Clancy Aviation Big Bee Instructions For Assembly

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Clancy Aviation has brought the world of the Classic Lazy Bee to new dimensions with this 60" wing span, .40 size engine Big Bee ARF. Get to the field quickly with this low parts-count, easy-to-assemble aircraft. Flying the Lazy Bee is fun-defined and the Big Bee ARF brings a new dimension to that style. The poly-tips capture the unique styling and handling of the Lazy Bee but with an added flair of ailerons for smoother control response. Use them together and you'll find this Bee will perform mild-to-wild gyrations you only thought possible with fun-fly aircraft. Unique too to the Big Bee ARF is its park flyer-like wing loading. At only

10.5 ounces per square foot and 1150 square inches, it's amazing what the Big Bee ARF can do.

The Lazy Bee flying experience is a unique one, and with the larger Big Bee ARF, you'll find new fun in this special Andy Clancy design.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY

BIG BEE ARF SPECIFICATIONS:

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The Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF is distributed

exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Version 2.0 June 2005

Wing Span: 60 Inches (1524mm)

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Wing Area: 1150 Square Inches (74dm2)

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Length: 48.75 Inches (1238mm)

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Weight RTF: 5.25 - 6 Pounds (148 - 178gr)

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Wing Loading: 10.5 - 12 Ounces/Square Foot (2 - 2.3gr/dm2)

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle

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Engine Required: .32 - .46 Two-Stroke or .40 - .61 Four-Stroke

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Radio Required: 4 Channel or More w/5 Standard Servos

Recommended Electric Power Systems:

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Astro Flight Cobalt 25 Geared, AXI 2826/10 or Similar with Matching ESC

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12-16 Cell NiMH Sub-C or 3-4 Cell 2100-3200mAH LiPO

Kit Product Number 222212

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ...................................................................................... 2

Introduction ............................................................................................ 3

Customer Service Information ..............................................................3

Section 1: Our Recommendations ....................................................... 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ............................................. 5

Section 3: A Note About Covering ....................................................... 5

Section 4: Kit Contents ........................................................................ 6

Section 5: Wing Assembly ................................................................... 7

Section 6: Aileron Hinging ................................................................. 10

Section 7: Wing Mounting .................................................................. 11

Section 8: Stabilizer Installation.........................................................12

Section 9: Rudder Installation ............................................................ 16

Section 10: Landing Gear Installation ................................................ 17

Section 11: Engine Installation .......................................................... 19

Section 12: Fuel Tank Assembly and Installation.............................. 22

Section 13: Throttle Control System Installation ...............................23

Section 14: Elevator and Rudder Control Systems Installation ........... 25

Section 15: Aileron Control System Installation ................................28

Section 16: Final Assembly................................................................30

Section 17: Balancing the Big Bee ARF............................................33

Section 18: Lateral Balancing the Big Bee ARF ............................... 33

Section 19: Control Throws................................................................34

Section 20: Replacement Parts ......................................................... 34

Product Evaluation Sheet ................................................................... 35

Check out our website for more information on

this and other exciting Clancy Aviation products!

http://clancyaviation.globalhobby.com

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Clancy Aviation guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Clancy Aviation's liability exceed the original cost of

the purchased kit.

In that Clancy Aviation has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

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INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

BIG BEE ARF FEATURES

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Prebuilt from High-Quality Balsa and Light Plywood

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Detailed, Laser-Cut Parts to Maximize Weight Reduction and Precovered with Real Iron-On, Heat-Shrink Covering Material

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Easy-to-Install Molded Clear Windshield and Side Windows

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Can be Flown with Glow Power or Electric Power - Accepts a Wide Range of Powerplants

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Durable Shock-Absorbing Main Landing Gear with Steerable Tail Wheel

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Dual Aileron Servos for Crisp Roll Response

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Includes a High-Quality Hardware Package

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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 60 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings to Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small

parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

to protect the table and to protect the parts.

CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please contact us at the address below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

Email: [email protected]

CHECK IT OUT! We urge you to come check out our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will find public message

boards frequented by other Clancy Aviation product owners and the Global Services support staff. This is a great place to learn about new products, get help and suggestions for your product or just simply hang out and chat with people that share your same interests.

To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors

does not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

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SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF.

Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.

What Engine Should I Use?

The Big Bee ARF is designed to use a .32 - .46 size two-stroke engine or a .40 - .61 size four-stroke engine. The airplane flies great using engines within the recommended size ranges, although for the

most speed and best aerobatic performance we suggest using an engine at the upper end of

the size range. For smooth and relaxing slow flight, use an engine in the low end of the size range.

We don't suggest using engine's larger than those recommended. A larger engine will typically weigh more and this extra weight could have a negative effect on the airplane's flight characteristics. A larger engine may also be physically too big to mount onto the firewall.

IF YOU'RE FLYING AT HIGHER ALTITUDES, WE RECOMMEND USING AN ENGINE AT THE HIGH END OF THE RECOMMENDED SIZE RANGE.

What Radio System and Servos Should I Use?

You will need to use a four or more channel radio control system with five standard servos. A standard four-channel radio or a more sophisticated computer radio would work equally well. Using a computer radio will allow you to plug each aileron servo separately into the receiver, allowing you the capability of aileron to flap mixing for outrageous control response. Note that in order to take advantage of aileron to flap mixing, you will need to use a six or more channel receiver.

Suggested Setup for Electric Flight

We know that many customers will want to power their Speedy Bee ARF with an electric power system, rather than a glow engine. A number of different power systems will work equally well. We suggest using either the Astro Cobalt 25 geared motor, the AXI 2826/10, or any motor of

similar output. For batteries, a 12-16 cell pack of Sub-C NiMH cells will work well, or for longer run-time and less weight, use a 3-4 cell 2100-3200mAH LiPO battery. The ESC you choose should match the motor, propeller and flight battery type and cell count you chosen.

What Else Do I Need?

