Craftsman CTS205 User Manual

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CertainTeed

Installation Guide

Vinyl and Polymer Siding

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding

Scan for our latest Vinyl and Polymer Siding Installation video.

CertainTeed provides quality vinyl siding and accessories that are backed by one of the industry’s best warranties. However, even the best products fall short of expectations if they are not installed properly. Following these ten recommendations—the basics of a professional installation—can help ensure a quality installation that fullls homeowners’ expectations and reduces call backs.

1. Install all siding and accessories over a smooth, at surface. Always install siding over a rigid sheathing, and never install it over open studs.

2. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant barrier, like CertainTeed CertaWrap and ash around all windows and doors before installing vinyl siding and trim.

3. There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding: For rip cuts, score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the panel back and forth. Use aviator snips or shears to t panels around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with a plywood blade in the reverse position.

4. Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving channels like outside cornerposts, inside cornerposts, and J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8".

5. When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the temperature).

6. Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for siding; 8" to 12" for accessories.

7. DO NOT NAIL TIGHT! Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel expands and contracts.

8. Hang vertical accessories from the top of the top nail slot. If the accessory is longer than 12', hang it from the top two nail slots.

9. Lap away from the highest trafc pattern, typically the front of the house. Keep laps at least 3' apart from course to course, and install three courses between laps above each other.

10. Finish the last piece of siding into utility trim or dual utility trim.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Become a CertainTeed

Master Craftsman

The CertainTeed Master Craftsman program is your opportunity to earn valuable rewards while maintaining a leg up on your competition. These rewards are not available to everyone, just to those who have successfully passed the Master Craftsman Education and Development test.

As a Master Craftsman, you are entitled to:

• Receive a personalized Certiﬁcate of Completion that you can use to promote your professional services.

• Be listed as a Master Craftsman on our contractor locator website, where potential customers can ﬁnd you. The listing will include your name, company name, phone number, e-mail address, and a link to your website if you have one.

• Have access to the Master Craftsman website, which includes Building Solutions® program information, industry news and information, and product and installation updates.

For more information about the CertainTeed Master Craftsman program, call

800-233-8990

or log on to

www.certainteed.com/

mastercraftsman

Important Information

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Warranties

These instructions describe and illustrate the steps involved in installing CertainTeed siding, trim, and accessories. Their purpose is to provide detailed information and how-to tips that will simplify the installation process. CertainTeed shall not accept any liability or responsibility under its written warranty for failure caused by application that does not meet the requirements for proper installation. These requirements are outlined throughout this book. Any deviations from these requirements should be addressed and approved in writing by CertainTeed Corporation.

In rare instances, intense sunlight reﬂected from glass on vinyl siding may create heat buildup and cause the siding to distort. To help minimize the effects of heat buildup from reﬂected sun, the homeowner may take one or more of the following measures:

• Install a screen in the window causing the problem.

• Install an awning over the window to break the line of light reﬂection.

• Use shrubbery to protect the area of siding from reﬂections.

For more information on the potential damaging effects of concentrated solar reﬂection, visit the VSI website at http://www.vinylsiding.org/aboutsiding/cleanmain/ solarandheat/index.asp

Building codes and regulations vary throughout the country. Be sure to check with your local code ofﬁcial or governing body for the building requirements in your area.

New OSHA Fall Protection Compliance Directives

STD 03-11-002 Compliance Guidance for Residential Construction was issued on Dec. 6, 2010 and went into effect June 16, 2011. For more information visit www.OSHA.gov or consult your local State OSHA plan.

Lead Renovations

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains high levels of lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

You can ﬁnd out about safety measures for lead-based paint by calling 1-800-424-LEAD. Ask for the brochure “Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home.” That brochure explains what to do before, during, and after renovations.

Important Fire Safety Information

Exterior vinyl building materials require little maintenance for many years. Nevertheless, common sense dictates that builders and suppliers of vinyl products store, handle and install vinyl materials in a manner that avoids damage to the product and/or the structure. Owners and installers should take a few simple steps to protect vinyl building materials from ﬁre:

• To Home and Building Owners: Rigid vinyl siding is made from organic materials and will melt or burn when exposed to a signiﬁcant source of ﬂame or heat. Building owners, occupants and outside maintenance personnel should always take normal precautions to keep sources of ﬁre, such as barbecues, and combustible materials, such as dry leaves, mulch and trash, away from vinyl siding.

• To the Building Trades, Speciﬁers, Professionals and Do-It-Yourself Installers: When rigid vinyl siding is exposed to signiﬁcant heat or ﬂame, the vinyl will soften, sag, melt or burn, and may thereby expose material underneath. Care must be exercised when selecting underlayment materials because many underlayment materials are made from organic materials that are combustible. You should ascertain the ﬁre properties of underlayment materials prior to installation. All building materials should be installed in accordance with local, state and federal building codes and ﬁre regulations.

This manual shows the basic guidelines for installation. It is based on ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) D4756, the standard practice for installation of vinyl siding and sofﬁt. Additionally, we recommend that local building codes be reviewed.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding ......................... 1

Become a CertainTeed Master Craftsman ................... 2

Important Information .................................................3

SECTION 1 — Introduction ..................................... 6

SECTION 2 — Siding Overview

Home Exterior Terms ..................................................7

Features of Polymer Shake Siding ..............................8

Polymer Shake and Shingle Siding Styles ...................9

Traditional Vinyl Siding Terms .................................... 10

Vinyl Siding Styles ..................................................... 11

Insulated Siding Styles .............................................. 12

SECTION 3 — Vinyl Soffit and Ventilation

Features of Vinyl Soffit ..............................................13

SECTION 4 — Accessories and Tools

Corner Systems ........................................................14

Lineals ...................................................................... 16

Decorative Trim ......................................................... 16

J-Channels ............................................................... 17

Functional Trim .........................................................18

Starter Strips ............................................................18

Soffit Trim .................................................................20

Equipment and Tools ................................................21

Transporting and Storing

Vinyl Siding and Polymer Shakes ........................... 22

Special Tools ............................................................23

SECTION 5 — Estimating

Siding ....................................................................... 24

Measuring ................................................................26

Estimating Form .......................................................27

Nail Spacing and Product

Expansion and Contraction ...................................35

Installing Accessories ...............................................37

Outside Cornerposts ................................................38

Extra Wide Cornerposts ...........................................40

Inside Cornerposts ...................................................41

Federal Corners ........................................................ 42

Inside Federal Corners .............................................. 42

Bay Window Corners ................................................43

Decorative Trim Options around

Windows and Doors ............................................. 44

Window Flashing ......................................................45

Window and Door Trim ............................................. 46

Snap-on Lineals .......................................................47

Lineal Starter Application for Windows

and Door Surrounds .............................................49

Lineal Application around Windows ..........................50

Lineals over Horizontal Siding ...................................53

Capping a Lineal Used as a Rake .............................53

Corner Blocks ..........................................................54

5" Square Header with Endcaps over

3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms ........................55

Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals ..............................56

Slip Joints for Lineal Corners ....................................57

Crown Molding Treatment Options ...........................58

Crown Molding and Cap for 3/4"

Pocket J-Channel ................................................. 59

Crown Molding with 3-1/2" Lineal Surround ..............59

Crown Molding with Cap for 5" Header Lineal ...........60

Band Board ..............................................................62

Blind Miter ................................................................64

Lineal Frieze Board ...................................................64

Finishing with Cornice Molding and Receiver ............65

SECTION 6 — Preparing for Horizontal Siding

Preparing Wall Surfaces ............................................28

CertaWrap™ Weather-Resistant Barrier .....................29

Nailing, Stapling and Other Fastening Methods.........33

Installing J-Channel as Gable End Trim ..................... 66

Using Lineals as Gable Trim ...................................... 67

Restoration Millwork Trim .......................................... 68

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

SECTION 7 — Installing Horizontal Siding

Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding ....................... 70

Cutting Panels .......................................................... 71

Overlapping Panels ................................................... 71

STUDfinder™ Installation System for 12' Panels ........72

STUDfinder™ Installation System

for Oversized Panels ............................................. 73

Preparing Wall Surfaces ............................................74

Completion ............................................................... 78

Shutter Installation .................................................... 79

SECTION 8 — Installing Vertical Siding (including Board & Batten)

Preparing Wall Surfaces ............................................80

Cornerposts .............................................................81

Top and Bottom J-Channel .......................................81

J-Channel at Gable Ends .......................................... 82

Wall Panels ...............................................................83

Cedar Impressions Inside Cornerpost ..................... 108

Cedar Impressions Bay Window Cornerposts .........109

Half-Round Shingles ............................................... 110

Half-Round Shingles in Gable Ends ........................113

Cedar Impressions on a Steep Rake .......................116

Cedar Impressions on Non-vertical Walls ................116

Starting Cedar Impressions with Lineals

over Horizontal Siding ......................................... 117

Starting Cedar Impressions

over Horizontal Siding ......................................... 118

Application of Half-Round Shingle under Soffit ........119

Special Effects with Cedar Impressions ..................120

Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions

Panel with the Repair Kit ..................................... 121

Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions Panel ....124

Northwoods S7" and S9" Shakes .......................... 125

CedarBoards Insulated Siding ................................127

Band Board ............................................................133

Gable End Panels ..................................................... 84

SECTION 9 — Porch Ceilings, Soffit, Fascia

Requirements for Proper Soffit Ventilation .................85

Porch Ceilings ..........................................................86

Soffit .........................................................................88

Triple 3-1/3 Solid and InvisiVent Soffit

and Perimeter Soffit .............................................. 91

Vinyl Fascia...............................................................92

SECTION 10 — Installing Specific CertainTeed Products

Cedar Impressions Shingles and Shakes ..................94

D7 Straight Edge Perfection Shingles .......................95

T5 Straight Edge Perfection Shingles ....................... 97

D9 Staggered Rough-Split Shakes ........................100

D7 Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes ....................102

D7 Staggered Perfection Shingles ..........................104

Cornice Cap with Cedar Impressions

Mitered Cornerpost ............................................106

SECTION 11 — Special Situations

Trimming Curved Openings ....................................135

Frieze Board ...........................................................136

Decorative Sunbursts .............................................136

SECTION 12 — Repair

Replacing a Damaged Siding Panel ........................ 139

Replacing a Damaged Outside Cornerpost ............. 139

Repairing Buckled Siding at the Joist ...................... 140

SECTION 13 — Miscellaneous

Cleaning Vinyl Siding ..............................................141

Siding Over Asbestos .............................................142

Historic Restoration ................................................142

Lead Renovations ................................................... 143

For More Information ..............................................143

Index ......................................................................144

Glossary .................................................................146

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Section 1 — Introduction

Introduction

Plan your work, then work your plan.

That’s the key to success with any project, and it’s doubly true when it comes to installing vinyl siding, sofﬁt, trim and accessories.

If you use the right materials and the right tools in the right order, you’ll complete remodeling and new home installations in less time, with less effort, and with far greater satisfaction.

Since you’re using CertainTeed products, you’ve already taken the ﬁrst step toward success. CertainTeed sidings, sofﬁt, trim and accessories provide premium quality, rugged durability and outstanding appearance. Quite simply, they’re made to look great—on the day they’re installed and for years after.

The second ingredient of success —using the proper tools, techniques and procedures—is covered in this book. As you’ll see by scanning the table of contents, this book guides you through every step of the installation process, from estimating materials to attaching mailboxes and shutters. Every major installation project is covered: horizontal; vertical, including Board & Batten; sofﬁt and fascia; porch ceilings; and decorative trim. Where various approaches to a particular installation procedure are possible, the book presents practical alternatives. To make the instructions as detailed and complete as possible, hundreds of illustrations accompany the text.

As you’re reading—and while you’re working—keep in mind the most important rule of thumb for successful vinyl siding installation: allow for movement. All vinyl siding, sofﬁt and accessories used in exterior applications must be able to move freely as they expand and contract with temperature changes. You’ll see this point emphasized again and again throughout this book; you’ll also learn various techniques for measuring, ﬁtting and nailing that will allow this unobstructed movement. These are perhaps the most important lessons in this booklet.

NOTE: No instruction book can anticipate all the questions that might arise during a siding or sofﬁt installation. Recognizing this, we’ve focused on the tools and techniques used to complete typical installations. Where appropriate, we’ve also included alternative approaches for speciﬁc installation steps. If you encounter a unique installation problem not covered in this book, we suggest you contact your building materials distributor or call our Sales Support Group at 1-800-233-8990.

SECTION 2 — Siding Overview

Home Exterior Terms

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Vertical Siding

Rake

Gable

Dormer

Soffit

Fascia

Siding

Outside cornerpost

Inside cornerpost

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Features of Polymer Shake Siding

QuickReferenceTM Nail Mark Indicators

• Industry exclusive easy-to-use nailing guide

• No measuring needed for correct panel nailing

Extra Long Top Locking Tabs

• Create an easier locking panel

0 30 65 100 130 160

100°F 130°F

QuickReferenceTM Panel Cut Indicators

• Improves speed and ease of installation

Patented PanelThermometer

• Displays panel temperature!

• Easy-to-use temperature gauge

• The brightest cell indicates panel temperature

• Increases installation accuracy, decreases call backs

0°F 30°F 65°F

100°F 130°F

0°F 30°F 65°F

Oversized Perimeter Side Locking Tabs

• Helps create seamless appearance

• Allow for fast and easy panel engagement

• Offer greater tab strength and less breakage

• Extended lead-in allows for ease of installaton

Straight-Up Installation

• Notched side laps allow you to push in and straight-up to lock the panel securely — just like traditional vinyl siding!

Deep Panel Projection

• Created distictive shadow lines and shingle deﬁnition

• Perfection and Half-Round Shingles: 3/4" projection

• Rough-Split Shakes: 1" projection

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Polymer Shake and Shingle Siding Styles

Triple 5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

Double 7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes

Double 7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

Double 9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes

Double 7" Staggered Perfection Shingles

Double 6-1/4" Half-Round Shingles

Exclusive Positive Lock

• Self-supporting, friction lock

• No need to hold panel while nailing

• Lead-in guide ensures engagement

• Allows for band board shrinkage

Center Pin Hole

Allows for even expansion and contraction of the panel.

Reinforced Ribs on Nail Slots and Lock Tabs

• Provide improved lock strength and holding power

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

7/16"

Traditional Vinyl Siding Terms

Proﬁle

The contour or outline of a siding panel as viewed from the side.

Nail ﬂange

Flat area along top of panel with slots for nailing; slots allow for expansion and contraction.

Lock

Molded area just under nailing ﬂange into which butt leg/locking leg of next panel above is secured.

Exposure

The width of the exposed face of each panel of siding; also referred to as reveal.

Texture

Visual and tactile characteristics of the siding panel; designed to recreate the authentic look of natural wood grain, stucco, smooth painted clapboard, etc.

Panel Thickness

An important element of siding quality. Thicker panels are more durable, stand up to impacts and high winds, and look straighter on the wall.

Butt leg/locking leg

The bottom part of a siding proﬁle that connects or locks into the panel below.

Panel projection

Common to products with multiple faces (i.e. Double 4 or Triple 3). It is the dimension required for the proper selection of receiving channels (e.g., J-channels and corner pieces).

