Dodge 2000 Durango Service Manual

DN ENGINE 9 - 1
ENGINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
4.7L ENGINE.............................. 1
5.2L ENGINE............................. 86
4.7L ENGINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ENGINE.................................2
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM..............3
CYLINDER BLOCK.........................5
CRANKSHAFT............................5
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD .............5
CYLINDER HEAD..........................5
VALVE GUIDES ...........................5
VALVE STEM SEAL ........................5
VALVE SPRING ...........................6
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER ...............6
TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM ....................6
CAMSHAFT ..............................6
ROCKER ARM............................6
CYLINDER HEAD COVER ...................6
STRUCTURAL DUST COVER ................7
INTAKE MANIFOLD ........................7
EXHAUST MANIFOLD ......................7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ENGINE DIAGNOSIS—INTRODUCTION.........7
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—PERFORMANCE .......8
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—LUBRICATION.........11
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS .....11
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST . . 11 CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE
DIAGNOSIS ...........................12
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE TEST ........................12
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE
DIAGNOSIS ...........................14
5.9L ENGINE............................ 135
SERVICE PROCEDURES
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
9 - 2 4.7L ENGINE DN
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The 4.7 liter (287 CID) eight-cylinder engine is an
90° single overhead camshaft engine. The cast iron
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIAL TOOLS
cylinder block is made up of two different compo­nents; the first component is the cylinder bore and upper block, the second component is the bedplate that comprises the lower portion of the cylinder block and houses the lower half of the crankshaft main bearings. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear with the left bank being numbered 1,3,5 and 7, and the right bank being numbered 2,4,6 and 8. The
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
firing order is 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2. The engine serial number is located at the right front side of the engine block (Fig. 1)
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system (Fig. 2) is a full flow filtra-
tion pressure feed type.
OPERATION
Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil pump directly mounted to the crankshaft nose. Oil pressure is controlled by a relief valve mounted inside the oil pump housing. For lubrication flow refer to (Fig. 2).
The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker arm; oil flows through the lash adjuster then through the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to the orentation of the rocker arm, the camshaft intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the exhaust lobes. The intake lobes are lubed through internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through a bore in the number 3 camshaft bearing bore, and as the camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine oil to enter the camshaft tube. The oil then exits through 1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the
1 – VEHICLE VIN NUMBER LOCATION 2 – CYLINDER BLOCK RIGHT HAND SIDE 3 – CYLINDER BORE #2
intake lobes, lubricating the lobes and the rocker arms.
Fig. 1 Engine Identification Location.
ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHART—BLOCK: TABLE 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1.Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2. Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head See Table 2
Right Cylinder Head See Table 2
* The cylinder head
gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to the cylinder heads.
9 - 4 4.7L ENGINE DN
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
1 – LEFT CYLINDER HEAD OIL GALLERY 2 – OIL PRESSURE SENSOR LOCATION 3 – TO LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 4 – OIL FEED TO IDLER SHAFT 5 – OIL PUMP OUTLET TO BLOCK 6 – OIL PUMP
Fig. 2 Engine Oil Lubrication System
7 – TO CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS 8 – RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD OIL GALLERY 9 – TO RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD 10 – CYLINDER BLOCK MAIN GALLERY 11 – OIL FEED TO BOTH SECONDARY TENSIONERS
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 5
2000 DN Service Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHART—CYLINDER HEADS: TABLE 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to front)
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Publication No. 81-370-0016 TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design with eight counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by five select main bear­ings with the number three serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication. The number eight counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.
LATE BUILD
The pistons are made of high strength aluminum alloy. The top ring groove and crown are Not anod­ized, instead the top ring is coated with an anti-scuff coating to reduce friction on the top ring. The piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The con­necting rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a “fractured cap” design. A pressed fit piston pin is used to attach the piston and connecting rod.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin­der heads.
VALVE GUIDES
DESCRIPTION
The valve guides are made of powered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream­ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con­necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink or a scratch awl.
EARLY BUILD
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum alloy with an anodized top ring groove and crown. Piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The connect­ing rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a “fractured cap” design. A pressed fit piston pin is used to attach the piston and connecting rod.
VALVES
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote valve rotation.
VALVE STEM SEAL
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor­porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte­gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.
