Catalina 310 Owner's Manual

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CATALINA 310

OWNER'S

MANUAL

Revised

5/1100

Page 4

FOREWORD

Congratulations on the acquisition of your new Catalina Yacht. All Catalina yachts are designed and built with care using quality materials to assure you

years of sailing enjoyment with a minimum of upkeep and maintenance.

Before attempting maintenance or operation of your Catalina Yacht, please read the Catalina Yachts Limited Warranty booklet and fill out the enclosed warranty registration card.

The registration card enables Catalina to inform you of developments and modifications to enhance the performance or comfort of your yacht. It is also important to be able to contact owners to comply with Coast Guard defect notification requirements.

The launching and rigging of your Catalina Yacht should be handled by experienced boat yard personnel under the direction of your authorized dealer.

The index page lists the contents of this manual. Warrantees and information regarding installed optional equipment have been included when available and applicable.

Maintaining your yacht properly can become a satisfying part of your sailing activities. A regular inspection is the best preventive maintenance. It will help keep your boat safe and in good condition while in use, and insure peace of mind when the boat is left unattended.

Take good care of your boat and take the time to learn and practice good seamanship.

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PREFACE

This manual is intended and supplied to help owners of Catalina Yachts understand their boats and answer common questions about maintenance and systems design specific to their boat.

This manual is not intended to provide sailing instructions. It is assumed the operator will consult books written for that purpose, or take sailing lessons or courses to gain knowledge necessary for the safe operation of the vessel.

The systems descriptions and illustrations in this manual apply to boats built

at the time of publication. Our policy of constant improvement necessitates that changes have been made to the boat since its introduction. Therefore, these illustrations and descriptions may not apply to boats built before the time of publication.

Owners of earlier hulls, who have questions not answered herein should consult with their local Catalina dealer, or write to, or e-mail Catalina Yachts. Please include your hull number in all correspondence.

The maintenance check lists contained within this manual are intended as guidelines for boats in normal service under typical conditions.

Climate and use will vary and may require additional or special maintenance. Consult with your local boat yard or Catalina dealer for

specific maintenance and precautions recommended for your purposes and climate.

Caution: The aluminum and other metal parts conduct electricity. Coming

in contact with or near an electrical power line or lightening can cause

severe injury or death. Stay away from overhead electrical power lines when sailing and!or launching the boat.

Page 6

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

Forward

Preface

Table of Contents

Commissioning Check List

Maintenance Check List

Specifications

Sail Plan

Spar and Rigging Maintenance

Rigging Lengths

Deck Plan

Mainsheet Arrangement

Mainsheet Traveler

Boom Yang

Solid Yang and Purchase

Halyards Arrangement

Shroud Rigging

Mast Sub Assembly

Boom

Outhaul Assembly

Page 7

Electrical 12 Volt DC

Electrical Plan, DC

Mast Light Wiring

Electrical, AC 1101115 Volt

AC Plan

115 VAC Wiring Diagram

230 VAC Wiring Diagram

Control Panel 230 VACI12 VDC

Plumbing

Plumbing Plan

Head Plumbing

Auxiliary Power

Packing Gland 55

Prop Shaft and Log Alignment Procedure 56

Shaft Alignment Illustration 57

25XP Harness to Seaward Helm Pod

Steering

Accommodation 60

Page 8

Accommodations Plan 62

LPG Plan 63

Decommissioning 64

OwnerlUser Responsibility 67

Lightning Protection 70

Commissioning Package 79

Literature and warranties for equipment, which may be supplied 80 with this manual.

Equipment and Materials Log 81

Page 9

COMMISSIONING CHECK LIST

This check list is intended as a guide to aid in the proper delivery and commissioning of a new boat to the originator purchaser. It may also be useful to review this list each time the boat is recommissioned after storage.

PRE-LAUNCH CHECK: (before stepping mast)

1. Shaft turns freely by hand, zinc collar installed if required.

2. Check intake hoses and clamps.

3. __ Check all through hull fittings.

4. Drain plugs tight, __ engine, muffler and exhaust line OK.

5. Bottom clean, paint OK.

6. Hull sides clean, gel coat OK.

7. Decks clean, gel coat OK.

8. Interior varnish OK.

9. Cushions, curtains, clean and in place.

10. Lifelines, pelican hooks and pulpits rigged and OK.

11. Spreaders taped at base end, upper shroud and intermediate wired to tip end and taped or boots installed.

12. Rigging lengths verified with check list in kit.

13. Mast and boom inspected; cotter pins, sheaves, tangs, spreaders, reef lines, outhaul,

OK.

14. Mast lights checked before mast stepped

15. Check overhead for electrical wires which may interfere with the space

required to raise the mast to its full upright position. If there are wires of any kind anywhere near the boat. Do not raise the mast. Move boat to any other location away from any wires. Contact with wires can be

fatal.

16. Masthead sheaves lubricated and rotate freely.

ELECTRICAL:

1. Lights operational:

_Running _Cabin _Bow _Anchor _Deck Light

2. Pumps Operational: _Pressure Water _Macerator Pump _Bilge Pump

3. Shore power outlet OK.

Page 10

4. __ Check battery switch #1_ #2_ OK.

5. Check battery fluid level.

6. Check battery terminal for tightness.

7. Check battery tie down straps.

PLUMBING AND INTERIOR:

1. No leaks at through hull fittings with seacocks open or closed.

2. Fill all water tanks.

3. Check all water tanks at fittings and vents for leaks.

4. Test all faucets and foot pumps for leaks.

5. Check for leaks at sink drain, sink drains OK.

6. Put water in ice box and check for proper drainage.

7. Check manual bilge pump operation, handle present.

8. Check head by flushing and pumping.

9. Check shower sump drain line.

IO. Check holding tank, pump vent and fitting.