There really isn't much else that you'll need to finish the airplane. Most of the hardware is included in the kit, so about the only thing else you'll need is a propeller and glow plug to suit your engine, two servo extension leads and a Y-Harness (if you're not using mixing). You'll also need typical modeling supplies, such as foam rubber to protect your receiver and battery, and fuel tubing. You may need a soldering iron, solder and other related

supplies if you're using electric power.

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Big Bee ARF

QTY. 1 210756 Magnum XLS .46A Two-Stroke Engine

QTY. 1 608560 APC 11 x 6 Composite Propeller

QTY. 5 444104 Cirrus CS-36 Standard Servos

QTY. 2 444713 Cirrus 12" Servo Extensions

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

QTY. 1 115559 Thunderbolt # 3 Performance Glow Plug

QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicone Fuel Tubing

QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber

QTY. 1 867903 Dubro 3/8" Heat-Shrink Tubing

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✦IMPORTANT

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connector. The part number for the Cirrus servo extensions and Y-Harness are compatible with Hitec and JR radio control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.

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✦ The part number for the Cirrus servos is compatible with all name-brand radio control systems. These servos use a universal

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SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your new Clancy Aviation Speedy Bee ARF. We suggest having these items on hand before beginning assembly.

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545 ❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue # 339176 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407 ❑ # 0, #1 & #2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill

❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977 ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567677 ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Wax Paper ❑ Petroleum Jelly ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205 ❑ Global Heat Gun # 360920 ❑ Global Heat-Sealing Iron # 360900

SECTION 3: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron.

Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:

❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for approximately

5 - 7 minutes.

❑ After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the

sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down

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and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

PRO TIP

for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle and possibly distort the molded windshield and side windows. The extreme heat could also damage the fragile components of the radio control system.

We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight)

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SECTION 4: KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.

If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us as soon as possible, using the Customer Service

Information on page # 3.

A complete replacement parts list can be found on page # 33.

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage w/Hatch Cover ❑ (1) Wing Center-Section Panel ❑ (1) Right Wing Tip Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Tip Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator ❑ (1) Rudder

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (1) Aluminum Axle Support Tube ❑ (1) Steel Axle ❑ (2) Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) Wheel Collars ❑ (2) M3 x 5mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Rubber Bands

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 3-1/2" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns (Large) ❑ (4) M2 x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap-Keepers ❑ (6) Steel-Pinned Hinges

ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 18-3/8" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend ❑ (1) 17-7/8" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small) ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap-Keepers ❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Machine Screws ❑ (8) C/A-Style Hinges (7 Large and 1 Small)

ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (4) M3 Blind Nuts ❑ (12) M3 Flat Washers

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing ❑ (1) Tail Wheel ❑ (1) Nylon Spacer ❑ (1) Wheel Collar ❑ (1) M3 x 5mm Machine Screw

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 21-1/2" Plain Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector w/Machine Screw & Nut

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 240cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing ❑ (3) Aluminum Tubing

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (1) Clear Molded Windshield ❑ (2) Clear Molded Side Window Sets ❑ (3) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (1) Clear Tubing ❑ (1) Decal Set

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Plywood Wing Mounting Bracket ❑ (2) Aluminum Wing Joiners ❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler (W35) ❑ (2) M4 x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

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SECTION 5: WING ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Wing Center-Section Panel ❑ (1) Right Wing Tip Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Tip Panel w/Aileron

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

STEP 1: ALIGNING THE WING PANELS

❑ Remove the aileron and hinges from both wing tip panels and set them aside for now.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the excess covering

material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing tip panel, leaving about 1/16" overlapped so it does not pull away. Do the same to remove the covering material from only the gluing surfaces on each root end of the wing center-section panel.

❑ (1) Plywood Wing Mounting Bracket ❑ (2) Aluminum Wing Joiners

❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

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✦IMPORTANT

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that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the glue joints may fail during flight.

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✦ It's very important to the integrity of the glue joints

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✦IMPORTANT

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✦ The aluminum wing joiner is straight. There is no top or bottom.

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❑ Working with one aluminum wing joiner for now, use a ruler and a

pencil to locate and draw a vertical centerline on each side of one aluminum wing joiner.

❑ Test-fit the aluminum wing joiner into the wing joiner box in one wing

tip panel. It should slide easily into the joiner box up to the centerline you drew.

If the wing joiner does not fit properly, use 220 grit sandpaper

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with a sanding block to lightly deburr the edges and tips of the wing joiner.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Carefully slide the wing tip panel and the wing center-section panel

together with the wing joiner temporarily installed (without using glue).

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✦IMPORTANT

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guide the aileron servo lead pull-string from the hole in the wing center-section panel into the matching hole in the wing tip panel.

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✦IMPORTANT

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loose. This will ensure that when you glue the wing joiner into place that epoxy can get into the joints between the wing joiner and the wing joiner boxes. If the wing joiner fits too tightly, the epoxy will be pushed out of the joints when you slide the wing joiner into the wing panels, leaving no glue to secure it into place.

❑ While holding the wing tip panel and the wing center-section panel together firmly, make sure that both wing panels are lined up

at both the leading and the trailing edges, then look carefully at the glue joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.

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✦IMPORTANT

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panels fit together firmly to ensure that the amount of dihedral is correct.

If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to

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lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit. Typically, the fit of these parts is very good, although, to achieve a perfect fit, you may need to sand the root end of one or both of the wing panels, in addition to lightly sanding the edges and tips of the wing joiner.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the wing tip panel from the wing center-section panel.

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✦ When the wing joiner is installed, it should not fit tightly into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly

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✦ The proper amount of dihedral is built into the root rib of the wing tip panel. It's important that the two wing

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✦ While sliding the two wing panels together, carefully

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE WING TIP PANEL

❑ Apply a long strip of masking tape to the top and bottom edges of the

root rib on both the wing panels.

The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting onto the

☞

parts when you join them. This will make cleanup of the glue joint much easier.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Working with the wing tip panel for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the wing

joiner box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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✦WARNING

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minute epoxy. It is not strong enough.

