Catalina 36 Owner's Manual
YACHT NAME
C4tAL\~~
pb
=a
REGISTRATION
OR
DOCUMENTATION
NO
DATE OF COMMISSIONING
-
.-
OWNER'S NAME
s
2
3
*
POR
r
OF
CALL
HULL NUMBER
OWNER'S ADDRESS
b
6
.
LENGTH. OVERALL
STANDARD RIG..
......
36,.4"
.....................
DISTANCE FROM WATERLINE TO MASTHEAD
STANDARD RIG
..........................................
54.6 FT
TALL RIG
..................................................
56.6 FT
FRESH WATER CAPACITY
STARBOARD
..............................................
17 GAL
AFTCENTER TANK..
.. .....
25
GAL
'OTWATER
...................................
TOTAL..
.................................................
48 GAL
WASTE TANK CAPACITY
.............................
21 GAL
FUEL CAPACITY..
.........................................
33 GAL
BEAM
.......................................
11'-11"
LENGTH, WATERLINE..
..................................
30'-
3"
DRAFT
......
.......
STANDARD
....
5'-10"
SHOAL
.....................................................
5'-
1"
DISPLACEMENT
STANDARD..
.................
. .
13,500 EST LBS
..
..........................................
SHOAL 14,300 EST LBS
BALLAST
STANDARD
.......
6,000 LBS
...............................................
SHOAL 6,800 LBS
ICE BOX CAPACITY
................................
5.75
CU FT
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER
SAIL NUMBER
RADIO TELEPHONE CALL NUMBER
..................................
1.1
REFERENCE DATA SHEET
6
COMPIISSIONING CHECK LIST
..................................
2.1
PRE-LAUNCH PROCEDURE
7
2.2
IN THE WATER CHECK LIST
2.201
ELECTRICAL
.........w...
o..o..**o.*ee.*.....**7
.......................................
2.2.2
PLUMBING
7-8
...........................
2.2.3
RIGGING AND HARDWARE
8
2.2.4
ENGINE
...............................
..*000*0008
2.3
OPERATING CHECK LIST
....................................
2.3.1
FINAL CHECK
9
MAINTENANCE GUIDE
...................................
PRE-USE MAINTENANCE
10
MONTHLY MAINTENANCE
..................................
-10
..................................
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE
11
.....................
FIBERGLASS MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
12
.................
3.4.1
FIBERGLASS TOUCH UP AND REPAIR
1 3-14
.......................
BOTTOM PAINTING AND PREPARATION
15
......................................
TEAK MAINTENANCE
15
SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE
..........................l
5-17
SAIL MAINTENANCE
......................................l
7-18
................
INTERIOR CUSHION FABRIC COVER CLEANING
18
.......................................
3.9.1
CURTAINS
19
YACHT 'SYSTrnS. ' 'DESCRI'PTI'ONS'
'AND
'ILLUS'TRATI'ONS
4.1
RIGGING
..............................
4.1.1
STEPPING THE MAST
19
................................
4.1.2
TUNING THE MAST
20
........................
4.1.3
RIGGING WIRE CHECK LIST
21
......................................
4.1.4
SAIL PLAN
22
............
4.1.5
INTERNAL HALYARD MAST HEAD ASSEMBLY
23
..............................
4.1.6
MAIN SAIL REEFING
24
4.1.7
MAIN~SAIL/BOOM VANG ASSEMBLY
TOPPING LIFT ASSEMBLY
........................
GOOSE NECK ARRANGEMENT
-25
....................
4.1.8
MAINSHEET/TRAVELER
ASSEMBLY
26
............................
4.1.9
HALYARD ARRANGEMENT
27
......................
4.1.10
DECK HARDWARE ARRANGEMENT
28
4.2
ELECTRICAL
......................................
4.2.1
BATTERIES
29
.....................
4.2.2
D.C. SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM
30
............................
4.2.3
MAIN BATTERY SWITCH
31
..................
4.2.4
MAIN BATTERY SWITCH SCHEMATIC
31
................................
4.2.5 110
VOLT SYSTEM
31
.................
4.2.6 110
VOLT SHORE POWER SCHEMATIC
32
...........................
4.2.7 12
VOLT SCHEMATIC...
33
4.3
PLUMBING
4.3.1
HOT AND COLD PRESSURE SYSTEM PLUMBING
.....................................
SCHEMATIC
34
..............................
4.3.2
MANUAL BILGE PUMP
35
4.3.3
SEACOCKS
.......................................
35
4.3.4
THROUGH HULL LOCATIONS
.........................
36
.......................
4.3.5
MARINE TOILET OPERATIONS
3
7-38
............
4.3.6
MACERATOR PUMP AND TROUBLE SHOOTING
38
4.3.7
HOLDING TANK AND MACERATOR ILLUSTRATION
........
39
4.4
AUXILLARY POWER
4.4.1
GENERAL
ENGINE INFORMATION
.....................
40
4.4.2
PACKING
GLAND ASSEMBLY
.........................
40
.............
4.4.3
SHAFT PACKING GLAND (STUFFING BOX)
41
4.4.4
SHAFT ALIGNMENT
................................4
1-42
...................
4.4.5
SHAFT ALIGNMENT ILLUSTRATION
43
4.4.6
FUELING..
......
................................4
4-45
4.4.7
FUEL SANITATION
.................................
45
4.4.8
FUEL SYSTEM ILLUSTRATION
........................
46
4.4.9
EXHAUST SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
.....................4 7-48
4.4.10
ENGIlUE EXHAUST SYSTEII ILLUSTRATION
.............
49
4.5
STEERING
4.5.1
EMERGENCY TILLER
...............................
50
4.6
ACCOMODATION
4.6.1
GALLEY STOVE
...................................
51
4.6.2
CABIN ARRANGEmNT.
.............................
52
5.0
'
DECOMMI'S'S I'ONING
5.1
WINTERIZING YOUR ENGINE
...............................
5 3-55
5.2
RECOMMENDED LIFTING PROCEDURE
.........................
56
6.0
'OWNER-USER 'RESPONSIBILITY
6.1
GENERAL SAFETY TIPS
...................................
57
.............................
6.2
REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT
5 7-58
............................
6.3
SUGGESTED SAFETY EQUIPMENT
58
6.4
SAFETY PACKAGE. FACTORY OPTION
........................5
8-59
6.5
ANCHORS. ANCHORING AND MOORING.
