Clipper Marine Corp. CM21, CM30, CM23, CM 1/4 ton, C32 Owner's Manual
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CLIPPER MARINE
OWNERS
MANUAL
Models: CM21 – CM23 – CM26 – CM30 – CM32 & CM 1/4-ton
Clipper Marine Corp.
1919 East Occidental St. • P.O. Box 15063
Santa Ana, California 92705
714-835-9316
CLIPPER MARINE OWNERS MANUAL
Clipper Marine Corp.
1919 East Occidental St.
P.O. Box 15063
Santa Ana, California 92705
714-835-9316
July 1975
Dear Clipper Owner:
We are happy you have chosen to join ,one of the fastest growing fleets in the country today.
We hope you will take an active part in your local Clipper Association and enjoy many years
of happy sailing in your new Clipper.
In the following pages we will attempt to familiarize you with the many features of your new
Clipper, suggest ways of protecting your investment and supply some basic sailing tips to
help you get started on the right track.
We trust you will find this manual helpful, whether your Clipper is a fixed keel, swing keel, or
any one of the models from 21 to 32 feet.
Happy Sailing,
Clipper Marine Corporation
Clipper Marine Corp.
1919 East Occidental St.
P.O. Box 15063
Santa Ana, California 92705
714-835-9316
Dear Owner:
We at Clipper want you to be completely satisfied with your sailboat that you have recently
purchased. Your dealer has prepared and looked after the launching and commissioning of
your boat to make certain that the boat is in fine working order. After a few initial shake-down
cruises and sea trials, there may be some questions about your Clipper sailboat that the
Owners Manual cannot answer. These problems can best be answered by your local dealer,
and he will be more than happy to assist you in solving the problem. If you still do not get
complete satisfaction from your dealer, please call me at (714) 835-9316 and tell me about
them. I will do my best to answer your questions and provide you with alternative answers.
Happy Sailing,
Phil Kaufman
CLIPPER MARINE CORPORATION
CONTENTS
SECTION DESCRIPTION
I History & Introduction of Clipper Marine Corporation
II Warranty Policy Manual
III Spars & Rigging
IV Sails: Care & Maintenance Bending on & Hoisting
V Electrical System & Navigational Lights
VI Head and Ice Box
VII Plumbing Systems
VIII Pedestal Steering
IX Your Trailer & Trailering
X Keels and Rudders
XI Outboard Engines
XII Inboard Engines
XIII Safe Fueling Practices
XIV Launching & Retrieving
XV Fiberglass Maintenance & Care
XVI Exterior Teak Trim
XVII Safety Equipment
XVIII Basic Sailing
Appendix
Sail Specifications
Yanmar Diesel Engine Specifications
Stanchion Specifications
Rigging, Sheets, & Halyard Specifications
This manual was reproduced by Calovini Photo/Graphic Design for the sole purpose of free distribution to owners or
future owners of Clipper Marine sail boats and may not to be sold in its present form or reproduced in its present form
for resale purposes. Any questions may be directed to Calovini Photo/Graphic Design at either calovini@calovini.com
or by phone at 614-895-3645.
SECTION ONE
HISTORY AND INTRODUCTION OF CLIPPER MARINE CORPORATION
The essence of a good boat is design. William I. B. Crealock, N.A., has spaced no effort in his
Clipper designs, as they are well balanced and exceptionally stiff. Each swing keel Clipper 21
through 26 is designed so the keel lifts up into the hull keel trunk while in the up position. This
means she is much easier to launch and retrieve, and on the highway, she’s much easier to trail
since the Clipper is so much lower on the trailer. To raise and lower the mast, only three stays need
to be disconnected (in the case of the 23, 26 and 30) and only one stay in the case of the 21 (covered in detail in rigging Section Three).
Every Clipper is built of all hand layed fiberglass and conforms to the most stringent standards.
Layer after layer of mat, cloth and woven roving are added until a rigid hull and deck are obtained.
Maintenance is at a minimum with your new Clipper. (Some tips are covered in Section Fifteen on
Fiberglass Maintenance and Care.)
Clipper Marine was started in 1969. The original factory was located in San Clemente, but the facility was quickly outgrown as the demand for Clipper 21’s was overwhelming almost from the first day
of production. The plant was moved to its current location in Santa Ana, where several new models
have been continuously added to the already fine line of sailboats.
In addition to the regular swing keel models, all Clippers, 23 feet and larger are available in a fixed
keel version.
