Carl Goldberg GPMA1968 User Manual

Ideal as a first low-wing trainer and as a terrific everyday sport plane, the Tiger 60 ARF combines docile flight
characteristics with the aptitude for super-smooth, exciting aerobatics. This ARF has been designed to keep
building time to a minimum; it's 90% pre-built, with a pre-assembled elevator and installed pushrod and wing
guide tubes, and it features top-quality American hardware and premium covering. So read through these
instructions, follow them carefully, and you'll soon be flying a tiger that "growls as you grow." The better you
get the more fun it gives you!

WARNING

A radio-controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for persons under 16 years old. Keep
this kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts that could be dangerous. A radio­controlled model is capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer's
responsibility to assemble this aircraft correctly and to properly install the motor, radio, and all other
equipment. Test and fly the finished model only in the presence and with the assistance of another
experienced R/C flyer. The model must always be operated and flown using great care and common
sense, as well as in accordance with the Safety Code of the Academy of Model Aeronautics (5151
Memorial Drive, Muncie, IN 47302, 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you join the AMA and become prop­erly insured prior to flying this model. Also, consult with the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an
experienced instructor in your area. Per the Federal Communications Commission, you are required
to use only those radio frequencies specified "for Model Aircraft."

LIMITED WARRANTY

Carl Goldberg Products has inspected and certified the components of this aircraft. The company urges the buyer to perform his
own inspection, prior to assembly, and to immediately request a replacement of any parts he believes to be defective for their
intended use. The company warrants replacement of any such components, provided the buyer requests such replacement with­in a period of one year from the date of purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.

No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowledges and under­stands that it is his responsibility to carefully assemble the finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The buyer hereby
assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyer's use of the
components of this kit.

INSTRUCTIONS

Tiger 60 ARF

© Copyright 2002 Carl Goldberg Products LTD.

2

ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS AIRCRAFT

 1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (4 CHANNEL

MINIMUM REQUIRED) 5 SERVOS

 2 6” AILERON SERVO EXTENSION WIRES
 1 Y-HARNESS
 1 ENGINE .60-.65 2-CYCLE OR .70-.80 4-

CYCLE, AND MUFFLER

 1 ZAP ACCELERATOR
 1 2 OZ. BOTTLE ZAP-A-GAP medium CA
 1 1/2 OZ. BOTTLE ZAP Super Thin CA
 1 BOTTLE ZAP 30 minute and/or 5 minute

epoxy.

 1 DuBro Switch mount Part # 203

 1 Foam rubber 1/2”x8”x12”

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES FOR ASSEMBLY.

 MODELING OR UTILITY KNIFE
 WORK SURFACE (24" X70")
 ELECTRIC DRILL
 1/16”,5/64” 3/32”,1/8", 5/32”, 1/4” DRILL

BITS

 SMALL STANDARD & PHILLIPS SCREW-

DRIVERS

 MASKING TAPE
 NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
 36” RULER OR TAPE MEASURE
 FLEXIBLE STRAIGHT-EDGE
 T-SQUARE
 30-60-90° x 6" TRIANGLE
 SOFT PENCIL
 A FEW STRAIGHT OR "T" PINS
 ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
 WIRE CUTTER
 OPTIONAL HEAT GUN/COVERING IRON
 ACID BRUSH

You can trust ZAP™ CA (cyanoacrylate) and ZAP™ Epoxy to handle all your important
modeling needs. They're designed to withstand the high vibration levels of model air­craft, but they'll handle just about everything-dollhouse miniatures, model railroads,
arts and crafts, household repairs, building projects, and a variety of industrial applica­tions.

PROFESSIONAL-GRADE ADHESIVES

NOTE: The TIGER 60 ARF is covered in Flame Red

(#883) and White (#870) UltraCote®.

3

USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Before you begin assembling your TIGER 60 ARF, take
some time to read through this entire instruction book. It
is designed to take you step-by-step through the process
and to give you added information on engine and radio
selection and set-up, balancing your aircraft, and flying
your model. The time you spend will speed the assembly
process and help you avoid problems.

PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY

You will need a work area of approximately 24 x 70" which has
been covered to protect it from adhesive, as well as cuts and
other damage. Many people cover their work area with a
sheet of dry wall (sheet rock) and/or waxed paper t o pre­vent Zap CA and Epoxy from ruining the work surface.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS

IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD.
This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you
plan accordingly.

Using the Parts Identification section, familiarize yourself
with the various items included in your kit box.

As you work, CHECK OFF EACH STEP in the box pro­vided, so that you are sure you do not forget anything.

Do not hesitate to ask questions. Your local hobby deal­er and area flyers will most likely be happy to help, as they
want you to have a successful flying experience. You may
also receive technical assistance from Carl Goldberg
Products via e-mail (carlgoldbergproducts.com) or by tele­phone [phone].

