NOTE: This product is intended for installation by a professional installer only!
Any attempt to install this product by any person other than a trained professional
may result in severe damage to a vehicle’s electrical system and components.
Lite®, Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry, Revenger®, Silent Mode™, Soft Chirp®, Stinger®, Valet®,
Vehicle Recovery System®, VRS®, and Warn Away® are all Trademarks or Registered Trademarks of
Directed Electronics.
The Bitwriter® (p/n 998T)
requires chip version 2.2 or
newer to program this unit.
New Software Compatibility for
103T Keypad
This unit now has software that
allows arming with entry delay when
used in conjunction with the optional
103T Keypad. Refer to the 103T
Owner’s Guide for details.
■ After the remote start module has been installed, test the remote start module in accordance with the
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Safety Check outlined in this installation guide. If the vehicle starts when performing the Neutral Safety
Shutdown Circuit test, the remote start unit has not been properly installed. The remote start module must
be removed or properly reinstalled so that the vehicle does not start in gear. All installations must be per-
formed by an authorized Directed Electronics dealer. OPERATION OF THE REMOTE START MODULE IF THE
VEHICLE STARTS IN GEAR IS CONTRARY TO ITS INTENDED MODE OF OPERATION. OPERATING THE REMOTE
START SYSTEM UNDER THESE CONDITIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY.
IMMEDIATELY CEASE THE USE OF THE UNIT AND REPAIR OR DISCONNECT THE INSTALLED REMOTE START
MODULE. DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC. WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE OR PAY FOR INSTALLATION OR
REINSTALLATION COSTS.
installation points to remember
IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.
Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.
before beginning the installation
■ Please read this entire installation guide before beginning the installation. The installation of this remote
start system requires interfacing with many of the vehicle’s systems. Many new vehicles use low-voltage or
multiplexed systems that can be damaged by low resistance testing devices, such as test lights and logic
probes (computer safe test lights). Test all circuits with a high quality digital multi-meter before making con-
nections.
■ Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag,
avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their
warning lights after they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, which can
require a trip to the dealer.
■ Check with the customer on status LED location.
■ Remove the domelight fuse. This prevents accidentally draining the battery.
■ Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.
after the installation
■ Test all functions. The “Using Your System” section of the Owner's Guide is very helpful when testing.
■ When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry (NPC). NPC can
bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working. See the Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry section.
■ Review and complete the Safety Check section of this guide prior to the vehicle reassembly.
The antenna position should be discussed with the vehicle’s owner prior to installation, since the antenna may
be visible to the vehicle’s operator. The best location for the antenna is centered high on either the front or
rear windshield. For optimal range, the antenna should be mounted horizontally. It can be mounted vertically
but range will be diminished. Metallic window tint can also affect range, so this should be a consideration when
determining the mounting location.
After determining the best mounting location, follow these steps:
1. Clean the mounting area with a quality glass cleaner or alcohol to remove any dirt or residue.
3. Mount the antenna using the supplied double-sided tape.
4. Route the antenna cable to the control module and plug it into the antenna connector.
IMPORTANT! To achieve the best possible range, DO NOT leave the antenna cable bundled under the
dash. Always extend the cable full length during installation, regardless of the antenna mounting
location.
locations for stinger doubleguard shock sensor
Some things to remember about where to mount the shock sensor:
■ Never put the Stinger® in the engine compartment!
■ Find a spot close to the control module so that the wires do not need to be extended. Keep it away from the
heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.
How the Stinger® is mounted is the most important factor in its performance. We recommend two meth-
ods:
■ Using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or an air duct,
or
■ Wire-tying to a wire harness.
If mounting the sensor where it cannot be easily reached for adjustment, hook-and-loop fastening tape (such as
Velcro) is recommended for ease of removal for future adjustments.
NOTE: In many vehicles, tying the sensor to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in
poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the vehicle.
If optional starter kill relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the under-dash panel, they
can easily be bypassed. Always make the relay and its con nec tions difficult to discern from the factory wiring!