❑ Slide the wing joiner into the wing tip panel up to its centerline. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

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✦ Use only 30 or 45 minute epoxy to install the wing joiner and to join the wing panels together. Do not use 5

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❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-fit the wing tip panel and the wing center-section panel together again to double-check that they

still fit together properly. Check the leading and trailing edges, too. It's important that they be even with each other.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the wing

joiner box in the wing center-section panel, and to the entire gluing surface of BOTH root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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✦IMPORTANT

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root ribs and to the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during flight.

❑ Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing

alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.

STEP 3: CHECKING THE GLUE JOINT

❑ Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the glue joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small

quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.

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✦IMPORTANT

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appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the glue joint as strong as possible, it's important to fill any gaps, using 30 minute epoxy.

❑ After the epoxy has fully cured, repeat the previous steps and procedures to install the second wing tip panel onto the other end

of the wing center-section panel.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE WING MOUNTING BRACKET

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✦ It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the glue joint that you apply a generous amount of epoxy to both

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✦ Do not omit this procedure. The parts should fit together tightly, but it's possible to have some small gaps that

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❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the wing mounting bracket slot in the bottom of the wing. The slot is located on the centerline of the wing, 2-1/4" behind the leading edge. The slot is 3-7/8" long and 1/4" wide.

❑ Test-fit the plywood wing mounting bracket into the slot, as shown.

When positioned properly, the wing mounting bracket should be pushed forward as far as possible and the back edge of the wing mounting bracket should be even with the surface of the wing.

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✦IMPORTANT

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will be a gap between the back of the wing mounting bracket and the back of the mounting slot. This is normal.

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✦ The notch in the front of the wing mounting bracket hooks under the sheeting on the bottom of the wing. There

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❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue the wing mounting bracket into place, using a generous amount of 30 minute

epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to fully cure.

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SECTION 6: AILERON HINGING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (6) Steel-Pinned Hinges

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ Petroleum Jelly ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

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✦Important Information About the Aileron Hinges Included with Your Big Bee ARF

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The hinges are not glued into place from the factory. You must glue them into place. The ailerons are hinged using plastic steelpinned hinges that are designed to be glued into place with epoxy. Do not use thin C/A to glue these hinges into place.

For flutter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by having a tight hinge gap (no more than 1/32" wide) and using plenty of glue.

STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand both sides

of the mounting tabs on each of the eight hinges, to roughen the smooth plastic surfaces.

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✦IMPORTANT

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stick to it. If you don't roughen the plastic, the hinge(s) may pull out during flight.

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✦ You must roughen the plastic so that the epoxy will

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❑ Slide three of the hinges into one aileron and center them in the

middle of the hinge slots.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow bevel in the aileron

directly above and below each hinge, so that the hinge pivot point can be recessed into the leading edge.

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✦IMPORTANT

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you push the hinge in further, the pivot point of the hinge will be flush with the leading edge of the aileron. This will ensure that there will be little to no hinge gap when the aileron is hinged to the wing.

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✦ The bevel should be deep enough so that when

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❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, remove the hinges and carefully apply a thin coat of lightweight oil or petroleum jelly to

only the pivot point of each of the three hinges. This will prevent the hinges from being glued solid when you install them.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue each of the three hinges into only the aileron for now. Make sure that

the hinges' pivot point is straight and flush with the leading edge of the aileron, then remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to set up for about 10 minutes before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-fit the aileron to the wing panel,

making sure that the leading edge of the aileron is pushed firmly up against the trailing edge of the wing panel, and that the tip of the aileron is even with the tip of the wing. There should be no more than a 1/32" wide hinge gap. There should be a narrow gap between the inboard edge of the aileron and the wing.

If you can't push the aileron far enough forward to achieve the proper

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hinge gap, you will need to cut a shallow bevel in the trailing edge of the wing for each of the hinges.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the aileron and apply another coat of lightweight oil or petroleum jelly to each hinge pivot

point, then hinge the aileron to the wing, using 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy sets up, pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges. If you notice any excess dried epoxy

on any hinge pivot point, it can be removed by carefully using the tip of your modeling knife to cut it away.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the aileron to the other half of the wing, then pull firmly on each aileron to double-check

that the hinges hold securely.

SECTION 7: WING MOUNTING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage w/Hatch Covers ❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler (W35)

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WING-SCREW DOUBLER

❑ (2) M4 x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled wing-screw mounting holes in the wing. The holes are located 3/4" out from the centerline of the wing and 1" in front of the trailing edge.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the two predrilled holes in the plywood wing-screw doubler, too.

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Page 12

STEP 2: MOUNTING THE WING

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the next procedure, make sure to cut away and remove the covering material from the wing where the wing-screw doubler will be glued into place. This will ensure a strong glue joint.

❑ Glue the wing-screw doubler to the top of the wing, using a thin layer

of 5 minute epoxy. When aligned properly, the predrilled holes in the wing-screw doubler should line up with the predrilled holes in the wing and the back of the wing-screw doubler should be even with the trailing edge of the wing.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the two predrilled wing-screw mounting holes in the top of the fuselage. The holes are located 5/8" behind the wing saddle opening and 7/8" in from the fuselage sides.

✦✦

✦ Before gluing the wing-screw doubler into place in

✦✦

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut notch in the forward bulkhead for the tab

in the plywood wing mounting bracket.

❑ Place the wing onto the wing saddle, push it forward completely,

then push the trailing edge down into place.

Make sure that the tab in the wing mounting bracket tab fully

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engages the notch in the front of the fuselage.

❑ Align the holes in the wing with the preinstalled blind nuts in the wing

mounting block inside the fuselage.

❑ Secure the wing into place, using two M4 x 25mm machine screws

and two M4 flat washers.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ Don't overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the wing.

✦✦

SECTION 8: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator

❑ (6) C/A-Style Hinges (Large)

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the stabilizer mounting slot in each side of the fuselage. The slot is located 3" below the top of the fuselage and is 4" long and 3/16" wide.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, locate and draw a centerline mark on the

trailing edge of the stabilizer.

