORMANCES, DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION OF EXHAUST
SYSTEM OR DUCTING.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
1 Regulations and safety warnings covering installation
1.1 Regulations covering furnace installation
CAUTION
FOLLOW LOCAL CODES (IF IN DOUBT, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL HEATING
APPLIANCE RETAILER, YOUR MUNICIPALITY OR YOUR FIRE DEPARTMENT
Installation must be made in accordance with the following standards;
Canada: CSA-B365 - Installation code for solid-fuel-burning appliances and equipment.
CSA C22.1 - Canadian electrical code.
United-States: NFPA 90B - Standard for the installation of warm air heating and air-
conditioning systems. NFPA 70 - National Electrical Code.
1.2 Cautions and warnings covering installation
• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY
OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES
AND/OR WEB SITES).
• AIR DUCTS SERVING A GARAGE SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TO OTHER
PARTS OF A HOUSE AND THE DUCTING SERVING A HOUSE SHOULD NOT BE
CONNECTED TO A GARAGE.
• MIXING OF CHIMNEY COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING FURNACE COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS
CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, FURNACE
BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND
NFPA 90B (USA).
• CONNECT THIS FURNACE ONLY TO A LISTED UL 103 HT OR ULC S629
FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEY FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL OR TO A LINED
MASONRY CHIMNEY CONFORMING TO NATIONAL AND LOCAL BUILDING
CODES.
• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE
ROOM OR SPACE.
• DO NOT STORE NEAR WOOD FURNACE. RESPECT THE PRESCRIBED
CLEARANCE BETWEEN COMBUSTIBLES AND HEAT.
• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
• DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
• DO NOT INSTALL IN ALCOVE.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
2 Authorized and non-authorized configuration
2.1 Authorized configurations in Canada and United States
The wood furnace is the only appliance
connected to the hot air distribution duct
system and air return duct system.
2.2 Authorized configurations in United States only
Parallel installation :
- (A) represents the wood
furnace.
- (B) represents the gas, oil
or electric existing furnace.
- Power input (B) should be
equal to or greater than (A).
- Each furnace must have its
own air return duct system.
- The highest clearances of
(A and B) and hot air
distribution and air return
ducts of must be respected.
- Static pressure of (A) must
be adjusted to 0.20 in. W.C.
(50 Pa).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
(A)
2.3 Non-authorized configuration, Canada and United States
- The hot air duct
installed in the air return of (B).
- The hot air duct (B) must not be
installed in the air return of (A).
must not be
3 Setting up the unit and clearances
To reduce the risk of vibration, the furnace must be leveled in both directions and
supported evenly to ensure stability.
3.1 Unit location
The furnace must be installed in a location:
- Where outside air supply will be sufficient for proper combustion.
- Where connector is as short as possible in order to minimize the use of 90o elbows
and horizontal lengths;
- That ensure a proper installation and safe operation of the appliance;
- Where the owner can ensure cleanliness of the room in the event of negative
pressure or temporarily negative.
- Where room to perform maintenance is sufficient and safe.
3.2 Certification label
N.B.: THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE
INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL APPLIED ON THE UNIT.
Location: You will find the certification label on the back of the appliance.
Information found on the certification label always overrides the information published in
any other publication.
Content of certification label: Model number, serial number, certification agency,
Standards, clearances to combustible material, as well as the main safety cautions.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
3.3 Clearances to combustible material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by safety tests under normal
and even abnormal operating conditions according to procedures set out in standards CSA
B366.1 (Canada) and UL 391 (U.S.A.). Respecting the minimum clearances is mandatory
to prevent risk of fire.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
3.3.1
Clearances with single and double wall pipe
CANADA USA
A 12" (305 mm) 12" (305 mm)
B 18" (457 mm) 18" (457 mm)
C 5" (127 mm) 5" (127 mm)
D 1" (25 mm) 1" (25 mm)
E 72" (183 cm) minimum 72" (183 cm) minimum
F 8" (203 mm) 8" (203 mm)
G*
24" (610 mm) 24" (610 mm)
*Required for maintenance or replacement of components, however a 30" (762 mm)
clearance is suggested.
3.3.2 Cold air return ductwork Clearances
The cold air return system can be connected to a new or to an existing cold air return
ductwork. In both cases, the minimum clearance to combustible material is 0" (0 mm).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
C
D
E
3.3.3 Floor protection
- If the floor is made of non
combustible material, no floor
protector is required.
- If the floor is made of combustible
material, a floor protector is required
(see table below).
A
CANADA USA
18" (457 mm)
From door opening
B N/A (USA only)
FLOOR PROTECTION*
16" (406 mm)
From door opening
8" (203 mm)
From door opening
8" (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)
8" (203 mm) – Note 1 N/A (Canada only)
N/A (USA only) Note 2
*Steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together with
grout. No protection is required if the unit is installed on a non-combustible floor (ex:
concrete).
Note 1: The floor protection at the back of the furnace is limited to the furnace’s required
clearance (A) if such clearance is smaller than 8" (203 mm).
Note 2: Only required under the horizontal section of the connector. Must exceed each
side of the connector pipe by at least 2" (51 mm).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
4 The venting system
WARNING:
DO NOT INSTALL A MANUAL DAMPER ON THIS FURNACE.
CAUTION: BEFORE THE CONNECTOR PIPES ARE INSTALLED, MAKE SURE THAT
THE EXHAUST PIPE AND / OR THE EXCHANGERS OF THE FURNACE ARE FREE OF
ALL ITEMS.
4.1 The chimney
- The furnace must be connected to a factory-built metal chimney that complies with UL
103 HT (USA) or ULC S629 (Canada).
o Strongly recommended inner diameter: 6" (152 mm).
o A chimney having a diameter of more than 7" (178 mm) is permitted, if it allows
the proper venting of combustion gases and that such application is verified and
authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the flue must be
reduced to 6" (152 mm) by the use of a stainless steel liner made for this
purpose.
4.1.1 Factory-built metal chimneys
To be suitable, a factory-built metal chimney also called “high temp” chimney, must comply
with UL 103 HT (U.S.A.) or ULC S629 (Canada).
- Use only components intended for the
brand and model of the chimney you
are using.
- Never substitute parts from other
chimney brands.
- Never fabricate your own components.
- The chimney must be a type suitable
for solid fuel.
- To be safe and effective, the chimney
must be installed exactly in accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Good system design
Inferior system design
Inside chimneys are preferred because
even when no fire is burning, there is
normally upward flow in the system.
Outside chimneys are a problem because
when no fire burns they will go into cold
backdraft if the furnace is installed low in the
house.
4.1.2 Masonry chimneys
The furnace may also be connected to a masonry chimney, provided the chimney
complies with the construction rules found in the building code enforced locally.
- The chimney must have a clay liner.
- If the masonry chimney has a
square or rectangular liner that is
larger in cross-sectional area than a
round 6" (152 mm) flue, it should
be relined with a suitably listed
6" (152 mm) stainless steel liner.
- When passing through a
combustible wall, the use of an
insulated listed thimble is required.
- If a stainless steel jacket (liner) is to
be installed, it must extend
12" (305 mm) to 18" (457 mm)
above the top of the masonry
chimney to favor the draw.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
4.1.3 Minimum chimney height
The top of the chimney should be tall enough to be above the air turbulence caused when
wind blows against the house and its roof.
- The chimney
must extend at
least 3 ft. (1 m)
above the
highest point of
contact with the
roof.
- Extend at least
2 ft. (61 cm)
higher than any
roof line or
obstacle within a
horizontal
distance of 10 ft.
(3 m).
4.2 The connector pipe
Recommended inner diameter : 6" (152 mm).
If an increaser/reducer must be used (max 6" (152 mm) to 7" (178 mm)), it must
be installed as close as possible the chimney.
