Assembly Manual
1/12th scale road race car kit
Center Pivot
Bag 1
3374 - Center Pivot Socket
40194 - Hard Anodized
Alum Pivot ball
3254 - 2-56 Button Head
*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the top clamp screws,
then work the ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball
floats around very free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you
could warp the pivot socket.
Center Pivot
Bag 1
slightly
3357 - Xti-WC
Chassis Plate
3374
1430 -
1/2” x 4-40
FH Allen-SS
12772 -
4-40 Thin
Hex Nut
1209 - Washer
1412 - Red Locknut
3357
1
Bag 2
1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
3224 - Rear Bottom Plate
1412 - Red Locknut
1430 - 4-40 x ½”
Flat Head
3254 - 2-56 Button Head
3281 -
One-Piece
Side Links
3224
3281
*NOTE - Before installing, inspect the side links
and you will notice that the screw holes on one
side of the link are larger than the holes on the
other side. Before popping the links on the balls,
be sure that the larger hole faces toward the
outside of the chassis.
Slide the 2-56 button head screws through the
large holes in the outside of the side links, and
then thread them into the small inner holes as
shown in the illustration. Do not tighten these
screws down all the way. Put just enough
tension on them so that there is no play in the
links, but so they pivot freely on the balls. The
car will NOT handle properly if the links are too
tight on the balls!
Setting the One-piece links
1 - Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.
There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot
“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links
to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links
and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Xti.
2 - Snap the 2 links on the balls (done in previous step). They should rock freely on
the pivot balls.
3 - Place the chassis / rear bottom plate assembly on a flat surface. No tires and
no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be
sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a
straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the
car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any
tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.
4 - Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing
the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that
secure the center pivot assembly. For now, just lightly
snug one side then the other.
5 - Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of
rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-toside. It should move free without binding or "clicking".
If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.
If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the center pivot more
securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the
hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the center pivot
assembly to the chassis. The handling of the Xti hinges (pun intended!) on the
free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.
(not the rear pod)
Rotate
Center
Pivot
H
2
Slider Pod
Bag 3
33401 - Motor Plate
33411 - Slider Bearing Carrier
33421 - Left Side Pod Plate
3375 - Graphite X-brace
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
33401
1435 - 4-40 x 7/16”
Button Head
33411
3375
33421
Tweak Plate
Bag 4
3288 - 4-40 x 3/8”
set screw
Thread the set screw
in until flush with the
bottom of the holder.
Make sure spring coil
is seated into groove
on spring holder.
3387 - Molded Plastic
Spring Holder
3375 - Molded ½”
Standoffs (4)
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
32113 - Tweak Plate
1793 - Pro Tapered
Springs .50mm
32113
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
3375
3
Top Plate
Bag 4
3225 - Xti Altered Ego
Rear Top Plate
1409 - Red Alum
4-40 Ballstud
3225
1412 - Red Locknut
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
Damper Tubes
Bag 5
1
4505
4510
4520
4530
5
1397 - 2-56 set-
screw stud
Lube
Tube
CRC
1384 - 2-56 Steel Ballstud
& Plastic Ball Cup
32693 - Delrin Plunger
.188 "
5 - Add CRC Tube Lube to each slot on the delrin plunger.
*** : fill only the slots, not the entire aluminum tube. ***Note
2
.125 "
1288 - 4-40 x 5/16”
set screw
32691 - Aluminum Tube
13694 - Short 4-40 Plastic
Ball Cup (on tree)
13695 - .035”
Allen Driver
4
3
** Adding the Damper Tubes to the Chassis assembly **
Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the respective points as
shown in the diagram to the right. You will find it easier to snap on the
centered, smaller 2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40 ballcups
4
Battery Mount
Bag 6
1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
3373 - Plastic Battery Position Pieces
1261 - Battery Retention O-ring
3373
Center Shock
Bag 7
3354 - CRC Shock/Ant Mount
1347 - Fiberglass Anti-Roll Antenna
1347
3354
1409 - Red Alum
4-40 Ballstud
1428 - 4-40 x
3/8” FH
13783 - 4-40 x 1/8”
Set Screw
5
Center Shock
3290 -
Bag 7
1 - Thread the spring adjuster nut onto the shock body as shown. *This needs to be installed first or you will not be able to get it on later after the lower endof
the shock is assembled!*
2 - Insert only 1 of the small o-rings into the lower end of the shock body. Next, install the bottom shock plug and tighten the bottom shock cap.