11. Check head and pump handle for leaks.

12. Main hatch no leaks, slides freely, hatch boards fit OK.

13. Cabin windows hose tested for leaks.

14. Anchor locker drains OK, no Leaks.

15. Stove operates OK; check tank, fuel line, burner and oven.

RIGGING AND HARDWARE:

1. Mast stepped.

2. Pin, tape and tune standing rigging

3. Blocks, cars, cleats rigged OK.

4. Test all winches, winch handles present.

5. Boom vang supports boom

6. Check chainplates for leaks (*note

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ENGINE:

1. No leaks: Shaft, rudder, stuffing box, or shaft log.

2. Shaft, dimpled for set bolts at coupling; bolts wired and coupling secured.

3. With fuel tanks full, no leaks at fill pipes, overflow vent, or any fuel line

connections.

4. With coupling disconnected, engine and shaft alignment OK. Recheck

alignment OK. Recheck alignment after rigging tuned.

5. Transmission fluid level OK.

6. Engine oil level OK.

7. Check fresh water/coolant level OK.

8. Fuel valves open, bleed and prime lines for diesel engine.

9. Check that shaft is coupled and aligned to .003 maximum tolerance.

1O. Engine wire OK, connections tight.

11. Throttle control cable travel and brackets OK.

12. Clutch control cable travel and brackets OK.

13. Start engine.

14. Exhaust water flow OK.

15. No leaks in fuel lines at fittings, fuel filter, fuel pump or injectors.

16. No engine or oil leaks.

17. Idling speed set _ R.P.M.'S.

18. Check shutoff cable for diesel engine.

19. Check forward and reverse shifting.

20. Check engine instruments for operation, tachometer for calibration.

21. Run in gear for ten (10) minutes.

22. Recheck packing gland after engine stops.

23. Bilge blower and vent system OK.

24. Exhaust system, check for leaks, insulation in place. *Note (1): It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few time as some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage

to the interior wood and fmishes.

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OPERATION CHECK LIST:

1. Emergency tiller trail fitted and operational.

2. Pedestal steering operation OK, compass OK.

3. Sails and halyard OK.

4. Boat sea trailed under power and sail OK.

FINAL CHECK:

1. All accessory equipment operates OK.

2. All boat, engine, and accessory literature, and/or manuals aboard or presented to owner.

3. Warranty cards completed and mailed, owner registration card attached, owner informed of warranty responsibilities.

4. Engine warranty card completed and mailed.

5. Owner familiarized with boat, equipment and operation.

Commissioned By: _

Date:

--------------

Sold and Delivered By: _

Date:

--------------

Page 13

MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING:

1. Inspect turnbuckles, tighten as required, pinned as required.

2. Inspect clevis pins and cotter pins.

3. Visually inspect spreader tips and other areas where sails may chafe during sailing, replace tape as necessary.

4. Halyards free and not tangled.

5. Inspect mast hardware attachment bolts, tighten as required.

HULL AND DECK INSPECTION:

1. Pedestal steering OK, rudder post packing gland not weeping.

2. Bilge and compartments are dry.

3. Through

hull

valves, hoses, and clamps OK.

4. Check running lights.

ENGINE:

1. Check engine oil and fuel levels.

2. Packing gland OK, cooling water intake valve opens and closes OK.

3. Throttle shift OK.

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING:

1. Inspect chain plates, fastenings and bolts for leaks, replace sealant and tighten as necessary. (1)

2. Inspect blocks, shackles, cotter pins.

3. Check rigging tune, rigging wire condition.

4. Check turnbuckles and locking pins.

NOTE (1): It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few time as some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage to the interior wood and finishes.

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HULL AND DECK:

1. Inspect hull valves open and close freely.

2. Winches turn freely, lubricate as per manufacturer's recommendations.

3. Clean and wax gel coat surfaces as necessary.

ENGINE:

1. Check oil and fluid levels, visually check for fluid leaks.

2. Battery: Check fluid levels and tie downs.

3. Tighten all bolts and nuts to proper torque.

4. Check fuel tank fittings and hose clamps.

5. Disassemble and inspect cooling system anti-siphon

6. Check bolts.

7. Check filters.

SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING:

1. Mast head pins and sheaves turn freely.

2. Halyards and shackles are in good condition. (Refer to Rigging, Stepping the Mast)

3. Spreader tips and bases, and mast fittings OK.

4. All shroud terminations and swedged fittings OK, check for cracks or corrosion.

5. Gooseneck assembly and boom assembly OK.

6. Mast, boom and spreaders cleaned and waxed.

7. Lifelines, pelican hooks, and stanchions all OK, all pins and fittings are secure, cotter rings taped. Turnbuckles, pelican hooks and connector loops OK, screw fittings checked for thread wear.

HULL, DECK and CABIN:

1. All chainplates and through bolts tight.

2. Disassemble winches and lubricate bearings and pawls.

3. Inspect and coat electrical system connections, battery tie downs and terminal connectors to prevent corrosion.

4. Drain and flush fresh water system.

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5. Check head and anti-siphon valve in toilet.

