Chandler 401, 461, 471, 472P, 475P User Manual

OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
For
the
CHANDLER
BUTTON
Models
401 461 471
475P
SEWER
CHANDLER
Ayer,
MACHINE
Mass.
CO.
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
Read
to fully
these
understand
instructions
your
carefully
machine.
and
thoroughly
A -
B -
C -
D -
E -
F -
G -
Front
Rear
Thread
Thread
Needle
Face
Button
Thread
Intermittent
Slack
Lock
Bar
Thread
Plate
Thread
Clamp
chandler
Tension
Tension
Lever
Take-Up
Guide
laws
H -
Needle
I -
Button
J -
Hand
K -
Clamp
L -
Handwheel
M -
Handwheel
N -
Base
hole
Clamp
Wheel
Lifter
Thumb
Plate
Release
Knob
Stop
Screw
Top
Plate
Knob
Pin
f-
BUTTON SEWER
stand.
33"
to
Weight:
47".
46
Lbs.
with
v^ithout
Special
machine.
Telescoping
Adjustable
adjustable
from
The
Chandler
erated
industries
machine.
hospitals,
It
will
from
the
pajamas,
The
Sewing
blocked
button
the
the
thread
The
cross
at
clamp
sewing
stitch,atthe
as
laundries,
hotels,
handle
smallest
coats,
the
to
on
the
over
{on a 4
very
Button It is
purposely
coat
dry
cleaners,
either2hole
shirt
aprons,
cycle
is fully
completion
release
underside
cycle
consists
hole
endofthe
Sewer
button
etc.
of
the
button)
is a
designed
and
apron
etc.
or4hole
to
automatic,
the
material
of
the
of 12
cycle.
single
supplies,
that
used
sewing
automatically
button.
stitches,
and
thread,
for
buttons
the
cycle.
the
tieing, or
hand
use
institutions,
in
on
underwear,
flywheel
Raising
which
op
in
such
any
size
being
breaks
includes
locking
the
Double
button
lowering
releases
cycle.
Thread
upto12,000
clamp.
of
the
release
the
hand
The
button
controls
right
wheel
clamp
for
standinrearofmachine
yard
size.
are
located
hand
button
whereas
the
continuationofthe
to
controls
the
head
the
right
the
left
hand
provides
lifting
next
button
sewing
for
of
and
cones
the
w
m
THREADING
Threadingisthe
the
Chandler
consider after carefully unpacking the machine
it UD
for
use.
first
phase
Button Sewer,
in the successful
and
usually the first step to
operation
and
setting
of
Careful attention to the proper threading procedure is
most
importantinordertobe
by
the
machine.
Two views
threading
steps:
andtohelp
1. From
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
the
pin
whichislocated
Passitbetween
the
tension
pin
locatedinthe
Carry
the of
Pass
off
Then
over
the
LEFT of
the
little
thread
lever.
through
to the hole in
spool
are
herewith
makeitclear,
pin
post
thread
the
pininthe
through
front
the
assuredofperfect
shown
pass
the
thread
on
the
rear
tension
and
then
to
slotofthe
alongtothe
tension
slotofthe
the
guide
the
top
post
holeofthe
pin
of the face plate.
outlining the
we
outline
through
very
rearofthe
discs
the
RIGHT of
discs.
front disc
and
then
discs
and
performance
the
the
to
the
keeping
to
(sameas2).
thread
proper
following
first
guide
top
LEFT
the
the
RIGHT
slack
arm.
of
small
it to
pull
7.
Then
lock
which
plate
down
8.
From
guide
underneath.
9. Insert the
needle
10.
Then endofthe
eye
of
1-6
push
the
thread
is
(making
as
the
plate
located
sure
otherwise
thread
by
thread
bar
passingitthrough
guide
the
face
the
needle
6-10
the
the
lock
merely
through
thread
plate
from
see
tig.
2
through
on
clamp
thread
catch
the
the
left
that
lockisclosed).
the
pulling
the
thread
centerofthe
thread
the
from left to right.
through
and
FRONTtoBACK.
see
pass
fig. 3
the
the
center
holds
of
the
in
thread
take-up
holeinthe
thread
through
the
button
the
up
on the
thread
face
lower
from
lower
the
is
yj
Fig.
3
TENSIONS
There
are
only two
thread
tension adjustments,
both
are
at the top of the machine. The rear thread tension "B"
vFig.
1) is
an
light. (This
set
screw
do not
change
intermittent tension
rear
tension is locked in position
on
the
sideofthe
it for
thumb
adjusting
and
must
nut.
It is
tension on
be
by
means
"factory
the
thread.
kept
set"
very
of a
so
This
rear
adjustment
stitch to
cone
of
keep
insteadofpullingupthe
The
iront
the
stitch
shouldbelight
until it
position
released.
thread
stops
you
lockonthe
Then pull the
onlyaslight
the
FIRST
merely
the
looper
tension
and
is
and
(hand
will
note
At
the
same
face
threadatthe
tension.
tension,
holds
the
the
"A"
from
(Fig. 1)
most
thread
stealing
loop
important
more
under
regulates
before
thread
the
button).
one.
the
the
This
canbedeterminedbyturning the
wheelisup
the
time
plateisopen
needletobe
When
"A",ahalf
rear
lower
tension
against
tension is
the
(center
is too tight,
turn
atatime
stop
pin). In this
raised
button
clamp
plunger
sure
it pulls free with
until
then
end
of a
from
the
tightness
tension
machine
and
thus
so
the
is loose).
loosen
thread
pulls freely through the needle. If too loose tighten it slowly.
the
button
If first
thread.