❑ Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot and temporarily align it.

The stabilizer should be pushed forward as far as possible and the centerline mark you drew on the stabilizer should be lined up with the centerline of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing edge of the

stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

aligned. The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side.

✦✦

✦ The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and

✦✦

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage and secure it into place.

❑ Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between the tips of

the stabilizer assembly and the tips of the wing. Pivot the stabilizer assembly until both of these measurements are equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer is square to the wing.

When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the stabilizer is square to the wing.

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Continued On Next Page

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Page 14

❑ When you're satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a

pencil to draw a mark on each side of the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a T-Pin to hold the stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.

❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front of the

airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.

C=C-1

If the stabilizer is not parallel to the wing, remove it and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher

☞

side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied with the alignment.

STEP 2: MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and carefully apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the gluing surfaces of the

stabilizer, and to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer mounting slot.

❑ Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy

sets up. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use T-Pins to hold the stabilizer in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to draw a line on

each side of the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

❑ Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage and use a modeling knife to

carefully cut away and remove the covering material from between the lines you drew. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

✦✦

✦ When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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Page 15

STEP 3: HINGING THE ELEVATOR

✦✦

✦Important Information About the C/A-Style Hinges Included with Your Big Bee ARF

✦✦

The hinges are not glued into place from the factory. You must glue them into place.

The elevator and rudder are hinged using C/A-style hinges. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not glue these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy.

❑ Push two T-pins through the center of six large C/A-style elevator

hinges, as shown.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

are hinging the elevator.

The elevator is hinged using six large C/A-style hinges.

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✦✦

✦ The T-pins will keep the hinges centered while you

✦✦

✦

✦✦

❑ Slide one hinge into each hinge slot, making sure that you push

each hinge in up to the T-pins. Don't glue the hinges into place yet.

❑ Push the elevator and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The elevator should be pushed firmly up

against the trailing edge, so that there is a minimal hinge gap (no more than 1/32"), and the tips of the elevator should be even with the tips of the stabilizer.

❑ Remove the T-pins from the hinges, and while holding the elevator

tight against the stabilizer, pivot the elevator down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the stabilizer over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line, using C/A Debonder.

☞

❑ Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the elevator up and down several times to free up the hinges.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to pull out the hinges. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

✦✦

✦ After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp the elevator and stabilizer and pull on the elevator like you are trying

✦✦

Page 16

SECTION 9: RUDDER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Rudder ❑ (1) C/A-Style Hinge (Large) ❑ (1) C/A-Style Hinge (Small) ❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Petroleum Jelly or Lightweight Machine Oil ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

❑ Slide the nylon spacer onto the tail wheel axle, followed by the tail wheel. Use the wheel collar and M3 x 5mm machine screw to

hold the tail wheel in place.

❑ (1) Tail Wheel ❑ (1) Nylon Spacer ❑ (1) Wheel Collar ❑ (1) M3 x 5mm Machine Screw

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the covering

material from over the precut groove in the bottom, leading edge of the rudder.

Notice that there is a predrilled hole in the top of the precut groove to

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accept the tail wheel wire.

Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the end of the tail wheel wire (that glues into the rudder) to roughen the surface, then mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to ONLY the end of the tail wheel wire and into ONLY the predrilled hole in the leading edge of the rudder.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

the nylon bearing or the rudder won't pivot right and left. Don't glue the nylon bearing into the groove in the rudder either.

✦✦

✦ Do not get epoxy between the tail wheel wire and the nylon bearing. You don't want to glue the tail wheel wire to

✦✦

❑ Push the tail wheel wire into place, making sure that the nylon

bearing is seated down into the precut groove. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the tail wheel assembly in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ After the epoxy sets up, pivot the nylon bearing back and forth to

check for free movement.

STEP 2: HINGING THE RUDDER

❑ Push two T-pins through the center of the large C/A-style rudder hinge and push one T-Pin through the center of the small

C/A-style rudder hinge.

Continued On Next Page

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Page 17

❑ Slide the large hinge into the upper hinge slot in the rudder and the

small hinge into the lower hinge slot in the rudder, making sure that you push each hinge in up to the T-pins. Don't glue the hinges into

place yet.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut nylon bearing groove in the back edge

of the fuselage.

❑ Use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand each side of the mounting tab on the nylon bearing to roughen the

smooth surface, then apply a thin layer of lightweight oil or petroleum jelly to the pivot point of the nylon bearing to prevent epoxy from gluing the nylon bearing to the tail wheel wire.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to ONLY the mounting tab on the nylon bearing and into the precut

groove in the back edge of the fuselage.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

epoxy to get between the nylon bearing and the precut groove in the leading edge of the rudder. You don't want to glue the rudder to the nylon bearing or the rudder won't pivot right and left.

❑ Allow the C/A and epoxy to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the rudder right and left several times to free up the hinges.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

are trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

✦✦

✦ It's important that when you hinge the rudder to the fuselage in the next few procedures, that you do not allow any

✦✦

❑ Push the rudder and its hinges (including the tab on the nylon

bearing) into the hinge slots in the back of the fuselage. When positioned properly, the bottom of the rudder should be even with the bottom of the fuselage and there should be about a 1/8" wide gap between the rudder counter-balance and the top of the fuselage.

❑ Remove the T-pins from the hinges, and while holding the rudder

tight against the fuselage, pivot the rudder right about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

✦✦

✦ After the C/A and epoxy have fully cured, gently grasp the rudder and fuselage and pull on the rudder like you

✦✦

SECTION 10: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (1) Aluminum Axle Support Tube ❑ (1) Steel Axle ❑ (2) Nylon Spacers

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Wheel Collars ❑ (2) M3 x 5mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Rubber Bands

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AXLE SUPPORT TUBE

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material

from over the precut axle support tube hole in each side of the fuselage. If you look carefully, you should be able to see each oval-shaped hole underneath the covering material.

❑ Slide the aluminum axle support tube through the holes in the fuselage and center it, making sure that each end of the tube is

equal distance from the fuselage sides.