6. Hatch gaskets and hold down fasteners OK.

7. Bottom, keel and rudder condition of anti-fouling paint OK.

8. Lifelines, stanchions and pelican hooks OK.

ENGINE:

1. Check shaft alignment, repack stuffing box if necessary.

2. Clean motor thoroughly.

3. Inspect fuel system.

4. Tune engine as per manufacturer's recommendations.

5. Exhaust system check for leaks, or deterioration, insulation in place.

Page 16

PRINCIPAL DIMENSIONS

CATALINA 310 SPECIFICATIONS

L.O.A. L.W.L.

Beam

Draft

Fin Keel

Ballast

Fin Keel

Displacement

Fin Keel

Distance-Waterline to Masthead

Headroom-Maximum

II. COMPARATIVE DATA

31' -0" (9.49m) 26' -6" (8.08m)

11'

-6" (3.5IJIl]

5'9" (1.75M) 4000

lbs,

(l8l4kg)

10300 lbs. (4672kg)

46' -9" (1 4.3m)

WiItgKeel Wing Keel Wing Keel

/ 1/

42-0""

(1.22m)

44001bs. (1996kg) 10700 lbs. (4854kg)

6'2" (l88cm)

Displacement/Length

Fin Keel:

332.26

Sail AreaIDisplacement

Fin Keel:

.0476

Wing Keel:

345.16

Wing Keel:

.0458

Theoretical Hull Speed 6.7 Knots

III. SAILS

Weight

(oz. per sq. yd.)

Main Jib

Genoa, 150% Spinnaker, cruising 135% Jib

8.00z

8.0oz.

6.0 oz.

71.5

oz.

7.0 oz.

Total w/IOO% Foretriangle

IV. TANKAGE

and

CAPACITIES

Water

Holding Fuel Ice Box Berths

Common Ratings (approx.)

ENGINE and CONTROLS Engine

Fuel Consumption (estimate) Propeller

Pedestal Steering Compass

I=42' -9" (13.Orn) J=l1' -9" (3.6m)

P=3T

-3"

(11.4m)

E=13' -0" (4.Orn)

Area 490sq. ft. (45.52 sq. M)

Forward: 35 gal (208 liters), Water Heater 20 gal (23 liters)

"Total

= 55 gal(189 liters)

17 gal (64.3 liters) 27 gal (102.1 liters) 6 cu.

ft.

(.17 cu. M) 2 Doubles PHRF = 180

MORF=28.4 IOR= 23.0

Universal MOde1(25XP Diesel. 23hp 3

cyl.,

57 c.i,ftesh water-cooled

.55 g.p.h. (2 liters) at Cruising r.p.m.

2 Blade" l3x12, 3 Blade: 13xlO Edson w132" (81 ern) dia. Destroyer Wheel Ritchie NDW200

Page 17

E: 13'- 0"

J:11'- 9"

•

Page 18

SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE:

STANDING RIGGING:

Your boat is equipped with stainless steel standing rigging, and Dacron running rigging, to give you years of trouble-free service. However, due to normal wear and tear, it is recommended that a periodic inspection be made on all fittings and wires. Turnbuckles should never be neglected and should be unscrewed from time to time in order that they do not seize. Every three months should be about right for the average sailor. A slightly bent turnbuckle shaft or broken wire in your shrouds should be replaced immediately.

Under most conditions, 1 X 19 standing rigging has a safe "working" life span of approximately five years: seven years under ideal conditions. Factors which reduce the life of the wire are environmental factors such as high humidity (Florida, the Caribbean, and Gulf States); high salinity (Great Lakes, Gulf States, or mooring near a sea wall with constant salt spray); extremes

in temperature; and industrial pollution (pulp mills, generating plants, acid rains, and smog).

High loading of the rigging as required in most racing boats also induces stress in the rigging

system. Many of us have to deal with at least one of these conditions and should consider

replacing standing rigging at the five year limit.

Unlike running rigging wire rope, which gives us clear signs that it is deteriorating by broken strands and "meat hooks", standing rigging may give no sign that failure is imminent. The usual point of failure of stay or shroud is approximately W' inside the bottom swedged threaded stud fitting which threads into the turnbuckle barrel.

Although the stud is compressed around the wire during the swedging process, salt water and pollutants work down into the tine cavities between the wire strands and the inevitable corrosive

process starts in the crevice first time the rigging becomes wet with salt water.

A common method of visually monitoring swedge fitting conditions, employed by distance racers and cruisers, is to dab a small ring of enamel paint around the joint between the wire and the swedge fitting. This will help provide a means to see if the wire is pulling out of the fitting.

Another technique used to check the condition of swedge fittings is a "dye penetrant" test. This simple test will detect any cracks which may develop in the fittings due to internal pressure from the corrosive process. Inexpensive dye tests kits usually are available from most welding supply stores. Dye tests usually are not required by weekend sailors, but may be done before an extended cruise or ocean passage if any doubt about the integrity of the rigging exists.

All stainless steel wire rope rigging will develop some rust film when new. This is normal.

The rust is caused by two factors. When wire rope is manufactured, the wire strands are fed over steel rollers during the process of twisting or laying the wire. Trace amounts of the ferrous steel from the rollers and dyes are transferred to the wire strands. As this small amount of steel rusts it causes a film on the new wire.

The second cause of the rust film on new wire is the microscopic veins of ferrous material which exist in all stainless steel. After a period of time, as the surface material veins are depleted, and the stainless steel has been cleaned several times, new rust film development will slow to a minimum.

For the average sailor, the best insurance against a rigging failure is a periodic (every six months is recommended) inspection of all rigging parts, including turnbuckles, and replacement of standing rigging as required.

