Citroën BX 1997 User Manual

2C
Chapter 2 Part C:
K1G engine
Specifications are as for the type 150 engine (see Chapter 2A) except for the following:
General
Model application:
BX 14 after August 1988 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K1G
Valves
Valve clearance (cold):
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm
Valve timing
Inlet opens* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º14’ BTDC
Inlet closes* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39º 45’ ABDC
Exhaust opens* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54º 30’ BBDC
Exhaust closes* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 45’ BTDC
*With valve clearance of 0.7 mm
Crankshaft
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.052 to 0.452 mm
Cylinder liners
Protrusion from block - without seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.10 mm
Protrusion difference between liners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm
Lubrication system
Oil pressure at 90ºC (194ºF):
650 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 bar
4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 bar
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104
Oil capacity - with filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres (6.2 pints)
Dipstick minimum to maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litres (2.5 pints)
Camshaft drivebelt - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - dismantling, decarbonising, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cylinder liners - checking protrusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Engine - complete dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine - complete reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Engine dismantling - ancillary items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Engine - preparation for reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine - reconnection to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine - separation from transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Oil filter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Valve rocker clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2C•1
Specifications
Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
5
4
3
2
1
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Crankshaft pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 74
Camshaft sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 59
Big-end bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 28
Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 48
Clutch pressure plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Distributor/fuel pump housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Camshaft thrust fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
Thermostat housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Main bearing cap casting main bearing bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 45º
Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Main bearing cap casting to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Coolant pump housing:
8 mm bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 22
6 mm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 37
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 240º
Timing belt tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15
Timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4
Dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 21
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The K1G engine is fitted to all Citroën BX 14 models after August 1988. It is an all-alloy unit and although the dimensions, clearances and tolerances are similar to those of the type 150C engine dealt with in Chapter 2A, there are several major differences. These differences include the camshaft drive, which is of toothed belt type, and the oil pump, which is chain-driven from the crankshaft.
Precautions
Because of the unusual layout of the engine and transmission systems, extra care and attention are necessary during maintenance and overhaul procedures which, in many instances, differ from more conventional systems.
Read through the various Sections concerned before tackling any job, and analyse the instructions, so that any snags or possible difficulties can be noted in advance. Because the sub-assembly castings are made from aluminium alloy it is of utmost importance that, where specified, all fastenings are tightened to the correct torque and, in some instances, in the correct sequence.
2 Oil filter - removal and refitting
2
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 9.
3 Major operations possible
with engine in vehicle
Note: Since the sump and cylinder head can
be removed in situ, it is possible to renew the pistons, liners and big-end bearings without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended, since the tasks can be performed more easily with the engine removed
The following components can be removed
and refitted with the engine in the vehicle:
a) Timing belt and camshaft b) Cylinder head c) Sump and oil pump d) Clutch and flywheel (after removal of
gearbox)
4 Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed for the
following operations:
a) Removal and refitting of the transmission b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
and main bearings
c) Removal and refitting of the piston and
connecting rod assemblies - see Note, Section 3
d) Renewal of the big-end bearings - see
Note, Section 3
5 Valve rocker clearances -
checking and adjustment
3
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
6 Camshaft drivebelt - removal
and refitting
3
Note: If there is the slightest doubt about the condition of the timing belt then it must be renewed. Note: The following operation can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the hydraulic pump (outer) and the
alternator (inner) drivebelts. 3 Remove the rocker cover and remove the rubber gasket from the cover (see
illustrations). 4 Remove the two spacers and baffle plate from the studs (see illustrations). 5 Unbolt the upper timing cover, followed by the intermediate cover and lower cover (see illustrations). 6 Turn the engine clockwise, using a socket
on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the small hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head. Insert the shank of a close-fitting twist drill into the holes (see illustration). 7 Align the TDC holes in the flywheel and cylinder block rear flange, then insert a further twist drill or long bolt (see illustration).
2C•2 K1G engine
8 Loosen the timing belt tensioner roller nut (see illustration), turn the tensioner clockwise
using a screwdriver or square drive in the special hole, then re-tighten the nut. 9 Mark the normal direction of rotation on the
timing belt, then remove it from the camshaft, coolant pump, and crankshaft sprockets.
Refitting
Caution: Take care not to kink or
contaminate the timing belt with oil
10 Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket then, keeping it taut, feed it onto the camshaft sprocket, around the tensioner pulley, and onto the coolant pump sprocket. 11 Loosen the nut and turn the tensioner roller anti-clockwise by hand. Tighten the nut. 12 Citroën dealers use the special tool shown (see illustration) to tension the timing belt. A similar tool may be fabricated using an
8.0 cm long arm and a 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) weight. The torque applied to the roller will approximate 12 Kgf (10.5 lbf in). Pre-tension the timing belt with the tool and tighten the nut, then remove the timing pins and rotate the crankshaft through two complete turns. Loosen the nut and allow the roller to re-position itself. Tighten the nut. 13 If the special tool is not available, an approximate setting may be achieved by turning the roller hub anti-clockwise, until it is
K1G engine 2C•3
2C
6.3a Removing a rocker cover nut 6.3b Removing rocker cover gasket 6.4a Remove rocker cover spacers (arrowed) . . .
6.6 Camshaft sprocket held at TDC 6.7 Using long bolt (arrowed) to align TDC holes in flywheel and cylinder block
6.5c Removing intermediate timing cover 6.5d Removing lower timing cover
6.8 Loosening timing belt tensioner roller nut
6.4b . . . and baffle plate 6.5a Unbolting upper timing cover 6.5b Removing upper timing cover
just possible to turn the timing belt through 90º by finger and thumb midway between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. The square in the roller hub should then be directly below the adjustment nut, and the deflection of the belt in the midway position should be approximately 6.0 mm. If using this method, the tension should be re-checked by a Citroën dealer at the earliest opportunity. 14 Refit the lower, intermediate, and upper timing covers, then tighten the bolts (see
illustration). 15 Adjust the valve clearances. 16 Refit the baffle plate with its edges
pointing downwards, followed by the two spacers. 17 Fit the rubber gasket to the rocker cover, locate the cover in position and tighten the nuts. 18 Refit and tension the hydraulic pump and the alternator drivebelts.
19 Reconnect the battery earth lead.
7 Cylinder head - removal and
refitting
3
Note: The following operation can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle Note: Illustrations for paragraphs 21 to 26 inclusive can be found in Section 6
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the air cleaner. 4 Disconnect the choke and throttle cables
from the carburettor.
5 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe. 6 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, unbolt the lead support (see illustration), disconnect the HT lead from the
coil, and remove the distributor cap. Remove the spark plugs. 7 Disconnect the vacuum hose between the distributor and carburettor. 8 Disconnect the hoses between the fuel pump and carburettor (beware of fuel spillage and take adequate fire precautions) and between the coolant pump and thermostat housing (see illustration).
9 Unscrew the nuts and remove the inlet manifold complete with carburettor from the studs on the cylinder head (see illustration). Note that there is no gasket. 10 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump and remove the gasket. 11 Loosen the alternator pivot and adjustment bolts, then unscrew the tension bolt and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. Remove the pivot and adjustment bolts then remove the alternator (see illustration). 12 Unbolt the pulley from the front of the crankshaft (see illustration).
13 Unbolt and remove the coil (see illustration) after unclipping the TDC sensor
connector.
2C•4 K1G engine
7.6 Unbolting HT lead support
6.14 Timing cover correctly refitted
7.8 Water pump hose (arrowed) at thermostat housing
7.9 Removing inlet manifold complete with carburettor
6.12 Using special tool (0132X) to tension timing belt
14 Unbolt the exhaust manifold hot air
shroud. 15 Unscrew the brass nuts, remove the washers and remove the exhaust manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. Remove the gaskets.
16 Remove the distributor. 17 Remove the thermostat, then unbolt the
thermostat housing from the cylinder head
(see illustration). 18 Unbolt the distributor mounting flange from the cylinder head (see illustration). 19 Unbolt the TDC sensor from the flywheel
end of the cylinder block and unclip the lead from the timing plate (see illustration).
20 Unbolt and remove the timing plate (see illustration). 21 Unscrew the nuts and remove the rocker
cover. Remove the rubber gasket from the cover.
22 Remove the two spacers and baffle plate from the studs. 23 Unbolt the upper timing cover, followed by the intermediate cover and lower cover. 24 Turn the engine clockwise, using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the small hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head. Insert the shank of a close-fitting twist drill into the holes. 25 Align the TDC holes in the flywheel and cylinder block rear flange, then insert a further twist drill or long bolt. 26 Loosen the timing belt tensioner roller nut, turn the tensioner clockwise using a screwdriver or square drive in the special hole, then re-tighten the nut. 27 Mark the normal direction of rotation on the timing belt, then remove it from the
camshaft, coolant pump, and crankshaft sprockets. 28 Unscrew the tensioner nut and remove the tensioner roller. 29 Progressively loosen the cylinder head bolts using the reverse sequence to that shown for tightening, then remove all the bolts.