9 - 6 4.7L ENGINE DN
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
VALVE SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
DESCRIPTION
Valve lash is controlled by hydraulic lash adjusters that are stationary mounted in the cylinder heads. The lash adjusters have a hole in the ball plunger that feeds oil through the rocker arm squirt holes for rocker arm roller and camshaft lobe lubrication.
TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The timing drive system has been designed to pro­vide quiet performance and reliability to support a non-free wheeling engine. Specifically the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam­aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to­crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive system consists of a primary chain and two second­ary timing chain drives.
OPERATION
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth type. The primary chain drives the large fifty tooth idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear faces for low friction and long wear. The primary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the second­ary chain drive and oil pump leakage. The idler sprocket assembly connects the primary and second­ary chain drives. The idler sprocket assembly con­sists of two integral thirty tooth sprockets and a fifty tooth sprocket that is splined to the assembly. The spline joint is a non – serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral ring is installed on the outboard side of the fifty tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengage­ment. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a station­ary idler shaft. The idler shaft is press-fit into the cylinder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con­trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro­vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are inverted tooth type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary chain drives a thirty tooth cam sprocket directly from the thirty tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a hydrau­lic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic ten­sioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pres­surized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize nylon wear faces for low fric­tion and long wear. The secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a small orifice in the ten­sioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
CAMSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. A steel post or nose piece is friction-welded to the steel cam­shaft tube. Five bearing journals are machined into the camshaft, four on the steel tube and one on the steel nose piece. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.
ROCKER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte­gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8 mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head covers are made of die cast mag­nesium, and are not interchangeable from side-to­side. It is imperative that nothing rest on the cylinder head covers. Prolonged contact with other items may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 7
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.
STRUCTURAL DUST COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu­minum and joins the lower half of the transmission bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power­train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite mate­rial and features long runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of eight individual press in place port gaskets to prevent leaks. Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal expansion of the exhaust manifold.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ENGINE DIAGNOSIS—INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per­formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
Refer to the Service Diagnosis—Performance chart and the Service Diagnosis—Mechanical chart for pos­sible causes and corrections of malfunctions. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagno­sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test.
Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test.
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis.
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis.
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
9 - 8 4.7L ENGINE DN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery connections.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Refer to Group 8A, Battery/
4. Moisture on ignition wires and distributor cap.
5. Faulty ignition cables. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Faulty coil or control unit. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
7. Incorrect spark plug gap. 7. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
8. Incorrect ignition timing. 8. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
9. Dirt or water in fuel system. 9. Clean system and replace fuel
10. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
2. Idle mixture to lean or to rich. 2. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 4. Replace distributor rotor.
5. Incorrect ignition wiring. 5. Install correct wiring.
6. Faulty coil. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
7. EGR valve leaking. 7. Refer to Group 25, Emissions
8. Incorrect cam timing. 8. Refer to Valve Timing in this
2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to the terminals.
Starter/ Charging System Diagnostics.
4. Wipe wires and cap clean and dry.
System.
System.
System.
filter.
10. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as necessary.
System.
Control System.
section.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Incorrect ignition timing. 1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
2. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 2. Replace distributor rotor.
3. Worn distributor shaft. 3. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition System.
4. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.
5. Dirt or water in fuel system. 5. Clean system and replace fuel
6. Faulty fuel pump. 6. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
7. Blown cylinder head gasket. 7. Replace cylinder head gasket.
8. Low compression. 8. Test compression, repair as
9. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 9. Replace as necessary.
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.
11. Faulty ignition cables. 11. Replace as necessary.
12. Faulty coil. 12. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
13. Incorrect cam timing. 13. Refer to Valve Timing in this
4. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition System.
filter.
necessary.
10. Inspect and replace as necessary.
System.
section.
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED 1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.
2. Incorrect ignition timing. 2. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
3. Dirt in fuel system. 3. Clean fuel system.
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 4. Replcae as necessary.
5. Faulty coil. 5. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
6. Incorrect cam timing. 6. Refer to Valve Timing in this
gapped.
2. Worn Distributor Shaft. 2. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
3. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 3. Replace distributor rotor.
4. Faulty coil. 4. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
5. Incorrect ignition timing. 5. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
7. Incorrect cam timing. 7. Refer to Valve Timing in this
1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition System.
System.
System.
section.
1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition System.
System.
System.
System.
filter.
section.
