Chandler DARNER Operating Instructions Manual

OPERATING

INSTRUCTIONS

for

the

CHANDLER

DARNER

All

Models

ckax:dler

Mi-..-.

Ayer,

CO.

KNOW

YOUR

DARNER!

Read

these

instructions

carefully

and

thoroughly

before

operating

machine.

CHANDLE

A -

Top

Thread

Tension

K -

Motor

B -

Take-up

Lever

L -

Bobbin

Winder

C -

Top

Thread

Guide

M -

Bobbin

Winder

Tension

D -

Face

Plate

N -

Thumb

Screw

for

Thread

Hook

Tilting

Head

E -

Needle

Bar

O -

Hand

Wheel

Thread

Guide

P -

Spool

Pin

(Rear)

F -

Presser

Foot

Lifter

Adjustment

R -

Take-up

Spring

G -

Needle

Clamp

Screw

S -

Latch

Sleeve

H -

Presser

Foot

T -

Presser

Foot

1 -

Spool

Pin

(Front)

Thumb

Screw

To

Thread

the

Machine

Fig.

2

Pass

the

thread

from

the

thread-stand

hook

through

the

spool

pinI,through

upper

thread

guide

C

and

down

behind

lower

thread

guide

I.

Next

lead

the

thread

to

the

right

of

and

between

the

two

tension

washers

A,

drawing

the

thread

to

the

left

and

then

up

into

the

take-up

spring

and

again

behind

thread

guide

I.

Now

lead

the

thread

through

the

hole

in

the

take-up

lever

B,

and

down

the

face

of

the

machine

through

guides

D

and

E.

Finally,

draw

the

thread

through

the

eye

of

the

needle

from LEFT to RIGHT.

To

Remove

the

Bobbin

Turn

the

hand

wheel

toward

you

imtil

the

needle

bar

is

in

its

uppermost

position.

Then

lift

up

on

latch

A

(Fig.

4)

located

under

the

nickeled

sleeve

S

on

the

mend

ing

arm.

This

allows

the

bobbin

case

holder

to fall

back

on

its

hinge

releasing

the

bobbin

case.

Lift

up

hinging

clamp

F (Fig. 3)

with

the

fingernail

and

shake

out

the

bobbin.

To

Wind

the

Bobbin

To

wind

the

bobbin,

place

it

on

the

spindle

of

the

bobbin

winder

L (Fig. 1).

Now

lead

the

thread

from

the

guide

pin

I

down

the

front of

the

machine,

to

the

left

of

and

between

the

tension

discs

M,

and

up

to

the

bob

bin.

Wind

the

thread

around

the

bobbin

a

few

times

by

hand,

and

then

raise

the

bobbin-winder

unit

against

the

hand

wheel

belt.

The

tension

spring

will

hold

it

in

this

position.

Then

release

the

hand

wheel

for

winding

the

bobbin,

by

placing

your

left

hand

on

the

hand

wheel

and

with

your

right

loosening

the

hand

wheel

knob,

a

quar

ter

turn

toward

you

or

until

it is free.

This

will

allow

the

hand

wheel

to

turn

without

running

the

rest

of

the

ma

chine.

After

the

bobbin

has

been

wound,

the

knob

must

be

retightened.

If

the

machine

is

already

threaded,

the

operator

may

save

rethreading

the

machine

by

winding

the

bobbin

by

the

following

alternate

method:

1.

Release

thread

tension

by

raising

the

hand

lifter

W (Fig. 8).

2.

Then,

remove

the

thread

from

the

needle

and

draw

the

thread

from

the

last

thread

guide

E (Fig. 2) to

the

tension

discs

M

and

up

to

the

bobbin

on

the

winder

arm.

Always

lower

the

bobbin

winder

unit

to

save

un

necessary

wear

against

the

belt.

Fig.

3

To

Thread

the

Bobbin

Case

Hold

the

bobbin

in

the

right

hand

between

the

thumb

and

forefinger

with

the

thread

drawing

off

at

the

bottom

toward

the

right.

With

the

left

hand

hold

the

bobbin

case

with

the

hinge

"F"

opened.

Now

insert

the

bobbin

on

the

center

stem

E,

draw

the

thread

through

slot

D

and

under

the

tension

spring

C.

Care

should

be

taken

to

see

that

the

thread

is

under

the

spring.

From

the

spring,

lead

the

thread

to

the

projection

on

the

bobbin

case

and

draw

it

through

the

hole

B.

The

bobbin

case

is

now

threaded

and

ready

to

be

placed

in

the

machine.

To Replace

the

Bobbin

Case

And

Complete

Threading

Fig.

4

After

the

bobbin

case

is

threaded,

take

it in

your

left

hand

and

place

it

onto

the

bobbin

case

holder.

The

projection

of

the

bobbin

case

should

lie

in

the

cut-out

of

the

holder.

Retaining

your

hold

on

the

thread

will

keep

the

bobbin

case

lying

in

the

proper

position

while

closing

the

bobbin

case

holder.

To

close,

merely

snap

up

the

bobbin

case

holder

so

that

the

retaining

latch

will

lock

it in

place.

Before

closing

latch,

make

sure

no

accumulated

thread

is

in

the

hook,

and

be

sure

the

needle

is in its

uppermost

position.Ifthe

needle

is

down,

the

latch

will

not

close

and any

attempts

to

force

it

will

break

the

needle.

Hold

top

thread

and

turn

machine

by

hand

one

full

revolution,

drawing

bobbin

thread

up

through

needle

hole

in

sleeve.

