Dayton RS1200A User Manual

Connection/Configurations

Most pre-amps and receivers have a stereo line output that
follows the output level that is set by the system master volume
control; these outputs would connect to the line-level inputs on
the subwoofer amp control panel. Many newer multi-channel
receivers have a dedicated mono subwoofer output, usually
labeled LFE or Low Frequency Effects. The use of this output
will permit you to have separate control over the bass output
of the source, and it also permits you to set a crossover
frequency. When using an LFE output, use a single cable to
connect to the LFE input on the sub amp; keep in mind that this
input bypasses the internal low pass filter on the amplifier. For
either configuration, the system will operate with the greatest
linearity and least noise if all gain controls are balanced; that
is, no single gain control is operating at much more than 50%
of its total range. If one output is set at 10% and it feeds a
corresponding input that ends up at 90% then hum, noise, and
overly sensitive control characteristics may result.

The RS1200 comes shipped standard for 110V U.S. operation;
simply connect the included IEC power cord to your wall outlet.
For 220V input, remove the fuse holder, rotate 180 degrees,
and re-install. In most 220V applications a separate power cord
will be required and is not included. When connecting your
subwoofer for the first time, it is important to remember to start
with the amplifier OFF and the gain control set at minimum.
Start some source program that contains good bass material,
apply AC power to the subwoofer, and slowly increase the gain
on the sub amp. You should hear a gradual increase in deep
bass output as you bring up the volume. When the overall
balance between low and high frequency seems close, adjust
the phase switch and keep it set where the sub-bass response
sounds best in your listening location. You may then use the
parametric equalizer to finish off the general contour of the
low frequencies, or to correct a troublesome room mode or
resonance. These steps to achieve an optimum room response
should be used in conjunction with the steps described in the
next section, because the physical location of the speaker
components in the system can affect performance as much as
the electronic adjustments.

Room Placement/Integration

The requirement for the room location of a subwoofer is
substantially different than what we would expect for full range
speakers. We are not concerned with stereo imaging due
to the omnidirectional nature of sub bass, and bass tends
to fill a room with little bearing on positioning the subwoofer
in direct line-ofsight. Bass energy is easily reinforced by
reflection, and as those reflections recombine, the resulting
buildup can cause very irregular response in the room in the
form of peaks. Similarly, phase cancellations can occur when
the sound waves at a specific frequency cause destructive
interference and cancel each other out, and create holes or
nulls in the response. Keeping the subwoofer out of the center
between two opposing walls, and also out of corners, will help
to achieve the most even, consistent response. Some listeners
may prefer the “boomier” sound that results from placing a sub
in a corner, or need the increase in gain to compensate for
some other factor. It is generally a good idea to avoid placing
the subwoofer where it is perfectly centered between any two
opposing parallel planes (two walls; or the floor and ceiling). In
some cases, moving the enclosure just a few feet can make a
noticeable difference.

Aligning the subwoofer along a line drawn between the left/right
main speakers will help to keep the speakers in the same time
domain and will improve coherence. When properly integrated,
the actual location of the subwoofer will disappear and the
bass will seem to be coming from the main left/right speakers

on either side. Test tones and measurement equipment can
help you with your system setup, but good results can also be
achieved by spending time with a couple of well recorded CDs
with which you are especially familiar. You may find it useful to
have an associate make adjustments to the various system
controls, or even move speaker enclosures, while you remain in
a consistent listening position. After satisfying yourself that your
primary location is OK, move around a bit to make sure that
the wider soundstage is acceptable. There’s no good reason
why a single high quality subwoofer cannot be used for both
home stereo and home theatre applications. Each person has
his or her own individual preference as far as tonality, loudness,
range, or definition is concerned, and the biggest difference
between home theatre and home stereo is not the hardware
as much as how the hardware is used. A typical home theatre
system will tend to have the output of the subwoofer turned up
a bit more than what would be appropriate for home stereo.
Most cinema soundtracks are mixed with the sub-bass dialed
in to create both musical support and dramatic special effects.
It is up to you to decide how much you want the Imperial Battle
Cruisers to shake your house.