3/4"

Vinyl Siding Styles

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Single 8" Clapboard

Double 4" Dutchlap

Double 4" Clapboard

Double 4-1/2" Clapboard

Double 4-1/2" Dutchlap

Double 5" Dutchlap

Double 5" Clapboard

Triple 3" Clapboard

Single 6-1/2" Beaded

Single 8" Vertical Board & Batten

Single 7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes

Single 9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Insulated Siding Styles

Single 7" Clapboard

Double 4.5" Dutchlap

Double 4" Clapboard

Double 6" Clapboard

Single 12" Vertical Board and Batten

SECTION 3 — Vinyl Sofﬁt and Ventilation

Features of Vinyl Sofﬁt

Proﬁle

The contour or outline of a sofﬁt panel as viewed from the side.

Texture

Visual and tactile characteristics of the sofﬁt panel; designed to recreate the authentic look of natural wood grain, stucco, smooth, etc.

Nailing Flange

Flat area along top of panel with slots for nailing; slots allow for expansion and contraction.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Butt Leg / Locking Leg

Molded area at bottom of panel that is snapped into lock on adjacent panel for secure connection.

Solid Sofﬁt

Panel Thickness

An important element of sofﬁt quality. Thicker panels are more durable and are less prone to sagging.

Exposure

The width of the exposed face of each panel of sofﬁt; also referred to as reveal.

Lock

Molded area just under nailing ﬂange into which butt leg/locking leg of adjacent panel is secured.

Panel Projection

Common to products with multiple faces (i.e. Triple 3). It is the dimension required for the proper selection of receiving channels (e.g., J-channels and corner pieces).

Center Vented Sofﬁt

Fully Vented Sofﬁt

Invisibly Vented Sofﬁt

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

SECTION 4 — Accessories and Tools

Corner Systems

Outside cornerposts

3/4" Outside cornerpost—woodgrain and matte. Use with all sidings except Cedar Impressions D9 Rough-Split

Shakes, Northwoods S9 Rough-Split Shakes and CedarBoards.

1" Outside cornerpost—woodgrain. Use with Cedar Impressions D9 Rough-Split Shakes and

Northwoods Shakes.

1-1/4" Outside cornerpost with foam insert—woodgrain. Use with Cedar Impressions Rough-Split Shakes,

Northwoods Shakes and CedarBoards.

Inside cornerposts

3/4" Inside cornerpost—matte. Use where siding meets at inside corners; provides a ﬁnished look.

1-1/4" Inside cornerpost—matte. Use with Cedar Impressions Rough-Split Shakes,

Northwoods Shakes and CedarBoards.

Fluted SuperCorner—matte

3/4" Fluted corner design with foam backing.

Traditional SuperCorner™—matte

3/4" and 1-1/4" Wide decorative traditional corner treatment with foam backing. The 1-1/4" is used with Cedar Impressions RoughSplit Shakes, Northwoods Shakes, and CedarBoards.

Beaded SuperCorner™—matte

Wide decorative beaded corner treatment with foam backing.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Corner Systems (continued)

Mitered cornerposts

Outside and inside corner treatment for use with Cedar Impressions.

Bay window cornerpost—matte

Adapts to odd angles of bay windows.

7" 7"

47.5°

Quarter round insert—matte

Installed with a Corner Starter and lineals as a decorative corner treatment.

5" Corner cap—matte

Used to create corner systems.

Cedar Impressions S7" bay window inside and outside cornerposts

Use with Cedar Impressions D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles only to adapt to the odd angles of a bay window.

42.5°

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Lineals

3-1/2" Snap-on lineal

Use with J-channel.

3-1/2" Lineal 5" Lineal 3-1/2" Lineal with foam insert

For use with a New Construction Window and Door Starter around windows and doors as a casing. Two lineals can be used to create a corner system when installed with a corner starter and corner insert. The 3/4" channel receives siding panels. Lineals with foam inserts are available for use with insulated siding.

3-1/2" Double channel lineal 5" Double channel lineal

For use with horizontal or vertical siding transitions. Exposure matches 3-1/2" window and door surround lineals.

Decorative Trim

Corner block

Used with 3-1/2" lineals to ﬁnish corners around windows and doors.

Rosette

Attaches to Corner Block as a decorative treatment.

Crown molding

Used in conjunction with 5" lineals to create a custom molded window or door header. Can also be used with 3-1/2" lineals and 3/4" pocket J-channels. Crown has a 2-1/4" top exposed edge.

Crown molding cap

Caps the ends of a crown molding with minimal cutting.

NOTE: Shown already cut in half—one piece makes a left and right-end cap.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Decorative Trim (continued)

Cornice molding Finish board

Held in place by the F-channel or Cornice Molding Receiver, this accessory hides the installation of the topmost siding panels. With the help of a nail slot punch, topmost siding panels can be installed with nails every time. Can also be used under windows.

Cornice molding receiver

Installed under eaves to hold the Cornice Molding or Finish Board in place. Does not receive sofﬁt panels.

Cornice molding cornerpost cap

Used to cap Cornice Molding over Mitered Cornerposts.

Band board

7-1/4" foam backed, decorative trim used with Cedar Impressions Rough-Split Shakes, Northwoods Rough Split Shake, and CedarBoards.

2-1/2" Window and door casing

A 2-1/2" wide-face J-channel that accentuates windows and doors. Designed to accommodate new construction window ﬂanges and ﬁt snugly against window and door frames. This accessory is also ideal for gable trim applications.

J-Channels

J-Channel

3/8" J-channel 1/2" J-channel 3/4" J-channel 1" J-channel 1-1/4" J-channel

Universal siding and sofﬁt receiving channel for use around utility openings, under eaves, etc.

3/4" Flexible J-Channel

Specialized 3/4" siding receiving trim; particularly useful around curved windows and ventilation treatments.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Functional Trim

Aluminum trim coil

24"-wide PVC-coated aluminum.

Dual undersill trim

Secures trimmed siding panels under windows and eaves regardless of the proﬁle or where in the panel face the panel has been trimmed.

Undersill trim Cedar Impressions undersill trim

Helps secure trimmed siding panels under windows and eaves.

Drip cap

Acts as a ﬂash over windows and doors.

Vinyl fascia

Installed with F-channel and undersill trim to provide a virtually maintenance-free fascia board.

Starter Strips

2-1/4" Vinyl starter strip

Secures the ﬁrst course of siding to the home. For use with all sidings except Monogram® 46, Monogram® 46L, Monogram® 46XL, CedarBoards, CedarBoards XL, and Cedar Impressions®.

2-1/2" Metal starter strip

For use with all sidings except CedarBoards and Cedar Impressions.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Starter Strips (continued)

5" Metal starter strip

Designed to be used on remodeling jobs to help level the ﬁrst course and span areas that cannot be nailed. For use with all sidings except CedarBoards and Cedar Impressions.

4" Metal shingle starter strip

4" metal starter to be used with Cedar Impressions.

Starter strip for Insulated Siding

Vinyl starter strip that accommodates 1-1/4" thickness of insulated siding.

New construction window and door starter

Butts up against protruding window and door jambs and overhangs for installation of 3-1/2" and 5" lineals.

Remodeling window and door starter

Holds 3-1/2" and 5" lineals in place around window and door openings. Used in re-siding applications where existing casings have not been removed.

Corner starter strip

Secures 3-1/2" and 5" lineals and quarter round insert to create a 4-piece corner.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Sofﬁt Trim

Sofﬁt cove trim

A decorative sofﬁt receiver featuring a 9/16" receiving pocket. This proﬁle can also be used as an inside cornerpost. Will not work for all proﬁles.

5/8" and 3/4" F-Channel

Receives sofﬁt panels.

Deluxe F-Channel

Receives sofﬁt panels and cornice molding or ﬁnish board.

3/8" H-Bar 1/2" H-Bar 3/4" H-Bar

Joins sofﬁt panels. Particularly useful on porch ceilings and hip roof applications.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Equipment and Tools

Fasteners

Use only corrosion-resistant nails (aluminum, stainless or galvanized rooﬁng.) Nails should have a minimum head diameter of 5/16". CertainTeed recommends the use of stainless steel nails or other corrosion-resistant fasteners, when installing siding in coastal areas. Be sure to check with your local code ofﬁcial or governing body for the building requirements in your area. Staples should be a minimum of 16 gauge.

If screws are used, use non-corrosive, self-tapping, pan head or washer head screws or oval head with countersunk washer screws with at least 5/16" diameter head, 1/8" (3mm) diameter shaft, and at least 1-1/8" (29mm) long.

To determine the length of nail required, measure the thickness of the sheathing material. Then add at least 3/4" to allow the nail to penetrate the solid wood substrate (studs or existing wood siding). For more secure fastening, add 1" to sheathing thickness. The minimum nail size should be 1-1/2".

Example: If you’re applying siding over 1/2" sheathing, use a nail at least 1-1/2" long (1/2" sheathing + 3/4" stud penetration + nailing hem thickness + minimum 1/16" between nailing hem and fastener head).

To determine the quantity of nails required, complete the following:

Total square feet of siding required:

(If using aluminum nails) x .005 (If using galvanized rooﬁng nails) x .01

Pounds of nails required: =

For nailing instructions, see page 33 to 34.

Tools required

Hammer Tin snips Tape measure Square Chalk line Level Utility knife Shears

Power circular saw with sharp, ﬁne-tooth plywood blade mounted in reverse direction. (Irwin® Tools Vinyl siding blade is not reversed—tooth design is symmetric 60º.)

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Ladders and Scaffolds

NOTE: If you will be using an extension ladder during installation, be sure to cushion the upper side rails to help prevent damage to installed siding.

Cutting table

Portable brake

Essential for bending aluminum trim coil to ﬁt around fascia boards, window sills, window and door casings, etc.

Please refer to the brake manufacturer’s instructions for metal bending techniques.

Transporting and Storing Vinyl Siding and Polymer Shakes

CertainTeed’s standard shipment method incorporates palletizing and stretch wrapping all products.

• The pallet is a double-faced, reversible, Grade M, SPEQ®certiﬁed pallet constructed of quality materials that meet NWPCA Uniform Voluntary Standards (Sec. 5.1, Table 1).

• Customer racking should be at least 46" deep x 157" long to accommodate CertainTeed pallets.

• Do not store pallets by more than three units high.

• Vinyl and polymer siding should be stored indoors and away from direct sources of heat and sunlight. Storing products outside may result in damage.

• Cedar Impressions polymer shakes must be stored vertically.

If you are transporting vinyl siding to a job site, make certain to keep cartons ﬂat and supported along their entire length.

At the job site, take the following precautions when storing panels:

• Store on a ﬂat surface and support the entire length of the carton.

• Keep cartons dry.

• Store away from areas where falling objects or other construction activity may cause damage.

• Do not store in any location where temperatures may exceed 130° F (e.g., on black top pavement during unusually hot weather, under dark tarps or plastic wraps without air circulation, or in unventilated storage trailers).

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Cut off and

discard

Cut off and

discard

Special Tools

Nail slot punch (CertainTeed Item # 57997)

Punches elongated holes to allow nailing the cut edge of a panel. Also used to enlarge an existing hole to allow proper nailing.

Snaplock punch (CertainTeed Item # 57995 or 57996)

Punches tabs in the cut edge of a panel used as a ﬁnishing course at the top of a wall or underneath a window. The tabs lock into undersill trim. For best results, we recommend using item 57995 Snaplock Punch, which is designed speciﬁcally for vinyl applications.

Trim nail punch

Punches trim nail holes into sofﬁt, fascia, and other ﬁnishing trim without denting or marring the material. Available from Malco Products, Granger, ProSidingTools.com

Zip tool (CertainTeed Item # 57998 or 57999)

Locks and unlocks panels.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Section 5 — Estimating

Siding

Use the illustrations and formulas below and enter totals on the estimating form on page 27. These formulas apply for both horizontal and vertical installations.

NOTE: When estimating for a large project, you may want to add a waste allowance of 10 percent to the totals for siding, sofﬁt and accessories.

Rectangular wall surfaces

Measure height (excluding gables). Measure width

(including doors and windows).

_____________ x _____________ = _____________

(height) (width) (surface area)

Repeat for remaining walls.

Triangular gable end surfaces

Measure height at center (add 1' to allow for waste).

Measure width and divide by half.

_____________ x _____________ = _____________

(height) (1/2 width) (surface area)

Repeat for remaining gables.

NOTE: Lower pitch roofs will produce more waste than higher pitch roofs.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Upper wall of gambrel house

Divide the upper wall of a gambrel house as shown in the illustration. Then use the following formulas:

1/2 (B + C) x H = ____________

1/2 C x D = ____________

Add these ﬁgures to get total area: ____________

Repeat for remaining gambrel surfaces.

Dormer sides

Measure height of dormer (add 1' to allow for waste). Use the following formula:

_____________ x _____________ = ____________________

(1/2 height) (1/2 width) (surface area, 1 side)

____________________ x 2 = _________________________

(surface area, 1 side) (total dormer surface area)

Repeat for all dormers.

Sofﬁt

Measure width of eave to be covered. Measure length of eave.

_____________ x _____________ = _____________

(width) (length) (surface area)

Repeat for remaining eaves.

Porch Ceiling

Measure length of porch area to be covered. Measure width of porch.

_____________ x _____________ = _____________

(length) (width) (surface area)

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Measuring

Before ordering accessories, you also have to determine the width of the J-channel into which you will ﬁt the vinyl siding. To do this, you must ﬁrst determine which of two methods you will use to apply sheathings or underlayments. This is covered in more detail under “Sheathings.”

NOTE: Refer to product catalog for product accessory recommendations and availability.

Starter strip: Measure along base of building.

J-channel: For siding installations, measure around doors

and windows, under eaves, at rake edges of gables where dormer meets rooﬂine, and anywhere else required to provide a ﬁnished appearance.

For sofﬁt, measure along wall under eave and along fascia board.

For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter of the porch area.

F-channel: For sofﬁt, measure along wall under eve.

For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter of the porch area.

3-1/2" and 5" Lineals: For casing, measure along perimeter of doors and windows. For gables, measure at rake edges of gables where dormer meets roof line.

Undersill trim: Measure above and below windows and above doors and top course of siding below sofﬁt.

Soffit H-bar: Measure diagonals at all eave corners.

Outside cornerpost: Measure length of outside corners.

Inside cornerpost: Measure length of inside corners.

NOTE: If you plan to use J-channel instead of inside cornerposts, remember to double this measurement and add the total to your entry for J-channel.

Dual undersill trim: Measure along top of wall where siding will meet eaves.

