NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outd oor power
equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals.
These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional. Read, understand, and follow all
instructions and use common sense when working on power equipment. This includes the contents of the product’s Operators Manual, supplied with the equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication,
although care has been taken to make it as complete and accura te as possible at the time of publication. However, du e to
the variety of outdoor power equipment and continuing product changes that occur over time, updates will be made to these
instructions from time to time. Therefore, it may be necessary to obtain the latest materials before servicing or repairing a
product. The company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this publication without prior notice and without
incurring an obligation to make such changes to previously published versions. Instructions, photographs and illustrations
used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual model and component parts.
37.PIVOT BAR SERVICE .............................................................................................................69
38.ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ...........................................................................................................71
39.UNDERSTANDING THE PTO SWITCH ................................................................................... 77
1
2
#
#
0
Series 1000 and 1500
Series 1000 and 1500
1.INTRODUCTION
Disclaimer: This service manual is intended to be
used by trained technicians.
Disclaimer: The information contained in this manual
is current and accurate at the time of writing, but is subject to change without notice.
1.1.Intent: This manual is intended to:
•Provide specific service and repair procedures
for a range of Cub Cadet 1000 and 1500 Series
tractors manufactured for the 2005/2006 season.
•Highlight significant changes to the Cub Cadet
1000 Series since it’s introduction.
1.2.Engines: A variety of single cylinder and V-twin
engines have been used in the 1000 series trac
tors. Kohler Courage line of single-cylinder and
V-Twin engines is presently the most heavily
used power source in the 1000 Series line
1.3.For specific engine service information, refer to
the engine manufacturer’s service publications.
1.4.The engine is partially identified by the 4th digit
of the factory number:
•13AX11CG756 - Kohler Courage single cylinder
•13AP
11CP756 - Kohler courage V-Twin
1.5.Refer to the table provided for engine applications in the 1000 series range. See Figure 1.5.
1000 Series Engine Applications
YearModel
Factory
Engine
2001102713A -328-1019.0 HP BS
117013CD608G101 17.5 HP BS
118013AT608H 10118 HP BS
121214AJ808H10121 HP B S
2002102713A -328-1019.0 HP BS
117013CD608G101 17.5 HP BS
151513A-201F10015 H P KO H
151713A-231G10017 HP KO H
2003152513A-221F10015 HP KAW
152713A-241G10017 H P K AW
152913A-261H10019 HP KA W
2004LT 1018 13AL11CG 710 18.5 HP BS
LT 1022 13AB11C H 71022 HP B S
LT 1024 13AR 11CP 71024 HP B S
GT 1222 14A B13C H71022 HP BS
2005LT 1042 13BX 11C G 710 19 HP KO H
LT 1045 13AX 11C H710 20 HP KOH
LT 1046 13AP11C H 710 23 HP KOH
-
LT 1050 13AQ11CP71
26 HP K OH
SLT 1554 13AK11C K710 27 HP KOH
2006LT 1042 13AX 11C G 756 19 HP H OH
LT 1045 13AX 11C H756 20 HP KOH
LT 1050 13AP11C P756 23 HP KOH
SLT 1550 13AQ 11BP 756 25 HP KOH
GT 1554 14AK13BK 756 27 HP K OH
Figure 1.5
1
Series 1000 and 1500
1.6.Decks: Cutting decks ranging in width from 38”
to 54” have been used on the 1000 Series plat
form.
1.7.There have been multiple versions of some
decks, most particularly the 42”. Check the serial
number when researching for parts or service
information.
1.8.The deck size is identified by the 8th digit of the
factory number:
See Figure 1.8.
1000 Series Deck Applicatio n s
YearWidthDeck Deck/PTO Belts
200127.5"CYB /ST D 754-0754
42"G754-0472
46"H754-0349/754-0476
200227.5"CYB /ST D 754-0754
42"G754-0472
38"F754-0641
42"G754-0645/754-0644
200338"F754-0641
42"G754-0645/754-0644
46"H754-04011
200442"G754-0498/754-0499
46"H754-04033
50"P754-04048
200542"G754-04060B
46"H754-04033
50"P754-04077
54"K754-0642
200642"G754-0349
46"H754-0349
50"P754-0349
54"K754-0349
Figure 1.8
•13AX11CG756 - 42” 2-blade deck
•13AX11CH
756 - 46” 3-blade deck
1.9.Drive Systems: A variety of hydrostatic and
-
CVT drive systems have been used on the 1000
Series tractors.
1.10. A Two-belt CVT system driving an MTD singlespeed transaxle is presently used only on the
LT1040 model. This system can be distin
guished by the gear selector (F-N-R) on the left
rear fender, and the simple drive pedal.
See Figure 1.10.
Figure 1.10
1.11. A similar two-belt CVT system was employed to
drive a heavy-duty transaxle in some 2002 and
2002 models having two forward speed ranges.