The axle support tube slides through a preinstalled support block inside the fuselage, too.

☞

❑ Secure the axle support tube to the fuselage by looping the two

rubber bands over one end of the axle support tube, stretching them across the bottom of the fuselage and looping them around the other end of the axle support tube.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

bands that hold the axle assembly in place allow the axle assembly to move like a shock absorber. The rubber bands should be tight enough to keep the axle support tube from sliding back and forth, but not so tight that the axle support tube can't be pushed up. It may be necessary to loop one or both rubber bands around the axle support tube twice to achieve the desired results.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AXLE AND WHEELS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

hard-packed dirt. If you will be flying off of grass, we suggest replacing the stock wheels with larger wheels. The larger diameter wheels will make it easier to land and take off on grass runways.

❑ Slide the steel axle through the aluminum axle support tube, making sure that each end of the axle is equal distance from the

ends of the axle support tube.

✦✦

✦ The holes in the fuselage side are oval shaped so that the axle assembly can move up and down. The rubber

✦✦

✦ The wheels included with the Big Bee ARF are suitable for use on hard surfaces, such as concrete, asphalt and

✦✦

✦ Do NOT glue the axle support tube into the fuselage.

✦✦

❑ While keeping the axle centered, carefully slide one nylon spacer

onto each end of the axle and push them up against the ends of the axle support tube.

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Page 19

❑ Slide one main gear wheel onto each end of the axle. Secure the

wheels into place, using two wheel collars and two M3 x 5mm machine screws.

We suggest applying Blue Threadlocker to the machine screws to prevent them from loosening during flight.

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✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ After installing the wheel collars, double-check that both wheels spin freely.

✦✦

SECTION 11: ENGINE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage with the fuselage right-side-up. The engine will be mounted upright.

✦✦

✦ The references in the next few procedures are taken from the consideration that you are looking at the front of

✦✦

❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (4) M3 Blind Nuts ❑ (12) M3 Flat Washers

❑ 5/64", 1/8" & 5/32" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Builder's Triangle (Optional) ❑ Pencil

These instructions show the installation of a two-stroke engine. If you are installing a four-stroke engine, the installation procedures are the same. The main things to be sure of are that your engine is centered on the firewall and that the bottom of your engine does not come into contact with the top of the engine mounting platform.

If you are installing an electric powerplant, you can skip this section entirely, although you may decide to utilize the engine mounting beams and hardware included to install your electric motor.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully measure and draw a vertical

centerline on the front of the firewall.

A builder's triangle makes this much easier and more accurate.

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Page 20

❑ Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your engine's

mounting lugs, using a couple of drops of thick C/A.

The location of the engine is not important at this time. It's more

☞

important that the beams are square to the mounting lugs.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

space of the firewall. This shorter side will mount toward the base of the firewall.

✦✦

✦ Note that the lower mounting bracket on the engine mounting beams has been cut shorter to fit the confined

✦✦

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance between the holes in the two

engine mounting beams.

This distance will vary depending on the width of your engine's

☞

crankcase.

❑ Divide the measurement found in the previous procedure in half.

❑ Measure this resulting distance and draw one vertical line to the right

of the vertical centerline and one vertical line to the left of the vertical centerline.

❑ Set the engine mount/engine assembly up against the firewall and carefully slide a scrap 1/16" thick spacer between the top of

the engine mounting platform and the bottom of the engine mounting brackets.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

bottom of the engine mounting beams.

✦✦

✦ The spacer will ensure that a 1/16" wide gap exists between the top of the engine mounting platform and the

✦✦

❑ Line up the top of the engine mounting brackets with the two outer

vertical lines you drew and make sure that the assembly is pushed down flat against the 1/16" wide spacer.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to carefully mark the

locations of the four mounting holes onto the firewall.

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Page 21

❑ Using a drill with a 5/32" diameter drill bit, drill a hole through the firewall at each of the four marks you drew.

❑ Remove your engine from the mounting beams and install them to

the firewall, using four M3 x 20mm socket-cap screws, four M3 flat washers and four M3 blind nuts. Tighten the screws firmly to draw the blind nuts into the back of the firewall.

STEP 2: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING YOUR ENGINE

❑ Set your engine onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance from the firewall to the front of

your engine's drive washer. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is 4-1/8".

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to move the engine out (to clear the rear-mounted carburetor of a four-stroke engine, for instance) it won't cause any problem.

❑ Using a pencil, mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Remove your engine and carefully drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through the engine mounting beams. Be careful to drill the

holes straight down and not at an angle and don't drill down through the engine mounting platform.

❑ Using a 1/8" diameter drill bit, carefully enlarge the pilot holes you drilled, being careful not to drill down into the engine mounting

platform.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

mounting beams from the firewall.

✦✦

✦ The 4-1/8" distance measurement is not set in stone. Frankly, for this airplane, it's not very critical. If you need

✦✦

✦ In order to install your engine in the next procedure, you will need to temporarily remove the two engine

✦✦

❑ Install your engine to the engine mounting beams, using four

M3 x 25mm socket-cap screws, eight M3 flat washers and four M3 lock nuts.

❑ Reinstall the engine mount assembly onto the firewall and tighten

the four socket-cap screws firmly.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

during flight.

✦✦

✦ We suggest applying Blue Threadlocker to the four socket-cap screws. This will prevent them from loosening

✦✦

Page 22

SECTION 12: FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 240cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Metal Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER

❑ Discard the shortest of the three aluminum tubes. It will not be used.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully smooth and deburr each end of the remaining two aluminum tubes. This will prevent the fuel

tubing from being accidentally cut when it is installed later.

❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing ❑ (3) Aluminum Tubing

❑ Scissors ❑ Ruler ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper. Slide the

large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance that the two aluminum tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly. This distance

should be 3/8". If it is not, adjust the tubes by pushing them forward or backward until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminum tubes up at a 45º angle, being careful not to kink the tubing as you bend it.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

rest just below the top of the tank. The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the center of the fuel tank opening than the bottom of the fuel tank.