Estimating Form

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Siding

Sofﬁt

Porch ceiling

Accessories

Receiving channel

Walls sq feet Gable ends sq feet Dormer sides sq feet Upper gambrel walls sq feet Total wall surface area sq feet (A) Large areas not to be covered:

(garage doors/sliding glass doors) sq feet x .50

Uncovered area sq feet (B) Subtract B from A for

Total net surface area sq feet

sq feet sq feet Starter strip lineal feet Window & door lineal starter lineal feet Four piece corner starter lineal feet Utility trim lineal feet

J-channel lineal feet 2-1/2" window & door casing lineal feet Flexible J-channel lineal feet F-channel: 5/8" or 3/4" lineal feet Deluxe F-channel lineal feet 3-1/2" or 5" lineals lineal feet New construction window starter lineal feet Dual undersill trim lineal feet

Outside corner

Inside corners

Nails

Outside cornerpost lineal feet Fluted SuperCorner lineal feet Traditional SuperCorner lineal feet Beaded SuperCorner lineal feet Cedar Impressions/

CedarBoards cornerpost lineal feet Four piece corner system lineal feet

Inside cornerpost lineal feet J-channel lineal feet

Sofﬁt cove trim lineal feet H-Bar lineal feet Corner Blocks pairs Rosettes pairs Cornice molding receiver lineal feet Cornice molding lineal feet

Width of accessory recess opening: (circle one) 1/2" 3/4" 1-1/4"

Pounds required (1-1/2" minimum)

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

SECTION 6 — Preparing for Horizontal Siding

Preparing Wall Surfaces

Sheathings

In new construction, apply sheathing ﬁrst, then nail accessories over it.

The application method you choose determines the width of the recess opening required. For example, use:

• 1/2" opening when applying accessories over sheathing and installing siding with a panel projection of 1/2" or less.

• 3/4" opening when applying accessories over sheathing and installing siding with a panel projection of 3/4" or less.

• 1-1/4" opening when applying accessories ﬁrst and using sheathing that’s less than 3/4" thick for sidings with a panel projection of 1/2" or less. For sidings with a panel projection of 5/8" or 3/4", use a sheathing that is 1/2" thick or less.

New construction

Make sure all studs are straight and true. Correct any bowed studs.

NOTE: Vinyl siding must be applied over a rigid sheathing that provides a smooth, ﬂat surface or an underlayment (such as wood, wood composition, rigid foam or ﬁber sheathing) that is no more than 1" thick. Vinyl siding cannot be applied directly to studs. See the instructions on page 29 for installation over continuous insulation systems thicker than 1".

If you’re planning to use a conventional house wrap or building felt, apply according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. In all cases, however, install the products so they are secured ﬁrmly to the substrate so that they provide a smooth, even surface for the ﬁnal siding installation. Make sure sheathing is fastened securely to studs.

Vinyl siding is an exterior cladding; it is not a complete weather resistant barrier. Before applying siding, make certain the substrate is watertight. In order to be protected from precipitation, the substrate may need to be properly ﬂashed around areas such as windows, doors, other openings and corners so as to shed water to the exterior. See page 45 for proper ﬂashing around windows. The siding alone is not meant to be a watertight barrier.

Vinyl siding cannot be installed on a radius wall.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Continuous foam insulation systems (SIPs)

Continuous foam insulation systems (e.g. rigid insulation, structural insulation products) thicker than 1" create a condition where CertainTeed vinyl siding and polymer shakes cannot be properly attached to the existing framing members, steel studs, or structural sheathing.

The easiest way to meet the fastening requirements for CertainTeed siding is to install 3/4" structural sheathing (such as OSB or plywood) over the continuous foam insulation. However, the wall assembly must be designed in such a way that the structural fastening surface that is re-established on the exterior of the insulating products is sufﬁcient to meet the requirements of ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes.

CertainTeed does not provide instructions for wall design or assembly that speciﬁcally relates to the fastening requirements for re-establishing a structural fastening surface for CertainTeed vinyl and polymer siding. However, FastenMaster® provides two documents to assist in successfully re-establishing a structural fastening system on the exterior of a continuous foam insulation system:

32"

• Technical Evaluation Report (TER No. 1009-01): Use of FastenMaster HeadLok™ Fasteners to Attach Cladding and/or Furring to Wood Framing through Foam Sheathing

• Technical Bulletin: Attaching Exterior Wall Covering Assemblies with Foam Sheathing to Steel Wall Framing

The Fasten Master reports must be used in combination with ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes to determine attachment requirements. In addition, all the installation methods included in this manual must be met.

Fastening CertaWrap™ Weather

16"

32"

Resistant Barrier

To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the appropriate recommended fasteners and fastening schedule for your application.

Wood-based sheathing

When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on woodbase sheathing, such as 7/16" OSB or 15/32" plywood, apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically and horizontally.

Open-stud construction or non-structural sheathing

When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on open studs or non-structural sheathing, apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails long enough to penetrate the stud a minimum of 5/8" every 32" vertically and horizontally.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Steel framing

12"

(min.)

flap

When installing CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier over steel framing, use screws with minimum 1" diameter washers every 32" vertically and horizontally.

STUDﬁnder™ installation instructions

1. The STUDﬁnder Installation System combines precisely

engineered fastening locations with graphics that help ensure quick, accurate, and secure installation. Install CertaWrap horizontally to exterior walls prior to the application of exterior cladding. Vertically position the CertaWrap roll at the corner of the structure with the printed side out.

2. Locate the ﬁrst stud and verify that it is plumb. Align the ﬁrst

stud with the nearest vertical STUDﬁnder line, allowing for a minimum 12" ﬂap to wrap the corner for attachment to the adjoining wall. Extend the bottom edge of the CertaWrap 2"–4" over the sill plate. Apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically along the ﬁrst stud to secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier into position.

3. Unroll the CertaWrap along the exterior wall. Wrap CertaWrap

completely around the building, covering window and door openings, plates, sills and corners.

4. To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the fasteners

and fastening schedule that is appropriate for your application. The STUDﬁnder marks will quickly guide you to your desired fastening location without the need for chalk lines. Each letter is spaced 1.6" apart, and each series spans 16". To achieve 32" spacing between fasteners, ﬁrst locate the letter that the ﬁrst row of fasteners covers. The second repeat of that letter is at 32".

5. Pull the CertaWrap snug and fasten it to the studs or sheathing

and to the top and bottom plates.

6. When starting a new roll in the middle of a wall, overlap vertical

and horizontal laps in the ﬁeld a minimum of 6". When starting a new roll at an inside or outside corner, overlap vertical and horizontal seams a minimum of 12". All vertical and horizontal seams are to be installed in a weatherboard fashion. Lap CertaWrap over all existing ﬂashings (e.g. z-ﬂashing, roof-towall ﬂashing, drip cap).

7. Flash or tape all vertical and horizontal seams and penetrations.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Drop-in foam backer boards

Some drop-in foam backers can restrict the movement of vinyl siding. Therefore, CertainTeed vinyl siding may not be applied over any drop-in foam backer other than a contoured drop-in foam backer designed speciﬁcally for each proﬁle.

IMPORTANT: CertainTeed will not accept any responsibility or liability in the event the drop-in foam backer restricts the movement of the vinyl. The use, ﬁt, and performance of the siding backer board is the responsibility of the installer and the backer board manufacturer.

NOTE: Contoured drop-in foam backer boards are not a substitute for rigid foam sheathing.

Home improvement projects

You can prepare your current siding surface to receive vinyl siding in one of three ways:

Strip off old siding and level the wall. If felt paper covers the wall, you have two alternatives: either strip it off completely or staple or nail it to create a smooth surface. If there is no solid sheathing under the old siding, you must apply it as described in the instructions for New Construction.

Apply rigid sheathing to existing siding to provide a smooth surface. Nail securely to old siding. Nail evenly to bridge low spots.

NOTE: Failure to establish a smooth, solid surface constitutes misapplication under the terms of the warranty.

Apply vertical furring to old siding to straighten noticeable surface unevenness. (See “Tips for applying wood furring.”) Then apply rigid sheathing, following the instructions presented under New Construction.

NOTE: For information on installing siding over asbestos and for historic applications, see page 142.

Tips for applying wood furring

If you are working on an older home with noticeably uneven walls, you must correct this condition before proceeding. If not corrected during preparation, this uneven surface will produce a wavy appearance in siding applied over it.

For best results, space horizontal furring strips 12" on center. Do not exceed 16". To correct an uneven wall, use furring strips (and wood shims if necessary) to eliminate low spots.

NOTE: You must apply rigid sheathing over furring.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

undersill trim

sill

J-channel

siding

J-channel

sill

When covering over masonry or bricks, it’s better to use 1" x 3" furring. For best thermal performance, install a minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.

Furring strip/foam shim

Furring and/or foam is also used below eaves and windowsills to maintain correct slope angles when siding panels must be cut to a narrower dimension to ﬁt.

Similarly, when panels are cut to ﬁt over doors or windows, furring and/or foam is used to establish the correct slope angle.

furring strip/foam shim

foam sheathing

16"

stucco

1" x 3" furring

masonry fastener for attaching furring

Applying over stucco or masonry

When applying vinyl siding over stucco or masonry, you ﬁrst have to be sure you’re working on an even surface. To create that surface, you may have to knock down high spots where furring strips will be applied. Use caution when chipping off these spots—you don’t want to crack or damage the remaining stucco or masonry.

Apply 1" x 3" furring over the stucco or masonry using poweractuated fasteners or other appropriate masonry fasteners. Stucco will not hold fasteners tightly, so be sure nails or screws are anchored securely to studs. Furring strips should be spaced 16" on center.

Applying rigid foam sheathing to furring

Install sheathing according to manufacturer’s instructions. Do not apply siding directly to furring strips. For best thermal performance, install a minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.

sheathing or substrate

center nail in slots

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Applying over steel studs

Pre-planning is the key when installing vinyl siding and accessories over steel studs. Pre-planning includes the selection of siding style and the types of accessories. Pre-planning proper stud placement will eliminate many of the problems that could surface once the job has been started, such as at corners, windows, and transitional areas.

Follow the same guidelines as in a wood surface—except for the type of fasteners used. Wall sheathing must be installed over the studs. This will provide a straighter, smoother and more rigid wall surface and help prevent studs from twisting. Siding must be secured into metal studs if the substrate is not a nailable surface such as exterior dry wall, gypsum board, etc.

The application of vinyl siding, sofﬁts and accessories over steel stud framing rather than typical wood framing is straightforward. The main difference is the use of screws to hang components that make up a completed siding job.

Use noncorrosive, self-tapping screws with at least 5/16" diameter head, 1/8" diameter shaft, and at least 1-1/8" long.

center nail in slots

upper edge of topmost nailing slot

Although the fastening method for steel studs differs from wood construction, all other procedures still apply, including fastening in the center of the nail slot and not overtightening the fasteners.

Nailing, Stapling and Other Fastening Methods

If you want to ensure a quality vinyl siding installation, focus your attention on nailing techniques. Unfortunately, a lot of installers don’t. They feel nailing is a routine task, something everyone knows how to do. But that’s not the case. At CertainTeed, we

analyzed reported installation problems, and we found that more than half of them can be traced back to improper nailing. So if you want to save yourself lost time and frustration,

carefully observe the following guidelines when installing accessories, siding panels, sofﬁt, or porch ceilings.

Lock the panel and begin nailing at the center of the panel, working toward the ends. This helps maintain a level line.

With horizontal accessories and panels, position the nails in the center of the elongated nailing slots to allow for expansion and contraction. Never nail through the panel surface.

Note: See pages 35-36 for general fastening guidelines

With vertical accessories and panels, position the first nail at the upper edge of the topmost nailing slot. This allows a panel to hang from the nail. Position the remaining nails in the center of the nailing slots. Allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top

and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Too Tight

Up to 1/8"

Too Loose

Center staples in slots

Correct

NOTE: Do not nail too tightly. To permit expansion and contraction, panels should hang freely from nails. This allows the panels to move as the temperature changes. Drive the nails until there is between 1/8" to 1/16" of space between the nail head and the nailing ﬂange.

Drive the nails straight in. Do not angle nails.

Per the ASTM speciﬁcation for vinyl siding installation (D4756), proper nail penetration is at least 3/4". In most cases, that requires anchoring to studs.

Fastener spacing

Fasteners are typically spaced a maximum of 16" apart. In new construction, fasten to studs on 16" centers. Do not skip studs. Some vinyl siding may be used in 24" on center construction in areas without special wind-load requirements (fasteners spaced a maximum of 24" apart). Check with your local building code ofﬁcial for special requirements and ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for speciﬁc wind-load requirements.

Other fastening techniques:

Manual nailing is the most common way of fastening vinyl siding to a wall. That’s because it offers greater control, making it easier to learn how to fasten panels securely, but not tightly. You also can use power screwdrivers or pneumatic staplers/ nailers to attach vinyl siding to a wall, but you must take the time to develop the proper skills. If you choose to use one of these alternate techniques, follow all the recommendations above for nail positioning and spacing and the recommendations for substrate preparation on pages 28 to 32 for horizontal applications and page 80 for vertical, including Board & Batten. In addition, be sure to observe the following guidelines:

Power screwdrivers

Use noncorrosive, self-tapping truss head screws. Screws must have at least 5/16" diameter head and 1/8" diameter shaft. Screws must be at least 1-1/8" long. If underlayment is less than 3/4" thick and is not considered a nailable surface (for example, foam or exterior grade gypsum), be sure screws are long enough to penetrate at least 3/4" into wood studs or substrate, 1/8" through a steel stud. Be sure screws are centered in the nail slot. Leave

1/16" to 1/8" space between the screw head and the panel nailing ﬂange.

Pneumatic staplers/nailers

Use corrosion-resistant fasteners only. Fasteners must be centered in the nail slot, no more than 16" on center.

NOTE: Some power staplers/nailers use an attachment that helps position the fastener in the nail slot. If your unit does not have that feature, you must carefully position the fastener by sight.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Fasteners must penetrate a nailable surface at least 3/4". Be sure to leave up to 1/16" between the fastener and the panel nailing ﬂange. If you’re using a power stapler, drive the staple perpendicular to the nailing slot with one leg of the staple centered in the slot and the other leg above the panel.

NOTE: Check with local building codes to verify fastener requirements for your area.

Nail Spacing and Product Expansion and Contraction

It’s normal for vinyl building products to expand and contract with temperature changes. To ensure a successful siding installation, you must allow for this movement during application.

See the following charts for more information.

1/4" to 3/8"

Product

Category

top most nail at the top of the top most full nail slot

Max. Nail

Spacing Gaps to Accessories

Vertical Siding 12"

center remaining nails in the slot

3/8" to 1/2"

Hang off of top nail slot (see page 80 for more details).

Max. Nail

Spacing Gaps to Accessories Overlap

40°F

or Greater

Less than

40° F

40°F

or Greater

40°F

or Greater

3/16" top

3/8" bottom

Less than

40° F

Less than

40° F

1/4" top

1/2" bottom

Notes Speciﬁc

to Product

Fasten

Cedar Impressions

at Delta

1/4" 3/8"

Indicators

Northwoods 16" 1/4" 3/8"

CedarBoards 16" 1/4" 3/8"

CedarBoards XL 16" 3/8" 1/2"

Use Temp.

Marks/

Gauge

Use Temp.

Marks

1-1/2"

Butt Foam

1-1/4" to

1-3/4"

Use Temp.

Marks/ Gauge

Use Temp.

