Dimplex DCF7850, EMSC Service Manual

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Page 1

Service Manual

Chelsea Freestanding Corner Fireplace

Model Number

DCF7850 EMSC

UL Part Number

6901820200

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: Always read this manual rst before attempting to service this

replace. For your safety, always comply with all warnings and safety instructions contained in this

manual to prevent personal injury or property damage.

Dimplex North America Limited

1367 Industrial Road 1-888-346-7539 www.dimplex.com

Cambridge ON Canada N1R 7G8

REV PCN DATE

00 - 17-AUG-11

7400390000R00

Page 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

OPERATION .........................................................3

MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

EXPLODED PARTS DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

WIRING DIAGRAM ....................................................6

PREPARATION FOR SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

LIGHT HARNESS REPLACEMENT .......................................7

FLICKER MOTOR/FLICKER ROD REPLACEMENT ..........................8

HEATER ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT ....................................9

SWITCH REPLACEMENT – (3-POSITION OR HEAT ON/OFF) .................9

THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER REPLACEMENT ..........................11

POWER CORD REPLACEMENT ........................................11

ASSEMBLY PART PICTURES ..........................................13

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Always use a qualied technician or service agency to repair this replace.

NOTE: Procedures and techniques that are considered important enough to emphasize.

CAUTION: Procedures and techniques which, if not carefully followed, will result in damage to the

equipment.

WARNING: Procedures and techniques which, if not carefully followed, will expose the user to the

risk of re, serious injury, or death.

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Page 3

OPERATION

The controls are located inside the door panel on the lower

side of the Corner Standing Stove (Figure 1).

Figure 1

Door Panel

EMSC Models

DCF7850 Models

Remote Control

The replace is supplied with a radio frequency remote

control. This remote control has a range of approximately 50 feet (15.25 m), it does not have to be pointed at the

replace and can pass through most obstacles (including

walls). It is supplied with one of hundreds of independent frequencies to prevent interference with other units.

NOTE: Before attempting any operation with the remote, pull the plastic insulator strip out from between

the remote casing and battery cover (Figure 2).

Remote Operation

The replace is supplied with an integrated on/off remote

control.

NOTE: Ensure that the replace 3-Position Switch is set

to the remote control setting.

To operate, push the ON button to turn replace on, push the OFF button to turn the replace off.

A. 3-Position Switch

The switch has two ON positions marked with “ Manual ”. The “ Manual ” position is for manual operation.

In this position the built-in remote control is bypassed.

The “

remote control. When in “

with the ON and OFF buttons of the remote control.

When the switch is in the center “ O ”position the unit is off.

B. Heater On/Off Switch

The Heater On/Off Switch supplies power to the heater

element. When the switch is in the ON position the heater operates if the thermostat calls for heat.

C. Heater Thermostat Control

To adjust the temperature to your individual requirements, turn the thermostat control clockwise all the way to turn on the heater. When the room reaches the desired temperature, turn the thermostat knob counter clockwise until you hear a click. Leave in this position to maintain the

room temperature at this setting. For additional heat, turn

clockwise until you hear the click again and the heater will turn on.

” position is for operating the unit with the provided

” position the unit is operated

” and “

Resetting The Temperature Cutoff Switch

Should the heater overheat, an automatic cut out will turn the replace off and it will not come back on without being reset. It can be reset by switching the 3-Position Switch to OFF and waiting ve (5) minutes before switching the unit

back on.

CAUTION: If you need to continuously reset the heater,

disconnect power and call Dimplex customer service at 1-888-DIMPLEX (1-888-346-7539).

Remote Control Initialization/Reprogramming

If the remote control or remote control receiver has been replaced, follow these steps to initialize the remote control and receiver:

Set the main power switch to OFF.1. Wait a minimum of ve (5) seconds and set the 3 2. Position Switch to the position (Figure 1A).

Within 3. 10 seconds of re-acquiring power, press the ON button located on the remote control.

NOTE: You will have only 10 seconds to perform this

last step. Failure to do so will result in these steps needing

to be followed again.

This will synchronize the remote control and receiver.

Battery Replacement

To replace the battery:

Slide battery cover open on the remote contol 1. (Figure 2).

