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Installation and Operation Manual
HT-2000
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD STOVE
Safety tested according to ULC S627,
and UL 1482 Standards
by Intertek Testing Services
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this
manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages
arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized
sources.
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45060A
Printed in Canada 18-08-2014
www.drolet.ca
Stove Builder International Inc.
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: (418) 878-3040 Fax: (418) 878-3001
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HT-2000 Installation and Operation Manual
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS DROLET WOOD STOVE
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all
its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from
this stove as you build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute®) or
in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC
(Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
When this stove is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk
of fire, follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials
about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new stove. Failure to
follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It is
important that you follow the installations guidelines exactly.
You may need to obtain a building permit for the installation of this stove and the
chimney that it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire
department before installation to determine the need to obtain one. We recommend
that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation will
affect your policy.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show
evidence of the date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales
invoice. We also recommend that you register your warranty
online at:
http://www.drolet.ca/en/service-support/warranty-registration
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your stove.
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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................... 6
2 Safety Information ..................................................................... 6
2.2 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings ......................... 6
2.1 HT-2000 Specifications .......................................................................................... 7
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You .................................................. 10
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ............................................. 10
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment .............................................. 11
2.4.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of? .................................................................. 11
3 Fuel ............................................................................................ 12
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned .................................................................. 12
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ................................................................ 12
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? ................................................................................... 12
3.2.2 Tree Species ..................................................................................................... 12
3.2.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................ 13
3.2.4 Piece Size ......................................................................................................... 13
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood......................................................................................... 14
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ................................................................. 15
3.3 Manufactured Logs ............................................................................................... 15
4 Operating Your Stove .............................................................. 16
4.1 Your First Fires ..................................................................................................... 16
4.2 Lighting Fires ........................................................................................................ 16
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting ................................................................................. 16
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................... 17
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs ............................................................................................. 17
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................ 17
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires ........................................................................................ 17
4.3.1 General Advice ................................................................................................. 17
4.3.2 Ash Removal ..................................................................................................... 18
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal ............................................................................................... 19
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................ 19
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ............................................................................ 20
4.3.6 Building Different Fires for Different Needs ....................................................... 21
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5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ............................... 23
5.1 Stove Maintenance ............................................................................................... 23
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance ................................................................................ 23
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass ......................................................................................... 23
5.1.3 Door adjustment ................................................................................................ 24
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket ............................................................................... 25
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .................................................. 25
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Stove ....................................................................... 26
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance .................................................. 26
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ............................................................... 26
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? .................................................... 27
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ....................................................................................... 27
PART B - INSTALLATION ............................................................. 28
6 Safety Information ................................................................... 28
6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings .................................................. 28
6.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation ............................................................... 29
7 Clearances to Combustible Material ...................................... 30
7.1 Location of the certification label .......................................................................... 30
7.2 Clearances to Walls and Ceiling........................................................................... 30
7.3 Floor protector ...................................................................................................... 32
7.4 Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely ..................................................... 33
7.4.1 Shield Construction Rules ................................................................................. 33
7.4.2 Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages ...................................................... 35
8 The Venting System ................................................................. 36
8.1 General ................................................................................................................ 36
8.2 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................... 36
8.2.1 Factory-built Metal Chimneys ............................................................................ 37
8.2.2 Masonry Chimneys ........................................................................................... 38
8.3 Minimum Chimney Height .................................................................................... 38
8.4 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House ...................................... 39
8.4.1 Why inside chimneys are preferred ................................................................... 39
8.4.2 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space .......................... 40
8.5 Supply of Combustion Air ..................................................................................... 40
8.5.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses ................................................................... 40
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8.6 Installing the Chimney Connector ......................................................................... 41
8.6.1 Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector ................................................. 42
Appendix 1: Installing the Pedestal ............................................ 44
Appendix 2: Installing Trims ........................................................ 45
Appendix 3: Installation and Use of Optional Air Circulation
Fan (AC02050), and Thermodiscs (AC02055 and
AC05530) ................................................................ 47
Appendix 4: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes ...................... 49
Appendix 5: Baffle Installation .................................................... 50
Appendix 6: Exploded Diagram and Parts List .......................... 52
DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY .................................. 55
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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
2 Safety Information
2.2 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR STOVE
OPERATION.
• USING A STOVE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY
DAMAGE THE STOVE.
• OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
• OPERATE ONLY WITH DOOR FULLY CLOSED. IF DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN,
GAS AND FLAME MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM
BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.
• THIS STOVE IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE DOOR
MAY BE OPEN ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. DO NOT
LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED
DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
• DO NOT BURN:
o GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
o COAL OR CHARCOAL,
o TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
o PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
o FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
o SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD, OR
o RAILROAD TIES.
• DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS STOVE.
• THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
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2 General Information
2.1 HT-2000 Specifications
Fuel Type Cordwood
Test Standards (safety) ULC S627 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions) EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range* 1,000 to 2,400 sq. ft. (93 to 223 m2)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel)
Optimum efficiency 78 %
Particulate Emissions 3.79 g/h
Test Standard (efficiency) CSA B415.1
Approximate Burn Time 9 to 10 hours
Shipping Weight 486 lb (220 kg)
Firebox Volume 3.7 cu.ft. (0.104 m3)
Maximum Log Length 22" east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter: 6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material C-Cast
Mobile home approved No
60, 175 BTU/h (17.64 kW/h)
95,000 BTU/h (27.84 kW/h)
* Burn time and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,
chimney diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate, fuels and other variables.
** The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air
spaces between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood
firewood to reflect real-world heat output. This stove is not intended to operate at its peak
heat output continuously.
*** East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs.
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2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new HT-2000 wood stove is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the
area it is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower
temperature. This is called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat
homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular
space within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another
heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly
sized and located wood stove. Whole house zone heating works best when the stove is
located in the part of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally
the main living area where the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the
stove in this area, you will get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve
the highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of
your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler.
In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the stove may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric
heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing
and location of the stove, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone.
Three-season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller stoves than houses that
are heated all winter.
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the HT-2000 firebox
mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the
emission control technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content
of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your stove releases all the heat energy from
the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the
firebox allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean
and efficient flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your stove can only work
properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See
Section 3 of this manual for suggestions on preparing firewood and judging its moisture.
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2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to
use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the
environment.
2.4.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of?
The body of your stove, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire stove can be recycled into new
products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coat on your stove is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components)
is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the
manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC
reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a
binder to form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not
considered hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, an earth derived
product. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a
landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is
basically made of raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such
a way to form a glass at high temperatures. Ceramic glass will not re-melt in the same
way as normal glass, so it should not be recycled with your regular household products.
Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
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3 Fuel
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
RAILROAD TIES
LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the stove, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content.
The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood.
Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North
America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and
yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types
for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild
weather in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat. Softwoods are
not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using
softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood
heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more
heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer
lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves
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wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no
longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species
and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.2.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut about 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces
that are even slightly too long make loading the stove very difficult. The most common
standard length of firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from
piece to piece.
3.2.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry
enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t
have the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be
split to encourage drying.
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Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often,
the firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient
stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood
inserts. Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and
involves lack of heat and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood
heating system for concerns about creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
• firewood takes a long time to dry
• firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the
wood in spring and dry it yourself
• drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
• drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
• small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
• split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
• softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
• softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being
stacked in the open for only the summer months
• hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big
• firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and
wind; it takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
• firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight
and will allow your stove to produce its highest possible efficiency
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3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
• cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
• as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,
• bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood
sounds dull,
• dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
• split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels
damp, it is too wet,
• burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
3.3 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any
chemical additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be
burned, but be careful burning too much of these logs at the same time. Start with one
manufactured log and see how the stove reacts. You can increase the number of logs
burned at a time to making sure the temperature never rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C)
on a magnetic thermometer for installation on single wall stove pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on
a probe thermometer for installation on double wall stove pipe. The thermometer should be
placed about 18” (457 mm) above the stove. Higher temperatures can lead to overheat
and damage your stove.
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4 Operating Your Stove
4.1 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the stove are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but
they do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So,
when you first light your stove, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate
the house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the
curing temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you
have burned one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the stove. Once the paint smell
disappears, your stove is ready for serious heating.
4.2 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts
fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three
popular and effective ways to start wood fires.
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood
fire is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of
plain newspaper and place them in the
firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of
fine kindling on the newspaper. This
kindling should be very thin; less than
1” (25 mm). Next, place some larger
kindling pieces on the fine kindling.
Open the air control fully and light the
newspaper. If you have a tall, straight
venting system you should be able to
close the door immediately and the fire
will ignite. If your venting system has
elbows or an outside chimney, you may
need to leave the door closed but
unlatched for a few minutes as the
newspaper ignites and heat in the
chimney produces some draft. Once
the fire has ignited, close the door and
leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper under
finely split wood.
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DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY
OPENED DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you
have a fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first,
it does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build
up the fire gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can
provide up to two hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if
the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next,
place 4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the
base logs at right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling
on the second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff
them in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper
knots by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage
of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as
the fire burns from top to bottom.
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the
logs. Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across
those, log cabin style. Light the newspaper.
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these
starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid
chemicals. Follow the package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold
firebox to start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.3.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will
be variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations
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in temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood
burners these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your stove. It is normal for its surface temperature
to rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as
the fire progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your
household routines. For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active,
such as when doing housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive,
such as when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals
and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same
size as it was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output
by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and
preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps
to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating.
The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the stove’s loading door while the wood
is flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from
the stove when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the
chimney connector has 90 degree elbows and if the chimney runs up the outside wall of
the house.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR
CONTROL FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR
SLOWLY.
4.3.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do
not let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the stove is relatively cool, but
there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the stove and prevent it from
coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the stove and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay
hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other waste shall not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A
WOODEN DECK.
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4.3.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most
of the remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these
coals towards the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals.
First, it concentrates them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and
where they can ignite the new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered
by the new load of wood. If you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will
smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards towards the front of the firebox before
loading so that it will ignite the new load.