These are easy to identify by the presence o f the
gear selector lever between the operators knees
rather than on the fender.
1.12. All CVT driven 1000 and 1500 Series tractors
have a gear selector lever
the right side, near the brake pedal.
1.13. All Hydrostatic transaxles on the 1000 and 1500
Series are operated by a rocker pedal on the
right side, near the brake pedal.
1.14. A Hydro-Gear 310-0510 hydrostatic transaxle is
used on LT models having 20” rear tires. Hydro
static transaxles have a rocker pedal to control
forward and reverse direction and speed.
1.15. A Hydro-Gear 314-0610 hydrostatic transaxle
with a different final drive ratio is used on LT
models having 22” rear tires. Hydrostatic tran
saxles have a rocker pedal to control forward
and reverse direction and speed.
1.15.
Figure 1.15
See Figure
2.NEW HOOD DESIGN
-
2.1.Early 1000 and 1500 Series tractors used a variety of steel hoods and side panels. Later ones
resembled those used on the 2000 and 2500
Series tractors.
2.2.The hood presently used on the 1000 series
tractors is a molded 1-piece design.
2.2.
See Figure
1.16. A Hydro-Gear 320-3000 hydrostatic transaxle is
used on GT designated models. This is a sub
stantially heavier duty IHT than the one used in
the LT models. Hydrostatic transaxles have a
rocker pedal to control forward and reverse
direction and speed.
See Figure 1.16.
Figure 1.16
-
Figure 2.2
2.3.The 1000 Series hood opens from the back.
See Figure 2.3.
Figure 2.3
3
Series 1000 and 1500
2.4.The 1000 Series hood can be easily removed:
See Figure 2.4.
Figure 2.4
•Disconnect the headlight wires
•Release the retaining springs
•Align the bolts in the hood with the slots in the
hinge.
•A pair of gas charged cylinders provide lift assist.
See Figure 2.5.
Gas lift Cylinders
Pivot Rod
Figure 2.5
2.6.A new spring-loaded latch was added to hold the
hood closed.
See Figure 2.6.
•Lifting the hood off of the tractor.
2.5.The hood used on the 1500 Series tractors for
2005 and 2006 is more substantial than that
used on the 1000 Series. It is a one-piece
molded design very similar to the one used on
the much larger 5000 and 6000 series tractors.
See Figure 2.5.
Figure 2.5
Figure 2.6
•It opens from the front.
4
Series 1000 and 1500
2.7.A torsion spring keeps the latch secure until the
lower pivot latch is intentionally pulled up, to
open the hood.
Upper
Pivot
Latch
Cotter
Pin
Lower
Pivot
Latch
2.8.The hood latches to a sturdy rod that is mounted
to the front of the frame.
See Figure 2.7.
Torsion Spring
Pivot
Rod
Figure 2.7
See Figure 2.8.
3.2.Disconnect headlight harness (plugged secured
to hood lift cylinder).
Headlight
Harness
3.3.Remove the air deflector baffle using a 3/8”
wrench.
See Figure 3.2.
Figure 3.2
See Figure 3.3.
Hood Latch Rod
Figure 2.8
3.HOOD PANEL REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES
NOTE: Use this procedure if the hood alone is to
be removed. Typical reasons might include
replacement because of damage to the hood, or
to ease access for other service.
3.1.Disconnect ground cable from battery using a
7/16” wrench.
Figure 3.3
3.4.Support the hood as it is being loosened.
3.5.Separate hood from hinge using a 3/8” wrench.
3.6.Lift hood off of tractor.
5
Series 1000 and 1500
4.HOOD AND HINGE REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES
NOTE: Use this procedure for more extensive
repairs. T ypical reasons may include dash p anel
removal, or the need for more working room
than simply removing the hood will provide.
4.1.Remove the battery: See Figure 4.1.
Figure 4.1
4.8.Hood installation notes: See Figure 4.8.
Figure 4.8
•Position the hinge support bar over the two
spacers that partially cover the threads of the
balls that the that hood support struts attach to.
The slots in the ends of the bar will fit over the
spacers.
•Disconnect the negative battery cable (black)
first, using a 7/16” wrench.
•Disconnect the positive battery cable (red) using
a 7/16” wrench.
•Remove the battery hold-down.
•Lift the battery from the tractor.
4.2.Disconnect the headlight harness. (Plug secured
to the hood lift cylinder).
4.3.Support the hood with an improvised prop-rod to
prevent damage.
4.4.Remove screws holding hinge support bar to
dash support using a 1/2” wrench.
4.5.Disconnect and remove the hood lift cylinders
using a small straight-blade screwdriver.
4.6.Remove screws & flat washers holding hinge
support bar to dash panel using a 3/8” wrench.
