Page 1
Vauxhall Cavalier
Service and Repair Manual
Steve Rendle and Finn Deacon
Models covered
Vauxhall Cavalier front-wheel-drive models with four-cylinder petrol engines, including special/limited editions;
Saloon and Hatchback
1398 cc, 1598 cc, 1796 cc & 1998 cc (inc. DOHC)
Does not cover Diesel engine, V6 engine, air conditioning or four-wheel-drive models
1570 - 320 - 6AA10
© Haynes Publishing 1997
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 088 3
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,
Somerset BA22 7JJ
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige
Page 2
LIVING WITH YOUR VAUXHALL CAVALIER
Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier Page 0•4
Safety first! Page 0•5
Roadside Repairs
Introduction Page 0•6
If your car won’t start Page 0•6
Jump starting Page 0•7
Wheel changing Page 0•8
Identifying leaks Page 0•9
Towing Page 0•9
Weekly Checks
Introduction Page 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine oil level Page 0•12
Coolant level Page 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13
Brake fluid level Page 0•13
Power steering fluid level Page 0•14
Electrical system Page 0•14
Battery Page 0•15
Wiper blade Page 0•15
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•16
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0•17
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing
Maintenance schedule Page 1•4
Maintenance procedures Page 1•8
Contents
Page 3
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
SOHC engine procedures Page 2A•1
DOHC engine procedures Page 2B•1
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - fuel injection models Page 4B•1
Fuel/exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions Page 4C•1
Engine electrical systems Page 5•1
Transmission
Clutch Page 6•1
Manual transmission Page 7A•1
Automatic transmission Page 7B•1
Driveshafts Page 8•1
Brakes and Suspension
Braking system Page 9•1
Suspension and steering Page 10•1
Body equipment
Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1
Body electrical systems Page 12•1
Wiring Diagrams Page 12•22
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF•1
Conversion factors Page REF•2
Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3
General repair procedures Page REF•4
Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system Page REF•5
Tools and working facilities Page REF•6
MOT test checks Page REF•8
Fault finding Page REF•12
Glossary of technical terms Page REF•20
Index Page REF•25
Contents
Page 4
0•4
The Cavalier covered by this manual was first introduced to the UK
market in October 1988. Although there is a fundamental similarity to
its predecessor, the later version is much improved in all respects. This
manual covers models with petrol engines and front-wheel-drive, but
other models in the range are fitted with diesel engines, and four -wheel
drive is available on certain models.
Thirteen derivatives of 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre single overhead
camshaft (SOHC) versions and 2.0 litre double overhead camshaft
(DOHC) petrol engines have been fitted.
The latest ‘ECOTEC’ engines (X 16 SZ and X 20 XEV), have been
designed to meet strict EEC exhaust gas limits for 1996.
All the engines are of well-proven design and, provided regular
maintenance is carried out, are unlikely to give trouble.
Saloon and Hatchback body styles are available. In it’s later years
models started from a well-equipped ‘Envoy’ base model up to the
sporty SRi.
Selected models use the floorpan layout of
the four-wheel-drive models, to
accommodate fully independent rear
suspension. Other models in the range have
semi-independent torsion beam rear
suspension.
A five-speed manual transmission is fitted as
standard to all models, and four-speed
automatic transmission is available as an option.
A wide range of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Cavalier
range to suit most tastes, including an
anti-lock braking system.
Safety features such as front and rear, side
impact bars fitted to the inside of doors, were
fitted as standard from 1993. During the same
year , a full-size drivers airbag was intr oduced.
1994 saw the introduction of airbags for front
seat passengers.
For the home mechanic, the Cavalier is a
straightforward vehicle to maintain, and most
of the items requiring frequent attention are
easily accessible.
Your Vauxhall Cavalier Manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It
will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and
give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults
occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the
car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks
are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.
Cavalier SRi 16v
Hatchback
Cavalier 2.0 litre SRi Saloon
Introduction
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
from, the information given.
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations
showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to SykesPickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to
all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this
manual. Certain illustrations are the copyright of Vauxhall Motors Ltd,
and are used with their permission.