.......................
59
6.6
LIGHTING PRECAUTIONS
..................................5
9-60
6.7
FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS
USCG BOOKLET (GPO:
19840-418-177)
2.0 COMMISSIONING CHECK
LIST
L
2.1 PRE-LAUNCH CHECK
:
1. SHAFT TURNS FREELY BY HAND, ZINC COLLAR INSTALLED IF REQUIRED
2.
CHECK INTAKE HOSES AND CLAMPS
3.
CHECK ALL THROUGH FULL FITTINGS
-
-
-
4.
DMIN
PLUGS TIGHT, ENGINE, MUFFLER, AND EXHAUST LINE
5.
BOTTOM
CLEAN,
PAINTK
6.
HULL
SIDES
CLEAN,
GEL
COAT
OK
7.
DECKS CLEAN
8. TEAK CLEANED AND OILED
9.
INTERIOR FINISHED, OILED, CLEAN
10. CUSHIONS, CARPETING, CURTAINS, CLEAN AND IN PLACE
11. TABLE CONVERTS TO BERTH OK, DINETTE, TRADITIONAL TARLE
STOWS
12. HATCH
LIDS
PRESENT
AND
FIT-OK
OK
13. LIFELENES AND PULPITS RIGGED AND OK
14. SPREADERS TAPED AND DRILLED AT BASE
END,UPPER SHROUD WIRED TO
TIP END AND TAPED
15. RIGGING LENGTES
mP.IFIED WITH CHECK LIST IN KIT
16. MAST AND BOOM
1NSPECTED:COTTER PINS, SHEAVES, TANGS,
SPREADER OK
17. MAST LIGHTS CHECKED BEFORE
MAST STEPPED
18. CHECK OVERHEAD FOR ELECTRICAL WIRES
FEICH
MAY
INTERFERE' WITH
THE SPACE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PAST TO ITS FULL UPRIGHT
POSITION.
IF
THERE ARE WIRES OF ANY KIND ANY WHERE NFAR
THE BOAT, DO NOT RAISE THE MAST. MOVE BOAT TO ANOTHER
LOCATION AWAY FROM ANY WIRES. CONTACT WITH
WIRE'S CAW
BE
FATAL.
2.1 IN WATER CHECK:
2.2.1 ELECTRICAL:
1. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OPERATIONAL:
-
RUNNING CABIN BOW ANCHOR SPREADFRS
PRESSURE-
WATER
MA~TOR
PUMPMASTER
-
2.
SHORE POWER~TLET
3. CHECK BATTERY SWITCH #1
#2-
OK
4.
CHECK
BATTERY
FLUID
LEVK
5.
CBECK BATTFRY TERMINAL FOR TIGHTNESS
2.2.2 PLUMBING:
1. NO LEAKS AT THRU HULL FITTINGS WITH
SEACOCKS OPEN
2. FILL ALL WATER TANKS
3.
CHECK ALL WATER TANKS
4.
TEST ALL FAUCETS AND FOOT PUMPS FOR LEAKS
5.
CHECK FOR LEAKS AT SINK DRAIN, SINK DRAINS OK
6. PUT WATER IN ICE BOX AND CHECK FOR PROPER DRAINAGE
7.
CHECK BILGE PUMP OPERATION, FIANDLE PRESENT
8. CHECK HEAD BY FLUSHING AND PUMPING
9.
CHECK SHOWER SUMP DRAIN LINE
10. CHECK KOLDING TANK, PUMP VENT AND FITTING
COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST (CONTD):
-
11.
-
CHECK HEAD AND PUMP HANDLE FOR LEAKS
12.
-
MAIN HATCH NO LEAKS,
SLIDES FREELY,HATCH BOARDS FIT OK
13.
-
CABIN WINDOWS HOSE TESTED FOR LEAKS
14.
-
ANCHOR LOCKER DRAIN OK, NO LEAKS
15
.-
STOVE OPERATES OK: CHECKS, TANK, FUEL LINE, BURNER,
AND
OVEN
2.2.3
RIGGING AND HARDWARE:
1.
-
MAST STEPPED
2.
-
PIN, TAPE,
AND
TUNE STANDING RIGGING
3.
-
BACKSTAY ADJUSTER, WHISKER POLE, SPINNAKER GEAR, BOOM VANG
4.
-
BLOCKS, CARS, CLEATS RIGGED OK
5.
-
TEST
ALL
WINCHES, WINCH HANDLES PRESENT
2.2.4
ENGINE:
1.
-
NO LEAKS: SHAFT, RUDDER, STUFFING BOX, OR SHAFT LOG
2.
-
SHAFT, DIMPLED FOR SET BOLTS AT COUPLING;
BOLTS
WIRED
AND
COUPLING SECURED
3.
-
WITH FUEL TANKS
FULL,
NO LEAKS AT FILL PIPES, OVERFLOW VENT,
OR
ANY
FUEL LINE CONNECTIONS
4.
-
WITH COUPLING DISCONNECTED,
ENGINE
AND
SHAFT ALIGNMENT OK-
RECHECK ALIGNMENT AFTER RIGGING TUNED
5.
-
TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL OK
6.
-
CRANK CASE OIL LEVEL OK
7.
-
FUEL
VALVES OPEN, BLEED
AND
PRIME LINES
IF
DIESEL ENGINE
8.
-
CHECK THAT SHAFT
IS
COUPLED
AND
ALIGNED TO
.003
MAXIMUM
TOLERANCE
9.
-
ENGINE WIRE OK,
CONNECTIONS TIGHT
10.
-
THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE TRAVEL
AND
BRACKETS OK
11.
-
CLUTCH CONTROL CABLE TRAVEL
AND
BRACKETS OK
12.
-
START ENGINE
13.
-
EXHAUST WATER FLOW OK
14.
-.
NO LEAKS IN FUEL LINES
AT
FITTING,
FUFL
FILTER, FUEL
PUMP,
OR INJECTORS
15.-
NO ENGINE OR OIL LEAKS
16.
-
IDLING SPEED SET R.P.M.'S
17.-
CHECK CHOKE
OPERAEN,
CHECK
SHUTOFF
CABLE
FOR
DIESFL
ENGINE
18.