Marks

1-1/2"

Butt

Foam

1-1/2"

Butt

Foam

All panels must be center pinned (see page 95 for more details)

All panels must be center pinned (see page 125 for more details)

sheathing

housewrap

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing Accessories

Snapping a chalk line

To ensure proper installation, you must establish a straight reference line to guide the positioning of the starter strip and the ﬁrst course of siding.

starter

strip

metal

flashing

foundation

If the house is reasonably level, ﬁnd the lowest point of the old siding (or sheathing if working on new construction). Partially drive a nail at one corner, starter height minus 1/4" above the lowest corner. Attach chalk line. Go to other corner and pull the chalk line taut. Stretch the chalk line from this nail to the opposite corner of the house. Make sure the line is level, using a line level or 4' (minimum) level. Snap chalk line and repeat the procedure around the entire house.

A water level, a long clear plastic tube 90% ﬁlled with water, is useful in marking level points around the house and on opposite sides of openings such as doors. Water will always seek a level state, ensuring the markings will always be at the same level.

NOTE: If after establishing a chalk line you ﬁnd that your starter strip will be positioned below an easily nailed surface, you may have to apply a nailable base.

If you have added sheathing, you may want to bend trim coil to act as ﬂashing and help prevent entry of insects. Bend the coil in a “Z” shape so the top edge of the coil is on the chalk line and the bottom edge extends down over the foundation. (See illustration.)

NOTE: The general guidelines for cutting and nailing vinyl panels and for allowing for expansion and contraction also apply to vinyl accessory items.

6-1/2"

for wide

corners

& lineals

4" for

standard

corners

8" to 10"

Installing the starter strip

Position the starter strip with the top edge on the chalk line and the ends 6-1/2" away from the outside and inside corners (when using lineal systems or wide corners), 4" if using standard one-piece corners. Nail to wall following previously mentioned nailing instructions. When hollows occur in the wall surface, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the ﬁnished siding job. Nail every 8" to 10".

As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4" space between them for expansion.

Sometimes—especially at sills above garage doors, porches or brick surfaces where the siding has been cut lengthwise —you may ﬁnd it easier to use a combination of utility trim and J-channel as a starter strip to secure a panel.

If you are concerned that the house is not level, measure down from the sofﬁt at one corner of the house to the top of the foundation and subtract the width of the starter strip minus 1/4". Mark the wall, then transfer the measurement to the other corner of the wall. Snap a chalk line in between the corners at the marks.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4"

3/4"

Top of topmost nail, center remaining nails

flashing

nail every 8" to 10"

Outside Cornerposts

Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20"-wide piece of aluminum trim coil 90° so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower pieces. (Self-adhering ﬂashing may be substituted for trim coil. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions and observe local building code requirements.)

For cornerposts 12' long or less

Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is 1/4" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.

Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the cornerpost by ﬁrst positioning a nail at the top of the topmost nail slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow this nailing pattern on both nail ﬂanges of each post.

NOTE: CedarBoards corners install similar to standard outside cornerposts.

3/8"

3/4"

Top of two top nail slots, center remaining nails

flashing

For cornerposts longer than 12' long

Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is 3/8" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.

Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the cornerpost by ﬁrst positioning a nail at the top of the two top nail slots slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow this nailing pattern on both nail ﬂanges of each post.

NOTE: When installing any hanging cornerpost longer than 12', position the fasteners at the top of the top two nail slots on each side of the corner.

Transitioning from masonry to stucco

Position the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip. If the corner is less than 12', leave 3/8" from masonry/ﬂashing to allow for expansion. If the corner is greater than 12', leave 5/8" from masonry/ﬂashing for expansion.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If the transition material allows, the bottom 3/4" of the channels may be removed from the outside cornerpost so that the face of the corner may be positioned lower and more in line with the bottom of the siding. This method creates a transition with more pleasing aesthetics. The outside cornerpost face must still maintain 3/8" or 5/8" clearance from obstructions.

If posts must be spliced for high walls, you have two options:

Option 1

1/4"

1 pc. outside corner piece

flashing behind finished corner assembly

Cut 1" off the nailing ﬂanges and back so just the face of the outside cornerpost remains. Then lap 3/4" of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4" gap for expansion. This method will provide an obvious joint between the two posts, but will allow water to ﬂow over the joint, reducing the chance of water inﬁltration.

When the bottom edge of a cornerpost terminates into a porch, deck, brick, stone ledge, or roof line, etc., allow 3/8" for every 10' of corner when the ambient temperature is above 40°F; 1/2" for every 10' of corner when the ambient temperature is 40°F or below.

NOTE: It is acceptable to reverse lap outside corners as long as the corners are properly ﬂashed and water can drain from the bottom of the cornerpost.

Option 2

Cut a 6" length of cornerpost and trim the nail ﬂange, receiving channel, and sides until you have just a 90° bend of vinyl. Using PVC primer and PVC cement, glue the bent piece to the inside of the upper post and lower post. Butt the two posts together. Nail the entire assembly as one post with all nails in the lower post centered in the nail slots.

Also see additional instructions covering installation of four-piece cornerposts (page 40).

butted splice joint

splice backer (hidden)

cornerpost

splice backer

PVC adhesive on backside of cornerposts

PVC primer and PVC cement must be used

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

7/8"

Capping an outside cornerpost

One method of capping an outside cornerpost is to cut a piece of J-channel twice as long as the width of the corner-post face. Mark a 90° angle from the center and cut out this area. Then cut 7/8" away from each end, except for the nailing ﬂange. Bend the J-channel in the center and nail it to the outside of the corner of the house. Then insert the cornerpost into the J-channel.

Another alternative is to trim the nail ﬂange, receiving channel, and sides from the bottom 1" of the cornerpost. Notch 1" at the 90° bend, fold the bottom 1" of the cornerpost face, and fasten these “ﬂaps” with a pop rivet.

Extra Wide Corner Posts (Four-Piece Corner System)

Extra-wide cornerposts give you a distinctive, easy-to-install method of ﬁnishing outside corners. Each cornerpost consists of four parts: corner starter, two lineals, and a quarter-round snap-in insert.

long leg insert

Lineals are available in two board styles: 5" smooth and 3-1/2" smooth.

The installation procedure is identical for all lineals and inserts. To install this four-part accessory, follow these steps:

Before you begin, make sure the corners are ﬂashed properly.

Measure the vertical span, and allow 1/4" from the underside of the eave if the post is 12' or shorter and 3/8" from the underside if the post is longer than 12'. Extend the cornerpost 3/4" below the bottom of the starter strip. Cut all four pieces using a power circular saw.

Hang a starter strip. Position the starter strip, leaving 1/4" allowance for expansion at the top and 3/8" at the bottom. Position the ﬁrst nail at the uppermost edge of top nail slot (shown). Nail loosely. Working from the top down, position the remaining nails every 8" to 10", with the nails centered in the slots.

Attach the side lineals. Lock the ﬁrst lineal into the starter strip. Nail it to the sheathing, following the procedure described above. Repeat the process for the other lineal.

Snap in the quarter-round corner insert. Working from the bottom up, begin by inserting the longer leg of the insert into the nail ﬂange side of the starter strip ﬁrst; then snap in the shorter leg. Lightly press along the length of the insert as you snap it into place.

NOTE: For a more secure installation, use a pop rivet to attach the molding insert to a side lineal. The rivet should be positioned at the top of the cornerpost.

1/4" to 3/8"

hang from top

nail, center

remaining nails

8" to 10"

3/4"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Inside Cornerposts

There are three options for trimming inside corners: Standard 3/4" inside cornerpost, single J-channel, and two J-channels.

To ﬂash the inside corner, bend a 20"-wide piece of aluminum coil stock 90° so you have two 10" legs. Insert the ﬂashing into the corner. If you use more than one piece of ﬂashing, overlap the upper pieces of the ﬂashing over the lower pieces.

To install inside cornerpost, hang the post from the top of the eave. The bottom should extend 3/4" below the starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing ﬂange so it does not show below the siding. Set the post straight and true. Position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be in the center of the nail slots

solid nailable

substrate

(scrap aluminum coil, for example)

corner flashing

inside cornerpost splice

standard 3/4"

inside corner post

two J-channels

single J-channel

If you have to splice the inside cornerpost, cut 1" off all but the outer face of the lower post. Lap 3/4" of the upper post over the lower post, leaving 1/4" for expansion.

If you are using two pieces of J-channel instead of inside cornerpost, ﬂash the corner with a 10" x 10" “L” corner fabricated from aluminum coil stock or any weather-resistant barrier. Hang the J-channel from the top of the eave. The bottom should extend 3/4” below the starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing ﬂange so that it will not show below the siding. Use the same positioning and nailing guidelines as inside cornerpost.

To create a narrower corner, you can also use a single length of J-channel and ﬂashing. First, install the siding on one wall. Then place the J-channel lightly against the siding and nail it to the substrate on the adjacent wall. Follow the same positioning and nailing guidelines as inside cornerposts.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

“L” shaped

flashing

Federal Corners

To create a federal-style corner, ﬂash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other ﬂashing materials. Hang a new construction starter strip. Position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.

Position and secure the 3-1/2" lineal.

Position and secure an aluminum starter strip.

Position and secure the 5" lineal.

NOTE: Aluminum starter can be used for both lineals. If the aluminum starter used for the 5" lineal is not long enough, fashion a starter using a metal brake and coil stock to a length that allows for proper nailing into the substrate.

“L” shaped

flashing

Inside Federal Corners

Flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other ﬂashing materials.

Position and secure the 5" lineals (or a 3-1/2" lineal) by butting the lineal up to the inside corner. Using a 5" lineal will create a symmetric 3-1/2" exposure in the corner. If two 3-1/2" lineals are used, one exposure will be approximately 2-1/4" and one will be 3-1/2".

NOTE: Attaching the second lineal will keep the ﬁrst lineal in place. You will not need a starter strip. Always position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.

Position and secure the starter strip.

Position and secure the remaining lineal.

for angles less than 45°

push down until nail flanges seat flat

for angles 45° and larger

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Trimming Bay Window Corners

There are several ways to trim the odd angles of bay windows. Here are two of them:

1. Install bay window cornerpost.

2. Install J-channel with a quarter-round insert.

Before you begin, make sure the corner is properly ﬂashed.

Install bay window cornerpost

• Cut bay window cornerpost to the proper length.

• For angles less than 45°, push down on the face of the corner

until the nail ﬂanges seat ﬂat against the wall surfaces.

• Hang the cornerpost by nailing loosely into the topmost nail slot.

• Make sure the cornerpost is straight and true.

• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum

of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction.

remove half of the longer leg

• Fit the siding into the cornerpost.

Install J-Channel with quarter-round insert

• Cut two pieces of J-channel and one piece of quarter-round

insert to length.

• Pop rivet the J-channels to each side of the quarter-round insert

in at least three places.

pop rivets

• Nail the assembly to the corner, remembering to hang the

assembly from the topmost full nail slot.

• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum

of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the J-channel for normal expansion and contraction.

• Fit the siding into the J-channels.

See page 109 for installing bay window corners with Cedar Impressions Siding.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Decorative Trim Options around Windows and Doors

2-1/2" Window and door casing

System requires 2-1/2" window and door casing.

3-1/2" Snap-on lineal

System requires 1" face J-channel.

3-1/2" Lineal system

System requires 3-1/2" lineals and starter strips.

5" x 3-1/2" Lineal system

System requires 5" lineals, 3-1/2" lineals, and starter strips.

3-1/2" Lineal system with corner block

System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, and lineal corner block.

3-1/2" Lineal system with corner block and rosette

System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, lineal corner block, and rosette.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Window Flashing

If installing a new window and ﬂashing, refer to the window manufacturer’s instructions and ASTM E2112, Standard Practice for Installation of Exterior Walls, Doors, and Skylights for the proper ﬂashing installation method for the window type and wall conﬁguration of the project.

The width of all ﬂashings is determined by the type of accessory surrounding the window and where the ﬁnal complete course of siding stops below the window (in the case of the ﬂashing under the window). The ﬂashing should extend past the nail ﬂanges of the accessory. The width of the ﬂashing under the window must allow for the diversion of water.

Installing CertaFlash BA around a rectangular window

1. Make diagonal cuts in the weather-resistant barrier at the upper

corners of the top (head) of the rough opening. Gently lift and tape the ﬂap temporarily in place.

2. Cut a piece of CertaFlash Flex ﬂashing for the bottom (sill) that

is 12" longer than the width of the rough opening. Remove the backer from the ﬂashing and begin applying one end to the jamb of the rough opening 6" above the sill. (NOTE: the tape will extend over the exterior edge of the jamb.) Applying even pressure to the tape with your hands, work your way down the jamb, across the sill, and up the opposite jamb, ﬁnishing 6" above the sill. Flex the overhanging tape down onto the wall, covering the weather resistant barrier in weatherboards fashion, again applying even pressure to ensure adhesion.

3. Before installing the window, apply a continuous bead of

sealant to the interior of the window’s mounting ﬂange. Install the window according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Cut two strips of CertaFlash BA for the sides (jambs) of the

window. Jamb ﬂashing tape should extend a minimum of 3" above the top of the jambs of the window unit and a minimum of 1" beyond the bottom ﬂashing tape installed in step #2, covering the width of the previously installed ﬂashing at the base. Slowly peel release paper off as you press the ﬂashing in place. Ensure the ﬂashing covers all nails and mounting slots on the window’s mounting ﬂange.

5. Cut BA ﬂashing for the top (head) of the opening so it will

extend beyond both ends of the jamb ﬂashing Ensure the ﬂashing covers all nails and mounting slots on the window’s mounting ﬂange.

6. Finally, lay weather resistant barrier over the head ﬂashing.

Apply CertaTape over both diagonal cuts.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

rain tab

Installing Window and Door Trim

Install J-channel along the top and sides of door casings and around windows.

NOTE: When installing J-channel around replacement windows that do not have nail ﬂanges, add ﬂashing for greater protection against water inﬁltration. For an example of completed ﬂashing, see the previous page.

There are two methods of joining J-channels at corners. The easiest method is to square cut the corners. For a more ﬁnished appearance, you can miter the corners. To prevent gaps, do not butt ends. Instead, lap them as shown.

To square cut corners

Install J-channels at the sides of the windows. Notch them as shown.

NOTE: For best results, use aviation snips when cutting J-channel.

Cut the top and bottom J-channels so the ends extend beyond the casing to the width of side J-channels.

Place the top J-channel along the casing shoulder and nail it to the wall.

rain tab

1" or dimension of J-channel face)

rain tab

Make two cuts in the bottom of the upper channel and bend it down to overlap the side J-channel. Repeat for the other side. This forms a water drain and allows the J-channel to receive siding panel.

Nail the bottom J-channel in place. Cut the channel as previously described. Fold the rain tabs into the receiving pockets for a tighter miter joint.

To miter cut corners

For best results, make sure you cut all J-channels to the proper length, leaving the proper allowance for the width of the face of the J-channel.

Square cut the bottom J-channel so that its ends extend beyond the window casing to the width of the face of the side J-channels. Notch the ends for clearance. Position and nail the J-channel.

Measure the side J-channels, adding the width of both the top and bottom J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the lower ends of both side J-channels. Notch the channel to form a rain tab, position it and nail.