Troubleshooting

Hum:

The addition of a new active sub to an existing system can
sometimes result in the subwoofer beginning to hum. While
it would be easy to assume that the new product is at fault or
even defective, it is usually just an indicator that it is time to
take a closer look at the overall grounding of the audio system.
To start with, verify that all audio equipment in the system is on
the same AC power circuit. The outlets in a listening area may
or may not all be on the same breaker, some could even be on
a completely different breaker panel. Always make sure that all
equipment grounds are in good condition, and NEVER remove
the ground pin from a power plug. There are some cases where
the actual power line has some form of interference but the
most common cause of noise is a ground loop, meaning that
the system’s different ground points lack a common potential.
The cable TV line can be the cause of hum in multi-source
home audio/video systems. Just temporarily disconnect the
cable line, and if the hum stops then the use of an inline
isolation transformer is suggested. Other situations may require
the installation of an improved earth ground (connection to a
metal water pipe or grounding rod) in the vicinity of the audio/
video system. The key is to proceed slowly and step by step,
taking care to identify which cables or combinations of cables
cause noise when connected.

Weak Bass Output:

If bass output seems low, consider the different parts of the
system that can contribute to gain or volume. Try moving the
subwoofer to a corner. Make sure that the bass output control
of the receiver is set correctly (if so equipped). Be sure to use
a “Y” cord to connect both line level inputs if you are using
a mono source. Verify that the source that is feeding the
subwoofer does not have a crossover of its own that is set to a
lower frequency than the one in the subwoofer speaker.

Specifications

Frequency Response:
SPL:

110dB
Amplifier Power Output: 500 Watts RMS
Signal to Noise Ratio: 98 dB A-weighted
Input Impedance:
Dimensions:
Net Weight: 77 lbs.
Power Requirements: 110-120 VAC, 60 Hz. (8A GMA fuse)

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17”(W) x 17”(H) x 17-1/4”(D)

25Hz-200Hz

12K ohms

©2007 Dayton Audio

®

12" Reference Series

Subwoofer System

Model: RS1200

User's Manual

www.daytonaudio.com

Thank You...for purchasing the RS1200 Subwoofer System.

It produces accurate and powerful bass, making it perfect
for home theater or music listening rooms. The rigidly
braced cabinet features a textured matte black finish and is
coupled to the floor using our “black chrome” spikes set. The
Reference Series driver is precision crafted using only the
finest components and features a build quality that rivals the
best European drivers. This system is available as a kit or fully
assembled. In kit form, it can be assembled in less than 1 hour.
The kit is fun and easy to assemble and will provide the bass
you’ve been missing in your home theater or sound system.

Note: If you purchased the system pre-assembled

please skip to the “Features” section.

Parts Inventory

Your Reference Series RS1200 Subwoofer System should
include the following:

•

1 Subwoofer cabinet

•

1 Reference Series driver

•

1 Subwoofer amplifier

•

1 Speaker cabinet spike set

•

Convoluted acoustic foam

•

Cap head driver mounting screws

•

Amplifier mounting screws (In amplifier box)

• Speaker sealing caulk

Installation Tools

The Reference Series Subwoofer System can be assembled
with the following tools:

•

Phillips Screwdriver

•

5/32” Hex Driver

•

Wire cutters/strippers

•

Utility knife

Assembly Instructions

A. Install spiked feet

We recommend that you install the feet first so you can
quickly identify the cabinet bottom for proper orientation
while installing the amp and driver. To ease assembly, all
t-nuts have been installed in the cabinet at the factory.
The t-nuts included with the spike feet set are extra and
can be discarded after assembly. The pointed tip of the
spiked foot unscrews, make sure it is in place and hand
tight. Install the threaded rod as far as it will go into
the other end of the spiked foot. Next, screw the foot
into one of the four holes on the bottom of the cabinet
until it is flush and hand tight. Repeat procedure for the
other three feet. To ensure an airtight fit, we recommend
putting a small amount of RTV sealant on the threads
and base of the feet before installing to the cabinet.

