Chandler 543, 546, 548, 552, 554 User Manual

...
®
an
INSTRUCTION
TACKERS
BUTTON
BOOK
er
&
PARIS
SEWERS
BOOK
CLASSES:
552, 554, 555, 558,
600, 660, 710
cJ..ancller
CHAN
oyer,
543, 546, 548,
DL
ERM~HINE
mass.Ol432 u.
s.a
,
tel.
(617)
560,
~
CO
772-3393
FLAT
HOOK
BUTTON
AND
SEWERS
EYE ............................. Model 710-1HE ..........................
............... Model 710-1 ...............................
Model 710-5 ...............................
Model 710-10 ............................. 24 stitch, side vih
Model 710-35 .............................
710-55 .............................
Model
710-85 .............................
Model
710-120 ........................... 24
Model
Modei710-5HE
..........................
16
stitch. side vih
12
stitch. side vih.,
16
stitch. hack & forth.
16
stitch, cross (X) stitch.
12
stitch, back & forth,
sti~ch,
l6
stitch. side vib
l2
stitch, side vib.,
square
..
..
pattern.
.•
CURRENT PRODUCTION MODELS OF CHANDLER CLASS 600 & 710 MACHINES
auto
clamp lilt.
auto
clamp
lilt.
auto
ch1mp hft.
auto
clump lift.
auto
clamp lift.
auto
clump lift.
auto
clamp clamp
lil1. lift.
auto
WHIPPING
NECKING ......................................... Model 710-IN ............................
SHANK
TACKERS
BONE
JOKERS
BAR
HIG~
TWIN
....................................... Model 710-12 ............................. 24 stitch. for whipping suit buttons.
BU
ffON
SEWERS
......................................... Model 600-15 ............................. 6 stitch. back & forth
RING
.....................................
............................................
TACK
....................................... Model 710-70BT ........................ 24 stitch zig-zag pattern.
LIFT
.......................................
NEEDLE f ACKER
............ Model 710-IS .............................
............... Model 660- ................................. 8 stitch. back & forth,
71
Model Model710-50
Model 710-65 .............................
Model Model
Model 600-60 ............................. 6 stitch, side vih.
Model 600-75 .............................
Model Model
Model 600-75KD .......................
Model
Model600-BR Model
Model
Model
0-5S .............................
.............................
600-25 ............................. 8 stitch, back & forth
600-25S ........................... 8 stitch, side
600-750
600-75K ..........................
600-95 ............................. 6 stitch,
600-BR.500 .....................
600- ................................. Special machines for
658
..........................
............................
or
758 ....................... Full ~ inch bigger
16
stitch. side vib.
16
stitch. side vib
12
stitch. side
12
stitch. hack & forth, front loading.
16
stitch.
12
stitch,
12
stitch.
12
stitch.
(both
of
combination
12
stitch, back & forth vib.
12
stitch, back & forth vih.
Yt
stroke
removable objects. Normally modified square patterns.
Bulky tacking problems. etc. Specify Change prefix from
NOTE: Any built
in
knife mechanism. Add suffix
Please specify needle gauges from increments. Non adjustable.
..
side loading.
vi b ..
side loading.
h<~ck
& forth, front loading. shank master.
vih_-
combination combination combination
above)
for
extra
vib.,
dmpery.
vib ..
dmpery
vib., drapery knife thread
Vlb.
large bone rings.
attaching
stroke.
Designed
"600"
to
"651<".
of
the
above
machines may be
labels
I~ -2~
extra
and
for
"K"
hea
other
extra
above
'Y
needle
cutter
large
shank
machine desired.
equipped
in
~,.
buttons.
with a
STAND
CLAMPS
This
.............................................. Model 2Tc-600-l ........................ Board only
...........................................
edltion
printed
10.1972
Stand,
complete .........................
Stand
..........................................
Stand
..........................................
Flat
button
Shank
button-
..
:-.;;
Shank
button
Snap
........................................... Adjustable,
Snap
........................................... Non-adjustable, square.
Hook
and Whipping Necking Tacking
Tacking ......................................
Bone ring ...................................
Flat
button
....................... Side loaaang ·
.............................
eye
.................................