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass.
Close the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the
firebox is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing
each load of wood hot accomplishes a few things:
• drives the surface moisture from the wood,
• creates a layer of char, which slows down the smoke release,
• heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
• heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow
the fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED
HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the stove and the chimney,
the result will be a surge of heat from the stove. This heat surge is welcome when the
room temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already
warm. Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool
off a little before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to
clean burning and effective zone heating.
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4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for
a steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate
slows down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the
flow rate of exhaust through the stove and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for
the transfer of heat from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the
flames slow down. This is your indication that the stove is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost disappear when you turn down the air, you have turned
down the air too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be. With good fuel and
correct air control use, the flames should slow down, but should stay large and steady,
even as the air supply is reduced.
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4.3.6 Building Different Fires for Different Needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the stove’s heat output to the heat
demand. Your house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a
comfortable temperature. If you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat
the space or turn the stove down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here
are some suggestions for building fires to match different heat demand.
4.3.6.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and
load them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. Once
you have brought the embers to the front, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other
corner to corner in the firebox and lay two more across them in the other direction. Open
the air control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is
good for mild weather when you are around to tend the stove and should provide enough
heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species
so there will be less chance of overheating the house.
4.3.6.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense
heat. In this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the
pieces are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully
char the log surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the wood is flaming
brightly before leaving the fire to burn.
4.3.6.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily
and brightly. This is the time to use your biggest pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put
the biggest pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A
densely built fire like this will produce the longest burn your stove is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down
too much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving
the fire to burn.
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4.3.6.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the
consumption of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the
fire lasts for roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed
phase during which there is little or no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your
stove, including both the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of
things, such as:
• firebox size,
• the amount of wood loaded,
• the species of wood you burn,
• the wood moisture content,
• the size of the space to be heated,
• the climate zone you live in, and
• the time of year.
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you
are likely to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient stove operation. When you
are home during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that
might provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer
burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the stove to the heat
demand of the space.
4.3.6.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires
In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass
door you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).
East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount
of wood you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against
the glass. East-west loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild
weather.
North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time.
This makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
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5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System
5.1 Stove Maintenance
Your new stove will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly.
Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes,
will wear over time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with
original parts (see Appendix 6: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). For firing each load
hot to begin a cycle as described above will not cause premature deterioration of the
stove. However, letting the stove run with the air control fully open for entire cycles can
cause damage over time. The hotter you run the stove throughout burn cycles, the more
quickly its components will deteriorate. For that reason, never leave the stove
unattended while a new load is being fired hot.
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance
If your appliance has a plated finish, use a metal polish and a soft cloth to clean it. Do not
use abrasives such as steel wool, steel pads or an abrasive cleaner for they may scratch
the finish.
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is
dry enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty
deposit will form on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and
can be easily removed when the stove is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel
and then drying. Never try to clean the glass when the stove is hot.
In spring and fall when the stove is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light
brown stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the
fire has been smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the
weather is mild, you may find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a
continuous fire. Use the technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off
the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for
wood stove glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your stove’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and
how well you are doing in operating the stove. Your goal should be clear glass with no
brown stains. If you continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel
and operating procedure needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete
combustion of the wood, which also means more smoke emissions and faster formation of
creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket
around the glass. Visit your stove retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow
the instructions below for installation.
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5.1.3 Door adjustment
In order for your stove to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal
with the firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically making sure to
obtain an air tight fit. Air tightness can be improved with a simple latch mechanism
adjustment. To adjust:
1. Remove the lock pin (spring pin) by pulling and turning it using pliers ("wise grip").
2. Turn the handle counter clock wise one turn to increase pressure between the
frame of the door and the structure of the stove.
3. Re-install the lock pin (spring pin) with a small hammer.
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5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the
door gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can
test the condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper.
Test all around the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the
gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter
and density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet.
Remove the old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver.
Then use the screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4”
(6 mm) bead of high temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the
middle of the hinge side, press the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as
you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2” long when you cut it and press the end into the
groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and into the silicone. Close the door and
do not use the stove for 24 hours.
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket
is flat, adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws (A) and
metal frames (B) that hold the glass (C) to the door frame (D). Lift out the glass (C) and
pull off the old gasket. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
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The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a
section of the paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the
adhesive side up. Stick the end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the
edge of the glass down onto the gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the
gasket. Peel off more of the backing and rotate the glass and press the next section onto
the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Continue until you get to the start and
trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the glass in a U shape, all around the
glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass carefully in the door. Do not
over-tighten the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken door glass are uneven
placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the stove if the glass
is broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Stove
Do not attempt to clean or paint the stove when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can
be wiped down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners.
To maintain the finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated
surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood stove a brand new
look by repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine
sand paper, wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best
results, use the same paint that was originally used on the stove, which is available in
spray cans. See your dealer for details.
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney connector and chimney, forming a
combustible deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting
system it can ignite when a hot fire is burned in the stove and a very hot fire can progress
to the top of the chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys.
Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form. When you
avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear, creosote builds up
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more slowly. Your new stove has the right characteristics to help you to burn clean fires
with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the chimney.
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It
is important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to
the new stove until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms
slowly in your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each
year.
It is recommended to clean thoroughly the chimney system at the end of every heating
season. During summer, the air is damper and with minimal air circulation within the stove
or furnace, it can mix with creosote and/or sooth deposits in the chimney system to form
an acid that could accelerate the corrosion process and induce premature decay of the
steel. Corrosion damages are not covered under warranty. Have your chimney system
cleaned by a professional chimney sweep. Use a plastic or steel brush.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning chimneys, you
might want to hire a professional
chimney sweep to clean and inspect
the system for the first time. After
having seen the cleaning process, you
can decide if it is a job you would like to
take on.
The most common equipments used
are fibreglass rods with threaded
fittings and stiff plastic brushes. The
brush is forced up and down inside the
chimney flue to scrub off the creosote.
The chimney connector assembly
should always be cleaned at the same
time the chimney is cleaned.
CAUTION: Operation of your stove without the baffle may cause unsafe and hazardous
temperature conditions and will void the warranty.
NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to ensure that none are broken or damaged in
any way. If so, have the damaged ones replaced. Check the firebrick for damage at least
annually and replace any broken or damaged ones with new ones. Inspection and
cleaning of the chimney is facilitated by the removable baffle.
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PART B - INSTALLATION
6 Safety Information
6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings
• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY
OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES
AND/OR WEB SITES).
• MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE
ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC.
SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APP ROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND
ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).
• CONNECT THIS STOVE ONLY TO A LISTED FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEY FOR
USE WITH SOLID FUEL OR TO A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY CONFORMING TO
NATIONAL AND LOCAL BUILDING CODES.
• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE
ROOM OR SPACE.
• DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJ UNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
• DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
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6.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the HT-2000 wood stove
is suitable for use as a freestanding heater in residential installations. The HT-2000 wood
stove is not intended for installation in a sleeping room.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and
Equipment and the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the
absence of local code requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for
Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70
National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code requirements.
This stove must be connected to a chimney complying with the requirements for Type HT
chimneys in the Standard for Factory-Built Chimneys for Residential Type and Building
Heating Appliances, UL 103 HT and ULC S629 or to a code-approved masonry chimney
with a flue liner.
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7 Clearances to Combustible Material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to
procedures set out in safety standards ULC S627 (Canada) and UL1482 (U.S.A.). When
the stove is installed so that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances
specified, combustible surfaces will not overheat under normal and even abnormal
operating conditions.
No part of the stove or flue pipe may be located closer to combustibles than the
minimum clearances given below.
7.1 Location of the certification label
Since the information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always
overrides the information published, in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues,
flyers, magazines and/or web sites) it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and
compliant installation. In addition, you will find information about your stove (model, serial
number, etc.). You can find the certification label on the back of the stove.
7.2 Clearances to Walls and Ceiling
The clearances to combustible walls may be slightly different in Canada and the U.S.A.
and may also differ depending on whether you use single or double wall flue pipe. Please
be sure to choose the correct clearance for your location and type of flue pipe. See figure
Clearances to combustible materials and floor protection to match each letter to a
clearance.
A
B
C
D
E
F
K
L
CANADA USA
19” (485 mm) 19” (485 mm)
19” (485 mm) 19” (485 mm)
11” (280 mm) 11” (280 mm)
23” (585 mm) 23” (585 mm)
30” (765 mm) 30” (765 mm)
23” (585 mm) 23” (585 mm)
48" (1220 mm) 48" (1220 mm)
84" (213 cm) 84" (213 cm)
CLEARANCES
(SINGLE WALL PIPE)
A
B
C
D
E
F
K
L
CANADA USA
10” (255 mm) 10” (255 mm)
14” (360 mm) 14” (360 mm)
8” (205 mm) 8” (205 mm)
14” (360 mm) 14” (360 mm)
25” (635 mm) 25” (635 mm)
20” (510 mm) 20” (510 mm)
48" (1220 mm) 48" (1220 mm)
84" (213 cm) 84" (213 cm)
CLEARANCES
(DOUBLE WALL PIPE)
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Clearances to combustible materials and floor protection
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7.3 Floor protector
Your stove has been conceived to prevent the floor from overheating. However, it must be
placed on a noncombustible surface to protect the floor from hot embers that could fall
from the stove while loading or cleaning. There are differences between floor protections in
Canada and in the United States, as it is illustrated in the table below and on the figure
Clearances to combustible materials and floor protection.
G
H
I
J
M
N
CANADA USA
8’’ (203 mm) – Note 1 N/A (Canada only)
8’’ (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)
18’’ (457 mm)
From door opening
N/A (USA only) 8’’ (203 mm)
8’’ (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)
N/A (USA only) Note 2
FLOOR PROTECTOR*
16’’ (406 mm)
From door opening
*Steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015’’ (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together
with grout. No protection is required if the unit is installed on a non-combustible floor
(ex: concrete).