Mark the top J-channel so its ends extend beyond the casing to the width of the side J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the ends. Cut and bend rain tabs. Position and nail.

NOTE: You can create blind miters on a J-channel using a J-channel cutter.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

3-1/2" Snap-on Lineal Application around Windows and Doors

This application works only on 1"-faced J-channel .

The installation of J-channel for snap-on lineals is the same procedure as installing lineal starter strip. Measure the openings and cut the J-channel 1/2" less than your measurement. Install the J-channel around the opening, centering the J-channel so that each end of the J-channel is 1/4" from the opening. Nail the J-channel every 8" to 10".

Lineal application around windows

Measure the top of the casing and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each side). After the piece is cut to length, ﬂip it over and cut 3/8" off the locking leg as shown.

Snap the lineal over the J-channel as shown.

Repeat the process for the bottom of the casing.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Measure the side casing and add 7". Use a triangle to create a 45˚ angle or measure 3-1/2" in from the edge of the part. Use snips or a miter saw to remove this portion.

Flip the part over and remove the locking leg as shown. This should be done to both ends.

Snap the lineal over the J-channel as shown. Use the same measurements for both sides.

Corner blocks

Install J-channel around the perimeter of the window opening. J-channel should be the same length as the casing.

Install corner blocks on all 4 corners as shown. Leave blocks loose until the lineals are installed.

Cut the lineals the same length as the window casing.

Start with one end and angle a lineal into the corner block and snap it over the J-channel.

Continue installing lineals around the window.

Crown molding

Crown molding will ﬁt over the top of the lineal system.

Install J-channel and lineals around window casing.

Measure the top lineal and add 2-1/2". This will be the crown molding length.

Insert crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the shape. Trim off the marked line.

The crown molding requires a tab 2" long—cut from the pocket receiver as shown.

Cut the crown molding cap in half and apply the halves with a bead of caulk.

Insert the crown molding into the top of the lineal as shown.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

measure window and subtract 1/2" (leaving 1/4" per side as shown)

vertical pieces: place the uppermost nail in top of nail slot (still loose nailed)

1/4"

window or door frame

Lineal Starter Application for Windows and Door Surrounds

When securing window and corner starter strips, outside corner pieces (OSCP), inside corner pieces (ISCP), one piece corners, lineals—basically, any vertically mounted siding product—always place the top nail (or staple) ﬁrst, and in a manner that allows the part to hang from it without dropping. This promotes movement downward only, a must for a good corner joint. This is the only time you should not center a nail (or staple). It is also preferred to use the nail slots closest to the locking area (when using product with double nail slots).

Remember to place the nails for the horizontal pieces in the center of the nailing slots as shown. Space nails 8" to 10" apart.

remaining vertical nails and all horizontal nails: place in center of slots

1/2"

J-channel

wall (substrate)

door opening

inverted metal starter

Using a 1/2" J-channel as a starter for lineals

NOTE: Slide the lineals on from either end of the J-channel (the lineal will not snap over the J-channel as with a New Construction Starter Strip), or pull the J-channel away from the window slightly and zip the lineal into place.

If the opening has no framework, such as a brick molding, use the metal starter (illustrated below left), or the Remodeling Window and Door Starter (illustrated below) in place of the New Construction Window and Door Starter Strip shown above. The lineal’s locking leg will ﬁt behind the aluminum starter and into the receiving pocket of the Remodeling Window and Door Starter.

door opening

remodeling window and door starter

wall (substrate)

position of nail

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Lineal Application around Windows

3-1/2"

remove

cut for

rain tab

45°

3-1/2"

Measure the top of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if using 5" lineals.

Use a triangle to create a 45° angle or measure 3-1/2" in from the locking leg.

NOTE: The nail ﬂange is always the longest part of a surrounding miter.

Use snips to remove the part as shown.

rain tab

back-side view of mitered lineal

Cut a 3/4" rain tab (as shown).

Snap the completed top lineal into the previously attached starter strip.

NOTE: The bottom miter of side lineals has the same cut as both ends of a top lineal.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/2"

window or door frame

view of above notches from back side of lineal

rain tab shown bent into

receiving pocket of side lineal

Measure the height of the window or door. Add 7" (for the 3-1/2" header and bottom lineal) and cut.

3-1/2"

NOTE: Add additional material if using 5" lineals.

3/4"

Trim a minimum of 3/4" from the top end of the side lineals.

window frame

Snap the side lineals into place, making sure the rain tabs of the top lineal are bent down into the receiving pocket of the side lineals.

If the lineal surrounds a window frame, the bottom corner requires a 45° miter as done previously for the top lineal.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

window frame

3-1/2"

3/4"

Measure the bottom of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if using 5" lineals.

Trim 3/4" tabs from the lineal as shown.

view of notching from back side (same on both ends)

Snap the lineal in place and secure by nailing (or stapling) it through center of the nail slots.

finished assembly with side lineal

5" lineal

flashing

new construction starter strip

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Lineals over Horizontal Siding

dual undersill trim

Hand punch horizontal siding (locking area has been removed). Siding panel locks into dual undersill trim.

Capping a Lineal Used as a Rake Board

Cut a section of lineal equal in length to the face of the lineal. This dimension is dependent on the rake angle.

Butt dual undersill trim upward against the bottom of the flashing

Using PVC cement primer and cement on both pieces, slide the part into the lineal to create an assembly.

Apply the assembly to the wall and secure it, nailing as necessary.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/8" per side

make 1" cuts

Corner Blocks

Corner block

Install 1/2" J-channel as a starter. Measure and cut the side lineals to the exact size of the window or door opening.

Cut the top and bottom lineals 1/4" longer than the window.

Using vinyl snips, make two 1" long cuts in the pocket areas on both sides of each lineal. These cuts allow the lineals to connect with the corner block and help provide proper drainage.

NOTE: It may be helpful to hold off securing the lineals until the corner block is in place.

Position the corner block by inserting the top lineal into the corner block’s receiving area—making sure the lineal’s pocket is inside that of the corner block.

Position the vertical (side) lineal into the corner block by inserting the pocket of the corner cover into the pocket of the lineal. This will ensure proper drainage.

2-5/16"

rosette center (back side)

2-5/16"

rosette clip

Corner block with rosette

Locate the small dimple on the back side of the block’s face or measure 2-5/16" as shown and mark.

Drill or punch a 3/32" to 1/8" diameter hole through the face of the block—the hole must not be larger than 1/8".

NOTE: Check the back side of the block for this location— marked by “+”.

Apply the rosette clip from the backside. If desired, a small amount of caulk can be applied over the hole prior to applying the rosette.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

5" Square Header with End Caps over 3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms

Assemble the 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals should extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.

3/4"

3/4" rain tab

end cap (from 5" lineal)

5" lineal

header

removing this section allows side 3-1/2" lineal to

1-1/8"

3-1/2"

slide behind the 5" header

Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends into the receiving area of the side lineals.

1-1/2" to 1-3/4" slit in pocket area of the 3-1/2" side lineals

NOTE: If using crown molding, see page 58.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

remove

3/4"

remove

Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals

To create the header, ﬁrst cut a 7" piece of 5" lineal. Measure and trim as shown.

The resulting piece ﬁts into the end of the 5" lineal.

The ends of the 5" lineal also need trimming to receive the end caps. Create a 3/4" rain tab in the pocket area and trim off a 3/4" tab from the bottom.

raintab

3/4"

NOTE: To make end caps for 3-1/2" lineals, simply start with a 5-1/2" piece and remove the 3/4" and 2" areas as shown for the 5" end caps.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Slip Joints for Lineal Corners

Assemble the 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals should extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.

3/4"

3/4" rain tab

5" lineal

1-1/8"

header

3-1/2"

removing this section allows side 3-1/2" lineal to slide behind the 5" header

3/4" end cap (from 5" lineal

Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends into the receiving area of the side lineals.

1-1/2" to 1-3/4" slit in pocket area of the 3-1/2" side lineals

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Crown Molding Treatment Options

Option 1 (page 59)

• Crown molding

• Crown molding end caps

• 3/4" Pocket J-channel header and surround

Other options are possible with the crown molding: For example, use 3-1/2" lineals vertically and at the window base along with a J-channel and crown molding header. The only requirement for using the crown molding is having receiving channels 3/4" wide.

Option 2 (page 59)

• Crown molding

• Crown molding end caps

• 3-1/2" Lineal header

• 3-1/2" Lineal surrounds

NOTE: Corner blocks/rosettes can be used to join lineals at the corner.

Option 3 (page 60)

• Crown molding

• Crown molding end caps

• 5" Lineal header

• 5" Header end caps

• 3-1/2" Lineal surrounds

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

cut crown molding

cap in half

2" rain tab

window flashing

insert cap (see above for instructions on assembling the cap)

window or door frame

Crown Molding and Cap for 3/4" Pocket J-Channel

You will need:

• Crown molding

• Crown molding end caps

• 3/4" pocket J-channel header and surround

To use crown molding with 3/4" pocket J-channels, measure the length of the completed J-channel surround and add 2-1/2" (the crown molding overlaps the J-channels by 1-1/4" per side).

Insert the crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the tip shape. Trim as shown.

Insert 1/2 of the crown molding cap into each end of the crown molding lineal. Secure the crown molding with a bead of caulk.

Miter or square cut the J-channel (mitered corner is shown). Insert the 3/4" wide rain tab into the receiving channel of the side J-channel.

rain

tab

Crown Molding with 3-1/2" Lineal Surround

In addition to J-channel, crown moldings can also be used with lineals. The next two pages demonstrate how crown molding can be used with various lineal conﬁgurations. Above all, remember that before applying accessories and siding, make certain the substrate is watertight. In order to be properly protected from precipitation, the substrate may need to be properly ﬂashed to shed water to the exterior. The siding alone is not a watertight barrier.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/16" to 1/8" per side

5" lineal header

window or door frame

3-1/2" lineal

Crown Molding with Cap for 5" Header Lineal

Crown molding with 5" header and 3-1/2" surrounds.

Determine the header length by measuring from the outside of both side lineals and adding 1/16" to 1/8" per side for overlap.

To cut the crown molding, add 2-1/2" to the previously determined header length (1-1/4" added per side).

2-1/4"

To create the header end cap, cut a 9-1/4" piece of 5" lineal and trim as shown.

rain tab

Notch both ends of the header as shown.

3/4"

the crown molding requires a rain tab 2" long—cut from the pocket receiver

apply the crown molding to the header with a bead of caulk

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Insert a crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the shape. Trim as shown.

Insert the header cap.

cut in half

rain tab to divert water from crown molding to side lineals

finished assembly

Cut the crown molding cap in half. Apply each half to the end of the crown molding and secure it with a bead of caulk.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Band Board

Installing Band Board

Before you begin, determine where the last course of siding will end. Nail cornice receiver loosely every 8" to 10", with the nailing ﬁn facing up. Keep the cornice receiver straight as it establishes the line for the Band Board.

Install the last course of siding 1/4" below the cornice receiver. If necessary, trim the top of the siding panel to ﬁt below the cornice receiver. With a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4" from the panel’s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes for a loose ﬁt between the panel surface and the nail heads.

Cut Band Board to length, allowing for clearance between the Band Board ends and the trim for expansion and contraction. Push the snap leg of the Band Board into the cornice receiver. Nail the Band Board loosely every 10" to 12".

nail with fin facing up

Fitting into trim pieces

The Band Board is designed to ﬁt into 1-1/4" J-channel, pocket corners, and lineal accessories.

For lengths less than 12', allow 1/4" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40°F; allow 3/8" gap at temperatures below 40°F.

For lengths greater than 12', allow 3/8" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40°F; allow 1/2" gap at temperatures below 40°F.

When using the Band Board in installations with accessories that DO NOT have a 1-1/4" pocket, be sure to allow clearance between the two pieces for expansion. Trim a short section of Band Board to create an end cap for these applications.

Installing siding above Band Board

There are two ways to continue siding above the Band Board:

• For horizontal siding, use a starter strip. Position the starter

strip above the Band Board enough to allow the siding return leg to engage the starter strip.

push snap leg of band board into

cornice receiver

• For vertical siding, use J-channel. Align the nail slots of the

J-channel with the nail slots of the Band Board.

NOTE: When nailing a starter strip, avoid pinning the Band Board. The Band Board must be allowed to expand and contract freely.

2-3/4"–3"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Overlapping two pieces of Band Board

Only factory-cut edges can be used create a lap seam. The adhesive begins approximately 2" back from the end of the foam.

7-1/8"

For the underside piece, measure back 1-1/2" from the end of the vinyl. Cut back 1-1/2" of foam and remove the bottom portion of the rear return and snap leg. Slip the vinyl edge of the bottom portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel. Slide two pieces together, overlapping them 1-1/4", leaving a 1/4" gap between the foam for expansion.

Creating end caps for Band Board

To create end caps for Band Board:

1. Cut 1/8" off the bottom of a piece of Band Board, leaving a

piece that is 7-1/8" wide.

2. Remove the foam from the back of the piece.

3. Then, cut the piece down so that it is 2-3/4"–3" wide. The nail

hem will be either left or right, as the insert can be used for either side.

4. With the nail hem to the side, insert the cut piece between the

foam and the Band Board. This will form a tight ﬁt, but it may be necessary to glue or caulk at the point where the Band Board meets the cut piece.

NOTE: Depending upon the corner system you are using, you may have to trim the nail hem to ﬁt.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Blind Miter

An alternative to a standard blind miter offers support to the corner without adding material. The measurements shown for the fold are for a 5" lineal. The same method can be used with 3-1/2" lineals, but the fold would be changed from 1-1/2" to 1-3/8".

Remove this corner (dimension dependent on 1/2" minimum shown below)

3/4"

Measure and notch 1-1/2"

Measure at least 1-1/2" and notch with snips

Dotted line represents the position of a 45˚ mitered 5" lineal

45˚

Lineal Frieze Board

5" lineal

lineal starter

cornice receiver

1/4"

cornice molding

panel

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Finishing siding with Cornice Molding and Receiver

cornice molding

cornice receiver

1/4"

Finishing the last course of siding with Cornice Molding

To ﬁnish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to the top of the wall under the eave or sofﬁt. Trim the top panel to within 1/4"

1/4"

of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 16" apart. Nail off the top course and snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver.

Finishing siding in a rake application with Cornice Molding

When using cornice molding and receiver in a rake, shimming the receiver away from the wall may minimize rippling of the face. Cut a piece of shim material the full length of the cornice receiver and fasten shim material to the wall. Apply receiver over shim; then ﬁnish installing siding product and cornice molding as you normally would.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

90º

Installing J-Channel as Gable End Trim

Install J-channel to receive siding at gable ends, as shown in the illustration. To create a clean, professional look, follow these steps:

To create an angle template, hold a piece of J-channel against the slope while transferring the angle to another J-channel with a pencil.

Next, transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of J-channel. Be sure to extend the line onto the nail ﬂange. Cut away the channel face and the nail ﬂange.

90º

3/4"

Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the second J-channel, being sure to extend the line onto the nail ﬂange. Cut away the nail ﬂange and return lip, but do not cut the J-channel face.