30 Lift off the rocker arm assembly (see illustration). 31 Rock the cylinder head to free it from the
block, then lift it from the location dowels. The two angled metal rods shown may be used for this purpose (see illustrations). 32 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 33 Fit liner clamps (see Section 16 in Part A of this Chapter) if it is not proposed to remove the pistons and liners.
K1G engine 2C•5
2C
7.11 Alternator pivot (A) adjuster (B) and tensioner (C) bolts
7.12 Unbolting crankshaft pulley 7.13 Ignition coil (arrowed) located above distributor
7.20 Timing plate (arrowed) 7.30 Removing rocker arm assembly 7.31a Using two metal rods to free cylinder head from cylinder block
7.17 Removing thermostat housing 7.18 Distributor mounting flange retaining bolts (arrowed)
7.19 TDC sensor mounting bolt (arrowed)
Refitting
34 Clean the cylinder head and block joint faces thoroughly. Also clean the cylinder head bolt holes. 35 Locate the new cylinder head gasket on the block dowels, with the manufacturer’s name uppermost (see illustration). 36 Align the TDC holes in the flywheel and block rear flange and insert a twist drill or long bolt. 37 Align the small hole in the camshaft sprocket with the hole in the cylinder head and insert a twist drill or bolt (see
illustration). 38 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so
that it engages the two dowels.
39 Refit the rocker arm assembly. 40 Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads
and heads with molybdenum disulphide grease. Insert them and tighten to the initial torque using the sequence shown (see
illustration). 41 Using the same sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified angle (see illustration). 42 Refit the timing belt tensioner roller, turn it
clockwise and tighten the nut. 43 Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket then, keeping it taut, feed it onto the camshaft sprocket, around the tensioner
pulley, and onto the coolant pump sprocket. 44 Loosen the nut and turn the tensioner roller anti-clockwise by hand. Tighten the nut. 45 Citroën dealers use the special tool shown in illustration 6.12 to tension the timing belt. A similar tool may be fabricated using an 8.0 cm long arm and a 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) weight. The torque applied to the roller will approximate 12 Kgf (10.5 lbf in). Pre-tension the timing belt with the tool and tighten the nut, then remove the timing pins and rotate the crankshaft through two complete turns. Loosen the nut and allow the roller to re-position itself. Tighten the nut. 46 If the special tool is not available, an approximate setting may be achieved by turning the roller hub anti-clockwise, until it is just possible to turn the timing belt through 90º by finger and thumb midway between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. The square in the roller hub should then be directly below the adjustment nut, and the deflection of the belt in the midway position should be approximately 6.0 mm. If using this method, the tension should be re-checked by a Citroën dealer at the earliest opportunity. 47 Refit the lower, intermediate, and upper timing covers, then tighten the bolts - see Section 6.
48 Adjust the valve clearances.
49 Refit the baffle plate with its edges
pointing downwards, followed by the two spacers. 50 Fit the rubber gasket to the rocker cover, locate the cover in position and tighten the nuts. 51 Refit the timing plate and tighten the bolts. 52 Refit the TDC sensor and tighten the bolt. Fix the lead in the plastic clip on the timing plate. Note that the main body of the TDC sensor should be 1.0 mm from the flywheel. 53 Apply jointing compound to the distributor mounting flange, then refit it to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts. 54 Apply jointing compound to the thermostat housing, then refit it to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
55 Refit the thermostat. 56 Refit the distributor. 57 Refit the exhaust manifold together with
new gaskets. Refit the nuts and washers, and tighten securely. 58 Refit the exhaust manifold hot air shroud and tighten the bolts. 59 Locate the coil and bracket over the distributor and tighten the bolts. 60 Position the pulley on the front of the crankshaft. Insert and tighten the bolts.
2C•6 K1G engine
7.31b Lifting cylinder head from cylinder block
7.35 Cylinder head gasket correctly located
7.37 Camshaft sprocket held at TDC using twist drill
7.40 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 7.41 Angle-tightening cylinder head bolts
61 Refit the alternator and insert the pivot
and adjustment bolts. Slip the drivebelt onto the pulleys and tighten the tension bolt until the deflection of the belt midway between the pulleys is approximately 6.0 mm under firm thumb pressure. Tighten the pivot and adjustment bolts. 62 Refit the fuel pump with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. 63 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the inlet manifold and cylinder head and apply jointing compound. 64 Refit the inlet manifold complete with carburettor and tighten the nuts. 65 Reconnect the hose between the fuel pump and carburettor and tighten the clips. 66 Reconnect the vacuum hose between the distributor and carburettor.
67 Refit and tighten the spark plugs. 68 Refit the HT leads and distributor cap. 69 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe. 70 Reconnect the choke and throttle cables
to the carburettor.
71 Refit the air cleaner. 72 Replenish the cooling system. 73 Reconnect the battery.
8 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 The engine/transmission is removed by lifting it upwards out of engine compartment.
2 Remove the bonnet. 3 Remove the battery. 4 Raise the front of the car, and support it
securely on axle stands placed under the body sill jacking points.
5 Drain the cooling system. 6 Drain the engine oil. 7 Drain the transmission oil. 8 Disconnect the choke and throttle cables from the carburettor (see illustration). 9 Remove the air cleaner. 10 Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
fuel pump, and the return hose from the T­union.
11 Remove the radiator. 12 Remove both driveshafts. 13 Unbolt and remove the front downpipe
from the exhaust manifold, and also the front section of the exhaust system, noting the support bracket on the transmission. 14 Pull out the rubber cotter pin and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission (see illustration). 15 Disconnect the gearchange control rods by prising the sockets off the balljoints with an open-ended spanner (see illustration). 16 Remove the bolt from the engine rear mounting (see illustration). 17 Unbolt the rear mounting yoke and the driveshaft support bearing bracket, then remove them. 18 Release the clips which hold the suspension levelling pipeline to the underside of the engine and transmission. 19 Loosen the mounting and belt adjuster link bolts on the hydraulic pump and remove the drivebelt. 20 Set the suspension height control lever in the “low” position and then gently release the screw on the hydraulic pressure regulator through one turn (see illustration). 21 Disconnect the small pipe union on the hydraulic pressure regulator and the one on
K1G engine 2C•7
2C
8.15 Using an open-ended spanner
(arrowed) to disconnect a gearchange rod
balljoint
8.16 Engine rear mounting and yoke 8.20 Hydraulic pressure regulator
A Pipe union B Pressure relief screw
8.8 Carburettor connections
A Choke cable B Throttle cable
C Distributor vacuum
hose
8.14 Speedometer cable rubber cotter pin (arrowed)
the security valve. Release the fixing clips and withdraw the disconnected section of pipeline from below the car, noting carefully its routing. 22 Unbolt the hydraulic pump/regulator assembly from the cylinder block bracket (see
illustration). 23 Raise the assembly and rest it on the
crossmember with the hydraulic flexible hose still connected. 24 Disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever on the transmission (see
illustration). 25 Disconnect the heater hoses from the
engine. 26 Disconnect the heater hose from the carburettor (see illustration). 27 Disconnect the earth cables from the transmission casing (see illustration).
28 Disconnect the wiring from the alternator and the plug which serves the temperature switch, oil pressure switch and reversing light switch (see illustration). 29 Connect a suitable hoist to the engine lifting eyes and take the weight of the engine/transmission. 30 Unscrew the through-bolt of the left-hand mounting, then unbolt and remove the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 31 Unscrew the through-bolt from the right-hand engine mounting (see illustration). 32 Swivel the engine/transmission so that the transmission faces towards the left-hand front corner of the engine compartment. 33 Raise the hoist slowly and lift the engine/transmission out of the engine compartment (see illustration). 34 The transmission can be separated from
the engine after removing the following components:
a) Starter motor b) TDC sensor c) Flywheel cover plate d) Reversing light switch lead connections
35 Undo and remove the clutch bellhousing-to-engine bolts.
Refitting
36 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but observe the following points:
a) Use a plastic protective sleeve to prevent
damage to the oil seal lips when fitting the
right-hand driveshaft b) Adjust the clutch cable c) Refill the engine and transmission with oil d) Refill the cooling system e) Tension the drivebelts
2C•8 K1G engine
8.22 Unbolting hydraulic pump/regulator assembly
8.24 Clutch cable connection at release lever
8.26 Heater hose connection at carburettor (arrowed)
8.30b Removing left-hand engine mounting bracket
8.31 Right-hand engine mounting through­bolt (arrowed)
8.33 Lifting engine/transmission unit from vehicle
8.27 Earth cables at transmission (arrowed)
8.28 Temperature switch/oil pressure switch/reversing light switch wiring
connector (arrowed)
8.30a Left-hand engine mounting through­bolt (arrowed)
f) Top-up the hydraulic system g) The use of self-locking pliers will facilitate
reconnection of the gearchange rod balljoints (see illustration)
9 Engine dismantling - general
information
Refer to Section 8 in Part A of this Chapter.