4.7.Lift hood and hinge assembly off of the tractor,
and remove it to a safe place.
•Support the hood with an improvised prop rod.
•Install the screws that hold the hinge support bar
to the dash support and instrument panel.
•Snap the hood support cylinder into place, and
remove the prop rod.
•The remainder of the installation process is simply the reversal of the removal steps.
6
Series 1000 and 1500
5.REAR FENDER REMOVAL
5.1.It is necessary to remove the fender assembly
for access to the following service areas:
Figure 5.1.
Figure 5.1
•Fuel tank (hydrostatic drive riders)
•Lift-shaft assembly (except bushings)
See
5.4.Remove the rubber grip from the cutting deck
height control handle atop the right rear fender.
See Figure 5.4.
Figure 5.4
5.5.Disconnect the two yellow wires from the seat
safety switch mounted to the left side seat
bracket.
See Figure 5.5.
•Deck lift cable removal
•Wiring harness inspection or removal
•Dash panel removal
•Traction drive belt idler pulley removal
•Traction drive belt tension arm removal
NOTE: At first-glance, fender removal appears
to be a substantial job. Skilled mechanics can
typically remove the fenders from a 1000 Series
Cub Cadet tractor in about 15 minutes, with an
equal amount of time required for installation.
5.2.Disconnect the ground cable from the negative
battery post using a 7/16” wrench.
5.3.Remove the cutting deck from the tractor.
Safety Switch Connectors
Figure 5.5
5.6.Release the gold colored extension spring from
the left side seat bracket using a length of starter
rope or a spring removal tool.
•gold colored spring: left seat bracket
•red spring: right seat bracket
•Only the gold colored spring must be removed
because it blocks access to the bolts that hold
the seat bracket to the frame.
7
Series 1000 and 1500
5.7.Remove the four bolts that hold the seat brackets to the frame using a 1/2” wrench.
5.8.Remove the seat to a safe location.
5.9.Remove the hydro control pedal (or speed control pedal on CVT equipped models) using a T40 driver.
See Figure 5.9.
T-40 Screws
Figure 5.9
5.12. Peel-back the rubber foot pad to reach and
remove the carriage bolt.
Figure 5.12
5.13. Carefully peel-up each rear corner of the larger
instruction label located between the foot pads,
revealing two screws that hold the fender
assembly to the frame.
See Figure 5.12.
See Figure 5.13.
5.10. Remove the brake pedal using a T-40 driver
(upper screw) and a 9/16” wrench (lower screw).
5.11. Remove the nuts from the carriage bolts that
secure the front edge of each running board to
the frame bracket that supports it.
See Figure 5.11.
Figure 5.11
Figure 5.13
NOTE: If the previous steps are done with care,
the label can be reapplied, using some spray-on
contact adhesive if necessary.
•If the label shows signs of becoming damaged
by the peeling-back process, it should be
replaced during reassembly.
•Apply thumb pressure to the rubber foot pad,
directly above the nut / carriage bolt to hold the
square boss on the nut into the bracket, to prevent rotation.
•To identify and order a replacement label, note
the number printed on the lower right corner of
the label (“S32484 AC” typical). That number,
with a 777 prefix (777-S32484 AC) is usually the
part number of the label.
8
Series 1000 and 1500
5.14. Remove the two screws that were revealed by
peeling-back the label. This can be done using a
3/8” wrench.
5.15. Remove the fuel filler cap.
5.16. Lift the fenders off of the tractor, maneuvering
them to clear the cutting deck height control
lever.
See Figure 5.16.
See Figure 5.14.
Figure 5.14
•When installing a large panel, start all of the
threaded fasteners, then go back and tighten
each after the panel is in position.
•Test the operation of all controls and safety features in a safe place, free of obstacles and bystanders before returning the tractor to service.
6.FUEL SYSTEM
6.1.While the 1000 and 1500 Series tractors are
built on the same frame, the fuel systems differ
substantially in layout.
6.2.The 1000 Series tractors have the fuel tank
beneath the hood, with the battery located under
the seat.
See Figure 6.2.
Figure 5.16
5.17. Remove the fenders to a safe place.
5.18. Replace the fuel filler cap.
5.19. Installation notes:
•Confirm that the seat safety switch wires are
accessible before securing the fender.
•144 in-lbs is adequate tightening torque for the
5/16”-18 screws and bolts removed in this procedure. (1/2” wrench or T-40 driver)
Figure 6.2
6.3.This positioning is necessary to provide easy
service access to the CVT drive system used on
the 1000 series tractors. The rear mounted bat
tery, and the tray that supports it are easily
removable.
6.4.The battery of the 1500 Series tractor is located
under the hood, with the fuel tank mounted
under the rear fenders.