-
CHECK FOREWARD
AND
REVERSE SHIFTING
19.
-
CHECK ENGINE INSTRUMENTS FOR OPERATION, TACHOMETER FOR
CALIBRATION
20.
RUN IN GEAR FOR TEN
(10)
MINUTES
21.
-
RECHECK PACKING GLAND AFTER ENGINE STOPS
22.
-
BILGE BLOWER AND VENT SYSTEM OK
COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST (CONTD):
OPERATING CHECK LIST:
1.
PEDESTAL STEERING OPERATION
OK,
COVPASS OK
-
2.
SAILS AND HALYARD OK
-
3.
BOAT'PERFORMANCE UNDER POWER ANf) SAIL OK
-
2.3.1
FINAL CHECK:
1.
-
ALL ACCESSORY EQUIPMENT OPERATES OK
2.
-
ALL BOAT, ENGINE, AND ACCESSORY LITERATURE, AND/OR MANUALS
ABOARD
3.
-
WARRANTY CARDS COMPLETED AND MAILED, OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
ATTACHED, OWNER INFORMED OF WARRANTY RESPONSIBILITIES
4.
-
ENGINE WARRANTY CARD COMPLETED
AND
MAILED
MAINTENANCE
PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:
GUIDE
RIGGING
f.
INSPECT TURNBUCKLES TIGHTEN AS REQUIRED.
2. INSPECT CLEVIS PINS AND COTTER PINS.
3.
VISUALLY INSPECT SPREADER TIPS AND OTHER AREAS
WHERE
SAILS
MAY
CHAFE DURING SAILING, REPLACE TAPE AS NECESSARY.
4.
HALYARDS FREE
AND
NOT TANGLED.
5.
INSPECT MAST HARDWARE ATTACHMENT BOLTS, TIGHTEN AS RFQUIRED.
HULL
AND
DECK
INSPECTION:
1.
BILGES
AND
COMPARTMENTS ARE DRY.
2. THRU HULL VALVES, HOSES, AND CLAMPS,
OK.
3.
CHECK RUNNING LIGHTS
ENGINE
:
1.
CHECK ENGINE OIL AND FUEL LEVELS.
2.
PACKING GLAND OK, COOLING WATER INTAKE VALVE OPENS
AND
CLOSES OK.
3.
THROTTLE SHIFT OK.
4.
BLOWER SYSTEM.
5.
CHECK BILGE AREAS FOR FUEL BEFORE STARTING ENGINE.
MONTHLY MAINTENANCE
:
RIGGING
:
1.
INSPECT CHAIN PLATES, FASTENINGS,
AND
BOLTS, TIGHTEN AS NECESSARY.
2.
INSPECT BLOCKS, SHACKLES, COTTER PINS.
3.
CHECK RIGGING TUNE, TIGGING WIRE CONDITION.
4.
CHECK TURNBUCKLES AND LOCKING PINS.
HULL AND DECK:
1.
CHECK COCKPIT DRAINS, CLEAR DEBRIS.
2.
INSPECT HULL VALVES, OPEN AND CLOSE FREELY.
3.
WINCHES TURN FREELY, LUBRICATE AS PER MANUFACTURE'S RECOMMENDATIONS.
4.
CLEAN AND OIL EXTERIOR TEAK AS NECESSARY.
5.
CLEAN AND
WAX
GEL COAT SURFACES AS NECESSARY.
ENGINE
:
1.
CHECK OIL
AND
FLUID LEVELS.
2.
BATTERY: CHECK FLUID LEVELS
AND
TIE DOWNS.
3.
TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS
AND
NUTS TO PROPER TORQUE.
4.
CHECK FUEL TANK FITTINGS,
AND
HOSE CLAMPS.
5.
DISASSEMBLE
AND
INSPECT COOLING SYSTEM ANTI-SYPHON (LOCATED UNDER
GALLEY COUNTER NEAR SINK).
MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:
RIGGING
:
1.
MAST
HEAD
PTNS AND SHEAVES
TURN
FREELY.
2.
HALYARDS ARF IN GOOD CONDITION
3.
SPREADERS TIPS AND BASES, AND MAST FITTINGS
4.
ALL SEROUD TERMINATIONS AND SWEDGED FITTINGS,'CHECK FOR CRACKS
OR CORROSION.
5.
GOOSENECK ASSEMBLY AND BOOM ASSEMBLY.
6.
MAST, BOOM,
AND
SPREADERS CLEANED
AND
WAXED.
HULL, DECK,
AND
CABIN:
1.
ALL CHAINPLATES
AND
THRU BOLTS TIGHT.
2.
DISASSEMBLE WINCHES AND LUBRICATE BEARINGS AND PAWLS.
3.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEK
AND
BATTERY TIE DOWNS, COAT TO PREVENT CORROSION,
AND TERMINAL CONNECTORS.
4.
DRAIN
AND
FLUSH FRESH WATER SYSTEM.
5.
CHECK
HEAD
AND
ANTI-SIPHON VALVE IN TOILET.
6.
HATCH GASKETS, AND HOLD DOWN DOGS.
7.
BOTTOM, KEEL, AND RUDDER CONDITION.
8.
LIFELINES, STANCHIONS,
AND
PELICAN HOOKS.
ENGINE
:
1.
CHECK SHAFT ALIGNMENT, REPACK STUFFING BOX IF NECESSARY.
2.
CLEAN MOTOR THOROUGHLY.
3.
INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM.
4.
TUNE ENGINE AS PER MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATIONS.
3.0 MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
FIBERGLASS MAINTENANCE
AND
REPAIR:
ONE OF THE
MAJOR BENEFITS OF A FIBERGLASS BOAT IS THE ELIXINATION OF
MAINTENANCE CHORES REQUIRED BY
OTWR MATERIALS. YOU
HAVE
ONLY THREE
RELATIVELY
EASY
MAINTENANCE
RULES
TO
FOLLOW
TO
KEEP
YOUR
BOAT
LOOKING
LIKE NEW.
1.
EACH YEAR CLEAN, BUFF,
AND
WAX THE EXTERIOR OF
THE
BOAT,
2.
TOUCH UP AND PATCH SCRATCHES, SCARS,
AND
SMALL BREAKS.