Note 1: The floor protection at the back of the stove is limited to the stove’s required
clearance if such clearance is smaller than 8 inches (203 mm).
Note 2: Only required under the horizontal section of the connector. Must exceed each
side of the connector by at least 2 inches (51 mm).
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7.4 Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely
It is often desirable to reduce
the minimum installation
clearances by placing the stove
closer to walls so the installation
takes up less floor space. You
can safely reduce the minimum
clearances by permanently
installing a shield between the
stove and combustible material.
The rules for safe shields can be
complicated, so read them
carefully and follow them
exactly. Note that there may be
minor regional differences in
clearance reduction rules so be
sure to check with your building
or fire inspector before
proceeding.
7.4.1 Shield Construction Rules
See figure Clearances for shield construction to match each letter to a clearance.
Adhesives used in shield construction must not ignite or lose adhesive qualities at
-
temperatures likely to be encountered.
Mounting hardware which extends from the shield surface into combustibles may be
-
used only at the edges of the shield.
Mounting hardware must allow full vertical ventilation.
-
Minimum clearance between the appliance top and an unshielded combustible ceiling:
A
1 346 mm (53 in.).
Shield extension above appliance: 500 mm (20 in.).
B
Minimum space behind shield: 25 mm (1 in.). In Canada 21 mm (7/8 in).
C
Clearance along the bottom of shield: minimum: 25 mm (1 in.) and maximum: 75 mm (3
D
in.).
Minimum clearance along the top of shield at ceiling: 75 mm (3 in.).
E
Mounting hardware must not be located closer than 200 mm (8 in.) from the vertical
F
centre line of the appliance.
Edge clearance for ceiling shields to side and back walls: 75 mm (3 in.).
G
Shield extension beyond each side of appliance: 450 mm (18 in.).
H
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Clearances for shield construction
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7.4.2 Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages
Type of shield
Sheet metal, a minimum of 24
gauge (0.61 mm) in thickness ,
spaced out at least 25 mm (1 in)*
by non-combustible spacers
Ceramic tiles, or equivalent noncombustible material, on noncombustible board spaced out at
least 25 mm (1 in)* by noncombustible spacers
Clearances may be reduced by these
percentages
and rear %
Can/US
A
(%)
Sides
USA
min.
Can/US
Top %
(ceiling)
A
(%)
USA
min.
67 12 po 50 18 po
50 18 po 33 24 po
Ceramic tiles, or equivalent noncombustible material, on noncombustible board, with a
minimum of 24 gauge (0.61 mm)
sheet metal backing spaced out at
least 25 mm (1 in)* by noncombustible spacers
Brick, spaced out at least 25 mm
(1 in)* by non-combustible spacers
Brick, with a minimum of 24 gauge
(0.61 mm) sheet metal backing,
spaced out at least 25 mm (1 in)*
by non-combustible spacers
* In Canada this space can be 21 mm (7/8 in).
67 12 po 50 24 po
50 18 po N/A N/A
67 12 po N/A N/A
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8 The Venting System
8.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the connecting pipe between the stove
and the chimney, acts as the engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best
stove will not function safely and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable
chimney.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the stove and chimney connector into the
chimney is not waste heat. This heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that
draws in combustion air, keeps smoke inside the stove and safely vents exhaust to
outside. You can think of heat in the flue gas as the fuel the chimney uses to make draft.
8.2 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood stove will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6inch diameter chimney flue system. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at
least 5 inches (Canada only) or no more than 7 inches is permitted, if it allows the proper
venting of combustion gases and that such application is verified and authorized by a
qualified installer. Otherwise, the diameter of the flue should be 6 inches.
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To be suitable, a factory-built metal
chimney must comply with UL 103 HT
(U.S.A.) or ULC S629 (Canada).
8.2.1 Factory-built Metal Chimneys
These are sometimes referred to as
‘high temp’ chimneys because they
have the special characteristics to
withstand the temperatures that can be
created by wood burning stoves.
Factory-built chimneys are tested as a
system with all the necessary
components for installation. The
instructions provided with the chimney
by its manufacturer are the only reliable
source of installation guidelines. To be
safe and effective, the chimney must
be installed exactly in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions. Use
only components intended for the
brand and model of chimney you are
using. Never substitute parts from
other chimney brands or fabricate
your own components. The chimney
must be a type suitable for solid
fuel.
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8.2.2 Masonry Chimneys
The stove may also be connected to a
masonry chimney, provided the
chimney complies with the construction
rules found in the building code
enforced locally. The chimney must
have either a clay liner or a suitably
listed stainless steel liner. If the
masonry chimney has a square or
rectangular liner that is larger in cross
sectional area than a round 6” flue, it
should be relined with a suitably listed
6” stainless steel liner. Do not
downsize the flue to less than 6” unless
the venting system is straight and
exceeds 25 feet in height. When
passing through a combustible wall, the
use of an insulated listed thimble is
required.
8.3 Minimum Chimney Height
The top of the chimney should be
tall enough to be above the air
turbulence caused when wind
blows against the house and its
roof. The chimney must extend at
least 1 m (3 ft.) above the highest
point of contact with the roof, and
at least 60 cm (2 ft.) higher than
any roof line or obstacle within a
horizontal distance of 3 m (10 ft.).
