12. TO ADJUST THE LENGTH OF STITCH ............................................12
13. TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE NIPPLE .........................12
14. THE LOOPER .....................................................................................13
15. TO SET THE LOOPER .......................................................................14
16. TO ADJSUT THE NUMBER OF THE BRAIDING ..............................14
17. TO ADJUST THE TENSION OF THE BRAIDING ..............................15
18. RAY STTICH .......................................................................................15
19. PILE OR MOSS STITCH ....................................................................16
20. PARTS LIST .......................................................................................17~
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1. SPECIFICATIONS
Stitch specification : Single thread, chainstitch
Speed : 1500 stitches per minute
Feed : Universal feed movement
Stitch Length : Maximum 5 m/m
Presser foot lift : 7 m/m
Needle bar stroke : 14 m/m
Needle used : System 137 x 1(chainstitch)
137 *1 SM (Moss stitch)
Motor : 200W(1/4HP), Single or three phase, 4 poles, clutch
2. DESCRIPTION
Embroidery machine makes the braiding stitch and also can make the single
thread chainstitch, the tape attaching, the ray stitch and pile or moss stitch. It is
designed for ornamenting or embroidering ladies’ cloaks and suits, millinery,
uniforms, draperies, table cover, etc.
The read may be of cotton, wool, worsted, silk, metal and other threads of similar
adaptability. A large variety of fabrics can be embroidered, ranging from fine chiffon
to china silk and cloth.
The usual method of producing embroidered designs is to follow a pattern that
has been perforated, stamped or traced on the fabric, but with practice the operator
can produce embroidery designs without premarking the fabric.
3. SPEED
When first operating this machine, the best results can be obtained by running
the machine approximately 800 stitches per minute. The speed can be increased
as the operator becomes more proficient and nature of the work permits.
2
4. TO OIL THE MACHINE (Fig. 1, 2, 11 & 12)
To insure easy running and prevent unnecessary wear of the parts which are in
movable contact, the machine requires oiling.
Oil should be applied to the places designated by unlettered arrows in Fig.
1,2,11and 12.
3
Fig. 2 shows the arm cover removed for the purpose of oiling. This arm cover can
be removed after taking out thumb screw, Fig. 10. If the machine is used
continuously, oil should be applied at least once each day.
5. NIPPLES, NIPPLES AND THREAD (Fig. 3)
Needles for embroidery machine are system 137 x 1 and are available in sizes
from 1 to 12. These needles have hooks similar in appearance to those of hand
crochet needles.
The needle must be selected according to the thickness and the style of the
thread to be used. The thread must not only fill the opening of the hook in the
needle but must slide freely therein.
To correspond with the needle used in the machine a suitable nipple must be
selected, as the needle in forming the stitch has to operate through the nipple. The
4
needle must fit in the nipple and slide freely without side play. Nipples are available
in size numbers similar to those of the needles, and for general work the number of
the nipple should be the same as that of the needle.
The nipples for embroidery machine are available in the following kinds, as per
Fig. 3.
(a) : For chainstitch and moss stitch
(b) : For tape attaching
(c) : For braiding stitch and ray stitch
6. TO REMOVE, REPLACE AND SET NEEDLE AND NIPPLE (Fig. 4)
When it is necessary to change the needle and nipple on the machine, first select
another needle and corresponding nipple. Then lower the presser foot lifter (J),
loosen screw (B) and remove needle bar (A) and needle from top of machine.
Remove nipple holder (O), loosening screw by screwdriver.
Select the correct needle hole in needle plate (D).
NOTE: The needle hole should be slightly larger than the needle, so that the
5
needle, when laid around the needle, will have sufficient space to pass
without touching the sides of the needle hole.
Loosen thumb screw (L) and turn plate (D) until correct needle hole is in line with
needle, then tighten thumb screw (L).
Next, insert the selected nipple (N) into the lower part of nipple holder (O) and
tighten screw securely with the screwdriver, Insert the nipple holder (O) into the
nipple carrier (Fig. 3) and tighten screw securely. Screw selected needle into
needle bar (A) and tighten with pliers provided. Replace needle bar (A) down into
sleeve and adjust its height so that the fabric to be embroidered can just pass under
the point of the needle.
Be sure handle (K) is as far to the front as possible and that the hook of the
needle faces the front. Then tighten screw (B), which also should face the front.
NOTE: Do not tighten screw (B) except when needle bar (A) is in its place. If the
screw is tightened when needle bar (A) is not in its place, needle bar operating
collar is transformed and needle bar does not enter into the collar.