4.2.1
Best practices and requisites of the installation code
o Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is
desired, the installation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for
Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances and Equipment;
o A flue pipe must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an
attic, roof space, closet or concealed space;
o Minimum upward slope towards the chimney: 1/4 in/ft. (20 mm/m);
o The maximum horizontal run is 10’ (3 m). Do not count the starting elbow;
o All flue pipe joints must be secured with three screws. Failure to secure them to
each other may cause a fire;
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Proper installation
improper installation
CAUSES
RESTRICTION
o Maximum unsupported horizontal length: 3 feet (1 m);
o Galvanized flue pipes must not be used because the coatings vaporize at high
temperatures and release dangerous gases;
o Flue pipes must be at least 24 gauge in thickness;
o The chimney connector must be in good condition;
o Flue pipe joints should overlap 1 1/4" (30 mm);
o Straight up installations need to have either a connector where one end has no
fastener or a telescopic length;
o Removal of the assembly for cleaning should not require that the furnace be
moved;
o The male ends of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that
falling dust and condensation stay inside the pipe;
o A straight flue pipe assembly offers the least restriction to gas flow and results in
stronger draft. Straight assemblies also need less maintenance because there
are no corners to collect creosote;
o The use of 45° elbows is strongly recommended;
o A 90° elbow = 5’ (152 cm), a 45° elbow = 2.5’ (76 cm);
o Never use more than two 90° elbows.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Use 45° elbows where possible, rather than 90° elbows.
Alternative installations with 90° elbow or tee.
5 Hot air distribution and air return system
The Drolet furnace is designed and equipped with a hot air distribution plenum that may
receive 6 to 10, 6" (152 mm) diameter round ducts.
The installer is responsible for the performance of the distribution ducts and the air
return system. It will have a direct effect on the ability of the blower to distribute
heat efficiently throughout the house. The number, size and length of the ducts of
the distribution system and return air will vary depending on the configuration and
characteristics of each house.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
N.B.: The furnace air jacket is not totally airtight. It is normal to detect some air
leaks at the jacket’s joints.
Components provided with the furnace:
10 hot air start-off
adapter (A)
4 lids (B)Type A #10 black
screws (C)
#10 selt-taping black
screws (D)
5.1 Hot air distribution plenum height according to ceiling height
Remember to take into account the 5" (127 mm) clearance to combustibles above the
plenum.
5.1.1 Plenum’s minimum height; (only plenum (B) must be used)
For a minimum ceiling height of 72" (183 cm).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.1.2 Adjustable height of the plenum; (with the plenum extension cut off (A)).
When the ceiling height, measured from the
floor is greater than 72" (183 cm), but less
than 84" (213 cm), it will be possible to cut
the plenum extension (A) of at most
10" (254 mm). The plenum extension (A)
must therefore have a minimum height of
14'' (356 mm).
Warning: The plenum extension (A) should
not obstruct the openings for the hot air
distribution of the plenum (B). The shaded
area represents the maximum cutting of
plenum extension (A).
5.1.3 Adjustable height of the plenum (A and B); (without cutting) 79" (200 cm) to
88" (224 cm).
For ceiling height greater than 84" (213
cm).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.2 Assembling the hot air distribution plenum (A and B).
5.2.1 Assembling the plenum extension (A) by means of 12 screws and corner
reinforcements
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.2.2 Assembling the plenum (B)
Insert the male end of each
panel in the female part of the
adjacent panel.
Secure the assembly by
bending the two metal tabs in
the center of each corner.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Install the cover on the part (B)
of the assembly and secure it
with 16 screws.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
(B)
5.2.3 Assembling the plenum extension (A) to the plenum (B)
Slide plenum
over the plenum
extension (A) to the extent determined in
Section 5.1.
Using 12 self-drilling screws, secure the
plenum (B) to the plenum extension (A).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.3 Installation of the assembled plenum on the furnace
Identify the rear side of the plenum, it
is provided with holes for the
installation of the “RTD” thermal probe.
Also, four holes are aligned with the
fold of the top of the furnace at the
rear side and three holes on the front
side. This allows you to secure the
plenum properly.
Install the assembly on the furnace,
taking care to insert the 4 fold on top
of the furnace inside the plenum.
Using 13 screws, secure the plenum to
the furnace.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.4 Configuration and restrictions of hot air distribution system
5.4.1 Start-off plenum
- The plenum can be adjusted from 67" (170 cm) to 88" (224 cm) depending on the
ceiling height. See Section 5.1: Hot air distribution plenum height according to the ceiling height.
- The start-off plenum must have a minimum height of 18" (457 mm) from the top of the
furnace (X). In this case, use only the upper section of the plenum (the one with the 10
openings).
- The minimum clearance (C) between the top of the plenum and the ceiling is
5" (127 mm).
- The ducts minimum clearance (D) to combustible materials is 1" (25 mm).
- The ducts may pass through a combustible wall maintaining a clearance of 1" (25 mm)
around ducts.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
5.4.2 Installing the start-off adapters
After choosing your output configuration, do the following to install the start-off adapters.
Warning: Use gloves to complete the following steps because the start-off adapters
and caps can be sharp.
1- Cut a notch in the flange of the
adapter (A) and slightly fold down one
side of the flange to facilitate the
installation.
2- Align the notch previously made on
the adapter (A) with the one of the hot
air outlet on the plenum, and then turn
the adapter until the flange is
completely inserted and rotates freely.
Repeat the above procedure for the
other adapters.
5.4.3 Minimum amount of outlets and maximum lengths of ducts
- A minimum of 6 start-off adapters must
be installed on the start-off plenum. The
location of the adapters has no impact
on the distribution of air.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
- Block the unused outlets with the block-off caps (B) and provided screws (D).
FAVOR THE USE RIGID DUCTS BECAUSE THERE ARE LESS RESTRICTIVE TO AIR
FLOW.
- The maximum run of a main duct is 35’ (10.7 m). It must be reduced from 6" (152 mm)
to 5" (127 mm) after 20' (6.1 m) or reduce the main duct by 1" (25 mm) at every two
secondary duct outputs.
- The maximum length of all the main ducts is 180’ (54.9 m).
- The maximum run of a secondary duct is 10’ (3 m).
- The maximum length of all the secondary ducts is 100’ (30 m).
- The finishing grill at the output of a secondary pipe must be made of metal.
The total area of secondary duct outlets must be equal or slightly less than the total area of
the outlets used on the distribution plenum (B).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Example of surface calculation according to the number
of outlets used in the plenum:
Diameter of plenum
outlets (in)
Surface of plenum
outlets (in2)
Number of outlets on
the plenum
Total surface of
plenum outlets used
(in2)
6 28 6 170
The acceptable total area of secondary outlets would therefore be:
Diameter of
secondary outlets
(in)
Surface of
secondary outlets
(in2)
Number of
secondary outlets
Total surface of
secondary outlets
used (in2)
4 12.5 9 112.5
5 19.5 1 19.5
6 28 1 28
The total area of the secondary outlets of this system would be
acceptable because it is equal to or slightly less than the total area
160
of the plenum outlets.
ACCORDING TO THE NATIONAL BUILDING CODE, THE BTU/H PROVIDED BY AN
OUTLET ON THE PLENUM MUST NOT EXCEED 10,250 BTU/H (3kW) AND THE HOT
AIR TEMPERATURE AT THE OUTLET OF A SECONDARY DUCT SHOULD NOT
EXCEED 158 °F (70 °C).
Once your hot air distribution system is installed, make sure to measure the static pressure
in the start-off plenum. Adjust the opening at the end of each of distribution duct with a
shutter until you get a static pressure 0.2" W.C. (50 Pa) at the plenum.
The default blower speeds can be changed depending on the restriction created by the
configuration of your distribution system (see Section 7.3: Blower technical Data).
