Cub Cadet 414 series Service Manual
www.mymowerparts.com
Service Manual
4x2 Utility Vehicle
Poly Bed and Steel Bed
NOTE: These materials are prepared for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of equipment of the
kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. Such individuals should seek
the assistance of an authorized service technician or dealer. Read, understand, and follow all directions when working on this equipment. This includes the contents of the Operators Manual, which came with your equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication, although every care has been take to make it as complete and accurate as possible. The right
is reserved to make changes at any time to this document without prior notice and without incurring an obligation to make such
changes to previously published documents. All information contained in this publication is based on product information available at
the time of publication. Photographs and illustrations used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual
model and component parts.
MTD Products Inc. - Product Training and Education Department
FORM NUMBER - 769-01635
12/2004
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Poly Bed 4 X 2 Drive System
Customer Responsibilities ............................................................................................ 1
Gear Lube .....................................................................................................................1
Diagnosis: Confirming Transaxle Fault .........................................................................3
Transmission Linkages ................................................................................................. 3
Diagnosis and Service: Drive Belt and Clutches
(CVT or Continuously Variable Transmission) ...................................................11
Transaxle Removal and Replacement ........................................................................20
Transaxle Installation Notes: .......................................................................................24
Link Assembly .............................................................................................................25
Transaxle Repairs .......................................................................................................26
Poly Bed 4 X 2 Brake System
Maintnance and Description of the Brake System ...................................................... 39
Complete Inspection (Drum and Shoe Removal) ......................................................40
Brake Adjustment (under the hood) 43
4 X 2 Drive System - (Steel Bed)
Customer Responsibilities .......................................................................................... 47
Gear Lube ...................................................................................................................47
Diagnosis: Confirming Transaxle Fault .......................................................................48
Diagnosis and Service: Drive Belt and Clutches
(CVTor Continuously Variable Transmission) ......................................................49
CVT Removal: Driven Pulley ......................................................................................52
CVT Removal: Driving Pulley ......................................................................................53
Transaxle Removal and Replacement ........................................................................55
Transaxle Installation Notes: .......................................................................................59
Link Assembly .............................................................................................................60
Transaxle Orientation ..................................................................................................61
Transaxle Disassembly: Axle tube Removal and Case Separation ............................ 62
Transaxle Disassembly: Gear Set Removal and Disassembly ................................... 64
Transaxle Disassembly: Differential ............................................................................68
Transaxle: Axle Tubes ................................................................................................70
In-cradle Engine Service .............................................................................................74
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Poly Bed 4 X 2 Drive System
Poly Bed 4 X 2 Drive System
ABOUT THIS SECTION:
This section covers the drive system and transaxle
used in the Big Country utility vehicle model series 414
(37AN414J710). This model is distinguished from the
420 and 430 series by a polymer bed and the use of a
different drive system. The 420 and 430 series use a
Honda 18 hp. V-twin engine and a Dana transaxle.
The 414 uses a drive system manufactured by
Kawasaki.
1. CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
• Housing, axle, bearing, or axle tube damage
caused by impact or over-loading constitutes
customer abuse, and is not covered under the
warranty. The poly bed Big Country has a lower
load rating than the steel bed version: 900 Lb.
(410 KG) including bed load, operator, and passenger.
• Damaged caused by shock-loading the transmission is not covered under the warranty.
Shock-loading is primarily caused by shifting
between forward and reverse gears without
allowing the vehicle to come to a full stop. This is
possible if the vehicle is operated abusively
2. GEAR LUBE
2.1. Service intervals: Initial change: 50 hours
Subsequent changes: 500 hours of 2 years
Check level: every 100 hours.
2.2. The transaxle should contain 68 fluid ounces
(2.0 L) API “GL-5” hypoid gear lube.
• SAE 90 weight above 41deg. f. (5 deg. C.)
• SAE 80 weight below 41 deg. f. (5 deg. C.)
2.3. To check the gear lube level, park the vehicle
on a flat level surface.
2.4. Clean the area around the oil fill cap/dipstick
near the back of the transaxle housing and
remove the dipstick.
2.5. Wipe the dipstick clean, insert it back into the
threaded hole, but do not thread it in.
2.6. Withdraw the dipstick and check the oil level. It
should be between the upper and lower level
lines. The area between the lines is marked with
cross-hatch. See Figure 2.6.
• Damage caused by a lubrication failure is not
covered under the warranty.
• It is the customer’s responsibility to have any
leaks repaired in a timely fashion.
• The lug nuts should be inspected for looseness
after the first ten hours of operation. Lug nuts
should be tightened to a torque of 55-60 ft.-lbs.
• The brakes are not self-adjusting. It is the customer’s responsibility to maintain them in good
working order and proper adjustment, whether
directly or through an authorized Cub Cadet Servicing Dealer.
• It is the customer’s responsibility to maintain the
vehicle in accordance with the Operator’s Manual. This includes an initial gear lube change
after 50 hours of operation, and changes every
500 hours of operation (or 2 years) thereafter.