SECTION TWO
WARRANTY POLICY MANUAL
Dealer must make available to all purchasers and potential purchasers, prior to sale, Clipper
Marine’s current warranty and, upon sale, must obtain purchaser’s signature on Clipper Marine’s current warranty registration card, and provide purchasers with a copy of the warranty and the change
of address/change of owner form. Dealer must return the completed and signed warranty registration card to Clipper Marine within 10 days from date of sale.
Whenever a warranty claim is made by any Clipper Marine boat owner, Dealer must call Clipper
Marine at (714) 835-9316 to obtain approval for the necessary repairs from the manager of Clipper
Marine’s Products Service Department or his supervisors. If the warranty work is approved during
this telephone conversation, Dealer will be assigned a repair number for the work, which number
must be used by Dealer in all further correspondence relating to that claim. Upon completion of the
warranty repair work, Dealer shall fill out the Clipper Marine Warranty Claim Report and shall transmit that report, fully completed and signed by the boat owner, along with all bills and repair receipts
for material and labor. Such warranty claim reports must be submitted to Clipper Marine within
30/days after the completion of the repairs. NO WARRANTY CLAIMS WILL BE HONORED
UNLESS DEALER FULLY COMPLIED WITH THE FOREGOING REQUIREMENTS.
Please note the following regulations before beginning warranty repair work. Clipper Marine’s warranty applies only to defects discovered within one year from date of first sale or use by dealer,
whichever occurs first. The warranty does not apply to any boat used for charter service or any
other commercial use (or to any boat which has been materially altered or modified without Clipper
Marine’s consent). The warranty applies only to boats which have been given normal and reasonable maintenance and does not apply if the repair is required because the boat has been subjected
to abnormal or unreasonable use. The Clipper Marine warranty does not cover normal wear and
discoloration of finishes, fittings or fabrics. (Leaks around windows and pop-tops are considered normal and subject to normal maintenance.) Clipper Marine will not reimburse Dealer for any material
used in warranty repair work unless Clipper Marine is first given the opportunity to supply the necessary materials to Dealer, free of charge.
Clipper Marine may require Dealer to return the boat to Clipper Marine’s factory in order to effect
major repairs.
Clipper Marine expects its dealers to stand behind their warranty work, and will not reimburse Dealer
for the same repair twice.
We feel that if Clipper Marine’s dealers handle all warranty claims as though they were bearing the
expense, the Clipper Marine warranty policy will operate smoothly and to the benefit of Clipper
Marine, its dealers and their customers. Clipper Marine asks each dealer to keep the Clipper Marine
warranty policy manual in front of him when talking to Clipper Marine owners about warranty coverage.
SECTION THREE
SPARS AND RIGGING
The rigging on your Clipper is of the highest quality stainless steel with swedged fittings. The standing rigging consists of a headstay, backstay, two upper shrouds and four lower shrouds (two lower
shrouds in the case of the Clipper 21). To raise and lower the mast, the forward lowers and the
headstay need only be disconnected. The remainder may be left connected for trailering, saving
time at your next stop.
The running rigging consists of two halyards, a main and a jib halyard for hoisting the sails. To simplify setting up your boat to sail, leave the halyards tied to their respective cleats at the base of the
mast so they don’t become tangled.
MAINSHEET: The line from the mainsheet jam cleat and the block is
fastened to the lower side of the boom. The mainsheet jam cleat
fastens to the traveler in the cockpit. The traveler may remain
centered by use of the traveler control lines, while you are first
getting use to your new Clipper. After you have become proficient in handling your Clipper and you
feel like experimenting to gain more speed, you may start working with the traveler. Starting from
the centered position you will gradually pull the traveler to windward (toward the direction the wind is
coming from) in fairly light winds—say up to 8 or 10 knots. The 10 to 12 knot wind zone you will
probably find optimum performance with the traveler centered, but as the wind increases you can let
the traveler slide down to the leeward side.
JIB SHEETS: Attached to the clew (grommet at the lower trailing edge of the jib sail) and runs outside of all shrouds and lifelines and through the jib sheet blocks. Your halyards and sheets should
be checked also for broken or frayed sections. Your sheets and running rigging are dacron and
occasionally an end may fray. Put a piece of tape around the line several inches back from the
frayed section and trim with a sharp knife. Use a candle or lighter to burn the end. When the dacron
melts, it will never fray again.