3. REPAIR
ANY
MATOR BREAKS
AS
SOON AS POSSIBLE TO AVOID ADDITIONAL
DAMAGE TO THE HULL OR DECKS.
MOST FIBERGLASS BOATS
ARE
MANUFACTURED OF TWO "LAYERS"
OF
MATERIAL,
PERMANENTLY BONDED TOGETHER BY
A
CHEMICAL REACTION.
THE
OUTSIDE SURFACE IS FORMED BY A COLORED GEL COAT. THIS IS A SPECIAL RESIN MATERIAL
CONTAINING CONCENTRATED COLOR. IT PROVIDES A SMOOTH, FINISHED SURFACE.
THE
SECOND
"LAYER"
IS
MADE
UP
OF
POLYESTER
RESIN
REINFORCED
WTH
LAM-
INATIONS OF FIBER GLASS MAT,
CLOTH, OR WOVEN
ROVIESC,.-BOTH-THF GEL COAT
AND POLYESTER RESIN
ARE
"CURED" BY A CHEMICAL CATALYST WHICH CAUSES
THEM TO FORM A
HARD,
STRONG MASS THAT IS HIGHLY RESISTANT TO IMPACT
AND
DAMAGE.
AFTER SAILING, A GOOD HOSING DOWN WITH FRESH WATER
AND
A
MILD
DETERGENT
WILL KEEP YOUR BOAT SPARKLING FRESH
AND
CLEAN. THE NON-SKID SURFACES
MAY
NEED TO BE SCRUBBED
WITH
DETERGENT. SMOOTH GLASS AREAS MAY BE POLISHED
WITH LIQUID WAX OR
ANY
GOOD FIBERGLASS WAX TO ADD EXTRA LUSTRE. IN THE
CASE OF OLDER BOATS,
WHERE SOME FADING OF
THE
GEL COAT HAS OCCURRED, THE
SURFACE SHOULD BE BUFFED WITH POLISHING COMPOUND
AND
THEN WAX FINISHED.
WHEN BUFFING THE BOAT TO RESTORE ITS FINISH, CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN NOT TO
CUT THROUGH THE GEL COAT SURFACE. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE ON CORNERS
AND
EDGES OF THE HULL.
A POWER BUFFER MAY BE USED OR THE WORK DONE BY HAND,
USING A LIGHTLY ABRASIVE RUBBING COMPOUND SUCH AS
MIRRO GLAZE NO. 1 FOR
POWER BUFFERS, OR DUPONT NO.
7
FOR HAND BUFFING.
ANY
HIGH OUALITY PASTE
WAX MAY BE USED AFTER BUFFING.
3.4.1
FIBERGLASS TOUCH UP
AND REPAIR
Scratches, Shallow Nicks, Gouges, Small Holes
4at do not penetrate through the hull)
-
These repairs are easy because only the surface of the boat is da-
maged.
They fall into two categories:
(1) damage to the gel coat
colored outer surface, and
(2)
holes or gouges that are deep enough to
penetrate the fiber glass reinforced area of the boat. The repair opera-
tions are similar.
For damage to the gel coat surface, you will need a small can of gel
coat, of the same color as your boat, and a small amount of catalyst.
For deeper holes or gouges
(118"
or more) you will also need some
short strands of fiber glass which can be trimmed from fiber glass mat or
purchased in the form of "milled fibers." These materials can be pur-
chased from your dealer.
(1)
Be sure the area around the damage is wiped clean and dry.
RE
move any wax or oil from the inside of the hole or scratct
(2) Using a power drill with a burr attachment, roughen the bottor
and sides of the damaged area and feather the edge surroundin
the scratch or gouge. Do not "undercut" this edge. (If th
scratch
or hole
is
shallow and penetrates only the color gt
coat, skip to step No.
8.)
(3)
Into a jar lid or on a piece of cardboard, pour a small amoun
of gel coat
. .
.
just enough to fill the area being worked or
Mix an equal amount of milled fibers with this gel coat,
usin
a putty knife or small flat stick. Then add two drops o
catalyst, using an eyedropper for accurate measurement. Fo
a half-dollar-size pile of gel coat, this amount of catalyst
wil
give you 15 to 20 minutes working time before it begins
t~
"gel". Carefully cut the catalyst into the gel coat and mi:
thoroughly.
(4)
Work this mixture of gel coat, fibers and catalyst into tht
damaged area, using the sharp point of a putty knife or knifc
blade to press it into the bottom of the hole and to puncturc
any air bubble which may occur. Fill the scratch or hole abovt
the surrounding undamaged area about
111
6".
(5) Lay a piece of cellophane or waxed paper over the repair tc
cut off the air and start the "cure."
7)
Again use the electric drill with burr attachment to rough up
the bottom and edges of the hole. Feather hole into surrounding gel coat, do not undercut.
-n
1
11.
Immediately after trimming, place another small amount ot gel
6)
After
10
or
15
minutes the patch will
be
partially cured. When
coat on one edge of the patch and cover with cellophane. Then,
it
feels rubbery to the touch, remove the cellophane and trim
using a rubber squeegee or back of the razor blade, squeegee
flush with the surface, using a sharp razor blade or knife.
Re-
level with area surrounding the patch.
Leave cellophane on
place the cellophane and allow to cure completely
(30
minutes
patch for
1
to 2 hours, or overnight, for a complete cure.
to an hour). The patch will shrink slightly below the surface
as
it
cures.
12.
USING A SANDING
BLOCK,
sand the patched area with
600
(8)
Pour out a small amount of gel coat into a jar lid or on card-
grit WET sandpaper.
Finish by rubbing or buffing with
a
fine
board.
Add
a
drop or two of catalyst and mix thoroughtly,
rubbing compound. Some slight color difference may be
ob-
using a cutting motion rather than stirring.
Use no fibers.
served. Weathering will blend touch-up, if properly applied.
(9)
Using your finger tip or the tip of a putty knife, fill the hole
about
1/16"
above the surrounding surface with the gel coat
mixture.
0.
Lay a piece of cellophane over the patch to start
the
curing
process. Repeat step
6,
trimming patch when part~ally cured.
MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
BOTTOM BARRIER COATING AND PAINT PREPARATION:
IT IS RECOMMENDED THE UNDERWATER SURFACES BE COVERED WITH A
BARRIER COAT TO PREVENT
WATER PENETRATION INTO THE GEL COAT.