-
9
Series 1000 and 1500
6.5.On current models of the 1000 and 1500 Cub
Cadet, the fuel is moved from the tank to the car
buretor by a vacuum-driven fuel pump that is
mounted to the engine.
Figure 6.5
6.6.The fuel line runs from a barbed fitting on the
bottom of the fuel tank to the fuel pump.
See Figure 6.5.
Fuel Pump
6.9.In the event that it is necessary to remove the
-
fuel tank, begin by removing the fenders as
described in the REAR FENDER REMOVAL
section of this manual.
6.10. Make provisions for draining any fuel that
remains in the gas tank: 24” of 1/4” fuel line, and
a suitable catch pan will be sufficient.
6.11. Pinch the fuel line about 6” from the fuel tank to
prevent the line from emptying (unless it needs
to be drained or replaced).
•Position the catch pan under the fitting on the
fuel tank.
•Have the extra length of fuel line handy.
6.12. Remove the hose clamp that secures the fuel
line to the fitting on the gas tank.
See Figure 6.12.
6.7.The 1500 series fuel line should be routed as
shown.
6.8.The fuel cap is vented.
•There are a few non-vented fuel caps that will fit
the filler neck of the 1000 and 1500 Series tractor.
See Figure 6.7.
Fuel Line
Figure 6.7
Figure 6.12
6.13. Quickly pull the fuel line off of the fitting, and
replace it with the extra hose. Direct the hose
into the catch pan.
6.14. When the tank is empty, dispose of any unusable fuel in a safe and responsible manner.
•Non-vented caps are used on the Cub Cadet Big
Country line of utility vehicles.
•Use of a non-vented cap on a 1000 or 1500
Series tractor will cause fuel supply issues.
10
Series 1000 and 1500
6.15. Remove the plate that supp orts the seat brackets using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 6.15.
Seat Bracket Plate
Figure 6.15
6.16. Lift the fuel tank out of the tractor.
7.FUEL SHUT-OFF SOLENOID
7.1.In all models of the 1000 and 1500 Series Cub
Cadet riders, there is a fuel shut-off solenoid
mounted to the carburetor.
See Figure 7.1.
•When the solenoid does not have power, it
closes, stopping the flow of fuel.
•The solenoid usually emits an audible “click”
when power is applied or discontinued.
•If the solenoid does not click, it is not working. If
it does click, it cannot be assumed to be working
properly.
8.FUEL RELATED NO-START ISSUES
8.1.The leading industry cause of no-start and
engine performance problems is stale or out
dated fuel.
•In temperate regions of the country, fuel purchased during the summer may not be volatile
enough to ignite during the winter months.
•Similarly, “Winter” fuel may be cause performance issues if used into the summer months.
The gasoline companies taylor the contents of
their fuel blends to optimize performance, ta king
climate and geography into account.
•As fuel goes stale, the lighter end hydrocarbons
(more volatile elements) tend to evaporate, leaving the fuel less volatile.
-
Fuel Shutoff Solenoid
Figure 7.1
7.2.The fuel shut-off solenoid is a valve that is actuated by an electric coil.
•The fuel shut-off solenoid helps prevent “afterboom” when a hot engine is turned-off.
•The solenoid has power when the key is in the
run position and the safety switches on the tractor do not sense any unsafe conditions. When it
has power, the solenoid opens, allowing fuel to
reach the carburetor.
•In extreme cases, semi-solid residue will accumulate, damaging the fuel system.
•If a piece of equipment will sit unused during the
dormant season, the fuel system should be
drained completely, or preservative should be
added to the fuel according to the preservative
manufacturer’s instructions.
8.2.Alcohol content of the fuel should not exceed
10%.
•Small amounts of ethanol are fairly common in
fuel.
•Methanol is more destructive than ethanol, and
should be avoided.
•Alcohol absorbs water. Fuel that contains alcohol will also contain a certain amount of water.
The water will corrode any metallic parts of the
fuel system, and may cause freezing damage in
low temperatures.
•Products that purport to “dry” the fuel system are
generally isopropyl alcohol. The object is to resuspend the water that has settled out of the
alcohol the fuel already contains.
11
Series 1000 and 1500
•Ether-based starting fluids should not be used,
and may void engine warranties if their use is
detected.
9.MUFFLER REMOVAL
NOTE: There are a variety of mufflers on this
series of tractor depending on the year and
engine of the unit. this chapter will cover a few
different mufflers to give you the basics of muf
fler removal on this series.
NOTE: For all tractors, remove the bumper first.
•On units with side panels:
9.1.Remove the hood, side panels and grill.
NOTE: Make sure to disconnect the headlight
harness when you remove the grill and side pan
els.
9.2.Remove the self tapping hex cap screws securing the front frame assembly to the muffler shield
and muffler using a 1/2" socket.
See Figure 9.2.
9.7.Remove both hinge brackets. See Figure 9.7.