• The gear lube level should be checked every
100 hours of operation. At this time a visual
inspection should be made for leaks or damage.
Dipstick location
Figure 2.6
2.7. If additional lube is needed, confirm the current
contents of the transaxle, and add more of the
same to reach the specified level.
2.8. If additional fluid is needed, inspect the transaxle
for leaks or damage. If leakage is found, make
any necessary repairs before returning the vehicle to service.
1
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2.9. A blocked vent can provoke oil leaks. The vent is
located at the top of the transaxle housing.
See Figure 2.9.
Vent line
Figure 2.9
2.10. To change the gear lube: Clean the area
around the fill and drain plugs before removing
either.
2.13. Remove the oil fill cap/dipstick. This will allow air
to enter the transaxle faster, which will allow the
gear lube to drain faster.
2.14. Install the drain plug and tighten it to a torque of
132 in.-lb. (15 N-m).
2.15. Add 68 fluid ounces (2.0 L) API “GL-5” hypoid
gear lube, and install the oil fill cap/dipstick.
• SAE 90 weight above 41deg. f. (5 deg. C.)
• SAE 80 weight below 41 deg. f. (5 deg. C.)
2.16. Confirm the correct fluid level by by inserting
(but not threading-in) the fill cap/dipstick, and
withdrawing it to read the level.
2.11. Place a drain pan under the transaxle.
See Figure 2.11.
Drain plug
Figure 2.11
2.12. Remove the drain plug at the lower left corner of
the transaxle using a 12mm wrench.
NOTE: 80 and 90 weight gear lubes are very
thick at low temperatures, and may take considerable time to drain if the ambient temperature is
below 41 deg. f. (5 deg. C.)
2
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3. DIAGNOSIS: CONFIRMING TRANSAXLE FAULT
3.1. Get as much information as possible from the
customer regarding symptoms and circumstances.
3.1. Inspect the vehicle for physical damage and
clues regarding the nature and cause of failure.
3.2. Carefully operate the vehicle if possible, to confirm noises and symptoms.
3.3. Confirm whether the problem is internal, in the
shift linkage, brake system, or the belt drive system (CVT):
• If a drive gear (forward or reverse) or the differential lock fail to engage or disengage by manually overriding the shift mechanism.
• Shift mechanism issues can be isolated from
internal issues by disconnecting the cables at
the transaxle end, and operating the transaxle
directly.
• Performance problems such as failure to reach
full speed are likely to be caused by engine,
brake, or belt/clutch issues.
• Complaints of “lurchy” operation are an indication that the brakes may be dragging or adjusted
too tight.
• It is easy to check for dragging brakes by pushing the vehicle with the parking brake released,
or by jacking-up the back of the vehicle and
checking the wheels for ease-of rotation.
• Refer to the “Brake” section of this manual for
service and adjustment information.
• Gear clash can result from drive being applied to
the input shaft during shifting. Refer to the
“CVT” section of this manual for performance
information.
• Gear “spit-out” or gear clash when the gear
selector is in Neutral can result from a misadjusted shift linkage. Refer to the “Transmission Linkage” section of this manual.
4. TRANSMISSION LINKAGES
Shift Control Cable
4.1. It is possible to remove the gear shift control
cable and gear shift control independently or
together.
4.2. To gain access to the gear shift control, tilt both
seats forward, and remove the console/cup
holder using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.2.
Differential
lock return spring
4.3. Unbolt the console support plate from the frame
using a 7/16” wrench.
NOTE: The vacuum driven fuel pump is
mounted to the bottom of the console support
plate. It may be unbolted from the plate using a
pair of 7/16” wrenches so that the plate may be
completely removed. It is not absolutely necessary to unbolt the fuel pump if the support plate
is only moved aside for access.
4.4. Un-hook the differential lock return spring from
the console support plate, and move (or remove)
the plate.
Console support plate
Fuel pump mounting bolts
Figure 4.2
• Under-steer (vehicle is less responsive to steering wheel in-puts) accompanied by rear wheel
squeal during turning maneuvers indicates that
the differential lock is engaged. If this condition
exists when the differential lock lever is
released, refer to the “Transmission Linkages”
section of this manual.
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4.5. There is a black plastic cover on the gearshift
control. Slide it rearward, then lift it away from
the gear shift control to expose the cable attachment. See Figure 4.5.
Gear shift control
Plastic cover
Gear shift cable
Figure 4.5
NOTE: There is a lip at the front edge of the
cover that will provide sufficient purchase to
slide the cover back.
4.6. With the cover removed, lift the shift control
cable housing end out of the recess that locates
it in the shift control housing. See Figure 4.6.
Shift Control
4.8. If the shift control is to be removed, the knob
must be taken-off the shift lever. It threads off.
See Figure 4.8.
Knob Lock collar Spring
Figure 4.8
4.9. The knob retains a spring and a lock collar. Both
can be removed after the knob is taken off.