BARRIER COATINGS
ARE
AVAILABLE FROM SEVERAL PAINT MANUFACTURERS,
AND THEIR COATING RECOMMENDATIONS SHOULD BE CAREFULLY FOLLOWED
FOR A SUCCESSFUL APPLICATION.
FOR THOSE OWNERS WHO APPLY
AKTI-FOULING PAINT THEMSELVES, IT
SHOULD BE NOTED THAT MOST BRANDS REQUIRE A:
UND~RWATER FIBER-
GLASS SURFACES TO BE VERY CAREFULLY SANDED
AND
PRIMED IMMEDIETLY
PRIOR TO THE FIRST APPLICATION ON A NEW BOAT. IN ANY
FZENT,
THE INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER OF THE PAINT USED SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED.
ANTI-FOULING PAINT SHOULD BE APPLIED TO THE
ROTTOM. OF YOUR
CATALINA
36
.
IF IT IS TO BE MOORED IN EITHER FRESH OR SALT
'-
WATER FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. THEFE ARE
V?Y
BRANDS
AVAILABLE.
ANTI-FOULING PAINT PREVENTS
TEE GROWTH OF ALGAE, BARNACLES, AND
OTHER FOULING ORGANISMS ON UNDERWATER SURFACES. BEFOFE APPLYING
BOTTOM PAINT, THE BOTTOM SHOULD BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED
WITH A
SOLVENT TO REMOVE ANY WAX.
TEAK MAINTENANCE:
WOOD TRIM AND PARTS-MOST EXTERIOR WOOD IS TEAK
AND CAN BE KEPT
LOOKING GOOD BY OCCASIONAL OILING WITH TEAK OIL.
SHOULD THE TEAK BECOME WEATHERED, CLEANING AND BLEACHING WITH A
COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE TEAK CLEANER AND BLEACH WILL RESTORE! TEE
COLOR OF THE WOOD. THEN OIL THE WOOD WITH A GOOD GRADE TEAK OIL
TO RESTORE THE GOLDEN COLOR OF THE TEAK. DO NOT USE WIRE OR
HARD
BRISTLE BRUSHES ON THE WOOD, AS THIS WILL REMOVE THE SOFTER WOOD
BETWEEN THE ANNUAL RINGS AND LEAVE A ROUGH SURFACF.
SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE:
STANDING RIGGING:
YOUR BOAT IS EQUIPPED WITH STAINLESS STEEL STANDING RIGGING, DACRON
RUNNING RIGGING, TO GIVE YOU YEARS OF TROUBLE FREE SERVICE.
HOWEVER, DO TO NORMAL
WEARSAND TEAR, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT A
PERIODIC INSPECTION BE
,WIDE ON ALL FITTINGS AND WIRE. TURNBUCKLES
SHOULD NEVER BE NEGLECTED AND SHOULD BE UNSCREWED FROM
TIYE TO
TIME IN ORDER THAT THEY DON'T SIEZE. EVERY THREE MONTHS SHOULD
BE ABOUT RIGHT FOR THE AVERAGE SAILOR. A SLIGHTLY BENT TURNBUCKLE SHAFT OR BROKEN WIRE IN YOUR SHROUDS SHOULD BE REPLACED
IMMEDIATELY.
UNDER MOST CONDITIONS,
1
X
19
STANDZNG RIGGING HAS A SAFE "I'?ORKINGW
LIFE SPAN OF APPROXIMATELY FIVE YEARS: SEVEN YEARS UNDER IDEAL
CONDITIONS. FACTORS WHICH REDUCE THE LIFE OF THE WIRE ARE
ENVIROMENTAL FACTORS SUCH AS HIGH HUMIDITY (FLORIDA, THE CARIBBEAN,
AND
GULF STATES): HIGH SALINITY (GREAT LAKE, GULF STATES, OR
MOORING NEAR A SEA WALL WITH CONSTANT SALT SPRAY); EXTREMES IN
TEMPERATURE; AND INDUSTRIAL POLLUSTION (PULP MILLS, GENERATING
PLANTS,
ACID RAIN, AND SMOG). HIGH LOADING OF THE RIGGING AS
3.0
MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
REQUIRED IN MOST RACING BOATS ALSO INDUCES STRESS IN THE
RIGGING SYSTEM*
MANY OF US HAVE TO DEAL WITH AT LEAST ONE OF THESE CONDITIONS
AND SHOULD CONSIDER REPLACING STANDING RIGGING NEARER THE
FIVE
YEAR LIMIT.
UNLIKE RUNNING RIGGING WIRE ROPE, WHICH GIVES US CLEAR SIGNS
THAT IT IS DETERIORATING BY BROKEN STRANDS AND "MEAT HOOKS",
STANDING RIGGING MAY GIVE NO SIGN THAT FAILURE IS IMMINENT.
THE USUAL POINT OF FAILURE OF STAY OR SHROUD IS APPROXIFATELY
1/4"
INSIDE THE BOTTOM SWEDGED THREADED STUD FITTING WHICH
THREADS INTO THE TURNBUCKLE BARREL.
ALTHOUGH THE STUD IS COMPRESSED AROUND THE WIRE DURING THE
SWEDGING PROCESS, SALT WATER AND POLLUTANTS WORK
DOWN INTO
THE TINE CAVITIES BETWEEN THE WIRE STRANDS AND THE INEVITABLE
CORROSIVE PROCESS STARTS IN THE CREVICE THE FIRST TIME
THF
RIGGING BECOMES WET WITH SALT WATER.
A COMMON METHOD OF VISUALLY MONITORING SWEDGE FITTING CONDITIONS
EMPLOYED BY DISTANT RACERS AND CRUISERS IS TO DAB A SMALL RING
OF ENAMEL PAINT AROUND THE JOINT BETWEEN THE WIRE AND THE SWEDGE
FITTING. THIS WILL HELP PROVIDE A MEANS TO SEE
IF
THE WIRE IS
PULLING OUT OF THE FITTING.