Install one (1) 12-Volt (A23) battery in the battery 2. holder. Close the battery cover3.

Battery must be recycled or disposed of properly. Check with your Local Authority or Retailer for recycling advice in your area.

Figure 2

Button

Off Button

Plastic

Strip

Battery Cover

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MAINTENANCE

WARNING: Disconnect power before attempting any

maintenance or cleaning to reduce the risk of re,

electric shock or damage to persons.

Light Bulb Replacement

Allow at least ve (5) minutes for light bulbs and heater to

cool off before touching bulbs to avoid accidental burning of skin.

Light bulbs need to be replaced when you notice a dark

section of the ame or when the clarity and detail of the log

exterior disappears. There are two (2) bulbs under the log

set which generate the ames and embers.

Tool requirements: Phillips screwdriver.

Helpful Hints

It is a good idea to replace all light bulbs at one time if they are close to the end of their rated life. Group replacement will reduce the number of times you need to open the unit to replace light bulbs.

Light Bulb Requirements

Quantity of two (2) clear chandelier or candelabra bulbs with an E-12 (small) socket base, 60 Watt rating.

Glass Cleaning

The front glass is cleaned in the factory during the assembly operation. During shipment, installation, handling, etc., the front glass may collect dust particles, these can be removed by dusting lightly with a clean dry cloth.

To remove ngerprints or other marks, the glass can be

cleaned with a damp cloth. The glass should be completely dried with a lint free cloth to prevent water spots. To prevent scratching, do not use abrasive cleaners or spray liquids on the glass surface.

Surface Cleaning

To remove ngerprints or other marks, the exterior nish

can be cleaned with a damp cloth with a mild detergent. The surface should be completely dried with a lint free cloth to prevent water spots.

To prevent scratching, do not use abrasive cleaners or spray liquids on any surface.

Replacement:

1. Unplug the unit from the outlet.

2. Remove the rear door from the left side of the unit by

unfastening one (1) Phillips screw (Figure 3). Set the

door and screw aside.

3. Reach inside opening to remove the bulb(s). Remove the nearest bulb before attempting to remove the further bulb. Bulbs are unscrewed in counter-clockwise direction.

4. Insert new bulb(s).

5. Replace rear door and fasten in place.

6. Plug in the Corner Standing Stove.

Figure 3

Screw

Rear Door

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Bottom of unit

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EXPLODED PARTS DIAGRAM

Replacement Parts List

Replacement Part:

Log Set1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0439040100RP

Flicker Motor2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2000140300RP

Reector Assembly3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5900080600RP

Light Harness4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2500170200RP

Partially Reective Glass5. . . . . . . . . . . . .5900470100RP

Thermostat6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2300150100RP*

3-Position Switch7. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2800071100RP

Thermostat Control Knob8. . . . . . . . . . . .8800620100RP

Heater ON/OFF Switch9. . . . . . . . . . . . . .2800070700RP

Remote Control Receiver10. . . . . . . . . . . .3000380200RP

Blower and Heater Assembly11. . . . . . . . .2000230100RP

Power Cord12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4100010300RP

Remote Control13. ...................3000370500RP

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WIRING DIAGRAM

Lampholder

wire

assembly

RECEIVER, REMOTE CONTROL

Flicker Motor

Cord

Wide blade (N)

Narrow Blade (L)

Switch

Lamp

Switch

THERMOSTAT

1212

Blower

Motor

Wire from Cutout 24 GA - Red

Element

Bank

Wire of wide blade of plug

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PREPARATION FOR SERVICE

Tools Required: Philips head screwdrivers

-Large and Medium Head

Needle nose pliers.

WARNING: If the replace was operating prior to ser- vicing, allow at least 10 minutes for light bulbs and heating elements to cool off to avoid accidental burning of skin.

WARNING: Disconnect power before attempting any maintenance to reduce the risk of electric shock or damage to persons.

Stabilizing straps may have been installed attaching 1. this corner tting cabinet to the wall on the left and right back/corner panels. If so, remove them rst by remov-

ing the screw anchoring them to the wall.

Pull the cabinet away from the wall. 2.