Hinge Bracket
-
-
9.8.Remove the four screws in the sides of the muf-
fler guard. Slide the muffler and muf fler guard of f
of the exhaust pipe(s).
Figure 9.7
See Figure 9.8.
Muffler Guard
Hex Cap Screws
Frame
Muffler Shield
Figure 9.2
9.3.Remove the muffler and guard.
NOTE: Muffler slides off of the ex haust pipe. It is
NOT fastened to the pipe.
9.4.Remove the four screws in the top of the muffler
guard. the muffler and muffler guard will now
separate.
9.5.Reassemble in reverse order.
•1000 Series with one piece hood.
9.6.Remove hood as shown in section 2.
Figure 9.8
NOTE: You may have the tail pipe stickin g out of
the left side. If so slide the guard off of it first.
12
Series 1000 and 1500
9.9.Remove the four screws going through the muffler support brackets into the muffler mounting
bracket.
9.10. The muffler will now slide off of the exhaust
pipe(s).
9.11. Remove the screws in the muffler mounting
brackets and lift the brackets off of the muffler.
9.12. Reassemble in reverse order.
•1500 with one piece hood:
9.13. Open hood.
9.14. Remove bumper
See Figure 9.9.
Muffler Support Bracket
Figure 9.9
9.16. Remove the four screws holding the muffler
guard to the front muffler support brackets.
Figure 9.16.
Remove these hex screws. (two on each side)
Figure 9.16
NOTE: The rear two screws will be accessible
from the top. the front two screws will be acces
sible from the bottom.
9.17. Slide the muffler and muffler guard off of the
exhaust pipe(s).
9.18. Remove the four screws in the top of the muf fler
guard. Lift the muffler guard off of the muffler.
9.19. Reassemble in reverse order.
See
-
9.15. Remove the two clevis pins in the deck front stabilizer bracket.
10.CUTTING DECK REMOVAL
10.1. Place the PTO switch in the off position.
10.2. Lower the lift lever to the lowest setting.
13
Series 1000 and 1500
10.3. Remove the PTO belt from electric P TO clutch.
See Figure 10.3.
Idler
Electric PTO
clutch
(earlier production)
Figure 10.3
NOTE: On some models you will need to
remove the belt guide first.
NOTE: On earlier production models you need
to slip the belt off of the idler pulley before you
remove the belt from the PT O clutch.
10.7. Slide the deck forward and release the front stabilizer rod. DO NOT DROP the deck to the
ground.
See Figure 10.7.
Front
stabilizer
rod
Figure 10.7
10.8. Slide the deck toward the right side of he tractor
and remove it from under the tractor.
CAUTION: Remove the deck stabilizer assembly from the tractor prior to moving the unit.
10.4. Pull the rear deck support pins outward from the
deck lift arms.
See Figure 10.4.
Lift arm
Deck support
pin
Figure 10.4
10.5. Pivot the deck support pins to the rear.
10.6. Raise the lift lever to the highest setting. This will
raise the lift arms up and out of the way of the
deck assembly.
NOTE: Depending on the model and deck, some
units have a J-bolt for the front stabilizer bar
instead of the U-bolt. On those units you can line
up the coined spot stamped in the middle of the
bolt with the slot in the bracket and slide it off.
See Figure 10.8.
U-Bolt Stabilizer
J-Bolt Stabilizer
Figure 10.8
14
Series 1000 and 1500
11.DECK LIFT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
11.1. If the deck lift shaft itself requires removal, first
remove the cutting deck.
11.2. Remove the fenders as described in the
FENDER REMOVAL section of this manual.
11.3. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring that
extends from the deck lift shaft to the transaxle
torque bracket using a length of starter rope or a
spring tool.
Deck Lift Assist Spring
See Figure 11.3.
1 1.6. With the deck height control lever all the way for-
ward, remove the hairpin clips that secure the
deck lift cables to the arms on the deck lift shaft.
See Figure 11.6.
Deck Lift Cable
Figure 11.6
1 1.7. Remove the E-clip from each end of the lift-shaft.
See Figure 11.7.
Figure 11.3
11.4. On models built in 2004 and prior, the lift assist
springs extend rearward to a pair of openings
with mounting tabs in the back surface of the
upper frame.
See Figure 11.4.
Mounting Tabs
Figure 11.4
E-clip
Figure 11.7
11.8. Pry the bushings that support the lift shaft out of
the frame.
11.5. Unbolt the seat bracket mounting plate from the
frame (4 screws) using a 1/2” wrench. This will
allow the fuel tank to be lifted slightly for clear
ance, but the tank need not be removed.
-
15
Series 1000 and 1500
11.9. Slide the lift shaft assembly to the right, providing clearance to remove the left end of the shaft
from the frame.
11.10.Slide the lift shaft back to the left to remove it
from the tractor.
