A Word of Caution .......................................................................................................................... 2
The Schmidt-Cassegrain Optical System ...........................................................................................2
▲▲
ASSEMBLING YOUR ASSEMBLING YOUR
▲
ASSEMBLING YOUR
▲▲
ASSEMBLING YOUR ASSEMBLING YOUR
The The
The
The The
Assembling the CG-5 EquatorialMount.............................................................. 6Assembling the CG-5 EquatorialMount.............................................................. 6
Assembling the CG-5 EquatorialMount.............................................................. 6
Assembling the CG-5 EquatorialMount.............................................................. 6Assembling the CG-5 EquatorialMount.............................................................. 6
Welcome to the Celestron world of amateur astronomy! For more than a quarter
of a century, Celestron has provided amateur astronomers with the tools needed to
explore the universe. The Celestron G-9
1
/
continues in this proud tradition
4
combining large aperture optics with ease of use and portability. With a mirror
diameter of 9.25 inches, your Celestron has a light gathering power of 1,126 times
that of the unaided human eye. Yet despite its large aperture, the Celestron G-9 1/
optical system is extremely compact and portable because it utilizes the Schmidt-
Cassegrain design. This means you can take your Celestron G-9 1/
to the moun-
4
tains or desert or wherever you observe.
The Celestron G-9 1/
is made of the highest quality materials to ensure stability
4
and durability. All this adds up to a telescope that gives you a lifetime of pleasure
with a minimal amount of maintenance. And, your Celestron G-9 1/
is versatile -
4
it grows as your interest in astronomy grows.
Your Celestron G-9 1/
is not limited to astronomical viewing alone. It can also be
4
used for terrestrial viewing to study the world around you. All you need to do is
take the time to familiarize yourself with your Celestron telescope and its opera-
tion.
Read the assembly instructions through completely before you attempt to set up
your Celestron G-9 1/
telescope. Then, once you’ve set up your Celestron G-9 1/
4
you should read the section on ‘Telescope Basics’ before you take it outside and
4
4
use it. This will ensure that you are familiar with your telescope before you try to
use it under a dark sky. Since it will take a few observing sessions to familiarize
yourself with your Celestron G-9 1/
you should keep this manual handy until you
4
have fully mastered your telescope’s operation. After that, save the manual for
future reference.
Introduction • 1
Page 5
A Word of CautionA Word of Caution
A Word of Caution
A Word of CautionA Word of Caution
Your G-9 1/
tions. However, there are a few things to consider before using your telescope that
will ensure your safety and protect your equipment.
telescope is designed to give you hours of fun and rewarding observa-
4
WARNING !WARNING !
WARNING !
WARNING !WARNING !
NEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKEDNEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKED
NEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKED
NEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKEDNEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKED
EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRRE-EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRRE-
EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRRE-
EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRRE-EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
NEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OFNEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OF
NEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OF
NEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OFNEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OF
THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-
THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-
THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILDUP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCES-UP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCES-
UP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCES-
UP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCES-UP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCESSORIES ATTACHED TO IT.SORIES ATTACHED TO IT.
SORIES ATTACHED TO IT.
SORIES ATTACHED TO IT.SORIES ATTACHED TO IT.
NEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHELNEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHEL
NEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHEL
NEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHELNEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHEL
WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELE-WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELE-
WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELE-
WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELE-WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELESCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK,SCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK,
SCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK,
SCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK,SCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK,
ALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGHALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGH
ALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGH
ALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGHALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGH
TO THE EYE.TO THE EYE.
TO THE EYE.
TO THE EYE.TO THE EYE.
NEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHERNEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHER
NEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHER
NEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHERNEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHER
WHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAYWHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAY
WHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAY
WHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAYWHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAY
NOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATINGNOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATING
NOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATING
NOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATINGNOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATING
PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.
PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.
PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.
NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESSNEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS
NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS
NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESSNEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS
YOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USINGYOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USING
YOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USING
YOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USINGYOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USING
YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER,YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER,
YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER,
YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER,YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER,
ALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL INALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL IN
ALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL IN
ALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL INALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL IN
APERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHTAPERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHT
APERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHT
APERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHTAPERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHT
GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRRE-GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRRE-
GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRRE-
GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRRE-GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. IN ADDITION, THE IMAGEVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. IN ADDITION, THE IMAGE
VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. IN ADDITION, THE IMAGE
VERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. IN ADDITION, THE IMAGEVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. IN ADDITION, THE IMAGE
PROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURNPROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURN
PROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURN
PROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURNPROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURN
SKIN OR CLOTHING.SKIN OR CLOTHING.
SKIN OR CLOTHING.
SKIN OR CLOTHING.SKIN OR CLOTHING.
The Schmidt-The Schmidt-
The Schmidt-
The Schmidt-The SchmidtCassegrainCassegrain
Cassegrain
CassegrainCassegrain
Optical SystemOptical System
Optical System
Optical SystemOptical System
2 • Introduction
A telescope is an instrument that collects and focuses light. The nature of the
optical design determines how the light is focused. Some telescopes, known
as refractors, use lenses while others, known as reflectors, use mirrors. The
Schmidt-Cassegrain optical system (or SCT for short) uses a combination of
mirrors and lenses and is referred to as a compound or catadioptric telescope. This
unique design offers large diameter optics while maintaining very short tube
lengths, making them extremely portable. The Schmidt-Cassegrain system
consists of a zero power corrector plate, a spherical primary mirror, and a secondary mirror. Once light rays enter the optical system, they travel the length of the
optical tube three times.
Inside the optical tube you will notice a black tube (not illustrated) that extends
out from the center hole in the primary mirror. This is the primary baffle tube
and it prevents stray light from passing through to the eyepiece or camera.
Page 6
Figure 1-1
This cross-sectional diagram shows the light path of the Schmidt-Cassegrain optical
system. Note that the light rays travel the length of the telescope tube three times,
making this a compact optical design. Note that the curve of the corrector plate is
greatly exaggerated.
Introduction • 3
Page 7
ASSEMBLING ASSEMBLING
ASSEMBLING
ASSEMBLING ASSEMBLING
Unpacking YourUnpacking Your
Unpacking Your
Unpacking YourUnpacking Your
G-9 1/4G-9 1/4
G-9 1/4
G-9 1/4G-9 1/4
YY
OUR OUR
Y
OUR
YY
OUR OUR
AT POLARIS CAT POLARIS C
AT POLARIS C
AT POLARIS CAT POLARIS C
The Celestron G-91/4 is a standard 9.25" Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope on a
German equatorial mount. The Celestron G-91/4 comes standard with
Starbright™ coatings, an enhanced multi-layer aluminum coating on the primary
and secondary mirrors for increased reflectivity. Also, the corrector plate is fully
coated to allow maximum light transmission. The Celestron G-91/4 is shipped in
two boxes. One contains the telescope optical tube and is accompanied by a box
that contains the standard accessories, which are:
• 26mm Plossl Ocular 1-1/4"
• Visual Back 1-1/4"
• Star Diagonal 1-1/4"
• 6x30mm Finder and Bracket
• Lens Cap
The second box contains the tripod, equatorial mount and the hardware needed to
set it up. Included are the:
• CG-5 German Equatorial Mount
• Counterweight Bar
• Two Counterweights (11 lbs each)
• Declination (DEC) Slow Motion Knob
• Right Ascension (R.A.) Slow Motion Knob
• Adjustable Aluminium Tripod
• Accessory Tray
G - 9 G - 9
G - 9 1/4
G - 9 G - 9
When setting up the telescope, find a large, clear area where the parts can be
laid out without fear of losing them. Start with the tripod and mount. Remove
the contents of the box and place them neatly on your work surface. Leave the
optical tube in its box until you are ready to attach it to the mount. Once your G-9
1
/4 has been unpacked and assembled, you will not need the shipping boxes for
everyday storage and transportation. However, you should save them in case you
decide to ship your telescope via a common carrier.
4 • The G-9 1/4
Page 8
13
The G-9 The G-9
The G-9
The G-9 The G-9
11
1
11
//
/
//
44
4
44
1
12
11
10
9
2
3
4
5
6
8
7
1. Lens Cover8. Accessory Tray
2. Dovetail Bar Clamp Knob9. Latitude Adjustment Screw
3. R.A. Lock Lever10. Star Diagonal
4. Counterweight Shaft11. Eyepiece
5. Counterweights12. Finderscope
6. Tripod13. Optical Tube
7. Leg Extention Clamp
Figure 2-1
The G-9 1/4 • 5
Page 9
Setting Up the TripodSetting Up the Tripod
Setting Up the Tripod
Setting Up the TripodSetting Up the Tripod
Adjusting the TripodAdjusting the Tripod
Adjusting the Tripod
Adjusting the TripodAdjusting the Tripod
HeightHeight
Height
HeightHeight
Assembling the CG-5 Equatorial Mount
(#91515)
The tripod comes fully assembled with the metal plate, called the tripod head, that
holds the legs together at the top. In addition, the brackets that support the
accessory tray are also attached to the tripod.
Stand the tripod upright and pull the tripod legs apart until the leg brace assembly
for the accessory tray is fully extended (see figure 2-2). The tripod will now stand
by itself. To increase the stability, tighten the bolts that hold the legs to the tripod
head (use the appropriate size wrench from the supplied set). This will help
minimize any flexure or wobble of the legs.
Once the tripod is set up, you can adjust the height at which it stands. To do
this:
1.Loosen the knob on the leg clamp so that the tripod leg can be adjusted.
2.Slide the center portion of the tripod leg away from the tripod head until it
is at the desired height.
3.Tighten the knobs on each leg clamp to hold the legs in place.
Tripod HeadTripod Head
Tripod Head
Tripod HeadTripod Head
Warning: The G-9
adjusting the tripod height. If you need to make fine adjustments to the tripod while
the scope is mounted, be very careful because it is easy to accidentally knock the
system over!
1
/4 is quite heavy. Because of this, great care should be taken when
Figure 2-2
6 • The G-9 1/4
Page 10
Attaching the AccessoryAttaching the Accessory
Attaching the Accessory
Attaching the AccessoryAttaching the Accessory
TrayTray
Tray
TrayTray
With the tripod set up, you are ready to attach the accessory tray to the tripod.
There are three wing bolts that hold the accessory tray to the bracket.
1.Locate the three wing bolts.
2.Place the accessory tray over the bracket and position it so the thread
holes in the accessory tray are above the slotted holes in the bracket.
3.Insert the wing bolts up through the slotted holes in the bracket (see figure
2-3).
4.Thread the wing bolts into the holes in the accessory tray.
5.Tighten the wing bolts fully.
WingWing
Wing
WingWing
BoltBolt
Bolt
BoltBolt
Figure 2-3Figure 2-3
Figure 2-3
Figure 2-3Figure 2-3
The G-9 1/4 • 7
Page 11
Attaching the EquatorialAttaching the Equatorial
Attaching the Equatorial
Attaching the EquatorialAttaching the Equatorial
MountMount
Mount
MountMount
With the accessory tray in place, the tripod will be much more stable making it
easier to attach the mount and telescope.
The equatorial mount allows you to tilt the telescope’s axis of rotation so that you
can track the stars as they move across the sky. The CG-5 mount is a German
equatorial mount that attaches to the tripod head (i.e., metal plate on the tripod).
On one side of the plate there is an “N” which signifies north. This side of the
tripod will face north when setting up for an astronomical observing session.
Above the “N” is a peg about 3/4" high that points straight up. To attach the
equatorial head:
1.Locate the azimuth adjustment screws on the equatorial mount.
2.Retract the screws so they no longer extend into the azimuth housing
(rectangular extrusion) on the mount.
they are needed later for polar alignment.they are needed later for polar alignment.
they are needed later for polar alignment.
they are needed later for polar alignment.they are needed later for polar alignment.
3.Hold the equatorial mount over the tripod head so that the azimuth housing
is above the metal peg.
4.Place the equatorial mount on the tripod head so that the two are flush.
5.Tighten the knob on the underside of the tripod head to hold the equatorial
mount firmly in place. The knob is already attached and can
removed.
Do NOT remove the screws sinceDo NOT remove the screws since
Do NOT remove the screws since
Do NOT remove the screws sinceDo NOT remove the screws since
NOTNOT
NOT be
NOTNOT
8 • The G-9 1/4
Figure 2-4Figure 2-4
Figure 2-4
Figure 2-4Figure 2-4
Page 12
Attaching the R.A. Slow Motion KnobAttaching the R.A. Slow Motion Knob
Attaching the R.A. Slow Motion Knob
Attaching the R.A. Slow Motion KnobAttaching the R.A. Slow Motion Knob
With the mount securely in place, you are ready to attach some of the accessories
(the telescope tube will be added last). Start with the Right Ascension (R.A.) slow
motion knob. The R.A. slow motion knob allows you to make fine pointing
adjustments in the direction the telescope is aiming (once it is attached to the
mount). To install the knob:
1.Locate the hard plastic shell under the R.A. shafts.
2.Remove either of the two oval tabs by pulling tightly.