SPARS: Your spar (mast) is of the highest quality anodized aluminum and requires no painting.
Soap and water on the shrouds and mast along with a bronze wool pad will remove the surface dirt
and oxidation. A good automotive past wax can help keep your spar looking like new for quite some
time, otherwise eventually the surface will begin to break down and oxidize. Keeping the halyards
tied away from the mast at rest will not only eliminate a lot of noise, but it will also keep the anodized
surface from becoming marred.
It is a good idea to periodically check all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, sheaves and rivets on your mast for
signs of wear. Make sure the spreader tips are well taped to protect against sail wear. All blocks,
turnbuckles and sheaves should be lubricated periodically with a light oil or grease such as WD-40.
STEPPING
YOUR MAST:
1. Hook up upper shrouds, aft lower shrouds and backstay. On the 21, hook up only the uppers, lowers and backstay.
2. Set mast in mast carrier and secure the base of the mast in the mast step with the bolt provided.
Note: If your mast carrier has two height positions be sure it is as high as it will go.
3. Check all shrouds to see they aren’t caught or tangled.
4. Standing in the cockpit or on cabin top, (pop-top down and hatch closed) walk the mast up and
have someone secure the headstay. Don’t let go of the mast if you go forward to attach the headstay.
5. Tighten lock nuts on turnbuckles. Depending on the type of turnbuckles on your Clipper, they
should have either cotter pins in place, lock nuts tightened, or even be safety wired. If not, the turnbuckles can easily come loose, causing you to lose a mast overboard.
TUNING YOUR RIGGING: It is recommended that a qualified person be on hand while the rig on
your new Clipper is tuned for the first time. Later you may follow these steps in tuning your rig and
you will be surprised at the improvement in performance that will be made. Caution: Do not overtighten the standing rigging on your Clipper. It should no sound like a guitar string!
First with your boat sitting at the dock:
1. The headstay and backstay should be tightened equally. Of all the rigging on your Clipper, the
headstay and backstay should be the tightest. This is so that the headstay will not sag excessively
while you are sailing to weather under jib or genoa. The sailmaker has allowed for about 10” of sag
in your jib so any more than this under load is reducing your performance. A simple test of headstay
tension is to stand on the foredeck and tug on the headstay. With a good strong, short tug, you
should be able to flex the headstay five or six inches.
2. Next, tighten up the shrouds. Both sides should be tightened equally. Both turnbuckles should
have an equal number of turns, and should be good and snug, but not as tight as the headstay.
3. Now tighten all of the lower shrouds equally. These will not be as tight as the uppers, but just to
the point where the mast is in column or straight. To determine this, sight up the sail groove in the
aft edge of the mast. It should be in a perfectly straight line, both laterally and fore and aft.
4. If the mast is not in column, re-adjust the upper and lower shrouds until you have the mast in a
straight position.
5. Now you are ready to perform the fine tuning under sail. In a breeze of 8 to 12 knots, take the
boat out and alternately sail on one tack and then the other. Sight up the mast and see if it is still in
column. If not, tack and adjust the turnbuckles when they are not under load. If you have adequate
headstay tension to prevent excessive sag while under sail, you should never have to touch the
headstay or backstay to get the mast in column. All adjustments will be made to the upper and
lower shrouds. You may have to repeat this operation for five or six tacks until the mast looks perfectly straight. Now pin or tighten the safety nuts on your turnbuckles.
After you have sailed several hours in some stronger winds, you will notice that the shrouds have
stretched. This is perfectly normal the first few times, and it will he necessary to re-tune your rig if
you wish to obtain optimum performance from your Clipper.
ADJUST
ABLE BACKSTAY: On some Clippers an adjustable backstay is supplied. It is primarily
used for racing. This can be tightened prior to a race to minimize headstay sag, but should be
slacked off after you return to the dock. If you find your self in exceptionally strong winds, it is a
good idea to increase the tension on the backstay a little with the adjuster. This will keep the mast in
compression and may prevent a rigging failure. The primary reason for rigging failure in heavy wind
conditions is too much sail and too little backstay tension.
SECTION FOUR
SAILS: CARE AND MAINTENANCE, BENDING ON AND HOISTING
Your new Clipper has come equipped with a set of working sails (a main and jib). If this is your first
boat and you are just learning to sail, the main and jib sails will be all that you will need, but as you
become more proficient, you will probably want to add more sails. Optional sails that are available to
you from Clipper Marine include a spinnaker and a 150% genoa and reacher/drifter. If you add
these you will be equipped to sail in just about any conditions.