11.11.On the bench, relieve torsion spring pressure
between the lift shaft and the lever that controls
it using a length of starter rope.
11.11.
See Figure 11.9.
Lift Shaft
Figure 11.9
See Figure
bushing, it should be a dry graphite or PTFE
based lube.
•Replace the bushings an E-clips if they show
signs of wear.
•Reverse the removal process to install the lift
shaft.
•Connect the cables and install the bushings prior
to connecting the tension spring between the lift
shaft arm and the transaxle torque bracket.
12.LIFT SHAFT BUSHINGS
12.1. The most common item on the lift shaft assembly to require service is likely to be the bushings
that support the shaft. These bushings are visi
ble beneath the fender. See Figure 12.1.
Bushing
-
Start er Rope
Torsion Spring
Figure 11.11
11.12.Rotate the lever to align the coined “ears” with
the slots in the lift shaft arm, allowing separation
of the lever from the arm.
11.13.Assembly notes:
•Because of the dusty environment that many
mowers operate in, grease applied to this bushing may accelerate wear rather than prevent it. If
any lubricant is used between the shaft and the
Figure 12.1
12.2. When performing normal maintenance that
requires deck removal, inspect the lift shaft
bushings while the weight of the deck is
removed from them.
•These bushings are normal wear items.
•Grasp the lift shaft and apply up and down force.
•Watch for shaft motion within the bushings.
•Larger decks, such as the 50” and 54” ( P and K)
decks will place a greater load on the bushings.
•Worn bushings may cause deck leveling issues.
12.3. To replace the bushings, the weight of the deck
should be removed from the deck lift cable.
Remove the cutting deck before attempting to
remove the bushings.
16
Series 1000 and 1500
12.4. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring that
extends from the deck lift shaft to the transaxle
torque bracket using a length of starter rope or a
spring tool.
Deck Lift Assist Spring
12.5. Remove the E-clip that holds each shouldered
hex bushing into the tractor frame. Replace one
bushing at a time.
12.6. Pry the worn bushing out of the hole.
See Figure 12.4.
Figure 12.4
13.3. Remove the rear tires using a 3/4” wrench.
See Figure 13.3.
Figure 13.3
13.4. Remove the handle from the rear fenders using
a 3/8” wrench. The screws are accessible from
inside the rear fender.
See Figure 13.4.
Handle Screws
12.7. Clean any dirt or corrosion from the surface of
the lift shaft that contacts the bushing.
NOTE: Because of the dusty environment that
many mowers operate in, grease applied to this
bushing may accelerate wear rather than pre
vent it. If any lubricant is used between the shaft
and the bushing, it should be a dry graphite or
PTFE based lube.
12.8. Insert the new bushings, and secure them with
the E-clips.
12.9. Check deck levelness, and make any necessary
adjustments before returning the tractor to ser
vice.
13.DECK LIFT CABLES AND PULLEYS
NOTE: The deck lift cables and pulleys can be
replaced without removing the rear fenders.
13.1. To remove the deck lift cables, remove the cutting deck.
13.2. Lift and safely support the rear of the tractor.
-
-
Figure 13.4
17
Series 1000 and 1500
13.5. Remove the notched plate that the deck height
control lever seats against in the fender, using a
1/2” socket.
13.6. Push the deck height control lever as far forward
as it will go, and secure the lever in that position.
13.7. Remove the pulley that carries the deck lift cable
using a 1/2” wrench and a 5/8” wrench.
13.8. Remove the E-clip from the same end of the lift
shaft that the cable is being removed from. This
will allow the lift shaft to be pushed-in slightly,
providing clearance for the pin.
13.9. Remove the hairpin clip that secures the pin on
the top end of the cable to the arm on the deck
lift shaft.
See Figure 13.5.
Figure 13.5
See Figure 13.9.
13.10.Remove the hairpin clip that secures the pin to
the lift arm, and remove the cable.
13.11.Installation notes:
•Reverse the removal process to install the
cables and pulleys.
•Because of the dusty environment that many
mowers operate in, grease applied to the ca ble
or pulley may accelerate wear rather than prevent it. If any lubricant is used on the pulley, it
should be a dry graphite or PTFE based lube.
•Replace the pulleys and cables if they show
signs of wear.
•Check deck level before returning the tractor to
service.
•Tighten fasteners to the following torques:
Lug nuts 75ft-lbs (Nm)
Screws, handle to fender 60 in-lbs (Nm)
Screws, plate to fender 144in-lbs (Nm)
Shoulder bolts, pulley 144 in-lbs (Nm)
14.LEVELING THE CUTTING DECK
NOTE: Prior to leveling the mowing deck, per-
form the following steps:
•Check the tire pressure. The front tires will be
approximately 14 PSI, and the rear tires will be
approximately 10 PSI.