BE
tension
If
too
willbeloose,
SURE
YOU
"A"
is
too
tight
loose
the
knots
makingaloosely
MAKE
THESE
the
on
the
sewed
THREAD
looper
under
button.
TENSION
will
side
of
snap
the
AD-
lUSTMENTS ONLY WHEN THE HAND WHEEL IS BLOCKED
BY
THE
PIN
AND
THE
BUTTON
SEWING
Before the operator
control
as
button
(red
faraspossible so
lever on top of the
when
the
clamp
provided.
At
the
least
2V2"ofthread
IF
THEREISNO
THE
MACHINE
OF
THE NEEDLE, THE LOOPER WILL
THREAD
sewing
and
without
is lowered, the
same
time,
AND
the
even
can
color,
see
that
the
machine
the
projecting from
SLACK
machine
NO
IN
EXTRA
making
CLAMP
LOWERED.
PROCEDURE
sew
on a button, the right
Fig. 1)
thread
shouldbepulled
forward
slack pull off (see Fig. 1)
is kicked over to the left. Then
proper
operator
THE
will
go
a stitch. (See Fig. 3,
slack
must
the
THREAD
THREAD
through
see
eye
AT
NOT
in the
that
of
THE
FROM
CATCH
the
thread
thereisat
the
needle.
TOP
THE
full
cycle
Page
6).
hand
OF
EYE
THE
of
is
BUTTON
The
button
clamp
small lever E, (Fig. 10,
plate
is to
set
the
openingofthe
you
may
use.
The
jaws
a
trifle
smaller
is
inserted,
and
thus
On
Page
23),
ment
clear
two
hole
hole
button.
thumb
screwsothe
Needles
TOWARDS
way
up
the
old
needle
should
LER
become
THE
AS
the
SHOWN
than
the
jaws
hold
it in
left
and
its locking
forward
button.
After
must
THE
into
the
remains
NEEDLES
place.
2
HOLE
sideofthe
towards
Moving it
moving
be
FRONT.
needle
bent,
RECOMMENDED
BELOW
CLAMP
can
Page
ADJUSTMENT
be
openedtoany
23), on
the
jawstothe
should
the
sizeofthe
will
clamp
be
the
adjusted
button
button
AND4HOLE
machine
thumb
the
operator
is a
screw. Moving this
cleartothe
this
adjustment
setting
NEEDLES
inserted
Be
bar.
when
will
not
move
with
the
sure
to
insert
Make
sure
insertinganew
replaceitwithanew
ARE
size
button.
The
top of the button clamp
so
so
with
lever
smallest
that
when
a little
button
they
close
the
button
tension
A, (Fig. 10,
adjust
sets
the
back
sets
be
suretotighten
while
groove
the
no
broken
one.Ifthe
machine
it for a four
sewing.
of
needle
the
for a
needle
all
part
needle
the
the
one.
GENUINE
CHAND
of
A
B
B
are,
suit
buttons.
B
buttons
supply
The
Check
needles
needles
needles
therefore,
needles
on
or
heavy
overall
needles
your
are
used
for
are
for
472P
have
spear
recommended
canbeused
or highly
work.
illustrated
needle
with
all
Chandler
and
475P
Machines.
point,
are
for cuff
on the
are
hand
starched
exact
illustrationifin
8
material
length.
Hand
one
size
tacking
machines
Button
heavier
and
such
doubt.
for
Sewers.
sewing
sewing
as
linen
and
THREAD
A
coneofthe
suggest
a soft
slippage
Chandler
stitches
usingastrong
thread
and
Button-Sewing
We
suggest
over
machineamuch
crowd
all
the
button.Afour
the of
area
all
the
or
original
the
of
Use
sizes.
spacing
break.
We
button
the
buttons
Watch
may
button
material.
you
missed
the
a
wider
better
stitches
hole
pulling
where
out
is
greater
caution
proper
will
threadissent
glazed,
get
poor
stilches.
Thread.
BUTTONS
hard
results
Best
useof4-hole
area
on
chancetoworkasyou
between
button
on
the
oh,asthe
the
for
very
and
against
is a
shirt
two
good
and
buttonisheld
spacingofthe
largeorvery
may
the
finished
results
buttons.
the
selling
helps
cause
use
with
the
thread.Ifyou
and
experience
canbeobtained
They
material
and
are
holes
as
inatwo
point,itduplicates
eliminate
on
holesisthe
small
buttons
the
needle
of
cheap,
machine.
We
use
thread
with
spread
gives
not
trying
hole
the
danger
overawider
same
where
to
bend
low
price
the
the
to
for
bone or pearl buttons. These buttons have razor sharp edges
at
the
holes
and
making
The
holes
or
deflection
one
think
are
of
would
thereissomething
apttobe
the
needle.
cause
unevenly
the
thread
spaced,
wrong
also
to
cut
with
causing
and
the
break,
machine.
burring
TO
The
left
machine
this the
but
repeat
this will
much
it.
for
button
buttonasecond
merely
the
Do
not
putintoo
thread
START
hand
control
the
next
sewing
forwards.Inthe
time,
pull
back
sewing
repeat
cycle.
this
many
that
the
needle
on
cycle
THE
button
cycle. To
event
do
not
the
blue
too
stitches
will
MACHINE
(blue, J Fig. 1)
release
that
you
pull
back
and
turn
oftenona
and
two
plug
releases
the
machine,
wishtosew
on
the
the
hole
the
holes
bendintryingtogo
red
button,
machine
button
with
through
the
pull
over
to
as
so
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