10 Engine dismantling - ancillary
items
Refer to Section 9 in Part A of this Chapter.
11 Engine - separation from
transmission
4
Refer to Section 10 in Part A of this Chapter.
12 Engine - complete dismantling
4
1 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, unbolt the lead support, disconnect the HT lead from the coil, and remove the distributor cap. Remove the spark plugs. 2 Disconnect the vacuum hose between the distributor and carburettor. 3 Disconnect the hoses between the fuel pump and carburettor (beware of fuel spillage and take adequate fire precautions) and between the coolant pump and thermostat housing. 4 Unscrew the nuts and remove the inlet manifold complete with carburettor from the studs on the cylinder head. Note that there is no gasket.
5 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump, then remove the gasket. 6 Loosen the alternator pivot and adjustment bolts, then unscrew the tension bolt and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. Remove the pivot and adjustment bolts, then remove the alternator. 7 Unbolt the pulley from the front of the crankshaft. 8 Unbolt and remove the coil after unclipping the TDC sensor connector.
9 Unbolt the exhaust manifold hot air shroud. 10 Unscrew the brass nuts, remove the
washers and remove the exhaust manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. Remove the gaskets.
11 Remove the distributor. 12 Remove the thermostat, then unbolt the
thermostat housing from the cylinder head. 13 Unbolt the distributor mounting flange from the cylinder head. 14 Unbolt the TDC sensor from the flywheel end of the cylinder block and unclip the lead from the timing plate.
15 Unbolt and remove the timing plate. 16 Unscrew and remove the oil filter, using a
strap wrench if necessary. 17 Unscrew and remove the oil pressure switch. 18 Unscrew the mounting bolt and pull the
engine oil dipstick holder from the main bearing cap casting. Remove the dipstick from the holder (see illustration). 19 Unscrew the nuts and remove the rocker cover. Remove the rubber gasket from the cover. 20 Remove the two spacers and baffle plate from the studs. 21 Unbolt the upper timing cover, followed by the intermediate cover and lower cover. 22 Turn the engine clockwise, using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the small hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head. Insert the shank of a close-fitting twist drill into the holes. 23 Align the TDC holes in the flywheel and cylinder block rear flange, then insert a further twist drill or long bolt. 24 Loosen the timing belt tensioner roller nut, turn the tensioner clockwise using a screwdriver or square drive in the special hole, then re-tighten the nut. 25 Mark the normal direction of rotation on the timing belt, then remove it from the camshaft, coolant pump, and crankshaft sprockets. 26 Unscrew the tensioner nut and remove the tensioner roller. 27 Progressively loosen the cylinder head bolts using the reverse sequence to that shown, then remove all the bolts.
28 Lift off the rocker arm assembly. 29 Rock the cylinder head to free it from the
block, then lift it from the location dowels. Two angled metal rods may be used for this purpose. 30 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 31 Fit liner clamps (see Section 16 in Part A of this Chapter) if it is not proposed to remove the pistons and liners. 32 Progressively loosen the clutch pressure plate bolts and remove the pressure plate and friction disc from the flywheel (see illustration).
K1G engine 2C•9
2C
8.36 Reconnecting a gearchange rod balljoint
12.18 Unbolting dipstick holder upper mounting 12.32 Removing clutch pressure plate and friction disc
33 Unbolt the coolant pump housing from
the side of the block and prise out the O-ring. 34 Have an assistant hold the flywheel stationary with a wide-bladed screwdriver inserted between the starter ring gear teeth,
then unscrew the crankshaft sprocket bolt and remove the hub/sprocket and timing belt guide plate (see illustrations). 35 Using a screwdriver, prise the front oil seal from the block and main bearing casting
(see illustration). 36 Hold the flywheel stationary and unscrew
the flywheel bolts. Lift the flywheel from the dowel on the crankshaft rear flange. 37 Prise out the crankshaft rear oil seal using a screwdriver. 38 Invert the engine and support it on blocks of wood. 39 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the sump to the main bearing casting, then remove it by carefully prising it free of the jointing compound (see illustration). 40 Unbolt the oil pump and tilt it to release the drive sprocket from the chain (see
illustrations).
41 Support the block on its flywheel end. 42 Mark the liners for position, starting with
No 1 (at the flywheel end). Similarly mark the big-end bearing caps. 43 Temporarily refit the crankshaft sprocket bolt and turn the crankshaft so that Nos 1 and 4 pistons are at bottom dead centre (BDC). 44 Unscrew the nuts and remove the big-end bearing caps (see illustration). Remove the lower big-end shells, keeping them identified for position. 45 Remove the clamps and withdraw the liners, complete with pistons, from the block
(see illustration). 46 Remove the liner bottom O-rings. 47 Repeat the procedure for Nos 2 and 3
pistons and liners. 48 Invert the engine again and unscrew the bolts securing the main bearing cap casting to the block (see illustrations).
2C•10 K1G engine
12.34a Removing crankshaft sprocket bolt . . .
12.34b . . . the hub/sprocket . . . 12.34c . . . and timing belt guide plate
12.44 Removing a big-end bearing cap 12.45 Removing a liner/piston assembly 12.48a Unscrew main bearing cap casting front bolts . . .
12.39 Removing the sump 12.40a Unscrew oil pump retaining bolts . . .
12.40b . . . and remove oil pump
12.35 Prising out crankshaft front oil seal
49 Progressively unscrew the main bearing
bolts and lift the main bearing cap casting from the block. Gently tap it with a wooden or soft-headed mallet to release it. Prise out the
main bearing shells, keeping them identified for location. 50 Remove the oil pump sprocket and chain from the crankshaft (see illustration).
51 Lift the crankshaft from the block and remove the main bearing shells, keeping them identified for location. Also remove the endfloat thrustwashers from No 2 main bearing location (see illustrations).
13 Engine - examination and
renovation
4
General information
1 Refer to Section 12 in Part A of this Chapter.
Camshaft drivebelt
2 The drivebelt should be renewed when the engine is overhauled, or if it has become contaminated with oil. There is no specified renewal mileage. When handling the timing belt, do not bend it sharply as this may damage the internal fibres.
Camshaft
3 Refer to Section 12 in Part A of this Chapter but note that there is no camshaft lubrication manifold, as the camshaft runs in an oil bath.
All other components
4 Refer to Section 12 in Part A of this Chapter.
14 Cylinder head - dismantling,
decarbonising, inspection and reassembly
4
Dismantling
1 Remove the twist drill from the camshaft sprocket, then hold the sprocket stationary using an oil filter strap wrench or tool as shown. Unscrew the bolt and remove the sprocket (see illustrations).
2 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrust fork (see illustration). 3 Prise out the oil seal, and carefully withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head (see illustrations).
K1G engine 2C•11
2C
12.48b . . . and side bolts (arrowed) 12.50 Removing oil pump chain from crankshaft
12.51a Removing a main bearing shell . . . 12.51b . . . and endfloat thrustwasher
14.2 Camshaft thrust fork (arrowed)14.1c . . . and remove bolt, washer and
sprocket - note location peg and cut-out
(arrowed)
14.1a Using home-made tool to hold camshaft sprocket stationary
14.1b Unscrew camshaft sprocket bolt . . .
14.3a Prise out camshaft oil seal . . .
4 Remove the valves and springs, keeping
them in order by inserting them in a card having suitable holes punched in it, numbered from 1 to 8. Discard the valve stem oil seals (see illustrations).
Decarbonising
5 Refer to Section 13 in Part A of this Chapter.
Inspection
6 Refer to Section 13 in Part A of this Chapter.
Reassembly
7 Refit the valves and springs with reference to Section 13 in Part A of this Chapter. 8 Oil the camshaft bearings and insert the camshaft into the cylinder head. 9 Refit the camshaft thrust fork, and tighten the bolt. 10 Dip the new oil seal in oil then press it into the cylinder head until flush, using a metal tube or large socket and hammer. 11 Refit the camshaft sprocket so that the location peg enters the cut-out. Insert and tighten the bolt while holding the sprocket stationary, using the method described in paragraph 1.
15 Engine reassembly - general
information
Refer to Section 14 in Part A of this Chapter.
16 Engine - preparation for
reassembly
3
Refer to Section 15 in Part A of this Chapter.
17 Cylinder liners - checking
protrusion
3
Refer to Section 16 in Part A of this Chapter.