9 - 10 4.7L ENGINE DN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Clean lash adjusters.
5. Bent push rods. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn tappets 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Refer to Valve Service in this
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance.
and main bearings for excessive wear.
section.
9. Service valves and valve seats. Refer to Valve Service in this section.
maintenance.
maintenance.
5. Service or replace crankshaft.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
maintenance.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and maintenance.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check No. 3 main bearing for wear on flanges.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.
7. Tighten to correct torque
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary. (b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
5. Replace seal.
6. Polish or replace damper.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Clean or replace relief valve.
9. Oil pump suction tube loose or
damaged.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING
1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
clearance.
9. Replace as necessary.
rings.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc­tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
9 - 12 4.7L ENGINE DN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs. (3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position. (4) Disable the fuel system. (Refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the correct procedure)
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin­ders.
Refer to Engine Specifications for the correct engine compression pressures.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Loss of engine power
Engine misfiring
Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are:
Engine overheating
Loss of coolant
Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce­dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi­mately a 50–70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES­SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES­SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES­SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester’s pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer’s
(6) instructions. The shop air source for testing should main­tain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maxi­mum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer’s instructions. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres­sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main­tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak­age Test Diagnosis chart.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH THROTTLE BODY
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH TAILPIPE
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH RADIATOR
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERS
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL FILLER CAP OPENING ONLY
Intake valve bent, burnt, or not seated properly
Exhaust valve bent, burnt, or not seated properly
Head gasket leaking or cracked cylinder head or block
Head gasket leaking or crack in cylinder head or block between adjacent cylinders
Stuck or broken piston rings; cracked piston; worn rings and/or cylinder wall
Inspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary
Inspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary
Remove cylinder head and inspect. Replace defective part
Remove cylinder head and inspect. Replace gasket, head, or block as necessary
Inspect for broken rings or piston. Measure ring gap and cylinder diameter, taper and out-of-round. Replace defective part as necessary
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var­ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and repeat inspection.
(4) If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus­pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
9 - 14 4.7L ENGINE DN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank­case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis­assembled.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS—INSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for proper repair procedures of these items. (4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis­assembled. Refer to the service Diagnosis—Mechani­cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group 9, Engines—Crankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper replacement procedures.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin­der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi­mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 3) and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
Fig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 – BELT 2 – OIL PRESSURE SENSOR 3 – OIL FILTER 4 – ELEC. CONNECTOR
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens. (3) Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle—25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm—170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas­kets are used on the engine. DO NOT use form-in- place gasket material unless specified. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets. Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor­tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter­changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This material is normally used on flexible metal flanges. It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi­ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be disassembled without unusual effort. In some instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4 inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con­tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom­mended during assembly to prevent smearing the material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate­rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
9 - 16 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE OIL
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL. CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi­fied. MOPARt provides engine oils that conform to this service grade.
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON­SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con­tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine oil. The identifying notations are located on the label of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil cans (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5 Engine Oil Container Standard Notations
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right rear of the engine on the 4.7L engines. (Fig. 6).
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis­cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi­ple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the 4.7L engines. These are specified with a dual SAE viscos­ity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your particular temperature range and vari­ation (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4 Temperature/Engine Oil Viscosity—4.7L
Engine
Fig. 6 Engine Oil Dipstick 4.7L Engine
1 – TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK 2 – ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK 3 – ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib­ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min­utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.
OIL FILTER REMOVAL
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter. (2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter. (3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 7) to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem­perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this sec­tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
Fig. 7 Oil Filter—4.7L Engine
1 – ENGINE OIL FILTER
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
OIL FILTER INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 8) hand tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.
FILTER SPECIFICATION
All engines are equipped with a high quality full­flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor­poration recommends a Mopar or equivalent oil filter be used.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
9 - 18 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (Fig. 9).
Fig. 8 Oil Filter Sealing Surface—Typical
1 – SEALING SURFACE 2 – RUBBER GASKET 3 – OIL FILTER
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen­tially, this repair consists of:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BORE—HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim­its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin­der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf­ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors.
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 – CROSSHATCH PATTERN 2 – INTERSECTANGLE
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross­hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross­hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter­gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint­free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what caused the problem), follow the steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank­shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 19
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. (11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter. (14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery. (16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
VALVE SERVICE
REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur­face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 – 2.36 mm (0.0689 –
0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 – 2.32 mm (0.0673 – 0.0911 in.).