Complete Complete Complete
Front
Compensating Compensating Front
"H" "K" "K"
loading
part
(shank
round
only
~----~------------~CHANDLER~--------------------
NOTE:
FOR
BUTTONROBOTS, HOPPERS,
CHANDLER
SALES & SERVICE CO.,
AUTOMATIC
246
7th
AVE
FEEDING DEVICES CONTACT
.•
N.Y., N.Y.
legs. I
IOV. legs. IIOV. legs. 220V.
master)
or
square
10001
TEL.
212-226-7300
:..
.....
MECHANICS
THREADING DIAGRAM
INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
Facing
illustration,
10
the
1 From Spool 2
3
4 5
6 7 8
Thread
9
Catch eye Needle
Then Slide
of above
Repeat Pass
Front Slide Pass Insert
forward thru
thread
Tension
thread Guide
thread
down and around
of
FOR
Machine
proceed
A,
in
detailed
step
thru
Needle
under
thread
the
Bar
Thread
THREADING
as
shown in
as
follows:
pass
between
Post
number 3 for
forward
Pin into
Tension
in
Needle
thread
Rear
E,
view.
t·hru
H
and
slot
Bar
Needle
from
Guide)
Rear
then to
J and down to
Roller Take-up
Disc
thru Spool
Guide
Tension
Front
hole
Thread
Face
Bar
Thread
front to
the
Stand
Pin
·C. Disc
the
right hand
Tension.
in
Thread
Guide I
in Lower Guide
M
(left
Plate
Guide back.
D on
in
the
right
to right). N.
0 and
Slack top
(For
Arm
B.
the
side
Pull-of£
of of
Plate
all models
left
of
Face Pin
L.
pass
Pin
Plate.
K.
it
hand
Lever
thru
side
F
as
G,
the
having
~--------------~CHANDLER~--------------~
CHANDLERl
-CHANICS
IISTRUOIOIIS
TIMING
LOOPER
The
usual
TO
NEEDLE
procedure for timing the Looper and first er height to
Looper.
Needle
to time the Loop-
and then
of
the point
This
complished
Insert
1 fuJl length Needle
Bar hole and
tighten Screw A
Bar,
set
is
the
the Needle
of
the
is
ac-
as
follows:
new Needle
of
the
(Fig.1)
2 As a preliminary
setting, point approximately in with the
of
make
the
center
sure
Needle
of
the
is
line
the Looper Shaft when the Needle
1 owes t depth of
Bar
is
at
the
its
stroke.
Adjustment
is
made by means
BAR
t.Boftom
( Neeel/e
of
Screw B (Figure 1).
ol
Sirek
FIGURE
2
FIGURE
1
FIGURE
2A
3 Turn
thus stroke
At the loosen desired
4
There of proper Looper
the
raising
as
this
time,
left
side Screws C (Figure 3) and amount in
should
the
Looper
clearance
in
5 As a final
lation (as when the
to
described
passing
Needle
This- final the
weight and
The
break vary setting the
according
the
Needle but within a range
machine by hand,
the Needle
shown in
the
be a
or
out the
setting,
the
lift
in
the
Figure
point
of
the either
space
and the
by
loosening
now
(or up
preceeding
Needle
of
Needle
direction.
Needle
desired
stroke),
Eye. setting
of
point
may
softness
the
loop (or loop formation)
to
of
have of
the
the
rotating
5/32
of
2. the
as
of
light
as
Screw D
amount.
that
the Looper
item 2)
is
approximately
to
the thread
thread
Looper
of
the
an inch
Lqoper
should
shown in
rotate
Tighten
barely shown in
(Figure
the Needle
so
that
be
varied
or
used.
closer
This
or
approximately
Looper
from
Figure
Knurled
Screws C
visible
Figure
counterclockwise,
the bottom
be
barely
2.
Looper
securely.
between the
2A.
3) and moving
is
properly timed in re-
Bar
can
be. the point 1/32
slightly
material
at
the
will
further
1/32
of
of
an
depending upon
being
Needle
possibly from
of
of
visible
To
adjust, Holder
point
Adjust
readjusted
the
looper
inch
above
used.