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IMPORTANT: Ifill!Y wear or sign of broken strands is found on the running or standing

rigging, it is time to replace that part. Using your boat when the rigging is worn could cause the rigging to fail when you least expect it.

FITTINGS:

Marine fittings today need minimal maintenance. Deck hardware should be hosed down with freshwater after each sail in salt water. Stainless steel fittings such as pulpits and lifeline stanchions should be cleaned and waxed periodically to maintain their appearance. Winches require occasional cleaning and lubrication. Where possible, a maintenance brochure for your winches has been included in this manual. Masthead fittings, halyard sheaves, etc., should be inspected, cleaned and lubricated periodically. Keep your equipment clean of dirt and salt.

SPARS:

Like all other fittings, the mast and boom suffer from salt water, air and spray. These should be kept waxed where possible, and at least always hosed down with fresh water. Always see that the halyards are tied off away from the mast. This will eliminate slapping in the wind, and subsequent marking of the mast. Find a high pressure nozzle and shoot fresh water to the top of

the mast and spreaders. This will help keep your sails clean, too, as they rub on the mast and

spreaders.

SAIL MAINTENACE:

Your sails should be protected from chafmg. This can be done by either padding the areas that

touch the sail or by having your sailmaker attach chafe patches to the sails themselves.

You should check your sails frequently for any signs of wear and have any tears or frayed stitches repaired immediately.

Sails should never be stored in the sun because they are susceptible to decay through exposure to

too much ultraviolet light. Always keep your sails covered when they are not is use.

Sails should never be put away wet. If they are wet after sailing, leave them in loose bundles and

dry them at your first opportunity.

For most problems, such as common dirt, dried or caked salt, etc., try scrubbing the surface with a soft bristled brush and liquid detergent. Avoid harsh powder detergents and stiff brushes, as they may damage the finish or stitching. This approach should work nicely for most applications. More severe stains can be taken care of by the following:

BLOOD:

IMPORTANT: FOR WHITE SAILS ONLY

Soak the stained portion for 10 to 20 minutes in a solution of bleach (Clorox) and warm water. Generally 10 parts water to 1part bleach. Scrub and repeat if necessary. Rinse thoroughly, particularly nylon, and dry thoroughly.

OIL. GREASE TAR. WAX: Warm water, soap and elbow grease seem to be effective. On hard

stains, proprietary stain remover and dry cleaning fluids should do the trick.

Be careful to remove all fluids, as they can soften the various resinated coatings.

RUST AND METALLIC STAINS: These types of stains are very often the most frustrating and

difficult to remove. First scrub with soap and water, and apply acetone, M.E.K., or alcohol. As a last resort, you might try a diluted mixture (5%) of Oxalic soaked for 10 to 15 minutes. Hydrochloric Acid, 2 parts to 100 in warm water, will also work.

Page 20

MILDEW:

Hot soapy water with a little bleach will generally prevail. After scrubbing, leave the solution on the fabric for a few minutes and rinse thoroughly. When using a bleach, a residual chlorine smell may be present after rinsing. A 1

solution of Thiosulphate (photographers' Hypo) should remove all chlorine traces. Here again, rinse and dry well.

PAINT AND VARNISH: Acetone and M.E.K. should remove most common paint stains.

Varnish can be easily removed with alcohol. Generally speaking, use all solvents with care. Always rinse and dry thoroughly. It should be emphasized that nylon ripstop spinnaker fabrics are less durable and more

sensitive than their polyester counterparts. Bleaches and solvents can ruin

nylon ifnot used properly.

Follow the above guidelines, take your sails into your sailmaker for periodic inspection, and you will have many effective seasons of racing and cruising pleasure.

RIGGING:

STEPPING THE MAST:

1. Before stepping the mast check all standing rigging lengths against the checklist

2. Check all mast light wiring, be sure the masthead anchor light, steaming light and deck light function, the wires exiting at the base of the spar should be taped up to prevent damage when the spar is set on the step.

Prepare to step the mast in the following sequence: a) Check all rigging lengths and inspect all end fittings. b) Attach all shrouds, forestay and backstay. Tape clevis pins and spreader tips, check

all halyards and tape to mast. c) Connect and check mast wiring and mast light wiring at mast step. d) Make electrical connections at base of mast for mast lights and check circuits. e) Run halyards through turning blocks at deck.

Tune rigging at dock and when under sail.

TUNING THE MAST:

Your mast is held aloft by the standing rigging (forestay, backstay, upper shrouds, intermediate and lower shrouds). The term "tuning" refers to adjustment of the standing rigging so that the mast remains "in column" (not bent) when under load, this is accomplished by following the procedure outlined below:

AT THE DOCK:

1. Adjust fore stay and backstay so that the mast is straight up and down. Tie a bolt to a 6 to 7 foot long piece of light line to make a quick plumb bob, and tape the free end of the line to t he front of the mast as high up as you can reach. This devise will help you to determine if the mast is perpendicular or not. Otherwise, sight your mast with the comer of a building.

2. Adjust the upper shrouds so that the mast is straight up and down athwartships. That is, from side to side as opposed to bow and stem.

3. The upper shrouds should be firm but not bar tight. A 50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about I" at shoulder height.

Page 21

4. The lower shrouds (4 of them) should be adjusted so that they are looser than the upper shrouds. While at dock, they should have no slack, but no tension either. No lower shroud, when pushed, should deflect the mast more than any other shroud when pushed equally hard. If this cannot be achieved, the upper shrouds are too tight. Back off one half turn at a time on the upper shroud turnbuckles until the tension on the lower shrouds is brought into balance.