3.Line up the flat area on the inner portion of the R.A. slow motion knob with
the flat area on the R.A. shaft (see figure 2-5).
4.Slide the R.A. slow motion knob onto the R.A. shaft.
The knob is a tension fit, so sliding it on holds it in place. As mentioned
above, there are two R.A. shafts, one on either side of the mount. It makes no
difference which shaft you use since both work the same. Use whichever one
you find more convenient. If, after a few observing sessions, you find the R.A.
slow motion knob is more accessible from the other side, pull firmly to remove the
knob, then install it on the opposite side.
Figure 2-5Figure 2-5
Figure 2-5
Figure 2-5Figure 2-5
The G-9 1/4 • 9
Page 13
Attaching the Declination Slow Motion Knob
Like the R.A. slow motion knob, the DEC slow motion knob allows you to make
fine pointing adjustments in the direction the telescope is pointed.
The DEC slow motion knob attaches in the same manner as the R.A. knob.
The shaft that the DEC slow motion knob fits over is toward the top of the
mount, just below the telescope mounting platform. Once again, you have two
shafts to choose from. Use the shaft that is pointing toward the ground. This
makes it easy to reach while looking through the telescope, something which
is quite important when you are observing.
1.Line up the flat area on the inner portion of the DEC slow motion knob with
the flat area on the DEC shaft.
2.Slide the DEC slow motion knob over the DEC shaft (see figure 2-6).
Mounting Platform
Mounting Platform
Safety Screw
DEC Slow Motion
Knob
R.A. Setting
Circle
Polar Housing
Cover
Altitude Adjustment
Control
Telescope
Mounting Screw
DEC Lock
Lever
RA Lock
Lever
Declination Setting
Circle
R.A. Slow Motion
Knob
Azimuth Adjustment
Controls
Figure 2-6
10 • The G-9 1/4
Page 14
Attaching the Counterweight Bar and Counterweights
The last item to be mounted before the telescope tube is the counterweight bar and
counterweights. Used to balanced the telescope, the counterweight bar attaches to
the opposite side of the mount as the telescope. To install the counterweight bar:
1.Retract the counterweight bar lock nut by turning it counterclockwise. This
will expose the threads on the end of the counterweight bar.
2.Thread the counterweight bar into the mount completely. Once again,
threads into the mount opposite the telescopethreads into the mount opposite the telescope
threads into the mount opposite the telescope (see figure 2-7).
threads into the mount opposite the telescopethreads into the mount opposite the telescope
3.Tighten the counterweight bar lock nut fully for added support.
The counterweight bar is now installed. With the counterweight bar in place,
you are ready to attach the counterweights.
1.Lock the DEC clamp to hold the mount in place.
2.Remove the safety thumbscrew on the end of the counterweight bar.
3.Loosen the set screw on the counterweight itself so that the central hole of
the counterweight is unobstructed.
4.Slide the counterweight onto the counterweight bar. Move it high enough
to allow room for the second weight (see figure 2-7).
5.Tighten the set screw on the counterweight to hold it in position.
6.Repeat this process for the second weight.
7.Replace the safety thumbscrew on the end of the counterweight bar. The
thumbscrew will prevent the counterweights from sliding off the bar should
they ever become loose.
itit
it
itit
Figure 2-7
The G-9 1/4 • 11
Page 15
Attaching the TelescopeAttaching the Telescope
Attaching the Telescope
Attaching the TelescopeAttaching the Telescope
to the Mountto the Mount
to the Mount
to the Mountto the Mount
NOTE:NOTE:
NOTE:Never loosen any of the knobs on the telescope tube or mount. Also, be sure
NOTE:NOTE:
With the mount fully assembled, you are ready to attach the telescope to the
mount.
Before you attach the optical tube, fully tighten the right ascension andBefore you attach the optical tube, fully tighten the right ascension and
•
Before you attach the optical tube, fully tighten the right ascension and
Before you attach the optical tube, fully tighten the right ascension andBefore you attach the optical tube, fully tighten the right ascension and
declination clamps. This will prevent the telescope from movingdeclination clamps. This will prevent the telescope from moving
declination clamps. This will prevent the telescope from moving
declination clamps. This will prevent the telescope from movingdeclination clamps. This will prevent the telescope from moving
suddenly once attached to the mount.suddenly once attached to the mount.
suddenly once attached to the mount.
suddenly once attached to the mount.suddenly once attached to the mount.
1.Loosen the hand knob on the side of the CG-5 mount.
2.Slide the dovetail bar that is attached to the telescope onto the CG-5
mount (see figure 2-8).
3.Tighten the knob on the CG-5 mount to hold the telescope in place.
that the corrector end of the telescope is pointing away from the ground at all
times.
This illustration shows the correct mounting procedure for the optical tube onto the CG-5
mount. The dovetail slide bar has been attached to the telescope tube and is ready to
attach to the CG-5 mount.
12 • The G-9 1/4
Figure 2-8
Page 16
Balancing the Telescope
in R.A.
To eliminate undue stress on the mount, the telescope should be properly
balanced around the polar axis. In addition, proper balancing is crucial for
accurate tracking if using an optional motor drive. To balance the mount:
1.Release the R.A. Clamp and position the telescope off to one side of the
mount (make sure that the balance bracket thumbscrew is tight). The
counterweight bar will extend horizontally on the opposite side of the
mount (see figure 2-9).
2.Release the telescope — GRADUALLY — to see which way the telescope
“rolls.”
3.Loosen the set screw on one or both counterweights.
4.Move the counterweights to a point where they balance the telescope (i.e.,
it remains stationary when the R.A. clamp is released).
5.Tighten the set screw to hold the counterweight(s) in place.
These are general balance instructions and will reduce undue stress on the
mount. When taking astrophotographs, this balance process should be done
for the specific area at which the telescope is pointing.
R.A. CLAMP
Figure 2-9
The telescope should be balanced after all the standard accessories (i.e., star diagonal,
eyepiece, etc.) have been attached to the telescope. The correct procedure for attaching
these accessories is discussed in the section on “Telescope Basics.”
The G-9 1/4 • 13
Page 17
Balancing the Telescope
in DEC
The telescope should also be balanced on the declination axis to prevent any
sudden motions when the DEC clamp is released. To balance the telescope in
DEC:
1.Release the R.A. clamp and rotate the telescope so that it is on one side
of the mount (i.e., as described in the previous section on balancing the
telescope in R.A.).
2.Lock the R.A. clamp to hold the telescope in place.
3.Release the DEC clamp and rotate the telescope until the tube is parallel
to the ground (see figure 2-10).
4.Release the tube — GRADUALLY — to see which way it rotates around
the declination axis. DO NOT LET GO OF THE TELESCOPE TUBE
COMPLETELY!
5.Slightly loosen the balance bracket thumbscrew and slide the telescope
either forward or backward until it remains stationary when the DEC clamp
is released. Do NOT let go of the telescope tube while the balance
bracket thumbscrew is loose.
6.Tighten the thumbscrew firmly to hold the telescope in place.
Like the R.A. balance, these are general balance instructions and will reduce
undue stress on the mount. When taking astrophotographs, this balance
process should be done for the specific area at which the telescope is pointing.
As with R.A., the telescope should be balanced in DEC after all the standard accessories
(i.e., star diagonal, eyepiece, etc.) have been attached to the telescope.
14 • The G-9 1/4
Figure 2-10
Page 18
Adjusting the Mount
in Altitude
For the purpose of polar alignment, there are two directions in which the
mount can be adjusted; vertically, which is called altitude and horizontally,
which is called azimuth. There are several ways to align on the celestial pole,
many of which are discussed later in this manual. This section simply covers
the correct movement of the mount during the polar alignment process. To
adjust the mount in altitude (i.e., raise or lower the angle of the polar axis), turn
the altitude adjustment screw:
•Turning the knob clockwise increases the angle at which the polar axis is
pointing
•Turning the handle counterclockwise lowers the angle at which the polar
axis is pointing.
The latitude adjustment on the CG-5 mount has a range of 40°, starting at 20°
going up to 60°.
Adjusting the Mount
in Azimuth
For rough adjustments in azimuth, simply pick up the telescope and tripod and
move it until the R.A. axis is roughly pointed towards north. For fine adjustments in azimuth:
1.Turn the azimuth adjustment screws located on either side of the azimuth
housing. While standing behind the telescope, the knobs are on the front
of the mount.
• Turning the right adjustment knob clockwise moves the mount toward the
right.
• Turning the left adjustment knob clockwise moves the mount to the left.
Both screws push off of the peg on the tripod head, which means you may
have to loosen one screw while tightening the other. The screw that holds the
equatorial mount to the tripod may have to be loosened slightly.
Figure 2-11
The G-9 1/4 • 15
Page 19
Disassembling and
Transporting Your
G-9 1/
4
The entire telescope and mount can be picked up and carried outside for a
1
/
casual observing session. If, however, you want to transport your G-9
4
to a
remote observing location, you must partially disassemble it. Here’s how:
1.Remove the telescope from the equatorial mount. Return it to the shipping
carton to ensure safe transportation.
2.Remove the three wing bolts that hold the accessory tray to the tripod.
3.Pull the accessory tray off the bracket.
4.Thread the wing bolts back onto the accessory tray once they are removed
from the bracket. This will eliminate the possibility of losing them.
Storing Your G-9 1/4
What Next?
5.Fold the tripod legs together and you are ready to transport your G-9 1/
4"
telescope.
The equatorial mount does NOT have to be removed if you are transporting the
telescope yourself. However, you may want to remove the counterweights from
the counterweight bar to lighten the mount.
If you are shipping the telescope via a common carrier, you should completely
disassemble the telescope and return all parts to their original shipping
container.
When not in use, your Celestron G-9
1
/
can be left fully assembled and set up.
4
However, all lens and eyepiece covers should be put back in place. The
opening to the rear cell must also be covered. This will reduce the amount of
dust build-up on the optical surfaces and reduce the number of times you need
to clean the instrument. You may want to return everything to its original
shipping container and store all the parts there. If this is the case, all optical
surfaces should still be covered to prevent dust build-up.
Now that you have completed assembling your G-9 1/
, you are ready to begin
4
attaching the accessories. Please turn to the section on “Telescope Basics” for
more information.
16 • The G-9 1/4
Page 20
TELESCOPE BASICS
Once your telescope has been fully assembled, you are ready to attach the accessories and have a look. This section deals with basic telescope operations that are
common to all Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes.
Attaching the
Accessories
There are several accessories that come standard with all the Celestron SchmidtCassegrain telescopes. The installation and use of each of these is described in this
section.
The Visual Back
The visual back is the accessory that allows you to attach all visual accessories to
the telescope. The G-9 1/4 comes with the visual back installed. If it is not already on
the tube it can be attached as follows:
1 .Remove the rubber cover on the rear cell.
2 .Place the knurled slip ring on the visual back over the threads on the rear cell
(see figure 3-2).
3.Hold the visual back with the set screw in a convenient position and rotate the
knurled slip ring clockwise until tight.
Once this is done, you are ready to attach other accessories, such as eyepieces,
diagonal prisms, etc.
If you want to remove the visual back, rotate the slip ring counterclockwise until it is
free of the rear cell.
The Star Diagonal
The star diagonal uses a mirror that reflects the light at a right angle to the light path
of the telescope. This allows you to observe in positions that are physically more
comfortable than if you were to look straight through. To attach the star diagonal:
1 .Turn the set screw on the visual back until it no longer extends into (i.e., ob-
structs) its inner diameter of the visual back.
2 .Slide the chrome portion of the star diagonal into the visual back (see figure 3-2).
3.Tighten the set screw to hold the star diagonal in place.
If you wish to change the orientation of the star diagonal, loosen the set screw on the
visual back until the star diagonal rotates freely. Rotate the diagonal to the desired
position and tighten the set screw.
Telescope Basics • 17
Page 21
The Eyepiece
The eyepiece, or ocular, is an optical element that magnifies the image focused by the
telescope. The eyepiece(s) fits into either the visual back directly (see figure 3-1), the
star diagonal, or an erect image diagonal. To attach an eyepiece:
1.Loosen the set screw on the star diagonal so that it does not obstruct the inner
diameter of the eyepiece end of the diagonal.
2 .Slide the chrome portion of the eyepiece into the star diagonal (see figure 3-2).
3.Tighten the set screw to hold the eyepiece in place.
To remove the eyepiece, loosen the set screw on the star diagonal and slide the
eyepiece out. You can then replace it with another ocular.
Eyepieces are commonly referred to by focal length and barrel diameter. The focal
length of each eyepiece is printed on the eyepiece barrel. The longer the focal length
(i.e., the larger the number) the lower the eyepiece magnification (i.e., power) and the
shorter the focal length (i.e., the smaller the number) the higher the magnification.
Generally, you will use low-to-moderate power when viewing. For more information
on how to determine power, see the section on “Calculating Magnification.”
Figure 3-1
Barrel diameter is the diameter of the barrel that slides into the star diagonal or visual
back. The Celestron G-9
1
/4 telescope uses eyepieces with a 1-1/4" barrel diameter.