B. Install amplifier

The amplifier features a thick foam gasket that provides
an airtight seal so no caulk is needed. Insert amplifier
into the back of the cabinet. Be sure to position the amp
so that the controls and printing are oriented correctly.
Using the supplied Phillips head screws, tighten down
the amp in a “star” pattern.

C. Install foam

Put the foam in the cabinet through the front and form it
around the inside of the cabinet. You will have to cut the
foam with a utility knife to fit it around the brace. Be sure
the flat side of the foam is against the cabinet walls. It’s a
good idea to use some spray adhesive to tack the foam
to the walls.

D. Install Driver

To ease assembly, all t-nuts have been installed in the
cabinet at the factory. The t-nuts included with the cap
head driver mounting screws are extra and can be
discarded after assembly. First, place the cabinet on its’
back taking care not to damage the amplifier controls.
Pull the speaker wire from the back of the amplifier
out through the driver hole. Cut off the connectors
and strip back the insulation on the wire. Be careful to
leave enough length in the wire to connect the speaker.
Connect the wire to the speaker, while observing the
proper polarity (red to positive speaker terminal, black
to negative speaker terminal). Place speaker sealing
caulk over the gasket on the back of the speaker. Place
driver in the opening and match the mounting flange
holes to the threaded holes in the cabinet. Insert each
mounting screw one at a time and turn each by hand
to start the screw into the threaded hole in the cabinet.
You may need to move the driver from side to side to get
each screw started. Do not tighten the screws until

all the mounting screws have been started by hand.
Be careful not to cross thread the screws!

mounting screws have been started, tighten the screws
in a “star” pattern using a 5/32” hex driver. Install the
grill. You are finished with the assembly of the subwoofer
system.

Features

The RS1200 powered subwoofer is fully equipped with features
that represent the kind of quality and performance that customers
have come to expect from the Dayton Loudspeaker line, like:

• High Xmax Reference Series driver

• Patented Class G tracking amplifier for more power and
greater efficiency

• Low distortion electronic and speaker components

• Parametric equalizer for optimum response and
maximum integration

• Soft clip” circuit eliminates harsh overload conditions and
protects drivers

• Auto on/off with standby mode

• Convenient connections and controls for easy hook-up and
system integration

• User-adjustable crossover frequency control

• Gain control for easy volume adjustment

• Industry-leading customer service and technical support

After all

Control Panel

Left/Right inputs:

RCA style jacks that will accept standard
line level inputs from a pre-amp level source.
They will accept a stereo signal and internally
combine it into mono. Both left and right input
jacks should be connected to the source
in order to drive the amplifier to full output.
The use of a “Y” cord is suggested if a mono
source is all that is available.

LFE direct input:

RCA jack that will accept a signal from the mono LFE (Low
Frequency Effects) output on a pre-amp or receiver that
is equipped with a dedicated sub bass output. This input
bypasses the amplifier’s own internal low pass filter circuitry,
relying instead on the processed output provided by the source
equipment. This would be the recommended connection for
most home theatre surround sound receivers and pre-amps. We
would also suggest the use of the LFE input when an external
line level electronic crossover or frequency dividing network is
used.

Power input:

This unit features an IEC grounding type power input connector.
The IEC connector allows the user to quickly exchange the power
cord if it is damaged, or if a longer cord is desired. The IEC inlet
connector also features an integrated fuse holder that contains the
AC line fuse.

Low Pass, Gain:

Will match the amplifier’s input sensitivity to the output of the
preamp source. If the source output has a variable control, we
recommend that the user spend a moment or two determining
the best balance between the two controls. When a balance is
found between low noise, linear level control, and sufficient level
to drive the amp to the required output, the gain knob can be
considered to be the “volume control” for the subwoofer system.