3 - Insert 1 of the small e-clips into the lower groove of the shock shaft. Slide the piston over the shaft until it stops against the e-clip and then secure it in place
with the other e-clip in the end groove.
4 - Put a small dab of the included shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft to lube it and then slide the shock shaft through the bottom end of the shock
carefully so you do not damage the o-ring with the threads on the shock shaft. Pull the shaft all the way through until the piston bottoms out in the shock body.
5 - Wipe off any excess oil from the threads of the shock shaft and then thread on the shorter of the 2 included ballcups. *If you need to hold the shaft with pliers,
be sure to wrap a rag around the shaft first so the pliers do not damage the shaft. If there is any damage to the shaft, the sharp edges will damage the o-ring and
cause the shock to leak.
6 - Now with the shaft still fully extended, hold the shock body upright and fill with the included shock oil. Press the shaft in about half way and then return it to
full extension. Look inside the shock and you will notice small air bubbles in the oil. This is the rest of the air that was trapped below the piston. Allow enough
time for the air bubbles to work their way to the surface and pop.
7 - Once satisfied that all of the air is out of the shock, top off with oil and then insert the shock bladder by laying one side into the oil and then rolling your finger
across the top of the bladder to expel any excess air and/or oil.
8 - Insert the flanged ballcup into the upper shock cap and then tighten this down over the shock bladder, being careful to not knock the bladder off its seat and
allowing air to enter the shock. *Double check that the shock is working smoothly through its range of motion and that you can fully compress the shock. Ifit
binds up before being fully compressed, then it has too much oil and you will need to crack the top cap loose and expel a very small amount of oil and re-tighten.
CRC Encore Shock
9 - Slide the shock spring over the shock body and keep in place by clicking the spring retainer over the shock shaft and sliding it down over the short ballcup to
keep it in place.
Encore Shock Parts List:
3291 - Encore Shock-Body + alum parts
3292 - Encore Shock Shaft - Hardened
3293 - Encore Shock Plastic Parts
3294 - Encore Shock E-clips (10)
3295 - Encore Shock Rubber Parts
3296 - Encore Shaft Adapter, 4-40 ballcup (option)
2.1
2.3
7
(End groove)
3.1
3.2
(Lower groove)
1
9.1
4
8.1
8.2
5
9.2
2.2
6
CRC Pro-Strut
Front End
3246 - Delrin
Pivot Ball
3242 & 1472 -
2-56 Red Locknut
3245 - Hinge Pin
3254 - 2-56 Button Head
3247 - CRC Front Arm set
Bag F
3242 - 2-56 x ½” SH
Lip
3247
1 - Install the upper A-arm mount with the amount of Dynamic Caster desired. The options are 0, 5 and 10
degrees. The part shown to the right in the diagram is the 0 degree version, however it is most common to use
5 or 10 degree blocks for road racing. The 5 and 10 will angle down more toward the front of the car. The
general thought is the more Dynamic Caster, the more steering the car will have at corner entry. We
recommend starting with the 5 degree unit.
4-40 x 3/8”
Flat Head
1 - Pop the delrin pivot ball into the lower arm. Place the arm on a strong table and push the ball in
with the back of screwdriver handle. Or preferably, you can use CRC’s 4279 Ball popper pivot ball
tool. Notice the “lip” of the delrin pivot ball is pointing upward. The diagram to the left represents a
right side lower arm. For the left side, flip the second arm over and be sure the pivot ball is installed
with the lip again facing up.
2 - Once the ball is popped in, insert the black 2-56 clamp screw through the horizontal hole in the
lower arm. Thread the 2-56 red locknut onto the black screw. Tighten the screw slowly continuously
checking the pivot ball. When it begins to bind a bit, back the 2-56 screw off a bit. The ball should
be free to pivot with just a bit of drag. There is no need to have this ball super loose and free, a
slight drag will be just the right amount of clamping force.
Check this fit after a few runs as the ball will wear and require additional clamping force.
1253 - Caster Shim
3243 & 3230 -
Upper Cap
3243
3243 - Upper Arm mnt set-0,5,10
2 - Push the 4-40 x 3/8” screw through the lower arm and then thread the screw into the upper A-arm mount.
Be sure NOT to over tighten. Just snug, you are threading a metal screw into the plastic upper A-arm mount.
*Note - For fine front ride height adjustments, use the CRC #4260 optional front shim set. This set contains
.020 and .030” plastic ride height shims.
1 - Break the mold tree from the upper A-arm. You can clean up the mold
gates with a hobby knife or rotary tool.