See Figure 4.9.
Hook
Cable housing end
Figure 4.6
4.7. Disengage the hooked end of the cable from the
shift control and lift the cable out of the shift control housing.
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Figure 4.9
4.10. Three nuts and bolts secure the shifter control to
the frame. The nuts may be removed with a pair
of 7/16” wrenches. The shifter control may then
be removed.
4.11. There are no internal replacement parts available through Cub Cadet for the shifter control. It
is to be replaced as an assembly.
4
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Poly Bed 4 X 2 Drive System
4.12. Within the housing for the shifter control there is
a torsion spring that returns the shift lever to the
center of its travel. There is not a detent mechanism in the shifter control. See Figure 4.12.
Return spring
Figure 4.12
4.13. On installation of the shifter control:
4.16. Match-mark the shifter arm to the splined end of
the shift arm shaft, then remove the clamp bolt
using a 10 mm wrench.
NOTE: The clamp bolt engages a groove in the
shift shaft. It must be removed.
4.17. Use a pair of 7/8” wrenches to remove the end
jam nut on the threaded end of the cable housing. The cable core will pass through a slot in
the bracket. See Figure 4.17.
Jam nuts
• Position the bolts in the shifter control housing
prior to installation. There is insufficient lateral
clearance to instal them all in-situ.
• Tighten the nut to 96 in-lb. (10.848 Nm). If the
nuts are too tight, the housing will distort, and
operating effort will increase.
4.14. If the cable is to be replaced, the front end of the
cable can be disconnected as described in the
procedure for removal of the shifter control.
4.15. The back end of the cable is permanently
attached to the shifter arm. See Figure 4.15.
Index
mark
Clamp bolt
Figure 4.17
4.18. The cable can be withdrawn from the vehicle in
either direction. See Figure 4.18.
Note cable routing
Figure 4.18
NOTE: The correct routing of the cable: through
the recess in the lower front corner of the tank.
4.19. Confirm that the cable is correctly adjusted
Figure 4.15
5
before returning the vehicle to service.
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Shift Control Adjustment
4.20. To adjust the shift cable, use the neutral safety
switch to confirm the neutral position.
See Figure 4.20.
Use safety switch
to find neutral
Figure 4.20
• Connect a powered continuity light or an Ohm
meter between the terminal on the neutral switch
and a good ground. This test works key-off.
4.21. With the transmission confirmed to be in neutral
by the meter or light connected to the switch,
move the gearshift lever to the neutral position.
4.22. Adjust the jam nuts as necessary so that the
contacts in the neutral switch open when the
gearshift lever is moved an equal distance in the
direction of forward and reverse gear positions.
See Figure 4.22.
Adjust cable here
Figure 4.22
• Otherwise, connect a test light in series between
the terminal on the neutral switch and the eyelet
on the wire that attaches to it. This test works
key-on, engine-off.
• When the continuity or test light bulb illuminates,
or the Ohm meter registers zero, the contacts
within the switch are closed.
• When the neutral switch is closed, the transmission is in neutral. Move the shifter through its
range of travel to confirm that the switch is working correctly.
• There is a significant range of travel around the
neutral position before the contacts in the neutral
switch open.
4.23. Tighten the jam nuts and test the operation of
the shift control before returning the unit to service.
4.24. Inspect the cable for wear or damage. Replace
it if there are any signs of fraying, binding, kinking or damage to the cable housing.
4.25. Lubricate the cable with light oil (penetrating oil
or cable lube) any time it is removed, and at 500
hr. intervals when the gear lube is changed.
4.26. Depending on the type of service being done,
the gear shift control cable may be removed
from it sprocket on the transaxle, or the bracket
may be removed from the transaxle housing
using a 10 mm wrench.
4.27. On installation, the gear shift control bracket
should be tightened to a torque of 78 in-lb. (8.8
N-m).
6
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Poly Bed 4 X 2 Drive System
Differential Lock Control
In normal operation, a differential allows the two rear
wheels to rotate at different speeds. In a turning
maneuver, the wheels toward the outside of the turn
follow a path that describes a greater circumference
than the wheels toward the inside of the turn. Because
the outside wheels must turn faster than the inside
wheels, a differential is necessary.
Because it allows the rear wheels to rotate at different
speeds, a standard differential can only provide drive to
one wheel. One method of getting more traction is to
provide a manual device that over-rides the differential
feature by locking the two sides of the differential
together, providing drive to both rear wheels at the
same time.
It is not desirable to lock the differential together all the
time because it limits the turning radius of the vehicle:
• The two wheels driving at the same speed tend
to want to push the vehicle straight ahead.
• When the vehicle does turn, the two rear wheels
will fight against each-other for traction. In the
process they will apply exaggerated loads to the
drive train.
4.29. If the Big Country vehicle exhibits symptoms
indicating that the differential lock is not engaging or disengaging properly, investigation should
begin with the control cable.
4.30. The differential lock control lever pivots on a
large clevis pin. The clevis pin is secured to the
frame by a hairpin clip.