Acknowledgements
Page 5
0•5
Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Specia hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0
C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.
Page 6
0•6
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with
common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
manual, and repair information in the main Chapters.
Roadside repairs
If your car won’t start
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn
M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the
selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.
M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals
are clean and tight.
M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.
If your car won’t start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal
M Is there fuel in the tank, or is the gauge faulty?
M Is there moisture on electrical components under the
bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent
aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel
system electrical connectors like those shown in the
photos.
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads. (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
Check that the spark plug HT leads are
securely connected by pushing them
home.
A
The fuel injection system wiring plug
may cause problems if not connected
securely.
B
Check the ECU multi-plug for security
(where fitted), with the ignition switched
off.
C
Check the security and condition of the
battery connections.
D
Check that the ignition coil wiring plug
is secure, and spray with waterdispersant if necessary.
E
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched
off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you
suspect a problem due to damp
Page 7
0•7
Roadside repairs
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
4 Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.
4 Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
4 If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
1
The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2
The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).
3
The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery
Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.
Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery
Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
1
2
3
4
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the
engine.
5
Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.
6
Jump starting
Page 8
0•8
Roadside repairs
Clear the boot area and remove the
carpet.
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.
M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon
as it is safe to do so.
M Park on firm level ground, if possible,
and well out of the way of other traffic.
M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
M If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
M Apply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear.
M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.
M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the foot
of the jack.
Changing the wheel
Preparation
Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.
Finally...
M Refit the wheel trim (if applicable) and put the punctured wheel in the boot
M Remove the wheel chocks.
M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.
M
Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure
gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.
M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.
Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) and
slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.
Raise the jack whilst locating below the
jacking point (ensure that the jack is on
firm ground and located correctly)
Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel
is raised clear of the ground. Remove the
bolts and lift the wheel clear.
For safety, place the spare wheel under
the car near the jacking point.
Remove the tool holder and unscrew the
spare wheel clamp
1
2
3
4
5
6
Position the spare wheel and fit the
bolts. Hand tighten with the wheel brace
and lower the car to the ground. Tighten
the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence.
7
Page 9
0•9
Roadside repairs
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.
Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.
When all else fails, you may find yourself having
to get a tow home – or of course you may be
helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.
M Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
M Note that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.
M The driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
M Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
M On models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
Towing
Page 10
0•10
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;
M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are
particularly common, and a quick check on a
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.
M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly . Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.
M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Underbonnet check points
§
1.6 SV model
A
Engine oil level dipstick
B
Engine oil filler cap
C
Coolant expansion cap
D
Brake fluid reservoir
E
Screen washer fluid reservoir
F
Battery
§
20 SEH model
A
Engine oil level dipstick
B
Engine oil filler cap
C
Coolant expansion cap
D
Brake fluid reservoir
E
Screen washer fluid reservoir
F
Battery
Introduction
Weekly checks
Page 11
0•11
§
C 20 XE model
A
Engine oil level dipstick
B
Engine oil filler cap
C
Coolant expansion cap
D
Brake fluid reservoir
E
Screen washer fluid reservoir
F
Battery
§
X 20 XEV model
A
Engine oil level dipstick
B
Engine oil filler cap
C
Coolant expansion cap
D
Brake fluid reservoir
E
Screen washer fluid reservoir
F
Battery
Weekly checks
Page 12
Coolant level
Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
0•12
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck
until the coolant reaches the “COLD” level
mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
as it will go until it is secure.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.
The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should be
near the “COLD” (or “KALT”) mark.
Note the level on the end of the dipstick,
which should be between the upper
(“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level. A
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the
oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”)
The dipstick is often brightly coloured for
easy identification (see “Underbonnet
check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for
exact location. Withdraw the dipstick
1 2
3
1 2 3
4
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
Car Care
l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.
l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
Weekly checks
Page 13
Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold
weather - which is when you are likely to need
it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will
freeze during cold weather . On no account use
engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
could discolour or damage paintwork.
Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
Safety first
l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
Brake fluid level
0•13
Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the
specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.