Eye
require
the
eye
an inch.
its
on
for
the
may
of
----------------~CHANDLER~----------------
CHANDLER2
MECHANICS
IISTRUOIOIIS
\
~
TIMING
Lateral
1
Radial
2
THE
Setting
When point front edge Figure
To or sure Eccentric
FINGER
- (Controlled by Barrel
the
Finger
of
the
3A.
adjust,
backward
that
J,
has
Finger
of
the
loosen
the
desired
Eccentric
otherwise
Screw
same amount Shaft F
Setting
When be edge
Tc.
into Turning
observe cleared
movement. same Finger ways
- (Controlled by
the
Needle
approximately
of
the
Finger
adjust,
correct
loosen
position,
the
carefully
the
The
is
1/16"
Clamp Screw
machine
that
Finger,
Finger
time. Dotted
point. Barrel Cam I must be
at
the same time
reached
should
slot
in
extend the
EA
amount.
Finger
G
Finger
is
moved forward.)
Eccentric
at
the very bottom
clearance
as
shown in
and
tighten Clamp Screw
slowlf
at
the
the
Finger
should
line
in
Figure
that
Cam
its
I,
Figure
most forward
3)
approximately
Throat
(Figure
{In
does
G will
J,
between the
Figure
GA
Plate
as
3) and move Shaft F forward
moving Shaft F forward, make
not bind
have
Figure
of
to
3)
its
Needle
3B.
(Figure
3) and move GA
in
the
instant
must
direction
the point
start
of
its
move backwards and
3C
shows
adjusted
Eccentric
J moves
to pull
lateral
1/32"
position,
beyond
shown below in
against be
stroke
moved
there
and
shoulder
back
the
the
securely. normal operation,
of
the Needle counterclockwise
sideways
approximate
path
Finger
Finger
backward.
the the
of
the
should
back
Finger
has
at
the
of
side-
To
adjust, Finger securely
FIGURE
Finger while
~--------------~CHANDLER~--------------~
loosen
Eccentric
after
3
FIGURE
moving forward
Needle
making
3A
descending.
3
Set
Screws H (Figure 3) and
on Shaft the
adjustment.
FIGURE
Finger
time
Throat
and
position
Needle
Plate
returns.
desired
38
from
enters
hole
amount.
Dotted
of
Finger starts and
sideways
as
Needle
of
Finger.
II
ne
point.
moving
clears
retard
Retighten
shows
path
Finger backward as
soon
back
or
ad'vance
Screws
CHANDLERS
MECHANICS
INSTRUCTIONS
THREAD LO
\\'he n the has
ascended
1/8
or 5/ the of
hi
the
ghest
stroke of
th e
the
sewi
thr
ead
shou
32
on
last
ng
CK
TIMING
Needle
to
inch
po
Needle
completion stroke
cycle,
ld
be locked
Bar
within
from
int
Bar
of
the
by the forwa rd pressure of
Plunger
PI
ate B
The l in e
the
ocked
Thr
wh
stops,
thread
break when
is 1 ift
Caut
have To a
or
ion
out
a t
dju
ed.
:
st,
the
A
against
(Figu
re
1A).
ead
shoul d
e n the mach-
otherwise
will
the
Clamp
Excessive
endency
loose
to
n Lock
desired
be
not
pressure
fra c
amount.
ADJUST
of
ture the
Nu
MENT
FIGURE l A
of the P l
thr
ead
t C (Figu
Be sure
re
to
unge
causi
2)
tigh
r on li
ng
excessive thread breakage.
and
turn Ad j
ten L
ght
ock
FIGURE 1
or weak
usting
Nut
C
thre
Screw
secure
ad
ly.
will
D in
FIGURE 2
~------
CHANDLER
4
----
N ote: Machi
usually li
ght
use
Lo
on ligh t
For heavy thr heavier (See
On r stroke ing
L
ock thr the
Plate
esuming
of
cycle,
must release
ead
some
Ne
edle the lowest the
s t
roke
t
hread when (Figur
i
ts return upward
Br
1s
is
the
e 1)
acket
provided so that Leve
r may
or
advance
ming
ti
.
nes
e
quipped
ck
Spring
with
thread
Lo
eads
ck
us
Spring
1 ).
the
first
the new
th e
time
Bar
sew
Thre
befo
reache
point
so
that
not held tigh t
Take
-up E
above starts
s t
roke
F (Fig
the
with Tr
ip
ure
slots Lock
be retarded
d fo r proper
--------~CHANDLERr----------------
are
for
.
e
-
ad
the
re
s
of
the
12)
--
.