ANOTHER TECHNIQUE USED TO CHECK THE CONDITION OF SWEDGE FITTINGS
IS A
"DIE PENETRANT" TEST. THIS SIMPLE TEST WILL DETECT ANY
CRACKS WHICH MAY DEVELOP IN THE FITTINGS DUE TO INTERNAL PRESSURE
FROM THE CORROSIVE PROCESS. INEXPENSIVE DIE TEST KITS USUALLY
ARE AVAILABLE AT MOST WELDING SUPPLY STORES. DIE TESTS USUALLY
ARE NOT REQUIRED BY WEEKEND SAILORS, BUT MAY RE DONE BEFORE
AN
EXTENDED CRUISE OR OCEAN PASSAGE IF ANY DOUBT ABOUT TFE INTEGRITY
OF THE RIGGING EXISTS.
ALL STAINLESS STEEL
WIRE ROPE RIGGING WILL DEVELOP SOME RUST FILM
WHEN NEW.THIS IS NORMAL.
THE RUST IS CAUSED BY TWO FACTORS. WHEN WIRE ROPE IS MANUFACTURED,
THE
WIRE STRANDS ARE FED OVER STEEL ROLLERS DURING TEE PROCFSS
OF TWISTING OF LAYING THE WIRE. TRACE AMOUNTS OF
THE-FEmQUS
STEEL FROM THE ROLLERS AND DIES ARE TRAPJSFERRED TO THE WIRE
STRANDS. AS THIS SMALL
AMOUNT OF STEEL RUSTS IT CAUSES A FILM
ON THE NEW WIRE.
THE SECOND CAUSE OF THE RUST FILM ON NEW WIRE ROPE IS
TEE
MICROSCOPIC VEINS OF FERROUS MATERIAL WHICH EXIST IN ALL STAIN-
LESS STEEL.
AFTER A PERIOD OF TTFIE, AS TEE SURFACE MATERIAL
VEINS ARE DEPLETED, AND THE STAINLESS STEEL HAS BEEN CLEANED
SEVERAL TIMES, NEW RUST FILM DEVELOPMENT
F?ILL SLOW TO A MINIMUM.
FOR THE AVERAGE SAILOR, THE BEST INSURANCE AGAINST A RIGGING
FAILURE IS A PERIODIC
(EWRY SIX MONTHS IS RECOMMENDED) INSPECTION
OF ALL RIGGING PARTS, INCLUDING TURNBUCKLES, AND REPLACEMENT OF
STANDING RIGGING AS REQUIRED.
MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
FITTINGS
:
MARINE FITTINGS TODAY NEED LITTLE MAINTENANCE. DECK HARDWARE
SHOULD BE HOSED DOWN WITH FRESH WATER AFTER EACH SAIL IN SALT
WATER. STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS SUCH AS PULPITS AND LIFELINE
STANCHIONS SHOULD BE CLEANED AND WAXED PERIODICALLY TO MAINTAIN
THEIR APPEARANCE. WINCHES REQUIRE OCCASSIONAL CLEANING AND
LUBRICATION.
WHERE POSSIBLE, A MAINTPNANCE BROCHURE FOR YOUR
WINCHES HAS BEEN INCLUDED IN THIS MANUAL. MASTHEAD FITTINGS,
HALYARD SHEAVES, ETC., SHOULD BE INSPECTED, CLEANED, AND
LUBRICATED PERIODICALLY. KEEP YOUR EQUIPMENT CLEAN OF DIRT
AND SALT.
SPARS
:
LIKE ALL OTHER FITTINGS, MAST AND BOOMS SUFFER FROM SALT WATER,
AIR AND SPRAY. THESE SHOULD BE KEPT WAXED WHERE POSSIBLE, AND
AT LEAST ALWAYS HOSED DOWN WITH FRESH WATER. ALWAYS SEE THAT
THE HALYARDS ARE TIED OFF AWAY FROM THE MAST. THIS WILL ELIMINATE
SLAPPING IN THE WIND, AND SUBSEQUENT MARKING OF THE
bIAST. KEEP
TACK PIN (WHICH IS LOCATED ON FRONT OF BOOM) WILL LUBRICATED,
AS THE STAINLESS STEEL PIN CAN BECOME SEIZED IN THE ALUMINUM
GOOSENECK CASTING WITHOUT PROPER LUBRICATION.
FIND A HIGH
PRESSURE
NOZZLE
AND
SHOOT
FRESH
WATER
TO
THE
TOP
OF
THE MAST AND SPREADERS. THIS WILL HELP KEEP YOUR SAILS CLEAN
TOO, AS THEY RUB ON THE MAST AND SPREADERS.
INSPECT SPREADERS AND SPREADER BRACKETS FOR SIGNS OF FATIGUE.
SEE THAT ENDS OF SPREADERS ARE WIRED AND WELL COVERED WITH TAPE
TO PREVENT WEAR ON THE SAILS.
SAIL MAINTENANCE:
SAILS SHOULD NEVER BE PUT AWAY
PET.
IF THEY ARE WET AFTER
SAILING,
LEAVE THEM LOOSE IN RUNDLES AND DRY THEM AT YOUR.
FIRST OPPORTUNITY.
FOR MOST PROBLEMS SUCH
AS
COMVON DIRT, DRIED OR CAKED SALT,
ETC., TRY
SCRUBBING THE SURFACF FTITP A SOFT BRISTLED BRUSH
AND LIOUID DFTERGENT
.
AVOID FARSF POWDER DFTBRGENTS AND
STIFF BRUSHES, AS TBEY
YAY
DAMAGF THF FINISH
OR
STITCFINC.
THIS APPROACH SHOULD WORK NICFLY FOR MOST APPLICATIONS.
MORE
SWERE STAINS CAW RF TACKEN CARF
OF
FY
THE FOLL017ING:
*
IMPORTANT: FOR WHTTE SAILS OIJLY!
.BLOOD: SOAK THE STAINED PORTION
FOR
10-20
YINUTES IN A
SOLUTION OF
RLEaCP (CLOROX) AND
WARM
WATER.
GENFRALLV
10
PARTS WATER TO 1 PART BLEACH. SCRUB AND REPFAT IF NECESSAY.
RINSE THOROUGHLY, PARTICULARLY NYLON,
AND DRY COMPLETE1,Y.
OIL, GREASE, TAR AYD WAX:
WARM
TflATER, SOAP AND ELROW GRFASE
SEEM TO BE EFFECTIVE. ON PARD STAINS, PROPRIETY STAIN REMOVF'R
AND DRY CLEANING FLUIDS SHOULD DO THE TRICK.