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8.4 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must
have the right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when
there is no fire in the stove, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is
opened for loading. There are two guidelines to follow. First, the chimney should be
installed up through the heated space of the house, not out and up an outside wall.
Second, the chimney should penetrate the top of the building at or near the highest heated
space.
8.4.1 Why inside chimneys are preferred
Venting systems that rise straight up from the stove flue collar provide the best
performance. Chimneys that rise inside the warm space of the house tend to provide a
small amount of draft even when there is no fire burning. This means that when you light a
fire, the initial smoke goes up the chimney and strong draft builds quickly as the chimney
flue warms up. Although they are common in North America, chimneys that exit a house
wall and run up outside can cause problems.
Good System Design
Inside chimneys are preferred because even
when no fire is burning, there is normally
upward flow in the system.
Inferior System Design
Outside chimneys are a problem
because when no fire burns they will go
into cold backdraft if the stove is
installed low in the house.
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8.4.2 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This
tendency of warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack
effect’, it produces a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a
slightly positive pressure zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater
connected to a chimney that is shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight
negative pressure low in the house will compete against the desired upward flow in the
chimney.
There are two reasons why the
chimney in the house at right will
cold backdraft when it is cold
outside and there is no fire
burning in the stove. First, the
chimney runs up the outside of the
house, so the air in it is colder and
denser than the warm air in the
house. And second, the chimney
is shorter than the heated space
of the house, meaning the
negative pressure low in the
house will pull outside air down
the chimney, through the stove
and into the room. Even the finest
stove will not work well when
connected to this chimney.
8.5 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood stoves are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors
(except in mobile homes) because research has shown that these supplies do not give
protection against house depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during
windy weather. However, to protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house
depressurization, a carbon monoxide (CO) detector/alarm is required in the room
where the stove is installed. The CO detector will provide warning if for any reason the
wood stove fails to function correctly.
8.5.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood stove is from the room
in which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its
availability is not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly
expressed concerns, almost all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to
provide the small amount of air needed by the stove. The only case in which the wood
stove may not have adequate access to combustion air is if the operation of a powerful
exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust) causes the pressure in the house to
become negative relative to outdoors.
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Some jurisdictions in the United States require that wood stoves have a supply of
combustion air from outdoors. If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house,
be aware that its pressure can be affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in
wood stove performance in windy weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the stove,
you should disconnect the outdoor air duct from the stove and remove the duct. In some
windy conditions, negative pressure at the duct weatherhood outside the house wall may
draw hot exhaust gases from the stove backwards through the duct to outdoors. Check the
outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full system is cleaned and inspected at least
once each year.
8.6 Installing the Chimney Connector
The chimney connector is the single or double wall pipe installed between the stove flue
collar and the chimney breech. Single wall pipe components are available from most
hardware and building supply stores. These components are not usually tested to a
particular standard and certified as compliant. Therefore, a list of rules found in solid fuel
installation codes apply to the installation of single wall pipe.
Double wall chimney connectors are tested and certified. The rules for double wall pipe are
found in the manufacturer’s installation instructions. These rules will be very different than
those for single wall.
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8.6.1 Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector
The chimney connector assembly has been called ‘the weak link’ in the safety of wood
heating systems because failure to install the connector properly (which has been common
in the past) can result in house fires.
The best flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the stove to the base of the
chimney with no elbows. Straight assemblies are less likely to cause problems like smoke
roll-out when the door is opened for loading. They are also more stable and easier to
maintain than assemblies with elbows. Horizontal runs of flue pipe should be avoided
where possible because they reduce chimney draft.
Use 45 degree elbows where possible, instead of 90 degree elbows.
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The rules below are based on those found in the CSA B365 installation code. Please
carefully follow these installation instruction rules, or those enforced where you live.
• Maximum overall length of straight pipe: 3 m (10 ft.) including elbows.
• Minimum clearance from combustible material: 450 mm (18 in.). The minimum
clearance may be reduced by 50 percent to 225 mm (9 in.) if suitable shielding is
installed either on the pipe or on the combustible surface.
• The assembly should be as short and direct as possible between the stove and
chimney. The use of two 45 degree elbows is often preferable to a single 90 degree
elbow because less turbulence is created in the exhaust flow and they result in less
horizontal run.
• Maximum number of 90-degree elbows: 2.
• Maximum unsupported horizontal length: 1 m (3 feet).
• Galvanized flue pipes must not be used because the coatings vaporize at high
temperatures and release dangerous gases. Use black painted flue pipes.
• Flue pipes must be at least 24 gauges in thickness.
• Flue pipe joints should overlap 30 mm (1 1/4 in.)
• Each joint in the assembly must be fastened with at least three screws.
• The assembly must have allowance for expansion: elbows in assemblies allow for
expansion; straight assemblies should include an inspection wrap with one end
unfastened, or a telescopic section.
• Minimum upward slope towards the chimney: 20 mm/m (1/4 in/ft.).