4.31. The spring on the end of the differential lock control cable connects to one arm of the differential
lock control lever, and a return spring connects
to the other arm. The other end of the return
spring hooks to the console support bracket.
4.32. To reach the differential lock control and cable:
See Figure 4.32.
Return spring, disconnected from
console support bracket
4.28. In normal use:
• The differential lock should engage when the differential lock lever is pulled-up.
• There are five engagement dogs on the differential. The rear wheels must rotate at most 72
degrees relative to one-another before the
engagement dogs align, allowing them to lock
together.
• Pulling-up on the differential lock lever extends
the spring at the front of the differential lock control cable. The spring applies force to the cable
and the differential lock lever on the transaxle.
When the engagement dogs align, the spring
force will push them into engagement.
• Once engaged, the lever may be released, and
the differential will remain locked until the drive
load on the left and right wheels is equalized.
• When the drive load between the rear wheels is
equalized, the load on the differential lock dogs
is relieved. When the load is relieved, torsion
spring on the differential lock lever will overcome the friction between the differential lock
dogs, and cause them to disengage.
Control cable
Figure 4.32
• Fold the seats forward.
• Remove the tool box from beneath the passenger seat, if so equipped.
• Remove the cup holder/console using a 7/16”
wrench.
• Unbolt the console support bracket using a 3/8”
wrench.
• Unhook the differential lock control return spring,
and move the console support bracket aside.
4.33. Operate the differential lock control lever, and
observe the movement of the cable and differential lock lever on the transaxle.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate one of the
rear wheels to align the differential lock dogs
before full engagement will occur. This is normal.
7
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4.34. If the linkage binds, disconnect the cable to isolate the external portion of the linkage from internal transaxle components.
4.35. Disconnect the differential lock control cable
from the differential lock control lever: Pull the
cable forward to get clearance to unhook the
spring at the end of the cable. See Figure 4.35.
Figure 4.35
4.36. There is sufficient slack in the cable to disconnect the barrel on the rear end of the cable from
the differential lock lever on the transaxle as
well: either end may be disconnected first.
See Figure 4.36.
4.37. With the cable disconnected, check the operation of the differential lock lever, and the torsion
spring that returns it to the unlocked position.
See Figure 4.37.
Figure 4.37
NOTE: Confirm that the torsion spring is prop-
erly positioned. Replacement of the torsion
spring with one that has a shorter leg was the
subject of Service Bulletin CC-456
4.38. The back of the cable is secured to the cable
holder by a pair of jam nuts: one on each side of
the cable holder. See Figure 4.38.
Disconnect barrel
from arm
Figure 4.36
Figure 4.38
4.39. Depending on the nature of the repair, the cable
holder can be unbolted from the transaxle housing, or the rear jam nut can be removed and the
cable withdrawn from the holder. A 10mm
wrench will fit the jam nuts and the cable holder
bolts.
8
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4.40. Tighten the cable bracket mounting bolts to a
torque of 78 in-lb. (8.8 N-m) on installation.
4.41. The cable is secured to a bracket near the front
mounting point of the engine and transaxle cradle. See Figure 4.41.
Note: cable routing
Figure 4.41
4.42. The cable is secured by two jam nuts that can be
removed using a 10 mm wrench.
4.46. The clevis pin that holds the differential lock control lever to the frame cannot be removed with
the fuel tank secured in position.
See Figure 4.46.
Move fuel tank
to remove pin
Figure 4.46
4.47. The fuel tank bracket assembly can be removed
using 7/16” wrench. See Figure 4.47.
4.43. Correct cable routing: cable mounted to right
side of bracket, then curved to the left to pass
beneath the air filter bracket.
4.44. Inspect the cable for wear or damage. Replace
it if there are any signs of fraying, binding, kinking or damage to the cable housing.
4.45. Lubricate the cable with light oil (penetrating oil
or cable lube) any time it is removed, and at 500
hr. intervals when the gear lube is changed.
Figure 4.47
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4.48. With the bracket removed, the fuel tank can be
moved far enough back to allow the clevis pin to
be removed. See Figure 4.48.
Pin removal
Figure 4.48
4.49. Apply anti-seize compound or white lithium
grease to the portion of the pin that the differential lock control lever pivots on when it is reinstalled.
Differential Lock Control Cable Adjustment
4.50. When the differential lock is disengaged, the
spring at the front of the cable should be fully
retracted, there should be slight slack in the
cable, and the differential lock control arm
should be at the end of its rearward travel (all the
way back). See Figure 4.50.
4.51. When fully engaged, the differential lock arm
should pull forward about 7/8” (2.22 cm) as measured at the center of the barrel on the end of the
cable core. See Figure 4.51.
7/8”
Figure 4.51
4.52. There is much more travel available to the cable
than is necessary to fully engage the differential
lock. The spring at the front of the cable accommodates the over-travel.