Insert the full-faced J-channel into the mitered J-channel. If the nail ﬂange or return lips butt and prevent a tight ﬁt, trim off additional material from the second J-channel.

NOTE: For a more decorative appearance, you also can use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to trim gable ends (see next page for details).

To splice the J-channel, follow these steps:

Cut out a 1" section of the nailing ﬂange and face return as shown.

Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between the J-channel and the cornerposts. Overlap the J-channel 3/4" to allow for expansion. When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position the J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8" (1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).

90º

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Using Lineals as Gable Trim

You can give gable end trim a more dramatic appearance by using 3-1/2" or 5" lineals instead of J-channel.

To install the lineals:

Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. To create an angle template, lock a piece of lineal into the previous course of siding or other gable starter. Hold a second piece of lineal or starter against the slope and transfer the angle with a pencil.

Transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of lineal. Cut away the lineal face and nail ﬂange.

Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the second lineal. Trim the nail ﬂange and receiving channel from the opposite lineal to this line. Do not cut the lineal face.

90º

starter strip

Insert the full-faced lineal into the mitered lineal. If the nail ﬂange or return lips butt and prevent a tight ﬁt, trim off additional material from the second lineal.

Installing trim at roof line

To prevent water inﬁltration along the intersection of roof and wall, install ﬂashing before installing J-channel. At points where vinyl siding and accessories will meet at a roof line—such as areas where a gable dormer or a second story side wall intersect with the roof —it’s best to position the J-channel so it is a minimum of 1/2" away from the roof line. Placing the J-channel directly on the roof line will subject it to a build-up of heat, which could result in excessive expansion.

1/2" (min.)

NOTE: If you use more than one length of J-channel to span a wall surface, be sure to overlap them 3/4".

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

flashing

Using Restoration Millwork® in Place of Vinyl Accessories

optional J-Pocket

shim corners to create proper pocket height

flashing

measure width of window for first piece

top of window

bottom of window

Installing outside corners

Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20" wide piece of aluminum trim coil 90° so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower pieces. (Self-adhering ﬂashing may be substituted for trim coil. Follow manufacturer’s installation instructions and observe local building code requirements.)

Position the outside cornerpost with the top of the post 1/8" from the underside of the eave and the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip. Make sure posts are straight and true before fastening. For advice regarding fastening, please refer to “Restoration Millwork Installation Guidelines” (RM003), available online or where Restoration Millwork is sold.

NOTE: It may be necessary to shim or furr out the corners and/or window casings to get the proper pocket height. Always use shimming/furring materials, like Restoration Millwork, that will not rot or decay.

Installing Trimboards around windows

Flash the window according to the manufacturer’s speciﬁcations. Once the opening is properly ﬂashed, begin by measuring the width of the bottom edge of the window and, using this measurement, cut the ﬁrst section of Restoration Millwork. Apply this piece to the bottom of the window, verifying each end of the section lines up with the edge of the window prior to fastening.

To determine the length of the trim along the sides of the window, measure each side of the window starting at the top of the window and dropping down to the bottom edge of the ﬁrst piece of millwork applied. Using these measurements, cut the second and third sections of Restoration Millwork. Apply these pieces to the left and right sides of the window, verifying that the top edge of each section lines up with the top of the window and the bottom edge of each section lines up with the bottom edge of the ﬁrst piece of trim already applied.

measure from left side of trim to right side of trim

To determine the length of the top piece of trim, begin at the left side of the left piece of trim and measure to the right side of the right piece of trim. This measurement should equal the width of the window plus two times the actual width of the trimboards being applied. Cut the ﬁnal piece of trim and apply it at the top of the window, again verifying that the left and right edges of the cut section line up with the left and right edges of the trimboards in place at the sides of the window.

Once the top section of millwork is in place, apply ﬂashing in compliance with local building codes.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing Trimboards around exterior doors

Flash the door according to the manufacturer’s speciﬁcations. Once the opening is properly ﬂashed, begin by determining the length of the trim along the sides of the door by measuring each side. Start at the top of the door and drop down to the desired termination point. Using these measurements, cut the second and third sections of Restoration Millwork. Apply these pieces to the left and right sides of the door, verifying that the top edge of each section lines up with the top of the door.

To determine the length of the top piece of trim, begin at the left side of the left piece of trim and measure to the right side of the right piece of trim. This measurement should equal the width of the door plus two times the actual width of the trimboards being applied. Cut the ﬁnal piece of trim and apply it at the top of the door, again verifying that the left and right edges of the cut section line up with the left and right edges of the trimboards in place at the sides of the door.

Once the top section of millwork is in place, apply ﬂashing in compliance with local building codes.

Occasionally you will need to create a pocket to accommodate a nailing ﬂange:

1. Measure the width of the nailing ﬂange of the window at the

opening where you plan to apply the trim.

2. Set the blade depth of your table saw approximately 1/8"

higher than the width of the window nailing ﬂange.

3. Set the table saw fence so you are cutting away only the

thickness of the saw blade from the trimboard.

4. Make one cut from the back side of the trimboard on your

table saw.

5. Check to be sure the trimboard will lay ﬂat against the wall and

that all joints are tight before fastening. If the boards do not lay ﬂat against the wall or joints are not tight, repeat the above instructions starting at step 3.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Section 7 — Installing Horizontal Siding

Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding

CertainTeed provides quality vinyl siding and accessories that are backed by one of the industry’s best warranties. However, even the best products fall short of expectations if they are not installed properly. Following these ten recommendations—the basics of a professional installation—can help ensure a quality installation that fulﬁlls homeowners’ expectations and reduces call backs.

1. Install all siding and accessories over a smooth, ﬂat surface.

Always install siding over a rigid sheathing, and never install it over open studs.

2. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant

barrier, like CertainTeed CertaWrap, and ﬂash around all windows and doors before installing vinyl siding and trim.

3. There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding: For rip

cuts, score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the panel back and forth. Use aviator snips or shears to ﬁt panels around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with a plywood blade in the reverse position.

4. Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving

channels like outside cornerposts, inside cornerposts, and J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8".

5. When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or

shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the temperature).

6. Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for

siding; 8" to 12" for accessories.

7. DO NOT NAIL TIGHT! Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the

nail head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel expands and contracts.

8. Hang vertical accessories from the top of the top nail slot.

If the accessory is longer than 12', hang it from the top two nail slots.

9. Lap away from the highest trafﬁc pattern, typically the front of

the house. Keep laps at least 3' apart from course to course, and install three courses between laps above each other.

10. Finish the last piece of siding into utility trim or dual utility trim.

factory notches

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Cutting Panels

To cut panels to size, follow these procedures:

Cross cuts

For a precise cut, use a power circular saw equipped with a sharp, ﬁne-tooth plywood blade. For best results, reverse blade direction.

Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw through the vinyl. A rule of thumb: The lower the temperature, the slower the feed rate.

Panels can also be cut with snips. Use a square to mark the cut line. Start the cut at the top lock and continue to the bottom of the panel.

Rip cuts

Use a utility knife to score the panel along the cut line. Bend the panel back and forth along the score line until it snaps apart cleanly.

Carolina Beaded factory notches

Use a combination of tin snips and utility knife to cut panels to ﬁt around windows and doors.

Overlapping Panels

Refer to the chart on page 35/36 for required overlap spacing.

NOTE: Whenever you cut a panel to be used in an overlap area, you also have to duplicate the factory notch at both the top and bottom of the cut end.

NOTE: The Carolina Beaded panel is factory-notched in three places. For best results, overlap panels using factory notched ends only. If a panel must be cut on site, insert cut ends into receiving channels in cornerposts or J-channel. If this isn’t possible, create an exact duplicate of notches using aviation or tin snips.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

STUDﬁnder Installation System for 12' Panels

The STUDﬁnder™ Installation System combines precisely engineered nail slot locations with graphics to help ensure quick, accurate and secure installation of CertainTeed siding panels on homes with standard 16" or 24" o.c. frame construction.

NOTE: In areas without special wind-load requirements, some vinyl siding may be used in 24" o.c. construction. Check with your local building code ofﬁcial for special requirements and ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for special wind-load requirements.

Standard 12' panels feature 10 nail slots every 16", with one of the 10 letters in the word “STUDﬁnder” centered directly under each slot. Locate the ﬁrst stud and fasten the siding to it in the center of the nail slot. Ensure that nail/staple penetration is at least 3/4" to comply with ASTM D4756 (speciﬁcation for vinyl siding installation). Notice which STUDﬁnder letter appears below the slot.

Go to the next repeat of the letter to ﬁnd the next stud. For example, if your ﬁrst stud is at “T,” succeeding studs in 16" o.c. applications will also be at “T” (every 10th slot).

When you apply the next panel, adjust the overlap as necessary to line up with studs and repeat the steps above, but be aware that the overlapping panels may not use the same letter as your initial panel.

In 24" o.c. applications with standard size siding panels, 2 letters will repeat every other stud (every 15th slot). For example, if the ﬁrst stud is located at “S,” then the next will be at “i,” then “S,” then “i,” etc.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

STUDﬁnder Installation System for Oversized (16', 16' 8", 20' and 25') Panels

CertainTeed’s longer siding panels – 16'8" CedarBoards XL, 16' and 20' Monogram 46L and 25' Monogram 46XL – feature 8 nail slots every 16", with one of the 8 letters of the word “STUDﬁnd” centered directly under each slot. In 16" o.c. applications, locate the ﬁrst stud and follow the same basic procedure described for standard size panels: note which STUDﬁnd letter appears below the ﬁrst nail slot and go to the repeat of that letter to ﬁnd the next succeeding stud (every 8th slot).

When installing longer Monogram or CedarBoard panels on 24" centers, the succeeding studs are at every 12th slot; for example, if you start at “T,” then the next will be at “i,” then “T,” then “i,” etc.

NOTE: Monogram XL 25' panels must be “center pinned” to control expansion and contraction. To do so, locate the center nailing slot of the panel and drive nails into both ends of the slot (see illustration). This is only done for one nail slot per panel.

NOTE: Ensure that nail/staple penetration is at least 3/4" to comply with ASTM D4756 (speciﬁcation for vinyl siding installation). Also be sure to allow 3/8" for expansion and contraction between panel ends and trim when install temperature is greater than 40° F, and 1/2" for expansion and contraction between panel ends and trim when install temperature is less than 40° F.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Preparing Wall Surfaces

The key to successful vinyl siding application is proper preparation of the nailing surface. It is essential that you work over a smooth nailing surface. The more level and even the wall surface, the better the ﬁnished installation will look.

The steps involved in preparation differ for new homes and old, so choose the instructions (page 28 to 33) that pertain to your project.

Installing the ﬁrst course

It’s important to work with care and planning as you install siding panels. This is especially true when you’re installing the ﬁrst course of siding. (See pages 33 to 35 for fastening methods.)

For best results, follow these guidelines:

room for expansion

lock panel to starter strip

The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap away from areas where people normally walk or gather. For example, on the front wall, work from the corners to the entrance door (so overlaps face away from door).

On side walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the best appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout installation.

NOTE: Lap appearance is also improved when you avoid using panels less than 3' long.

Slide the ﬁrst panel into the cornerpost recess. Leave room for expansion (see page 35-36 for spacing requirements).

Hook the bottom lock of the panel into the interlock bead of the starter strip by applying upward pressure.

Before nailing, double check to make certain you’ve locked the panel along its entire length. A slight upward pressure may be required to snap the interlock securely. Don’t force the lock too tightly, however. You may distort your laps. Nail properly. Also, make certain the panel can slide freely. Start at the center of the panel and work out.

lock not fully engaged lock fully engaged

Install the remaining starter course panels, overlapping panel ends (see pages 35-36 for overlapping requirements). The last nail should be at least 4" from the end of the panel to allow for a neat lap.

Remember to leave room for expansion when ﬁtting panels into remaining inside and outside cornerposts.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Transitioning from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding

To transition from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding:

sheathing

starter strip or J-channel

flashing

mortar

• Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick, stone, or stucco.

Caulk the ﬂashing, and make sure a drip cap is in place.

• Use J-channel or starter strip to receive the siding when

installing horizontal siding, If you use starter strip, leave 3/8" clearance so that the siding can engage securely.

• When installing vertical siding, use J-channel to receive

the siding.

Installing remaining courses

To ensure best appearance, position the laps to avoid unsightly joint patterns. The illustration at left shows a well-planned staggering of panel joints. Follow these guidelines:

• Separate joints by at least two courses.

• Avoid joints above and below windows.

• Leave at least 3' separating joints on successive courses.

• Use short cutoff lengths for ﬁtting at narrow openings

between windows.

• Follow the planned pattern when applying the next

courses of siding.

1/4"

Fitting under windows

You’ll probably have to cut panels to ﬁt under windows.

To make this task easier, plan panel positioning as shown at left so a single panel extends beyond both sides of window opening. Follow these steps to measure and cut panels:

Hold the panel in place and mark the width of the window opening. Add 1/4"–3/8" to both ends to allow for expansion. The resulting marks show the location of vertical cuts. Extend the marks onto the panel using a square.

Create a template for the horizontal cut using a small piece of scrap siding. Lock this piece into the lower panel and mark 1/4" below the sill height. This provides clearance for undersill trim. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the window. (You can’t assume windows will be perfectly level.)

Transfer the marks from the template to the panel. Connect marks using a straightedge.

Cut the panel, using tin snips to make vertical cuts and a utility knife to make the horizontal cut.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Install panel

window

J-channel

utility trim

horizontal siding

dual undersill trim

installing trimmed panels

with dual undersill trim

If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring under the sill as described on pages 31 to 32.

NOTE: You can eliminate this step by using dual undersill trim. This trim has two receiving channels. Use the inner channel if you’ve cut the siding panel near the locking edge. Use the outer channel if the cut has been made near the butt edge.

Use a snap lock punch to raise tab faces on the outside of the panel. Punch out a tab every 6".

Push the horizontal edge of the cut into utility trim. Slide vertical edges of cut into J-channels at window sides. Make certain the installed panel locks into the panel below.

Fitting over windows and doors

The procedure for cutting panels for installation over windows and doors is similar to that explained earlier.

If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring above the window or door as explained on pages 31 to 32.

Drop the panel into position, making certain it ﬁts into the undersill trim and J-channel at the top and J-channel at the sides. Interlock the panel with the siding panels below.

Fitting at narrow openings between windows

To simplify installation in areas such as that shown in the illustration, install J-channel on both sides of opening.

Bow the panel toward you and slip it into the channel.

If the area is very narrow, leave one J-channel unnailed except at the lowest point (as shown). Bend this channel out slightly to insert panel. When the panel is in place and nailed, nail the J-channel immediately above the panel and repeat the procedure. Be sure to leave adequate tolerances for expansion and contraction.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Fitting at gable ends

Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. Use this pattern to guide the cutting of panels to ﬁt gable ends.

To make pattern:

Lock a short piece of siding into the panel gable starter course as shown in the illustration.

Hold a second piece of siding against the J-channel at the slope.

Run a pencil along edge of this piece, transferring the slope angle to the ﬁrst piece of siding.

Cut along the line using a power saw or tin snips. Use the resulting pattern to mark siding panels before cutting.

colored aluminum finish nail

NOTE: Double-check the angle on the pattern at every course. If necessary, cut a new pattern.