• One end of the assembly must be securely fastened to the flue collar with 3 sheet
metal screws and the other end securely fastened to the chimney.
• There must be provision for cleaning of the pipes, either through a clean out or by
removal of the pipe assembly. Removal of the assembly should not require that the
stove be moved.
• The male ends of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that falling
dust and condensation stay inside the pipe.
• A flue pipe must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an attic,
roof space, closet or concealed space.
• Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is desired, the
installation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning
Appliances and Equipment.
The ideal flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the appliance flue collar and
directly into the chimney with no elbows. A straight up connector assembly needs either a
telescopic length or an inspection wrap (pipe coupler) to allow it to be assembled and
disassembled without moving the stove.
A straight flue pipe assembly offers the least restriction to gas flow and results in stronger
draft. Straight assemblies also need less maintenance because there are no corners to
collect creosote.
The chimney connector must be in good condition.
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Appendix 1: Installing the Pedestal
The pedestal kit must be assembled to the firebox before positioning the stove. See
installation instructions below:
1- Slide the pedestal surrounding (A)
toward the back of the stove base and join
it to the pedestal back surrounding (B).
2- Secure both parts together using a
Phillips screwdriver and 2 screws (C).
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Appendix 2: Installing Trims
Your freestanding Drolet wood stove is equipped with decorative u-shaped trims. See
installation instructions below:
1- Using a Phillips screwdriver, install
decorative upper trims (A) & (B)
by fastening screws (C) on both
side of each trim.
2- Using a Phillips screwdriver,
secure the primary air control
knob (D) with 2 screws (E).
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3- Press the ashtray trim (F) on the
upper edge of ashtray lip.
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Appendix 3: Installation and Use of Optional Air Circulation
Fan (AC02050), and Thermodiscs (AC02055 and AC05530)
An optional fan can be installed on the back of the stove to increase the flow of air past
heat exchange surfaces and to help circulate warm air in the room. When used regularly,
the fan can provide a small increase in efficiency, up to 2 percent. However, the use of a
fan should not be used as a way to gain more output from a stove that is undersized for
the space it is intended to heat. You can purchase this option through your DROLET
dealer. Make sure to specify this part number: # AC02050.
The fan has a rheostat. See the illustration on the right to
identify the different adjustment positions; either from high (HI)
to low (LO) or closed (OFF).
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When using the optional fan, allow the stove to reach operating temperature
(approximately one hour), before turning it on. The increased airflow from the fan cools the
firebox and could affect the start-up combustion efficiency if the fan is turned on too early.
You can also install a thermodisc to enable the blower to start or stop automatically when
the stove is hot or too cold. The thermodisc part number is AC05530 for a basic model and
AC02055 for a quick connect model. Installation instructions are supplied with the blower
and the thermodisc.
CAUTION: ENSURE THAT THE FAN’S POWER CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH
ANY SURFACE OF THE STOVE TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE
DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN THE POWER CORD BENEATH THE STOVE.
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Appendix 4: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes
1-Starting with the rear tube, lean and
insert the right end of the secondary air
tube into the rear right channel hole.
Then lift and insert the left end of the tube
into the rear left channel.
2- Align the last hole of the tube in the left
air channel spigot hole. Insert a cotter pin
in order to maintain the tube in place.
3- Fold-up the cotter pin end to lock the
tube.
4- Repeat step 1, 2 & 3 for the other
secondary air tubes.
5- To remove the tubes use the above
steps in reverse order.
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Appendix 5: Baffle Installation
1- Remove the front secondary air tube
(A) and its cotter pin (B) and the
three first bricks (C) on the right side
of the combustion chamber.
2- Pile up one insulation blanket (E) and
an insulation weight (F) upon one
baffle board (D). Insert them into the
combustion chamber and pass them
over the air channels. Push them to
the back of the combustion
chamber, making sure the baffle sits
well on both air channels.
3- Repeat step 2 to install the second
baffle.
4- Put back in place the previously
removed secondary air tube (A) and
its cotter pin (B) as well as the three
bricks (C).
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Note that secondary air tubes can be replaced without removing the baffle board.
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model Type of tube
HT-2000
Front ► 28 holes of 0.203"
Middle► 28 holes of 0.172’’
Rear ► 28 holes of 0.172’’
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Appendix 6: Exploded Diagram and Parts List
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IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement
parts for your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve
the right to change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized
dealer to obtain any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved
parts can result in poor performance and safety hazards.
