Finned Shotgun Slug Swage Kit
The finned hollow cavity shotgun slug is
formed in three steps, using a CSW-1-H
core swage, CS-1-H core seater, and
PF-1-H point form die. An ejector frame is used,
with special ejecting external punch and punch holder,
to free the finned slug from the final punch. The usual
FPH-1-H floating punch holder is NOT used in the final
operation of forming the point. It can be used in the first two
steps.
The 12-gauge set is designed to make slugs from 1.125 to
1.375 ounces. Heavier slugs are not recommended. Never
attempt to make a slug lighter than 1.125 ounces as it will
cause the destrution of the dies and punches. If a die or
punch is damaged, all of the parts associated with the die
must be returned for hand fitting. Modifications to the slug
design will require return of the entire set along with the
ejectors and accessories.
STEP 1. Make pure lead (Bhn 5 hardness) cores. For 12gauge, these would be approximately .70-inch diameter by
.50-inch long. Use clean lead: reclaimed lead may contain
grit and alloys that will destroy the punches and dies. Cores
can be cast 3 at a time in a Corbin CM-3 Core Mould,
available for 10, 12, and 20 gauge as well as other sizes.
The cores must weigh approximately 1.25 to 1.375 ounces
for 12-gauge, and .75 to .875 ounces for 20-gauge. Lighter
weights will destroy the punches.
STEP 2. Swage the lead cores. In a 12-gauge, this will
require approximately 1,500 psi on the Hydro-Press gauge.
In 20-gauge, the pressure should be about 1,200 psi. Use
STEP 3. Change to the CORE SEAT DIE
(CS-1-H) and punch, and form the fins on the
conical end of the slug. This uses approximately
the same gauge pressure as the first step. The
external (top) punch aligns itself in the
cavity of the slug. Raise the ram
slightly, so the preformed core can
be inserted easily into the cavity of the
slotted punch. Do not press the slug into
the die under power without first
starting in this way or the slotted
punch may be
broken.
Lubricate the
slug, and put it
into the die
with the conical end down. The internal punch is equpped
with an ejector rod to push the slug clear of the fins on the
down stroke. Raise the press ram and hold the pressure on
the slug for two seconds by keeping the UP button depressed. Lower the ram slightly and then raise it again to
swage a second time. This uses lower pressure than trying
to form completely in one pass. Lower the ram to eject the
slug.
If the slug sticks in the punch, place a small piece of lead
wire in the cavity of the slug to increase the volume of lead.
Raise the ram so that you can see the ejector punch, which
passes through the fin punch. Make sure this ejector punch
is pulled down, out of the lead (raise the ram enough so you
can use a wood, brass, or plastic stick to push this punch
down if it is stuck in the up position). The end of the ejection
punch should be clear of the rectangular knock-out bar,
which passes through the slot in the press ram. Never
attempt to melt a stuck slug out of the punch, as this ruins
the temper of the tool steel punch.
the lightest pressure that will form the shape
completely. The lead cores must be lubricated
lightly. Too much lube will prevent cores from
forming fully, and too little will increase pressure and extrude excess lead. A bleed-off of
5-10 grains is correct. Attempting to bleed off
too much lead can break the die from excess
pressure. The correctly formed slug will have a
deep cavity on one end and a conical shape
on the other.
Lubricate the lead slug at each step with Corbin Swage
Lube. To make the lubricant thinner, you can dilute the
swage lube with castor oil, and simply dip the end of the slug
(with the fins) into it. The fins should be sharp and completely formed with points at the base. If they are not, check
for excess lube build-up, or particles of lead in the bottom of
the punch slots. Do NOT try to increase
the pressure and form the slug in one
pass: it will not form reliably and may
break the die. Swaging the slug twice
at lower pressure without ejecting
between
passes does
a much
better job.
STEP 4. Finish the slug in the
point forming die. The external punch has an ejector and
fits into a special punch holder
so that the ejector punch
projects from the top. An
optional ejection frame fits on
the press.
Do not tighten the screws at
first: instead, slide the two 5/
16-inch threaded rods down
through the two bronze
bushings in the top of the
press, with the longer
threaded ends up. Place a
5/16-18 nut on the lower ends of each rod, and screw the
rods into the L-brackets. Snug up the nuts against the top of
the L-brackets. Now the cap screws holding the L-brackets
can be tightened. The two rods should have a knock-out
plate mounted to their top. This plate has an adjusting screw
in the center of it.
With the ram
down to the
position where
the slug would be
ejected out of the
point forming die,
adjust the center
bolt in the knock-out plate so that it contacts the ejection
punch head, in the special punch holder. The spring loaded
knock-out plate will help prevent damage to the die if the
assembly is misadjusted, or if the bottom position sensor on
the press is not set correctly. The ejector frame must be set
up correctly to avoid damage.
Alternatively, the
ejector punch can
be tapped with a
plastic mallet to
eject the slug. The
ejection is in two
stages: first the slug
is automatically
ejected from the die,
and usually sticks in
the slots of the
external punch.
Then, the ejector
punch that projects
out the top of the
punch holder is
used to eject the
slug from the punch
itself.
Place the slug into the
slotted punch by hand,
then raise the press ram.
Never place the slug into
the point form die. The
fins must align with the
slots. A pressure of 500
psi is sufficient to form
the cavity into a round
shape. If the a slug is
used lighter than the
minimum specified
weight, the punch and
possibly the die will be
destroyed. The slotted
external punch is
provided with a combination stop collar and lock nut.
This holds the punch in the
punch holder, as well as
preventing the punch from
being driven too far into the
die.
Lower the ram. The finished
slug will usually stay in the
top punch. The ejection
frame will contact the
ejection punch and push the
slug out. Catch it as it falls.
To be safe, use a small box
or scoop instead of
your hands. This
way, if the ram
should accidently be
reversed your hands
are not in the way of
the moving die.
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