(4) Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 41.44 mm (1.6315 in.).
(5) The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 – 45 degrees angle.
Fig. 10 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 – VALVE LOCKS (3–BEAD) 2 – RETAINER 3 – VALVE STEM OIL SEAL 4 – INTAKE VALVE 5 – EXHAUST VALVE 6 – VALVE SPRING
ENGINE TIMING—VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover (Fig. 11). Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
9 - 20 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING
NOTE: to adjust the timing on one camshaft, pre­form the following procedure.
(1) Using Chain Tensioner Wedge, special tool 8350, stabilize the secondary chain drive. For refer­ence purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position (Fig. 13).
(2) Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(3) Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft.
(4) Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V8 mark is at the same position as the V8 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pli­ers on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
(5) Using a suitable pair of adjustable pliers, rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the
Fig. 11 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Mark
1 – TIMING CHAIN COVER 2 – CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
(3) Note the location of the V8 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears (Fig. 12). If the V8 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o’clock posi­tion, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V8 mark on each gear is at the six o’clock posi­tion, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke.
(4) If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets procedure in this section.
(5) If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to Single camshaft tim­ing, in this procedure.
(6) If both camshaft drive gear V8 marks are at the twelve o’clock or the six o’ clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.
camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear (Fig. 14).
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Fail­ure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
(6) Position the camshaft drive gear onto the cam­shaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench, Tighten retaining bolt to 122N·m (90 ft. Lbs.) (Fig.
15) (Fig. 16).
(7) Remove special tool 8350.
(8) Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then reverify that the camshaft drive gear V8 marks are in fact aligned.
(9) Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to Cylin­der Head Cover in this section.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 21
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
1 – LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 – RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 12 Camshaft Sprocket V8 Marks
Fig. 13 Securing Timing Chain Tensioners Using Timing Chain Wedge
1 – LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 – RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
3 – SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE 4 – SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
9 - 22 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Fig. 14 Camshaft Dowel To Sprocket Alignment
1 – ADJUSTABLE PLIERS 2 – CAMSHAFT DOWEL
TIMING CHAIN—MEASURING WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing
Chain Cover in this section for procedure.
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain ten­sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston (Fig.
17). The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm (.5906 inches).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in this section for procedure.
PISTONS—FITTING
BORE GAGE METHOD
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl­inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside microme­ter.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 49.5 mm (1-15/16 inches) below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
Fig. 15 Camshaft Sprocket Installation—Left
Cylinder Head
1 – TORQUE WRENCH 2 – CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 3 – LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 4 – SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point B (Fig. 19).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled. Tin coated pistons should not be used as replacements for coated pistons.
(4) The coating material is applied to the piston after the final piston machining process. Measuring the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro­vide accurate results (Fig. 18). Therefore measuring the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is required.
(5) Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires slightly more pressure than that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 23
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Fig. 18 Moly Coated Piston
Fig. 16 Camshaft Sprocket Installation—Right
Cylinder Head
1 – TORQUE WRENCH 2 – SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346 3 – LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 4 – RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
1 – MOLY COATED 2 – MOLY COATED
Fig. 17 Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For
Stretch
1 – SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM 2 – SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
Fig. 19 Bore Gauge—Typical
1 – FRONT 2 – BORE GAUGE 3 – CYLINDER BORE 4 – 49.5 MM
(1–15/16 in)
9 - 24 4.7L ENGINE DN
2000 DN Service Manual
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Publication No. 81-370-0016 TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999
PISTON RINGS—FITTING
RING END GAP
Before reinstalling used rings or installing new
rings, the ring clearances must be checked.
(1) Wipe the cylinder bore clean. (2) Insert the ring in the cylinder bore.
NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least 12mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.
(3) Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the cylinder.
(4) Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap (Fig. 20). Replace any rings not within specification.
Fig. 20 Ring End Gap Measurement—Typical
1 – FEELER GAUGE
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.
(5) Measure the ring side clearance as shown (Fig.
21) make sure the feeler gauge fits snugly between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
(6) Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding.
EARLY BUILD
(7) The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a differ­ent cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston.