Unplug the replace from the outlet. 3.

On the (2) backside, corner-tting panels of the exterior 4. cabinet, release the 4 “CAM LOCKS”, (2) on the left

and (2) on the right near the top. This is done by using a large Philips head screwdriver and turning the each cam lock ¼ turn counter-clockwise until the “—” and “+” symbols line up horizontally.

With cam locks released, carefully lift the top panel off 5. the cabinet. The top panel will have long metal shafts attached to it, which are part of the interior cam lock mechanism. Be careful not to break these off.

Lay the cabinet down on the oor or your work surface, 6. onto the back/corner panel with the switches closest to the oor.

NOTE: If the surface you are using as a work area on

is a nished surface that is prone to scratches (i.e. hardwood ooring), it is recommended that a protective barrier

be used underneath, (i.e. cloth, cardboard, thick plastic).

Remove the decorative metallic grill on the front of the 7.

cabinet, which covers the heat area of the replace.

This is magnetically attached and can be remove by pulling it away starting in one of the corners or grasping it at the grill openings.

Remove the (2) brackets found inside the body of the 8.

cabinet that attach the rebox-insert to the interior of

the cabinet. There are (2) Philips screws in each of the (2) brackets.

Slide the rebox out from the top opening of the cabi-9. net.

Remove the (1) Philips screw located on the lower 10. housing back panel below the power cord.

Remove 6 screws in total from the “bottom” heater-11. housing panel, (2) on the bottom left edge, (2) on the bottom right edge, and (2) on the front face of the housing panel, just above the heat vent. Once screws are removed from the left panel, you will have to turn the

rebox ¼ turn so that it rests on the right back panel with the switches being farthest away from the oor.

Once these screws are removed, pull off the bottom 12.

heater-housing panel and rest it just in front of the

replace.

NOTE: Wires inside the heater housing are attached to the panels with mountable wire ties so the panel cannot be moved very far.

Release the mountable wire-ties from the heater-hous-13. ing panel by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the wire-tie tab ends from the exterior side of the panels.

Squeeze the tabs enough to reduce the spread of the

tabs and push it through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these tabs, gently pull on the wire tie from inside the panel, (opposite side) until it comes through. This will free up the wires and allow more room to access parts.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore they should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Proceed to the next instructions in the manual relating 14. to the repair being performed.

LIGHT HARNESS REPLACEMENT

Tools required: Phillips head screw driver.

Needle nosed pliers.

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the “upper” heater-1. housing panel located on the panel, above the remote control receiver.

These screws are along the edge of this upper panel 2. where it meets the side:

a. (2) screws on the bottom near the back left, b. (2) screws on the bottom near the back right, c. (2) screws on the bottom near the center front of this middle panel.

Carefully pull this panel down as long as the length of 3. the wires will allow. The wires are secured by wire ties to this panel and do not allow much space for access.

Through the slight gap between the upper housing 4.

panel and the upper cavity of the rebox, use needle

nose pliers to release all of the wire-ties from the lower panels by squeezing the wire-tie tab ends from the

outside of the panels. See order of releasing wire tabs

below.

With the needle nose pliers, squeeze the wire tie tabs 5. enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push it through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these tabs, gently pull on the wire and tie from the opposite side of the panel until it comes free. This will free up the wires so you can re-position the panels in a way to allow more room for parts access.

6. NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when

service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Release wire tie mounting tabs in the following order: 7.

a. Start with the wire ties below the remote control

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receiver on the back left side panel. b. Proceed to the wire ties along the upper housing

panel above the receiver, (below the icker rod) and

work your way from left to right. c. The last tab to be released will be right below the light bulb on the right.

Pull this upper panel farther down as much as you can 8. it to allow access to the light sockets and wire harness from the back.

Remove the (2) wire nuts on the interior side of the 9. panel that connect the light harness wires to their power source.

NOTE: Both light harness wires are black. Take note of which wires are secured with which wire nut. The ribbed black wire is the “Neutral” and goes with the group of neutral white wires, which are connected with one wire nut). The smooth black wire from the light harness is the “Load” “L1” wire, and is grouped with another black and a red wire in the other wire nut.