18 Engine - complete reassembly
4
Note: Maintain conditions of absolute cleanliness when reassembling the engine
Crankshaft
1 With the cylinder block upside-down on the bench, press the main bearing upper shells into position. Note that the grooved bearings are fitted to positions No 2 and 4. 2 Smear a little grease on the thrustwashers and locate them each side of No 2 bearing with their grooves facing outwards. 3 Oil the bearings and lower the crankshaft into position (see illustration). 4 Check that the crankshaft endfloat is as given in the Specifications, using a feeler blade between a thrustwasher and the crankshaft web. The thrustwashers are
available in four thicknesses. 5 Fit the oil pump sprocket and chain to the front of the crankshaft, locating the sprocket on the Woodruff key. 6 Press the main bearing lower shells into position in the main bearing cap casting, noting that the grooved bearings are fitted to positions No 2 and 4. 7 Apply jointing compound to the mating face, then lower the main bearing cap casting into position over the crankshaft (see illustrations). At the same time, feed the oil pump chain through the aperture. 8 Insert the main bearing bolts dry, then tighten them evenly to the initial torque wrench setting. Angle-tighten the bolts by a further 45º (see illustration) 9 Refit the bolts securing the main bearing cap casting to the block, and tighten them to the specified torque.
2C•12 K1G engine
14.3b . . . and withdraw camshaft 14.4a Compress valve spring and remove split collets . . .
14.4b . . . the retainer . . .
18.3 Oiling main bearing shells
14.4c . . . the spring . . . 14.4d . . . the spring seat . . . 14.4e . . . and the valve
Pistons and liners
10 Support the cylinder block on its flywheel end. 11 Check that the lower big-end bearing shells are fitted to the big-end caps and the upper shells to the connecting rods.
12 Oil the liner bores and piston rings. 13 Position the piston ring end gaps at 120º
from each other, so that none is in line with another. 14 Fit a piston ring compressor to each piston in turn and push the pistons in their respective liners using a hammer handle (see illustrations). Make sure that the arrows on the piston crowns face the front (timing belt
end) of the liners. 15 Fit the bottom O-rings to the liners, taking care not to twist them. 16 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely, then position Nos 1 and 4 crankpins at bottom dead centre (BDC). Oil the crankpins. 17 Insert No 1 liner/piston into the block and guide the connecting rod big-end onto the crankpin. Refit the big-end bearing cap and tighten the nuts evenly to the specified torque
(see illustration). 18 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely
while holding the liner in position with a clamp. Temporarily refit the crankshaft sprocket bolt to turn the crankshaft.
19 Repeat the procedure to fit the remaining pistons and liners.
Oil pump
20 Support the block upside-down on the bench. 21 Check that the oil pump location pin is fitted to the main bearing casting, then refit the oil pump, tilting it to engage the drive sprocket with the chain. Insert and tighten the bolts.
Sump
22 Apply jointing compound to the mating faces of the sump and main bearing casting. Refit the sump, insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
Crankshaft rear oil seal
23 Dip the new crankshaft rear oil seal in clean engine oil and locate it over the rear of the crankshaft (see illustration). 24 Citroën dealers use a special tool (0132U) to fit the seal but it can be fitted by using the flywheel. Temporarily locate the flywheel on the crankshaft using four bolts, then tighten the bolts evenly until the flywheel contacts the rear flange. Remove the flywheel and use a metal tube or block of wood to drive the oil seal fully into position.
K1G engine 2C•13
2C
18.14b Using a hammer handle to push a piston into its liner
18.17 Tightening a big-end bearing cap nut
18.8 Angle-tightening main bearing cap bolts
18.14a Fitting a piston ring compressor
18.23 Crankshaft rear oil seal located over rear of crankshaft
18.7a Apply jointing compound to crankcase mating face . . . 18.7b . . . then lower main bearing cap casting into position
Flywheel
25 Apply locking fluid to the threads of the flywheel bolts. Locate the flywheel on the crankshaft dowel then insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque while holding the flywheel stationary with a
wide-bladed screwdriver inserted between the starter ring gear teeth (see illustration).
Crankshaft front oil seal
26 Support the engine upright. 27 Dip the crankshaft front oil seal in clean
engine oil, locate it over the front of the
crankshaft and drive it in flush with the front of the block using a metal tube or socket (see illustration). There is no seating, so take care not to drive it in too far. 28 Fit the oil seal flange, followed by the hub/sprocket. Insert the sprocket bolt and spacer, and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the flywheel stationary (see illustration).
Coolant pump housing
29 Refit the coolant pump housing, together with a new O-ring, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Clutch friction disc and pressure plate
30 Locate the clutch friction disc and pressure plate on the flywheel with the dowels engaged. Insert the bolts finger-tight. 31 Centralise the friction disc using a universal tool, or by making a wooden adapter to the dimensions shown (see illustrations). 32 Tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly to the specified torque (see illustration).
Cylinder head
33 Clean the cylinder head and block joint faces thoroughly. Also clean the cylinder head bolt holes.
2C•14 K1G engine
18.25 Applying locking fluid to a flywheel bolt
18.27 Crankshaft front oil seal located over front of crankshaft
18.28 Tightening crankshaft sprocket bolt
18.31a Clutch centralising tool dimensions
Dimensions in mm
18.31b Centralising clutch friction disc using a universal tool 18.32 Tightening a clutch pressure plate bolt
34 Locate the new cylinder head gasket on
the block dowels, with the manufacturer’s name uppermost. 35 Align the TDC holes in the flywheel and block rear flange, then insert a twist drill or long bolt. 36 Align the small hole in the camshaft sprocket with the hole in the cylinder head, then insert a twist drill or bolt. 37 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that it engages the two dowels.
38 Refit the rocker arm assembly. 39 Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads
and heads with molybdenum disulphide grease. Insert them and tighten to the initial torque using the sequence shown (see
illustration 7.40). 40 Using the same sequence, angle-tighten
the bolts through the specified angle.
Timing belt and covers
41 Refit the timing belt tensioner roller, turn it clockwise and tighten the nut. 42 Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket then, keeping it taut, feed it onto the camshaft sprocket, around the tensioner pulley, and onto the coolant pump sprocket. 43 Loosen the nut and turn the tensioner roller anti-clockwise by hand. Tighten the nut. 44 Citroën dealers use the special tool shown (see illustration 6.12) to tension the timing belt. A similar tool may be fabricated using an 8.0 cm long arm and a 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) weight. The torque applied to the roller will approximate 12 kgf cm (10.5 lbf in). Pre-tension the timing belt with the tool and tighten the nut, then remove the timing pins and rotate the crankshaft through two complete turns. Loosen the nut and allow the roller to re-position itself. Tighten the nut. 45 If the special tool is not available, an approximate setting may be achieved by turning the roller hub anti-clockwise, until it is just possible to turn the timing belt through 90º by finger and thumb midway between the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. The square in the roller hub should then be directly below the adjustment nut, and the deflection of the belt in the midway position should be approximately 6.0 mm. If using this method, the tension should be re-checked by a Citroën dealer at the earliest opportunity. 46 Refit the lower, intermediate and upper timing covers, then tighten the bolts.
Remaining components
47 Adjust the valve clearances. 48 Refit the baffle plate with its edges
pointing downwards, followed by the two spacers. 49 Fit the rubber gasket to the rocker cover, locate the cover in position and tighten the nuts. 50 Apply a little sealant to the end of the engine oil dipstick holder and insert it in the main bearing cap casting. Insert and tighten the mounting bolt.
51 Insert and tighten the oil pressure switch. 52 Smear a little oil on the sealing ring and
tighten the oil filter into position by hand only. 53 Refit the timing plate and tighten the bolts. 54 Refit the TDC sensor and tighten the bolt. Fix the lead in the plastic clip on the timing plate. Note that the main body of the TDC sensor should be 1.0 mm from the flywheel. 55 Apply jointing compound to the distributor mounting flange, then refit it to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts. 56 Apply jointing compound to the thermostat housing, then refit it to the cylinder head and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
57 Refit the thermostat. 58 Refit the distributor. 59 Refit the exhaust manifold together with
new gaskets. Refit the nuts and washers and tighten securely. 60 Refit the exhaust manifold hot air shroud and tighten the bolts.
61 Locate the coil and bracket over the distributor and tighten the bolts. 62 Position the pulley on the front of the crankshaft. Insert and tighten the bolts. 63 Refit the alternator and insert the pivot and adjustment bolts. Slip the drivebelt onto the pulleys and tighten the tension bolt until the deflection of the belt midway between the pulleys is approximately 6.0 mm under firm thumb pressure. Tighten the pivot and adjustment bolts. 64 Refit the fuel pump with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. 65 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the inlet manifold and cylinder head and apply jointing compound. 66 Refit the inlet manifold complete with carburettor and tighten the nuts. 67 Reconnect the hose between the fuel pump and carburettor and tighten the clips. 68 Reconnect the vacuum hose between the distributor and carburettor.
69 Refit and tighten the spark plugs. 70 Refit the HT leads and distributor cap.
19 Engine - reconnection to
transmission
4
Refer to Section 18 in Part A of this Chapter.
20 Engine - initial start-up after
overhaul
3
1 Refer to Section 19 in Part A of this Chapter. 2 Note that the cylinder head bolts of this engine do not require re-tightening and the timing belt does not require re-tensioning. 3 If new bearings and/or pistons have been fitted, treat the engine as new, and run it in at reduced speeds. Also change the engine oil at 1000 miles (1500 km).