UNDER SAIL:

The object of fine tuning is to have the mast "in column" (not bent fore or aft or athwartships) when sailing in conditions typical for your area. This is accomplished through adjustments to the lower shroud turnbuckles. Here are some points to look for:

I. When sailing on port tack, sight up the mast from the base. If the middle (where the

spreaders are) is sagging to leeward, take up equally on both port lower shrouds until the mast is in "in column". Repeat this procedure on starboard tack.

2. If, when sighting up the mast while on port tack, the middle is bent forward (but not to leeward) take up a turn on the port aft lower shroud and let out a turn on the port forward lower shroud turnbuckle. Reverse these adjustments if the middle of the mast is aft of the "in column" position.

3. If a perfectly straight mast is not obtained, the mast head (top) may be curved aft and to leeward. The mast head should never be "hooked" forward nor to weather.

All rigging wire used on yachts has a tendency to stretch, especially on a new yacht and after you have sailed in heavier wind than you are normally familiar with. Therefore, you should periodically check the tension on the shrouds and stays, tightening them up if it is required. Rigging, as well as tuning, becomes all too important when setting up the mast. A knowledgeable person should oversee the rigging and tuning so as to eliminate the possibility of an eccentric load which might occur with an improperly loaded shroud. Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the shrouds and a further gradual stretch of the wire over the first ~ few hard outings.

MAINSAIL REEFING:

Reefmg should always be done before it becomes necessary. Some sailors use the rule of thumb that the thought of reefing occurs to you, it is time to reef. Sailing at extreme angles of heel, 25 degrees or more, is not efficient, fast or comfortable.

Your Catalina is equipped with single line reefmg, for reefing the mainsail. The system consists of a line tied around the boom and reeved through the cringles, internal boom sheaves, and

blocks as shown in the illustration. A second reef line may be installed in a like manner, but to the opposite side of the boom, and led to the starboard side of the cockpit.

Tie a loop of line around the main boom with a bowline, through the cringles at the first reef and

into the boom on the starboard sheave. The line exists the starboard forward sheave and through the cringle in the sail at the first reef. Lead the line to the turning block at the base of the mast, through the organizer on the deck and through the sheet stopper to the winch on the port side.

REEFING PROCEDURE:

1. Take up the slack in the main boom topping lift.

2. East the mainsheet.

Page 22

3. Release the main halyard on the starboard side of the cockpit, to a predetermined point. (marking the halyard with ink or a colored thread into the line is helpful.) Recleat the halyard after lowering.

4. Pull the luff and leach cringles down to the boom by pulling the reefing line through the blocks with the port cockpit winch and cleat off. .

5. Trim in the mainsheet.

6. Tie off remaining reef points with lines around boom.

7. Snug up the main halyard as required to flatten out the mainsail.

8. Ease the topping lift.

Page 23

)

42'-,"

RIGGERS CHECK LIST

~ ~

STANDARD

TOP FIniNG

BOTTOM FIniNG

--,l

8' - 10"

BACKSTAY

\ (Hull ,.,

fORESTAY (Scho.t8r 2000' end obover--

0'-11"

m 1/2" PIN

1/2"

sruo

UPPER SHROUDS

0'-9 1/4"

5/8"

1/2"

sruo

INTERMEDIATESHROUDS

0'-10 3/4"

1/2"

sruo

AfT LOWER SHROUDS -

O' - 13 1/4

m 1/2"

sruo

FWO.LOWER SHROUDS--

- 9

3/4'

m 1/2"

sruo

RUNNING RIGGING

STANDING RIGGING

DESCRIPTION MATERIAL LENGTH QTY.

DESCRIPTION

MATERIAL

LENGTH

QTY.

TOPPING LIfT TAIL

5/16" DACRON

115'-0"

MAiNSHEET

7/16" DACRON

100' 0"

BACKSTAY

1/4-" WIRE lx19 33'-0'

GENOA SHEET

7/16' DACRON

50' O·

BACKSTAY BRIDLE 1/4-' WIRE lx19

12'-7"

TRAVELER CONTROL LINES

5/16' DACRON

30' 0"

SPINNAKER SHEETS

7/16" DACRON

60' O·

FORESTAY (Schaefer 2000)

5/16" WIRE lx19 42' 9 1/2' 1

VANG LINE

3/8' DACRON

25' 0"

UPPER SHROUDS

5/16" WIRE lx19

41'-3"

FIRST REEF - FORWARD LINE

5/16" DACRON

50' 0"

INTERMEDIATE SHROUDS

1/ ••.• WIRE lx19

28·- ••.•

AfT LOWER SHROUDS 1/4-" WIRE lx19 14'-7"

SECOND REEF - SINGLE LINE

3/8' DACRON

70' 0"

FWD LOWER SHROUDS

1/4' WIRE lx19

14-'-3 1/2"

Bridle to

be eye to 3/8'

stud

HALYARDS

DESCRIPTION

MATERIAL LENGTH QTY.

LENGTH

MAINSAIL HALYARD

3/8' LOW STRETCH

115'-0"

JIB HALYARD 3/8' LOW STRETCH 115'-0"

SPINNAKER HALYARD

3/8" LOW STRETCH

115'-0·

@@(@/liJ!iD@IYachts

21200

VICTORY BLVD.

WOODLAND HILLS. CA.