5.5 Air return system and filter
The installation of an optional air return duct connected to the blower housing will improve
the air circulation throughout the house (see Appendix 3: Optional Fresh air return adapter (AC01392)). The use of the air filter option is also recommended. The filter
option will significantly reduce dust circulation within the hot air duct and will prevent
obstruction of the blower (see Appendix 2: Optional air filters (AC01390, AC01391)).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
6 Combustion air
CAUTION
WARNING: SUFFICIENT COMBUSTION AIR MUST BE AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES;
LACK OF COMBUSTION AIR CONSTITUTES A DANGER.
A CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS REQUIRED IN THE ROOM IN
WHICH THE FURNACE IS INSTALLED.
A fresh air supply may be necessary to prevent solid fuel units from rejecting products of
combustion into the house.
Additional combustion air can be provided following the following methods, provided that
they satisfy chapter 4 of the CSA B365 standard for Canada:
- Direct combustion air supply: oThe HeatPro is not certified to be connected directly to a new combustion
air supply.
- Indirect combustion air supply: o New combustion air can be brought into a pipe located within approximately
12" (305 mm) of the unit. If the pipe is too close to the furnace, it may interfere with
its operation;
o The recommended diameter of the outside air intake pipe is 4" (102 mm);
o Mechanical ventilation system: if the house is equipped with a ventilation system
(air exchanger or heat recovery), the ventilation system may provide sufficient
auxiliary air to the solid fuel unit. Otherwise, the owner should be informed that the
ventilation system may have to be rebalanced by a ventilation technician after the
installation of the solid fuel unit;
7 Electrical connection, adjustment of components and
calibration of the draw
The furnace is fully assembled at the factory and no electrical connection is
required other than plugging the power cord into an outlet.
7.1 Raccordement électrique
The following instructions do not replace those of the local code.
Installation and verification of this appliance must be done by a qualified person.
All wiring from the service panel to the heating unit must comply with the electrical code in
force and all local regulations. It is recommended to feed the furnace with its own electrical
circuit of 15 amps at 120 volts with a breaker (see wiring diagram).
ONLY USE WIRES SUITABLE FOR 167 °F (75 °C) OR MORE.
WARNING
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
7.2 Installation and connection of the “RTD” thermal probe
IMPORTANT: The proper positioning of the “RTD” thermal probe is essential to the proper
functioning of the furnace. Install it in the opening provided for this purpose on the start-off
plenum.
With the plenum extension (A) and the plenum (B)
With 4 self-taping screws
(D), install the metal plate
on the plenum (B) to
block-off the 3 holes.
Make sure the notch
towards the bottom.
Install the RTP probe in
the plenum extension (A).
Secure the RTD probe
with the two screws
provided (C).
Connect the RTD probe
on the furnace with the
connection.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
With plenum (B) only
Using four self-drilling
screws (D), install the
plate supplied with the
furnace on the plenum
(B). Make sure to have
the notch on the plate up.
Install the RTD probe in
the hole of the plenum
(B).
Secure the RTD probe
with two screws (C).
Connect the RTD probe
to the furnace with the
connector.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
7.3 Blower technical Data
The blower speed must conform to the recommendations of the Warm Air Heating and Air
Conditioning National Association and should respect the static pressure ranges in the
warm air plenum of the furnace.
MODEL (DIRECT DRIVE) FLOW
VENT MOT. VIT. (CFM) (°F) (WOOD) INCH OF W.C. (IN)
The draw: The measurement is taken in the exhaust pipe 18" (457 mm) above the
furnace's flue collar with a tube and a pressure gauge (manometer).
- Poor: -0.03" W.C. (7.5 Pa) and under: ignition problems, risk of smoke spillage, low
performance of heat exchangers.
- Ideal: from-0.04" to -0.06" W.C. (10 to 15 Pa): To obtain the optimum performance of
the furnace.
o A barometric draft control is not required.
- Excessive: -0.08" W.C. (20 Pa) : WARNING
This leads to premature wear of the furnace, a situation that is not covered by warranty.
o A draw greater than -0.08" W.C. (20 Pa) leads to uncontrollable fire even if the
air control is in closed position.
o To prevent excessive draft, a barometric control must be installed to control
excessive draft. It must be adjusted to the maximum draft of 0.06" W.C. (15 Pa)
measured at the output of the furnace.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
7.4.1 The use of a thermometer
The first use of a thermometer is to inform the user about the discharge temperature of flue
gases. Without accurate measurement of the draft using a pressure gauge (manometer),
the thermometer will indicate if the temperature is ideal, too low or too high.
The use of e thermometer is therefore an acceptable alternative that can tell if the chimney
is hot enough to generate an adequate draft.
- Use a magnetic thermometer for Single wall connector pipe.
- Use a probe thermometer for Double wall connector pipe.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Optional thermostat installation
Using a thermostat will help you maintain a constant temperature throughout the house. A
fixed wall mounted 24v thermostat is required.
Note: Thermostat manufacturer’s instruction always overrides the information
published in the following section.
Thermostat location
- Must be installed on an inside wall of the
house.
- Where it will be the least affected by
affected by air currents from a hot air
outlet or cold outside walls.
- Must be installed at a minimum of
55" (140 cm) above the floor.
- Must be installed at a minimum of
15’ (4.57 m) from the furnace and must
not receive radiation from the glass
door.
Thermostat wiring
Before installing the thermostat, disconnect
the furnace from the outlet.
Use an 18 AWG 2 strand wire.
The terminal is located at the back on the
rear right side of the furnace when facing it.
It is marked with the letter “T”.
Loosen the two screws in the middle of the
terminal bloc and insert the wires in the
terminals. Tighten the two screws.
Open the thermostat housing and connect
the wires following the manufacturer's
instructions.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
Example of thermostat wiring:
Connect one wire to "HR" and
the other wire to "W". The red
jumper can be left in place. For
more information, refer to the
manufacturer's instructions.
This furnace may be installed in
parallel as an add-on to an
existing furnace in the USA only.
Such an installation requires that
the furnace’s controls be
interlocked to prevent both
furnaces from heating at
maximum rate simultaneously.
In order to interlock the furnaces,
connect the wires from the
existing furnace’s thermostat,
normally R and W, to the terminal
identified “INTERLOCK” located
next to the thermostat terminal of
the HeatPro.
When the wood furnace receives
the signal from the existing
furnace’s thermostat calling for
heat, it will disconnect the
damper motor, sending the wood
furnace in low burn until the call
for heat from that thermostat is
satisfied.
After the existing furnace’s
thermostat is satisfied, the wood
furnace will return under the
control of its own thermostat.
Use in thermostat mode
To ensure the proper operation of the air inlet damper while connected to a thermostat, the
manual control switch must be maintained in the closed position. However, when a
thermostat is connected to the furnace, it is still possible to use the manual control switch
to open the air damper if desired. Even though you chose to control the furnace with a
thermostat it is still possible to use the manual control switch to open the air intake damper
if desired.
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Appendix 2: Optional air filters (AC01390, AC01391)
The filter option (AC01390 – cardboard frame or AC01391 – washable aluminum) allows to
filter dirt before the distribution of warm air in your installation in addition to protecting your
blower. This system can be installed on any side of the blower box located behind the
furnace on the most accessible side of your installation. This option includes the filter, the
filter holder, two caps and the screws necessary for the installation.
Clean and replace filters as often as required.
Note: The operation cost is higher when using a dirty filter.
1 filter holder 2 caps 1 filter (15" x 20" x 1")
WARNING: IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED OPERATING THE FURNACE WITHOUT
FILTERS. THIS APPLIES ESPECIALLY TO TEMPORARY HEATING DURING
CONSTRUCTION PERIOD. OPERATING THE FURNACE WITHOUT FILTERS WOULD
ALLOW DUST AND OTHER PARTICLES IN THE AIR TO CIRCULATE FREELY AND
TO PENETRATE INTO THE BLOWER AND MOTOR CARTERS, CAUSING SOME
DEFECTS.
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Appendix 3: Optional Fresh air return adapter (AC01392)
The optional air return adapter (AC01392) can be added to the furnace blower box to
increase the efficiency of your system. This option allows you to take in the fresh air from
the rooms connected to the return system and bring it back towards the furnace to be
heated. This option can be installed on either one of the 3 sides of the blower box.
