Dillenger APACHE User Manual

Download

Page 1

APACHE

User Manual

This manual describes how to safely complete nal assembly

and includes tips for use and maintenance

English

Page 2

SAFETY

PLEASE NOTE

Mechanical Safety Check:

Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform

a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated

within the range given on the tyre sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.

Your First Ride:

Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new electric bike.

We highly recommend the purchase of the Dillenger electric bike repair toolkit. It will make your setup and ongoing maintenance much easier. This can be purchased online.

Thank you for purchasing your new Dillenger electric bike! We know you’ll love it, and with some care it should last for a very long time. Please read through this manual carefully before

beginning nal assembly.

THANK YOU

Page 3

ITEM CHECK LIST

Each electric bike is assembled under the most strict quality control standards. Upon completion, each electric bike is test ridden by a technician inside the assembly factory to check that every function and adjustment on the bike is perfect.

Item Check list:

• Electric bike with front wheel and handlebars

• Charger box (this may container other important parts)

• Pedals (left and right) please note the left and right pedals are not identical

• Any loose boxes may container other parts, such as a light (if where a light is provided or

purchase) so please check all packaging thoroughly

Page 4

Contents

THANK YOU 2

SAFETY 2

ITEM CHECK LIST 3

SUMMARY OF FINAL SETUP 5

UNBOXING 6

MAIN PARTS 7

FRONT WHEEL 9

HANDLEBARS 10

PEDALS 13

SEAT 14

FOLDING HANDLEBARS (20” MODEL ONLY) 15

FOLDING FRAME 16

FOLDING FRAME CONTINUED... 17

BATTERY OPERATION 18

LCD OPERATION 20

IMPORTANT POINTS 20

CHARGING 21

MAINTENANCE 22

TROUBLESHOOTING 23

TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED... 24

TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED... 25

Your Dillenger bike is fully assembled in our factory and tested to our high standards.

To t into an appropriately sized shipping carton to comply with the various courier

networks, some basic parts of the bike are temporarily removed. This is so that the bike

can t into the shipping carton safely, and so that we can adequately package each part of

the bike so that it is delivered in perfect condition.

These simple instruction will show you how to perform the nal setup. Your bike may

arrive in a more assembled state than what is shown here. These are the steps required

for most customers (packaging and nal assembly can vary by country).

In summary, these are the main steps.

Step 1, Unpacking/ Unboxing

Step 2, Identify the pieces that require nal assembly

Step 3, Front wheel fastening

Step 4, Handlebar alignment and fastening

Step 5, Left and right side pedals

Step 6, Seat

Tools required:

Allen keys (5 and 6mm)

Spanner (15mm)

These are provided and can be found in the charger box.

Other equipment not provided:

Bike pump (or service station car tyre pump)

Page 5

SUMMARY OF FINAL SETUP

Your Dillenger bike is fully assembled in our factory and tested to our high standards.

To t into an appropriately sized shipping carton to comply with the various courier

networks, some basic parts of the bike are temporarily removed. This is so that the bike

can t into the shipping carton safely, and so that we can adequately package each part of

the bike so that it is delivered in perfect condition.

These simple instruction will show you how to perform the nal setup. Your bike may

arrive in a more assembled state than what is shown here. These are the steps required

for most customers (packaging and nal assembly can vary by country).

In summary, these are the main steps.

Step 1, Unpacking/ Unboxing

Step 2, Identify the pieces that require nal assembly

Step 3, Front wheel fastening

Step 4, Handlebar alignment and fastening

Step 5, Left and right side pedals

Step 6, Seat

Tools required:

Allen keys (5 and 6mm)

Spanner (15mm)

These are provided and can be found in the charger box.

Other equipment not provided:

Bike pump (or service station car tyre pump)

Page 6

UNBOXING

Unboxing your Dillenger will be very exciting, but it’s important to take care when unboxing the bike as it’s possible to accidentally damage the bike or misplace crucial parts. It’s also much easier to unbox the bike with someone to help you.

Remove the protective packaging from the bike carefully with a pair of scissors or a box cutter. Make sure you don’t misplace any components in the lose packaging (there can be quite a lot of protective packaging used).

After you’ve taken your Dillenger out of it’s shipping carton, you should have these parts:

1. The Complete Bike

2. Front Wheel

PLEASE NOTE

The keys will be securely fastened to the frame or handlebars of your bike. Make sure you do not lose these as they are coded and a

replacement set can only be tted in a Dillenger factory.

Page 7

MAIN PARTS

After you’ve taken your Dillenger out of it’s shipping carton, you should have these parts:

1. The Complete Bike

2. Front Wheel

Page 8

3. Handlebars (Attached by the Cabling)

4. Charger

5. Pedals

Note: These can be in the same box as the charger, or fastened to the bike separately.

6. Seat

Note: These can be in the shipping carton or fastened to the bike separately.