Remove the light bulbs located on the socket mounting 10. bracket, behind the upper-housing panel by unscrewing them counter-clockwise.

Remove the sockets by turning the socket rings counter 11. clockwise; then pushing each socket out of the mounting bracket.

Light harness wires are fed through an opening below 12. the bracket to the wire nuts on the interior of the housing. Pull the light harness wires out from this opening and feed the wires from the new light harness through this opening. Reconnect each wire to the appropriate wire nuts as mentioned in the “NOTE” above in step 9.

Unscrew rings from the new sockets. Position the 13. new sockets into the correct openings on the mounting bracket and secure the sockets into place by turning the rings clockwise onto the thread on each socket.

Push all of the mountable wire ties back into the cor-14. rect holes on the housing panels making sure they are secure. You will have to move the panel up closer into the upper cavity. This will greatly reduce the amount of lead or give in the wires and the workspace, on the unit.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox in reverse order, taking care 15. that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels and no wires

are touching the heater assembly blower/fan once re-

assembled.

FLICKER MOTOR/FLICKER ROD REPLACEMENT

Tools required: Phillips head screw driver.

Needle nosed pliers.

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the “upper” heater-1. housing panel located on the panel, above the remote control receiver.

These screws are along the edge of this upper panel 2. where it meets the side:

a. (2) screws on the bottom near the back left, b. (2) screws on the bottom near the back right, c. (2) screws on the bottom near the center front of this middle panel.

Carefully pull this panel down as long as the length of 3. the wires will allow. There won’t be much space because of the wire ties attached to the panel.

Through the slight gap between the upper housing 4.

panel and the upper cavity of the rebox, use needle

nose pliers to release all of the wire-ties from the lower panels by squeezing the wire-tie tab ends from the

outside of the panels. See order of releasing wire tabs

below.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Release wire tie mounting tabs in the following order: 6.

a. Start with the wire ties below the remote control

receiver on the back left side panel. b. Proceed to the wire ties along the upper housing panel above the remote control receiver, (below the

icker rod) and work your way from left to right.

c. The last tab to be released will be right below the light bulb on the right.

Pull this upper panel farther down as much as you can 7.

to allow access to the icker motor and bracket above

this panel.

Remove the 2 screws on the right side of the upper 8.

housing panel that holds the icker motor bracket on

above it.

Carefully slide the left side of the icker motor rod out 9. of the plastic bushing in the left bracket (closest to the thermostat).

Remove the icker rod off the icker motor by grasping 10. the rod and rubber gasket attached to the motor shaft, then twist and pull away from the motor until comes off

the motor shaft. Set the rod aside.

Remove the 2 screws that attach the icker motor to 11. the icker motor mounting bracket noting the orienta-

tion of the motor.

Disconnect (unscrew) the wire nuts that attach the 12.

icker motor wires to their power source located inside

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Page 9

heater housing area and pull through the wire tie to free up the motor.

NOTE: The white wire connects to the wire nut connecting the other white or neutral wires. The black wire connects to the wire nut connecting the red from the switch and the smooth black from the light harness.

Attach the white and the black wires of the new icker 13. motor back into the respective wire nuts.

Attach the icker motor to the icker motor mounting 14. bracket.

Attach the icker rod, - twist and push the icker rod 15. and rubber gasket onto the shaft of the new icker mo-

tor.

Slide the left side of the icker rod into the plastic bush-16. ing in the left bracket.

NOTE: Make sure that the rod has not bent. This can

cause the reectors to rub against the housing, making a

noise when in operation.

Reconnect the icker motor bracket on the right to the 17. middle housing panel with the 2 screws to the bottom housing panel.

Push all of the mountable wire ties back into the cor-18. rect holes on the housing panels making sure they are secure. You will have to move the panel up closer into the upper cavity. This will greatly reduce the amount of lead or give in the wires and the workspace, on the unit.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox in reverse order, taking care 19. that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels and no wires

are touching the heater assembly blower/fan once re-

assembled.

HEATER ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver

Needle nose pliers

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Use needle nose pliers to release the wire ties below 1. the remote control receiver, which hold the wires onto the panels, as well as any other ties on the right side that may obstruct access.