JIBS AND GENOAS: So that you will understand the difference in genoa sizes, the percentage indicated an a genoa refers to the longest perpendicular (LP) of the sail. This is the distance along an
imaginary line running from the clew of the sail and intersecting the luff of the sail at a right angle.
In the case of Clipper’s 150% genoa, the distance is 150% of the J dimension (horizontal distance
from the front side of the mast at the deck and centerline to the headstay).
SPINNAKERS: The Clipper spinnaker is of nylon and the kit includes a spinnaker pole, topping lift,
halyard, sheets, foreguy, cleats and blocks.
HOISTING SAILS: You are now ready to begin bending on or attaching the sails.
1. The boat should be moved around the dock until the bow of the boat is pointing as close into the
oncoming wind as possible. There is nothing as unpleasant or frustrating as trying to hoist sails with
a cross wind or the wind behind you.
2. Starting with the mainsail, insert the battens in the four pockets, being careful the ends are tucked
in snugly. The mainsail should be put on the boom before attempting to hoist it, and the gooseneck
fitting (fitting on the boom closest to the mast) should be attached to the mast. The outhaul should
be tightened just enough to take cut the wrinkles in the foot (bottom edge of sail).
3. Now you are ready to hank on or attach the jib. Starting with the tack, shackle it to the first hole
behind the headstay. Working from the tack upward, attach each hank to the headstay, making sure
the sail doesn’t get twisted. The jib sheets should now be run aft through their respective blocks and
the halyard attached.
You are now ready to hoist sails: Beginning with the main, hoist the sail so the top or head just
clears the backstay. Now apply downward pressure on the boom at the gooseneck to just remove
the wrinkles from the luff (leading edge of sail). The gooseneck on the boom should now be below
the opening in the mast which accepts the gooseneck. Tie the down haul line off on the cleat provided.
HOIST_THE JIB: When the jib is hoisted it will probably need additional tension to remove the scallops from between the hanks. You don’t want the hoist too tight, but just enough to completely
remove these scallops (sags in the sail between hanks). As the wind velocity increases you may
note the scallops begin to/reappear, in which case, apply additional tension. The necessary tension
will either require a small winch on the mast or a simple trucker’s hitch. (With the sail hoisted to the
top, tie a loop in the rope section of the halyard two feet above the cleat. Take the remaining halyard
down around the cleat, up through the loop and then tie off to the cleat.) You are now ready to
adjust the jib sheet lead positions.
Generally speaking, the working jib will lead to the forward end of the track and the genoa to the aft
part of the track. For optimum performance, the position of the fairlead is best determined by
sheeting the sail in and sailing up into the wind until the sail just begins to luff or break. If your lead
is in the correct position, the entire luff of the sail from head to foot luffs or breaks at the same time.
If the bottom area luffs before the top, the lead is too far forward, and vice versa if the upper area
luffs first. Adjust the leads back and forth until you have an even luff of the sail.
If your Clipper is not pointing as well as you think it should, the natural tendency is to sheet the jib
and main in tighter. In most cases just the opposite trim is needed. Try easing the sheets a little and
see if both boat speed and pointing ability don’t improve.
SAIL CARE: In order to protect the finish of your sails and add to their life we recommend they be
folded or rolled up before you put them away. Folding the jib on the dock is easiest, but can be done
right on the deck. The main can be rolled right on the boom, but be sure you release the outhaul
tension first. If you are not planning on sailing for a couple of days, the battens should be removed
from the sail and stored flat in a dry area. This is extremely important as they become warped or
permanently bent and will thusly affect the performance of your mainsail. When the sails are put
away they should be dry.
If you sail in salt water, salt will gradually accumulate on the sail and should periodically be washed
off with fresh water. The principle source of dirt on your sails is from the rigging. Try to keep the rigging as clean as possible. Soap and water, bronze wool (steel wool leaves particles that rust) and a
rag should do the trick.
There is no sure fire way to keep sails looking new indefinitely, but you can remove a lot of accumulated dirt by washing the sail with a mild detergent and cold or warm water. Scrub excessive dirty
spots with a soft bristle brush and then rinse thoroughly to remove all detergent. By all means,
never put your sails in the washing machine or dryer!