To install cut panels:

Slip the angled end of the panel into J-channel along the gable edge. Leave space for expansion.

Interlock with the siding panel below.

If necessary to securely fasten the last panel at the gable peak, face nail as shown in illustration. This is the only place you will face nail. Use a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" aluminum nail with painted head.

NOTE: Do not cover louvers in gables.

Fitting under sofﬁt

When you reach the last course of siding, you will probably have to rip cut panels lengthwise to ﬁt under sofﬁt.

NOTE: If necessary to ensure proper panel slope angle, make certain to furr out this area.

To cut and install this last course:

distance minus 1/4"

Install J-channel and undersill trim or dual undersill trim.

Measure from the sofﬁt to the base of upper lock on the previous course of panels. Subtract 1/4". Mark this dimension on the panel to be cut, taking the measurement from the bottom edge of panel. For a more precise cut, repeat this procedure at several other points along the span to be covered by the panel.

Using a square or straightedge, draw a pencil line connecting these points. Then score along the line with a utility knife. Bend the panel back and forth until it snaps. Use a snap lock punch to create tabs on the outside face of the panel, 1/4" below the cut edge. Space tabs every 6".

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4" from edge

1/4"

To install, lock the bottom of the cut panel into the panel below. Push the top edge into J-channel or undersill trim. Tabs will catch in the trim and hold the panel ﬁrmly in place.

NOTE: Since you will not nail this last course, it is important that the tabs ﬁt properly in the trim to provide support while allowing movement for expansion.

Finishing the top course

To ﬁnish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to the top of the wall under the eave or sofﬁt. Trim the top panel to within 1/4" of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 1/4" from the trimmed edge of the siding panel, 16" apart. Nail off the top course, and snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver. An alternate method is to use J-channel and furring strips.

cornice molding

light block mounting bracket

1/4"

1/4" to 3/8" for expansion

Completion

Attaching objects to siding

All external products (downspouts, shutters, and lights, for example) are attached to walls after you’ve applied the vinyl siding.

NOTE: All external ﬁxtures must be attached to a solid backing (such as 3/4" exterior grade plywood) to provide a secure mounting surface. Never attach a ﬁxture directly to vinyl siding.

When installing external products, you must allow for expansion and contraction of siding.

You can allow for this movement in two ways:

The most convenient way to attach light ﬁxtures is with light blocks. Because they contain receiving channels to hold siding panels, light blocks provide a simple way to allow for expansion.

When attaching other ﬁxtures, drill holes in the siding 1/4" larger than the diameter of screws, bolts, or nails being used to fasten objects. This provides adequate clearance so the siding can move freely underneath attached objects. When attaching objects, do not fasten tightly. It is also recommended that you apply caulk around the screws.

Fitting at light blocks

When cutting panels to ﬁt at a light block, be sure to allow for expansion.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Shutter Installation

The ideal application (a) has a joint between the two shutters where the shutters are secured to the home. In this way, the siding panel is not “hard nailed” between the two shutters and the siding is allowed free movement.

When there is no joint between the shutters and when the shutters are secured to the home (b), the shutters’ fasteners do not allow the siding panel to move. The siding panel then fails to perform because it cannot expand or contract with the temperature changes.

To prevent this, enlarge the holes in the siding for securing the shutter—the hole should be 1/4" larger than the shank of the fastener.

If possible, stagger the screws securing the shutter so that they do not line up on the same panel. It is also a good idea to apply caulk around the screws.

NOTE: See page 76 for ﬁtting siding into narrow openings.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Section 8 – Installing Vertical Siding (Including Board & Batten)

Preparing Wall Surfaces

upper edge of topmost nailing slot

nail to furring

1" x 3" furring

12"

For the most part, the wall preparation instructions given for horizontal siding also apply to vertical applications. The key requirement, of course, is that you start with a smooth, level and rigid substrate (plywood, wood composite, rigid foam or ﬁber sheathing).

NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or studs. Always check with your local building code ofﬁcial.

With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an extra step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical edge of the siding panel. The need for this added step depends on the type of substrate used and the nature of the construction project.

With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into plywood and wood composite substrates at any point as long as you do not exceed 12" on center.

In new construction using rigid foam or ﬁber sheathing, you must install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs before applying sheathing. Use 1" x 3" wood furring positioned 12" o.c.

1/2" foam sheathing

always position topmost nail in topmost full nail slot with vertical applications

12"

When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply rigid foam or ﬁber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create a level surface.

When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular wall surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level surface; then apply rigid foam or ﬁber sheathing. See “Tips for applying wood furring” on pages 31 to 32 and “Applying over stucco” on page 32. When reviewing the illustrations for those sections, remember that furring strips must be applied horizontally.

Marking a base line

The procedure is virtually the same as that described earlier. However, instead of snapping a chalk line 2-1/4" above the low point, snap it 1" above the low point.

NOTE: When installing vertical siding in high wind areas, position the fasteners at the top two nail slots of the panel.

See pages 130 to 132 for installing CedarBoards Insulated Vertical siding.

center nail in slots

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1A 1B

Cornerposts

Install outside and inside cornerposts using dimensions and procedures described on pages 38–41.

NOTE: Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do not install a starter strip for vertical siding.

Top and Bottom J-Channel

Snap a base line 1" above the low part of the house. Apply J-channel along the top and bottom of the walls to receive the siding panels. Install the bottom J-channel (illustration 1A). Overlap J-channels 3/4". To do this, cut out a 1" section of the nailing ﬂange and face return (see illustration 2).

If you prefer to use drip ﬂashing with the J-channel along the bottom of the wall, fabricate the lengths you’ll need from aluminum coil stock of a color to match the siding (see illustration 1B).

Illustration 2

soffit

J-channel

vertical siding

F-channel

soffit

J-channel

vertical siding

3/4"

Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion. When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position the J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8" (1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).

Sofﬁt

If you’re going to install sofﬁt, you may want to install the receiving channels for the sofﬁt at this point.

The illustrations show alternative approaches for installing siding and sofﬁt receiving channels.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

If a wall requires more than one course of siding, you can proceed in one of three ways:

vertical siding

J-channel

flashing

J-channel

vertical siding

J-channel

drip cap

vertical siding

a b

Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back, at the joint between the two courses (illustration a).

Use a combination of one length of J-channel and one length of drip cap (illustration b).

Use a double channel lineal and ﬂashing where required.

If using J-Channel

Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to the length of the lower panel plus an allowance for expansion. For example, if the lower panel is 144" long and you’re adding 1/2" for expansion (because the temperature is above 40°F), you strike a line 144-1/2" from the bottom J-channel. Nail inverted J-channel along this line to receive panels from below. Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap the J-channels 3/4".

Prepare for the second course by applying head ﬂashing above the just-installed J-channel. Then nail J-channel over the ﬂashing to receive the upper panel.

NOTE: Some installers prefer to use formed aluminum ﬂashing in place of vinyl drip cap as the receiving channel for the lower panel. This is also an acceptable approach.

double channel lineal

chalk line

J-Channel at Gable Ends

Follow the procedure described earlier under the section “Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 28.

If using double channel lineal: Measure the length of the lower panel, then add an allowance for expansion. Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to your measurement. Position the lineal so the interior peak of the lower channel runs along the chalk line. Leave a minimum 3/8" gap between lineal and cornerposts when the ambient temperature is higher than 40°F. When the ambient temperature is below 40°F, leave a 1/2" gap.

If necessary, overlap lineals 1-1/4".

Allow for 1/3 of

expansion

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Wall Panels

Follow the instructions described earlier under the section “Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 28.

Plan the panel layout

Correctly installed vertical siding should have a balanced appearance. This means that if you were to draw a vertical line down the center point of a wall, you’d have an equal number of panels to the right and left. If you had to trim panels to ﬁt, the end-most panels would be of identical width.

To create this pleasing appearance, divide the space to be covered by a partial panel over both ends of a wall. For example, if a wall required 25 full panels plus 10", you would rip cut two 5" lengths of panel to create the end pieces.

Expansion and contraction

In a vertical siding installation, most of the expansion is downward. So instead of allowing equal space for expansion at both ends of a vertical panel, leave more space at the lower end: allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top of a panel and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.

furring

Allow for 2/3 of

expansion

cornerpost

undersill

trim

snap locks

For example, if the total expansion equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"), allow 1/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom. If the total expansion equals 1/2" (1/4" + 1/4"), allow 3/16" at the top and 5/16" at the bottom.

NOTE: Always position top most nail at the top of the top most full nail slot (1a). Center the remaining nails in the slots (1b). When installing siding or accessories vertically, make sure the bottom of the panel can expand downward without interference.

Cut the ﬁrst of the partial panels (if partial panels are necessary). Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem edge. Rip cut the panel. Do not cut off the nail hem. Use a snap lock punch to create locking tabs along the cut edge. Space the tabs 6" apart.

Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost, provide additional support at the cut edge to compensate for the locking channel that was trimmed off.

To do this, insert furring into the channel of the outside cornerpost and nail it to the substrate. After furring, insert a length of undersill trim into the cornerpost and nail it to the furring. Finally, slide the cut edge of the panel into the undersill trim, making sure to engage the snap locks (see illustration).

panel

Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb. Nail every 12". Follow the same nailing procedures described for horizontal siding.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel, then nail every 12". Continue with succeeding panels.

When necessary, cut panels to ﬁt around doors and windows. When marking the cut, remember to allow for expansion.

The method used to install panels around doors and windows is determined by the need to cut a panel and the position of that cut. If a cut was made next to a remaining V-groove, insert the panel into the J-channel. If a cut removes the support provided by a V-groove, use the procedure described above to provide support for the trimmed edge.

To ﬁnish the ﬁrst course of a wall, cut the ﬁnal panel to size and install it in an outside cornerpost, using the method described above.

NOTE: The cutting and supporting procedure described above is also used when ﬁtting panels into inside cornerposts.

Installing Gable End Panels

plumb line

When installing vertical or Board & Batten siding on a gable end wall, you should try to create a balanced appearance.

There are two ways to do this:

You can start from the center of the wall and work toward the sides. Begin by ﬁnding the center point of the wall (beneath the peak) and draw a plumb line. Nail two lengths of J-channel, back to back, along this line. Be sure to ﬂash underneath the J-channel to help prevent water damage due to water seepage between the J-channels. Cut the upper end of the ﬁrst panel to the proper height and slope. Remember to allow for expansion.

NOTE: To guide the cutting of the upper end of the panel, make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. (See page 67.)

Insert the panel into the J-channel along the gable slope.

Use a level to make certain the panel is plumb. Nail every 12". Continue cutting and installing panels. Then repeat the procedure on the remaining half of the gable end.

If you want to work from one end of the wall to the other, begin by centering a panel under the center of the peak. Mark the position of the panel on the wall, then measure the distance from the left (or right) cornerpost to mark for the left (or right) edge of the center panel.

If you need a partial panel, cut it and install it at the cornerpost, following the procedure described on page 83. Cut the upper end of the panels to proper height and slope, following the procedure described above. Remember to allow for expansion.

Section 9 — Porch Ceilings, Sofﬁt, Fascia

Requirements for Proper Sofﬁt Ventilation

Proper attic ventilation is important for any home. The 2009 International Building Code (IBC) Section 1203 Ventilation furnishes a basic guide for determining proper ventilation for any home. The information provided here may under certain circumstances not result in enough ventilation. Therefore, the calculation provided should be used as a guide only.

The IBC guideline requires that any attic or space between the top ﬂoor, ceiling and roof must be ventilated. It requires one square foot of ventilation area for every 150 square feet of attic space.

If a vapor retarder of less than one perm has been installed on the warm side of the ceiling or if at least 50% of the required ventilating area has already been provided by gable and vents or ridge vents, you need add only one-half of the ventilation area that would otherwise be required. The requirement would then be one square foot of ventilation area for every 300 sq. ft. of attic space.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

2'-0"

40'-0"

ridge eave

30'-0"

How to determine sofﬁt ventilation

1. Determine the local code requirement for total attic ventilation.

1:150 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of attic space.

1:3 00 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 300 sq. ft. of attic space, if a vapor barrier having a transmission rate not exceeding 1 perm is installed on the warm side of the ceiling.

2. Determine the total area of the attic (sq. ft.) to be ventilated.

40 ft. x 30 ft. = 1,200 sq. ft.

3. Total free area of ventilation required for the attic.

1,200 sq. ft. / 150 = 8.0 sq. ft.

4. Convert square feet into square inches (sq. in.).

8.0 sq. ft. x 144 = 1,152 sq. in.

5. Location of vents.

50% at ridge, roof vent or gable vent = 1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.

50% at sofﬁt/eave = 1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.

6. Total sofﬁt ventilation area required.

Area of the sofﬁt available for ventilation: 80 lineal ft. x 2 ft. sofﬁt depth = 160 sq. ft. Ventilation area required per sq. ft. of sofﬁt = 576 sq. in. /160 sq. ft. = 3.6 sq. in. /sq. ft.

7. Sofﬁt product selection.

Compare the sofﬁt ventilation area required to the manufacturer’s sofﬁt product literature.

8. If the roof pitch is 9/12 or higher, add 30% more ventilation to

accommodate the higher volume of air moving through the air.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Porch Ceilings

The procedures used to install a porch ceiling are in many ways similar to those used to install sofﬁt. These procedures vary slightly, depending on whether you’re working on new construction or a remodeling project.

New construction projects

Begin by installing receiving channels on all four sides of the porch. If you are using F-channel, nail it to existing walls. If you are using J-channel, you will have to install a nailing base.

If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light ﬁxtures, install them to adequate backing.

Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even balance or to align with adjacent work. If the ceiling panels will run parallel to the ceiling joists, you will have to install additional 1" x 3" wood furring nailing strips. Install these nailing strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists, nailing according to the schedule below.

Invert J-channels and nail them to the underside of the wood strips along the perimeter of the ceiling area.

Install the ﬁrst panel into the channels at one end of the porch. Be sure to leave room for expansion. Nail according to the schedule below, positioning the nails in the centers of slots. Do not nail tightly. Install remaining panels. When cutting the last panel of the ﬁrst course, be sure to allow room for expansion.

Nailing schedule for sofﬁt

For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a double channel lineal.

If necessary, rip cut the ﬁnal panel and use a snap lock punch to create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility trim and insert the panel into the receiving channel.

NOTE: For best results, ensure you have adequate ventilation.

Beaded T2 Fasten 8" to 12"

Ironmax Fasten every 16" to 24" (as allowed by local building code)

T3-1/3 Fasten every 16" to 24" (as allowed by local building code)

All other CertainTeed Fasten every 16" sofﬁt panels

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Remodeling projects

Check to be sure the existing ceiling can serve as a solid nailing base. If the existing ceiling is solid, remove all existing moldings and ﬁxtures from the ceiling and begin by nailing inverted J-channel along the perimeter of the ceiling area.

If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light ﬁxtures, install them to adequate backing.

Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even balance or to align with adjacent work.