•Place the tractor on a level surface.
•Depress and lock the parking brake.
Deck Lift Cable
Figure 13.9
NOTE: Early models used a removable clevis
pin. Current production cables have captive
pins.
•Place the cutting deck in cutting position 3 or 4.
SIDE TO SIDE ADJUSTMENT
IMPORTANT: The cutting deck must be even
side to side.
18
Series 1000 and 1500
14.1. Using a work glove or rag, rotate the blades until
they are cutting edge tip to cutting edge tip (per
pendicular) to the tractor. See Figure 14.1.
Figure 14.1
14.2. Measure the outer blade tips to ground. Both
measurements taken should be equal.
NOTE: If an adjustment is needed, perform the
following steps:
FRONT TO REAR ADJUSTMENT
-
IMPORTANT: The front of the deck will be
between 1/4” and 3/8” lower in the front than the
rear of the deck.
14.6. Using a work glove or a rag, rotate the blades
until they are parallel with the tractor frame.
Figure 14.6.
Blades parallel with frame
Figure 14.6
See
14.3. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the hex cap screw
on the left deck hanger bracket using a 1/2” an d
a 3/4” wrench.
Adjustment Gear Hex Cap Screw
14.4. Rotate the 3/4” deck adjustment gear right or left
until the deck is level side to side and both blade
tips to ground are equal in measurement.
14.5. Retighten the hex cap screw on the left deck
hanger using a 1/2” and a 3/4” wrench wh en th e
proper adjustment has been achieved.
See Figure 14.3.
Figure 14.3
14.7. Measure the front blade tips to the ground.
14.8. Measure the rear blade tips to the ground.
14.9. Make certain the front blade tips are 1/4” to 3/8”
lower than the rear blade tips.
NOTE: If an adjustment is needed, perform the
following steps:
14.10.There two types of stabilizer rods. A U-bolt type
and a J-bolt type.
U-Bolt Stabilizer
See Figure 14.10.
J-Bolt Stabilizer
Figure 14.10
19
Series 1000 and 1500
•For the U-bolt style:
14.11.Loosen both lock nuts securing the adjustment
nuts on the front of the deck stabilizer bracket
using a two 3/4” wrenches.
Lock Nuts
Adjustment Nuts
Figure 14.11
14.12.Locate both adjustment nuts on the front side of
the deck stabilizer bracket.
14.13.Tighten both nuts to r aise the front of the deck or
loosen both nuts to lower the front of the deck
using a 3/4” wrench.
NOTE: Make sure you count the numbe r of turns
you put on the first nut and put the same number
on the second nut. both nuts must be moved
equally.
14.14.Retighten both lock nuts to jam the adjustment
nuts into position when the proper adjustment
has been achieved.
See Figure 14.11.
•For the J-bolt Style:
14.15.The J-bolt style stabilizer is adjusted in a similar
fashion. Loosen the single lock nut away from
the adjustment nut using two 3/4” wrenches.
Lock NutAdjustment Nut
Figure 14.15
14.16.To lower the front of the deck loosen the adjustment nut on the J-bolt. To raise the front of the
deck tighten the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut
against the adjustment nut when finished.
15.DASH PANEL REMOVAL
15.1. Remove fender, as described in the FENDER
REMOVAL section of this manual.
15.2. For the 1500 remove the hood and battery, as
described in the HOOD REMOVAL section of
this manual.
•For the 1000 remove the fuel tank by first removing the fuel cap. place a piece of plastic over fuel
tank opening and put fuel cap back on.
•Remove the four 1/2” screws holding the fuel
tank in place.
• Lift the fuel tank and place on top of engine or
clamp the fuel line and remove it from the fuel
pump and remove fuel tank from unit.
15.3. Pry the cap off the center of the steering wheel.
20
Series 1000 and 1500
15.4. Remove the steering wheel from the steering
shaft using a 1/2” wrench.
Figure 15.4
15.5. Disconnect the following dash-mounted electrical devices by unplugging the molded connectors: See Figure 15.5.
Molded connectors
See Figure 15.4.
15.6. Disconnect the rods that connect the Park Brake
and Cruise Control mechanisms to the levers on
the dash that control those features by removing
the hairpin clips.
15.7. Remove the knob from the throttle lever using a
phillips head screwdriver, then remove the
screws that hold the throttle assembly to the
dash panel.
See Figure 15.6.
Hairpin clips
Figure 15.6
See Figure 15.7.
Figure 15.5
NOTE: Image shows 1500 dash. 1000 ser ies
dash components are in a similar location.
•Key switch and OCR module
•PTO Switch
•Hour meter / Monitor
•Accessory power port - if present.
Throttle
Lever
Figure 15.7
15.8. On models with a separate choke cable, disconnect the choke cable at the engine end. If the
technician prefers, they may also choose to dis
connect the throttle cable at the engine end.