4.53. As long as the arm on the transaxle hits the back
end of its travel when the differential lock is
released, and hits the front end of its travel when
the differential lock is engaged, the cable adjustment is correct.
4.54. If cable adjustment is necessary, it may be
accomplished with the jam nuts on either side of
the differential lock cable bracket.
See Figure 4.54.
Easiest point for
cable adjustment
Figure 4.50
Figure 4.54
10
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5. DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE: DRIVE BELT AND CLUTCHES (CVT OR CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE TRANSMISSION)
5.1. Performance problems such as lack of power or
failure to reach full speed may be caused by:
engine performance issues, dragging brakes, or
belt/clutch issues.
5.2. Confirm whether the problem is internal to the
transaxle, in the brake system, or in the belt
drive and pulley system (CVT):
Transaxle
• If one drive gear (forward or reverse) or the differential lock fail to engage or disengage by
manually overriding the shift mechanism.
• Problems originating in the CVT will effect travel
in both forward and reverse: The belt and
clutches act on the input shaft of the transaxle.
• If forward or reverse gear is engaged, the
brakes released, and the vehicle is pushed, the
input shaft of the transaxle should rotate.
• The driven pulley is visible through an air
exhaust port in the back of the belt cover. It
should rotate with the input shaft of the transaxle.
• If the driven pulley does not rotate when the
vehicle is pushed in gear, the problem lies within
the transmission, the gear shift control/cable, or
the driven pulley has come loose from the input
shaft.
Brakes
• Complaints of “lurchy” operation are an indication that the brakes may be dragging or adjusted
too tight.
• It is easy to check for dragging brakes by pushing the vehicle with the parking brake released,
or by jacking-up the back of the vehicle and
checking the wheels for ease-of rotation.
• Refer to the “Brake” section of this manual for
service and adjustment information.
Engine
• Engine performance issues will likely be accompanied by other engine-based symptoms: oil
smoke, black smoke from an overly rich condition, rough running, or poor idle quality.
CVT
• Gear clash can result from drive being applied to
the input shaft during shifting (at idle speed).
• Possible causes of drive force being applied at
idle speed include: high idle speed, misalignment between engine and transaxle, wrong belt,
damaged driving pulley or damaged driven pulley.
• Loss of drive (complete or slippage) may occur
because of a worn belt, wet belt / pulleys, damaged pulleys.
• Loss of top speed other than engine or brake
problems) may occur because of a worn belt,
wet belt / pulleys, damaged pulleys.
• Most CVT diagnosis is done through simple
observation and measurement.
• This is an enclosed drive system with an air filter
and a cooling fan. Loss of air-flow will cause the
CVT to over-heat, and will effect performance.
Maintenance
• The CVT system should be inspected at 250
hour or 1 year intervals. The air filter should be
removed and inspected, and the CVT cover
should be removed for belt measurement and
inspection.
• The air filter should be inspected every 50 hours
of operation.
• Air filter life will vary with operating conditions. A
dusty environment will necessitate more frequent maintenance of the engine and CVT air filters.
• Belt life will vary with operating conditions. High
load, high ambient temperatures, dusty conditions, operation on grades, and high number of
stop/start cycles are among factors that will tend
to shorten belt life.
• Any change in performance noted by the operator should prompt inspection.
• Any factors indicative of potential drive problems
should prompt inspection. eg.: evidence of
rodent nesting, or evidence of oil leakage from
engine or transaxle.
• Refer to the Engine” section of this manual for
diagnosis and repair of engine performance
issues.
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Inspection
5.3. Park the vehicle on a firm level surface, with the
ignition turned off, and lift the load bed to provide
access to the drive system.
5.4. Allow the exhaust system to cool before proceeding.
5.5. Inspect the CVT system air filter. The filter is
located in front of the outer cover for the CVT. It
is connected to the intake plenum by a molded
hose, and it is connected to the outer CVT cover
by a flexible hose. See Figure 5.5.
5.8. The CVT air filter has a foam wrap pre-filter over
the paper filter element. The foam wrap can be
washed in mild detergent, rinsed, dried, and reused. Do not oil the foam wrap. See Figure 5.8.
CVT pre-filter CVT air filter
Figure 5.8
5.9. The paper filter can be tapped-out. Do not blow
it clean with pressurized air. Replace it if it
shows significant dirt between the pleats.
CVT filter housing
Figure 5.5
5.6. Remove the two wing screws from the air filter
cover.
5.7. Lift the cover and remove the filter.
See Figure 5.7.
5.10. To remove the CVT drive cover, the air filter
assembly must be removed.
5.11. Loosen the hose clamp that secures the flexible
hose from the air filter to the CVT cover, and disconnect the hose from the cover.
See Figure 5.11.
Flexible hose from plenum
via filter, to CVT
Figure 5.11
Figure 5.7
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5.12. Loosen the hose clamp that secures the molded
hose from the air filter to the plenum.
See Figure 5.12.
Figure 5.12
5.13. Remove the two bolts that hold the air filter
housing to the air filter bracket using a 1/2”
wrench, and remove the filter assembly.