91367 -(818)884 7700

SCAlE:

NONE

APPROVED:

DRAWN BY

DATE·:

3.15.99

FILE:

31340010

DENNISON

TITlE:

RIGGING

LENGTH

ORIGINAL ISSUE

2.8.99

BOAT: DRAWING NUMBER

REV.N°

DESCRIPTION

DATE

CATALINA

310

310-34001-0

Page 24

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Page 25

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(2) SINGLE BLOCKS

CABIN WINCH

SINGLEBLOCK)

J J

CLAMCLEAT, STBD

STAND

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Page 26

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CONTROL

LINE

TRAVELER

BAR

310 MAINSHEET TRAVELER

Page 27

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BOOM

FIDDLE BLOCK W/ BECKET ~

<»

II \ I

MAST

SHACKLES TO LARGE "u" ~

<»

COLLAR BOLT ON MAST COLLAR - LINE LEADS AFT TO COCKPIT

PIVOTING TANG

FIDDLE BLOCK ,/ "'-...~ ~"'-... "'-...'" AT MAST BASE

3/8" DACRON LINE SUPPLIED

W/ VANG

FIDDLE BLOCK SHACKLES ~~ "'-...~

MAST

TO EYE SPLICE ON WIRE --~

@!ff)f]!ff)/l/l[j[}!llj/');fJChts

310 BOOM VANG

__________ ~I____

Page 28

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FREE FLOATING BLOCK ON END OF SOLID VANG PURCHASE

VANG LINE LED TO COCKPIT SEE HALYARD/ DECK

ARRANGEMENT DWG. ~

30' x 3/8" Dacron

- ----

PURCHASE BLOCK ATTATCHES TO VANG TANG ON MAST

SOLID VANG LINE DEAD ENDS ON EYE

13'x3/8" Dacron

j---MAST

-r--,---I_- SOLI0 VANG W/ INTERNAL SPRING

NOTES

1. ATTATCHMENT TANGS ON MAST AND BOOM NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY OF RIGGING.

UPPER&LOWER SHIVS ARE INTEGRAL IN SOLID VANG

310 SOLID VANG

PURCHASE

Page 29

)

(4) SINGLE

STOPPERS

<>:

I ; ; ~"-.-~ , ~

JIB HALYARD NO.2 (OR SPINNAKER HALYAR

~ "'~%fV

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310 HALYARDS ARRANGEMENT

Page 30

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fI!

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YACHTS. 21200

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310 SHROUD RIGGING

INTERMEO

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Page 31

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7.19.99

Page 32

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UPPER SHROUDS

-9!F-~-,

INTERMEDIATE SHROUDS

UPPER SPREADERS

LOWER SHROUDS

LOWER SPREADERS

SPREADERS TIP DETAIL

SEIZING WIRE HOLES

HALYARD EXIT LOCATION

SCALE: NONE

PORT JIB

STARBOARD.JIB (OPL)

MAST WIRING COLOR CODE

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7.19.99

Page 33

a..

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Page 34

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MINI-BLOCK

BECKET

LONG D-SHACKLE

PLASTIC

COATED WIRE

SWIVEL COUPLER

CLEAT

1/4" DACRON LINE

@fiJ(}fiJlJilfii)'1I

Yachts

310 OUTHAUL ASSEMBLt.6

Page 35

ELECTRICAL DC 12 VOLT:

BATTERIES:

Your electrical system is powered by 2 marine grade, 12 volt, deep cycle batteries. Attention should be given to maintaining the proper level of distilled water. Do not overfill. The batteries are located under the settee, forward of the galley.

The batteries are provided with a tie down to prevent tipping over at extreme angles of heel. Be sure these tie downs are fastened securely.

With proper care, the batteries installed in your Catalina will provide long .and satisfactory service. Proper care is not difficult if a few basic points are kept in mind.

Your batteries should be checked periodically for any cracks or breaks in the case or cover and any cracks in the sealing compound. If there is any damage, the battery should be replaces at once.

WARNING:

The electrolyte in a battery is a solution of sulfuric acid. If any should enter the eyes, rinse immediately with large amounts of fresh water and seek medical attention. Electrolyte spilled on skin should be rinsed well with fresh water also. Even a small amount of electrolyte spilled on clothing will destroy the clothing.

ELECTROLYTE LEVEL:

The electrolyte level in a battery should never be allowed to fall low enough to expose the plates. This not only results in a loss of battery capacity while the battery is low, but will cause hardening of the active material on the battery plates. This will result in a permanent loss of battery capacity.

CAUTION: Use only pure distilled water to replenish electrolyte levels. The water from

many city water supply systems is unsatisfactory for battery use.

CHARGING THE BATTERY:

Before adding water, a hydrometer reading of the battery should be taken. If the reading shows the battery to be above 1.225 specific gravity, the battery has a sufficient charge. If the reading is below 1.225, the battery should be removed for bench charge.

Once charged, the battery should have a specific gravity of at least 1.260. If this cannot be reached, the battery should be inspected by a battery supplier.

The batteries should be checked often to ensure that they do not run down. Check that all battery cells keep an even fluid level and that the fluid is about 3/8" above the top of the separators.

If one or two cells have lower fluid levels, it is a good indicator that something is wrong with the battery, and it should be checked.

DISCHARGED STATE:

Leaving a battery in a discharged state for any length of time can also result in a permanent loss of capacity for the battery. Since it will freeze at relatively low temperatures, leaving it in the cold weather can destroy the battery.

Page 36

STOCK CHARGING Proper Instructions for Wet or Dry Batteries in Stock

Wet Batteries

1. Wet Batteries will discharge over a period of time sitting on the shelf. Because of this they need to be given a periodic charge to bring them back to full charge.