Complete installation instruction can be found in the instruction booklet provided when
purchasing this option.
1 fresh air return adapter 2 caps 1 filter
N.B.: TO ENSURE ADEQUATE STATIC PRESSURE, THE SYSTEM SHOULD BE
BUILT IN A WAY THAT THE VOLUME OF COLD AIR RETURN IS AT LEAST EQUAL
OR SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN THE VOLUME OF THE HOT AIR DISTRIBUTION.
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PART 2 –
OPERATION, MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
Please see Part 1 for installation instructions.
Please see Part 3 for features and safety instructions.
7.5 How to prepare or buy good firewood
7.5.1 What is good firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the furnace, split to a range of sizes
and stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
7.5.2 Tree species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content.
The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood.
Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North
America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and
yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types
for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild
weather in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are
not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using
softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood
heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more
heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer
lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron furnaces
wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no
longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species
and give the forest a break at the same time.
7.5.3 Log length
Logs should be cut about 1" (25 mm) shorter than the
firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are too long
makes loading the furnace very difficult. The most
common standard length of firewood is 16" (406 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a
maximum of 1" (25 mm) variation from piece to piece.
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7.5.4 Piece size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry
enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t
have the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3" (76 mm) should be
split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (76 mm to 152 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often,
the firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient
stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
7.5.5 How to dry firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood
inserts. Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and
involves lack of heat and a dirty glass door. See Section 9: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•
firewood takes a long time to dry
•
firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the
wood in spring and dry it yourself
•
drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
•
drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
•
small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
•
split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
•
softwoods take less time to dry than hardwood
•
softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being
stacked in the open for only the summer months
•
hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big
•
firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and
wind; it takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
•
firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between 15 and 20% by weight
and will allow your furnace to produce its highest possible efficiency
7.5.6 Judging firewood moisture content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•
cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
•
as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,
•
bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood
sounds dull,
•
dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
•
split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels
damp, it is too wet,
•
burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
8 Operating your furnace
8.1 Your first fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the furnace are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapours are not poisonous, but
they do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So,
when you first light your furnace, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to
ventilate the house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach
the curing temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you
have burned one or two very hot fires.
It is recommended to burn it at high rate and ventilate the building until the odours
disappear. Once the paint smell disappears, your furnace is ready for serious heating.
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8.2 Lighting fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favourite method to light fires.
Whatever method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire
that starts fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are
three popular and effective ways to start wood fires.
8.2.1 Conventional fire starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to
bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspaper and
place them in the firebox. Next, place 10 or so
pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper. This
kindling should be very thin; less than 1" (25 mm).
Next, place some larger kindling pieces on the fine
kindling. Open the air control and light the
newspaper. If you have a tall, straight venting
system you should be able to close the door
immediately and the fire will ignite. If your venting
system has elbows or an outside chimney, you
may need to leave the door closed but unlatched
for a few minutes as the newspaper ignites and
heat in the chimney produces some draft. Once
the fire has ignited, close the door and leave the
air control open.
A conventional kindling fire with
paper under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE FURNACE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY
OPEN DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add firewood pieces until you have a fire
of the right size for the conditions.
8.2.2 The top down fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first,
it does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build
up the fire gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can
provide up to two hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if
the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next,
place 4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2" to 3" (51 mm to 76 mm) diameter) on
the base logs at right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split
kindling on the second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff
them in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper
knots by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage
of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as
the fire burns from top to bottom.
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8.2.3 Two parallel logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the
logs. Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across
those, log cabin style. Light the newspaper.
8.2.4 Using fire starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these
starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid
chemicals. Follow the package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold
firebox to start a fire.
8.3 Maintaining wood fires
8.3.1 General advice
Wood heating is very different than other forms of heating.
Do not expect steady heat output from your furnace. It is normal for its temperature to rise
after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household
routines. For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as
when doing housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as
when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals
and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same
size as it was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output
by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and
preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps
to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating.
The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the furnace’s loading door while the
wood is burning. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak
from the furnace when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if
the chimney connector has 90 degree elbows and if the chimney runs up the outside wall
of the house.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR
CONTROL FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR
SLOWLY.
IMPORTANT
WHEN RELOADING, MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE AIR INLETS LOCATED AT THE
BOTTOM OF THE DOOR INSIDE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER FREE OF ASH.
OPENING PROCEDURE FOR THE LOADING DOOR
TO MINIMISE THE RISK OF SMOKE SPILLAGE, CRACK THE DOOR OPEN ABOUT
AN INCH (25 MM) AND WAIT ABOUT 10 SECONDS BEFORE OPENING IT WIDE TO
ALLOW STABILISATION OF THE PRESSURE INSIDE THE FURNACE.
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8.3.2 Raking charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. Do not operate
your furnace at too low a setting. Keep the air inlet opened long enough during the fire
start-up to prevent the fire from smouldering, which could stain the glass. You will find
most of the remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake
these coals towards the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the
coals. First, it concentrates them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox
and where they can ignite the new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be
smothered by the new load of wood. If you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the
new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so
that it will ignite the new load.
8.3.3 Firing each new hot load
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass.
Close the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the
firebox is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing
each load of wood hot accomplishes a few things:
•
drives the surface moisture from the wood,
•
creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
•
heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
•
heat the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
DO NOT LEAVE THE FURNACE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING
FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the furnace and the chimney,
the result will be a surge of heat from the furnace. This heat surge is welcome when the
room temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already
warm. Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool
off a little before loading.
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8.3.4 Control of the air supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can close the air supply for a steady
burn.
If the flames get very small and almost disappear when you close the air, you have closed
the air too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be. With good fuel and correct air
control use, the flames should slow down, but should stay large and steady, even as the
air supply is closed.
When the furnace is using a thermostat, it is the thermostat that controls the air inlet
damper. When the thermostat calls for heat, the damper opens and the combustion is
stirred up. When the furnace gets hot enough, the blower motor is activated.
The following figure shows the position of the air inlet damper (A) according to the position
of the air inlet damper switch (B).
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8.3.5 Building different fires for different needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the furnace’s heat output to the heat
demand. Your house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a
comfortable temperature. If you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat
the space or turn the furnace down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here
are some suggestions for building fires to match different heat demand.
8.3.5.1 Small fires to take the chill off the house
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and
load them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” (76 mm) to 4” (102 mm)
in diameter. After raking the coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to
corner in the firebox and lay two more across them in the other direction. Open the air
control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good
for mild weather when you are around to tend the furnace and should provide enough heat
for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species so
there will be less chance of overheating the house.
8.3.5.2 Long lasting low output fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense
heat. In this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the
pieces are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully
char the log surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming
brightly before leaving the fire to burn.
8.3.5.3 High output fires for cold weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily
and brightly. This is the time to use your biggest pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put
the biggest pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A
densely built fire like this will produce the longest burn your furnace is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down
too much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving
the fire to burn.
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MAXIMUM
8.3.5.4 Maximum burn cycle times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the
consumption of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the
fire lasts for roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal-bed
phase during which there is little or no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your
furnace, including both the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of
things, such as:
•
firebox size,
•
the amount of wood loaded,
•
the species of wood you burn,
•
the wood moisture content,
•
the size of the space to be heated,
•
the climate zone you live in, and
•
the time of year.
•
the time cycle for the thermostat to call for heat.
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you
are likely to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
BURN TIME
<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f. 5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours
8.3.6 Control of the air inlet damper
Always turn the furnace on with the air inlet damper open. Once the temperature of the
wood, the combustion chamber and the chimney is stable, close the air inlet damper to
obtain a more efficient combustion.
To control the air inlet damper, use the switch on the side of the control box located at the
back of the furnace.