K1G engine 2C•15
2C
2D
Chapter 2 Part D:
D6C engine
Specifications are as for the type 159 engine (see Chapter 2B) except for the following:
General
Model application:
BX 19 GTi 16 valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6C (XU9J4)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4:1
Maximum power DIN (BHP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 at 6500 rpm
Maximum torque DIN (lbf ft) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 at 5000 rpm
Valves
Head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.7 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.7 mm
Cam followers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic (valve clearance adjustment not required)
Valve timing
Valve lift 9.2 mm
Inlet opens* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 35’ BTDC
Inlet closes* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º 50’ ABDC
Exhaust opens* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47º 0’ BBDC
Exhaust closes* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 30’ ATDC
*With valve clearance of 1.0 mm
Crankshaft
Endfloat thrustwasher thicknesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.33 to 2.53 mm (in increments of 0.05 mm)
Crank journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59.7 to 60.0 mm
Crankpin diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.7 to 50.0 mm
Lubrication system
Oil pressure:
At 850 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar
At 3000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.8 bar
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104
Oil capacity (with filter change) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3 litres (9.3 pints)
Dipstick minimum to maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres (2.6 pints)
Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder liners - checking protrusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine - complete dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine - complete reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine dismantling - ancillary items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine - preparation for reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Engine - reconnection to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Engine - separation from transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine/transmission - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Engine/transmission - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Oil filter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Timing belt - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2D•1
Specifications
Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
5
4
3
2
1
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Camshaft bearing cap Allen screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Centre main bearing cap side bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Sump pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Big-end bearing cap nuts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 2: slacken, then tighten to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Stage 3: then immediately . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten a further 70º
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Clutch cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Crankshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 82
Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Timing belt tensioner locking screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Engine mounting bracket at timing cover end:
Larger bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 53
Smaller bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Crankshaft damper bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Camshaft rear pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Inlet manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 43
Stage 2: slacken, and then tighten each bolt in turn to . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Stage 3: then immediately . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten a further 300º
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The D6C engine is fitted to all BX 19 GTi 16 valve models and is a development of the D6A engine, which itself is based upon the 159A engine dealt with in Chapter 2B.
Introduced in July 1987, the essential difference is the 16 valve double overhead camshaft cylinder head, the camshafts being driven by a toothed belt tensioned by two idler rollers.
The need for valve clearance adjustment is eliminated by the incorporation of Hydraulic tappets (cam followers).
The pistons have been re-designed, with valve head recesses machined in the piston crown and the gudgeon pins are now of the “floating” type, secured by circlips in the piston. The undersides of the pistons are cooled by oil jets located in lubrication pipes within the crankcase.
The crankshaft has lighter balancing counterweights with a damper fitted to the sprocket end.
Pressurised oil is supplied by an oil pump located within the sump pan, the pump being driven by chain from the crankshaft.
Due to an oil cooler being fitted, oil capacity has increased. The oil filter is of disposable screw-on canister type, mounted on the oil cooler housing. The oil filler pipe is an independent assembly, remote from the engine, in order to provide a reasonable position for pouring oil into the steeply-canted engine.
Precautions
Because of the unusual layout of the engine and transmission systems, extra care and attention are necessary during maintenance and overhaul procedures which, in many instances, differ from more conventional systems.
Read through the various Sections concerned before tackling any job, and analyse the instructions, so that any snags or possible difficulties can be noted in advance. Because the sub-assembly castings are made from aluminium alloy it is of utmost importance that, where specified, all fastenings are tightened to the correct torque and, in some instances, in the correct sequence.
2 Oil filter - removal and refitting
2
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 9.
3 Major operations possible
with engine in vehicle
The following items can be removed and refitted with the engine in the vehicle:
a) Timing belt and camshafts. b) Cylinder head. c) Sump pan d) Oil pump. e) Engine mountings.
4 Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed for the
following operation:
a) Removal of the crankshaft and main
bearings
5 Timing belt - removal and
refitting
3
Note: If there is the slightest doubt about the condition of the timing belt then it must be renewed. Note: The following operation was carried out with the engine in the vehicle. Note: Accurate adjustment of the timing belt entails the use of Citroën special tools. An approximate setting can be achieved using the method described in this Section but is essential that the tension is checked by a dealer on completion.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Remove the front right-hand roadwheel,
then unclip and remove the wheel arch blanking panel to provide access to the timing cover, the crankshaft sprocket and damper
(see illustration). 3 Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and
the belt adjuster link, then remove the alternator drivebelt.
2D•2 D6C engine
4 Pull out the keyhole slot-type spring clips from the front face of the timing belt cover
(see illustration). 5 Extract the screws and remove the timing
belt cover. 6 Using the centre bolt in the crankshaft damper, turn the crankshaft until the slot in the crankshaft sprocket is aligned with the one on the oil pump cover, and the pin holes in the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the holes in the cylinder head. 7 Unscrew the bolts and take off the damper from the front end of the crankshaft.
8 Remove the timing belt lower cover. 9 Using an Allen key, release the belt
tensioner locking screws. 10 Remove the timing belt.
Refitting
Caution: Take care not to kink or contaminate the timing belt with oil
11 Setting tools will be required when fitting the new belt. In the absence of Citroën special tools (01 53M and 01 53G), make up two stepped pins as shown (see illustration). Obtain a short length of rod which will be a snug fit in the cut-outs of the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump cover. 12 Insert the camshaft sprocket stepped pins and the crankshaft rod (see illustrations). 13 Fit the new timing belt in a clockwise direction, following the numerical sequence shown (see illustration). Adjust the tensioning pulleys on both sides to make the belt taut. Check that the longest run of the belt can be twisted through 45º when gripped
between the finger and thumb. Tighten the tensioner screws to the specified torque. Note that in this application, the tensioners serve two purposes, both to tension the belt and to provide fine adjustment of the valve timing. 14 Remove the two stepped pins and the rod. 15 Turn the crankshaft through two complete revolutions. Fit the crankshaft sprocket locking rod. 16 The two stepped pins should now slide smoothly through the holes of the camshaft sprockets into the holes in the cylinder head. Even the slightest misalignment will require re-adjustment of the tensioner pulleys to provide perfect alignment. 17 Remove the pins and rod, and recheck after turning the crankshaft through two more complete revolutions. It is strongly recommended that the belt tension should be
checked by your Citroën dealer using the special tensioner device (Seemtronic 87). 18 Fit the timing belt lower cover, the crankshaft damper and the belt main cover
(see illustrations). 19 Refit and reconnect all the other
components in reverse order of removal, referring to the Specifications for the appropriate torque wrench settings.
6 Cylinder head - removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: The following operation was carried out with the engine in the vehicle.
Removal
1 Drain the engine cooling system and disconnect the battery.
D6C engine 2D•3
2D
5.2 Removing front right-hand wheel arch blanking panel
5.4 Removing a timing belt cover spring clip
5.11 Stepped pin fabrication
a 8.43 mm b 6.38 mm
5.12a Camshaft sprocket locking pins in position
5.12b Crankshaft sprocket locking rod in position
5.13 Fit timing belt in clockwise direction, starting at No 1
5.18a Timing belt lower cover refitted 5.18b Fitting a crankshaft damper bolt
2 Release the screws and remove the cover
plate from the centre of the camshaft cover
(see illustration). 3 Disconnect the spark plug leads from the
spark plugs and disconnect the coolant temperature sender lead. 4 Extract the screws and remove the distributor cap, complete with leads.
5 Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail. 6 Disconnect the fuel injector wiring plugs
and then unbolt the fuel rail and remove complete with injectors. 7 Disconnect the coolant hoses from their cylinder head connections. 8 Extract the screws and take off the camshaft cover and the timing belt cover (see
illustrations). 9 Using the centre bolt in the crankshaft
damper, turn the crankshaft until the slot in the crankshaft is aligned with the one on the oil pump cover and the pin holes in the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the holes in the cylinder head. Use two stepped pins to lock the sprockets in this position as shown in
illustration 5.12a. 10 Release the tension of the timing belt by
slackening the Allen screws in the two tensioner rollers. Mark the direction of rotation on the belt then slip the belt from the camshaft sprockets. 11 Pull the lubrication pipes from the camshaft bearing caps. The camshafts can be removed independently of the cylinder head if required, or the complete cylinder head can be removed and then dismantled. 12 Assuming that the cylinder head is to be
removed complete, release and remove the high pressure pump drivebelt from the end of the exhaust valve camshaft. 13 Note that the camshaft bearing caps are numbered 1 to 5 from the flywheel end of the engine and are doweled so that they can only be fitted one way. 14 Progressively unscrew the Allen screws in the reverse order to that shown for tightening. Remove the camshaft bearing caps in the following order - No 4 first, then Nos 2, 3, 1 and 5. 15 Lift out the camshafts, labelling them “Exhaust” and “Inlet”. 16 Disconnect the air inlet duct from the air cleaner and the hoses, control cables and leads from the inlet manifold and throttle housing. 17 Unscrew the inlet manifold nuts and lift the manifold from the cylinder head. 18 Unscrew the exhaust manifold nuts and pull it away from the cylinder head. The lower nuts are more accessible from underneath. 19 Using a TX55 Torx bit, unscrew and remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order to that shown for tightening. 20 Remove the cylinder head. If it is stuck, rock it using pieces of wood inserted in the inlet ports. Discard the cylinder head gasket. 21 As soon as the head is removed, fit liner clamps to prevent the liner base seals being disturbed.