3247
2 - Locate the upper arm hinge pin and slide it into one half of the upper
arm. Locate 3 small caster shims. Push the hinge pin through the 3 shims.
Then continue to push the hinge pin all the way into the upper arm.
3 - Now, install the arm/pin/washer assembly onto the upper arm mount. Put
the hinge pin in the channel. At this point you can set your starting caster
setting by moving these washers forward and back. The position shown to
the left will result in a competitive handling. Moving them to the rear will
increase steering from the center and exit of the corner.
If the fit of the upper arm is tight, trim the upper arm mount SLIGHTLY with a
hobby knife.
4 - Install the upper cap with 4 black 2-56 button head screws. The topper is
the “clamp” for the hinge pin. Be sure to tighten so that any gap is gone,
however, do not tighten beyond that point as damage can occur to the upper
a-arm mount holes.
7
1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
1412 - Red Locknut
CRC Pro-Strut
Front End - cont.
3221
1236
1 - Locate the e-clip and snap it into the groove of the King Pin. Slide the Front
End Spring down over the threaded end of the King Pin until it rests against the
e-clip.
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1 - Build up the left and right steering blocks as shown to the left. Start by threading the 1/4” button head screw
through the steering arm of the block and into the red low profile ball.
2 - Then, slide the steel stub axle into the steering block as shown, and secure it in place using the red 4-40
locknut.
3221 - Steering Block Set
1236 - Steel Stub Axle
1382 E-Clip
3392 - .50mm
Front Spring
3250 -
King Pin
3244 - Upper
Pivot Ball
3234 - Brass
Set Screw
2 - Using either the included Allen key, or your own .050” hex wrench, slide the
King Pin/spring/e-clip assembly through the lower arm pivot ball, & then thread it
into the steering block. Thread it in until the front spring just touches the lower
arm pivot ball. You do not want any preload on this spring, but you don’t want
play either. Only run the king pin in until the spring just touches the ball.
3 - Once happy with the king pin/spring preload position, lock the king pin with
the 4-40 brass set screw through the hole in the side of the steering block.
1 - Take the upper pivot ball and push it through the steering block and thread
into the upper arm. Thread it in so there are no threads showing.
2 - Take the slotted capture insert and thread it into the steering block. THIS
IS A BIT TRICKY .... as the insert must be fitted at a down angle as shown to
the left. DO NOT try to insert it horizontally into the steering block. It is
actually threaded in at a down angle toward the center of the car.
3221
3 - Tighten this capture insert so that the steering movement is bound and
slow. Yes, we are actually slightly over tightening this piece FOR NOW. With
the steering movement bound from over tightening, move the steering to it’s
limits, back and forth. What we are doing is “breaking in” the upper
ball/capture insert. After a minute or so of break in, loosen the insert just
enough so the steering is free. Not too much or you will induce excessive free
play.
3392
8
CRC Pro-Strut
Front End - cont.
4260 +
4261 (new)
(optional)
3358
3358 - CK Xti-WC
Front End Plate
1439 - 8-32 x 3/8”
Steel BH
3218 - Thin Ride Height
Spacers -Xti
1428 - 4-40 x
3/8” FH
1231 - Short Ballcups
3376 - Molded Servo Saver Brace
1412 - Red Locknut
13615 -
Red Low-
Profile Ball
3355 - Alum Vertical
Mount Set-Red
1 - Use the large 8-32 screws to mount the front suspension assembly
to the graphite front end plate. Make sure that you have the notched
side of the front end plate to the left side of the car, and the smooth
side to the right. Push the bumps on the bottom of the lower
suspension arm into the holes on the front end plate. Tighten both
screws firmly, but be careful not to strip the threads in the arm.
2 - Insert the 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws through the chassis, and then
through one of the included aluminum ride height spacers, and then
through the Graphite Front End Plate.
The drawing to the left shows the aluminum spacers being used. This
would be to adjust the front ride height of the car for “larger” (+42 mm)
foam tires used in club or sport racing. Thicker or stacked washers can
also be used to allow even larger front tires.
1426 - 4-40 x
5/16” Flat Head
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
1317 - 42mm Turnbuckles
3355
1439
JR 3650, 3717HV,
Spektrum 5030/5040
1231
Aluminum
Spacers (6x).
Only use for
larger tires.
The Xti-WC is designed for all out performance on high bite tracks.
Typically, the front tire size used in these conditions range from 39
mm. When using tires in this range,
and adjust ride height only with the optional 4260/1 plastic shims
between the lower arms and front end plate.