When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to
inspect the reservoir. The system should
be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid
(see Chapter 9 for details).
The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are
indicated on the side of the reservoir. The
fluid level must be kept between the marks.
1
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap.
2
3 4
Screen washer fluid level
The windscreen washer fluid reservoir is
located in the rear left-hand corner of the
engine compartment. The washer level can be
seen through the reservoir body. If topping-up
is necessary, open the cap.
When topping-up the reservoir, add a
screenwash additive in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.
1 2
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir will
drop slightly as the brake pads wear
down, but the fluid level must never be
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.
Weekly checks
Page 14
0•14
Before you start:
4 Park the vehicle on level ground.
4 Set the steering wheel pointing straight-
ahead.
4 The engine should be tur ned off.
Safety First:
l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.
If topping up is required, use the
specified type of fluid, and do not overfill
the reservoir. When the level is correct, refit
the cap.
Clean the area around the reservoir cap,
then unscrew the cap and wipe the
dipstick with a clean rag. When the engine is
cold, the fluid should come up to the lower
“ADD” mark; when hot, it should come up to
the “FULL” mark.
The fluid level is checked with a dipstick
attached to the reservoir filler cap. The
reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the
engine compartment (veiwed from the drivers
seat) behind the battery.
1 2 3
For the check to be accurate
the steering must not be
turned once the engine has
been stopped.
Power steering fluid level
Weekly checks
Electrical system
To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.
Fit a new fuse of the same rating,
available from car accessory shops.
It is important that you find the reason that the
fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.
If more than one indicator light or
headlight has failed it is likely that either a
fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the
circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in
Chapter 12).
The fuses are mounted in a panel located at
the lower right-hand corner of the facia under
a removable cover.
If a single indicator light, brake light or
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer
to Chapter 12 for details.
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible
that the brake light switch above the brake
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation
is described in Chapter 9.
1
If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
or garage door and operate
the lights. The reflected light should
show if they are working properly.
4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.
4 Visually check all wiring connectors,
harnesses and retaining clips for security, and
for signs of chafing or damage.
2 3
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To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
fully away from the glass until it locks.
Swivel the blade through 90°, press the
locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the
blade out of the arm's hooked end. On
refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely
into the arm.
Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, wiper blades should be renewed
annually, as a matter of course.
21
Weekly checks
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
“Safety first” at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.
The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The
exterior of the battery should be inspected
periodically for damage such as a cracked
case or cover.
Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
to ensure good electrical connections.
You should not be able to move them. Also
check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed
conductors.
If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...
1 2
3
... as well as the battery cable clamps
4
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.
Wiper blades
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Weekly checks
It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is completely
effective, you may have the expense of
replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
car , the rear wheels could be out of balance.
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
tyre dealer or garage.
Tyre Pressure Check
Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.
Tread Depth - manual check
Alternatively tread wear can be monitored
with a simple, inexpensive device known
as a tread depth indicator gauge.
Tread Depth - visual check
The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
The band positions are indicated by a
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).
1 2 3
Tyre condition and pressure
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
4
Page 17
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Front Rear
Early models (up to 1993 model year)
1.4 and 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 psi (1.9 bar) 24 psi (1.7 bar)
2.0 litre 8-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)
2.0 litre 16-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 psi (2.5 bar) 33 psi (2.3 bar)
Later models (1993 model year onwards)
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 psi (2.0 bar) 26 psi (1.8 bar)
1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 psi (2.2 bar) 28.5 psi (2.0 bar)
2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.4 bar) 31.5 psi (2.2 bar)
Tyre pressures
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
Adhesive sealing compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90485251
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF(i.e. P/N 90350342)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4
(i.e. P/N 90007080)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to
20W/50, to API SG/CD
Locking compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90167347
Long life grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Molybdenum disulphide grease (MoS2)
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 EP
(i.e. Vauxhall P/N 90188629)
Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF (i.e. P/N 90350342)
Sealing compound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90094714
Silicone grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vauxhall P/N 90167353
Page 18
Notes
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