Spots or grease, mildew or rust won’t harm the fabric, but do detract from its appearance. Try the
following:
Milde
w - Place the stained area in a 1% cold water solution of bleach and let it soak for two hours
Wash thoroughly and rinse with fresh water.
Oil and grease - Use a cleaning solvent. If yellow stains remain after oil and grease is dissolved, try
bleaching with Oxalic acid
followed by thoroughly washing and rinsing.
Rust - Soak stained area in a warm solution of two parts concentrated hydrochloric acid per 100
parts water, wash thoroughly
and rinse.
Direct sunlight will gradually break down most synthetic fibers including dacron and nylon. When
they are not in use, store your sails below deck and out of extreme heat, such as in the trunk of an
automobile. With just reasonable care and by following some of the tips outlined above, your sails
will give you years of reliable use.
SECTION FIVE
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND NAVIGATIONAL LIGHTS
Basic Electrical Systems
It is important to remember that your basic single battery or dual battery electrical system with fuses
in the fuse panel may be altered depending on the particular model you have, to conform to the
electrical requirements of your engine, and additional optional accessories. The wiring diagrams in
this manual in some cases may be changed by specific engine wiring diagrams that appears in the
Engine Section of this manual. Also note that the description of any special optional electrical equipment (electric bilge pump,110 volt system, etc.) will be found in another section, more appropriately,
of this manual. In the event you make any electrical modifications to your boat be sure that you follow the Wiring Diagram or contact Clipper Marine or consult a competent Marine Electrician. Boat
wiring is considerably different from a normal house wiring due to the marine environment and other
unique conditions not associated with houses.
Basic Fuse Breaker Electrical Systems
The master power control panel and battery switch indicator are simplified controls for your protection to permit safe and efficient operation of your boat’s electrical equipment.Electrical current is
directed from a twelve volt, 60 amp battery or batteries through the master battery switch panel,
specifically for engine starting, battery charging, and accessory loads, The battery is similar to the
one you have in your automobile, it should never be allowed to run out of water.
While the standard installation for most models in one battery, many owners do considerable cruising and like the convenience of the second battery. Two batteries are standard on most diesel installations.
Use the master battery switch in “All Position” only for emergency starting when both batteries are
low or for toping off when both batteries are near full charge. When both batteries are completely
charged transfer to either battery keeping one always in reserve. This is especially important when
you realize there is no way to start your inboard engine with a dead battery. NEVER MOVE THE
MASTER BATTER SWITCH to “OFF” while the engine is running or the alternator diodes may be
burned out.
Masthead Lights
This is the white 20 point light on the mast that is only to be used when under power or motor sailing
at night. it also serves as quick way of illuminating the jib at night to check its trim or in emergency
cases, when recognition is important.
Running Lights
A red and green light mounted on the bow and a white light on the stern are wired to the running
light switch. Under sail at night, these are the only lights that should be used except for the possible
shining of a flashlight on the sails if you feel the need to be seen by another vessel. If you should
replace a bulb, it is important to remember federal regulations require your lights to be visible for
one mile, so the new bulb should be of equal intensity to the one it replaces.
Cabin Lights
The cabin lights have their own individual switches but must be activated by the Cabin Light Switch
on the master power control panel. If the cabin lights start getting dim, this is fair warning that the
battery needs a charge or is getting old.
Periodically check all wires, connectors, and terminals for loose connections which may cause electrical sparks or power loss. When leaving the boat, FIRST TURN OFF THE ENGINE THEN-THE
MASTER BATTERY SWITCH TO-OFF.
Optional Electrical Accessories
LIGHTENING GROUND. If optional lightening protection has been
provided, it will consist of a #8 9x21 strand wire connecting
the upper headstay or backstay chain plate to a common point on
one of the keel boats.
110 VOLT SHORE POWER. When optional shore power chord is plugged in, the 110 volt DC current is delivered to the duplex outlets below throughout your boat. The 110 volt toggle switch on
your master control panel must be turned on in order for the 110 electricity to work for your appliances. Be sure that all 110 volt AC appliances, other than lamps, have adequate grounds or the
moist atmosphere and wet feet could really increase the shock potential.
COMPASS LIGHTS, INSTRUMENT LIGHTS AND INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
Optional accessory lights in the cockpit have been wired by the plant to the master control panel.
These accessories are usually either wired to the engine or the navigational light toggle switch. If
you have any problems with them, please consult your Wiring Diagram for the specific model in
question.
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