The 4-40 x 3/8” screws will slide through 2 of the holes of the front end
plate and thread into the others. This is to “lock-in” the front end plate
and keep it from shifting around on the chassis in the event of a crash.
do not use
the aluminum spacers
1.1”
3376
Airtronics/Sanwa
94761 or SRGHR
-42
1317
This screw included
with your servo,
not the Xti kit.
Servo Spline
Remove this side! Trimming completed
9
Differential Axle
4720 - Axle Spacer-
Xti-2 + 5mm
1386 - 1/4” x 3/8”
Flanged Bearing
4732 - 1/4” Shim
1460 - 4-40 x 5/16”
Red Socket Cap
1528 - Large D-ring
Axle - 4mm stud
Bag 8
Differential
Bag 9
4201 - Diff Ring
1528
1387 - 1/4” x 3/8”
Plain Bearing
2mm
4121 - Diff Spacer
Lip
4123 -
Spring Washer
4126 -
Nylon Diff Nut
3333 - Left Clamp Hub
5mm
3333
4227 - Diff Hub
1228 - 3/32 Diff Balls
** Balls in outer ring of holes in gear **
64172
64180
64188
64196
1
1-INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS
Place the spur gear flat on the table in front of you with the side that says “CRC”
facing down. The diff balls will fall into each of the outer ring of holes in the diff
gear, but won’t fall out the other side. Place a small dab of silicone diff grease on
each ball to lube the ball and prevent the balls from falling back out of the holes
during assembly. Use very little!
2-DIFF ASSEMBLY
*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear axle pointing upright will ease assembly
of the diff.) Place 1 diff ring, and then a 1/4” x 3/8” plain bearing over the end of
the axle. Align the diff ring so that it notches into the axle flange. Place the
assembled gear with the greased diff balls over the axle and push it down over the
plain bearing. Next, insert the other plain bearing into the back of the diff hub.
1528
Then, align the second diff ring with the notch on the back of the diff hub. *(place a
small dab of the diff grease on the hub first to hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide
the hub, bearing, & diff ring down over the axle. Next, slide a flanged bearing over
the axle and into the front of the diff hub.
DIFF ASSEMBLY - CONTINUED...
The diff spacer has a small machined lip on one
side, point that lip toward the bearing. Now,
place the spring washer so that the cone points
away from the gear. The outside of the washer
should be against the diff spacer, and the inside
of the washer should be against the diff nut,
which now goes on last. *Be sure the 2 “D” rings
have settled into their notches. Just snug the nut
so the parts stay together on the diff axle.
DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing
gets crushed! Correct diff tension needs to be
set with tires on the car.
1228
3 - Setting the Diff
Once the tires are on: Adjust the diff nut so that the tires spin back and forth freely when holding the
spur gear, but it is very difficult to slip the spur gear with your thumb when holding both tires. Again DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing gets crushed! Re-check diff tension after the first run.
4227
Small lip
toward bearing
10
Bag 10
3378
13783 - 4-40 x 1/8”
Set Screw
1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
1428 - 4-40 x
3/8” FH
3378 - Short (1 in.) Body
Post Set w/ collars
1378 - Body Post Set
w/ collars (2 in.)
1378
4731 -
Bag 11
1 - Use the 4-40 x 5/16” red cap head screws to bolt the rear
wheels to the hubs.
2 - Insert the flanged bearings into the front wheels. Slide the
front wheel onto the axle, & secure with a red locknut. The
front wheels should spin very free. Do not over-tighten the
front wheel nuts so that the bearings are pinched.
(Tires not included)
1/8” Shim
1248 - 1/8” x 5/16”
Flanged Bearing
1412 - Red Locknut
1460 - 4-40 x 5/16”
Red Socket Cap
1208
1207 - M3 x 8mm
Motor Screw
1208 - Motor Screw
Washer
1207
Thank you for choosing Calandra Racing Concepts and the Xti-WC race car. If you have any questions or concerns about any CRC product, feel free to call or
e-mail the staff at CRC for assistance. All of our in-house staff at CRC are experts in building, setup, driving and racing R/C model cars. Your new Xti-WC was
handled by experienced racers from the moment of design right through the completion of the kit. We utilize our top driving professionals around the world as
well as feedback from local racers at the CRC test track to build you the most complete and competitive product possible. Our team travels to major events
around the world, please stop in at a race if you need any help or just to say “Hi!”. Have fun, practice often and good luck!
11
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