Overhaul
22 Remove the hydraulic tappets (cam followers), keeping them in order of installation.
23 Removal of the valves and decarbonising are as described in Section 13 in Part A of this Chapter but the valves must be identified as to original location (see illustrations). 24 When refitting a valve, some difficulty may be experienced in inserting the split collets. Use of a pencil magnet or a dab of thick grease will help. 25 The valve stem oil seals can be removed with a pair of long-nosed pliers. Fit the new ones using a piece of tubing of suitable bore.
Refitting
26 Ensure that all components are clean and new gaskets are to hand. Remember that as refitting proceeds, all nuts and bolts must be tightened to the torque wrench settings given in the Specifications. Remove the liner clamps. 27 Smear the hydraulic tappets (cam followers) with grease, then refit them in their original locations. 28 Place a new cylinder head gasket on the top of the cylinder block (see illustration). 29 Lower the cylinder head onto the positioning dowels. 30 Lightly oil the cylinder head bolts, then insert and tighten them in the order shown to the torque wrench settings given in
Specifications (see illustrations). 31 Locate the camshafts with new oil seals.
Assuming that the crankshaft has not been moved from its position aligned with the oil pump housing, the camshafts should be set with the keyways at the 3 o’clock position. This is so that when the camshaft sprockets are fitted, the pin holes will be in alignment with the corresponding holes in the cylinder head.
2D•4 D6C engine
6.2 Removing camshaft centre cover plate 6.8a Extracting a camshaft cover screw 6.8b Extracting a timing belt cover screw
6.23a View of combustion chamber showing inlet valves (1) and exhaust valves (2)
6.23b Valve components 6.28 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket
32 Fit the camshaft bearing caps and tighten
the bolts to the specified torque in the sequence shown (see illustrations).
33 Fit the camshaft lubrication pipes (see illustration). 34 Fit the timing belt rear cover and the
camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the alignment is correct by using the stepped pins
described earlier. Use an open-ended spanner on the flats of the camshaft to hold it whilst tightening the sprocket bolt to the specified torque (see illustrations).
35 Refit the timing belt. 36 Fit the timing belt cover. Check that the spark plug hole oil seals are in position (see illustration) and then fit the cam cover.
37 Fit the distributor cap and connect the
spark plug leads. 38 Using new gaskets, reconnect the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head
(see illustrations). 39 Reconnect and tension the drivebelts,
then connect the air cleaner inlet.
D6C engine 2D•5
2D
6.33 Camshaft lubrication pipe - note seal on spigot
6.34a Timing belt rear cover correctly refitted
6.34b Fitting a camshaft sprocket bolt
6.30a Angle-tightening a cylinder head bolt 6.30b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
6.32a Fitting a camshaft bearing cap 6.32b Camshaft bearing cap bolt tightening sequence
40 Reconnect the electrical leads to the
cylinder head switches and then reconnect the coolant hoses and control cables. 41 Reconnect the fuel hoses, fuel rail and injectors (see illustration).
42 Reconnect the battery. 43 Refill the cooling system.
7 Engine/transmission -
removal
4
1 This operation is essentially as described in Part B of this Chapter. The connections for the Motronic engine management system must be taken into account and any references to a carburettor ignored. 2 The pressure regulator for the hydraulic system (located on the forward-facing side of the crankcase) must be withdrawn and tied aside. 3 The hydraulic pump (driven by the exhaust camshaft pulley) must be removed from its drivebelt and mounting and tied to one side
(see illustrations).
8 Engine dismantling - general
information
Refer to Section 8 in Part A of this Chapter.
9 Engine dismantling - ancillary
items
The extent of engine ancillary items to be removed is dependent on the extent to which the engine is to be dismantled and repaired. Refer to Section 9 in Part A of this Chapter and remove those items listed which are applicable, ignoring references to the coolant pump and, if the cylinder head is to be removed, the exhaust manifold. These two items are best removed later during the engine dismantling procedures.
Note that the clutch unit is removed after the engine and gearbox are separated.
10 Engine - separation from
transmission
4
Refer to Section 12 in Part B of this Chapter.
11 Engine - complete dismantling
4
Note: As dismantling of the engine requires the timing belt to be removed, it is advisable to read the procedure for timing belt removal and refitting before starting work.
1 Support the engine on a clean bench or strong table. 2 Clean away all external dirt using water-soluble solvent or paraffin and a stiff brush. 3 Unbolt the ignition coil from the inlet manifold.
4 Withdraw the engine oil dipstick. 5 Remove the oil filler pipe assembly. 6 Unplug the fuel injectors, release the fuel
rail (two screws) and withdraw the rail/injector assembly. 7 Remove the cover plate from the centre of the cam cover then remove the cam cover itself. Disconnect and withdraw the spark plug HT leads.
8 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 9 Disconnect the hoses and remove the
coolant distribution pipe.
2D•6 D6C engine
6.36 Spark plug hole oil seal 6.38a Exhaust manifold gasket correctly located
6.38b Exhaust manifold fitted
6.38c Inlet manifold fitted 6.41 Fitting fuel rail and injectors
7.3b Hydraulic pump (arrowed)7.3a Hydraulic pump drive pulley
(arrowed)
10 Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with throttle housing. Discard the gasket. 11 Unbolt and remove the thermostat housing. 12 Unbolt the exhaust manifold and discard its gasket. 13 Unbolt and remove the coolant multi-union from the exhaust side of the crankcase. 14 Unbolt and remove the mounting bracket from the front of the cylinder block.
15 Remove the distributor and drive flange. 16 Remove the pulley and plastic guard from
the rear end of the exhaust camshaft. The camshaft may be held against rotation using the spanner flats on the camshaft. 17 Unscrew and remove the oil pressure, temperature and level switches.
18 Remove the oil filter. 19 If necessary, remove the oil cooler by
disconnecting the hoses and then unscrewing the large fixing nut. 20 Extract the Allen screws, slide the timing belt cover upwards and remove it.
21 Remove the timing belt. 22 Hold the flats on the camshafts with an
open-ended spanner, unscrew the bolts which secure the camshaft sprockets, then remove the sprockets. 23 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sprocket. Take out the Woodruff key (see
illustrations). 24 Remove the timing belt guide plate from
the crankshaft.
25 Remove the timing belt upper cover backplate.
26 Remove the coolant pump. 27 Pull off the camshaft lubrication pipes. 28 Remove the cylinder head. 29 Unbolt and remove the clutch assembly. 30 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. 31 Remove the sump pan securing bolts and
remove the sump pan. 32 Extract the Allen screws and remove the sump spacer plate (see illustrations). 33 Extract the bolts and remove the front oil seal carrier plate. 34 Extract the bolts and withdraw the oil pump, at the same time sliding the drivechain and sprocket off the crankshaft. Note the adjustment shim used to tension the drivechain during production (see illustrations). 35 Mark the adjacent surfaces of the connecting rods and their caps by
centre-punching 1 to 4 from the flywheel end on the inlet manifold side. 36 Unbolt the big-end cap nuts and remove the caps, keeping the shell bearings with their respective rods or caps if they are to be used again. 37 Mark the upper rims of the cylinder liners 1 to 4 from the flywheel end, using paint marks as shown (see illustration). Make the marks on the inlet side if the original liners are to be used again. 38 Discard the liner base seals after the piston, connecting rod and liner assemblies have been withdrawn. 39 If the piston rings are to be removed, push the piston and connecting rod out of the liner and insert three old feeler blades at equidistant points behind the top ring. Remove the ring off the top of the piston using a twisting motion.
D6C engine 2D•7
2D
11.23a Removing crankshaft sprocket bolt and spacer
11.23b Removing crankshaft sprocket 11.32a Extract Allen screws (arrowed) . . .