5.14. The exhaust pipe interferes with the removal of
the CVT cover. It must be removed.
5.16. Disconnect the front flange of the exhaust pipe
from the cylinder head using a 12 mm wrench.
See Figure 5.16.
Flange mount to cylinder head
Exhaust pipe
Figure 5.16
5.17. Remove the exhaust pipe.
5.18. Remove the 9 screws holding the CVT cover to
the CVT housing using an 8 mm wrench, and
maneuver the cover out of the engine compartment. See Figure 5.18.
NOTE: For testing and diagnostic purposes,
existing exhaust flange gaskets may be re-used.
Any time the exhaust pipe is removed, it should
be reinstalled using new gaskets before returning the vehicle to service.
5.15. Disconnect the rear flange of the exhaust pipe
from the muffler using two 13 mm wrenches.
See Figure 5.15.
Flange mount to
muffler
Exhaust
pipe
CVT cover removed
Figure 5.18
Figure 5.15
13
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5.19. Inspect the belt and clutches (pulleys) for obvious damage and wear: See Figure 5.19.
21 mm min.
Figure 5.19
• The belt should measure at least.827” (21 mm)
across the outside (wide) surface (service limit).
If it measures less than this it is worn, and
should be replaced.
• New belts should measure .906” (23 mm).
• Confirm that the correct belt is on the vehicle:
Cub Cadet Part # 754-04054.
• The arrow printed on the belt should point in the
direction of the belts rotation.
5.20. With the transaxle in neutral, it should be possible to rotate the driven pulley (on the transaxle)
without applying a force of more than 20 in-lbs.
(2.26 Nm) to the driving pulley (on the engine).
See Figure 5.20.
• A torque wrench with a 13 mm socket on it
should read less than 20 in.-lbs.(2.26 Nm) while
rotating the input shaft. The belt should slip easily on the driving pulley.
• If this figure is exceeded, remove the belt and
repeat the test. This will confirm if the bind is
internal or external.
• If the problem is internal, examine the transaxle,
if the problem is external, examine the CVT.
• If there is excessive drag, and the outer sheave
of the driving pulley is fully retracted, there may
be an alignment or spacing problem between the
crankshaft of the engine and the input shaft of
the transaxle. If there is an alignment problem,
it may be indicated by asymmetric wear on the
belt.
5.21. The distance between the centerline of the
crankshaft and the centerline of the input shaft
should be 9.41” (23.9 cm). The two shafts must
be parallel in vertical and horizontal axis.
NOTE: As a practical matter, this is a difficult
measurement to make without specialized fixtures. A combination of measurement, adjustment, and experimentation may be necessary in
the field.
5.22. To check the performance of the CVT, install the
exhaust pipe, but leave the CVT exposed for
observation.
5.23. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
5.24. With the vehicle in neutral, insure that no unsafe
conditions will arise from starting the engine.
NOTE: Perform the following procedure with all
due caution to ensure that no foreign objects,
including the technician, come into contact with
rotating components.
20 in-lbs to rotate here
Figure 5.20
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5.25. Confirm that the throttle cable, and the travel
stops on the throttle cable are adjusted to provide the full range of travel without straining the
cable:
5.26. There should be roughly 3/16” (4.8 mm) of play
at the eyelet that connects the throttle cable to
the throttle pedal. See Figure 5.26.
3/16” free play
3/16” free play
Figure 5.26
• The adjustment can be made through a combination of stop bolt (1/2” wrench) and throttle
cable position (two 10 mm wrenches).
• Too little pedal travel in comparison to available
cable travel will result in sub-optimal engine performance.
• Too much pedal travel, in comparison to available cable travel will “load” the linkage, and may
damage components through bending or fatigue.
• Tension on the cable when the pedal is at rest,
or a cable that fails to return all the way to idle
position may cause an artificially high idle speed.
5.28. Start the engine and check the idle speed controlled by the stop-screw on the throttle arm of
the carburetor. See Figure 5.28.
Stop screw Set throttle stop
idle to 1100 RPM
5.27. The throttle pedal arm should reach the end of
its available travel, as set by the stop-bolt and
jam nut as the governor linkage reaches the end
of its travel at the engine end of the cable.
See Figure 5.27.
Governed idle stop
Figure 5.27
Throttle arm
Figure 5.28
NOTE: The engine should be fully warmed-up
prior to this adjustment. Engine temperature has
a significant effect on idle speed.
15
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5.29. Hold the throttle arm against the stop screw.
Adjust the stop screw to set the engine speed to
1,100 RPM +
5.30. Release the throttle arm, then set the governed
idle speed to 1,200 RPM +
50.
50. See Figure 5.30.
Figure 5.30
NOTE: If the idle speed is set too low, the engine
will stall at idle. If warm idle speed has fallen
with time, check the condition of engine tune-up
factors (compression, valve lash, spark plug, air
filter) before making adjustment.