Reducing the combustion air will do two things. First, the combustion rate will decrease,
which will spread the thermal energy of the fuel over a longer period of time. In addition,
the velocity of the exhaust gas decreases, which allows better heat transfer in the heat
exchanger and chimney.
The closure of the main air intake reduces the intensity of the flames which indicates the
achievement of optimum performance. If the flames diminish in intensity at a point where it
almost disappears, it is an indication that the air inlet damper was closed too soon or the
firewood used is dry enough. If the wood is dry enough and the air control is closed when
the unit is at a stable temperature, the flames will decrease but remain strong and stable to
provide efficient heating.
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8.4 Additional fresh air supply
When the furnace and the chimney are completely cold, it may be necessary to provide
fresh air by opening a door or a window for a few minutes while lighting the fire.
Take note that a house constructed or renovated in order to be airtight may lack the
volume of fresh air necessary for the proper combustion of a solid-fuel heating appliance.
In such a case, when starting up the fire, do not operate appliances that evacuate air
outside the house, such as:
• Range hood
• Air exchanger
• Clothes dryer
• Bathroom blower
• Ventilated central vacuum system
Exhaust blowers that are in a fuel storage room should be installed so as not to create
negative pressure in the room where the solid fuel appliance is located.
A fresh air supply may be necessary to prevent solid fuel units from rejecting products of
combustion into the house. The indications used to determine if an additional fresh air
supply is necessary are not appropriate for all the situations. When in doubt, it is
recommended installing a fresh air supply.
A fresh air supply may be needed if:
- Solid fuel units present anomalies, such as irregular draft, smoke return, bad
combustion, and/or reversed draft (whether there is combustion or not);
- Existing solid fuel units such as a stove or fireplace release odours, heat badly, cause
smoke returns, or reversed draft (whether there is combustion or not );
- The opening of a window, even slightly, in calm weather (windless), eliminates every
problem mentioned above ;
- The house is equipped with a tight vapour barrier and adjusted windows, and/or is
equipped with an interior air mechanical evacuation device ;
- There is excessive condensation on the windows in winter; and
- The house is equipped with a ventilation system.
If, according to these symptoms or other similar ones, there is insufficient combustion air, it
is necessary to ensure an additional combustion air supply (see Section 6: Combustion Air).
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8.5 Manual or thermostat control
From the factory, the opening and closing of the air inlet damper is manually activated by
the means of a switch located at the rear of the furnace. The switch has two positions;
opened and closed.
Position of the air control rod when the switch in the “closed” position.
For added comfort, the installation of an optional wall thermostat is recommended since it
will open the air inlet damper when the room temperature is below the set point of the
thermostat and will close the air inlet damper as the desired temperature is reached (see
Appendix 1: Optional Thermostat Installation).
If the heat sensors detect any overheating in the air jacket of the furnace, the air inlet
damper will close automatically regardless of the type of control used.
8.6 Ash drawer
Your furnace is equipped with an ash drawer to collect ashes produced by the combustion
of wood. The ash drawer is provided with two (2) wing nuts to hold the door in a close
position. Operating the furnace with the ash drawer open may seriously damage the
furnace. The drawer must be emptied regularly.
8.7 Prolonged power outage
To reduce the risk of overheating during a prolonged power outage (more than 10
minutes), it is recommended damper is closed. If your furnace is equipped with the
optional filter, remove the air filter to improve the circulation of air around the combustion
chamber of the furnace. Do not load the furnace more than 50 percent of its capacity to
prevent the risk of overheating,
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9 Maintaining your wood heating system
9.1 Furnace maintenance
Your new furnace will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it
correctly. Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air
tubes, will wear over time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts
with original parts (see Section 11: Exploded diagram and parts list). For firing each
load hot to begin a cycle as described above will not cause premature deterioration of the
furnace. However, letting the furnace run with the air control fully open for entire cycles can
cause damage over time. The hotter you run the furnace throughout burn cycles, the more
quickly its components will deteriorate. For that reason, never leave the furnace
unattended while a new load is being fired hot.
9.1.1 Ash removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full-time heating. Do
not let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the furnace is relatively cool,
but there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the furnace and prevent it
from coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the furnace and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay
hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other wastes shall not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A
WOODEN DECK. ALWAYS LEAVE THE CONTAINER ON A NON-COMBUSTIBLE
FLOOR.
9.1.2 Cleaning door glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is
dry enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty
deposit will form on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and
can be easily removed when the furnace is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel
and then drying. Never try to clean the glass when the furnace is hot.
In spring and fall the furnace will cycle less often. You may see some light brown stains
forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the combustion
has been incomplete and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the
weather is mild, you may find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a
continuous fire. Use the technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off
the house.
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If you do get brown stains on the glass, you can remove them with special cleaners for
wood furnace glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your furnace’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and
how well you are doing in operating the furnace. Your goal should be clear glass with no
brown stains. If you continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel
and operating procedure needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete
combustion of the wood, which also means more smoke emissions and faster formation of
creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket
around the glass. Visit your furnace retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and
follow the Section 9.1.4: Replacement of the glass and gasketsinstructions for
installation.
• Check the glass regularly to detect any crack or damage. Replace damaged glass
immediately; do not use the furnace with a broken glass.
9.1.3 Door adjustment
In order for your furnace to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal
with the firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically making sure to
obtain an air-tight fit. Air tightness can be improved with a simple latch mechanism
adjustment. If the adjustment is not sufficient, replace the door gasket with a new one (see
Section 9.1.4: Replacement of the glass and gaskets).
Door adjustment procedure
1. Unscrew the locking pin (B) and nut (A) from the door (see image below).
2. To increase the pressure of the door on the gasket, turn the handle. Counter-clockwise,
to reduce the pressure of the door on the cord, turn the handle clockwise to clockwise.
3. Finally, screw-in the locking pin (B) about 1/4" (6 mm) deep and make sure you lock it
with the nut (A).
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9.1.4 Replacement of the glass and gaskets
After a year or more of use, the gasket of the door will compress and become hard which
can allow air to pass. You can check the air tightness of your door gasket by closing and
locking the door on a piece of paper. Check all around the door. If the paper slides easily
anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use a good quality gasket that you can purchase from your dealer. The correct size and
density of the gasket are important to ensure a good seal.
Prior of removing the defective glass, you need to remove the door gasket. Inspect the
door gasket before it is reinstalled to make sure it is in good condition. We suggest
replacing the door and glass gasket at the same time as their level of wear over time is
similar.
For the following steps, wearing gloves and safety glasses are recommended for handling
seals can irritate the skin and the glass can be sharp.
- To replace the door gasket, use the steps 1 to 3 and 10 outlined below;
- To replace the glass, use the steps 1 to 6 and 9 to 10 outlined below;
- To replace the glass gasket, use the steps 1 to 10 outlined below;
1. Remove the door (F) and place it on a stable work surface, handle down.
2. Using pliers, remove the door gasket (A).
3. Using a scraper or a small flat screwdriver, remove the adhesive left in the gasket
grove in the door then clean the surface using a commercial vacuum.
4. Use a Phillips screwdriver or a power drill to remove the screws (B) that holds the glass
retainer (C).
5. Remove the glass frame (D)
6. Remove the glass (E) (or pieces of glass if it is damaged) and clean the inside of the
door frame.
7. Remove the old glass gasket.
8. Install the new gasket on the glass. Remove a part of the paper covering the gasket
adhesive. Center the gasket on the edge of the glass so that when folded and glued,
the gasket is equal on both sides. Do not stretch the gasket during installation. Remove
a majority of the paper, turn the glass to facilitate and complete the installation of the
gasket. When you return to the starting point, cut the gasket so that the ends overlap
by about 1/2" (13 mm).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
9. Install the glass (E) and glass frame (D) and centering it in the frame of the door and
install the glass retainer frame (D) and glass retainers (C) taking care not to over
tighten the screws (B). Note that the two main causes of glass breakage are unequal
position in the door and screws too tight.