LATE BUILD
The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston. On late build engines the piston top ring groove and crown are not anodized therefore, the No. 1 piston ring is coated with an anti-friction coating. Care must be used to ensure that when
Fig. 21 Measuring Piston Ring Side Clearance
1 – FEELER GAUGE
PISTON RING SPECIFICATION CHART
Ring Position Groove Maximum
Clearance Clearance
Upper Ring .051-.094mm 0.11mm
(0.0020-.0037
in.)
Intermediate
Ring
Oil Control Ring .019-.229mm .25mm
(Steel Rails) (.0007-.0090 in.) (0.010 in.)
Ring Position Ring Gap Wear Limit
Upper Ring 0.20-0.36mm 0.40mm
Intermediate
Ring
Oil Control Ring 0.025-0.76mm 1.52mm
(Steel Rail) (0.010- 0.030
0.04-0.08mm 0.10mm
(0.0016-0.0031
in.)
(0.008-0.014 in.) (0.0016in.)
0.37-0.63mm 0.71mm
(0.014-0.025 in.) (0.028in.)
in.)
(0.004 in.)
(0.004 in.)
(0.060in.)
installing piston rings on late build engines that the correct No. 1 piston ring be installed, failure to use the correct piston ring can cause severe damage to the piston and/or cylinder block.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 25
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following order:
Oil ring expander.
Upper oil ring side rail.
Lower oil ring side rail.
No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
No. 1 Upper piston ring.
(8) Install the oil ring expander.
(9) Install upper side rail (Fig. 22) by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.
(10) Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a piston ring installer (Fig. 23).
(11) Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring installer (Fig. 23).
(12) Position piston ring end gaps as shown in (Fig. 24). It is important that expander ring gap is at least 45° from the side rail gaps, but not on the pis­ton pin center or on the thrust direction.
Fig. 23 Upper and Intermediate Rings—Installation
Fig. 22 Side Rail—Installation
1 – SIDE RAIL END
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS—FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and bent alignment tabs (Fig. 25) (Fig. 26). Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting (Fig. 27). Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con­necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
Fig. 24 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 – SIDE RAIL UPPER 2 – NO. 1 RING GAP 3 – PISTON PIN 4 – SIDE RAIL LOWER 5 – NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con­necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal. (2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 28) to install the rod and pis­ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The “F”’s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas­tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen­ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
9 - 26 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Fig. 25 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 – UPPER BEARING HALF 2 – MATING EDGES 3 – GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING
JOURNAL DURING INSTALLATION
4 – WEAR PATTERN — ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER
BEARING
5 – LOWER BEARING HALF
Fig. 26 Locking Tab Inspection
1 – ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 27 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or by Damaged Crankshaft Pin Journal
Fig. 28 Piston and Connecting Rod—Installation
1 – “F” TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE 2 – OIL SLINGER SLOT 3 – RING COMPRESSOR 4 – SPECIAL TOOL 8507
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 29). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clearance. Plas-
tigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace­ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
(8) If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determin which services bearing set to use the bearing sizes are as follows:
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 27
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Fig. 29 Measuring Bearing Clearance with
Plastigage
1 – PLASTIGAGE SCALE 2 – COMPRESSED PLASTIGAGE
Bearing
SIZE USED WITH
Mark
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US .025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm
(.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.)
Std. STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm
(2.0076-2.0082 in.)
.250 US .250 mm 50.758-50.742 mm
(.010 in.) (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
(9) Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify
your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
(10) Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the con­necting rod and crankshaft journal flange (Fig. 30). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clear­ance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 31).
NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored, remove the engine for crankshaft repair.
Fig. 30 Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance—
Typical
Fig. 31 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
1 – UPPER INSERT 2 – NO WEAR IN THIS AREA 3 – LOW AREA IN BEARING LINING 4 – LOWER INSERT
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage. Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block.
Refer to Crankshaft in this section for procedure.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour-
9 - 28 4.7L ENGINE DN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block. Refer
to Crankshaft in this section for procedure.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
(1) Service main bearings are available in three grades. The chart below identifies the three service grades available.
GRADE SIZE mm
(in.)
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A .008 mm U/S 63.488-63.496 mm
(.0004 in.)
U/S
B STANDARD 63.496-63.504 mm
C .008 mm O/S 63.504-63.512 mm
(.0004 in.)
O/S
FOR USE WITH
(2.4996-2.4999 in.)
(2.4996-2.4999 in.)
(2.5002-2.5005 in.)