With the pliers, squeeze the wire tie tabs on the back-2. side of the panel enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push it through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these tabs, pull on the wire tie from inside the panel, (opposite side) until it comes free. This will free up the wires so you can re-position the heaterhousing panel in a way to allow more room for access.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Turn the heater-housing panel over and remove the 4 3. screws, which attach the housing panel to the heater assembly bracket. Lay the panel down again.

Remove the 4 screws attaching the bracket onto the 4. heater assembly.

Remove the wires connected to the heater assembly 5. at the motor and elements on the right hand side. Be sure to note their original locations and reconnect onto the new heater assembly in the same position.

Re-attach the bracket to the heater assembly and then 6. to the lower heater housing panel.

Push all of the mountable wire ties back into the cor-7. rect holes on the housing panels making sure they are secure. You will have to move the panel up closer into the upper cavity. This will greatly reduce the amount of lead or give in the wires and the workspace, on the unit.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox and cabinet in reverse order, 8. taking care that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels

and no wires are touching the heater assembly blower/

fan once re-assembled.

SWITCH REPLACEMENT – (3-POSITION OR HEAT ON/OFF)

Tools required: Phillips head screw driver.

Needle nosed pliers.

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the “upper” heater-1. housing panel located on the panel, above the remote control receiver.

These screws are along the edge of this upper panel 2.

where it meets the side: a. (2) screws on the bottom near the back left, b. (2) screws on the bottom near the back right, c. (2) screws on the bottom near the center front of this middle panel.

Carefully pull this panel down as long as the length of 3.

the wires will allow. There won’t be much space be-

cause of the wire ties attached to the panel.

Through the slight gap between the upper housing 4.

panel and the upper cavity of the rebox, use needle

nose pliers to release all of the wire-ties from the lower

panels by squeezing the wire-tie tab ends from the

outside of the panels. See order of releasing wire tabs

below.

With the needle nose pliers, squeeze the wire tie tabs 5.

enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push it

through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these

tabs, gently pull on the wire and tie from the opposite

side of the panel until it comes free. This will free up

Page 10

the wires so you can re-position the panels in a way to allow more room for parts access.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Release wire tie mounting tabs in the following order: 6.

a. Start with the wire ties below the remote control

receiver on the back left side panel. b. Proceed to the wire ties along the upper housing

panel above the receiver, (below the icker rod) and

work your way from left to right. c. The last tab to be released will be right below the light bulb on the right.

Pull this upper panel farther down as much as you can 7. and reposition it to allow access to the switch housing above this panel on the top right hand side.

Locate the switch being replaced, (either the 3-Position 8.

or the Heat ON/OFF switch).

Take note of the original location of each wire con-9. nected to the switch that needs replacing and pull them off. Some may have a “Piggy-Back” connection, connecting 2 wires on to one prong on the switch. It may be helpful to try and keep these two wires together for re-assembly.

Note the orientation of the switches. Depress the tabs 10. on the short ends of the switch that secure the switch to the housing from behind the panel, and push the switch out through the front. Using needle nosed pliers

will give you a better grip and t to depress both these

tabs at the same time.

Push the new switch in place following the original 11. orientation.

Push all of the mountable wire ties back into the cor-12. rect holes on the housing panels making sure they are secure. You will have to move the panel up closer into the upper cavity. This will greatly reduce the amount of lead or give in the wires and the workspace, on the unit.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox and cabinet in reverse order, 13. taking care that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels

and no wires are touching the heater assembly blower/

fan once re-assembled.

THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT

Tools required: Phillips head screw driver (both small and

medium size head)

Needle nosed pliers.

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the “upper” heater-1. housing panel located on the panel, above the remote control receiver.

These screws are along the edge of this upper panel 2.

where it meets the side: a. (2) screws on the bottom near the back left, b. (2) screws on the bottom near the back right, c. (2) screws on the bottom near the center front of this middle panel.

Carefully pull this panel down as long as the length of 3.

the wires will allow. There won’t be much space be-

cause of the wire ties attached to the panel.