5.32. Gradually increase the speed of the engine
(manually, not through adjustment), and observe
the point where the outer sheave of the driving
pulley moves in to compress against the belt.
See Figure 5.32.
Driving clutch
at start of
travel
5.31. The idle speed is controlled by the phillips head
screw on the governor control panel.
See Figure 5.31.
Set governed idle here
Figure 5.31
NOTE: If the idle speed is set too high, the driv-
ing pulley will begin to apply force to the belt.
This will turn the input pulley of the transaxle
with enough force to cause gear clash when forward or reverse gear are engaged, and it may
cause difficulty in disengaging drive gears.
Figure 5.32
5.33. The belt should be squeezed between the
sheaves at 1,400 +
5.34. By 3,300 +
driving pulley should be fully extended.
See Figure 5.34.
100 RPM the outer sheave of the
100 RPM.
Driving clutch
fully engaged
Figure 5.34
16
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5.35. As the driving pulley compresses the belt, it is
forced outward in the tapered sheave.
NOTE: As the effective diameter of the driving
pulley increases, the belt is drawn deeper into
the sheave of the spring loaded driven pulley,
reducing its effective diameter. The combined
effect changes the drive ratio as speed goes up.
NOTE: Because the outer sheave of the driving
pulley is fully extended by around 3,300 RPM,
any vehicle speed increase beyond 3,300 RPM
engine speed is due directly to increases in
engine RPM, not to shifts in the effective drive
ratio.
5.36. If the vehicle fails to reach full speed (20 MPH)
or has lost performance, and the belt is good,
confirm that the engine still achieves it’s specified top-no-load speed and that the CVT
responds accordingly.
5.37. Top-no-load engine speed should be 4,000 +
RPM. Confirm this with a tachometer.
See Figure 5.37.
50
CVT Removal: Belt and Pulleys
5.39. Remove the exhaust pipe and CVT cover as
described previously in this section.
NOTE: If the belt is to be removed, but the pulleys are to be left in-place, it is not necessary to
remove the exhaust pipe. The CVT cover can
be moved aside, and the belt slipped-out. The
CVT cover does not need to be completely
removed to change a belt.
5.40. Disconnect and ground the spark plug H.T. lead.
5.41. If the pulleys are to be removed, loosen the bolts
that hold the pulleys to their respective shafts
before removing the belt.
NOTE: The bolts securing both CVT pulleys are
left hand thread. Turn them clockwise to
loosen them.
5.42. The driven pulley on the input shaft of the transaxle can be removed using a 12 mm wrench.
Use an adjustable face pin spanner with reach of
at least 3” (7.62 cm) and a 1/4” (6 cm) pin size
(Snap-On stock number AFS483 is suitable) to
keep the pulley from rotating. See Figure 5.42.
Figure 5.37
NOTE: The governor cover is riveted to the con-
trol plate. It is not adjustable.
5.38. If the engine fails to reach the specified top noload speed, or lacks performance under a light
load, check engine performance factors as
described in the Engine section of this manual:
• Ignition function and spark plug condition.
• Fuel system condition (fuel pump and lines, fuel
filter, air filter, carburetor, linkages).
• Engine mechanical condition (valve lash adjustment, cylinder compression, cylinder leakdown).
K&T Saw Shop 606-678-9623 or 606-561-4983
Figure 5.42
• Setting the parking brake will also help.
• If no other means are available, the pulley can
be held with a 2” (50 mm) wrench on the large
nut.
5.43. The bolt holding the driving pulley to the engine
crankshaft can be loosened using a 14 mm
wrench.
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5.44. If it is necessary to hold the crankshaft from turning: choose one of three methods.
See Figure 5.44.
• Remove the spark plug using a 13/16” (21 mm)
wrench. With the piston rising on the compression stroke pack the cylinder with starter rope to
act as a piston stop.
• Remove the flywheel cover using 10 mm
wrench, and hold the flywheel nut using a 22 mm
wrench.
• Use a strap wrench on the driving pulley.
5.46. Roll the belt off of the driven pulley on the transaxle. See Figure 5.46.
Figure 5.46
5.47. To remove the driven pulley, begin by removing
the bolt that holds it to the input shaft of the transaxle using a 3/4” wrench.
Remove screws to reach
flywheel nut
Figure 5.44
5.45. Tug upward on the top run of the belt. This will
spread the sheaves of the driven pulley, and create enough slack in the belt to allow easy
removal. See Figure 5.45.
NOTE: If an impact wrench is not available, it
may be necessary to manually place the transmission in Forward gear and set the parking
brake.
5.48. Carefully roll the drive belt off of the driven pulley, then remove it from the driving pulley.
See Figure 5.48.
Figure 5.48
5.49. Reverse the process for installation.
Figure 5.45
18
NOTE: The arrow on the belt points in the direc-
tion of travel.
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5.50. After the belt is removed, the driven pulley can
be removed: See Figure 5.50.