10. Install the new door gasket (A). To do this, use about 1/4" (6 mm) of adhesive to the
bottom of the groove that holds the gasket in the door. Then lay the new gasket starting
from the center of the hinge side and taking care not to stretch the gasket during
installation. Leave about 1/2" (13 mm) of gasket exceed the frame of the door. Once
jointed, push the fibers protruding towards the inside of the groove in the adhesive.
Install the door and let dry for 24 hours before using the furnace.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the furnace if the
glass is broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
9.1.5 Cleaning and painting the furnace
Do not attempt to clean or paint the furnace when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces
can be wiped down with a damp cloth. Plated or enameled surfaces may be scratched by
abrasive cleaners. To maintain the finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth
to clean plated or enameled surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood furnace a brand new
look by repainting it with heat-resistant or enamel finish paint. Before painting, roughen the
surface with fine sand paper, wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of
paint. For best results, use the same paint that was originally used on the furnace, which is
available in spray cans. See your dealer for details.
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9.1.6 Heat exchangers care
Heat exchangers must be cleaned thoroughly at the end of every heating season. During
summer, the air in basements is damper and with minimal air circulation within the furnace,
it can mix with creosote and/or sooth deposits in the exchangers to form an acid that could
accelerate the corrosion process and induce premature decay of the steel. Corrosion
damages are not covered under warranty.
The smoke pipe and exchangers must be inspected regularly during the heating season.
Access to the exchangers is easy and does not require tools;
1. Unscrew the wing nut (B) and remove the washer (C) on the exchanger access door
(see Detail B).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
2. Move the baffle of the combustion chamber forward (see Detail A).
3. Use the tool provided, clean the three exchanger pipes (see Detail C).
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4. Dirt in the lateral exchangers (1 and 3) falls into the combustion chamber at the rear.
5. Dirt in the central exchanger (2) will be removed from the front or the rear of the
furnace. If you remove dirt from the central exchange to the back of the furnace,
remove the black pipe connector in order to dispose of the dirt.
6. Then, check that the baffle is clear of ash and reposition it in its original position
towards the back of the combustion chamber.
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7. Close the exchanger access door and secure it using the washer (C) and wing nut (B)
(see Detail D).
8. If you have performed maintenance from the back part of the furnace, reinstall the
black pipe connector and secure it with three screws.
9.2 Chimney and chimney connector maintenance
9.2.1 Why chimney cleaning is necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney connector and chimney, forming a
combustible deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting
system, it can ignite when a hot fire is burned in the furnace and a very hot fire can
progress to the top of the chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best
chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form.
When you avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear, creosote
builds up more slowly. Your new furnace has the right characteristics to help you to burn
clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the chimney.
9.2.2 How often should you clean the chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It
is important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to
the new furnace until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms
slowly in your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each
year.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
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CAUTION: IT IS RECOMMENDED CLEANING THE HEAT EXCHANGERS, FLUE PIPE
AND CHIMNEY THOROUGHLY AT THE END OF THE HEATING SEASON IN ORDER
TO PREVENT CORROSION DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS, CAUSED BY
ACCUMULATED ASH.
9.2.3 Cleaning the chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and dangerous job. If you don’t have experience
cleaning chimneys, you might want to hire a professional chimney sweep to clean and
inspect the system for the first time. After having seen the cleaning process, you can
decide if it is a job you would like to take on.
The most common equipment used are fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and stiff
plastic brushes. The brush is forced up and down inside the chimney flue to scrub off the
creosote.
The chimney connector assembly should always be cleaned at the same time the chimney
is cleaned.
CAUTION: Operation of your furnace without the baffle may cause unsafe and hazardous
temperature conditions and will void the warranty. NOTE: Before installing the firebrick,
check to ensure that none are broken or damaged in any way. If so, have the damaged
ones replaced. Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace any broken or
damaged ones with new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney is facilitated by the
removable baffle.
9.3 Smoke pipe inspection
• The smoke pipe must be inspected regularly during the heating season.
• The pipe must be examined carefully to detect any defect or damage.
• The pipe can be reassembled if no defect is detected and the defective pipe must be
replaced immediately.
• INSPECT FLUE PIPES, FLUE PIPE JOINTS, AND FLUE PIPE SEALS REGULARLY
TO ENSURE THAT SMOKE AND FLUE GASES ARE NOT DRAWN INTO, AND
CIRCULATED BY, THE AIR-CIRCULATION SYSTEM
9.4 Blower motor maintenance
Periodic cleaning of the blower housing and louvers as well as blower and blower blades
using a vacuum cleaner is necessary in order not to affect performance and cause
overheating of the latter.
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10 Troubleshooting
PROBLEMS CAUSES SOLUTIONS
Heating inefficient during the
first combustions. Lack of
draft.
Furnace burns well, warm air
plenum is very hot but there is
not much heat coming out in
the room.
Furnace consumes a lot of
wood.
Improper adjustment of the
barometric damper (open too
wide). Chimney flue restriction
(too long. 90o elbows).
Improper installation of the
ducts, low static press0ure,
unbalanced system (too many
warm air outlets and not
enough fresh air return).
The damper switch always left
on. The thermostat which
controls the damper is
continuously activated or is too
close to a source of cold air.
Damper not properly adjusted.
House not insulated enough.
The ash plug and drawer are
not tightly closed. Furnace too
small for the surface to be
heated. Unbalanced ventilation
system, very little heat where
the thermostat is located.
Adjust the damper, minimize
the smoke pipe length and use
45o elbows.
Rearrange the ducting to
respect the minimum static
pressure of 0.20 in. W.C. (50
Pa)
If manually controlled, install a
wall thermostat. Relocate the
thermostat. Rebalance the
ventilation system in order to
increase the air flow in the
room where the thermostat is
located.
A lot of creosote, moderate
heat output.
Furnace heats a lot but the
warm air duct does not get hot.
Primary air inlet damper never
opens.
Wet wood, lack of draft.
Barometric damper not
properly adjusted. Restriction
in the furnace or chimney.
Wet wood or low-grade wood.
No static pressure.
Unbalanced ventilation system.
Furnace is not plugged-in.or an
electrical component is faulty.
Use dry wood. Adjust the
barometric damper. Clean the
chimney, flue pipe and the
furnace exchangers.
Use dry wood. Rearrange the
ventilation system correctly.
Make sure the furnace is
plugged-in a functional power
outlet. Test and replace if
necessary, control switch,
thermostat, and damper motor.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
tube into the rear right channel hole.
with the key of the left air channel hole.
10.1 Installation of secondary air tubes and baffle
1- Starting with the rear tube, lean and
insert the right end of the secondary air
Then lift and insert the left end of the
tube into the rear left channel.
2- Align the notch in the left end of the tube
Using a “Wise grip” hold the tube and
lock it in place by turning the tube as
shown in Detail B. Make sure that the
notch reaches the end of the key way.
3- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other
secondary air tubes.
4- To remove the tubes use the above
steps in reverse order.
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Note that secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (B).
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model Type of tube
HEATPRO
Front ► 77 holes of 0.147”
Middle front ► 77 holes of 0.161”
Middle rear ► 77 holes of 0.180”
Rear ► 77 holes of 0.194”
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11 Exploded diagram and parts list
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IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement
parts for your furnace, please provide the model and the serial number. We reserve the
right to change parts due to technological upgrades or availability. Contact an authorized
dealer to obtain any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved
parts can result in poor performance and safety hazards.