2. These wet batteries would be given a charge every: (see charging section) :

a. 9-12 Months-Calcium Automotive and Group 31. b. 5-7 Months-Low Antimony, Hybrid and Barium. c. 3-4 Months-Low Antimony Commercial, Specialty and Automotive Batteries.

Note: In hot climates or warm storage areas, a battery's state of charge

should be checked more often.

3. Periodic checks on batteries in stock should be made to assure that batteries are fully charged.

4. They all should be given a slow charge (see charging section) until the hydrometer reaches 1.250 or higher in all cells. The reason for the slow

charge is because batteries should be recharged in the same manner they were

discharged-slowly, over a period of time, to assure that they are sufficiently

pharged.

As batteries discharge, sulfation begins to set in. This sulfation needs to be broken down slowly, so it's broken off completely. A fast charge will not

adequately penetrate the sulfated plates, the battery only receives a surface charge. At the first draw upon the battery, the surface charge is removed and the battery is back to its previous state-of-charge (surface charge is simply a charge on the Surface of the plates, not having penetrated the plates) .

Dry Batteries

When preparing dry batteries for activation to be sod as wet, the following steps need to be observed.

1. Fill each cell to the bottom of the vent well with electrolyte only.

2. Vent caps must be firmly in place before charging. This is to prevent any possible chances for explosion (when charging). If possible, place a damp cloth across top of battery vent caps, to also aid in preventing the chance of ~ny explosion.

3. Let,the batteries set for at least 15 minutes to allow the electrolyte to soak

in to the plates.

4. Charge each batterY at the following rates:

a. 12 Volt Battery: 30-40 Amps

b. 6 Volt Battery: 60-70 Amps

Charge until hydrometer reading is 1.250 or higher (see charging section) .

5. After sufficient charge cycle or cycles have been completed, check the dlectrolyte level. If necessary re-fill to the bottom of the vent well

(electrolyte only) .

32a

Page 37

CLEAN CONNECTIONS:

Keep battery connections clean and tight. A cupful of strong baking soda solution and a toothbrush will clean corrosion from the terminals and neutralize any spilled acid (do not allow any of the solution to enter the battery cells). A coating of petroleum jelly on the battery terminals will inhibit corrosion.

MAIN BATTERY SWITCH:

The circulator battery switch has the markings 1,2 and "ALL" as well as "OFF". You can selectively charge the battery with the engine alternator. Many experienced sailors use battery # 1 for electrical lighting needs and keep #2 in reserve for starting the engine.

When the engine is running, never select the "OFF" position or the alternator diodes will be burned out.

If both batteries are of equal charge, keep the selector switch on "ALL" position, and use "ALL" to start the engine if both batteries are low.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:

The Catalina is equipped with a standard 12-volt DC system and 110-115 volt AC system. The wiring is run to prevent chaffing or contact with water, where possible, and is supported as needed. We recommend that you check all the connections at least once a year for corrosion, loose fittings, etc.

DC - 12 VOLT SYSTEM:

The DC system is powered by two deep cycle batteries located under the settee seat forward of the head.

MAIN DC CIRCUIT BREAKER:

Operating switches for lights and accessories are located on the main switch panel. The main circuit breaker will automatically trip to the OFF position in the event of an overload to the circuit. If the breaker trips to OFF, the cause should be determined and any necessary repairs should be made before repositioning the circuit breaker switch to ON.

Before purchasing any electrical accessories for your boat, ensure that they are compatible to a negative ground system.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the batteries and disconnect AC shore power cord before

opening the panel, or severe injuries may result.

All wires, terminals and connections should be checked periodically for loose connections or corrosions which could cause high resistance, electrical sparks or fires. The engine accessory wiring should also be checked at this time.

NAVIGATION LIGHTS:

Navigation lights should be used in accordance with the rules and regulations of the waters in which you intend to sail.

Page 38

Generally, navigation lights should be used from dusk to dawn in all weather conditions. It is advisable to use the navigation lights any time visibility is poor. Your Catalina Yacht is equipped with the following navigation lights:

a) Red and Green 112.50combination running lights mounted on the bow

pulpit.

b) White 1350stem running light mounted on the stem pulpit.

c) White 2250steaming light mounted on the mast.

d) White 3600anchor light mounted on the masthead.

(a) and (b) are wired to the running light switch on the panel. (2) is wired to the steaming light

switch, and (d) is wired to the anchor light switch.

When underway by sail, the bow running light and stem running light must be used. When underway by power, the steaming light, bow and stem running lights must be on. At anchor, the anchor light should be on, the running (a) and (b) and steaming (2)should be off.

Page 39

)

REV

DESCRIPTION

UPDATED UPON ARRWAL. ATfLPLANT

NOTES: (UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED)

ill

MULTIPLE CONDUCTOR CABLE.

mAC WIRING SHOWN ON DWG. 310-73001,

115VAC WIRING DIAGRAM W/CHARGER

SECURED TO BOTTOM SURFACE OF DECK.

SEE DWG #310-72004, PWR DIST, 12VDC

SEE DWG #310-72003, WIRING, MAST

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CATALINA 310

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WINDLASS BREAKER 80 AMP

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PANEL

)

DATE

APPROVAL

3/2~!OO

Page 40

)

BATTERY GROUNDS

_.,. ~~·~~ol

BLACK 4 B3

ENGINE RED 0&

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U T

LMNiilASS

I SERVicE:

BATTERY 1- RED 0

••••

BREAKER. DISTRIBUTION PANEL. 20A

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BREAKER. OISTRIBUTION PANEl. 251.