# Item Description Qty
1 AC07860 1/2 " BRASS PLATED COIL HANDLE 1
1 AC07867 1/2 " CHROME PLATED COIL HANDLE 1
2 SE24021B DOOR WITH GASKET AND HANDLE WITHOUT GLASS 1
3 AC09160 HANDLE AND LATCH KIT 1
4 AC09185 DOOR LATCH KIT 1
5 AC06000 SILICONE AND 1/2" x 8' BLACK GASKET REPLACEMENT KIT (DOOR) 1
6 30055 HINGE PIN RETAINING RING 5/16" ID X 0.512" OD 2
7 30170 HINGE PIN 5/16" DIA X 1 1/2" LONG 2
8 30101 SPRING TENSION PIN 5/32" DIA X 1 1/2" LONG 1
9 SE20009 REMPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 10 3/8" X 17 1/8" 1
10 AC06400 BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET KIT (6') 1
11 PL20013 BOTTOM GLASS RETAINER 1
12 PL20015 SHORT SIDE GLASS RETAINER 2
13 PL20016 LONG SIDE GLASS RETAINER 1
14 PL20014 TOP GLASS RETAINER 1
15 30124 SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/16'' TRUSS QUADREX ZINC 14
16 PL07703 BRASS DECORATIVE ASH SHELF TRIM 24 1/2" X 1/2" X1/8" 1
16 PL07703-01 CHROME DECORATIVE ASH SHELF TRIM 24 1/2" X 1/2" X1/8" 1
17 30093 BOLT 1/4-20 X 3/4" HEX GRADE 5 4
18 30100 BLACK HEX NUT 1/4 - 20 4
19 99999 BUILD TO ORDER 1
20 SE08304-03 ASH DRAWER 1
21 30131 BLACK METAL SCREW #10 X 1/2" TYPE "A" PAN QUADREX 2
22 PL07763 BACK OF PEDESTAL CONTOUR 1
23 PL07760 PEDESTAL SURROUND 1
24 SE06722 INSTRUCTION MANUAL KIT 1
25 99999 BUILD TO ORDER 1
26 SE07726 AIR CONTROL SLIDE 1
27 30129 METAL SCREW #10 X 1/2" PAN QUADREX ZINC "A" TYPE 2
28 PL06728 AIR CONTROL HANDLE 1
29 30092 BOLT 5/16''-18 X 3/4" HEX GRADE 5 6
30 PL06727-01 DECORATIVE MOULDING BRACE 4
31 30422 Nut 5/16 - 18 Hex Zinc 52-008-045 6
32 PL07727 GOLD PLATED AIR CONTROL DECORATIVE GRILL 1
32 PL07728 AIR CONTROL DECORATIVE GRILL BRUSHED NICKEL 1
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# Item Description Qty
33 30075 BRASS METAL SCREW #6 X 1/2" QUADREX 4
33 30142 NICKEL METAL SCREW #6 X 1/2" QUADREX 4
34 PL07727-01 GOLD PLATED AIR OUTLET DECORATIVE GRILL 1
34 PL07729 AIR OUTLET DECORATIVE GRILL BRUSHED NICKEL 1
35 SE02000-02 ASH DUMP COVER 1
36 PL36049 4 1/2" X 4 1/2'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 1
37 29010 4 1/2" X 9" X 1.25" REFRACTORY BRICK 17
38 PL36029 5 7/8" X 6" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 1
39 29005 6" X 8 1/4" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 6
40 PL07712 REAR INSULATION 2
41 PL07718-02 FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE NEUTRAL 1
42 PL07718-01 MIDDLE SECONDARY AIR TUBE RED 1
43 PL07718-03 REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE YELLOW 1
44 30068 STAINLESS STEEL COTTER PIN 1/8" X 1 1/2" 3
45 7725-02 C-CAST BAFFLE 8 7/16'' X 24'' 2
46 PL07711 BAFFLE INSULATION 8 1/2'' X 24'' X 1/2'' 2
47 PL34026 BAFFLE INSULATION WEIGHT 2
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DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original consumer purchaser and is not trans ferable. This warra nty
covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory. Proof
of purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to
your DROLET dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damag es caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation,
lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, or
venting problems are not covered by this warranty.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused by the
use of unauthorized parts or others than original parts void this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must
perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product and all local and nation al build in g
codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the
claim. Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. If a product is found to be
defective, the manufacturer will repair or replace such defect. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the
purchaser will be paid by the manufacturer. Rep air work cov ered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile
by an authorized qualified technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. Labour cost and repair work to the
account of the manufacturer are based on predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the wholesale price of the
replacement part. All parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.
The manufacturer at its discretion may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of
the defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by
refunding the wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall in no event be responsible
for any special, indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the
product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts benefiting from a lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to
products purchased after October 1
DESCRIPTION
Combustion chamber (welds only) and castings.
Stainless steel firebox components, secondary air tubes*, surrounds and heat
shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions),
plating* (defective manufacture), and convector air-mate.
Carbon steel firebox components, glass retainers, handle assembly, C-Cast
baffle*, and vermiculite baffle*.
Standard blowers, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls.
Optional blowers, ceramic glass (thermal breakage only*), paint (peeling),
gaskets, insulation, and ceramic fibre blankets.
Firebrick
*Pictures required
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your DROLET dealer. Prior to your call make sure
you have the following information necessary to your warranty claim treatment:
Your name, address and telephone number;
Bill of sale and dealer’s name;
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain from your DROLET dealer an
Authorization Number. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused
automatically and returned to sender.
st
, 2011.
WARRANTY APPLICATION
PARTS LABOUR
Lifetime
5 years 3 years
3 years 1 year
2 years
1 year
n/a
Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
3 years
1 year
n/a
n/a
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