18 • Telescope Basics
Figure 3-2
Page 22
Image Orientation
It should be noted that the image orientation will change depending on the viewing
configuration. When using the star diagonal, the image is right-side-up, but reversed
from left-to-right. If inserting the eyepiece into the visual back (i.e., without the star
diagonal), the image is inverted (upside down and reversed from left-to-right). This
holds true for the 6x30 finder as well as the telescope. For correct orientation through
the telescope, which is important primarily for terrestrial observing, use the optional
45° erect image diagonal 1-1/4" (#94112-A).
Figure 3-3
These simplified drawings of the planet Jupiter illustrate the different image orientations obtained when using various viewing configurations.
Telescope Basics • 19
Page 23
FocusingFocusing
Focusing
FocusingFocusing
Figure 3-4
The decal on the end of the
focus knob shows the correct
rotational direction for
focusing the G-9 1/4.
Each of the Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes uses the same focusing
mechanism. The primary mirror is mounted on a ring which slides back and forth on
the primary baffle tube (see figure 3-5). The focusing knob, which moves the primary
mirror, is on the rear cell of the telescope. To focus, turn the focusing knob until the
image is sharp. If the knob will not turn, it has reached the end of its travel on the
focusing mechanism. Turn the knob in the opposite direction until the image is sharp.
Once an image is in focus, turn the knob clockwise to focus on a closer object and
counterclockwise for a more distant object (see figure 3-4). A single turn of the
focusing knob moves the primary mirror only slightly. Therefore, it will take many
turns (about 40) to go from close focus (approximately 60 feet) to infinity.
For astronomical viewing, out of focus star images are very diffuse making them
difficult, if not impossible, to see. If you turn the focus knob too quickly, you can go
right through focus without seeing the image. To avoid this problem, your first
astronomical target should be a bright object (like the Moon or a planet) so that the
image is visible even when out of focus.
Critical focusing is best accomplished when the focusing knob is turned in such a
manner that the mirror moves against the pull of gravity. In doing so, any mirror shift
is minimized. For astronomical observing, both visually and photographically, this is
done by turning the focus knob counterclockwise.
This diagram shows the focusing mechanism of the G-9 1/4 telescopes.
20 • Telescope Basics
Figure 3-5
Page 24
Aligning the Finder
1
The G-9
/4 comes with a 6x30mm finder. The finder is designed to help you find
objects that are easily overlooked in the main optics of the telescope. The first
number used to describe the finder is the power. The second number is the diameter
of the objective lens in millimeters. For example, the G-9 1/4 finder is 6x30 which means
it is 6 power and has a 30mm objective lens. Incidentally, power is always compared
to the unaided human eye. So, a 6 power finder magnifies images six times more than
the human eye.
To make things a little easier, you should align the finder during the day when it is
easier to locate objects. To align the finder:
1 .Choose a conspicuous object that is over 500 yards away. This will eliminate
any possible parallax effect.
2.Point your telescope at the target and center it in the main optics of the tele-
scope.
3 .Lock the R.A. and DEC clamps to hold the telescope in place.
4 .Check the finder to see where the object is located in the field of view.
5.Adjust the screws on the finder bracket, tightening one while loosening another,
until the cross hairs are centered on the target.
6 .Tighten each screw an additional quarter of a turn until you are sure they will not
come loose easily.
Accurate alignment of the finder will make it much easier to find objects in the main
optical tube.
Telescope Basics • 21
Page 25
Your First Look
WARNING !NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS YOU HAVE THE
With the telescope fully assembled and all the accessories attached you are ready for
your first look. Your first look should be done in the daytime when it will be easier to
locate the locking clamps and adjustment handles. This will help to familiarize you
with your telescope, thus making it easier to use at night.
Daytime Observing
As mentioned in the introduction, your Celestron G-9 1/4 telescope works well as a
terrestrial spotting scope. When not used to examine objects in the night sky, it can
be used to study objects here on Earth.
PROPER SOLAR FILTER. PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE
DAMAGE MAY RESULT AS WELL AS DAMAGE TO YOUR TELESCOPE.
ALSO, NEVER LEAVE YOUR TELESCOPE UNATTENDED DURING A
DAYTIME OBSERVING SESSION, ESPECIALLY WHEN CHILDREN ARE
PRESENT.
1 .Begin by finding a distant object that is fairly bright.
2 .Insert the eyepiece (one with a large focal length) into the telescope.
3 .Release the R.A. and DEC clamps and point the telescope at the object you
selected.
4 .Locate the object in your finder and lock the R.A. and DEC clamps.
5 .Use the slow motion knobs to center the object in the field of the finder.
6 .Once centered, look through the main optics and the object will be there (if you
aligned the finder first).
Try using optional eyepieces to see how the field changes with various magnifications. Casual terrestrial observing can be done with the telescope and German mount
placed on a flat, sturdy surface. In this configuration, the R.A. and DEC slow motion
knobs control the horizontal and vertical adjustments, respectively.
The optical tube assembly, when mounted on a photographic tripod, functions like an
altazimuth telescope. Furthermore, the G-9 1/4, when removed from the mount,
operates like the optical tube assembly.
22 • Telescope Basics
Page 26
Nighttime Observing
Looking at objects in the sky is quite different than looking at objects on Earth. For
one, many objects seen in the daytime are easy to see with the naked eye and can be
located by using landmarks. In addition, objects on the ground are stationary, at
least for the most part. In the night sky you will see a tremendous amount of stars
through the telescope that are not visible to the naked eye. One way to find objects
(at least initially) is by using other stars to guide you there. This method of finding
objects, known as star hopping, is very accurate. Yet it requires a fair amount of time
to learn the stars well enough to guide you to other objects. In addition, the stars will
appear to drift out of the field of view. This is due to the Earth’s rotation. In fact,
anything in the sky, day or night, will drift out unless the telescope has been polaraligned and the optional motor drive is running. There is more on this in the section
on “Polar Alignment.”
1.Orient the telescope so that the equatorial mount is pointing north, as close to
true north as possible. You can use a landmark that you know faces north to get
you in the general direction.
2.Adjust the mount until the latitude indicator points to the latitude of your
observing site.
3.Insert the eyepiece (low power) into the telescope to give you the widest field
possible.
4 .You are now ready to observe.
5.Release the right ascension and declination clamps and point the telescope at the
desired target. The Moon or one of the brighter planets is an ideal first target.
6 .Locate the object in the finder.
7 .Lock the R.A. and DEC clamps to hold the telescope in place.
8 .Center the object in the finder using the slow motion knobs.
9.Turn the focus knob until the image is sharp.
10. Take your time and study your subject. If looking at the Moon, look for small
details in the craters.
That’s all there is to using your Celestron telescope. However, don’t limit your view
of an object to a single eyepiece. After a few minutes, try using a different optional
eyepiece, a more powerful one. This gives you an idea of how the field of view
changes.
Telescope Basics • 23
Page 27
Calculating
Magnification
1
You can change the power of your Celestron G-9
/4 telescope just by changing the
eyepiece (ocular). To determine the magnification for your telescope, you would
simply divide the focal length of the telescope (2350mm) by the focal length of the
eyepiece that you are using. In equation format, the formula looks like this:
Focal Length of Telescope (mm)
Magnification = ————————————————
Focal Length of Eyepiece (mm)
Determining Field of
View
Let’s say, for example, that you are using a 26mm eyepiece. To determine the
magnification, simply divide the focal length of your G-9
1
/4 (2350mm) by the focal
length of the eyepiece (26mm). Dividing 2350 by 26 yields a magnification of 90
power.
Although the power is variable, each instrument has a limit to the highest useful
magnification. The general rule is that 60 power can be used for every inch of
aperture. For example, the G-9 1/4 is 9.25" in diameter. Multiplying 9.25 by 60 gives a
maximum useful magnification of 555 power. Although this is the maximum useful
magnification, due to limiting atmospheric conditions most observing is done in the
range of 20 to 35 power for every inch of aperture which is 185 to 324 power for the G9 1/
4.
Determining the field of view is important if you want to get an idea of the size of the
object you are observing. To calculate the actual field of view, divide the apparent
field of the eyepiece (supplied by the eyepiece manufacturer) by the magnification. In
equation format, the formula looks like this:
Apparent Field of Eyepiece
True Field = ———————————————
Magnification
Using the example we started with above, we can determine the field of view using the
same 26mm eyepiece. The 26mm eyepiece has an apparent field of view of 50°.
Divide the 50° by the magnification, which is 90 power. This yields an actual field of
.55°, or a little more than a half of a degree.
24 • Telescope Basics
For terrestrial viewing, field size is often referred to as feet at a thousand yards. To
convert this to feet at one thousand yards, multiply the actual field of .55° by 52.5.
This produces a field width of 29 feet at one thousand yards.
The apparent field of each eyepiece that Celestron manufacturers is found in the
Celestron Accessory Catalog (#93685).
Page 28
General Observing Hints
When working with any optical instrument, there are a few things to remember to
ensure you get the best possible image.
•Never look through window glass. Glass found in household windows is optically
imperfect and, as a result, may vary in thickness from one part of a window to the
next. This inconsistency can and will affect the ability to focus your telescope. In
most cases you will not be able to achieve a truly sharp image. In some cases,
you may actually see a double image.
•Never look across or over objects that are producing heat waves. This includes
asphalt parking lots on hot summer days or building rooftops.
•Hazy skies, fog, and mist can also make it difficult to focus when viewing terrestrially. The amount of detail seen under these conditions is greatly reduced. Also,
when photographing under these conditions, the processed film may come out a
little grainier than normal with lower contrast.
•When using your telescope as a telephoto lens, the split screen or microprism
focuser of the 35mm SLR camera may “black out.” This is common with all long
focal length lenses. If this happens, use the ground glass portion of your
focusing screen. To achieve a very sharp focus, consider using a focusing
magnifier. These are readily available from your local camera store.
•If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them
when observing with an eyepiece attached to your telescope. When using a
camera, however, you should always wear corrective lenses to ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses should be worn at
all times.
General Photography
Hints
Your Celestron telescope can be used for both terrestrial and astronomical photography. Your G-9 1/4 has a fixed aperture and, as a result, a fixed f/ratio. To properly
expose your subjects photographically, you need to set your shutter speed accordingly. Most 35mm single lens reflex (SLR) cameras offer through-the-lens metering
that lets you know if your picture is under or overexposed. This is important for
terrestrial photography where exposure times are measured in fractions of a second.
In astrophotography, the exposures are much longer, requiring that you use the “B”
setting on your camera. The actual exposure time is determined by how long you
keep the shutter open. More on this in the section on “Celestial Photography.”
To reduce vibration when tripping the shutter, use a cable release. Releasing the
shutter manually can cause vibration, something that produces blurred photos. A
cable release allows you to keep your hands clear of the camera and telescope, thus
reducing the possibility of shaking the telescope. Mechanical shutter releases can be
used, though air-type releases are best.
Telescope Basics • 25
Page 29
ASTRONOMY BASICSASTRONOMY BASICS
ASTRONOMY BASICS
ASTRONOMY BASICSASTRONOMY BASICS
This section deals with observational astronomy in general. It includes information on the night sky, polar alignment, and using your telescope for astronomical observations.
The Celestial Coordi-The Celestial Coordi-
The Celestial Coordi-
The Celestial Coordi-The Celestial Coordinate Systemnate System
nate System
nate Systemnate System
In order to help find objects in the sky, astronomers use a celestial coordinate
system which is similar to our geographical coordinate system here on Earth.
The celestial coordinate system has poles, lines of longitude and latitude, and
an equator. For the most part, these remain fixed against the background
stars.
The celestial equator runs 360 degrees around the Earth and separates the
northern celestial hemisphere from the southern. Like the Earth’s equator it
bears a reading of zero degrees. On Earth this would be latitude. However, in
the sky this is now referred to as declination, or DEC for short. Lines of
declination above and below the celestial equator are labeled for their angular
distance from the equator. The lines are broken down into degrees, minutes,
and seconds of arc. Declination readings south of the equator carry a minus
sign (-) in front of the number and those north are often preceded by a plus sign
(+).
The celestial equivalent of longitude is called Right Ascension, or R.A. for
short. Like the Earth’s lines of longitude, they run from pole to pole and are
evenly spaced 15 degrees apart. Although the longitude lines are separated by
an angular distance, they are also a measure of time. Each line of longitude is
one hour apart from the next. Since the Earth rotates once every 24 hours,
there are 24 lines total. The R.A. coordinates are marked off in units of time.
It begins with an arbitrary point in the constellation of Pisces designated as 0
hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds. All other points are designated by how far (i.e.,
how long) they lag behind this coordinate after it passes overhead moving
toward the west.
26 • Astronomy Basics
Your Celestron telescope comes equipped with setting circles that translate
the celestial coordinates into a precise location for the telescope to point. The
setting circles will not work properly until you have polar aligned the telescope
and set the R.A. setting circle. Note that the process of polar alignment sets
the declination setting circle.