Exposed yellow butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing
the optional starter kill wires away from the steering column is recommended.
locations for the relay satellite
The relay satellite wiring carries large amounts of current. The wires should not be extended and should be cut
to the minimum length necessary. Since the relay satellite is functioning as the ignition switch in the vehicle, it
is often convenient to mount the relay satellite close to the main ignition switch harness.
finding the wires you need
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that
the security system will be connected to.
IMPORTANT! Do not use a 12V test light or logic probe (computer safe test light) to find these
wires! Use a digital multimeter for all testing.
obtaining constant 12V
We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: the (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to
the ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering
other circuits such as door locks, fuse accordingly.
IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module
has its own fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power
feed.
polarity is negative (ground while the bulb is on).
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6. If the meter reads zero volts until the light goes out and then reads 12 volts, you have isolated the correct
wire and the wire's polarity is positive.
finding a (+) parking light wire
The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal
lever, and in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often avail-
able in the kick panel or running board.
NOTE: Many Toyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a
relay. The relay then sends (+)12V to the bulbs. Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking
light wire near the switch, simply test the wires at any switch or control panel which is lit by the
instrument panel lighting. Remember, you need a (+) parking light wire that does not vary with
the dimmer setting.
How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually, the area near the headlight/park ing light
switch is an excellent area to start, as is the kick panel.
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back
to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dim mer con trol, turn the
brightness of the dash lights up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer,
look for an oth er wire. If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.
finding the door pin switch circuit
The best places to find the door switch wire are:
■ At the pin switch: When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often,
the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.
■ At the dome light: This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision, but it
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will work in many Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.
Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel,
at the windshield pillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the
domelight itself is often the best solution.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+) probe
of your meter to (+)12V con stant.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door
is opened, you have found a trigger wire.
NOTE: Make sure the wire you use “sees” all the doors! Some newer GM vehicles lack standardtype pin switches. The dome light in these vehicles is turned on when the door handle is lifted.
These usually have a blue/white or white wire coming out of the door into the kick panel which
will provide a (-) trigger for all doors. Some GM vehicles (some Cavaliers, Grand Ams, etc.) have a
yellow wire coming out of the door which provides a (+) door trigger.
making your wiring connections
Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the red
12V constant input and the orange ground-when-armed output (for the optional starter kill relay) will often be
routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you
may wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the manu-
facturer used.
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection - solder con nec tions and crimp connectors. When
properly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your
connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically
sound and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather.
Use good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.
■ Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.
■ Never use “fuse taps”, as they can damage fuse box terminals.
If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-Locks), avoid using them in
higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.). Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and
When the system receives the code controlling Channel 2, for longer than 1.5 seconds, the red/white wire will
supply an output as long as the transmission continues. This is often used to operate a trunk/hatch release or
other relay-driven function.
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output can only supply 200 mA of current. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause it to fail.
H1/2 RED (+)12V constant power input
Before connecting this wire, remove the supplied fuse. Connect to the battery positive terminal or the constant
12V supply to the ignition switch.
NOTE: Always use a fuse within 12 inches of the point you obtain (+)12V. Do not use the 15A fuse
in the harness for this purpose. This fuse protects the module itself.
H1/3 BROWN (+) siren output
Connect this to the red wire of the siren. Connect the black wire of the siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at
the same point you connected the control module’s black ground wire. See Features Description section for horn
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the green wire to a wire which shows ground when any
door is opened. In vehicles with factory delays on the domelight circuit, there is usually a wire that is unaffected
by the delay circuitry. This wire will report Zone 3.
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output
Connect this wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown below:
IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected directly to the
domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more light bulbs.
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecu-
tive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true
for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the
for the remote start to activate or deactivate.
NOTE: The number of activation inputs can be programmed to 1 or 2 pulses. This setting affects
both the input wire and the remote control when operating the remote starter.