--~
FIGURE 1
MECHANIC
INSTRUCTIONS
0
TIMING
On the Te
nsion intermittent e
nd Spool instead amo by means to b
elow. may
Loosen until within thread
To sion an inch from th e
ADJUSTMENT
Tightness Ad ju s tme knots as
top
of
each
unt
of
utili
ze However,
be
adjusted
Set Screw
Tension
5/32
but
prevent
s ho
nt
on the
follows
OF
TOP
of
the
B
and
thr
ead lockin g t
stitch.
of
tension
of
Set
Rear
B
of
l/ 8
thread
uld release
OF
of
the stit
is too tig
under
:
INTERMITTENT
machin
Front
Tension th e time a t
as
locks
an
of
Tens
This pr
pulling
for l
ock
Screw
F
a n breakage
top
NORMAL
E
follows :
(Fi
gu re
the
inch
inch
th e
thr
of
its
ch i s regul ated ht
th e
side
TENSION
e th
ere
are two
ion
A (See Figure 1).
ens
ion
which locks
eve
nt s the
up
the l
oop
ing
the
thr
(Figure
B for
l)
thr
ead
from the top
or l
or extr
ead
stroke
THREAD
Looper
of
the butt
adjusting
which
and
ess
eme
when
.
l)
wh
on
will
on
thread tens
Loop
at
the
ead
is
therefore,
the
thread
turn
Adjusting
en
th e
of
the
heavy
ly light the
Needle
TENSION
by
Front
s n
ap
will
ion adjustments •••
Rear
the
er from s tealing
end of
factory
do
the normal tension
is
Needle
Needle
thread.
thread,
Bar
Ten
sio
th e thread,
be loose.
Tension
thr
ead
prior
each
set
reasonably
not
dist
urb or
locked
Screw
Bar
Bar stroke on lig
the
is
n A.
by
G
has
Intermittent
at leas
If
if too loose
Adjus tm
B
is
to
thr
ead
stitc
h.
atte
expl
ained
Tension
up
or
down
ascended
t 5/
32
the
Tension
ent
is
made
Rear
an
the
from
The
tight
mpt
B
to ht
Ten-
of
the
Turn
"UP"
Face Need tight achieved
~------
handwheel
position.
Plate
le to be
or
to o l
.
is
at
Lower
open
sure
oose,
----------
the
end
of
the
th e
Button
(center
it pulls thru
turn
plunger
Tension
Clamp
with A up
--~CHANDLER~
Mainshaft
so
is
rele slight
or
until
the
ased
down
--
Rear Tension
Thread
).
Pull
tension.
until
the
If
prop
Lock
thread
ten
H on
s ion is
er
tension
B
at
is
in the the too
is
----------------~
CHANDLER 5
MECHANICS
FIGURE 1
INSTRUOIONS
STOP
On
completion
B
(Figure
Holder st
ruction
To
advance
Kick-off To
retard
en
Screw E
KICK-OFF
of
1)
just
D. The
s will
Finger
apply
moment
moment
securely.
FINGER
the
as
illu
F
to
of
MECHANISM
Button
Stop
stration
to all models .
of
the left,
release,
Finger
rel
ease,
Sewing
C
shows
loosen
move
Cycle,
(Figure
an
earlier
Screw
Kick-off
Latch
2)
has
model
E
Finger
FIGURE 2
A
shou
cleared
(Figure
F· to
ld
but
the
release
Bumper
the
same
1)
and
right.
Block
Spring
in
move
Tight-
~----------------~CHANDLER~----------------
CHANDLER 6
~
MECHANICS
INSTRUCTIONS
AUTOMATIC
To set
in the automatic pedal
contro
connecting
of With stud A clamp
C a
quired,
Adjustment of n thread slack tain
The controls in the s F off the
lift
nd
turning adj
ecessi
troke.
tate a compensating
the
automat
rel
ation
rising
Fig.