❑ Push the M3 x 20mm machine screw through the stopper assembly, from the front, and partially thread it into the small diameter

metal backplate.

✦✦

✦ When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the top of the vent tube (the tube you just bent) should

✦✦

❑ Secure one end of the silicone fuel tubing onto the end of the fuel

pick-up "clunk."

❑ Slide the silicone fuel tubing, with the fuel pick-up attached, onto the

end of the aluminum fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). While holding the aluminum tube in place, adjust the length of the silicone tubing until the fuel pick-up is 3-3/8" back from the rear of the stopper assembly.

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUBBER STOPPER ASSEMBLY

❑ Carefully push the metal neck-reinforcement ring over the neck of

the molded fuel tank opening.

❑ Carefully push the rubber stopper assembly into the fuel tank

opening and rotate the stopper assembly until the aluminum vent tube rests just below the top of the tank.

PRO TIP

tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the inside of the tank.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦ ❑ When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank opening. ❑ With the rubber stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that the fuel pick-up can move freely inside the fuel tank.

Ideally, the fuel pick-up should be about 1/4" in front of the back of the fuel tank.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK

❑ Cut two pieces of silicone fuel tubing to a length of 8" and install them to the aluminum tubes at the front of the tank.

PRO TIP

them to the engine later on.

❑ Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making sure that

the stopper assembly lines up with, and is pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall.

❑ To align the fuel tank properly, the fuel tank should be pushed forward as far as possible and the bottom of the fuel tank should

rest on the fuel tank floor. We placed a piece of 1/4" thick foam rubber between the fuel tank and fuel tank floor.

✦✦

✦ The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the center of the fuel tank opening than the bottom of the fuel tank.

✦✦

Mark the ends of the silicone tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to connect

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold the fuel

SECTION 13: THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

❑ (1) 21-1/2" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of the

fuselage, then secure the fuel tank assembly into place, cut a scrap piece of light plywood and wedge it between the back of the fuel tank and the forward bulkhead.

❑ To keep the fuel tank from moving around, glue the back of the fuel

tank to the scrap piece of light plywood you installed, using a generous amount of silicon sealant.

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector w/Nut & Machine Screw

❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

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✦✦

✦IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THROTTLE PUSHROD SETUP FOR FOUR-STROKE ENGINES

✦✦

The hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod wire has been predrilled from the factory. This hole is positioned to line up with the throttle arm on most two-stroke engines within the specified size range. If you are using a four-stroke engine, the hole will not line up with your engine's throttle arm. In this instance, you will need to redrill the throttle pushrod exit hole through the firewall and the forward bulkhead to suit your engine.

STEP 1: INSTALLING YOUR THROTTLE SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward

the bottom of the servo.

❑ Remove the servo hatch cover from the bottom of the fuselage and set it aside for now.

❑ Install the throttle servo into the cutout that's on the right side of the

fuselage, making sure to first drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the fuselage, as shown.

Note that the servo is mounted through the bottom of the fuselage.

☞

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD WIRE AND ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD CONNECTOR

❑ Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the Z-Bend in

the throttle pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the throttle arm.

You may need to enlarge the hole in your engine's throttle arm, using

☞

a 5/64" diameter drill bit, to accommodate the wire.

❑ Slide the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire into the hole in the

firewall, through the hole in the forward bulkhead, then through the hole in the center bulkhead.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward the front

✦✦

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

throttle arm, but you may still need to make a slight bend in the pushrod wire so that it doesn't bind.

✦✦

✦ The pushrod wire should line up closely with your

✦✦

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Page 25

❑ Install the adjustable pushrod connector into the enlarged hole.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the nut completely. You don't want the adjustable connector loose, but you do want the adjustable connector to be able to rotate without binding.

PRO TIP

before proceeding.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the throttle servo into the receiver. Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is

rotating in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick is moved forward, from the idle to the full throttle position, the servo output shaft should rotate in the correct direction to open your engine's throttle barrel. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter.

❑ Position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter to their lowest positions, then slide the adjustable

pushrod connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

To prevent the connector nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it. Allow the C/A to dry

❑ After making sure that the throttle barrel is in the fully closed

position, angle the servo horn about 45º from center and attach it to the servo output shaft. The pushrod connector should be facing the side of the fuselage, as shown.

✦✦

✦ When threading on the connector nut, don't tighten

✦✦

❑ While holding the throttle barrel fully closed, install and tighten the

machine screw in the top of the adjustable pushrod connector.

❑ Use wire cutters to cut away and remove the excess pushrod wire, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to

hold the servo horn securely to the servo.

❑ Operate the throttle several times to ensure that the pushrod wire does not bind and that the carburetor opens and closes

completely. You may need to adjust your transmitter EPA settings to achieve perfect settings.

SECTION 14: ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 18-3/8" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend

❑ (1) 17-7/8" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small)

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric Drill

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap-Keepers ❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING YOUR ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVOS

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator and rudder servos, making sure to install the collets with the

flanges toward the bottom of the servos.

❑ Install the elevator and rudder servos into the two remaining cutouts

in the plywood servo tray, making sure to first drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

should be toward the back of the fuselage, as shown. Again, the servos are installed through the bottom of the fuselage.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the left side of the

fuselage. The hole is located 2-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 3/8" below the horizontal stabilizer.

✦✦

✦ The left-side servo's output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage and the middle servo's output shaft

✦✦

❑ Install the 90º bend in the 18-3/8" long threaded pushrod wire into

the hole that you just enlarged, using one nylon snap-keeper provided. When installing the snap-keeper, make sure that it "snaps" firmly into place over the pushrod wire.

The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm,

☞

as shown.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the elevator servo (left-side servo) into the receiver. Double-check that the elevator trim

lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.

❑ Carefully slide the threaded end of the pushrod wire into the

preinstalled pushrod housing on the left side of the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo horn onto your servo, making sure that it's centered

and pointing toward the middle of the fuselage.