6
A. Needle bar
B. Needle bar operating collar set screw
C. Presser foot slide bar thumb screw
D. Needle plate
E. Tension regulating lever
F. Tension regulating plate
G. Tension complete
H. Tension bracket
I. Tension controller spring
J. Presser foot lifter
K. Stitch rotating hand lever handle
L. Needle plate thumb screw
M. End of looper shaft
N. Nipple
O. Nipple holder
P. Nipple carrier thumb screw
7. TO THREAD THE MACHINE (Figs. 5, 6 & 7)
1) For the thread (Figs. 5 & 6)
Place the cone of thread in a convenient position on the floor.
Three thread eyelets are furnished with the machine. These eyelets should be
fastened to the underside of the table as shown at (1), (2) and (3), Fig. 5. Eyelet (1)
should be located directly above the cone of thread.
Pass the thread up from the cone and through eyelets (1), (2) and (3), then
through hole (1), over between tension discs (5), through thread controller spring
(6). Turn handle (A), Fig. 6 to the front or slightly to the left, raise presser foot and
insert threading wire (B) in the forward hole (7) of needle plate. With the left hand,
catch thread on hook of threading wire (B) and draw wire and thread up through
hole needle plate. With the left hand, hold end of thread with a slight tension.
7
With the right hand, turn handle (A) straight to the left, having started the
machine, quickly bear down and up on handle (A) so the needle will pick up the
thread for one stitch. Keep handle (A) in same position and with the threading wire
(B), draw thread directly toward you, laying end of thread loosely on needle plate
after t comes up thread needle hole.
2) For the cord (Fig. 7)
Wind the cord
pulley. Place it on the cord spool bracket
bar
with the threading wire (large) and pass it below the end of nipple
on the cord spool , using the spool winder spindle on the
. Inter the cord into the top of needle
carrier 6, then through to the hole of the nipple
3) For the braid (Fig. 7)
Wind the braid
on the braid spool , using the spool winder spindle on the
pulley. Place it on the braid spool bracket
guide
the hole
of the bracket and through the hole of the braid leader rod and
of the braid leader bracket, then through the forward hole of the
.
. Pass the braid through the braid
braid leader guide.
Now the machine is ready for operation.
8
9
8. LEARNING TO OPERATE THE MACHINE (Fig.8)
Note: When in operation the machine pulley must always turn over away from
operator.
Mark a design (see Fig.8) on 30cm (12 inch) square piece of cloth. Place cloth
under presser foot so that the nee
ig. 6 to the right and the hook of the needle will be turned in the same direction.
F
dle will enter cloth as at point 1. Turn handle
,
Lower presser foot, start machine pulley by turning it over away from you, grasp
handle
right, cloth will be fed to point
to point
and pull it down to start the machine. With handle pressed and to the
, then turn handle to the front and cloth will be fed
turn handle to the left and cloth will be fed to point etc.
To stop machine raise handle
. Machine will stop with needle as its highest
point.
9. TO OPERATE THE MACHINE (Fig. 9)
The operator shou
below.
These designs can be sketched on white material such as lawn, and by following
them, the operator can soon become proficient enough to attempt more intricate
e
d signs or patterns.
ld practice embroidering designs similar to those illustrated
10
10. TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE PRESSER FOOT (Fig.4)
The pressure on the pre
crease the pressure, turn the thumb screw over to the right or downward. To
in
de
crease the pressure, turn the thumb screw over to the left or upward.
sser foot is regulated by the thumb screw
, Fig.4. To
11. TENSIONS (Fig.5)
If stitches are too tight, raise needle bar approximately 1.5/m (1/16 inch).
Various effects can be produced by changing the height of the needle bar as well
as by adjusting the length of stitch.
The tension on the thread is regulated by the thumb nut
e tension discs. To increase the tension turn this nut over toward you. To
th
ecrease the tension turn this nut over from you . this tension should be only tight
d
m
, Fig. 5 at the left of
nough to prevent the skipping of stitch.
e
11
12. TO ADJUST THE LENGTH OF STITCH (Fig. 10)
The length of stitch is adjusted by screw
osen locking lever
locking lever
.
and turn screw loover to the left or upward, then tighten
To
shorten the stitch, loosen locking lever
right or downward, then tighten locking lever
, Fig. 10. To lengthen the stitch,
and turn the screw over to the
.
13. TO R
EGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE NIPPLE (Fig.10 & 11)
The pressure on the nipple is regulated by the thumb screw
f the machine. To increase the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to the right or
o
, Fig. 10 at
the top
downward. To decrease the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to the left or
upward.
Note: Too much pressure on the nipple may cause the thread to break.
When sewing fine net, it is sometimes necessary to prevent the nipple from
touch
ing the needle plate.
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