RE
CAREFUL TO
REMOVE ALL FLUIDS. AS
THEY CAN SOFTEN THE VARIOUS RESINATED
COATINGS ON SAILCLOTH.
17
MAINTENANCE GUIDE (CONTD)
RUST AND METALLIC STAINS: THESE TYPES OF STAINS ARE VERY OFTEN
THE MOST FRUSTRATING AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, FIRST
SCRUB WITH SOAP AND WATER, AND APPLY ACETONE,
M.E.K.,
OR ALCOHOL. AS A LAST RES0.RT8 YOU MIGHT TRY A DILUTED
MIXTURE (5%) OF OXALIC SOAKED FOR 15-20
minutes.
hydrochloric acid, 2 PARTS TO 100 IN WARM WATER, WILL
ALSO. WORK.
MILDEW: HOT SOAPY WATER WITH A LITTLE BLEACH WILL GENERALLY
PREVAIL. AFTER SCRUBBING, LEAVE THE SOLUTION ON THE
FABRIC FOR A FEW MINUTES AND RINSE THOROUGHLY. WHEN
USING A BLEACH, A RESIDUAL CHLORINE SMELL MAY BE
Pm-
SENT AFTER RINSING. A 1% SOLUTION OF THIOSULPHATE
(PHOTOGRAPHER'S EYPO) SHOULD REMOVE ALL CHLORINE TRACES.
HERE AGAIN, RINSE AND DRY WELL.
PAINT AND VARNISH: ACETONE AND M.E.K. SHOULD REMOVE MOST COMMON
PAINT AND STAINS. VARNISH CAN BE EASILY
RFKOVED WITH
ALCOHOL.
TEMPERKOTE OR MYLAR SAILS ARE STILL NEW AND EXPERIMENTAL, AT
THIS POINT IN TIME, AVOID MOST SOLVENTS, AS THEY CAN DAMAGE THF
FABRIC OVER A PERIOD OF TIME. SOAP AND DILUTED BLEACHES SHOULD
TAKE CARE OF MOST STAINS.
GENERALLY SPEAKING, USE ALL SOLVENTS WITH CARE. ALWAYS RINSE
AND DRY THOROUGHLY. IT SHOULD BE EMPHASIZED THAT NYLON RIPSTOP
SPINNAKER FABRICS ARE LESS DURABLE
AND
MORE SENSITIVE THAN THEIR
POLYESTER COUNTERPARTS. BLEACHES AND SOLVENTS CAN RUIN NYLON
IF NOT USED PROPERLY.
FOLLOW THE ABOVE GUIDELINES, TAKE YOUR SAILS INTO YOUR SAILMAKER
FOR PERIODICAL INSPECTION, AND I'M SURE YOU WILL HAVE MANY
EFFECTIVE SEASONS OF RACING AND CRUISING PLEASURE.
INTERIOR CUSHION, FABRIC COVER:
CLFANING
:
1. REGULAR VACUM CLEANING OR BRUSHING IN THE DIRECTION OF THE
PILE WITH A SOFT BRUSH.
2,
STAINS SHOULD, IF POSSIBLE, BE REMOVED AT ONCE WITH A DAMP
CLOTE, DO NOT ALLOW STAINS TO HARDEN AND AGE,
3.
GREASY STAINS CAN BE REMOVED WITH ORDINARY CLEANING FLUID.
4.
FOR OVERALL CLEANING, USE COMMERCIAL TYPES OF UPHOLSTERY
SHAMPOO USING ONLY THE FOAM TO PROTECT THE BACK PADDING
FROM MOISTURE. AFTER A MINUTE OR SO, REMOVE FOAM, AND
WHEN
DRY, VACUM OR BRUSH IN THE DIRECTION OF THE PILE.
5. DO NOT USE HEAT SUCH AS AN IRON OR STEAM.
3.9.1 CURTAINS
:
WHEN CURTAINS BECOME SOILED, DO NOT HAND OR MACHINE WASH,
FOR IT WILL WEAKEN THE MATERIAL. DRY CLEANING IS THE
RE-
COMMENDED PROCEDURE FOR THE REMOVAL OF ANY DIRT OR STAINS.
YACHT SYSTEMS
RIGGING
:
4.1.1 STEPPING THE MAST:
CAUTION: THE AMULINUM
AND
OTHER METAL PARTS CONDUCT
ELECTRICITY COMING
IN
CONTACT WITH OR NEAR AN ELECTRICAL
POWER LINE OR LIGHTNING CAN CAUSE SEVERE INJURY OR DEATE.
STAY AWAY FROM OVERHEAD ELECTRICAL
POWER LINES WHEN SAIL-
ING AND/OR LAUNCHING THE BOAT,
WHEN TRAILERING YOUR BOAT
ALT4AYS TRY TO
UNDO
AS LITTLE
RIGGING AS POSSIBLE, IT IS NECESSARY ONLY TO UNDO THE
TWO FORWARD LOWER SHROUDS AND THE
FORESTAY BEFORE LOW-
ERING THE MAST,
BEFORE RAISING
JazASTt MAKE SURE HALYARDS ARE NEATLY TIED
DOWN
AND
THAT THEY ARE ON PROPER SIDES OF THE SPREADERS.
YOU SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT TO RAISE THE MAST UNLESS THE
UPPER SHROUDS (THOSE THAT PASS OVER THE SHROUDERS) AND
THE
AFT
LOWER
SHROUDS
ARE
ATTACHED TO THE DECK FITTINGS
AND
THE TURNBUCKLES WELL 'STARTED' INTO THEIR BARRELS.
THE TURNBUCKLES MUST NOT BE COMPLETELY TIGHTENED HOWEVER, BECAUSE SLACK IS NEEDED
IN
THE SHROUDS TO ENABLE
THE MAST
TO
BE FULLY RAISED. THE BACKSTAY SHOULD
BE
ATTACHED TO THE TRANSOM CHAINPLATE. THE UPPER SHROUDS,
AFTER LOWER SHROUDS, AND
BACKSTAY WILL KEEP THE MAST
FROM FALLING OVER
WEN ITS RAISED , THEREFORE, ALL
OF
THESE MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE CHAINPLATES BEFORE
THE
MAST IS RAISED.
YAKE SURE THAT THE SHROTJDS AND STAYS ARE NOT FOULED.