Low Pass, Frequency:

This control is used to establish the highest frequency that the
subwoofer will reproduce and has a range between 30 and 200
Hz. If your main speakers have good bass capability, you could
set the control to a fairly low value at 40, 60, or even 100 Hz. If
the main speakers are smaller or do not have much bass output,
set the control higher. Experiment with the amount of “overlap”
that you will experience when all speakers are playing in the
same range. This can be helpful when integrating the subwoofer
with the rest of the system and with the room.

Power LED:

When the power switch is moved to the “on” position, the LED
will illuminate a bright green, to indicate that the amplifier is fully
operational and ready to receive typical music program. As the
input signal increases to the onset of clipping the LED will turn
from green to a yellow color and finally to red, which indicates
that the clip limiting circuitry is activated. If an input signal (3 mV
or greater) is not detected for 10 to 15 minutes, the amp will go
to “stand by” mode and the LED will change to a dim green.

Phase:

This two-position (NOR = 0
switch helps to compensate for differences in the acoustical
and electrical characteristics between the subwoofer and the
main system speakers. The relative locations of speakers in
the system can cause significant disturbances in speaker
interaction due to time delay issues, or the destructive phase
interferences that can occur at certain frequencies. The use
of this switch in conjunction with altering the location of the
subwoofer can have a dramatic effect on system integration.
The “NOR” setting would be considered the normal or default
setting, but be sure to experiment during system set-up.

° phase and REV = 180° phase)

Parametric Equalizer

The amplifier features a fully parametric equalizer to help
you to achieve the best possible subwoofer performance.
Professional sound engineers have for many years considered
the parametric EQ to be one of the most accurate, versatile,
and high fidelity tools for audio enhancement. A greater degree
of control can be achieved when using the EQ’s unique ability
to vary the frequency to be affected, the amount of boost or
cut, and the width or narrowness at the selected frequency.
The equalizer can be configured for either broad, gentle tone
shaping or precise correction, it’s up to you!

EQ-Frequency:

Establishes the specific frequency at which EQ boost or cut
may be applied between 18 Hz and 80 Hz.

EQ-Bandwidth:

Determines how narrow or wide the EQ curve will be within a
range of 0.1 to 1.0. If for example a frequency of 60 Hz were
selected along with a Q of 0.1, the frequencies to either side
of 60 Hz would be less affected. This is a narrow bandwidth
that could be useful for “surgically” removing an offending peak
without disturbing adjacent frequencies. At the other extreme,
a Q of 1 would result in a much broader effect which could
be used for smooth overall bass boost or cut, to balance the
overall tone character of the sub.

EQ-Level:

Permits the application of up to 6dB of boost or 14.5dB of cut at
the selected frequency and bandwidth. Setting the control at

the 0 position effectively removes the EQ from the circuit
path. It is good to remember that high levels of boost reduce

amplifier headroom; it is the same as turning up the low pass
gain control but only at the selected EQ frequencies. It would
be helpful to reduce or increase the low pass gain control to
balance the amount of cut or boost applied by the EQ.

Installation

The reasonable size and neutral appearance of the RS1200
will provide the user with tremendous flexibility when the
time comes to choose a location for the most satisfactory
performance. Please be aware that the powerful woofer motor
assembly can emit stray magnetic fields, and these fields can
have a detrimental effect on TV and computer screens, and
magnetic storage media such as videotapes, audio cassettes,
and computer data storage discs like floppies and zips. Try to
maintain a safe distance of 2 to 3 feet from any of these items
to prevent damage, or the loss of recorded data. The side of
the subwoofer that includes the control panel should be kept
at least 2 to 4 inches from a wall or other surface, but special
care should be taken to avoid close proximity to upholstered
surfaces or drapes. Please make sure that the control panel
has enough free air space around it so that proper cooling
can take place. Refrain from using the system in wet or rainy
outdoor locations.

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