Simply insert the front wheel into the front forks, with the brake disk lined up to t into

the brake calipers. Insert the washer on both sides of the wheel such that the ‘hook’ part

of the wheel ts into the slot where the axle enters. Screw on nuts and tighten with 15mm

spanner.

Note: It may be easier to do this step with the bike ipped over on its seat and handlebars. Just be careful of the display on the ground you are constructing on.

Page 9

FRONT WHEEL

Simply insert the front wheel into the front forks, with the brake disk lined up to t into

the brake calipers. Insert the washer on both sides of the wheel such that the ‘hook’ part

of the wheel ts into the slot where the axle enters. Screw on nuts and tighten with 15mm

spanner.

Note: It may be easier to do this step with the bike ipped over on its seat and handlebars. Just be careful of the display on the ground you are constructing on.

Wheel is place into the axle slot on the front forks

Washer is place on axle as shown above and the nut is fastened securely

Page 10

Stem and handlebars are now in position on the headtube.

HANDLEBARS

The handlebars will be connected by the cables and wires, all that’s required for nal

setup is to mount the handlebar stem onto the head tube as shown here:

You can remove a number of the black spacer rings on the head tube, leaving 2. These 2 can be placed in any arrangement. In these photos we have the handlebars in the highest position, with 2 spacers under the stem. Make sure none of the cables are twisted or too tight (you may have the handlebars twisted). Tighten as shown here, making sure the handlebars are aligned to the front wheel. This step fastens the stem down onto the headtube to remove any vertical play:

Page 11

Stem and handlebars are now in position on the headtube.

Page 12

All bicycles (electric bikes included) have left and right side pedals. Make sure you identify each one. This image shows how to identify each pedal. You can see the ‘R’ written on this pedal, denoting this is the right side pedal, to be used on the right side of the bike (if you were sitting on the bike).

The right side pedal mounts to the right side crank (if you were sitting on the bike) and left side pedal on the left crank. The right side pedal is a right hand thread, it will tighten by turning clockwise (normal). The left side pedal is a left hand thread and will tighten by turning anticlockwise (opposite normal). It is essential not to confuse which pedal is used where and not to cross thread the pedal. If it feels too tight, you might have made a mistake.

The pedals are designed this way so that the act of pedaling (while riding) does not loosen the pedals over time.

Screw in the pedals as described above for both left and right. Depending on the type of pedal

Align the handlebars sp that the wheel and handlebar stem are ‘parallel‘ and fasten the

stem onto the headtube. Tighten each side evenly. This is the nal step in fastening the

handlebars correctly.

Align the handlebars and fasten the stem onto the headtube by tightening each allen bolt

evenly using the provide allen keys

Page 13

PEDALS

Pedal sides are denoted with ‘L‘ and ‘R‘ as shown circled red in above photo

The pedals are designed this way so that the act of pedaling (while riding) does not loosen the pedals over time.

Screw in the pedals as described above for both left and right. Depending on the type of pedal

they can be tightened using an allen key on the inside as shown above or by tightening with a

spanner inbetween the pedal and the crank (model dependant).

Page 14

SEAT

This is the easy part. Simply insert your seat to the desired height (about hip height) as shown below:

The seat clamp is aligned with the groove and loosly tightened using thumb screw

The seat is placed into the hole and adjusted to the desired height then the clamp is closed to

lock the seat in position

Page 15

Probably the most popular feature of a fodling bike is its ability to moved or stored in

places that a bike wouldn’t normally t. Following the following steps to fold down your

bikes handlebars.

1. Locate the clamp section on the handlebars

2. Loosen clamp by rotating screw handle

3. Gently lower the handlebars down ensure no cables are caught

4. Your handlebars are now folded down

Turn the clacmp handle anticlockwise to open the clamp

Gently lower the handlebars down

FOLDING HANDLEBARS (20” MODEL ONLY)

Page 16

FOLDING FRAME

PLEASE NOTE

Ensure that the bike is turned o by pressing the controller button

beofre attempting to fold the bike.

Following the following steps to folding you bike into its folded state:

1. Locate pedals and fold pedals up (Optionally remove seat for more space)

2. Locate the clamp section on the frame and check the bike if turned o

3. Undo black safety latch and open lever lock

4. Using two hands rotate open the frame

5. Continue to rotate the frame around ensuring no cables get caught in the process.

6. Lay bike onto support fram below crank set

Step 1: Push pedal into the crank and rotate

Step 2 and 3: Undo Safety Latch

Page 17

FOLDING FRAME CONTINUED...

Step 3 and 4: Push pedal into the crank and rotate

Step 5 and 6: Lay bike onto support frame located under the crank set

Congratulations you have now successfully folded your Dillenger bike for storage or easy transport.