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Page 27

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROL HORN AND CLEVIS

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom left side of the

elevator. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be about 5/16" out from the side of the fuselage (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the hinge line, too.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64" diameter

pilot holes through the elevator for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 12mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double-check that the servo arm and the elevator are still centered. If the

elevator is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the elevator up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator

and the stabilizer, to hold the elevator centered.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap the clevis

into the third hole out from the base of the control horn.

To make it easier to install the clevis, remove the servo arm from

☞

your servo and pull the pushrod wire back far enough to give yourself enough room to thread the clevis on. Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it from turning while installing the clevis.

✦✦

✦ The rudder pushrod is installed using the same techniques that you used to install the elevator pushrod.

✦✦

❑ Remove all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn and install the 90º bend in the 17-7/8" long threaded pushrod wire into the

hole that is 9/16" out from the center of the remaining servo arm, using the nylon snap-keeper provided.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the right side of the

fuselage. The hole is located 2-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 1-1/4" below the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the rudder servo (middle servo)

into the receiver. Double-check that the rudder trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Carefully slide the threaded end of the pushrod wire into the

preinstalled pushrod housing on the right side of the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo horn onto your servo, making sure that it's centered

and pointing toward the throttle servo.

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Page 28

STEP 5: INSTALLING THE RUDDER CONTROL HORN AND CLEVIS

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the right side of the rudder.

When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be even with the rudder pushrod wire (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the bottom of the rudder, not the hinge line.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64" diameter

pilot holes through the elevator for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 12mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the rudder and double-check that the servo arm and the rudder are still centered. If the rudder

is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the rudder right and left several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder

and the fuselage, to hold the rudder centered.

❑ Thread one nylon clevises onto the pushrod wire and snap the clevis

into the second hole out from the base of the control horn.

To make it easier to install the clevis, remove the servo arm from

☞

SECTION 15: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 3-1/2" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns (Large) ❑ (4) M2 x 10mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler

STEP 1: INSTALLING YOUR AILERON SERVOS

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your two aileron servos, making sure to install the collets with the flanges

toward the bottom of the servos.

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap-Keepers

❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups ❑ Global Heat Gun

Continued On Next Page

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Page 29

❑ Plug one 12" servo extension onto each of the aileron servo leads.

❑ To prevent the servo leads from pulling apart during assembly,

or worse, during flight, secure the plugs together, using a short piece of 3/8" diameter heat-shrink tubing.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the two precut aileron servo lead exit holes in the

bottom of the wing. The holes are located 7/8" out from the centerline of the wing and 7" behind the leading edge.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the covering

material from over the two aileron servo trays in the bottom of the wing. One servo tray is located in each wing tip panel, 4-1/4" in front of the aileron hinge line and 1-3/4" out from the wing tip panel glue joint.

❑ Working with one aileron servo for now, run the servo extension lead through the wing from within the servo tray and out the

servo lead exit hole, using the length of string that's been preinstalled through the wing.

❑ Install your aileron servo into the servo tray, making sure to first drill

1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

edge of the wing, as shown.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron servo

into the other wing tip panel.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHRODS

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of

the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the 90º bend in one 3-1/2" long threaded pushrod wire into

the hole that you just enlarged, using the nylon snap-keeper provided. When installing the snap-keeper, make sure that it "snaps" firmly into place over the pushrod wire.

The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm,

☞

as shown.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward the trailing

✦✦

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Page 30

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of one aileron. When

aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 2-1/4" out from the inside edge of the aileron (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the hinge line, too.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

covering material that the control horn mounts to.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through ONLY the bottom of the aileron for the

control horn mounting screws. Do not drill through the top of the aileron.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

strongly suggest you apply a drop or two of 5 minute epoxy to the screws before threading them into place. The epoxy will ensure that the screws never come loose.

❑ Install the control horn to the aileron, using two M2 x 10mm wood screws. ❑ Connect your radio system and plug one aileron servo into the receiver. Double-check that the aileron trim lever on your

transmitter is centered.

✦✦

✦ Because the control horn mounting screws thread directly into a plywood plate, without any backplate, we

✦✦

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the aileron

and the wing, to hold the aileron centered.

❑ Install the aileron pushrod assembly, using the same techniques

that you used to install the elevator and rudder pushrod assemblies. When installed, the servo arm should point toward the wing tip and the nylon clevis should be installed in the third hole out from the base of the control horn.

✦✦

✦ There is a preinstalled plywood block under the

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ Remove the masking tape from the aileron and double-check that the servo arm and the aileron are still centered. If the aileron is not

centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the aileron up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind.

❑ Repeat the previous steps and procedures to install the second aileron pushrod and control horn assembly.

✦✦

✦ Don't forget to install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn into place.

✦✦

SECTION 16: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Clear Molded Windshield ❑ (2) Clear Molded Side Window Sets

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits

❑ (2) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (1) Decal Set

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE HATCH COVER

❑ Set the servo hatch cover into place and align it with the bottom of

the fuselage.

❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill two pilot holes through

the hatch cover for the mounting screws. Position each hole 1/2" in from the fuselage sides and 3/16" in front of the back edge of the hatch cover.

❑ Secure the servo hatch cover to the fuselage, using two M2 x 10mm

flange-head wood screws.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD AND SIDE WINDOWS

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the windshield along the molded scribe line.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the

edges of the windshield smooth and straight.

❑ Position the windshield onto the fuselage and align it. When aligned

properly, the top edge of the windshield should be even with the top of the wing mounting platform and the molded angles in the windshield should fit around the angles in the front of the wing mounting platform. The sides and base of the windshield should fit flush against the sides and the curved top of the fuselage, too.

Look from the sides and front of the fuselage to double-check that

☞

the windshield is centered.

❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, carefully glue the windshield into place, using a thin layer of Pacer Formula 560

Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue before it dries, using a paper towel soaked with water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the windshield in place until the glue fully cures.

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the twelve individual

side windows, along the outermost scribe line.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the

edges of each of the side windows smooth.