Lay

both

threads

under

presser

foot to

the

rear.

To

Begin

Mending

With

the

machine

properly

threaded,

you

are

now

ready

to

begin

mending.

A

few

pieces

of

scrap

material

should

be

used

to

become

accustomed

to

the

feel

of

the

machine.

Lift

up

the

presser

foot

by

means

of

the

hand

lifter

"W"

(Fig. 8)

and

insert

the

material

to

be

darned

beneath

the

presser

foot.

Then

release

the

hand

lifter

to

lower

the

presser

foot

in

operating

position.

A

slight

pressure

to

the

knee

or foot

rheostat

will

start

the

machine.

Fig.

5

The

correct

method

of

holding

the

material

is

shown

above.

The

fingers

should

be

held

as

close

to

the

presser

foot

as

the

hole

to

be

mended

will

allow.

This

method

of

holding

prevents

the

material

from

wrinkling

and

allows

better

control

of

the

cloth.

Now

oscillate

the

material,

first

forward

and

back

and

to

finish,

from

side

to

side.

After

the

mend

is

completed,

lift

up

the

presser

foot,

turn

the

hand

wheel

toward

you

until

the

needle

clears

the

material.

Draw

the

material

out

and

break

off

the

threads.

Procedure

In

Mending

A

Hole

When

mending

a

hole,

it is

always

best

to

run

a

row

of

stitching

around

the

hole

to

tie

down

the

loose

threads.

This

is

especially

true

in

the

case

of

materials

which

hove

a

tendency

to

run,

as

in

socks.

Next

sew

across

the

hole

forward

and

back

until

the

hole

has

been

covered

with

straight

rows

of

stitching

all

in

the

same

direction.

Now

go

over

the

hole

again

in

the

opposite

direction

moving

the

cloth

from

side

to

side

to

form

stitching

at

right

angles

to

that

previously

done.

The

illustration

shows

the

steps

in

darning

a

hole.

f'y

I

^ y 'jr

Jil

1 • - ' » £ yj

Fig.

6

Be

sure

to

catch

the

thread

in

the

material

on

BOTH

sides

of

the

hole.

Never

go

half

way

across

the

hole

and

return

to

the

same

side.

Be

sure

you

catch

the

thread

on

the

other

side

before

crossing

back

again

over

the

hole.

The

material

must

be

kept

in

motion

at

all

times,

as

to

stop

the

cloth

will

pile

the

stitching

in

one

spot

and

cause

the

thread

to

break.

The

operator

may

find

other

methods

of

darning

more

suitable,

depending

on

what

one

finds

most

convenient,

but

always

bear

in

mind

that

fast

movement

of

the

cloth

with

the

machine

running

at

slow

speeds

makes

large

stitches,

while

slow

movement

of

the

cloth

with

the

machine

running

at

high

speed

makes

fine

stitches.

The

operator

must

become

accustomed

to

moving

the

cloth

in

relation

to

the

speed

to

make

neat,

even

stitches

that

result

in

perfect

mending.

Some

holes

may

be

too

large

for

darning

with

thread

alone.

In

this

case

mend

by

patching,

darning

around

the

patch

after

trimming

stray

threads

or

folding

back

the

edges

to

the

underside.

Then

trim off

the

corners

of

the

patch

on

the

underside

of

the

material.

Use

of

the

Flat

Work

Plate

When

there

is a

great

deal

of

flat

work

to

be

mended,

you

will

find

the

Chandler

Flat

Work

Plate

of

real

value.

(Page

19). To install this

plate

simply

lift

up

the

presser

foot. Be

sure

the

needle

is

at

its

highest

point

and

slide

the

plate

on

to

the

sleeve

of

this

machine.

The

sleeve

will fit in the cut-out in the plate. Then tighten

the

clamp-

screw

at

the

bottom

of

the

yoke,

and

the

plate

is

set

for

sewing.

This

plate

will

be

found

to

be

a

great

help

where

a

larger

surface

is

needed

than

provided

by

the

sleeve

of the machine. Some operators

use

the plate in mending

with

patches,

as

the

extra

surface

allows

free

and

con

venient

handling

of

the

patch

under

the

article

to

be

mended.

To

Regulate

the

Tensions

The

small

thumb

nut

in

front

of

the

tension

discs

A

(Fig. I

6c

2) is for

regulating

the

top

thread

tension. To

tighten

the

top

thread

tension,

turn

this

nut

clockwise

and

to

loosen

the

tension

turn

counter

clockwise.

The tension on

the

bobbin

thread

is

regulated

by

the

small

spring

tension

screw

A (Fig. 3)

located

in

the

center

of

the

bobbin

case

thread

tension

spring

C (Fig. 3),

Take

the

small

screw

driver

furnished

with

the

ac

cessories

and

turn

this

screw

to

the

left

to

loosen

the

bob

bin

thread

tension

and

to

the

right

to

increase

the

tension.

The

correct

tension

on

the

bobbin

thread

is

deter

mined

by

hanging

the

bobbin

case

by

the

thread.

If

the

tension

is

too

loose,

the

bobbin

case

will

slide

down

the

thread.

The

correct

tension

is

one

which

will

allow

the

bobbin

to

be

shaken

down

the

thread.

If

the

bobbin

can

not

be

shaken down the thread, the tension is too tight.

The

usual

procedure

is to

set

the

bobbin

tension

first

and

then

the

top

thread

tension

is

adjusted

until

the

stitch

on

the

under

side

of

the

material

is perfect

and

no

loops

are

formed

as

decribed in the following

paragraphs.