Through the slight gap between the upper housing 4.

panel and the upper cavity of the rebox, use needle

nose pliers to release all of the wire-ties from the lower

panels by squeezing the wire-tie tab ends from the

outside of the panels. See order of releasing wire tabs

below.

With the needle nose pliers, squeeze the wire tie tabs 5.

enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push it

through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these

tabs, gently pull on the wire and tie from the opposite

side of the panel until it comes free. This will free up

the wires so you can re-position the panels in a way to

allow more room for parts access.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Release wire tie mounting tabs in the following order: 6.

a. Start with the wire ties below the remote control

receiver on the back left side panel. b. Proceed to the wire ties along the upper housing

panel above the receiver, (below the icker rod) and

work your way from left to right. c. The last tab to be released will be right below the light bulb on the right.

Pull this upper panel farther down as much as you can 7. and reposition it to allow access to the switch housing above this panel on the top right hand side.

Locate the thermostat control dial on the left hand side 8.

on the front of the replace and pull it forward, off the

shaft of the thermostat control.

Remove the 2 screws that fasten the thermostat control 9. to the front panel. These screws require a small head on a Philips screwdriver.

Carefully guide the thermostat down and out through 10. the opening underneath the thermostat housing.

Disconnect the 2 wires from the thermostat, noting their 11. original location and reconnect onto the new thermo-

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Page 11

stat.

Re-position the new thermostat back into the original 12. opening and re-attach the thermostat to the front panel using the two original small screws.

Align the thermostat dial in the correct position and 13. push it back onto the shaft of the thermostat control.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox and cabinet in reverse order, 15. taking care that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels

and no wires are touching the heater assembly blower/

fan once re-assembled.

REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER REPLACEMENT

Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver

Needle nose pliers

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

NOTE: Step 14 (releasing of wire ties on back panel)

may not be required. Use your own discretion.

Locate the remote receiver mounted on the back left 1. panel of the middle housing cover.

Remove the 3 wires from the receiver noting their origi-2. nal location.

Remove the remote control receiver noting it’s orienta-3. tion on the panel. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze the ends of the 4 “stand-off” mounting tabs enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push them through the mounting hole on the receiver board. While squeezing these tabs, gently pull the board away from the back panel until it comes free.

NOTE: These “standoffs” will be re-inserted onto the new board therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement connectors.

Align the new receiver board mounting holes with the 4. “standoffs” in the original orientation, and push the new remote control receiver onto the “standoffs” making sure the board is secure. If the “stand-off” mounting tabs are not securing properly, it is likely from originally squeezing them with the pliers during removal. Use

a at instrument to just slightly spread the tabs farther

apart.

Reconnect the 3 wires onto the receiver board. 5.

NOTE: Wire colors may vary from the original following description.

- Orange from “ON/OFF” switch onto JP1 – “L” on

the board.

- Tan (darker orange/red) from “Heater” switch onto JP2 on the board

- White from group of neutrals with a wire nut onto

JP3 on the board.

Re-assemble the rebox and cabinet in reverse order, 6.

taking care that the wires above on the left and right of the housing panels are touching the heater assembly

blower/fan once re-assembled.

POWER CORD REPLACEMENT

Tools required: Phillips head screw driver.

Needle nosed pliers.

CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions

before proceeding.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the “upper” heater-1. housing panel located on the panel, above the remote control receiver.

These screws are along the edge of this upper panel 2.

where it meets the side: a. (2) screws on the bottom near the back left, b. (2) screws on the bottom near the back right, c. (2) screws on the bottom near the center front of this middle panel.

Carefully pull this panel down as long as the length of 3.

the wires will allow. There won’t be much space be-

cause of the wire ties attached to the panel.

Through the slight gap between the upper housing 4.

panel and the upper cavity of the rebox, use needle

nose pliers to release all of the wire-ties from the lower

panels by squeezing the wire-tie tab ends from the

outside of the panels. See order of releasing wire tabs

below.

With the needle nose pliers, squeeze the wire tie tabs 5.

enough to reduce the spread of the tabs and push it

through the hole on the panel. While squeezing these

tabs, pull on the wire and tie from the opposite side of

the panel until it comes free. This will free up the wires

so you can re-position the panels in a way to allow

more room for parts access.