1 and
point
roller G as
CLAMP
Automatic
the
automatic
l)
insert
strap B as
in
is
controlled
kick
proper amount of thread
ic
lifter
the timing of
to th
of
the
For
proper tim ing, loosen two screw
swing
is approxim
LIFTER
Operation
clamp
operating position
stud A in the forward hole
this
pos
by l
ustin
g nut D
the
amount
pin H
Fig. 2 in
actuatin
the lowering of
e first
clamp on
shown
needle
bracket E so that its drop-
ately
in
Fig.
MECHANISM
lift
illustrat
ition
, the amount
oose
ning ch
in
of clamp
adjustment
g br
acke
bar
the
final need
on the
1A
.
er
ed
or out
ordet
scroke, and
centerli
mechanism
(or sin
t E
the
gle
in
Fig.
eck
nut
as
lift
may
of
the
to main-
take-off.
Fig.
clamp
le
bar
ne
1.
of
re-
1,
s
of
FIGURE 1 FIGURE
Manual
To
convert the machin e from manual cla mov
e nut 1 insert stud A in tighten now inoperative, stnce
contacts
mp
Fig.
sec
urely.
bracket
lift
Operation
(or two
1,
lift
hol e
The automatic
E.
automatic
pedal contro connecting strap B X.
RepLace nut I and
function
roller
G no
longer
lA
to
l) re-
and
is
FIGURE 2
~--------------~C
Adjustment made by liftin
g .bracket 543-213 located
the machine (See
Ei
ther
a compen kick
pin H Fig.
amo
unt of thr
HANDLER~----------
for the amount of clamp
me
of
the
sating adjustment of
ans of
above
ead
the adju
parts
plate 9).
adjustments
2 in order to maintain
take
-off.
lift
sting s
crew
in
the b
may ne
the
thread slack
the
cess
------~
is now
in
the
ase
of
itat
e
proper
CHANDLER 7
BASIC
COMMON
PARTS
I
2857-95
1
543-33
8
543-32
10
543-31
11
543-28
12
543-27
HEAD
and
TENSION
DETAILS
~32
2
856-144
2
857-93
2
857-97
(old
543-
2BS6-
93
21
31
33
43)
34
/8
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
543-37 54
543-
S
.
EE
PLATE
2.
CHANDLER 8
CHANGES: 08.1972
1.
was
543-1002A
2.
was
543-35
3.
was
543-35
4.
was
5.
543-84
was
543-1002A
BASIC
COMMON
PARTS
I
543-/006
2
543-69
7
543-64
8
543-65
9 543-1010
NEEDLE BAR
DRIVE
MECHANISM
543-10 543-68
543-66
3 /
32
33
34
II
12
13
14
No.7 No.5
15
543-200/
16
17
18
/9
20
21
22
Nudls
Hsa1 Ligh
*
Omitted Later
35
36
37
38
on
Models
~----------------~CHANDLERr-----------------~
CHANGES: 08.1972
1.
was 543-1003
CHANDLER 9
BASIC
COMMON
PARTS
CLAMP
2 543 08 038
8
LIFT
and
THREAD SLACK MECHANISM
' I
®
9
10
II
12
15
.....:::5;__;4...:::..3.......:-8::....::9...:...:A._,
18-
24
25
26
27
CHANDLER
CHANGES
1.
was
2. was 543
3.
was
10
08.1972
543-90
-92A
543-84
BASIC
COMMON
PARTS
2
543-/96
AUTOMATIC
THREAD LOCKING MECHANISM
SEE
PLATE 3
2856-71
13
14
15
16
/1
/8
0
@
5
543-144
6
1
8
l.
/0
@
543-1021
CHANGES:
1.
was
543-90
2.
was
5
was
43-90 54 543--
543 -101
3.
4. was
5. was
08.1
3-169
1012
*
~
FOR
972
TWO NEEDLE TACK
ER USE
NO. 560
CHANDLER
-40
4
2857-161
CHAN
DLER
/9
20
21
22
23
®
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