Page 18

BATTERY OPERATION

The battery for your Dillenger is the most expensive single component and the most crucial. The battery can be removed following these steps. Use the key provided to unlock the battery:

The key hole and charging plug is located on the bottom of the frame near the folding join

The key is placed in the smaller hole of the two. Turn the key from anticlockwise to unlock and

clockwise to lock (while looking at the key, opposite if looking down at the frame while turning).

To remove the battery the bike must be in its folded state (see Folding Section). Once folded and key is turned to the unlocked position. The battery is located on inside the right side of the frame. pull the handle to remove. If the battery does not come out check the key position and try again.

Remove the battery by pulling the handle shown above after unlocking the battery with the key

You may remove the battery to charge or the battery can be charged in the frame. For transport by car, we recommend taking the battery out of the bike and storing inside the car, in a safe place. When mounting the battery back into the frame, insert it in the

same fashion that it was removed. The base of the battery should be inserted rst and

pushed into the frame of the bike slowly. Once the battery is reinsterted into the bike the

key should be locked. It is a tight t and this may take a couple of attempts to become procient.

It is very important that the battery is locked into place before you use the bike again. Pull

gently on the battery handle to make sure it is denitely locked.

Place the battery back into the chassis and checked that it is secure and locked by gently pulling

Page 19

Remove the battery by pulling the handle shown above after unlocking the battery with the key

same fashion that it was removed. The base of the battery should be inserted rst and

pushed into the frame of the bike slowly. Once the battery is reinsterted into the bike the

key should be locked. It is a tight t and this may take a couple of attempts to become procient.

It is very important that the battery is locked into place before you use the bike again. Pull

gently on the battery handle to make sure it is denitely locked.

Place the battery back into the chassis and checked that it is secure and locked by gently pulling

the handle

Page 20

LCD OPERATION

We have an LCD manual on the product page online, or follow this link:

Dillenger C965 Manual

IMPORTANT POINTS

Please consider these important points for best use:

Keys:

The keys for your bike are zip tied to your handlebars. You will have 2 keys so please keep one as a spare separately. Replacing keys can only be done in the Dillenger Warehouse.

Battery Indicator:

The battery light indicator on the battery is not an indication of battery charge. The only approximation of battery charge level is on the LCD display. The only accurate way to know that the bike is 100% charged is by charging it until the charger light shows it is fully charged (next page). Conversely, the only way to accurately know that the battery

is at is to use the bike until the LCD cuts out and does not turn back on. You do not risk damaging the electric system by running the bike at. Just make sure you charge the bike

after every ride.

Maintenence:

Make sure you routinely check the tightness of key fasteners (nuts and bolts) such as the front wheel, rear wheel, seat, handlebars, forks, pedals, brakes, etc.

Battery Charge:

Make sure you keep the battery topped up as often as practical. Charge the bike after every use, at least once a month if not being used and before each ride if you have not charged it in a week. It is not necessary to run the battery down at all. Leaving the battery

at runs the risk of completely depleting the cells which could cause premature battery

failure.

Tyre Pressure:

Make sure your tyres are pumped up to the correct PSI, which is indicated on the tyre side wall.

Power Switch:

The battery has an on/o switch located near the handle. You must turn the switch on before powering up the bike, and turn it o after use. The LCD display turns the system

on, once the battery is turned on.

1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/ outlet, just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.

2. Check that one of the charger indicator lights glows green.

3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the battery plug carefully, making sure it is all the way in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.

4. The charger indicator lights should glow red whilst charging.

5. Once one of the charger indicator lights changes from green to red, the battery is fully charged.

There is no way to over-charge the battery. When it is full, the charger will stop charging the battery automatically.

Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if fully empty.

The battery should be charged once every month as a minimum to maintain healthy cells.

The best way to charge your battery is to plug it in after every use, and leave it on charge until the indicator light shows the battery is fully charged. It is not good practice to partially charge the battery.

Page 21

CHARGING

1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/ outlet, just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.

2. Check that one of the charger indicator lights glows green.

3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the battery plug carefully, making sure it is all the way in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.

4. The charger indicator lights should glow red whilst charging.

5. Once one of the charger indicator lights changes from green to red, the battery is fully charged.

There is no way to over-charge the battery. When it is full, the charger will stop charging the battery automatically.

Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if fully empty.

The battery should be charged once every month as a minimum to maintain healthy cells.

Page 22

MAINTENANCE

PLEASE NOTE

Any modications to any Dillenger product that isn’t approved by

Dillenger will void your warranty.

Keep your bike clean! There’s nothing worse than having to work on a dirty bike...

Also keep in mind the usual bike maintenance like tyre pressures, brake pads, etc...

The motor is a sealed unit and requires no maintenance during the design life.

Lastly (just to reiterate) it’s important that you charge the battery at least once every month to ensure the battery maintains a safe storage level.

A little extra maintenance is required over and above a normal bicycle.