Continued On Next Page

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Page 32

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the six precut window mounting holes below the

wing saddle, in each side of the fuselage.

PRO TIP

cutouts, using black paint. This will clean up the appearance of the windows after they're glued into place.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

STEP 3: INSTALLING YOUR ENGINE ACCESSORIES

Before gluing the windows into place in the next procedure, you may want to paint the exposed edges of the window

❑ Test-fit and glue each of the molded clear windows into place, using

a thin layer of Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue before it dries, using a paper towel soaked with water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the windows in place until the glue fully cures.

✦✦

✦ The side windows are glued into place from inside the fuselage.

✦✦

❑ Install your muffler onto your engine, then cut to length and connect

the fuel lines to the carburetor and muffler pressure tap. Make sure that the vent line goes to the pressure tap.

❑ Install your propeller, making sure to balance the propeller before

installing it.

STEP 4: INSTALLING YOUR RECEIVER, BATTERY PACK AND SWITCH

PRO TIP

airplane initially balances will determine where you need to mount the receiver and battery.

❑ Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold the foam

in place.

Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.

☞

❑ After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery, mount them into the fuselage, using your favorite method. Strips

of Velcro® work well or sandwich them in place using a couple of scraps of balsa wood glued between the fuselage sides.

We don't suggest permanently installing the receiver and battery until you have balanced the airplane. How the

❑ After installing the receiver, drill a 5/64" diameter hole through the

fuselage floor for the antenna to exit. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully make an antenna mount out of

an extra servo horn. Remove one of the arms and cut it into the shape shown.

❑ Use the modified servo arm and a rubber band to secure the end of

the antenna to the tail wheel wire.

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Page 33

❑ Mount the switch to the fuselage side (opposite the muffler) and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch and servo

leads to the receiver.

SECTION 17: BALANCING THE BIG BEE ARF

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Ruler

❑ Masking Tape

✦✦

✦

✦✦

IMPORTANT

and crash!

✦✦

✦

✦✦

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control

Center of Gravity Location:

5" - 6" (127mm-152mm) back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

WARNING

FOR TEST-FLYING WE SUGGEST YOU START WITH THE C/G AT 5-1/2" (140MM), then move it farther back as you

become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C/G be located any farther

back than 6" (152mm).

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage, then apply two short pieces of masking tape onto the bottom of the wing, 5-1/2" (140mm)

back from the leading edge, measured at the fuselage sides.

❑ Place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy.

To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C/G location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or aft within

☞

the C/G range to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

This is the recommended C/G range.

✦✦

✦ Balance the Big Bee ARF with the fuel tank empty and the airplane fully assembled.

✦✦

DO NOT FLY THE AIRPLANE BEYOND THE RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE OR AN

SECTION 18: LATERAL BALANCING THE BIG BEE ARF

Lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter in the air. It is strongly recommended.

☞

❑ Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and one length of string to the tail wheel wire.

❑ With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the

wing drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of the lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible, but make sure to apply the lead to a solid portion of the wing structure, not to the covering material over an open structural bay or the weight will rip off during flight.

❑ Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should stay level

when you lift the airplane.

UNCONTROLLABLE CRASH COULD RESULT!

Page 34

SECTION 19: CONTROL THROWS

The control throws listed in this section are for test-flying and general sport-flying. If you want the airplane to be more aerobatic and responsive, we suggest increasing the control throws in small amounts until you find your desired settings.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 1" (25mm) Up & 1" (25mm) Down

Elevator: 1-1/4" (32mm) Up & 1-1/4" (32mm) Down

Rudder: 1-1/2" (38mm) Right & 1-1/2" (38mm) Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦ ✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the clear tubing provided and sliding one piece over each clevis. The tubing will prevent any chance of the clevises opening during flight.

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful. If you want to increase the control throws, increase them in small amounts, until you're satisfied with the flight characteristics.

✦✦

✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦ After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest cutting 1/4" lengths

✦✦

✦ Increasing the control throws beyond those recommended for sport-flying will cause the airplane to be

✦✦

Ailerons: 1-1/2" (38mm) Up & 1-1/2" (38mm) Down

Elevator: 1-3/4" (44mm) Up & 1-3/4" (44mm) Down

Rudder: 3" (76mm) Right & 3" (76mm) Left

SPORT-FLYING

WARNING ABOUT THROTTLE MANAGEMENT

It is very important that you understand throttle management. In a nutshell, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter and/or airframe failure. When the nose of the airplane drops, decrease the throttle.

SECTION 20: REPLACEMENT PARTS

We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer.

If your dealer does not stock Clancy Aviation products, you can order replacement parts

directly from us, using the Customer Service Information on page # 3.

Big Bee ARF - Complete ................................................222212

Instruction Manual ......................................................... 221984

Fuselage Set .................................................................. 221985

Stabilizer Set w/Rudder ................................................. 221986

Wing Set w/Aluminum Joiners ....................................... 221987

Windshield and Side Windows ...................................... 221988

Main Gear Assembly w/Wheels..................................... 221989

Tail Wheel Assembly ...................................................... 221990

Fuel Tank Assemby (240cc) .......................................... 221991

Engine Mount Set .......................................................... 221992

Hardware Set ................................................................. 221993

Decal Set ....................................................................... 221994

Page 35

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Clancy Aviation Big Bee ARF # 222212

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

6) Were any of the kit parts:

Cut Along Dotted Line

❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?

❑ Yes ❑ No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?

❑ Better ❑ As Good

What is Your Age Group:

❑ 10 & Under ❑ 11 - 20 ❑ 21 - 30 ❑ 31 - 40 ❑ 41 - 50 ❑ 51 - 60 ❑ 61 - 70 ❑ 71 +

How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby?

❑ Less than 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 11 - 15 ❑ 16 - 20 ❑ 20 or More

How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year?

❑ 0 - 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 10 or More

Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ______________________

_____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________

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_____________________________ _____________________________ _____________________________

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Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610

Fold along dotted line

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without proper

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