11.34b Removing oil pump with drivechain and sprocket
11.34c Removing oil pump drivechain tension adjustment shim
11.37 Method of marking cylinder liner numbering from flywheel end
11.32b . . . and remove sump spacer plate 11.34a Oil pump in position
40 Extract the circlips and push the gudgeon
pin out of the piston and connecting rod. If the pin is tight, immerse the piston in very hot water. 41 Note the marking of the main bearing caps - N at the flywheel end and then 2, 3, 4 and 5, read from the flywheel end. 42 Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts or the nuts on the centre cap. The centre cap is also secured by bolts entered from each side of the crankcase. 43 Remove the main bearing caps, keeping the bearing shells with their respective caps if the shells are to be used again. 44 Semi-circular thrustwashers are located at No 2 main bearing cap. 45 Lift out the crankshaft. Retrieve the thrustwashers from their crankcase seats at No 2 main bearing.
46 If necessary, remove the lubrication pipes.
12 Engine - examination and
renovation
4
General information
1 Refer to Section 12 in Part A of this Chapter.
Component examination and renovation
2 Refer to Section 12 in Part A of this Chapter, ignoring references to rocker gear and timing chain.
3 The rubber toothed timing belt and the oil pump drive chain should be renewed at the time of major overhaul. 4 The hydraulic tappets (cam followers) cannot be dismantled. Noisy operation will indicate the need for renewal (see illustration).
13 Engine reassembly - general
information
Refer to Section 14 in Part A of this Chapter.
14 Engine - preparation for
reassembly
3
Refer to Section 15 in Part A of this Chapter.
15 Cylinder liners - checking
protrusion
3
Refer to Section 16 in Part A of this Chapter.
16 Engine - complete reassembly
4
Note: Maintain conditions of absolute cleanliness when reassembling the engine
Crankshaft
1 With the crankcase clean and oil galleries probed clean, commence reassembly by fitting the lubrication pipes. Note that the pipes are offset towards the crankcase webs
(see illustration). 2 Wipe out the main bearing shell seats in the crankcase and fit the grooved shells (see illustration). 3 Using thick grease, place the thrustwashers
(oil grooves visible) on each side of No 2 web
(see illustration). 4 Lubricate the shells with clean engine oil
and lower the crankshaft into the crankcase
(see illustration). 5 Fit the plain shells in the main bearing caps
and fit the caps in numbered sequence, making sure that the thrustwashers are located in No 2 cap (see illustrations).
2D•8 D6C engine
16.1 Fitting a crankcase lubrication pipe
12.4 Removing a hydraulic tappet
16.2 Fitting a grooved bearing shell to the crankcase
16.3 Fitting a crankshaft thrustwasher
16.4 Lowering crankshaft into crankcase 16.5a Main bearing cap with plain shell fitted
16.5b Fitting a main bearing cap
6 Fit the crankshaft rear oil seal before
tightening down the main bearing cap at the flywheel end. Make sure that the new cap side sealing strips are correctly located (see
illustration). 7 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts and
nuts to the specified torque. Using a dial gauge or feeler blades, check the crankshaft endfloat as described in Part A of this Chapter. If necessary, change the thrustwashers to bring the endfloat within tolerance. 8 Fit and tighten the centre main bearing cap side bolts to the specified torque (see illustration).
Pistons and liners
9 Assemble the pistons to the connecting rods. The gudgeon pin should be a sliding fit in the piston and connecting rod small end. If necessary, immerse the piston in hot water to ease gudgeon pin installation. The gudgeon pin is retained by circlips which have the gaps facing the rings when fitted. Make sure that the piston-to-rod alignment is correct, as shown (see illustrations).
10 Fit the piston rings as shown (see illustration) and space the ring gaps at 120º
either side of the scraper (bottom) ring gap.
11 Using a piston ring compressor and plenty of clean engine oil, slide the piston assemblies into their liners. 12 Fit a new O-ring seal to the base of each cylinder liner and install each piston/ connecting rod/liner assembly into the block. If old assemblies are being fitted, ensure that they are located in their original positions. Check that the pistons are correctly aligned with the arrow on the piston crown towards the timing belt. Fit cylinder liner retaining clamps (see illustrations). 13 Push the pistons down their bores and connect the connecting rod big-end (complete
with shell bearing) to the crankshaft. 14 Fit the big-end caps (complete with shell bearings) to their respective connecting rods. 15 Screw on the nuts and tighten to the specified torque. The crankshaft may have to be turned to facilitate fitting the bearing caps and to tighten the nuts (see illustration).
D6C engine 2D•9
2D
16.6 Flywheel end main bearing cap showing side sealing strip
16.8 Centre main bearing cap side bolt 16.9a Piston-to-connecting rod alignment
a Bearing shell notch
16.9b Inserting a gudgeon pin circlip
16.10 Piston ring fitting
1 Oil control ring (scraper) 2 Second compression ring 3 Top compression ring
16.12a Fitting a piston/connecting rod/liner assembly 16.12b Typical cylinder liner clamps fitted
Oil pump
16 Before refitting the oil pump, fit a new oil seal. A new pump must be primed with clean engine oil. 17 Use a new pump gasket and note that bolt “5” (see illustration) centralises the pump and should be fitted first.
Sump pan
18 Use silicone-type instant gasket (applied to clean surfaces) to seal the sump spacer plate to the crankcase (see illustration).
19 With the mating surfaces clean and using a new gasket, refit the sump pan, ensuring that the gasket does not move (see illustration). Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench settings.
Flywheel and clutch
20 Bolt the flywheel to the end of the crankshaft (the flywheel has a positioning dowel). Apply thread-locking fluid to the cleaned bolt threads and tighten to the specified torque (see illustration). 21 Fit the clutch driven plate with the longer
projecting hub facing the clutch cover (see illustration). Remember to align the driven plate.
Cylinder head and camshafts
22 Fit the cylinder head and camshafts as described earlier in Section 6. 23 Fit the camshaft lubrication pipes.
Coolant pump
24 Fit the coolant pump as described in Chapter 3.
Timing belt and sprockets
25 Fit the timing belt upper cover backplate. 26 Fit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft,
then push on the timing belt guide and the sprocket. Apply thread-locking fluid to the bolt threads, then fit the bolt and spacer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque. 27 Fit the two camshaft sprockets, tightening the securing bolts to the specified torque. 28 Fit and tension the timing belt as described in Section 5.
Remaining components
29 Fit the timing belt lower cover, then bolt on the crankshaft damper, tightening the bolts to the specified torque.
2D•10 D6C engine
16.20 Tightening a flywheel bolt 16.21 Fitting clutch components 16.32 Fitting oil cooler retaining tube and nut
16.18 Applying instant gasket to sump spacer plate
16.19 Refitting sump pan and gasket
16.15 Angle-tightening a big-end cap nut 16.17 Fitting the oil pump
2 Pump body 3 Chain and sprocket
4 L-shaped shim 5 Centralising bolt
30 Locate the spark plug hole seals and fit the camshaft cover, tightening the bolts to the specified torque.
31 Fit the main timing belt cover. 32 Fit the oil cooler using a new gasket, then tighten the fixing nut (see illustration). 33 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
rubber seal of a new oil filter, then screw it on, using hand pressure only. 34 Screw the oil temperature switch into the sump pan (see illustration). 35 Screw the oil pressure switch into the crankcase. Refit the oil level sensor (see
illustrations). 36 Fit the plastic guard and the pulley to the rear end of the exhaust camshaft (see illustration). 37 Fit the distributor components to the end
of the inlet camshaft. 38 Bolt the engine mounting bracket to the front of the cylinder block. 39 Bolt the coolant multi-hose union to the exhaust side of the crankcase (see
illustration).
40 Fit the exhaust manifold with new
gaskets.
41 Bolt on the thermostat housing. 42 Bolt on the inlet manifold using new
gaskets. Note the support strut at the front of the manifold. 43 Connect and secure the coolant distribution pipe (see illustration).
44 Fit the fuel rail and injectors.
45 Fit the oil filler pipe assembly. 46 Insert the oil dipstick. 47 Bolt the ignition coil to its bracket. 48 Screw in the spark plugs using a suitable
plug spanner. 49 Connect and route the HT leads and then fit the cover plate to the centre of the cam cover. Do not overtighten the two fixing screws.
D6C engine 2D•11
2D
16.36 Camshaft plastic guard and pulley correctly refitted
16.35b Refitting oil level sensor
16.34 Oil temperature switch in sump pan 16.35a Refitting oil pressure switch
16.39 Coolant multi-hose union correctly refitted 16.43 Coolant distribution pipe (arrowed)
17 Engine - reconnection to
transmission
4
Refer to Section 20 in Part B of this Chapter.
18 Engine/transmission -
refitting
4
This operation is essentially as described in Part B of this Chapter with the addition of the following, mentioned in Section 7 of this Chapter:
a) Connections for the Motronic engine
management system b) References to carburettor (to be ignored) c) Pressure regulator for the hydraulic
system d) Hydraulic pump connections
19 Engine - initial start-up after
overhaul
3
1 Ensure that the battery is fully charged. 2 Ensure that lubricants, coolant and fuel are
replenished. 3 Top-up the hydraulic system and prime the high pressure (HP) pump. 4 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast tickover only and bring it up to the normal working temperature. 5 With the engine running, repressurise the hydraulic system. 6 As the engine warms up, there will be odd smells and some smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. Look for oil and coolant leaks, which will be obvious if serious. 7 Check the exhaust pipe and manifold connections, as these do not always find their
exact gas-tight position until warmth and vibration have acted on them. It is almost certain that they will need tightening further. This should be done with the engine stopped. 8 Check all fuel system connections for any sign of leakage. 9 Road test the car to check that the ignition timing is correct and that the engine is giving the necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine. If new bearings and/or pistons have been fitted, the engine should be treated as new and run-in at a reduced speed. 10 If many of the engine internal components have been renewed, then change the engine oil at 1000 miles (1600 km).