• Take the bolt and washer that secure the pulley
onto the transaxle input shaft completely off
using a 12 mm wrench.
• Slide the pulley off of the input shaft. It may be
necessary to carefully pry on the pulley hub.
• There is a key between the pulley and the input
shaft, and a spacer between the pulley and the
shoulder on the input shaft.
Spacer
Key
Driven pulley
5.54. After the belt is removed, the driving pulley can
be removed: See Figure 5.54.
• Remove the bolt and washer securing the driving pulley to the engine crankshaft using a 14
mm wrench.
• Slide the driving pulley off of the crankshaft.
• There is a key between the pulley and the input
shaft, and a spacer between the pulley and the
shoulder on the crankshaft. The spacer is
notched to fit over the key.
Figure 5.50
5.51. If the driven pulley does not function properly,
replace it as a complete unit.
5.52. On installation:
• Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to
the input shaft.
• Confirm that the spacer and key are properly
positioned. The chamfered side of the spacer
should face the shoulder on the crankshaft.
• Slip the driven pulley all the way onto the input
shaft, and seat it against the spacer.
• Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) to the threads
of the bolt.
• Secure the pulley to the input shaft with the bolt
and washer. Tighten the bolt to a torque of: 24 ftlb (32 N-m).
5.53. Key points to inspect on the driven pulley are the
ramp surfaces on the cams, and the polymer
buttons that ride against the ramps.
Figure 5.54
5.55. If the driven pulley does not function properly,
replace it as a complete unit.
5.56. On installation:
• Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to
the crankshaft.
• Confirm that the spacer and key are properly
positioned. The chamfered side of the spacer
should face the shoulder on the crankshaft. The
key should fit through the notch in the spacer.
• Slip the driven pulley all the way onto the input
shaft, and seat it against the spacer.
• Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) to the threads
of the bolt.
• Secure the pulley to the input shaft with the bolt
and washer. Tighten the bolt to a torque of: 31 ftlb (42 N-m).
19
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5.57. Beyond the warranty period, if a dealer chooses
to service a driven clutch, service information
and specialized tools are available from:
Hoffco/Comet Industries
358 NW F Street
Richmond, IN 47374
5.58. The CVT housing connects the engine to the
transaxle. It can be removed using a 12 mm
wrench. See Figure 5.58.
Spacers
Keys
6. TRANSAXLE REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
The transaxle is carried on the engine/transaxle cradle,
and the entire cradle moves up and down with the
travel of the suspension. It pivots on a dog-bone joint to
allow for some degree of axial twist in relation to the
rest of the chassis, as well as up and down travel. The
engine and transaxle cradle maintains correct alignment and spacing between the engine and the transaxle. The transaxle also mounts directly to the leaf
springs.
6.1. Park the utility vehicle on firm level ground
where there is sufficient room to work around the
sides and rear of the vehicle. Set the parking
brake.
6.2. Unlatch the hood and tilt it forward. It may be
removed completely at the technician’s discretion.
6.3. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a
7/16” wrench.
6.4. Place a drain pan beneath the transaxle, and
remove the drain plug using a 17 mm wrench.
See Figure 6.4.
Figure 5.58
5.59. If the engine or transmission has been removed,
the CVT housing can be used as a guide to align
them. An assembly jig (P/N: 57001-1341) is
available from Kawasaki.
5.60. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) to the 7 bolts
that hold the CVT housing in place prior to installation. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 160 in-lb
(18 N-m).
5.61. Complete assembly, connect spark plug H.T.
lead, and thoroughly test operation in an area
that is clear of obstacles and hazards before
returning the vehicle to service.
Drain plug
Figure 6.4
NOTE: Removing the fill plug/dipstick will speed
the draining process.
6.5. If working without an impact wrench: loosen the
lug nuts on the rear wheels 1/2 turn each using a
19 mm wrench.
20
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6.6. Lift the bed. Remove the exhaust pipe and the
CVT assembly, including the housing, as
described in the CVT section of this manual.
See Figure 6.6.
CVT housing
Figure 6.6
6.7. Index the forward-neutral-reverse shift arm on
the transaxle to the splined shaft that it mounts
to. Remove the clamp bolt that secures it using
a 10 mm wrench.
6.8. Remove the two bolts that hold the shift cable
bracket to the transaxle using a 12 mm wrench.
See Figure 6.8.
6.10. Remove the two bolts that hold the differential
lock cable bracket to the transaxle using a 10
mm wrench. There will be enough slack in the
cable to permit the barrel end to be disengaged
from the differential lock arm on the transaxle.
See Figure 6.10.
Differential lock
control cable
bracket
Figure 6.10
6.11. Unbolt the muffler from the frame using a pair of
1/2” wrenches. Unbolt the muffler from the transaxle using a 13 mm wrench. See Figure 6.11.
Shift cable bracket
Figure 6.8
6.9. Remove the shift arm from the shaft, and move
the cable out of the way.
Frame mounts
Transaxle mount
Figure 6.11
6.12. Release the parking brake.
21
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