NOTE: These wire ties will be re-inserted when service is complete therefore should not be cut off unless you have the same type of replacement ties.

Release wire tie mounting tabs in the following order: 6.

a. Start with the wire ties below the remote control

receiver on the back left side panel. b. Proceed to the wire ties along the upper housing

panel above the receiver, (below the icker rod) and

work your way from left to right. c. The last tab to be released will be right below the light bulb on the right.

Pull this upper panel farther down as much as you can 7. and reposition it to allow access to the switch housing above this panel on the top right hand side.

Locate the 3-Position Switch. 8.

Page 12

One lead of the power cord is a “Piggy-Back” connec-9. tion at the 3-Position switch, which connects 2 wires on to one prong on the switch.

Separate the orange wire from the “Piggy-back” con-10. nector on the white wire from the power cord.

Disconnect the wire nut connected to the other half of 11. the power cord with the group of white “neutral” wires.

With a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze the strain 12. relief bushing that holds the power cord in place onto the back panel remove the cord.

Feed the new power cord through the back panel and 13. squeeze the new strain relief in place on the cord and then onto the back panel.

Re-connect wires at the “ON/OFF” switch and the wire 14. nut.

Push all of the mountable wire ties back into the cor-15. rect holes on the housing panels making sure they are secure. You will have to move the panel up closer into the upper cavity. This will greatly reduce the amount of lead or give in the wires and the workspace, on the unit.

NOTE: If the wire ties are not securing properly, use a

at instrument to slightly spread the tabs farther apart and

then re-insert into the appropriate holes in the panel.

Re-assemble the rebox and cabinet in reverse order, 16. taking care that the wires are guided through the cutout openings on the left and right of the housing panels

and no wires are touching the heater assembly blower/

fan once re-assembled.

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Page 13

Thermostat Control Dial

Flicker Rod & Left

Bracket

Remote Control Receiver

ASSEMBLY PART PICTURES

Heater On/Off Switch

3-Position Switch

Flicker Motor and

Mounting Bracket

Bottom Heater Housing Panel

Heater Assembly

Light Bulbs - 2 Small Base Candelabra Bulbs

Upper Heater Housing Panel

Power Cord

Light Harness Sockets

Interior View of

Flicker Rod

Back side of Upper Heater Housing Panel

Socket Rings

Sockets in Socket Mounting

Bracket

Light/Wire Harness

Page 14

Example of Mountable Wire Tie

Heater Assembly Connections

Blower/Fan

Fan Motor

Connector to Thermostat (White)

“Piggy Back” to

Heater Switch

Elements

Red Wire Connects Motor to Heater Elements (comes already attached)

“Piggy Back” from Upper Element to Heater Motor

Top and Bottom Element Connection

Electrical Connections in Heater Housing

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1st Wire Nut Whites from:

Thermostat• Power Cord•

Flicker Motor• Remote Control Receiver “N” JP3•

Black (Ribbed) from Light Harness•

2nd Wire Nut:

Red from Heater ON/OFF Switch• Black from Flicker Motor• Black (Smooth) from Light Harness.•

Power Cord – comes in though back panel.

Ribbed half of cord goes to the Neutral Connection • in Yellow Wire Nut.

Smooth half of cord goes to the 3-Position Switch•

Page 15

Heater Assembly Connections

Heater On/Off

Switch

Black Wire from Heater Assembly

Jumper from Middle Prong of On/Off Switch

NOTE: Not a Piggy Back

Connector but has 2 wires into

one blade connector at the ON/ OFF Switch

Thermostat Control

3-Position Switch

Tan Wire Connects to JP2 on

Remote Control Receiver

Connects to Heater On/Off Switch and to the Lampholder

Wire Assembly

NOTE: Not a Piggy Back

Connector but has 2 wires

Connects to the “L” on the Remote Control Receiver

White on Power Cord

Remote Control Receiver

“N” (JP3) - Connects to Wire Nut with White wires

in Heater Housing

Switch Output (JP2) - Connects to On side of

3-Position Switch

Orange “L” JP1 from 3-Position Switch – Piggy

Backed to Power Cord.