BACKSTAY SHOULD LIE CLEAR OF THE TFLANSOM, YOU
MAY
STEP
THE MAST ON LAND OR
WEILE THE BOAT IS
IN
THE WATER. IT
SEEMS TO BE EASIER
ON
LAND BECAUSE THE BOAT IS WTILL.
ALSO, IT KEEPS OTHER SAILORS FROM
GZTTING IMPATIENT
WHILE
THEY WAIT FOR YOU TO MOVE OUT OF THE LAUNCH
AREA.
WALK THE MAST
AFT
AND
D3OP THE
MAST
FOOT INTO THE TABER-
NACLE LOCATED ON TOP OF THE DECK,
KEEPIl?G THE PAST
IN
CENTER LINE OF BOAT INSERT THE PIVOT BOLT AND LOCKING
NUT,
ONE CREW MEMBER SHOULD PULL ON A LINE TIED SECURELY TO
THE
FORESTAY WHILE ANOTHER PUSHES UP ON THE MAST AND
WALKS FROM THE COCKPIT FORWARD, WITH THE MAST ERECT,
ATTACH THE
FORESTAY AND FORWARD LOWER SHROUDS.
4.1.2
TUNIXG THE MAST
:
YOUR
MAST
IS
HELD
ALOFT
BY'
THE
STANDING
RIGGING ( FORESTAY,
BACKSTAY, UPPER SHROUDS, FORE AND AFT, LOWER SHROUDS). THE
TERM "TUNING" REFERS TO ADJUSTMENT OF
THR STANDING RIGGING
SO
THAT
THE
NZAST
REMAINS
"IN
COLUMN"( NOT BEN)
WHEN
UNDER
LOAD, THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE OUTLINED BELOW:
CAUTION:
THE
ALUMINUM
AND
OTHER
METAL
PARTS
CONDUCT
ELECTRICITY COMING IN CONTACT WITH
OR
NEAR AN ELECTRICAL
POWER LINE OR LIGHTNING CAN CAUSE SEVERE: INJURY OR DEATH.
STAY AWAY FROM
OVERHEAF ELECTRICAL POWER LINES WHEN SAILING
AND/OR LAUNCHING THE BOAT.
AT THE DOCK
1. AD2'UST FORESTAY AND BACKSTAY SO TYAT THE MAST IS STRAIGHT
UP
AND
DOWN. TIE A BOLT TO 6 TO 7 FOOT LONG PIECE OF
LIGHT LINE TO MAKE A QUICK
PLUMB ROB, AND TAPE THE FRFE
END OF THE LINE TO THE FRONT OF THE MAST AS
HIGH
UP AS
YOU CAN REACH. THIS
DF37ISE WILL HELP YOUR TO DETERMINE
IF THE MAST IS PERPENDICULAR OR NOT. OTHERWISE, SIGHT
YOUR MAST WITH
THE
CORNER OF A BUILDING.
2.
ADJUST THE UPPER SHROUDS SO THAT THE MAST IS STRAIGHT
UP.AND DOWN ATWARTHSHIPS. THAT IS, FROEn_ SIDE TO SIDE
AS OPPOSED TO BOW AND STERN.
3.
THE UPPER SHRCUDS SHOULD BE FIRM BUT NOT BAR TIGHT.
A
50
POUND PUSH SHOULD DEFLECT THE UPPER SHROUD AROUT
1" AT SHOLDER HEIGHT.
4. THE LOWER SHROUDS (4 OF THEM) SHOULD BE ADJUSTED SO
TFAT
THEY ARE LOOSER THAN THE UPPER SIIROUDS. WHILE AT DOCK,
THEY SHOULD HAVE NO SLACK, BUT NO TENSION EITHER. NO
LOWER SHROUD
,
WHEN PUSHED, SHOULD DEFLECT THE MAST
MORE THAN
ANY
OTHER SHROUD WHEN PUSHED EOUALLY
HARD.
IF THIS CAN'T BE ACHIEVED,
THE
UPPER SHROUDS
ARE
TOO
TIGHT. BACK OFF ONE
FALF TURN AT A TIME OF THE UPPER
SHROUD TURNBUCKLES UNTIL THE TENSION
011
THE
LOWER SHROUDS
IS BROUGHT INTO RALANCE.
112"
WlTH
112"
PIN
-
STANDARD RIG EXTRUSION
50'-2"
TALL RIG EXTRUSION
52'-2"
I-
D'
DESCRIPTION LENGTH
BACKSTAY
FORESTAY
45'-5 112" 46'-11 1 /2"
UPPERS
1
42'-10 314" 1 44-8 112"
AFT LOWERS
1
22'-101/4"
1
23'-10114"
FWD LOWERS
22'-7" 23-7"
TOPPING LIFT
39'-0
41
'-0
TOPPING LIFT TAIL
20'-0" 22'-0
JIB HALYARD
1 1 5'-0 1 1 7'-0"
MAIN HALYARD
1 1 5'-0" 1 17'-0
SPINNAKER HALYARD
105'-0" 107'-0"
3
lonc5-rfiq
@OR
qoon
a.3
45i5'1/rJ'
47-'3YC
MATERIALS
7
1/4"- 1 x19
-
12
3132"-1x19
(@ATGO)
1
1/4"
DACRON
/
1
318"
LS.
DACRON
1
3/8
LS.
DACRON
1
318''
LS.
DACRON
1
q6-/XI?
1
(I)
SYL,
(1)
NO
~m.1/4
END
NOTES:
(1)
TOLERANCE
f
112"
(2)
MEASUREMENTS FROM CENTER OF EYE TO CENTER
OF EYE OR END OF STUD.
CATALINA YACHTS INC.
2
1
200
VICTORY BLVD.
WOODLAND HILLS, CA
I
RIGGING WIRE LENGTH CHECK LIST
I
,,
CATALINA
36
OWNERS MANUAL
4.1.3
GOOSENECK
(J
I
112
DIAMETER
DLTAIL1.C.
MAINSAIL CLEW
MTA1L"W'
STEM HEAD WELDMENT
STANDARD
RIG
CATALINA YACHTS INC.
21
200
VICTORY BLVD.
WOODLAND HILLS,
CA
\
SAIL PLAN
22
CATALINA
36
OWNERS MANUAL
4.1.4
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