15.9. Remove the remaining screws that hold the
dash panel to the tractor, and remove the dash.
•Two socket-head cap scre ws (T -40) at each side
of the base of the dash panel (four total).
-
21
Series 1000 and 1500
•Two hex-head cap screws holding the rear
flange of the dash to the frame (1/2” wrench)
•Two hex-head cap screws holding the top of the
dash to the dash support (3/8” wrench).
See Figure 15.9.
Hex-head cap screw
Figure 15.9
15.10.Reverse the removal process to install the dash
panel.
16.4. Remove the hair pin clips holding the linkages to
the levers in the dash.
Figure 16.4
16.5. Remove the screw holding the pivot rod in place.
See Figure 16.5.
Pivot Rod Hex Screw
See Figure 16.4.
Hairpin Clips
•Test the operation of all safety features in a safe
area that is clear of obstacles and bystanders
before returning the tractor to service.
•Test the operation of all controls in a safe area
that is clear of obstacles and bystanders before
returning the tractor to service.
16.CRUISE CONTROL AND PARK BRAKE LINKAGES
16.1. Open the hood.
16.2. On the 1000 series you need to remove the fuel
tank. on the 1500 series you need to remove the
battery.
16.3. The procedure for removing the park brake linkage and the cruise control linkage is the same.
you can remove both at the same time.
Figure 16.5
16.6. Remove the hair pin clip in the pivot rod.
16.7. Work the pivot rod out. sliding it out to the right.
the levers will fall out as the rod clears them.
16.8. Raise the unit off of the ground.
16.9. Remove the brake and drive pedals.
22
Series 1000 and 1500
16.10.Remove the cotter pins in the brake pedal shaft
and the drive pedal shafts.
Cotter Pins
Figure 16.10
16.11.Slide the drive pedal to the right. The inboard
bushing and washer can now be removed. Con
tinue working the drive pedal shaft to the right
and slip it out of the unit.
16.12. Remove the hair pin clip in the brake rod and
disconnect it from the brake pedal shaft.
16.13.Remove the return spring from the brake pedal
shaft.
16.14.Slide the brake pedal shaft to the right and
remove the inboard bushing and washer. Con
tinue sliding the brake pedal shaft to the right
and work it off of the unit.
16.15.Remove both drag links from the tractor.
See Figure 16.10..
-
16.16.Remove the lock nut from the bottom of the
steering shaft. Then slide off the steering shaft
gear.
See Figure 16.16.
Lock Nut
Hex Nut
Figure 16.16
-
16.17.Reaching up through the open in g whe r e the
pedal shafts were, place a 9/16” wrench on the
head of the bolt located in the center rear of the
subframe. Using a 9/16” socket, remove the nut.
See Figure 16.16.
NOTE: There is a sleeve on this bolt that acts as
a spacer between the sub-frame and frame. Be
aware of this sleeve when you lower the sub
frame in a later step.
16.18.There are four screws holding the subframe to
the tractor.Two on each side. Loosen the two
front screws and remove the two rear screws.
See Figure 16.18.
-
NOTE: Make sure to keep the drag links separate so the you know which one is for the left and
which one is for the right. they are not marked
and they are not interchangeable.
Loosen these two.
Sub Frame Hex Screws
Remove these two.
Figure 16.18
23
Series 1000 and 1500
16.19.Pivot the subframe down. Be careful of the
spacer on the bolt and the hex flange bushing for
the steering shaft, they will fall out.
16.20.You now have access to the cruise linkage and
cam lock. You also have access the park brake
linkage and locking plate.
Cruise Control Rod.
Parking Brake Rod
Figure 16.20
16.21.Remove the hair pin clips on the linkages.
Remove the linkages.
See Figure 16.20.
Cam Lock
17.3. Remove the battery hold-down, remove the battery and the battery tray. See Figure 17.3.
Battery Hold Down
Figure 17.3
17.4. Pull the upper drive belt tensioner pulley rearwards to provide slack in the belt, and roll the
belt off of the tensioner pulley.
Tensioner pulley
See Figure 17.4.
16.22.Remove the nut and bolt holding the cruise cam
and/or the park brake locking plate.
16.23.Reassemble in reverse order.
CAUTION: Make sure the linkage rods are
routed properly before you swing the subframe
17.TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT:
CVT
NOTE: There are two drive belts in the CVT sys-
tem. Because they work together on the variable
speed pulley, wear to one belt effects the perfor
mance of the other belt. It is strongly recommended that the belts be replaced as a set.
17.1. Remove the cutting deck from the tractor.
17.2. Tilt-up the seat and disconnect the battery
cables (ground cable first) using a 7/16” wrench.
-
Figure 17.4
17.5. Carefully release the tensioner pulley.
24
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