Cleveland ST-28 Installation Manual

KE603611

Operators Manual

Installation, Operation & Service

ST Equipment Stands

MODELS:

ST-28
ST-42
ST-55
EST-28
ST-28B

1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110

Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Visit our web site at www.clevelandrange.com

d

Enodis

WARNING:

➩ Stand must be bolted to floor.

➩ Any unit mounted on this stand must be bolted in

place.

➩ Failure to do so may result in serious injury.

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Clev elan

INSTALLATION

Installation of the unit must be accomplished by
qualified electrical installation personnel working to all
applicable local and national codes. Improper
installation of product could cause injury or damage.

This equipment is built to comply with applicable
standards for manufacturers. Included among those
approval agencies are: UL, NSF, ASME/Ntl. Bd., CSA,
CGA, ETL, and others. Many local codes exist, and it
is the responsibility of the owner/installer to comply
with these codes.

INSPECTION

Before unpacking visually inspect the unit for
evidence of damage during shipping.

If damage is noticed, do not unpack the unit, follow
Shipping Damage Instructions shown below.

SHIPPING DAMAGE
INSTRUCTIONS

If shipping damage to the unit is discovered or
suspected, observe the following guidelines in
preparing a shipping damage claim.

1. Write down a description of the damage or the
reason for suspecting damage as soon as it is
discovered. This will help in filling out the claim
forms later.

2. As soon as damage is discovered or suspected,
notify the carrier that delivered the shipment.

3. Arrange for the carrier's representative to examine
the damage.

4. Fill out all carrier claims forms and have the
examining carrier sign and date each form.

INSTALLATION

Refer to the Specification Sheets or Specification
Drawings for detailed installation dimensions and
clearance requirements.

In general, clearances are determined by the
equipment mounted on the stand.

1. Position the unit in its permanent location, and
level the unit by turning the adjustable feet.

2. Once positioned and leveled, permanently secure
the unit's rear feet to the floor using 5/16" lag bolts
and floor anchors (supplied by the installer). Two
bolts are required to secure each of the rear feet.

3. Seal joints of rear feet with a silicone sealant.

4. Connect drain (1 1/4” NPT connection).

CARE AND CLEANING

Cooking equipment must be cleaned regularly to
maintain its fast, efficient cooking performance and to
ensure its continued safe, reliable operation. The best
time to clean is shortly after each use.

WARNINGS

➩ Do not use detergents or

cleansers that are chloride
based or contain quaternary
salt.

➩ Do not use a metal bristle

brush or scraper.

➩ Steel wool should never be

used for cleaning the stainless
steel.

➩ Unit should never be cleaned

with a high pressure spray
hose.

➩

Do not leave water sitting in
unit when not in use.

NOTES

➩ For more difficult cleaning applications one of the

following can be used: alcohol, baking soda,
vinegar, or a solution of ammonia in water.

➩ For more detailed instructions refer to the Nafem

Stainless Steel Equipment Care and Cleaning
manual (supplied with unit).

Chloride Cleaners

Wire Brush &

Steel Pads

High Pressure

Spray Hose

Stagnant

Water

STAINLESS STEEL EQUIPMENT CARE AND CLEANING

(Suppied courtesy of Nafem. For more information visit their web site at www.nafem.org)

Contrary to popular belief, stainless steels ARE susceptible to rusting.

Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron and
steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called “active”
because they actively corrode in a natural environment when their atoms
combine with oxygen to form rust.

Stainless steels are passive metals because they contain other metals, like
chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize the atoms. 400 series
stainless steels are called ferritic, contain chromium, and are magnetic;
300 series stainless steels are called austenitic, contain chromium and
nickel; and 200 series stainless, also austenitic, contains manganese,
nitrogen and carbon. Austenitic types of stainless are not magnetic, and
generally provide greater resistance to corrosion than ferritic types.

With 12-30 percent chromium, an invisible passive film covers the steel’s
surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As long as the film is intact
and not broken or contaminated, the metal is passive and stain-less. If the
passive film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment starts to
corrode. At its end, it rusts.

Enemies of Stainless Steel

There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel’s
passivity layer and allow corrosion to occur.

1. Mechanical abrasion

2. Deposits and water

3. Chlorides

Mechanical abrasion means those things that will scratch a steel surface.
Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.

Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending
on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard or soft water.
Hard water may leave spots, and when heated leave deposits behind that
if left to sit, will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel. Other
deposits from food preparation and service must be properly removed.

Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table
salt. One of the worst chloride perpetrators can come from household and
industrial cleaners.

So what does all this mean? Don’t Despair!

Here are a few steps that can help prevent stainless steel rust.

1.

Use the pr

oper tools.

When cleaning stainless steel products, use non-abrasive tools. Soft
cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm steel’s passive layer.
Stainless steel pads also can be used but the scrubbing motion must
be in the direction of the manufacturers’ polishing marks.

2.

Clean with the polish lines.

Some stainless steel comes with visible polishing lines or “grain.”
When visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion parallel to the
lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and use a soft cloth
or plastic scouring pad.

3.

Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners.

While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry
is providing an ever-increasing choice of non-chloride cleaners. If you
are not sure of chloride content in the cleaner used, contact your cleaner
supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if
they have an alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salts; it
also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.

4.

Treat your water

.

Though this is not always practical, softening hard water can do much
to reduce deposits. There are certain filters that can be installed to
remove distasteful and corrosive elements. To insure proper water
treatment, call a treatment specialist.

5.

Keep your food equipment clean.

Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at
recommended strength. Clean frequently to avoid build-up of hard,
stubborn stains. If you boil water in stainless steel equipment,
remember the single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the
water. Heating cleaners that contain chlorides have a similar effect.

6.

Rinse, rinse, rinse.

If chlorinated cleaners are used, rinse and wipe equipment and
supplies dry immediately. The sooner you wipe off standing water,
especially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping
equipment down, allow it to air dry; oxygen helps maintain the
stainless steel’s passivity film.

7.

Never use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel.

8.

Regularly restore/passivate stainless steel.

Recommended cleaners for specific situations

Job Cleaning Agent Comments

Routine cleaning Soap, ammonia, Apply with cloth or sponge

detergent, Medallion

Fingerprints & smears Arcal 20, Lac-O-Nu Provides barrier film

Ecoshine

Stubborn stains & Cameo, Talc, Zud, Rub in direction of polish lines
discoloration First Impression

Grease & fatty acids, Easy-off, De-Grease Excellent removal on all finishes
blood, burnt-on-foods It Oven Aid

Grease & oil Any good Apply with sponge or cloth

commercial detergent

Restoration/Passivation Benefit, Super Sheen

Review

1. Stainless steels rust when passivity (film-shield) breaks down as a
result of scrapes, scratches, deposits and chlorides.

2. Stainless steel rust starts with pits and cracks.

3. Use the proper tools. Do not use steel pads, wire brushes or scrapers

to clean stainless steel.

4. Use non-chlorinated cleaners at recommended concentrations. Use
only chloride- free cleaners.

5. Soften your water. Use filters and softeners whenever possible.

6. Wipe off cleaning agent(s) and standing water as soon as possible.

Prolonged contact causes eventual problems.

To learn more about chloride-stress corrosion and how to prevent it,
contact the equipment manufacturer or cleaning materials supplier.

Developed by Packer Engineering, Naperville, Ill., an independent testing
laboratory.