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ENGINE MOUNTS—LEFT AND RIGHT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud. Refer to Group 7. for procedure.
(3) Remove the engine oil filter.
(4) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
(5) Remove the four (4) cylinder block-to-insulator mount bolts and the nut from the engine insulator mount through bolt (4x2 Vehicles only) (Fig. 32) (Fig.
33).
(6) Remove the three (3) cylinder block-to-insulator mount bolts and loosen the nut from the engine insu­lator mount through bolt (4x4 Vehicles only) (Fig. 34) (Fig. 35).
(7) Using the jack, raise the engine high enough to remove the engine insulator mount through bolt and the insulator mount.
Fig. 32 Engine Insulator Mount 4x2 Vehicle—Left
Side
1 – ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-LEFT SIDE 2 – MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 33 Engine Insulator Mount 4x2 Vehicle—Right
Side
1 – ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-RIGHT SIDE 2 – MOUNTING BOLT
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the insulator mount and install the
insulator mount through bolt.
(2) Lower the engine until the four cylinder block-
to-insulator mount bolts can be installed.
(3) Remove the jack and block of wood. (4) Torque the cylinder block-to-insulator mount
bolts to 61N·m ( 45 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install and torque the through bolt retaining
nut to 61N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
DN 4.7L ENGINE 9 - 29
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(4) Remove the four bolts and washers retaining the mount to the transmission (4x4 automatic trans­mission only) (Fig. 38).
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the through bolt (Manual transmission and 4x2 auto­matic transmission only) (Fig. 36) (Fig. 37).
(6) Raise the transmission and remove the bolts retaining the mount to the crossmember (4x4 auto­matic transmission only) (Fig. 38).
(7) Remove the two nuts retaining the isolator to the crossmember (Manual transmission and 4x2 automatic transmission only) (Fig. 36) (Fig. 37).
(8) Remove the bolts (two bolts manual transmis­sion)(three bolts 4x2 automatic transmission) retain­ing the insulator bracket to the transmission.
Fig. 34 Engine Insulator Mount 4x4 Vehicle—Left
Side
1 – ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-LEFT SIDE 2 – MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 35 Engine Insulator Mount 4x4 Vehicle—Right
Side
1 – ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNT-RIGHT SIDE 2 – MOUNTING BOLT
ENGINE MOUNT—REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist. (2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nut from the insulator mount through bolt (Manual transmission and 4x2 auto­matic transmission only) (Fig. 36) (Fig. 37).
Fig. 36 Engine Rear Mount—4X2 Automatic
Transmission
1 – ENGINE REAR MOUNT 2 – BOLT 3 – NUT 4 – THROUGH BOLT NUT 5 – TRANSMISSION
INSTALLATION
(1) Follow the removal procedure in the reverse
order.
(2) Tighten the through bolt retaining nut to 102
N·m (75 ft. lbs.).
(3) Tighten the isolator bracket to transmission retaining bolts (Manual transmission and 4x2 auto­matic transmission only) to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.).
(4) Tighten the mount bracket to transmission retaining bolts (4x4 automatic transmission only) to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.).
(5) Tighten the isolator mount to crossmember retaining nuts (Manual transmission and 4x2 auto­matic transmission only) to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
9 - 30 4.7L ENGINE DN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
STRUCTURAL COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold. Refer to Group 11, Exhaust Sys­tem.
(3) Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-ex­haust pipe retaining bolts.
(4) Remove the eight bolts retaining structural cover (Fig. 39).
(5) Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so
Fig. 37 Engine Rear Mount—4X2 and 4X4 Manual
Transmission
1 – THROUGH BOLT 2 – BOLT 3 – INSULATOR SUPPORT 4 – NUT 5 – NUTAND WASHER 6 – INSULATOR BRACKET TO TRANSMISSION
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en­gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engine and the transmission bell housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to the cover.
Fig. 38 Engine Rear Mount—4X4 Automatic
Transmission
1 – TRANSMISSION 2 – ENGINE REAR MOUNT 3 – BOLT
(6) Tighten the mount bracket to crossmember retaining bolts (4x4 automatic transmission only) to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 39) to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 39) and (3) to 54 N·m ( 40 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Fig. 39 Structural Cover
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe retaining bolts to 20–26 N·m (15–20 ft. lbs.).
Loading...
+ 163 hidden pages