Use the existing ceiling as a nailing base for the panels. Install the ﬁrst panel into the channels at one end of the porch. Be sure to leave room for expansion. Follow the nailing schedule on the previous page, positioning the nails in the centers of the slots. Do not nail tightly. Install the remaining panels. When cutting the last panel of the ﬁrst course, be sure to allow room for expansion.

For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a double channel lineal.

If necessary, rip cut the ﬁnal panel and use a snap lock punch to create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility trim and insert the panel into the receiving channel.

If the existing ceiling is not solid, install nailing strips to provide a secure nailing base. Then install J-channel.

If the ceiling panels will run parallel to the ceiling joists, you will have to install additional 1" x 3" wood furring nailing strips. Install these nailing strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists, placing a strip every 1" to 16".

Invert the J-channel and nail it to the underside of wood strips along the perimeter of the ceiling area.

Install the panels as explained above.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

fascia cap or coil stock

soffit

J-channel

soffit

F-channel

16" to 24"

F-channel

16" to 24"

open rafter

F-channel

open truss

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Sofﬁt

You can use solid vinyl panels or perforated vinyl panels for sofﬁt installations. Perforated panels provide ventilation, which helps to reduce heat buildup in the summer and ice dams in the winter. In buildings with roof ridge vents, you should install ventilated sofﬁt. Check local building codes to determine the amount of ventilation required. In high windload areas, you should also check local building codes to determine if the application methods that are required differ from those described below.

The procedure used to install sofﬁt depends on the construction of the eaves:

• Open eaves—eaves with exposed rafters or trusses—are

typical of new construction. You will also have to use open eave installation procedures if you have to remove damaged sofﬁt at a remodeling project.

• Enclosed eaves—eaves with sofﬁt in place—are typical of

remodeling projects.

Installation over open eaves

The ﬁrst step in installing sofﬁt is to install the proper receiving channels. You have several options for receiving channels. You can use accessories such as F-channel or J-channel, or you can make channels using coil stock. The best approach is to select a method that works most effectively with the construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine ﬁgures 1 to 4 and ﬁnd the one that most closely resembles the construction methods used on your particular project.

soffit

16" to 24"

soffit

J-channel

16" to 24"

To determine the maximum permissible span, consult page 89 and local building codes.

add nailing strips

framing

Fig. 4

add

If no F-channel is available, J-channel can be modiﬁed to create F-channel. Simply cut slots in the nail ﬂange area where it would be nailed to the wall. After cutting the nail ﬂange, bend the ﬂange back and nail it to the wall. When installing Beaded T2" panels, use 3/8" H-bar or 3/8" J-channel.

Installing receiving channels

Install the receiving channels following the details shown in ﬁgures 1 to 4. Nail the channels every 16", positioning the nail in the center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.

If the eave span is greater than 16", you will have to install nailing strips (as shown in ﬁgure 4) and install the receiving channels on the nailing strips.

If the sofﬁt will turn a corner, cut and install the channel so there is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If you don’t have the proper receiver for the sofﬁt, you can modify J-channel to create an F-receiver. Simply cut slots in the nail ﬂange area where the receiver will be nailed to the wall, bend back the ﬂange, and nail the ﬂange to the wall.

Installing sofﬁt

Measure from the wall to the fascia board. Then subtract 1/2" to allow for expansion. Mark this dimension on a sofﬁt panel and cross cut the panel using a power circular saw with a reversed ﬁne-tooth blade. Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw through the vinyl.

Insert the panel into the channel on the wall, then into the channel at the fascia board. You may have to ﬂex the panel slightly to insert it into the second channel. Make certain the panel is perpendicular to the wall, then nail. Depending on the installation method you’re using, you’ll nail either to a nailing strip or to the fascia board.

Nailing schedule for sofﬁt

fascia

fascia cap or coil stock

nail into slot

soffit panels

nail into “v”

Beaded T2 Fasten 8" to 12"

All other CertainTeed sofﬁt panels

Fasten every 16" to 24" (as allowed by local building code)

If you’re nailing to the fascia board, use small-headed nails. Drive the nail through the nail ﬂange and “V” groove.

This is one of the rare instances when face nailing is permissible. Once a sofﬁt panel is face-nailed, it will expand only in one direction—in this case, toward the receiving channel. Be sure to leave space for the full expansion allowance in the receiving channel.

If you’re using a nailing strip, do not nail tightly—allow movement for expansion.

Continue installing the panels by locking and nailing the sofﬁt in place. Make certain sofﬁt panels are fully locked along their entire length.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

soffit H-bar

fascia

miter soffit panels

Turning a corner

To turn a corner, measure from the channel at the wall corner to the channel at the corner of the fascia board. Subtract 1/4" for expansion. If necessary, install nailing strips to provide backing for the lineal. Cut and install sofﬁt double channel lineal or H-bar. Miter the corner sofﬁt panels and install as described earlier.

Completing the installation

To complete the installation, apply utility trim and fasten aluminum fascia cap or formed aluminum coil stock with painted trim nails. If you must face nail fascia, drill holes for the trim nails to allow for expansion and to reduce denting of the aluminum.

fascia cap or coil stock

enclosed eave

soffit J-channel

enclosed eave

J-channel

nailing strip

soffit

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Installation over enclosed eaves

If the existing sofﬁt is rotted or damaged, it’s best to remove it completely before installing vinyl sofﬁt. Then use the instructions for open eaves.

If you’re installing perforated sofﬁt panels and the existing sofﬁt doesn’t have openings for ventilation, cut an adequate number of openings. Then complete the installation as described for open eaves.

The procedure used to install sofﬁt over an enclosed eave is almost identical to that used for an open eave. The major difference is the installation of the J-channel. Determine the method you’ll use to install sofﬁt at the fascia board (see ﬁgures 5 and 6). When installing J-channel at either the wall or the fascia board, nail the J-Channel every 12" to 16".

Turning a corner

If the sofﬁt is to turn a corner, cut and install J-channel so there is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls and adjoining fascia boards. Miter the corner sofﬁt panels and install as described earlier.

fascia cap or coil stock

F-channel

open rafter

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Triple 3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent and Perimeter Sofﬁt

Installation over open eaves

In most situations, T3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent and Perimeter Sofﬁt should be installed like our standard sofﬁt products. However, when it is installed over open eaves, follow these installation techniques.

Install receiving channels

There are two ways to install receiving channels for sofﬁt. The best approach is to select a method that works most effectively with the construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine the illustrations, and ﬁnd the one that most closely resembles the construction methods on your particular project.

Use either 3/4" J-channel or 3/4" F-channel, or make receiving channels using coil stock. Install the receiving channels following the details shown in the illustrations.

soffit

J-channel

add framing

Nail the channels every 12" to 16", positioning the nail in the center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.

NOTE: If you are concerned about excessive insect inﬁltration with InvisiVent or Perimeter Sofﬁt, cover the opening with corrosion-resistant mesh or other screening before installing the sofﬁt.

Install sofﬁt

Nail the sofﬁt every 16" or 24", depending upon local building codes and stud spacing. T3-1/3 sofﬁt will span up to 24" without additional nailing strips.

Installation over existing sofﬁt

When installing InvisiVent or Perimeter Sofﬁt over an existing solid wood sofﬁt, you must cut openings into the existing sofﬁt to provide adequate airﬂow through the sofﬁt. The goal is to have at least 9 square inches of net free air per lineal foot of sofﬁt. Removing a center portion of the existing sofﬁt will provide the desired airﬂow.

Using a saw, cut along the length of the existing sofﬁt. Leave 2" to 3" from both the wall and the fascia so that you will have enough wood surface to securely fasten the sofﬁt.

Remove the center portion of the existing sofﬁt.

Install the sofﬁt as described above.

NOTE: Leaving solid areas of existing sofﬁt intact reduces ventilation and must be considered when calculating total ventilation.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Vinyl Fascia

vinyl fascia cap

undersill trim

nail in slot opening

fascia board

The wooden fascia board that encloses the front of an eave also needs protection from the weather. To provide this protection, you can install vinyl or aluminum fascia panels.

There are two procedures for installing vinyl fascia panels—one for installations that include sofﬁt, one for installations without sofﬁt.

Installations without sofﬁt

Nail undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.

Before installing the panel, create tabs along the top edge using a snap lock punch.

Hook the bottom of the fascia panel under the bottom of the fascia board. Push the top edge into the undersill trim, as shown, or behind drip edge.

Secure the panel to the bottom of the fascia board with white trim nails. Fasten at nail slot openings only (see illustration).

Do not face nail fascia panel.

When overlapping fascia panels, ﬁrst cut a notch in the underlying panel. The notch should be 1/8" deep by 1-1/2" long. Slip the notched panel into the adjacent panel (see illustration).

1/8"

1-1/2"

3/4"

To turn a corner, you must ﬁrst fabricate a corner piece.

Cut a length of fascia panel so it extends 6" beyond the corner. Mark a vertical line to indicate the position of the corner. Then cut a 90° V-notch centered on the vertical line. Score it along the vertical line and fold. Finally, create tabs along the upper edge with a snap lock punch. The tabs must be raised on the outside face of the panel.

Fit the panel on the corner, making sure to overlap the preceding panel.

snap lock

punch

undersill trim

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

For installations that include sofﬁt

Nail the undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board. Then nail F-channel along the bottom outside surface of the fascia board (shown).

The fascia panel will have to be rip cut to ﬁt over the fascia board and F-channel. To determine the width of the panel, measure from the slot in the undersill trim to the bottom of the F-channel. Deduct 1/4" and cut (shown).

Use a snap lock punch to create tabs 1/8" below cut edge. Punch tabs every 6", with the tabs raised on the outside face of the panel.

Install the panel by hooking the bottom of the fascia panel under the F-channel and pushing the top into the undersill trim (shown).

Continue to install the fascia as described on the previous page.

1/8"

fascia board

F-channel

measure minus 1/4"

Aluminum fascia

The techniques used to install aluminum fascia panels are similar to those used with vinyl—with three exceptions.

There is no special undersill trim to use with aluminum fascia. Aluminum fascia is made without nail slots, so you have to pay attention to proper nailing techniques. And corners are handled differently.

Install drip edge, gutter, or all-purpose trim along the top of the fascia board to receive the top edge of the fascia panel.

Slip the fascia panel in place. Then nail the underside of the panel. Nail every 24", keeping the nails lined up with the sofﬁt V-grooves.

For best appearance, ﬁrst drill a slightly oversized hole. Nail the fascia with painted trim nails, using a light touch.

At the outside corners, bend a 1" ﬂange at a 90° angle so it turns the corner. Then cut the overlapping fascia at a 45° angle. Position the panels and nail.

NOTE: If you need a piece of nonstandard size fascia, use a portable brake to form it from aluminum trim sheet. Install and nail using the same techniques you used with standard fascia panels.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Section 10 — Installing Speciﬁc CertainTeed Products

Cedar Impressions® Shingles and Shakes

Important

These products are not designed for roof application. They are designed solely for installation on vertical surfaces.

The panels must be installed with nails over a solid substrate with nail holding strength such as plywood, OSB, or existing wood siding (minimum 7/16" thick). These products cannot be installed with staples.

NOTE: Each panel must be nailed through the round hole in the center of the nail hem to control the direction of normal expansion and contraction. Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction. If you are installing a partial panel and the center nail hole has been cut off, drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panels and nail through it.

When cutting Cedar Impressions siding, use a 40-tip carbide blade mounted in the standard (not backwards) position. Using this technique will reduce burring; it does not gum up the saw; and the blade stays sharp longer.

Drainage Channels

Some building codes require that Cedar Impressions panels be installed so that there is drainage space behind the panel. This space will allow moisture to escape from the panels while preventing water intrusion from the exterior. Information about installing drainage channels is available at www.certainteed.com

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

As with any plastic siding, Cedar Impressions D7" Perfection Shingles, T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles, D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes, and D7" Straight-Edge Rough Split Shakes expand and contract with changes in temperature. For this reason, it is important that you space the panels according to the panel temperature at the time of installation. Failure to provide the proper spacing according to these temperature ranges may result in gaps that are too large or too small, thereby creating the potential for side locking tabs disengaging, panels distorting, or buckling. Spacing of panels previously installed at a different temperature does not require adjustment.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If two temperature cells on the PanelThermometer show a color change, use the brighter color as the indicator.

Each panel has a patented PanelThermometer™ that displays panel temperature and indicator lines that serve as guides for proper spacing between the panels. The PanelThermometer is located on the upper right-hand corner of the panel; the indicator lines are on the upper left-hand corner.

Note that the panel temperature may change throughout the day. Space the panels according to the panel temperature at the time of installation.

The cells on the PanelThermometer will change color to indicate the temperature of the panel.

panel temperature indicator lines

If the brightest cell is between the numbered temperature cells, position the panel between the corresponding temperature indicator lines. Example: If the Panel-Thermometer reads 65, align the second panel to the 65 temperature indicator line on the ﬁrst panel. If the cell between the 65 and 100 is brighter, position the panel between the 65 and 100 temperature indicator lines.

Panel Thermometer Temperature Indicator Lines

0 Set to 0 line

30 Set to 30 line

65 Set to 65 line

100 Set to 100 line

130 Set to 130 line

160 Butt panels tight

“A”

D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter.

If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A,” which is located above the nail slots.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4"

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.

Fasten the panel to the wall by ﬁrst nailing through the round center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one at each of the QuickReference™ Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

quick reference nail mark indicators

1/4"

Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and next to the ﬁrst panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the starter strip and the side tabs of the ﬁrst panel. Space the second panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding temperature indicator lines.

Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through both panels’ nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest of the panel as described earlier.

Continue to install the remaining panels of the ﬁrst course as described earlier.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

Second course

Cut off the right side of the D7 shingle at indicator “B,” which is located above the nail slots. Cut straight through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail

the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.

drill 3/16" dia. hole at midpoint

of remaining panel

“B”

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to ﬁt under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

bottom of receiving channel

measure from the locking tab to the bottom of the receiving channel and add 1/8

bottom of locking tab

back side of panel to be cut

bottom of return leg

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to ﬁt over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the panel to this dimension.

Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost

If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding panel 3” from the edge of the corner. Lock the ﬁrst corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

Cut off the top shingle and cut through to form a straight edge

“A”

1/4"

NOTE: We recommend that your complete the ﬁrst wall before installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.

T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

See pages 94 to 95.

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter Strip. If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerposts, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting the top two shingles so they are ﬂush with the bottom shingle.

Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A,” which is located above the nail slots.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

quick reference nail mark indicators

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

1/4"

drill 3/16" diameter hole at midpoint of remaining panel

“B”

Continue installing the rest of the panel as described above.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

Second course

Cut off the right side of the T5 shingle at indicator “B,” which is located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerposts

If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding panel 3" from the edge of the corner. Lock the ﬁrst corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

NOTE: We recommend that your complete the ﬁrst wall before installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.

Installing under a window or opening

bottom of receiving channel

measure from the locking tab to the bottom of the receiving channel and add 1/8

bottom of locking tab

back side of panel to be cut

bottom of return leg

Installing over a window or opening

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

If you are installing cornice molding with Mitered Cornerposts, review the instructions for installing Cornice Cap with Mitered Cornerpost (page 106 to 107).

Craftsman CTS205 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual