Castle System Drill
Model LB-23
Operator Manual
Castle, Inc.
Petaluma, CA
800-282-8338
U.S. Patent No.
5,676,498
Table of Contents
Safety Notification…………………... Page 1
Machine Parts Inventory..……………. Page 2
Machine Requirements……………… Page 2
Setting Up…………………………… Page 3-4
Operating Instructions……………… Page 5
Machine Adjustments………………. Page 6-14
Definition and Description of Parts… Page 15-16
Maintenance ……………………….. Page 17-18
Troubleshooting……………………. Page 19-23
Warranty…………………………… Page 24
DO NOT OPERATE THIS
MACHINE UNTIL YOU HAVE
READ THIS MANUAL
COMPLETELY.
Safety Notification
WARNING: The Castle Model LB-23 System
Drill was designed with operator safety as a
priority. This machine was carefully
prepared for shipment at our factory. Upon
receipt of this machine, inspect for shipping
damage. Report any damage immediately to
the freight company, your Castle dealer and
to Castle, Inc. DO NOT attempt to operate
this machine if you observe any physical
damage. Contact Castle, Inc. at 800-282-8338
for instructions.
1
Inventory
With your Castle machine you should have received the following:
Warranty Card (Please fill out & mail to Castle, Inc.
to activate warranty)
LB-23 Operator Manual
One bottle LB Oil
One 3/32 T-Handle Allen Wrench
Left and Right Side Stop Assemblies
Machine Requirements
Electricity: 110V
Air Supply: 80 PSI minimum, 150 PSI maximum
2
Setting Up Your LB-23
Your Castle LB-23 system drill was set up and tested for proper operation at the
factory. It is normal to find a small amount of sawdust residue in the machine
from this process.
Begin set-up by unwrapping and installing the side stop extensions for
your machine. On either side of the yellow guard you will find two hex
head bolts with T-nuts. Loosen these bolts and slide the side stops on.
The yellow stop on the side-stop should point to the drill bits.
Tighten the hex heads.
Next, hook up the air to the machine. On the right side of the machine
you will find two regulators and two brass fittings.
The brass fitting towards the rear is the air inlet. You will want to attach
air to the machine at this inlet. Caution: do not over tighten
coupler to fitting.
3
The fitting towards the front comes with a plug in it; if you want to attach
an air tool to the machine you can use this port.
For optimal performance of your LB-23 plug your motor directly into the
wall. The use of an extension cord and/or having the machine at the end
of a circuit may impede the performance of the machine.
With the air hooked up to your machine and the power turned off,
position the foot pedal in such a way it is comfortable for the operator.
Take a few minutes to get familiar with how it operates.
Pressing halfway down on the pedal will bring the index pins down and
full depression will bring the head down.
Next, cycle the machine with the motor on and the stock in place.
4
Operating Instructions
Always use eye protection when operating power
equipment.
Turn on the motor at the switch mounted on the motor facing the front of
the machine.
The foot pedal operates in two stages. Pressing down halfway brings the
index pins down. Full depression of the pedal brings down the head to
begin boring.
If you are drilling an upper, the two drop gauges with handles on the
right should be down.
Push your board up against the first drop gauge and side stop and then
press the foot pedal down to begin the cut.
To end the cycle, release the foot pedal.
Next, push the first drop gauge up and slide the board back against the
second drop gauge. Remember to keep the board pressed against the side
stop. Cycle the machine. Release the foot pedal and the upper is
completed.
To do a lower, leave the second drop gauge up and follow the same
process as the upper.
5
Machine Adjustments
The Castle model LB-23 is designed for use in a wide
variety of materials. You will find that the machine
performs well in hardwoods, softwoods, melamine,
particleboard and MDF. The machine will work on
materials of thickness from ½” to 1 ¾”.
Collet Adjustment
There are two collets per spindle, making 46 collets per head. The collet
on the bottom of the spindle is used to lock the drill bit into the spindle
assembly.
The upper collet is used to hold the entire assembly to the head.
To get the best results the upper shaft collar should be pushed as close to
the snap ring as possible, and then tightened.
Cycle Time Adjustment
Two adjustments control the amount of time that the cutting cycle takes to
complete:
The air pressure to the head is set at the primary regulator closest to the
rear of the machine.
The first valve activated in the foot switch is supplied with air from the
secondary regulator, which is the one closest to the front of the machine.
This, in turn, supplies air to the index pins.
The primary regulator should be set at 80 to 85 PSI.
6
Setting internal pressure for the head can be achieved by turning the
primary regulator counter-clockwise until the knob stops.
Next, mark the knob of the regulator so that you have a reference point to
start from.