One of the main things you may come across is that your spokes need to be tightened more often than a non-electric wheel. Our wheels use 12G and 13G spokes which handle the load and torque of these motors very well, but are more susceptible to coming loose.

A spoke-tightening tool such as the one including in the Dillenger hub motor conversion toolkit, is ideal.

Check the tightness of each spoke ideally

after the rst 100km and then every 500km.

As well as caring for your spoke tension it’s important to do a check on all of your fasteners every few months. It never hurts to go over your bike with tools, tightening and checking everything that can be checked. This will ensure you have a safe and well-serviced bike.

Page 23

TROUBLESHOOTING

Fault Solution

Display turns on, but

motor does not Activate

Check the motor plug from the controller. This is a very sti

connection and will not work unless the plug is all the way in to the indicator line. The twisting of the handlebars can sometimes cause the plug to pull out slightly if there is not enough slack in the motor cable.

A high pitched rattling

noise can be heard when accelerating

The vibration of the motor is very small, but at this frequency it can do some odd things to the other components on the bike if they are loose. For example a loose spoke or even a bolt on your rear rack. If something is just a little bit loose, sometimes this can reverberate and make a harsh high pitch rattling sound. Nothing is broken or wrong, you just have to identify the loose part!

Rim has a buckle or

spokes coming loose

all the time

We would recommend a competent wheel builder to x any

major spoke tension issues, however there are some really good youtube tutorials on how to adjust spoke tension.

Spokes has snapped

or missing

Dillenger stocks spare spokes for very reasonable prices, just

check out our spares section online and you can nd the right

type and length for your product.

Display won’t turn on, unless the battery charger is plugged in

Check all the connections, make sure the battery is charged. If the display turns on only when the battery charger is plugged in, you will have to submit a service ticked with this information.

Dillenger’s troubleshooting advice will take you through a logical way to diagnose any issues that may arise during installation and use.

Before commencing troubleshooting, disconnect all components. Do not short cut this process. There are countless times a loose plug has caused grief. By disconnecting all the plugs and then reconnecting just the crucial components, this will solve any loose plug issue.

Go through one by one plugging in the other components (such as the e-brake plugs or the motor cable) to see if any of these are the cause of the problem. In this basic state you may discover the culprit quickly.

Page 24

Fault Solution

Error message on the

display

Please refer to display manual for error code denition and if

needed, report the error code to Dillenger in a service ticket.

My kit looses power over bumps

Check all connections to make sure all the plugs are all the way connected. Check that the battery is locked to the cradle and not

loose. A momentary discontinuity in power will turn the kit o.

My battery cuts out intermittently

If the battery is low on power, or you are going up a very steep hill with a load on the motor, you will likely experience a voltage

cut-o if you have overloaded the controller, or dropped the voltage below the low voltage cut-o, which is more prevalent at

low power. This isn’t a fault with the kit, it’s just physics.

I would like my

battery capacity

tested

Please contact Dillenger by submitting a support ticket to arrange the return of your battery for testing. If the battery tests

above 85% capacity within the rst year (from purchase date)

you will be liable for return freight. If it is tested and is under capacity within the warranty period, your battery will be replaced.

TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED...

Page 25

Range extension:

If you’re not getting the approximate quoted range out of your e-bike system, take the following steps:

1. Battery indicator lights – full charge.

The LED and LCD battery level displays are a basic indication of battery charge, but they are based on voltage which is variable and not a true indication of battery capacity. The only accurate indication of a full charge, is having charged the battery and the battery charger lights glowing green to indicate that the battery is fully charged.

2. LED/LCD indicator light – running low

Some customers nd that the LED/LCD charge indicator can lead them astray in terms

of how far the bike will go on low power. You don’t risk damaging the system by riding

all the way to the controller low voltage cuto. Keep riding on pedal assist even after the

last battery indicator bar starts blinking.

3. Hills/riding style/other factors

The ranges quoted are from real world testing, with some hills and some at areas. If

your commute involves a lot of hills, that’s going to impact on the range. High powered e-bikes are especially susceptible to being drained a lot more on hills. If you need to

purchase a second charger to charge the battery at half way, or this can be a cost eect

way of doubling your range.

4. General tips

• Make sure the wheels are running free (rubbing brakes can halve your range quite easily)

• Keep the battery topped up between uses (this is very important)

• Make sure the tyre pressures are at optimum (ideal pressures are written on the tyre

side wall)

• Select the right gear for assisting up hills (the steeper the rise, the lower the gear needed)

If you would like to submit a Dillenger service ticket, please go to this URL:

Support Site

TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED...

Page 26

Dillenger Head Oce

3/13 Olympic Circuit Southport

QLD 4215 AUSTRALIA

Tel.: +617 5532 9235 dillenger.zendesk.com www.dillengerelectricbikes.com