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COMPONENTS, SERVICE PANELS ,

---------------_._--_._-------------

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VOLTMETER. 8-18 VOLTS

DESCRIPTION

BUS BAR

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LEAD

WIRE

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NOTES: (UNLESS OTHERWISESPECIFIED)

ill

MULTIPLE CONDUCTOR CABLE.

mAC WIRING SHOWN ON DWG. 310-73001.

115VAC WIRING DIAGRAM W/CHARGER

SECURED TO BonOM SURFACE OF DECK,

ill

SEE OWG #310-72004, PWR OIST. 12VDC

SEE OWG #310-72003. WIRING, MAST

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310 ELECTRICAL PLAN, DC

2/2

Page 41

)

STEAMING LIGHT

w/2 Stud terminals

GREEN

BLUE (jump to Steaming Ground terminal) -

BLUE +

CONNECTOR

~ WHiTt (Deck)

2 CONDUCTOR CABLE

3 CONDUCTOR CABLE

GREEN (Steaming)

MAST/

WHITE (Deck)

4 CONDUCTOR CABLE

CONNECT WIRES AS

SHOWN IN DOTTED LINES

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310 MAST LIGHT WIRING

Page 42

ELECTRICAL AC -110-115 VOLT SYSTEM:

The IIOV AC power system depends upon the boat being connected to llOV-30 amp shore power connector. The factory option offers a 50' shore power cable which should be plugged into the llOV inlet on he boat (located on the transom) and into the shore power connector on the

dock.

IMPORTANT: TO MINIMIZE SHOCK AND FIRE HAZARDS:

1. Turn off the boat's shore connection switch before connecting or disconnecting the shore power cable.

2. Connect the shore power cable at the boat first.

3. If the polarity warning indicator is activated, disconnect the cable immediately.

4. Disconnect the shore power cable at the shore outlet first.

5. Close the shore power inlet cover tightly.

6. DO NOT ALTER THE SHORE POWER CABLE CONNECTORS IN ANY WAY. SEVERE INJURY MAY OCCUR.

Care should be taken to support the shore power cable at both ends to allow sufficient slack to avoid pulling. Remember to allow for the tide.

The master breaker switch is 30 amp, two pole type, located in the port stem locker. There are five (5) IIOV outlets. Be certain that all 110 volt appliances, other than lamps, have an adequate

grounding connector. Wet feet or moist atmosphere increases the potential shock hazard.

There is a reverse polarity indicator on the panel. With all switches off, attach the power cable to the inlet. Next, attach the power cable to the dock outlet. If the reverse polarity light comes on, DISCONNECT THE CORD IMMEDIATELY! This indicates a reverse polarity situation which

is very dangerous.

WARNING:

Do not open the electrical panel for any purpose with the shore power cable connected to the dock. 110 volt wiring is exposed when the panel is open. Contact with the 110 volt wiring can cause electrocution. Electricity is dangerous. Even when safety devices are present, handle with care and use reasonable caution.

GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTER:

G.F.I. receptacles are designed to provide protection against electrical shock hazards due to

line-to-ground faults. Although the G.F.I. receptacle does not limit the magnitude ofthe fault

current, and therefore cannot prevent electrical shock, it does limit the duration of the shock to

a period considered safe for normal healthy persons. G.F.I. receptacles will provide protection

against ground faults only. They will not protect against overload or short circuits. There is no

known device that will guard against the electric shock hazard resulting from contact with both the "hot" and neutral wires of the electrical circuit.

The llOV AC outlets in the Catalina Yacht are protected by the G.F.I. receptacle. If there is a

power failure which does not affect the fuse or breaker serving these outlets, unplug all cord-

Page 43

connected appliances from the protected outlets, unplug all cord-connected appliances from the protected outlets and restore power by pressing the red RESET button on the receptacle. Push the RESET back in and reconnect the appliances one at a time. Any defective appliance will trip the button and should be repaired at once.

If the appliances are all disconnected, and the RESET button will not stay in, cal a qualified electrician. If the RESET button does not pop out when the blue TEST button is pressed, PROTECTION IS LOST. Do not use any of the outlets and call a qualified electrician immediately.

IMPORTANT: Your Ground Fault Interrupter Circuit should be tested regularly.

Use the following steps:

1. Push the blue TEST button. The red RESET button should pop out. Power is now out at that outlet indicating that the circuit is operating properly.

2. If the button does not pop out when testing, do not use that outlet. Protection is lost and a qualified electrician should be called.

3. To restore power, push the RESET button.

PREVENT ATIVE MAINTENANCE:

This consists of periodic inspection and protection against any damage created by the elements. Electrical systems are adversely affected by moisture and a salt-air environment.

The system can be protected by the application of aerosol sprays such as WD-40 or CRe. All

wire harnesses and connections should be checked periodically to ensure that fastenings are

secured and that everything is clean with no sign of damage or corrosion. It is extremely important that all connections be kept clean.

WARNING:

Do not perform any maintenance or repair on a live circuit. Do not turn the main DC switch off while the engine is running. This could cause damage to the alternator.

Page 44

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UNUSED POSITIVE TERMINALS MUST BE CONNECTED TO ACTIVE TERMINAL PER MlllNUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS.

FUSE MUST MATCH CHARGER OUTPUT AND BE INSTALLED WITHIN7"OF TERMINAL.

FUSE. 20A

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SERVICE PANEL. AC/DC

REF

ITEM I CAT PT ['10

DESCRIPTION

QTY

PARTS LIST

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Yacht

310 AC PLAN