Using the reference point you just drew, turn the regulator 5 ½ to 6 ½
turns to reach a sufficient air pressure. (Approximately 80 to 85 PSI)
The foot switch can also effect the cycle time of the machine. The valve
should be fully closed when the pedal is not depressed. If the valve is
left partially open then the pressure to the air bladder will need longer to
build up, thus adding time to the cycle. Likewise, if pressing the foot
pedal doesn’t fully open up the valve then full pressure will not be
reached either.
This can be checked by partially dismantling the foot switch and
checking the foot switch spring against the photo below to make sure the
part is in good condition. It should retain the illustrated shape when not
under pressure.
Please note that it is not necessary to dismantle the foot switch to
the point illustrated here in order to view the spring.
7
Adjusting Secondary Regulator
The secondary regulator is the one towards the front of the machine and controls
the pressure delivered to the index pins. It is called the secondary regulator.
While there is no gauge to check the internal pressure driving the machine, there
is an easy way to reset the regulator to factory settings.
Turn the secondary regulator knob all the way to the left, counter-
clockwise so that it is completely closed.
With the knob all the way to the left, push both of the index pins down
manually.
Slowly turn the secondary regulator back up to the right until BOTH
index pins just go up.
At the point when both pins go up, turn the regulator knob a half turn
further to set.
To decrease the force with which the index pins come down, turn the
regulator to the right ¼ turn at a time, until the desired pressure is
reached.
8
Adjusting the Indexing Pins
If it appears that the pins are out of alignment, you can straighten them out by
drilling a test board and realigning a Pin in one of the drilled holes. Follow the
testing procedure to confirm that they are out of alignment.
Use a scrap of at least two feet in length and cut a set of holes with the
front Drop Gauge down.
Slide the board over so that either the left or right Index Pin can enter one
of the holes that you just drilled.
Cycle the machine, insuring that the Index Pin is firmly in the hole before
bringing the head down.
When drilling, the bits should re-enter the holes without chipping out the edges or
kicking the board out. If either of these things happens then the Index Pins need to
be re-calibrated.
To adjust an Index Pin loosen the two bolts holding the Index Pin bracket
in place.
Use a piece of board to cut a full row of holes in. Make sure that there
isn't much sawdust remaining in the holes.
Slide the board over so that the Index Pin will enter the last hole, but still
leave the majority of holes underneath the head.
Bring the head down into the previous holes while watching very closely
that the bits are entering in the exact center.
While the head is down place the Index Pin into the hole (if not already
there), and tighten the nuts on the bracket.
9
Checking the tension on the belt
If the head significantly slows down or stops while you are drilling, then you may
need to check the tension on your belt.
This is done by simply reaching in the rear of the machine (with the
power and air off), and attempting to squeeze the two side of the belt
together.
There should be NO MORE than ¾” of deflection in the belt when you
squeeze it together strongly.
If there is more than 1” of deflection when you squeeze the belt together
then the belt needs to be tightened.
Adjusting the tension on the belt
You will need another person to complete these steps.
Using a wrench, LOOSEN the four 5/16 carriage bolts that hold the
motor and motor bracket in place. DO NOT REMOVE these bolts.
Use a 2x4 as a wedge and a 4x4 as a fulcrum.
10
Stand in front of the machine and pull the 2x4 towards your body in
order to create enough tension on the belt. Do this while someone else
tightens the four carriage bolts.
Once the bolts are tight, test the belt tension through the rear of the
machine again and drill a set of test holes.
Repeat these steps, if necessary, until there is enough tension on the belt
per the previous adjustment description
Table Top Adjustment
The tabletop is adjustable in relation to the guard frame and head. There should
be between a 1/8 " and a ¼ " gap with wood in place. If it is greater then this, the
table needs to be adjusted in order for a proper depth hole to be cut.
Locate and LOOSEN the three brackets that lock the table into position.
There is one bracket in front and one on each side underneath the table.
The brackets are held in place by 9/16" hex head nuts.
11
Once the table is loose, locate the four leveling bolts. There are two on
each side of the machine on the underside of the table.
Adjust the bolts up or down and check that the table is level and has the
appropriate clearance from the guard.
It is important to maintain the table in the same level position it was in
before the adjustment.
To do this, the leveling bolts must be turned the SAME NUMBER OF
TURNS AS ONE ANOTHER. It may be helpful to mark one face of the
hex head, to use as a reference point as the bolt turns.
Retighten the bracket nuts and drill a set of test holes to make sure that
the table stayed level.
Adjusting the Wing Table
The wing tables fold out on either side of the tabletop to extend the work
surface. The adjustment for the wing table is inside the body of the machine.