# Item Description Qty
1 30100 BLACK HEX NUT 1/4 - 20 1
2 30128 SOCKET SET SCREW 1/4"-20 X 1 1/4" 1
3 30429 3/8'' NICKEL COIL HANDLE 1
4 SE24025 CAST IRON DOOR WITH GASKET AND HANDLE 1
5 AC09151 REPLACEMENT HANDLE KIT 1
6 PL51351 GLASS RETAINER FRAME BRACKET 4
7 30124 SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/16'' TRUSS QUADREX ZINC 6
8 AC06725 GLUE AND 3/4" X 7' WHITE DOOR GASKET KIT 1
9 SE56287 REPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 10 7/8" X 15 1/8" 1
10 AC06400 3/4" (FLAT) X 6' BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET 1
11 PL56285 GLASS RETAINER 2
12 30416 WING NUT 3/8"-16 3
13 30205 ZINC WASHER ID 13/32" X OD 13/16" 1
14 30168 HINGE PIN 5/16 DIA. X 1 1/4" L 2
15 30055 HINGE PIN RETAINING RING 5/16" ID X 0.512" OD 2
16 SE56800 HEAT EXCHANGER ACCESS DOOR ASSEMBLY 1
17 AC06000 SILICONE AND 1/2" X 8' BLACK DOOR GASKET KIT 1
18 SE56792 PRIMARY AIR DAMPER ASSEMBLY 1
19 PL56356 PRIMARY AIR DEFLECTOR HEAT SHIELD 1
20 PL56793 DAMPER CONTROL GUARD 1
21 PL56780 ASH LIP 1
22 30060 THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 X 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC 6
23 SE56781 ASH DRAWER 3
24 28061 CHROME ASH DRAWER HANDLE 1
25 21341 AIR CONTROL PLATE INSULATION 1
26 PL56765 AIR JACKET FLOOR 1
27 PL56769 RIGHT AIR JACKET PANEL 1
28 PL56772 RIGHT SIDE DECORATIVE PANEL 1
29 PL56770 INTERNAL DEFLECTOR 2
30 PL56773 REAR AIR JACKET 1
31 30869 PRIMARY AIR CONTROL ROD 1
32 51000 HONEYWELL 24V DAMPER MOTOR 1
33 SE44096 100 OHM RTD PROBE 38" WIRE WITH CONNECTOR 1
34 PL56784 BLOWER BOX BASE 1
35 30536 LEVELING BOLT 1/4 - 20 X 1'' 2
36 SE56815 FAN ASSEMBLY WITH 1/3 HP DD MOTOR 1
37 30336 RIGHT HOUSING SUPPORT FOR G10 BLOWER 1
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# Item Description Qty
38 30094 HEX SCREW WASHER HEAD 1/4-20 X 3/4" F ZINC TYPE 4
39 30335 BLOWER ANTI-VIBRATION CUSHION 4
40 30109 BOLT HEX 1/4 - 20 X 1" 4
41 51003 1/3 HP 4 SPEED MOTOR FOR G-10 DD 1
42 PL56785 BLOWER BOX CONTOUR 1
43 PL56786 BLOWER BOX TOP 1
44 PL66041 WIRE CHANNEL 1
45 30494 PANDUIT POLYETHYLENE EXTRUSION 0.5
46 44091 ROCKER SWITCH 2 POSITION MSR-8 1
47 SE56810 ELECTRONIC FAN & LIMIT WITH COVER 1
48 PL56798 ELECTRONIC FAN & LIMIT BOARD HEATPRO 1
49 30408 ELECTRONIC BOARD CLIP 7
50 PL56809 ELECTRONIC FAN & LIMIT HOUSING 1
51 60036 THERMOSTAT TERMINAL 1
52 60208 TRANSFORMER 120 V/24 V 20 VA 1
53 60013 POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT 1
54 60008 BLACK NYLON BUSHING 1
55 AC01392 COLD AIR RETURN HOUSING WITH FILTER 1
56 21044 CARDBOARD FRAME AIR FILTER 20" X 15" X 1" 2
57 AC01390 CARDBOARD FRAME AIR FILTER WITH SUPPORT (20" X 15" X 1") 1
58 PL56805 PLENUM TOP PANEL 1
59 PL56804 TOP PLENUM REAR PANEL 1
60 PL56807 TOP PLENUM LEFT PANEL 1
61 PL56806 TOP PLENUM FRONT PANEL 1
62 PL56803 TOP PLENUM RIGHT PANEL 1
63 49090 ADAPTER 6" 10
64 PL56817 TOP PLENUM RTD COVER 1
65 PL56818 BOTTOM PLENUM CORNER REINFORMENT 4
66 PL56801 BOTTOM PLENUM REAR PANEL 1
67 PL56802 BOTTOM PLENUM LEFT OR RIGHT PANEL 2
68 PL56808 BOTTOM PLENUM FRONT PANEL 1
69 PL56768 LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL 1
70 PL56771 LEFT SIDE DECORATIVE PANEL 1
71 29000 4'' X 8'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 19
72 29015 4'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 9
73 29005 6" X 8 1/4" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 4
74 21343 4'' X 8'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK WITH HOLE 3
75 PL36231 6" X 7 1/2" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK 2
76 PL36119 3 1/2" X 8" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK 1
77 PL36059 CUT BRICK 4" X 8 7/8" X 3 3/8" X 3 7/8" 1
78 PL36084 4" X 4 1/2'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 2
79 PL36233 3 1/2" X 6" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK 2
80 PL36232 4" X 8 3/4" X 1 1/4" X 1/2" X 3 ¼" REFRACTORY BRICK 1
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
# Item Description Qty
81 24096 ROUND CAST IRON ASH PLUG 1
82 PL56760 FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1
83 PL56761 MIDDLE FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1
84 PL56763 MIDDLE REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1
85 PL56764 REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1
86 21220 C-CAST BAFFLE 19 3/4" X 11 3/8" X 1 1/4" 2
87 PL48170 HEAT EXCHANGER SCRAPER 1
88 PL48173 POKER 1
89 AC05959 METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 342 g (12 oz) AEROSOL 1
90 SE45817 INSTRUCTION MANUAL KIT FOR HEATPRO 1
91 PL56814 PLENUM OUTLET BLOCK-OFF PLATE 5
92 PL56775 AIR JACKET TOP 1
93 PL56774 REAR AIR DEFLECTOR 1
94 30334 LEFT HOUSING SUPPORT FOR G10 BLOWER 10-458-085 1
95 30867 CLEVIS YOKES 1
96 SE56822 ROD RETAINER 1
PART 3 – FEATURES AND SAFETY
Please see Part 1 for installation instructions.
Please see Part 2 for operation, maintenance and troubleshooting instructions.
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[*]
[*]
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(5)
(6)
(9)
(10)(11)
(12)
(13)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(10)
(11)
(12)
(13)
12 General information on HeatPro (DF03000)
12.1 Appliance performance
(1)
Fuel type Dry cordwood
Recommended heating area
1,500 to 3,500 ft² (139 à 325 m²)
Firebox volume 4.9 ft³ (0.139 m³)
Maximum burn time
Maximum input capacity (dry cordwood)
Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)
12 h
421,000 BTU
19,243 BTU/h to 67,069 BTU/h (5.6 kW to 19.6 kW)
Nominal heat output at 15lb/ft³ fuel loading density 100,000 BTU/h
Average overall efficiency
Delivered heat output rate (min. to max.)
Average delivered efficiency
Optimum efficiency
Average particulate emissions rate
Average CO
N/A
Average electrical power consumption
[*]
Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney
78.9 % (HHV)
16,109 BTU/h to 54,578 BTU/h (4.7 kW to 16.0 kW)
64.8 % (HHV)
85.8%
0.735 lb/mmBTU (0.316 g/MJ)
360 Wh
85.0 % (LHV)
70.2 % (LHV)
draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heating area for a given
appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature
considering that the space configuration and the presence of heat distribution systems have a significant
impact in making heat circulation optimum.
Values are as measured per CSA B415.1-10, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum input capacity. Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the
standard at 10 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 18% and 28%.
Input value at 10 lb/ft³ fuel loading density and dry energy value of 8,600BTU/lb.
Overall: Radiated and delivered heat together at10lb/ft³ fuel loading density over one total burn cycle.