90
60
DeclinationDeclination
Declination
DeclinationDeclination
30
22
23
0
1
Figure 4-1Figure 4-1
Figure 4-1
Figure 4-1Figure 4-1
3
2
6
5
4
RightRight
Right
RightRight
AscensionAscension
Ascension
AscensionAscension
Page 30
Motion of the Stars
Like the Sun, the stars also appear to move across the sky. This motion is caused
by the Earth’s rotation. For observers in the northern hemisphere, all stars appear
to move around the north celestial pole. For observers in the southern hemisphere,
all stars appear to move around the south celestial pole. This means that over a 24hour period, any given star will scribe out a complete circle around its respective
celestial pole. The farther you move away from the celestial pole, the larger this
circle becomes and is largest at the celestial equator. Stars near the celestial
equator rise in the east and set in the west. However, stars near the celestial poles
are always above the horizon. They are said to be circumpolar because they don’t
rise and set. You will never see the stars complete one circle because the sunlight
during the day washes out the starlight. However, part of this circular motion of
stars in this region of the sky can be seen by setting up a camera on a tripod and
opening the shutter for a couple of hours. The processed film will reveal circular
arcs that are centered on the pole. This information will be useful for certain
methods of polar alignment.
Figure 4-2
All stars appear to rotate around the celestial poles. However, the appearance of this
motion varies depending on where you are looking in the sky. Near the north celestial
pole the stars scribe out recognizable circles centered on the pole (1). Stars near the
celestial equator also follow circular paths around the pole. But, the complete path is
interrupted by the horizon. These appear to rise in the east and set in the west (2).
Looking toward the opposite pole, stars curve or arc in the opposite direction scribing a
circle around the opposite pole (3).
Astronomy Basics • 27
Page 31
Polar AlignmentPolar Alignment
Polar Alignment
Polar AlignmentPolar Alignment
In order for the telescope to track the stars it must meet two criteria. First,
you need a drive motor that will move at the same rate as the stars. For the G-9
1
/
there are two optional motor drives (#93518 and #93523) that can be fitted to it.
The second thing you need is to set the telescope’s axis of rotation so that it tracks
in the right direction. Since the motion of the stars across the sky is caused by the
Earth’s rotation about its axis, the telescope’s axis must be made parallel to the
Earth’s axis.
Polar alignment is the process by which the telescope’s axis of rotation is
aligned (made parallel) with the Earth’s axis of rotation. Once aligned, a
telescope with a clock drive will track the stars as they move across the sky.
The result is that objects observed through the telescope will appear stationary
(i.e., they will not drift out of the field of view). If your telescope does not use a
motor drive, all objects in the sky (day or night) will drift out of the field. This
apparent motion is caused by the Earth’s rotation. Even if you are not using a
motor drive, polar alignment is still desirable since it will reduce the number of
corrections needed to follow an object and will limit all corrections to one axis
(R.A.). There are several methods of polar alignment, all of which work on a
similar principle, but are performed somewhat differently. Each method will be
considered separately, beginning with the easier methods and working to the
more difficult, but more precise.
Although there are several methods mentioned here, you will never use all of
them during one particular observing session. Instead, you may use only one
if it is a casual observing session. Or, if you plan on astrophotography, you
may use two methods — one for rough alignment followed by a more accurate
method.
4
Definition:Definition:
Definition:The polar axis is the axis around which the telescope rotates when moving the
Definition:Definition:
telescope in right ascension. This axis remains stationary as the telescope
moves in right ascension and declination.
Figure 4-3
When the telescope’s axis of rotation is parallel to the Earth’s axis, stars viewed
through the telescope appear stationary when using a motor drive.
28 • Astronomy Basics
Page 32
Finding the PoleFinding the Pole
Finding the Pole
Finding the PoleFinding the Pole
Figure 4-4
The position of the Big
Dipper changes throughout the year and throughout the night.
For each hemisphere, there is a point in the sky around which all the other
stars appear to rotate. These points are called the celestial poles and are
named for the hemisphere in which they reside. For example, in the northern
hemisphere all stars move around the north celestial pole. When the
telescope’s polar axis is pointed at the celestial pole, it is parallel to the
Earth’s rotational axis.
Many of the methods of polar alignment require that you know how to find the
celestial pole by identifying stars in the area. For those in the northern
hemisphere, finding the celestial pole is relatively easy. Fortunately, we have a
naked eye star less than a degree away. This star, Polaris, is the end star in
the handle of the Little Dipper (see figure 4-5). Since the Little Dipper (technically
called Ursa Minor) is not one of the brightest constellations in the sky, it may be
difficult to locate, especially from urban areas. If this is the case, use the two end
stars in the bowl of the Big Dipper. Draw an imaginary line through them (about
five times the distance between these two stars) toward the Little Dipper. They
will point to Polaris. The position of the Big Dipper will change during the year
and throughout the course of the night (see figure 4-4). When the Big Dipper is
difficult to locate, try using Cassiopeia.
Observers in the southern hemisphere are not as fortunate as those in the
northern hemisphere. The stars around the south celestial pole are not nearly
as bright as those around the north. The closest star that is relatively bright is
Sigma Octantis. This star is just within naked eye limit (magnitude 5.5) and
lies 59 arc minutes from the pole. For more information about stars around the
south celestial pole, please consult a star atlas.
While it may seem that pointing at the pole star produces a parallax effect,
especially for observers near the equator, this effect is negligible since Polaris
is so far away.
Definition:Definition:
Definition:The north celestial pole is the point in the northern sky around which all stars
Definition:Definition:
appear to rotate. The counterpart in the southern hemisphere is referred to as
the south celestial pole.
Figure 4-5
The two stars in the front of the bowl of the Big Dipper point to Polaris which is less
than one degree from the true (north) celestial pole. Cassiopeia, the “W” shaped
constellation is on the opposite side of the pole from the Big Dipper. The North
Celestial Pole (N.C.P.) is marked by the “+” sign.
Astronomy Basics • 29
Page 33
Latitude ScalesLatitude Scales
Latitude Scales
Latitude ScalesLatitude Scales
The easiest way to polar align a telescope is with a latitude scale. Unlike
other methods that require you to find the celestial pole by identifying certain
stars near it, this method works off of a known constant to determine how high the
polar axis should be pointed. The latitude range varies depending upon the
telescope you own. The range for the G-9 1/
is 40°.
4
The constant, mentioned above, is a relationship between your latitude and the
angular distance the celestial pole is above the northern (or southern) horizon.
The angular distance from the northern horizon to the north celestial pole is
always equal to your latitude. To illustrate this, imagine that you are standing
on the north pole, latitude +90°. The north celestial pole, which has a declination of +90°, would be directly overhead (i.e., 90 above the horizon). Now let’s
say that you move one degree south. Your latitude is now +89° and the
celestial pole is no longer directly overhead. It has moved one degree closer
toward the northern horizon. This means the pole is now 89° above the
northern horizon. If you move one degree further south, the same thing
happens again. As you can see from this example, the distance from the
northern horizon to the celestial pole is always equal to your latitude.
If you are observing from Los Angeles, which has a latitude of 34°, then the
celestial pole would be 34° above the northern horizon. All a latitude scale
does then is to point the polar axis of the telescope at the right elevation above
the northern (or southern) horizon. To align your telescope:
1.Point your telescope due north. Use a landmark that you know faces
north.
2.Level the tripod by raising or lowering the legs as needed. There is a
bubble level built into the tripod of the CG-5 mount for this purpose.
3.Adjust the telescope mount in altitude until the latitude indicator points to
your latitude.
This method can be done in daylight, thus eliminating the need to fumble
around in the dark. Although this method does
NOTNOT
NOT put you directly on the
NOTNOT
pole, it will limit the number of corrections needed when tracking an object. It
will also be accurate enough for short exposure prime focus planetary photography (a couple of seconds) and short exposure piggyback astrophotography.
30 • Astronomy Basics
Page 34
Figure 4-6
Pointing at PolarisPointing at Polaris
Pointing at Polaris
Pointing at PolarisPointing at Polaris
This method utilizes Polaris as a guidepost to the celestial pole. Since Polaris
is less than a degree from the celestial pole, many amateurs simply point the
polar axis of their telescope at Polaris. Although this is by no means a perfect
alignment, it is close. To align using this method:
Align the finderscope with the main optical tube as described in the "Aligning
the Finder" section earlier in the manual.
1Set the telescope up so that the polar axis is pointing north and the
counterweight shaft is rotated towards the ground.
2Release the DEC clamp and move the telescope so that the optical tube is
directly over the polar axis (see figure 4-6).
3Move the mount in altitude and/or azimuth until Polaris is in the field of
view of the finder. Rough azimuth adjustments can be made by moving the
tripod .
4Center Polaris using the fine altitude and azimuth controls (see figure 4-7).
Remember, do not move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You want toRemember, do not move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You want to
Remember, do not move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You want to
Remember, do not move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You want toRemember, do not move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You want to
adjust the direction the mount is pointing and you are using theadjust the direction the mount is pointing and you are using the
adjust the direction the mount is pointing and you are using the
adjust the direction the mount is pointing and you are using theadjust the direction the mount is pointing and you are using the
telescope to see where the mount is pointing.telescope to see where the mount is pointing.
telescope to see where the mount is pointing.
telescope to see where the mount is pointing.telescope to see where the mount is pointing.
5Once Polaris is in the finder it should also be centered in the telescope. If
not, use the fine adjustment controls to center Polaris in the telescope
field.
6Rotate the Declination circle, just above the counterweight shaft, to read
90°. Do not move the Declination circle by hand after it is set.
Figure 4-7
Astronomy Basics • 31
Page 35
Declination Drift
This method of polar alignment allows you to get the most accurate alignment
on the celestial pole and is required if you want to do long exposure deep-sky
astrophotography through the telescope. The declination drift method requires
that you monitor the drift of selected guide stars. The drift of each guide star
tells you how far away the polar axis is pointing from the true celestial pole and
in what direction. Although declination drift is quite simple and straightforward,
it requires a great deal of time and patience to complete when first attempted.
The declination drift method should be done after any one of the previously
mentioned methods has been completed.
To perform the declination drift method you need to choose two bright stars.
One should be near the eastern horizon and one due south near the meridian.
Both stars should be near the celestial equator (i.e., 0° declination). You will
monitor the drift of each star one at a time and in declination only. While
monitoring a star on the meridian, any misalignment in the east-west direction
will be revealed. While monitoring a star near the east/west horizon, any
misalignment in the north-south direction will be revealed. As for hardware,
you will need an illuminated reticle ocular to help you recognize any drift. For
very close alignment, a Barlow lens is also recommended since it increases
the magnification and reveals any drift faster.
When looking due south with the scope on the side of the mount, insert the
diagonal so it points straight up. Insert a cross hair ocular and align the cross
hairs to be parallel to declination and right ascension motion.
First choose your star near where the celestial equator and the meridian meet.
The star should be approximately ±1/2 hour of the meridian and ±5 degrees of
the celestial equator. Center the star in the field of your telescope and monitor
the drift in declination.
• If the star drifts south, the polar axis is too far east.
• If the star drifts north, the polar axis is too far west.
Make the appropriate adjustments to the polar axis to eliminate any drift.
Once you have managed to eliminate all drift, move to the star near the eastern
horizon. The star should be 20 degrees above the horizon and ± 5 degrees off
of the celestial equator.
• If the star drifts south, the polar axis is too low.
• If the star drifts north, the polar axis is too high.
Once again, make the appropriate adjustments to the polar axis to eliminate
any drift. Unfortunately, the latter adjustments interact with the prior adjustments ever so slightly. So, repeat the process again to improve the accuracy
checking both axes for minimal drift. Once the drift has been eliminated, the
telescope is very accurately aligned. You will now be able to do prime focus
deep-sky astrophotography for long periods.
NOTE:NOTE:
NOTE:If the eastern horizon is blocked, you may choose a star near the western
NOTE:NOTE:
horizon. However, you will have to reverse the polar high/low error directions. If
using this method in the southern hemisphere, the procedure is the same as
described above. However, the direction of drift is reversed.
32 • Astronomy Basics
Page 36
Aligning the R.A.Aligning the R.A.
Aligning the R.A.
Aligning the R.A.Aligning the R.A.
Setting CircleSetting Circle
Setting Circle
Setting CircleSetting Circle
Polar Alignment FindersPolar Alignment Finders
Polar Alignment Finders
Polar Alignment FindersPolar Alignment Finders
There are two finders specifically designed for polar alignment that can be used
with the G-9 1/
for the G-9 1/
telescopes. These finders can be purchased as optional accessories
4
. The first finder, known as the 7x50 Polaris finder (#93785-8P), is
4
used as a regular finder.
The second finder is the polar axis finderscope (#94221). Its sole purpose is
polar alignment and can NOT be used to find objects in the telescope. Both
these finders work on the same principle, but their methods of operation are
slightly different. These methods are generally easier than those already
described and they are fairly accurate. For more information on both these
finderscopes, refer to the Optional Accessories section of this manual or ask
for the Celestron accessory catalog (#93685).
Before you can use the setting circles to find objects in the sky you need to
align the R.A. setting circle. The declination setting circle is aligned during the
polar alignment process. In order to align the R.A. setting circle you will need
to know the names of a few of the brightest stars in the sky . If you don’t, they
can be learned by using the Celestron Sky Maps (#93722) or consulting a
current astronomy magazine. To align the R.A. setting circle:
1.Locate a bright star near the celestial equator. The farther you are from
the celestial pole the better your reading on the R.A. setting circle will be.
The star you choose to align the setting circle with should be a bright one
whose coordinates are known and easy to look up. (For a list of bright
stars to align the R.A. setting circle, see the list at the back of this
manual.)
2.Center the star in the finder.
3.Look through the main telescope and see if the star is in the field. If not,
find it and center it.
4.Start the optional motor drive so that it will track the star. If you are not
using a motor drive the star will start to drift out of the field and you will
need to center it again before setting the R.A. circle.
5.Look up the coordinates of the star.
6.Rotate the circle until the proper coordinates line up with the R.A. indicator
(the zero mark on the vernier scale). The R.A. setting circle should rotate
freely.
As mentioned above, the declination setting circle is aligned during the process of polar alignment. There is no need to align it in the same manner as
the R.A. setting circle.
Once you have finished this process you are ready to use the setting circles to
locate objects in the night sky. See the section on “Using the Setting Circles”
for specific information.
Astronomy Basics • 33
Page 37
CELESTIAL OBSERVING
With your telescope set up, you are ready to use it for celestial observing. This
section covers visual observing of both solar system and deep-sky objects.
Observing the MoonObserving the Moon
Observing the Moon
Observing the MoonObserving the Moon
Observing theObserving the
Observing the
Observing theObserving the
PlanetsPlanets
Planets
PlanetsPlanets
In the night sky, the Moon is a prime target for your first look because it is extremely bright and easy to find. Often, it is a temptation to look at the Moon when
it is full. At this time, the face we see is fully illuminated and its light can be
overpowering. In addition, little or no contrast can be seen during this phase.
One of the best times to observe the Moon is during its partial phases (around the
time of first or third quarter). Long shadows reveal a great amount of detail on the
lunar surface. At low power you will be able to see most of the lunar disk at one
time. Change to higher power (magnification) to focus in on a smaller area. Keep
in mind that if you are not using an optional motor drive, the rotation of the Earth
will cause the Moon to drift out of your field of view. You will have to manually
adjust the telescope to keep the Moon centered. This effect is more noticeable at
higher power.
If you are using a motor drive and have polar aligned, the Moon will remain
centered. Consult your local newspaper or a current astronomy magazine to find
out when the Moon will be visible. Try using filters to increase contrast and bring
out more detail on the lunar surface.
Other easy targets in the night sky include the five naked eye planets. You can see
Venus go through its lunar-like phases. Mars can reveal a host of surface detail and
one, if not both, of its polar caps. You will be able to see the cloud belts of Jupiter
and the great Red Spot (if it is visible at the time you are observing). In addition,
you will also be able to see the moons of Jupiter as they orbit this gas giant. Saturn
with its beautiful ring system and Cassini's division are easily visible at moderate
power. All you need to know is where to look. Most astronomy publications tell
where the planets can be found in the sky each month.
This scanned drawing of Jupiter provides a good representation of what you can expect
to see with moderate magnification during good seeing conditions. The large, bright
cloud belts should be immediately obvious. Smaller, faint belts become visible with
practice and experience.
34 • Celestial Observing
Figure 5-1
Page 38
Observing theObserving the
Observing the
Observing theObserving the
SunSun
Sun
SunSun
Although overlooked by many amateur astronomers, solar observation is both
rewarding and fun. However, because the Sun is so bright, special precautions
must be taken when observing our star so as not to damage your eyes or your
telescope.
WARNING:WARNING:
WARNING:
WARNING:WARNING:
Never project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because ofNever project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because of
Never project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because of
Never project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because ofNever project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because of
the folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result insidethe folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result inside
the folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result inside
the folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result insidethe folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result inside
the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accesso-the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accesso-
the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accesso-
the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accesso-the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accessories attached to the telescope.ries attached to the telescope.
ries attached to the telescope.
ries attached to the telescope.ries attached to the telescope.
For safe solar viewing, use a solar filter . Solar filters reduce the intensity of the
Sun’s light, making it safe to view. With a solar filter you can see sunspots as they
move across the solar disk and faculae, which are bright patches seen near the
Sun’s edge.
Be sure to cover the objective lens of the finder or completely remove the finder when observing the Sun. This will ensure
that the finder itself is not damaged and that no one looks through it
inadvertently.
SOLAR OBSERVING HINTSSOLAR OBSERVING HINTS
SOLAR OBSERVING HINTS
SOLAR OBSERVING HINTSSOLAR OBSERVING HINTS
•The best time to observe the Sun is in the early morning or late afternoon
when the air is cooler.
•To locate the Sun without a finder, watch the shadow of the telescope tube
Deep-sky objects are simply those objects outside the boundaries of our solar
system. They include star clusters, planetary nebulae, diffuse nebulae, double
stars, and other galaxies outside our own Milky Way. The Celestron Sky Maps
(#93722) can help you locate the brightest deep-sky objects.
Most deep-sky objects have a large angular size. Therefore, low-to-moderate
power is all you need to see them. Visually, they are too faint to reveal any color
seen in long exposure photographs. Instead, they have a black and white appearance. And, because of their low surface brightness, they should be observed from a
dark sky location. Light pollution around large urban areas washes out most
nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible, to observe. Light Pollution
Reduction filters help reduce the background sky brightness, thus increasing
contrast.
Using the Setting CirclesUsing the Setting Circles
Using the Setting Circles
Using the Setting CirclesUsing the Setting Circles
Once the setting circles are aligned you can use them to find any object with known
coordinates.
1.Select an object to observe. Use a seasonal star chart or planisphere to make
sure the object you chose is above the horizon. As you become more familiar
with the night sky, this will no longer be necessary.
2.Look up the coordinates in an atlas or reference book.
3.Move the telescope in declination until the indicator is pointing at the correct
declination coordinate.
4.Move the telescope in R.A. until the indicator points to the correct coordinate
(do NOT move the R.A. circle). The telescope will track in R.A. as long as a
motor drive is operating and the R.A. clamp is in the locked position.
5.Look through the finder to see if you have located the object.
6.Center the object in the finder.
7.Look in the main optics using a low power eyepiece; the object should be
there. The telescope will track in R.A. as long as the motor drive is operating.
8.Repeat the process for each object observed throughout the observing session.
You may not be able to see fainter objects in the finder. When this happens,
gradually sweep the telescope around until the object is visible.
The declination setting circle is scaled in degrees while the R.A. setting circle is
incremented in minutes with a marker every fifth minute. As a result, the setting
circles will get you close to your target, but not directly on it. Also, the accuracy of
your polar alignment will also affect how accurately your setting circles read.
At the end of this manual there is a list of deep-sky objects well within reach of
your Celestron telescope.
36 • Celestial Observing
Page 40
Star HoppingStar Hopping
Star Hopping
Star HoppingStar Hopping
You can use your setting circles to find these objects (as described earlier in this
manual) or try star hopping. Star hopping is done by using bright stars to guide you
to an object. Here are directions for two popular objects.
The Andromeda Galaxy, M31, is an easy first target. To find M31:
1.Locate the constellation of Pegasus, a large square visible in the fall and winter
months.
2.Start at the star in the northeast corner. The star is Alpha (α) Andromedae.
3.Move northeast approximately 7°. There you will find two stars of equal
brightness — Delta (δ) and Pi (π) Andromedae — about 3° apart.
4.Continue in the same direction another 8°. There you will find two stars —
Beta (β) and Mu (µ) Andromedae — about 3° apart.
5.Move 3° northwest — the same distance between the two stars— to the
Andromeda galaxy. It is easily visible in the finder.
Figure 5-2Figure 5-2
Figure 5-2
Figure 5-2Figure 5-2
Star hopping to the Andromeda Galaxy is a snap to find since all the stars needed to do
so are visible to the naked eye. Note that the scale for this star chart is different from
the one on the following page which shows the constellation Lyra.
Celestial Observing • 37
Page 41
Star hopping may take some getting used to since you can see more stars through
the finder than you can see with the naked eye. And, some objects are not visible
in the finder. One such object is M57, the famed Ring Nebula. Here’s how to find
it:
1.Find the constellation of Lyra, a small parallelogram visible in the summer
and fall months. Lyra is easy to pick out because it contains the bright star
Vega.
2.Start at the star Vega — Alpha (α) Lyrae — and move a few degrees southeast
to find the parallelogram. The four stars that make up this geometric shape are
all similar in brightness, making them easy to see.
3.Locate the two southern most stars that make up the parallelogram — Beta (β)
and Gamma (γ) Lyrae (see figure 5-3).
4.Point the finder half way between these two stars.
5.Move about 1/2° toward Beta (β) Lyrae, but remaining on a line that connects
the two stars.
6.Look through the telescope and the Ring Nebula should be in the telescope.
Its angular size is quite small and, therefore, not visible in the finder.
These two examples should give you an idea of how to star hop to deep sky objects.
To use this method on other objects, consult any of the star atlases listed at the end
of this book.
Figure 5-3
Although the Ring Nebula lies
between two naked eye stars, it
may take a little time to locate
since it is not visible in the
finder. Note that the scale for
this star chart is different from
the one on the previous page
which shows several constellations including Pegasus,
Triangulum, and Andromeda.
38 • Celestial Observing
Page 42
Viewing ConditionsViewing Conditions
Viewing Conditions
Viewing ConditionsViewing Conditions
Viewing conditions affect what you can see through your G-9 1/4 telescope during
an observing session. Conditions include transparency, sky illumination, and
seeing. Understanding viewing conditions and the affect they have on observing
will help you get the most out of your telescope.
TransparencyTransparency
Transparency
TransparencyTransparency
Transparency is the clarity of the atmosphere and is affected by clouds, moisture,
and other airborne particles. Thick cumulus clouds are completely opaque while
cirrus can be thin, allowing the light from the brightest stars through. Hazy skies
absorb more light than clear skies making fainter objects harder to see and reducing
contrast on brighter objects. Aerosols ejected into the upper atmosphere from
volcanic eruptions also affect transparency. Ideal conditions are when the night
sky is inky black.
Sky IlluminationSky Illumination
Sky Illumination
Sky IlluminationSky Illumination
General sky brightening caused by the Moon, aurorae, natural airglow, and light
pollution greatly affect transparency. While not a problem for the Moon, planets,
and brighter stars, bright skies reduce the contrast of extended nebulae making
them difficult, if not impossible, to see. To maximize your observing, limit deepsky viewing to moonless nights far from the light polluted skies found around
major urban areas. LPR filters enhance deep-sky viewing from light polluted areas
by blocking unwanted light while transmitting light from certain deep-sky objects.
You can, on the other hand, observe planets and stars from light polluted areas or
when the Moon is out.
SeeingSeeing
Seeing
SeeingSeeing
Seeing conditions refer to the stability of the atmosphere and directly effects the
clarity of star images and the amount of fine detail seen in extended objects like the
planets. The air in our atmosphere acts as a lens which bends and distorts incoming light rays. The amount of bending depends on air density. Varying temperature layers have different densities and therefore bend light differently. Light rays
from the same object arrive slightly displaced creating an imperfect or smeared
image. These atmospheric disturbances vary from time-to-time and place-to-place.
The size of the air parcels compared to your aperture determines the “seeing”
quality. Under good seeing conditions, fine detail is visible on the brighter planets
like Jupiter and Mars, and stars are pinpoint images. Under poor seeing conditions, images are blurred and stars appear as blobs. Seeing conditions are rated on
a five-point scale where one is the worst and five is the best (see figure 5-4). Seeing
conditions can be classified in one of three categories which are based on the cause.
Type 1 seeing conditions are characterized by rapid changes in the image seen
through the telescope. Extended objects, like the Moon, appear to shimmer while
point sources (i.e., stars) appear double. Type 1 seeing is caused by currents
within or very close to the telescope tube. These currents could be caused by a
telescope that has not reached thermal equilibrium with the outdoor surroundings,
heat waves from people standing near the telescope, or heated dew caps. To avoid
the problems associated with Type 1 seeing, allow your telescope approximately
20 to 30 minutes to reach thermal equilibrium. Once adjusted to the outdoor
temperature, don’t touch the telescope tube with your hands. When pointing the
Celestial Observing • 39
Page 43
telescope, hold the telescope by the star diagonal. If observing with others, make
sure no one stands in front of or directly below the telescope tube.
The images produced by Type 2 seeing conditions don’t move as quickly as those
produced by Type 1 conditions, but the images are quite blurry. Fine detail is lost
and the contrast is low for extended objects. Stars are spread out and not sharp.
The source of Type 2 seeing is the lower atmosphere, most likely heat waves from
the ground or buildings. To avoid the problems associated with Type 2 seeing,
select a good observing site. Specifically, avoid sites that overlook asphalt parking
lots or ploughed fields. Stay away from valleys and shorelines. Instead, look for
broad hilltops or open grassy fields. Stable thermal conditions found near lakes
and atmospheric inversions also tend to produce good seeing. If you can’t get a
better location, wait until the early morning hours when the surroundings are
uniformly cool and the seeing is generally better.
Type 3 seeing conditions are characterized by fast ripples, but sharp images. In
extended objects fine detail is visible, but the images shift around the field. Stars
are crisp points, but they shift small distances rapidly around the field. The cause
of Type 3 seeing is turbulence in the upper atmosphere which means the observer
has less control over it. However, the effects of Type 3 seeing are generally less
pronounced than the other two types. You can never really avoid Type 3 seeing.
Your best bet is to wait until moments of steadiness. If the seeing is extremely bad,
pack up and wait for a better night.
The conditions described here apply to both visual and photographic observations.
40 • Celestial Observing
Figure 5-4
Seeing conditions directly affect image quality. These drawings represent a point
source (i.e., star) under bad seeing conditions (left) to excellent conditions (right).
Most often, seeing conditions produce images that lie somewhere between these two
extremes.
Page 44
CELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHYCELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHY
CELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHY
CELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHYCELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHY
After looking at the night sky for awhile you may want to try photographing it.
Several forms of celestial photography are possible with your Celestron G-9 1/
telescope. The most common forms of celestial photography, in order of
difficulty are: short exposure prime focus, piggyback, eyepiece projection, and
long exposure deep sky. Each of these is discussed in moderate detail with
enough information to get you started. Topics include the accessories required
and some simple techniques. More information is available in some of the
publications listed at the end of this manual.
In addition to the specific accessories required for each type of celestial
photography, there is the need for a camera — but not just any camera. The
camera does not have to have many of the features offered on today’s state-ofthe-art equipment. For example, you don’t need auto focus capability or mirror
lock up. Here are the mandatory features a camera needs for celestial photography. First, a ‘B’ setting which allows for time exposures. This excludes
point and shoot cameras and limits the selection to 35mm SLR cameras.
Second, the ‘B’ or manual setting should not run off the battery. Many new
electronic cameras use the battery to keep the shutter open during time
exposures. Once the batteries are drained, usually after a few minutes, the
shutter closes, whether you have finished with the exposure or not. Look for a
camera that has a manual shutter when operating in the time exposure mode.
Olympus, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax, Canon and others have made such camera
bodies.
4
The camera should have interchangeable lenses so you can attach it to the
telescope and use a variety of lenses for piggyback photography. If you can’t
find a new camera, you can purchase a used camera body that is not 100percent functional. The light meter does not have to be operational since you
will be determining the exposure length manually.
Use a cable release with a locking function to hold the shutter open while you
do other things. Mechanical and air releases are available at most camera
stores.
Celestial Photography • 41
Page 45
Short Exposure PrimeShort Exposure Prime
Short Exposure Prime
Short Exposure PrimeShort Exposure Prime
FocusFocus
Focus
FocusFocus
Short exposure prime focus photography is the best way to begin recording
celestial objects. It is done with the camera attached to the telescope without an
eyepiece or camera lens in place. To attach your camera you need the Celestron TAdapter (#93633-A) and a T-Ring for your specific camera (i.e., Minolta, Nikon,
Pentax, etc.). The T-Ring replaces the 35mm SLR camera’s normal lens. Prime
focus photography allows you to capture the majority of the lunar disk or solar
11
1
11
//
disk. To attach your camera to your G-9
::
/
:
//
::
44
4
44
1.Remove all visual accessories and visual back.
2.Thread the T-Ring onto the T-Adapter.
3.Mount your camera body onto the T-Ring the same as you would any
other lens.
4.Thread the T-Adapter onto the back of the Celestron G-9
1
/4 while
holding the camera in the desired orientation (either vertical or horizon
tal).
With your camera attached to the telescope, you are ready for prime focus photography. Start with an easy object like the Moon. Here’s how to do it:
1.Load your camera with film that has a moderate-to-fast speed (i.e., ISO
rating). Faster films are more desirable when the Moon is a crescent. When
the Moon is near full, and at its brightest, slower films are more desirable.
Here are some film recommendations:
• T-Max 100
• T-Max 400
• Any 100 to 400 ISO color slide film
• Fuji Super HG 400
2.Center the Moon in the field of your telescope.
3.Focus the telescope by turning the focus knob until the image is sharp.
4.Set the shutter speed to the appropriate setting (see table 6-1).
5.Trip the shutter using a cable release.
6.Advance the film and repeat the process.
Above is a listing of recommended exposure times when photographing the Moon at the
prime focus of your Celestron G-9 1/4.
42 • Celestial Photography
Lunar PhaseLunar Phase
Lunar Phase
Lunar PhaseLunar Phase
CrescentCrescent
Crescent1/21/41/81/15
CrescentCrescent
QuarterQuarter
Quarter1/151/301/601/125
QuarterQuarter
FullFull
Full1/301/601/1251/250
FullFull
ISO 50ISO 50
ISO 50
ISO 50ISO 50
ISO 100ISO 100
ISO 100
ISO 100ISO 100
Table 6-1
ISO 200ISO 200
ISO 200
ISO 200ISO 200
ISO 400ISO 400
ISO 400
ISO 400ISO 400
Page 46
The exposure times listed here should be used as a starting point. Always make
exposures that are longer and shorter than the recommended time. Also, try
bracketing your exposures, taking a few photos at each shutter speed. This will
ensure that you will get a good photo. If using black and white film, try a yellow
filter to reduce the light intensity and to increase contrast.
Keep accurate records of your exposures. This information is useful if you
want to repeat your results or if you want to submit some of your photos to
various astronomy magazines for possible publication!
This technique is also used for photographing the Sun with the proper solar filter.
Celestial Photography • 43
Page 47
PiggybackPiggyback
Piggyback
PiggybackPiggyback
The easiest way to enter the realm of deep-sky, long exposure astrophotography is
via the piggyback method. Piggyback photography is done with a camera and its
normal lens riding on top of the telescope. Through piggyback photography you
can capture entire constellations and record large scale nebulae that are too big for
prime focus photography. Because you are photographing with a low power lens
and guiding with a high power telescope, the margin for error is very large. Small
mistakes made while guiding the telescope will not show up on film. To attach the
camera to the telescope, use the optional piggyback mount (#93598). In order to
guide the exposure, you will need an optional motor drive (#93518 or #93523).
As with any form of deep-sky photography, it should be done from a dark sky
observing site. Light pollution around major urban areas washes out the faint
light of deep-sky objects. You can still practice from less ideal skies.
1.Polar align the telescope (using one of the methods described earlier) and
start the motor drive.
2.Load your camera with slide film, ISO 100 or faster, or print film, ISO 400 or
faster!
3.Set the f/ratio of your camera lens so that it is a half stop to one full stop
down from completely open.
4.Set the shutter speed to the “B” setting and focus the lens to the infinity
setting.
5.Locate the area of the sky that you want to photograph and move the
telescope so that it points in that direction.
6.Find a suitable guide star in the telescope eyepiece field of view. This is
relatively easy since you can search a wide area without affecting the area
covered by your camera lens. If you do not have an illuminated cross hair
eyepiece for guiding, simply defocus your guide star until it fills most of the
field of view. This makes it easy to detect any drift.
7.Release the shutter using a cable release.
8.Monitor your guide star for the duration of the exposure making the
neccessary corrections needed to keep the star centered.
9.Close the camera’s shutter.
As for lenses, use good ones that produce sharp images near the edge of the
field. The lenses should have a resolving power of at least 40 lines per millimeter. A good focal length range is 50 to 500mm for lenses designed for 35mm
cameras.
44 • Celestial Photography
Page 48
The exposure time depends on the film being used. However, five minutes is
usually a good starting point. With slower films, like 100 ISO, you can expose as
long as 45 minutes. With faster films, like 1600 ISO, you really shouldn’t expose
more than 5 to 10 minutes. When getting started, use fast films to record as much
detail in the shortest possible time. Here are proven recommendations:
• Ektar 1000 (color print)
• Konica 3200 (color print)
• Fujichrome 1600D (color slide)
• 3M 1000 (color slide)
• T-Max 3200 (black and white print)
• T-Max 400 (black and white print)
As you perfect your technique, try specialized films, that is films that are
designed or specially treated for celestial photography. Here are some popular
choices:
• Ektar 125 (color print)
• Fujichrome 100D (color slide)
• Tech Pan, gas hypered (black and white print)
As with all forms of photography, keep accurate records of your work. This
information can be used later if you want to reproduce certain results or if you
want to submit photos for possible publication.
Once you have mastered piggyback photography with wide angle and normal
lenses, try longer focal length lenses. The longer the focal length, the more
accurate your guiding must be. You can continue to increase the focal length
of the lens until you are ready for prime focus photography with your Celestron G-
1
9
/4.
Celestial Photography • 45
Page 49
Eyepiece ProjectionEyepiece Projection
Eyepiece Projection
Eyepiece ProjectionEyepiece Projection
This form of celestial photography is designed for objects with small angular sizes,
primarily the planets and individual lunar features. Planets, although physically
quite large, appear small in angular size because of their great distances. Moderate
to high magnification is, therefore, required to make the image large enough to see
any detail. Unfortunately, the camera/telescope combination alone does not
provide enough magnification to produce a usable image size on film. In order to
get the image large enough, you must attach your camera to the telescope with the
eyepiece in place. To do so, you need two additional accessories; a tele-extender
(#93643), which attaches onto the visual back, and a T-ring for your particular
camera make (i.e., Minolta, Nikon, Pentax, etc.).
Because of the high magnifications during eyepiece projection, the field of view
is quite small which makes it difficult to find and center objects. To make the
job a little easier, align the finder as accurately as possible. This allows you to
get the object in the field based on the finder’s view alone.
Another problem introduced by the high magnification is vibration. Simply
tripping the shutter — even with a cable release — produces enough vibration
to smear the image. To get around this, use the camera’s self-timer if the
exposure time is less than one second — a common occurrence when
photographing the Moon. For exposures over one second, use the “hat trick.”
This technique incorporates a hand-held black card placed over the aperture of
the telescope to act as a shutter. The card prevents light from entering the
telescope while the shutter is released. Once the shutter has been released
and the vibration has diminished (a few seconds), move the black card out of
the way to expose the film. After the exposure is complete, place the card
over the front of the telescope and close the shutter. Advance the film and
you’re ready for your next shot. Keep in mind that the card should be held a
few inches in front of the telescope, and not touching it. It is easier if you use
two people for this process; one to release the camera shutter and one to hold
the card. Here’s the process for making the exposure.
1.Find and center the desired target in the view finder of your camera.
2.Turn the focus knob until the image is as sharp as possible.
3.Place the black card over the front of the telescope.
4.Release the shutter using a cable release.
5.Wait for the vibration caused by releasing the shutter to diminish. Also,
wait for a moment of good seeing.
6.Remove the black card from in front of the telescope for the duration of the
exposure (see table 6-2).
7.Replace the black card over the front of the telescope.
8.Close the camera’s shutter.
Advance the film and you are ready for your next exposure. Don’t forget to
take photos of varying duration and keep accurate records of what you have
done. Record the date, telescope, exposure duration, eyepiece, f/ratio, film,
and some comments on the seeing conditions.
46 • Celestial Photography
Page 50
The following table lists exposures for eyepiece projection with a 10mm eyepiece.
All exposure times are listed in seconds or fractions of a second.
PlanetPlanet
Planet
PlanetPlanet
MoonMoon
Moon4211/2
MoonMoon
MercuryMercury
Mercury16842
MercuryMercury
VenusVenus
Venus1/21/41/81/15
VenusVenus
MarsMars
Mars16842
MarsMars
JupiterJupiter
Jupiter8421
JupiterJupiter
SaturnSaturn
Saturn16442
SaturnSaturn
ISO 50ISO 50
ISO 50
ISO 50ISO 50
ISO 100ISO 100
ISO 100
ISO 100ISO 100
Table 6-2
ISO 200ISO 200
ISO 200
ISO 200ISO 200
ISO 400ISO 400
ISO 400
ISO 400ISO 400
The exposure times listed here should be used as a starting point. Always
make exposures that are longer and shorter than the recommended time.
Also, try bracketing your exposures, taking a few photos at each shutter
speed. This will ensure that you will get a good photo. It is not uncommon to
go through an entire roll of 36 exposures and have only one shot turn out.
Also, don’t expect to record more detail than you can see visually in the
eyepiece at the time you are photographing.
Once you have mastered the technique, experiment with different films,
different focal length eyepieces, and even different filters.
Celestial Photography • 47
Page 51
Long ExposureLong Exposure
Long Exposure
Long ExposureLong Exposure
Prime FocusPrime Focus
Prime Focus
Prime FocusPrime Focus
This is the last form of celestial photography to be attempted after others have been
mastered. It is intended primarily for deep-sky objects, that is objects outside our
solar system which includes star clusters, nebulae, and galaxies. While it may
seem that high magnification is required for these objects, just the opposite is true.
Most of these objects cover large angular areas and fit nicely into the prime focus
field of your Celestron G-9 1/4 telescope. The brightness of these objects, however, requires long exposure times and, as a result, are rather difficult.
There are several techniques for this type of photography, and the one chosen
will determine the standard accessories needed. If, for example, you use a
separate guidescope, the camera attaches to the telescope with a T-Adapter
(#93633-A) and a T-Ring for your specific camera. However, the best method
for long exposure deep-sky astrophotography is with an off-axis guider. This
devise allows you to photograph and guide through the telescope simultaneously. Celestron offers a very special and advanced off-axis guider, called
the Radial Guider (#94176). In addition, you will need a T-Ring to attach your
camera to the Radial Guider.
Other equipment needs include a guiding eyepiece. Unlike piggyback photography which allows for fairly loose guiding, prime focus requires meticulous
guiding for long periods. To accomplish this you need a guiding ocular with an
illuminated reticle to monitor your guide star. For this purpose, Celestron
offers the Micro Guide Eyepiece (#94171). Here is a brief summary of the
technique.
1.Polar align the telescope using the declination drift method.
2.Remove all visual accessories.
3.Thread the Radial Guider onto your Celestron G-9 1/4.
4.Thread the T-Ring onto the Radial Guider.
5.Mount your camera body onto the T-Ring the same as you would any other
lens.
6.Set the shutter speed to the “B” setting.
7.Focus the telescope on a star while looking through the camera viewfinder
or by using alternative focusing aids
8.Center your subject in the field of your camera.
9.Find a suitable guide star in the telescope field. This can be the most time
consuming process.
10. Open the shutter using a cable release.
11. Monitor your guide star for the duration of the exposure using the buttons on
the hand controller to make the needed corrections.
12. Close the camera’s shutter.
48 • Celestial Photography
Page 52
When getting started, use fast films to record as much detail in the shortest possible
time. Here are proven recommendations:
• Ektar 1000 (color print)
• Konica 3200 (color print)
• Fujichrome 1600D (color slide)
• 3M 1000 (color slide)
• T-Max 3200 (black and white print)
• T-Max 400 (black and white print)
As you perfect your technique, try specialized films, that is films that are
designed or specially treated for celestial photography. Here are some popular
choices:
• Ektar 125 (color print)
• Fujichrome 100D (color slide)
• Tech Pan, gas hypered (black and white print)
There is no exposure determination table to help you get started. The best
way to determine exposure length is look at previously published photos to see
what film/exposure combinations were used. Or take unguided sample photos
of various parts of the sky while the drive is running. Always take exposures of
various lengths to determine the best exposure time.
Celestial Photography • 49
Page 53
TELESCOPE MAINTENTELESCOPE MAINTEN
TELESCOPE MAINTEN
TELESCOPE MAINTENTELESCOPE MAINTEN
ANCEANCE
ANCE
ANCEANCE
Care and CleaningCare and Cleaning
Care and Cleaning
Care and CleaningCare and Cleaning
of the Opticsof the Optics
of the Optics
of the Opticsof the Optics
While the G-9 1/
remember that will ensure your telescope performs at its best.
Occasionally, dust and/or moisture may build up on the corrector plate of your
telescope. Special care should be taken when cleaning any instrument so as
not to damage the optics.
If dust has built up on the corrector plate, remove it with a brush (made of
camel’s hair) or a can of pressurized air. Spray at an angle to the lens for
approximately two to four seconds. Then, use an optical cleaning solution and
white tissue paper to remove any remaining debris. Apply the solution to the
tissue and then apply the tissue paper to the lens. Low pressure strokes
should go from the center of the corrector to the outer portion. Do NOT rub in
circles!
You can use a commercially made lens cleaner or mix your own. A good
cleaning solution is isopropyl alcohol mixed with distilled water. The solution
should be 60% isopropyl alcohol and 40% distilled water. Or, liquid dish soap
diluted with water (a couple of drops per one quart of water) can be used.
Occasionally, you may experience dew build-up on the corrector plate of your G-9
1
/4 during an observing session. If you want to continue observing, the dew must
be removed by pointing the telescope at the ground until the dew has evaporated.
telescope requires little maintenance, there are a few things to
4
CollimationCollimation
Collimation
CollimationCollimation
If moisture condenses on the inside of the corrector, place the telescope in a
dust-free environment and point it down. Remove the accessories from the rear
cell of the telescope or spotting scope to allow the moisture to evaporate from
the optical tube.
To minimize the need to clean your telescope, replace all lens covers once you
have finished using it. Since the rear cell is
placed over the opening when not in use. This will prevent contaminants from
entering the optical tube.
Internal adjustments and cleaning should be done only by the Celestron repair
department. If your G-9 1/4 is in need of internal cleaning, please call the factory
for a return authorization number and price quote.
The optical performance of your Celestron telescope is directly related to its
collimation, that is the alignment of its optical system. Your G-9 1/4 was collimated at the factory after it was completely assembled. However, if the
telescope is dropped or jarred severely during transport, it may have to be
recollimated. The only optical element that can be adjusted by you is the tilt of
the secondary mirror.
NOTNOT
NOT sealed, the cover should be
NOTNOT
50 • Telescope Maintenance
Page 54
Figure 7-1
Left: With an out-of-focus star
image at the center of the field,
the secondary mirror shadow is
off center indicating the
telescope is out of collimation
Right: The out-of-focus star
image showing good collimation.
To check the collimation of your telescope you will need a light source. A bright
star near the zenith is ideal since there is a minimal amount of atmospheric
distortion. Turn your telescope motor drive on so that you don’t have to manually
track the star. Or, if you are not using the motor drive, use Polaris. Its position
relative to the celestial pole means that it moves very little thus eliminating the
need to track it.
Before you begin the collimation process, be sure that your telescope is in
thermal equilibrium with the surroundings. Allow 45 minutes for the telescope
to reach equilibrium if you move it between large temperature extremes.
To verify collimation, view a star near the zenith. Use a medium to high power
ocular — 12mm to 6mm focal length. It is important to center a star in the
center of the field to judge collimation. Slowly cross in and out of focus and
judge the symmetry of the star. If you see a systematic skewing of the star to
one side, then recollimation is needed.
To accomplish this, you need to adjust the secondary collimation screw(s) that
move the star across the field toward the direction of the skewed light (see
figure 7-1). Make only small corrections, approximately 1/6 to 1/8 of the field.
Recenter the star by moving the telescope before making further adjustments.
When using higher power, 6mm and above, collimation is best accomplished
with the telescope in focus. In this instance, you are observing the Airy disk
(see figure 7-2), not the shadow of the secondary housing. This (stellar) image
appears as a bright point of light with a diffraction ring around it. When the
point of light is perfectly centered within the diffraction ring, your telescope is in
collimation. Keep in mind that to use high power, the seeing conditions must
be very good.
Figure 7-2
In focus images show the
G-9 1/4 in collimation (left)
and out of collimation
(right).
NOTE:NOTE:
NOTE:
NOTE:NOTE:
Perfect collimation yields a star or planetary image very symmetrical just
inside and outside of focus. Also, perfect collimation delivers the optimal
optical performance specifications that your telescope is built to achieve.
If seeing (i.e., air steadiness) is turbulent, collimation is difficult to judge. Wait
until a better night if it is turbulent or aim to a steadier part of the sky. A
steadier part of the sky is judged by steady versus twinkling stars.
THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRRORTHE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRROR
THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRROR
THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRRORTHE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRROR
ARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURNARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURN
ARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURN
ARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURNARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURN
WILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THEWILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THE
WILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THE
WILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THEWILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THE
TELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEYTELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEY
TELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEY
TELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEYTELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEY
WILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THEWILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THE
WILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THE
WILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THEWILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THE
DIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLYDIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLY
DIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLY
DIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLYDIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLY
LOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTSLOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTS
LOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTS
LOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTSLOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTS
TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE IN-TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE IN-
TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE IN-
TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE IN-TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED BY TOUCHING UP COLLIMATION ASTIMIDATED BY TOUCHING UP COLLIMATION AS
TIMIDATED BY TOUCHING UP COLLIMATION AS
TIMIDATED BY TOUCHING UP COLLIMATION ASTIMIDATED BY TOUCHING UP COLLIMATION AS
NEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTIONNEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTION
NEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTION
NEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTIONNEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTION
VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!
VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!
VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!
Telescope Maintenance • 51
Page 55
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Below is pertinent technical information on your Celestron G-91/4 telescope that you
may find useful.
GENERAL:
OPTICAL TUBE:G-91/
4
Optical System:Schmidt-Cassegrain
Aperture:9.25" (235mm)
Focal Length:2350mm (92.5")
F/ratio:f/10
Secondary Mirror Diameter
Obstruction3.35” or 13.1% by Area
Aluminized Surface2.75”
Highest Useful Power Magnification:555x
Lowest Useful Power Magnification:34x
Resolution (arc seconds):0.58
Photographic Resolution:182 lines/mm
Exit Pupil with standard eyepiece:2.6mm
Light Gathering Power:1127x unaided eye
Limiting Visual Magnitude:14.4
Near Focus
with eyepiece:~60ft
with camera:~60ft
Front Cell O.D.10.5”
Optical Tube Length:215/8"
Weight of Optical Tube20 lbs.
52 • Telescope Maintenance
Page 56
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
The following is a partial list of optional accessories available for your Celestron
G-9 1/4.
Barlow Lens - A Barlow lens is a negative lens that increases the focal length
of a telescope. Used with any eyepiece, it doubles the magnification of that
eyepiece. Celestron offers two Barlow lens in the 1-1/4" size for the G-9 1/4.
The 2x Ultima Barlow (#93506) is a compact triplet design that is fully multicoated for maximum light transmission and parfocal when used with the Ultima
eyepieces. Model #93507 is a compact achromatic Barlow lens that is under
three inches long and weighs only 4 oz. It works very well with all Celestron
eyepieces.
CD-ROM (93700) - Celestron and Software Bisque have joined together to
present this comprehensive CD-ROM called
It features a 10,000 object database, 75 color images, horizontal projection,
custom sky chart printing, zoom capability, Comet Hale-Bopp coordinates and
more! A fun, useful and educational product. PC format.
Dual Axis Drive System - #93523
This drive motor, with drive corrector capabilities, is designed for Celestron’s
CG-5 Equatorial telescope mount. It precisely controls the telescope’s
tracking speed during long, timed exposures of celestial objects, producing the
best possible image sharpness. Drive correctors are a must for those with
serious interest in astrophotography or CCD imaging.This precision, state-ofthe-art DC motor drive operates on D-Cell batteries. The hand controller
module is very compact and fits easily in the palm of your hand. Motors for
both axes are included, along with brackets, clutches and hardware.
The Sky™ Level 1 - for Celestron.
Eyepieces - Like telescopes, eyepieces come in a variety of designs. Each
design has its own advantages and disadvantages. For the 1-1/4" barrel
diameter there are four different eyepiece designs available.
• Super Modified Achromatic (SMA) Eyepieces:
The SMA design is an improved version of the Kellner eyepiece. SMAs
are very good, economical, general purpose eyepieces that deliver a
wide apparent field, good color correction and an excellent image at the
center of the field of view. Celestron offers SMA eyepieces in the following
focal lengths: 6mm, 10mm, 12mm,17mm and 25mm.
• Plössl - Plössl eyepieces have a 4-element lens designed for low-to-high
power observing. The Plössls offer razor sharp views across the entire
field, even at the edges! In the 1-1/4" barrel diameter, they are available in
the following focal lengths: 6.3mm, 7.5mm, 10mm, 12.5mm, 17mm,
20mm, 26mm, 32mm and 40mm.
• Ultima - Ultima is not really a design, but a trade name for our 5-element,
wide field eyepieces. They are available in the following focal lengths:
5mm, 7.5mm, 12.5mm, 18mm, 24mm, 30mm, 35mm, and 42mm. These
eyepieces are all parfocal.
Optional Accessories • 53
Page 57
• Lanthanum Eyepieces (LV Series) - Lanthanum is a unique rare earth
glass used in one of the field lenses of this new eyepiece. The Lanthanum glass reduces aberrations to a minimum. All are fully multicoated
and have an astounding 20mm of eye relief — perfect for eyeglass
wearers! They are available in the following focal lengths: 2.5mm, 4mm,
5mm, 6mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, 20mm and 25mm. Celestron
also offers the LV Zoom eyepiece (#3777) with a focal length of 8mm to
24mm. It offers an apparent field of 40o at 24mm and 60o at 8mm. Eye
relief ranges from 15mm to 19mm.
Eyepiece Filters - To enhance your visual observations of solar system
objects, Celestron offers a wide range of colored filters that thread into the 1-1/
4" oculars. Available individually are: #12 deep yellow, #21 orange, #25 red,
#58 green, #80A light blue, #96 neutral density - 25%T, #96 neutral density 13%T, and polarizing. These and other filters are also sold in sets.
Finderscopes - Finderscopes are used to help you locate objects in the main
telescope. The larger the finder, the more you will see, making it easier to
locate objects. One option for finders is the Polaris 7x50 Finder (#93785-8P).
It comes with the finderscope, bracket and Polaris Setting Plate.
Another tool for finding objects in the sky is the Star Pointer (#51630). The
Star Pointer is different from a finderscope in that you can use both eyes when
pointing the telescope at an object. A partially reflective surface projects the
image of an LED illuminated pinpoint into the line of sight. Just align the
illuminated pinpoint with the object you are interested in and the object will be
in the main telescope.
Night Vision Flashlight - (#93588) - Celestron’s premium model for as-
tronomy, using two red LEDs to preserve night vision better than red filters or
other devices. Brightness is adjustable. Operates on a single 9 volt battery
(included).
Light Pollution Reduction (LPR) Filters (#94126A)- This 1
1
/
" filter is
4
designed to enhance your views of deep sky astronomical objects when viewed
from urban areas. LPR Filters selectively reduce the transmission of certain
wavelengths of light, specifically those produced by artificial lights. This
includes mercury and high and low pressure sodium vapor lights. In addition,
they also block unwanted natural light (sky glow) caused by neutral oxygen
emission in our atmosphere.
Micro Guide Eyepiece (#94171) - This multipurpose 12.5mm illuminated
reticle can be used for guiding deep-sky astrophotos, measuring position
angles, angular separations, and more. The laser etched reticle provides razor
sharp lines and the variable brightness illuminator is completely cordless.
Moon Filter (94119-A) - Celestron’s Moon Filter is an economical eyepiece
filter for reducing the brightness of the moon and improving contrast, so
greater detail can be observed on the lunar surface. The clear aperture is
21mm and the transmission is about 18%.
54 • Optional Accessories
Page 58
Single Axis Motor Drive System - #93518
By adding the MDCG-5 Drive System to your mount, you add the capacity to
automatically
during long viewing or astrophotography sessions, when manual tracking can
become tiring. Furthermore, the Drive System will enhance high-power visual
observing. It attaches to the R.A. (east/west) drive axis of your CG-5 Mount
and will drive the telescope at the normal sidereal rate as well as allowing you
to guide at 2x and 4x sidereal. Power is supplied via a DC battery pack.
Planisphere (93720) - A simple and inexpensive tool for all levels of observers,
from naked eye viewers to users of highly sophisticated telescopes. The
Celestron Planisphere makes it easy to locate stars for observing and is a
great planet finder as well. A map of the night sky, oriented by month and day,
rotates within a depiction of the 24 hours of the day, to display exactly which
stars and planets will be visible at any given time. Ingeniously simple to use,
yet quite effective. Made of durable materials and coated for added
protection. Celestron Planispheres come in three different models, to match
the latitude from which you’re observing:
For 20
° to 40° of latitude#93720-30
For 30° to 50° of latitude#93720-40
For 40° to 60° of latitude#93720-50
Polarizing Filter Set (#93608) - The polarizing filter set limits the transmission of light to a specific plane, thus increasing contrast between various
objects. This is used primarily for terrestrial, lunar and planetary observing.
track objects in the sky, a convenience you’ll be sure to enjoy
Polar Axis Finderscope (#94221) - This useful accessory speeds accurate
polar alignment by providing a means of visually aligning your German equatorial mount with Polaris and true north. The finderscope has an eyepiece with
etched reticle for quick polar alignment.
Radial Guider (#94176) - The Celestron®Radial Guider is specifically de-
signed for use in prime focus, deep sky astrophotography and takes the place
of the T-Adapter. This device allows you to photograph and guide simultaneously through the optical tube assembly of your telescope. This type of
guiding produces the best results since what you see through the guiding
eyepiece is exactly reproduced on the processed film. The Radial Guider is a
“T”-shaped assembly that attaches to the rear cell of the telescope. As light
from the telescope enters the guider, most passes straight through to the
camera. A small portion, however, is diverted by a prism at an adjustable
angle up to the guiding eyepiece. This guider has two features not found on
other off-axis guiders; first, the prism and eyepiece housing rotate independently of the camera orientation making the acquisition of a guide star quite
easy. Second, the prism angle is tunable allowing you to look at guide stars
on-axis. This accessory works especially well with the Reducer/Corrector.
Reducer/Corrector (#94175) - This lens reduces the focal length of the
telescope by 37%, making your G-9 1/4 a 1481mm f/6.3 instrument. In addition, this unique lens also corrects inherent aberrations to produce crisp
images all the way across the field when used visually. When used photographically, there is some vignetting that produces a 26mm circular image on
the processed film. It also increases the field of view significantly and is ideal
for wide-field, deep-space viewing. It is also perfect for beginning prime focus,
long-exposure astrophotography when used with the Radial Guider. It makes
Optional Accessories • 55
Page 59
guiding easier and exposures much shorter.
Sky Maps (#93722) - Celestron Sky Maps are the ideal teaching guide for
learning the night sky. You wouldn’t set off on a road trip without a road map,
and you don’t need to try to navigate the night sky without a map either. Even
if you already know your way around the major constellations, these maps can
help you locate all kinds of fascinating objects.
T-Adapter (#93633-A) - T-Adapter (with additional T-Ring) allows you to attach
your 35mm SLR camera to the rear cell of your Celestron G-9 1/4 . This turns
your G-9 1/4 into a 2350mm telephoto lens perfect for terrestrial photography
and short exposure lunar and filtered solar photography.
T-C Adapter (#93636) - This adapter allows you to couple a video or movie
camera to a telescope. The camera must have a removable lens with a
standard “C” thread. The T-C adapter threads into the camera and then onto
the T-Adapter.
T-Ring - The T-Ring couples your 35mm SLR camera body to the T-Adapter,
radial guider, or tele-extender. This accessory is mandatory if you want to do
photography through the telescope. Each camera make (i.e., Minolta, Nikon,
Pentax, etc.) has its own unique mount and therefore, its own T-Ring.
Celestron has 9 different models for 35mm cameras.
Tele-Extender, Deluxe (#93643) - The tele-extender is a hollow tube that
allows you to attach a camera to the telescope when the eyepiece is installed.
This accessory is used for eyepiece projection photography which allows you
to capture very high power views of the Sun, Moon, and planets on film. The
Tele-Extender fits over the eyepiece onto the visual back. This tele-extender
works with eyepieces that have large housings, like the Celestron Ultima
series.
56 • Optional Accessories
A full description of all Celestron accessories can be found in the
Celestron accessory catalog (#93685).
Page 60
THE MESSIER CATALOGTHE MESSIER CATALOG
THE MESSIER CATALOG
THE MESSIER CATALOGTHE MESSIER CATALOG
The Messier Catalog, compiled by Charles Messier, was the first extensive listing of star clusters and nebulae.
Messier’s primary observational purpose was to discover comets. He compiled this list so that others searching
for comets would not be confused by these objects. His list still remains popular today because all of these
objects are easily visible in amateur telescopes.
The following is a list of astronomy books that will further enhance your understanding of the night sky. The
books are broken down by classification for easy reference.
Astronomy TextsAstronomy Texts
Astronomy Texts
Astronomy TextsAstronomy Texts
Astronomy Now ......................................................................................... Pasachoff & Kutner
Cambridge Atlas Of Astronomy ................................................................. Audouze & Israel
McGraw-Hill Encyclopedia Of Astronomy .................................................. Pa rker
Astrophotography A Step-by-Step Approach .............................................. Little
Astrophotography For The Amateur ........................................................... Covington
Astrophotography ...................................................................................... Gordon
Astrophotography II .................................................................................... Martinez
A Manual Of Celestial Photography ........................................................... King
Manual Of Advanced Celestial Photography ............................................... Wallis & Provin
Colours Of The Stars ................................................................................. Malin & Muirden
Page 65
CELESTRON ONE YEAR WARRANTY
A. Celestron International (CI) warrants this telescope to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for one year. CI will repair or
replace such product or part thereof which, upon inspection by CI, is found to be defective in materials or workmanship. As a condition
to the obligation of CI to repair or replace such product, the product must be returned to CI together with proof-of-purchase satisfactory to
CI.
B.The Proper Return Authorization Number must be obtained from CI in advance of return. Call Celestron at (310) 328-9560 to receive
the number to be displayed on the outside of your shipping container.
All returns must be accompanied by a written statement setting forth the name, address, and daytime telephone number of the owner, together
with a brief description of any claimed defects. Parts or product for which replacement is made shall become the property of CI.
The customer shall be responsible for all costs of transportation and insurance, both to and from the factory of CI,The customer shall be responsible for all costs of transportation and insurance, both to and from the factory of CI,
The customer shall be responsible for all costs of transportation and insurance, both to and from the factory of CI,
The customer shall be responsible for all costs of transportation and insurance, both to and from the factory of CI,The customer shall be responsible for all costs of transportation and insurance, both to and from the factory of CI,
and shall be required to prepay such costs.and shall be required to prepay such costs.
and shall be required to prepay such costs.
and shall be required to prepay such costs.and shall be required to prepay such costs.
CI shall use reasonable efforts to repair or replace any telescope covered by this warranty within thirty days of receipt. In the event repair
or replacement shall require more than thirty days, CI shall notify the customer accordingly. CI reserves the right to replace any product
which has been discontinued from its product line with a new product of comparable value and function.
This warranty shall be void and of no force of effect in the event a covered product has been modified in designThis warranty shall be void and of no force of effect in the event a covered product has been modified in design
This warranty shall be void and of no force of effect in the event a covered product has been modified in design
This warranty shall be void and of no force of effect in the event a covered product has been modified in designThis warranty shall be void and of no force of effect in the event a covered product has been modified in design
or function, or subjected to abuse, misuse, mishandling or unauthorized repair. Further, product malfunction oror function, or subjected to abuse, misuse, mishandling or unauthorized repair. Further, product malfunction or
or function, or subjected to abuse, misuse, mishandling or unauthorized repair. Further, product malfunction or
or function, or subjected to abuse, misuse, mishandling or unauthorized repair. Further, product malfunction oror function, or subjected to abuse, misuse, mishandling or unauthorized repair. Further, product malfunction or
deterioration due to normal wear is not covered by this warranty.deterioration due to normal wear is not covered by this warranty.
deterioration due to normal wear is not covered by this warranty.
deterioration due to normal wear is not covered by this warranty.deterioration due to normal wear is not covered by this warranty.
CI DISCLAIMS ANY WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, WHETHER OF MERCHANTABILITY OF FITNESS FOR A
PARTICULAR USE, EXCEPT AS EXPRESSLY SET FORTH HEREIN.
THE SOLE OBLIGATION OF CI UNDER THIS LIMITED WARRANTY SHALL BE TO REPAIR OR REPLACE THE COVERED
PRODUCT, IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE TERMS SET FORTH HEREIN. CI EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY LOST PROFITS,
GENERAL, SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHICH MAY RESULT FROM BREACH OF ANY
WARRANTY, OR ARISING OUT OF THE USE OR INABILITY TO USE ANY CI PRODUCT. ANY WARRANTIES WHICH ARE
IMPLIED AND WHICH CANNOT BE DISCLAIMED SHALL BE LIMITED IN DURATION TO A TERM OF ONE YEAR FROM
THE DATE OF ORIGINAL RETAIL PURCHASE.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages or limitation on how long an implied warranty
lasts, so the above limitations and exclusions may not apply to you.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
CI reserves the right to modify or discontinue, without prior notice to you, any model or style telescope.
If warranty problems arise, or if you need assistance in using your telescope contact:
Celestron International
Customer Service Department
2835 Columbia Street
Torrance, CA 90503
Tel. (310) 328-9560
Fax. (310) 212-5835
Monday-Friday 8AM-4PM PST
This warranty supersedes all other product warranties.
NOTE: This warranty is valid to U.S.A. and Canadian customers who have purchased this product from an
Authorized CI Dealer in the U.S.A. or Canada. Warranty outside the U.S.A. and Canada is valid only to customers who purchased from a CI International Distributor or Authorized CI Dealer in the specific country and
please contactthem for any warranty service.
Page 66
2835 Columbia Street2835 Columbia Street
2835 Columbia Street
2835 Columbia Street2835 Columbia Street
Torrance, CA 90503Torrance, CA 90503
Torrance, CA 90503
Torrance, CA 90503Torrance, CA 90503
Tel. (310) 328-9560Tel. (310) 328-9560
Tel. (310) 328-9560
Tel. (310) 328-9560Tel. (310) 328-9560
FaxFax
(310) 212-5835(310) 212-5835
Fax
(310) 212-5835
FaxFax
(310) 212-5835(310) 212-5835
www.celestron.comwww.celestron.com
www.celestron.com
www.celestron.comwww.celestron.com
Copyright 1999 Celestron InternationalCopyright 1999 Celestron International
Copyright 1999 Celestron International
Copyright 1999 Celestron InternationalCopyright 1999 Celestron International
All rights reserved.All rights reserved.
All rights reserved.
All rights reserved.All rights reserved.
(Products or instructions may change(Products or instructions may change
(Products or instructions may change
(Products or instructions may change(Products or instructions may change
without notice or obligation.)without notice or obligation.)
without notice or obligation.)
without notice or obligation.)without notice or obligation.)
Item # 11037-INSTItem # 11037-INST
Item # 11037-INST
Item # 11037-INSTItem # 11037-INST
07-9907-99
07-99
07-9907-99
Price $10.00Price $10.00
Price $10.00
Price $10.00Price $10.00
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