Another person will be needed for this adjustment.
Open the front door of the machine.
Locate the nuts that secure the wing table arm to the case side.
12
Inside machine view
Using a 9/16" wrench, LOOSEN the nuts while someone else holds the
wing table in the desired position.
Once the proper position has been achieved, tighten down the nuts.
Repeat for the other side.
Adjusting the depth of the head
The travel limiter controls how far down the head can move towards the tabletop
and into the stock. If your holes are not deep enough or they are too deep you
may need to make an adjustment to the Travel Limiter bolt.
Locate the 1/2" hole just left of center in the bit cover on the top of the
machine. You'll know you have the right hole because when you look in
it there will be a large Philips head screw inside.
13
Using a large Philips head screwdriver adjust the screw through the hole
by a 1/2 turn at a time. The adjustments can be made with the machine
on or off, but should be made with the drill head UP.
To drill deeper turn the screw counter-clockwise 1/2 turn at a time. To
drill to less depth turn the screw clockwise 1/2 turn at a time.
If a loud rattling or clanking sound can be heard when the head is down,
then the Travel Limiter bolt has been adjusted to drill too deeply and
should be backed off JUST until the sound stops.
If this adjustment has already been made or can’t be adjusted any further,
then you may need to raise the tabletop to drill deeper.
14
Description of Parts
The Foot Control
Is a dual action foot switch comprised of two air valves that will
first activate the indexing cylinders and with increased pressure,
will drop the drilling head.
Air Pressure Regulators
Are located on the right side of the machine. The rear regulator
will regulate how fast the drilling head will descend and the
front regulator will adjust how much force the indexing pins
exert. The rear regulator is factory set at 6 turns from the fully
off and the front is factory set at 5 turns from fully off.
Drive Link Belt
The drive link belt stretches from the motor pulley to the main
drive pulley. Its job is to transfer the torque of the motor to the
bits in the head.
Table Leveling Bolts
Located under the worktable are four bolts that raise from the
machine case. These bolts support and allow for easy
adjustment of the height of the tabletop.
Drop Gauges
The front set of the drop gauges factory set to 37mm. The drop
gauges can be removed and repositioned.
LB-23 Motor
The LB-23 uses a 1 HP Baldor Motor to do the work of turning
the head. It uses 120V power and is turned on by the on/off
switch located on the front.
15
Indexing Pins
The indexing pins are used after the first set of holes has been
cut and the next set need to be aligned with the previous cut.
Plunger Locks
The Plunger Locks are located on either side of the yellow
guard. They lock the yellow guard into place.
Side Stops
These are located on the right and left side of the machine.
They slide right or left to set the beginning hole position. The
extensions are shipped inside the machine and are put into place
during set-up.
Bits
The patented tooling for the LB-23 is designed to give
maximum performance for an extended period of time.
Typically, all of the bits will need to be replaced at the same
time but occasionally individual bits will become damaged and
need replacement
16
Maintenance
Head Lubrication
The head should be oiled every 30 to 40 hours of usage. The head, once it is
broken in beyond its initial start-up, should run very quietly with no loud metallic
racket or grinding.
In order to maintain the machine in good working order, the head should
never be run dry. The head uses oil impregnated bushings that need to
stay oiled for optimal performance.
The oil that is used in lubricating this machine consists of two
ingredients: Non-Detergent, 30 WT Motor Oil and Slick 50. The two are
mixed at a ratio of 4:1 respectively.
Loosen the two plastic, tri-armed knobs that hold down the bit cover on
top of the machine. Remove the bit cover by lifting and sliding it to your
right simultaneously.
Locate the 4 lubrication holes in the top of the head. These may be partly
covered by the spindle housings, requiring a slight repositioning of the
housings
17
Add 10 to 15 drops of oil to each of the holes. The oil is picked up by the
wick and distributed evenly among the spindles
Locate the Drive Link Pins and add 1 or 2 drops of oil to each. The pins
can be oiled once every 30 hours of usage. However, this should only be
done if the head is in good adjustment, but still has a metallic rattle.
After the oil is added, the machine should be left running for AT LEAST
30 minutes and then all excess oil wiped off. If the clean up of the oil is
not thorough enough, the machine will throw oil on the stock.
Bit Inspection
Look over and inspect all of the bits while carrying out the lubrication
process. Look for chips in the bits and replace if necessary.
18
Troubleshooting
Head is Releasing too Slowly
The SQE valve on the inside of the frame can become clogged with debris. This
will keep the head from returning to a neutral position at the end of the cycle.
Locate the SQE by looking through the rear of the machine.
It is attached to a brass elbow on one side which has the thickest of the
hoses running into it.
The SQE itself is a 1.5" aluminum fixture molded into a hex on one side.
Attached to the SQE, opposite the brass elbow, is a white, plastic
muffler. Remove this muffler by hand and cycle the machine a few times
If this doesn't clear out the SQE you will need to remove it and clean it
more thoroughly with alcohol and compressed air or you will need to
replace it.
If the SQE needs to be removed for replacement you need to begin by first
removing the rear stop.
Make sure the machine power is off and the air is disconnected.
Locate the Fixed Rear Stop. It is held in place by two 7/16" nylock nuts
on the underside of the stop.
19
Remove the stop, but DO NOT adjust the Rear Stop bolts sticking out of
the rear of the machine that butt up against the rear stop.
Remove the drill cover on the top of the machine by loosening the three-
pronged knobs.
Locate the two 1/2" nylock nuts that secure the air bar that runs across
the top of the air bladder.
Use a pointed file or a scribe to mark a reference line across the nylock
nuts and the bolts they are attached to. This line will be used as a
reference mark for reassembling the air bladder assembly.
20
After scribing a clear line, use an open or boxend 1/2" wrench to remove
the two nylock nuts. VERY IMPORTANT: Count the number of turns
from the scribed reference lines it takes to remove the nuts. When
reassembling, this count will be used to recalibrate the air bladder back to
the original setting.
Remove the nylock nuts, but be careful to keep them in a way that they
do not get mixed up. It's important that the nuts go back on the bolts they
came off of.
With the nylock nuts removed, you can lift the air bar off of the air
bladder enough that it clears the drill frame.
Turn the air bladder and the air bar counter-clockwise until you hear the
SQE fall inside the machine.
Reach inside the rear of the machine with one hand (or get assistance)
and turn the air bladder with the other until the SQE is fully unscrewed
from the air intake for the bladder.
Disconnect the large air hose from the push-in fitting attached to the SQE
and remove the SQE from the rear of the machine.
Index Pins are not Coming Back Up
Begin by checking the Air Pressure at the Secondary Regulator.
Refer to Machine Adjustments for the Instructions
After you have checked the regulator you will next want to check the hoses at the
secondary regulator. The hoses that supply the air to the Index Pins run from the
secondary regulator. These hoses run through the Guard Frame and are visible
when looking into the opening at the rear of the machine.
Use a bright light to trace the hoses from the secondary regulator to the
white & black barbs on the Index Pins.
21
When tracing the hoses, you should be looking for kinks or splits in the
material. These are most likely to occur in places where the hoses run out
of the machine and are susceptible to being pinched.
Once you trace the hoses all the way back to the Index Pin, then make
sure that you have a firm connection at the barb that connects into the
pins.
Check the barbs for any splits or cracks. This is especially likely to occur
where the barb nipple comes out of the fitting part of the barb.
Loud Racket When Drilling
If your machine is making a loud racket when drilling you will need to check a
few adjustments on the machine. If necessary, refer to the Machine Adjustments
section to adjust the depth of the head and adjust the tabletop. If you have
checked these and the machine still has a racket you will need to check the guard
frame.
The Guard Frame could be moving from left to right on the Drill Frame
at the rear of the machine.
The short hex bolts on the sides, and at the rear of the machine should be
checked.
22
Locate the 7/16 hex head bolts on the sides, towards the rear of the
machine. The will have a jam nut on them.
Loosen the jam nut and then tighten or loosen the bolt to the desired
tension.
Retighten the jam nut.
23
Warranty Information
Castle, Inc. uses only the highest quality materials available for the
construction of our machines. Your LB-23 System Drill is warranted
for one full year from the date of purchase against workmanship or
material defects under normal use and service. We are not responsible
for negligence, misuse or accidents. We suggest any and all machine
maintenance or repair be discussed with an authorized Castle
Representative prior to any disassembly. We will gladly answer any
questions you may have prior to any part removal.
Castle will, in its sole discretion, either repair or replace machines that
are found to be defective. This shall be the End User’s sole remedy
under this warranty. Castle will not, under any circumstances, be
liable to the End User for consequential, incidental, special or
exemplary damages, or for loss of profits, revenue or use.
Further, Castle disclaims any warranty, expressed or implied, as
to the merchantability or fitness of a Castle product for any
particular purpose.
Castle, Inc. warrants the one (1) electric motor for one (1) year from
date of purchase. We suggest you keep your receipt in a safe place
will need a copy for any repairs or replacements.
For Technical Assistance, Parts & Tooling:
Call 800-282-8338, Monday through Friday, 8:00am - 4:00pm,
Pacific Time
Fax: 707-765-0953
24
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