Efficiency based on delivered heat when allowing cycling from high to low burn to simulate thermostat
demand.
Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
Delivered: Remotely provided to other rooms through ducting at 10 lb/ft³ fuel loading density over one
total burn cycle.
Efficiency based on radiated and delivered heat when allowing cycling from high to low burn to simulate
thermostat demand.
Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
Based on delivered heat output.
This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
Carbon Monoxide. Based on overall heat output at 10 lb/ft³ fuel loading density.
Unless stated otherwise, measures were taken directly at the main power source and include all
electrical components present in the appliance.
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12.2 General Features
Maximum log length 24" (610 mm) north-south**
Diameter of the flue collar 6 in. (152 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in. (152 mm)
Recommended chimney diameter 6 in. (152 mm)
Required type of chimney CAN/ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F)
Baffle material C-Cast
Alcove installation Not approved
Mobile home installation‡ Not approved
Appliance weight (without option) 719 lb (326 kg)
Shipping weight (without option) 819 lb (371 kg)
Blower Included
Filter Non-Included: 15 in x 20 in x 1 in
Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-10
USA standard (safety) UL 391
Canadian standard (safety) CAN/CSA B366.1
** East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the tips of the logs.
‡
Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US department of Housing and Urban
Development describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as followed; buildings built
on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In
Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is
completed or substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and
connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard
.
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12.2.1 Technical data HeatPro
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12.3 The benefits of low emissions and high efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Brand Model firebox
mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional wood furnace. But there is more to the
emission control technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content
of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your furnace releases all the heat energy from
the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the
firebox allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean
and efficient flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your furnace can only work
properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See
PART 2 –OPERATION, MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING for suggestions on
preparing fuel wood and judging its moisture.
12.4 The SBI commitment to you and the environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to
use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the
environment.
12.4.1 What is your new furnace made of?
The body of your furnace, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever
become necessary many years in the future, almost the entire furnace can be recycled into
new products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coat on your furnace is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components)
is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the
manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC
reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a
binder to form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not
considered hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Lightweight firebrick is made of pumice and cement. Pumice is in fact volcanic rock, a
naturally green product found in the Northwest United States. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is
basically made of raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such
a way to form a glass at high temperatures. Ceramic glass will not remelt in the same way
as normal glass, so it should not be recycled with your regular household products.
Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
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13 Safety information
13.1 Cautions and warnings
• A CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS REQUIRED IN THE ROOM IN
WHICH THE FURNACE IS INSTALLED.
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE
AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR
THE FURNACE OPERATION.
• USING A FURNACE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS
GLASS OR FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION
AND MAY DAMAGE THE FURNACE.
• OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
• OPERATE ONLY WITH THE DOOR FULLY CLOSED. IF THE DOOR IS LEFT
PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAME MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING,
CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.
• WARNING: AN EXCESSIVE DRAFT MAY CAUSE OVERHEATING AND MAKE THE
CONTROL OF THE FIRE DIFFICULT.
• THIS FURNACE IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE
DOOR MAY BE OPEN ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING.
DO NOT LEAVE THE FURNACE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY
OPEN DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL
OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS
FURNACE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE
FURNACE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
• DO NOT BURN:
o GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
o COAL OR CHARCOAL,
o TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
o PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
o FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
o ALL MANUFACTURED LOGS,
o SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR
o RAILROAD TIES.
• DO NOT USE LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A
FIRE.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
• DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS FURNACE.
• DO NOT INSTALL AN AUTOMATIC FEEDER ON THIS FURNACE.
• DO NOT INSTALL A MANUAL DAMPER ON THIS FURNACE.
• THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
• DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
• WARNING: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE FIRING DOOR, THE ASH DRAWER AND
THE ASH PLUG BE KEPT CLOSED WHILE THE APPLIANCE IS IN USE. MAINTAIN
ALL GASKETS, IF ANY, IN GOOD CONDITION; IN CASE OF DETERIORATION,
CONTACT YOUR DEALER FOR A GENUINE REPLACEMENT GASKET.
• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY
OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES
AND/OR WEB SITES).
• MIXING OF CHIMNEY COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING FURNACE COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS
CONDITIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDERS
INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND
NFPA 90B (USA).
• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE
ROOM OR SPACE.
• DO NOT STORE NEAR THE WOOD FURNACE. RESPECT THE PRESCRIBED
CLEARANCE BETWEEN COMBUSTIBLES AND HEAT.
• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
• DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME
• DO NOT INSTALL IN AN ALCOVE
• THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE
INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL APPLIED ON THE UNIT.
• NO PART OF THE FURNACE OR FLUE PIPE MAY BE LOCATED CLOSER TO
COMBUSTIBLE THAN THE MINIMUM CLEARANCE FIGURES GIVEN.
WARNING: Respect the local codes (when in doubt, consult your local dealer).
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
13.2 Smoke detector
We highly recommend the use of a smoke detector. It must be installed at least 15 feet
(4.57 m) from the appliance in order to prevent undue triggering of the detector when
reloading.
13.3 Chimney fire
A Chimney fire will happen when the flame from an uncontrollable fire ignites the sooth
and creosote deposits in a neglected venting system. It will often happen when burning
cardboard, branches or small dry pieces of wood. The first signs of a chimney fire are:
1.
A rumble.
2.
Smoke pipe becomes extremely hot.
3.
Sparks or even flames shoot out of the chimney
In the event of a chimney fire, first call your local fire department and water the roof
in the vicinity of the chimney.
Make sure that the furnace door and the air intake damper are closed (if need be, lower
the thermostat setting and CLOSE the barometric draft damper manually if one is
installed). Close also the switch on the control box.
In the event of uncontrollable fire (caused by a wrongful operation or excessive chimney
draft), follow the same procedure as in a chimney fire but you must then OPEN the
barometric draft damper manually if one is installed.
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HeatPro Furnace Installation and Operation Manual
•
•
DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original retail purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty covers brand new
products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from the factory. Proof of purchase (dated bill of
sale), model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to your DROLET dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation, lack of
maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, venting problems or an
underestimated heating area are not covered by this warranty. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined
by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power
failure.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused by the use of
unauthorized or other than original parts voids this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must perform the installation in
accordance with the instructions supplied with this product and all local and national building codes. Any service calls related to an
improper installation is not covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the claim. Returned
products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the purchaser
will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified
technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. All parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to
the table below.
The manufacturer, at its discretion, may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of the defect. The
manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by refunding the wholesale price of any
warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall, in no event, be responsible for any uncommon, indirect, consequential damages
of any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts
benefiting from lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to products purchased after March 1st, 2015.
WARRANTY APPLICATION*
DESCRIPTION
PARTS LABOUR
Combustion chamber (welds only) and cast iron door frame. Lifetime 3 years
Surrounds, heat shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum
extrusions), plating (defective manufacture**), and convector air-mate.
Removable stainless steel combustion chamber components, secondary air
tubes**, deflectors, and supports.
5 years 3 years
5 years N/A
Glass retainers, handle assembly, and air control mechanism. 3 years 1 year
Carbon steel combustion chamber components, vermiculite baffle**, and C-Cast
baffle**.
2 years N/A
Standard blower, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls. 1 year 1 year
Optional blower, paint (peeling**), ceramic glass (thermal breakage only**),
ceramic fibre blankets, gaskets, insulation, and other options.
1 year
N/A
Firebricks. N/A N/A
All parts replaced under the warranty.
*Subject to limitations above. **Picture required.
Labour costs and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on a predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the
wholesale price of the replacement part.
Shall your unit or a component be defective, contact immediately your DROLET dealer. To accelerate processing of your warranty
claim, make sure to have on hand the following information when calling:
Your name, address and telephone number;
• Bill of sale and dealer’s name;
• Installation configuration;
Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
•Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
90 days
N/A
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain an Authorization Number from your DROLET
dealer. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused automatically and returned to the sender.
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