2D•12 D6C engine
3
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
For engine to model applications refer to Chapter 2
System
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, front mounted radiator (with integral header tank), coolant
pump and thermostat. Electric cooling fan
Capacity (including heater):
150 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 litres (11.4 Imp pints)
171 and 159 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 to 7.0 litres (11.4 to 12.3 Imp pints)
K1G engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 litres (11.4 Imp pints)
D6A, D6C and D6D engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litres (12.5 Imp pints)
Thermostat
Travel (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 mm
Opening temperature:
150 and 171 engines:
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82ºC (180ºF)
Fully open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93ºC (200ºF)
159 engine:
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79ºC (174ºF)
Fully open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82ºC (180º F)
K1G engine:
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC (190ºF)
Fully open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102ºC (216º F)
D6A, D6C and D6D engines:
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79ºC (174ºF)
Fully open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82ºC (180º F)
Cooling fan
Cut-in temperature:
150 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91º to 96ºC (196º to 205ºF)
171 engine:
1st speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84º to 90ºC (183º to 194ºF)
2nd speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90º to 96ºC (194º to 205ºF)
159 engine:
1st speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86º to 90ºC (186º to 194ºF)
2nd speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90º to 94ºC (194º to 201°F)
K1G engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90ºC (194ºF)
D6A, D6C and D6D engines:
1st speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86º to 90ºC (186º to 194ºF)
2nd speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90º to 94ºC (194º to 201°F)
Air conditioning system - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Coolant low level warning switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 6
Coolant pump (BX and BX 14) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Coolant pump (BX 16 and BX 19) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
Coolant temperature switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cooling fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Cooling fan thermal switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Heater control panel (later models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 15
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Heater unit (air conditioned models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 12
Heater unit (non air conditioned models) - removal and refitting . . . 11
Radiator - removal, inspection, cleaning and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
3•1
Specifications
Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
5
4
3
2
1
Coolant temperature switch
Operational temperatures:
150 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110º to 113ºC (230º to 235ºF)
159 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105º to 112ºC (221º to 233ºF)
171 engine:
Yellow connection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110º to 114ºC (230º to 237ºF)
Blue connection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103º to 107ºC (217º to 224ºF)
K1G engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110ºC (230ºF)
D6A, D6C and D6D engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 to 112ºC (221 to 233ºF)
Radiator
Cap pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 bar
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
150 engine
Coolant pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 14
Coolant temperature switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Thermostat housing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
171 and 159 engines
Coolant pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Coolant temperature switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 14
Coolant housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12
Coolant housing plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Thermostat housing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
K1G engine
Coolant pump upper stud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12
Coolant pump lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Housing inlet elbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Housing to block:
8 mm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 22
10 mm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 37
1 General information and
precautions
General information
Cooling system
The cooling system is of the pump-assisted
thermal syphon type and is pressurised by means of a pressure valve filler cap. The main components of the system are the radiator, the coolant pump, the thermostat, the cooling fan, the heater and the connecting hoses.
Cold coolant from the bottom of the radiator
is pumped into the passages of the cylinder block and head. Heat from the combustion chambers and moving parts of the engine is absorbed by the coolant which is then directed to the upper section of the radiator. The passage of air through the radiator cools the coolant as it passes down through the matrix and the cycle is then repeated.
To accelerate the warming-up process when
starting the engine, and thereafter to maintain the correct operating temperature, a thermostat is fitted in the coolant outlet from the engine to the radiator top hose. When the coolant is cold, the thermostat is closed and circulation is limited to the engine coolant passages by means of a bypass route. As coolant temperature rises, the thermostat opens to allow coolant to flow through the radiator.
The system is pressurised to raise the boiling point of the coolant. This allows the engine to achieve its most efficient operating temperature as well as reducing the amount of coolant needed.
Hot coolant is tapped from the system to supply the vehicle heater matrix and also to supply heat to the carburettor and inlet manifold to improve fuel vaporisation.
The cooling fan is driven by an electric motor and this only cuts in above a certain temperature when activated by a coolant temperature sensor switch.
On BX and BX 14 models equipped with the 150 engine, the coolant pump is driven in tandem with the alternator by a drivebelt driven from the crankshaft pulley.
On BX 14 models equipped with the K1G engine, the coolant pump is located at the timing case end of the cylinder block and is driven by the timing belt.
On BX 16 and BX 19 models, the coolant pump is located in the front of the cylinder block at the timing case end and is driven by the timing belt.
On BX 16 and BX 19 models manufactured after July 1985, the cooling system circuit is modified, the main differences being a revised carburettor heating circuit and coolant inlet casing. The opening temperatures for the thermostat, and the temperature switch operating temperatures, are also revised.
Heating and ventilation system
The heater is located centrally under the facia and supplies warm air for interior heating or windscreen demisting. Hot coolant is piped from the engine through a heater matrix and back to the engine when a manually operated valve is opened.
Fresh air inlets are located at the ends of the facia and any stale air from the car interior is exhausted through slots in the tailgate closure recess.
Air conditioning system
Air conditioning is available as an optional extra on some models. To allow for fitting of the system, the engine crankcase is modified to suit and the Weber carburettor fitted with a butterfly opener controlled by an “Elbi” electrovalve which is located underneath the battery tray. A battery of increased capacity is also fitted. The heater system continues to work on the normal principle in conjunction with the cooling system and incorporates its own booster motor.
Precautions
Cooling system maintenance
Do not remove the expansion tank filler cap or disturb any part of the cooling system whilst it is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the filler cap must be removed before the system is cool, then the pressure in
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
the system must first be released. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the cap until a hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing has stopped, then system pressure is released. Slowly unscrew the cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times keep well away from the filler opening.
If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine is not running. Be careful to keep hands, hair and loose clothing well clear of the fan when working in the engine compartment.
Antifreeze mixture
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out of reach of children and pets. Never leave antifreeze lying around, it is fatal if ingested.
Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them with a dilute solution of boric acid and seek medical advice immediately.
In view of the above points, and of the need for specialised equipment for evacuating and recharging the system, any work which requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line must be left to a specialist.
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed to temperatures above 230°F (110°C) - eg. during welding or paint drying operations. Do not operate the air conditioning system if it is known to be short of refrigerant, or further damage may result.
2 Cooling system - draining,
flushing and filling
2
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 32.
3 Radiator - removal,
inspection, cleaning and refitting
3
Warning: Never work on the cooling system when it is hot. Take care to avoid any possibility of scalding
Removal
1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Unclip and disconnect the top hose and the
smaller expansion return hose from the radiator. 3 Disconnect the wiring connections from the radiator temperature sensor unit (see illustration) and, where applicable, the coolant level indicator unit 4 Pivot the bonnet stay out of the way, then unscrew and remove the five radiator front crosspanel securing bolts. Remove the crosspanel (see illustration). Note that on GTi models, the crosspanel has the fuel system air inlet duct attached. The inlet duct hose will need to be detached from the panel and moved out of the way (see illustration). 5 Carefully lift the radiator out of the engine compartment (see illustration).
Inspection
6 Extensive damage should be repaired by a specialist or the unit exchanged for a new or reconditioned radiator. The radiator matrix, header and bottom tanks should be thoroughly examined for signs of damage, deterioration and leakage. Very often, a white
or rusty sediment will have been deposited where a leak has occurred.
Cleaning
7 After inspection, the radiator should be flushed and the matrix and exterior cleaned of dirt and dead flies with a strong jet of water.
Refitting
8 Refitting the radiator is a reversal of the removal procedure, but the following additional points should be noted:
a) Examine and renew any clips, hoses and
rubber mounting washers which have deteriorated
b) Refill the cooling system
4 Cooling fan - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1 Raise and support the bonnet. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Undo the retaining screws and detach the
front grille panel.
4 Undo the fan unit retaining bolt (see illustration) at the top and lift out the fan unit
sufficiently to detach the wiring connector, then fully remove the fan unit.
Refitting
5 Refit in the reverse order of removal and check for correct operation of the fan on completion.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3
3.3 Temperature sensor unit location in radiator
3.4a Undoing radiator retaining bolts
3.4b Air inlet duct attached to crosspanel ­GTi
3.5 Lifting radiator out of vehicle 4.4 Cooling fan retaining bolt
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