Stand Off Mounting Tabs

Page 16

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

General

Circuit breaker trips or fuse blows when unit is turned on

Unit turns on or off by itself Remote control has a similar frequency

Lights dim in room while the unit is on

Power cord gets warm Normal Operation The power cord may get slightly warm to the touch

Appearance

Fireplace does not turn on Manually

Fireplace does not turn on using

the Remote Control

Flame Frozen Loose wiring Check wiring connections

Flame not bright or ame not

visible

Log set dim, ember bed not glowing

Log set not glowing/pulsing Loose wiring harness Check wiring connections

Flame Shudder Defective icker motor Replace icker motor

Light leaking around the log set Log set not positioned properly Check log set for proper t

Short in unit wiring. Trace wiring in unit.

Improper circuit current rating Additional appliances may exceed the current rating

of the circuit breaker or fuse. Plug unit into another outlet or install unit on a dedicated 15 amp circuit.

Replace Remote Control and initialize where neces-

to other remotes in the area.

Radio frequency disturbance from outside sources.

Defective Remote Control Receiver Replace Remote Control Receiver

Unit is drawing close to circuit current rating

Defective power cord Replace power cord if cord gets hot to the touch.

Improper operation Refer to Operation Section

No incoming power from the electrical wall socket

Loose wiring Check wiring connections

Defective Switch (3-Position or On/Off) Replace defective switch

Defective Remote Control Receiver Replace Remote Control Receiver

Improper operation Refer to Operation Section

Remote control not initialized to replace Initialize the remote control

Remote Control not working properly Install new battery into the Remote Control. Reinitial-

Defective icker motor Replace icker motor

Burnt out light bulbs Replace light bulbs

Loose wiring Check wiring connections

Defective light harness Replace light harness

Burnt out light bulbs Replace light bulbs

Defective Remote Control Receiver Replace Remote Control Receiver

sary.

Replace the remote control and receiver board where necessary.

Move the unit to another outlet or install unit on a dedicated 15 amp circuit

when the heater is on

Check Fuse/Breaker Panel

ize remote control where necessary.

Replace Remote Control or Remote Control Receiver, where necessary. Initialize Remote Control and Receiver.

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Page 17

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

Heater

Heater is not turning off Improper operation Refer to Operation Section

Defective Heater On/Off Switch Replace Heater On/Off Switch

Defective Thermostat Replace Thermostat

Defective Remote Control Receiver Replace Remote Control Receiver

Heater is not turning on, but

ame effect is still functioning

Heater is turning off after a couple of minutes of operation

Heater emits an odor Normal Operation Normal operation is when the heater emits an odor

Heater fan turns on but heater lacks heat

Heating element is glowing red Normal Operation Small glowing sections of the element are considered

Heater fan runs continuously Loose wiring Trace wiring in unit

Noise

Excessive noise with the heater onDirty blower assembly Clean blower assembly

Grinding or excessive noise with the heater off

Improper operation Refer to Operation Section

Loose Wiring Trace wiring in unit

Defective Heater On/Off switch Replace Heater On/Off switch

Defective Thermostat Replace Thermostat

Defective Heater assembly Replace Heater assembly

Build up of dirt/dust in heater assembly Ensure that exterior intake louvers and rebox cavity

are free of dirt/dust.

Defective Heater Assembly Replace Heater Assembly

for a brief period after the heater is initially turned on. The heater is burning off any dust accumulated during manufacturing or operation.

Defective Heater Assembly Replace Heater Assembly

Improper operation Refer to Operation Section

Loose wiring Trace wiring in unit

Defective Heater Assembly Replace Heater Assembly

normal.

Defective Heater Assembly If larger glowing sections are causing the heater to trip

the thermal cutout, unplug unit, discontinue use and replace heater assembly.

Defective heater on/off switch Replace heater on/off switch

Defective thermostat Replace thermostat

Defective heater assembly Replace heater assembly

Defective blower assembly Replace heater assembly

Moving icker rod hitting or rubbing

against internal components

Defective icker motor Replace icker motor

Ensure rod is straight and mounted properly in the bracket, spinning freely away from other components. Replace if necessary.