INTRODUCTION

ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES

The ZAP family of adhesives are specially formulated to
firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your
model and to withstand the vibration and stresses of high
performance flight. ZAP A GAP CA is perfect for most
jobs. However, there are times, such as when you are
installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuselage and want
more set-up time for careful alignment and positioning,
then you should use ZAP ZPOXY™.. Occasionally, you
also will want to use ZAP Super Thin™, which "wicks" into
the surrounding areas. Aliphatic resin glue or similar
water-based glues can also be used, but they will add to
the assembly time because they dry so much more slow­ly than ZAP A GAP. Remember, whenever using any CA,

you must be careful to read instructions thoroughly, as
you will have only seconds for positioning of parts. Be
sure to trial fit parts together before gluing. Also, never
use watery THIN type CA glue for gluing plywood and
hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond these
areas.

CAUTION

Some people may experience an allergic reaction when
exposed to fumes from CA glue or epoxy. As with paints,
thinners, and solvents, it is always important to use glues
only where there is adequate ventilation to carry fumes
away. A fan is recommended. Also, special care must be
taken when using CA, as it will bond skin as well as other
surfaces. ZAP CA remover is a CA solvent which
removes hardened glue from fingers and softens glued
joints for repositioning. Before using any CA, carefully
read all label precautions. When using CA, protective
eye-wear and care in keeping the glue away from the face
is highly recommended. If CA does happen to get into the
eye, hold lid open and flush with water only. Seek imme­diate medical attention.

COVERING

The TIGER 60 ARF is covered in premium iron on film.
It is not uncommon for ARF's to develop a few wrinkles in
transit. If this is true of your model, the situation is easily
corrected. Before you begin putting the pieces together,
run over the surface of each section with an iron (either
specially designed for airplane use or the more cumber­some household iron) or use a modeling heat gun. Apply
the heat (set at about 350° F), following along with a soft
cloth and pressing down on the covering as you go
around. This will more firmly set the covering adhesive
into the wood and keep your aircraft covering tight and
smooth in the future.

One of the great advantages of film is that it can be
applied over itself without causing gas bubbles. This
allows you to repair your aircraft, as well as to customize
it in a number of ways. If, due to a flight mishap, you get
a hole or similar covering damage, simply trim away the
ragged edges and then apply a patch, following the direc­tions that come with replacement film , which is available
at your hobby dealer. In case of a major crash, where
large amounts of the film must be replaced, heat the
damaged covering and then slowly peel up. If you are
applying sufficient heat, the film will come up easily and
leave no color on the wood.

4

RADIO EQUIPMENT & CARE

There are many fine radio systems on the market. Your
local hobby dealer and club members are good sources
of information on equipment and its suitability for various
projects. It is recommended that you speak to them
before making a final choice.

Today's RC systems are very well engineered and con­structed.
However, they
will remain only
as good as the
way in which
they are
USED. Always
follow the rules
of proper
usage and all
manufacturer's
instructions for
your particular
piece of equip­ment.

TRANSMITTERS: Keep your transmitter clean and free
from fuel residue and dirt. Battery condition and RF out­put should be monitored, and the system should be
aligned and tuned annually. Do not transport under vibra­tion (such as on the floor of a car) without cushioning.

RECEIVERS: Receivers must be vibration free. When
installing in the aircraft, wrap them in a minimum of ¼"
soft foam rubber (not plastic foam). Keep well clear of all
cables and batteries. Tune annually (or as recommended
by the manufacturer), as indicated below under "Check­Ups."

SERVOS: Servos are vibration prone. Be sure to mount
them with grommet shock mounts in servo trays which are
also shock mounted. Also be sure to keep them clean. If
the neutral position "drifts," this is a sign of change which
should not be ignored; find out WHY before flying again.

BATTERIES: Nicads also can suffer from vibration, so
they too should be wrapped in soft foam rubber before
installing. Check their condition periodically by measuring
the voltage with a volt meter or battery tester. Charge the
batteries before EVERY flying session. When not used
for a period of time (such as during the winter months) the
batteries should be charged every 30 days. Never store
batteries in a discharged condition.

PUSHRODS: Obviously, pushrods should be installed to
operate freely, so that they place no load on the servo.
Using a servo's power to move a tight rod or heavy sur­face by force increases the battery drain, shortens the
electronic life, and can cause neutralizing problems. In
addition, it is important the pushrods do not flex or vibrate.
Any vibration is transferred directly to the servo, and its
gear, motor, and pot. To avoid flexing and vibration, use
guides and fairleads on the rods.

CONNECTORS: In using connectors, never pull on the
wires to disconnect; grasp the plugs instead. Clean them
by dunking in a solvent, such as dope thinner. Tape the
connectors together when installing and make sure there
is no strain on the cables.

CHECK-UPS: A full check-up by the factory or an author­ized service center should be done AT LEAST ONCE A
YEAR, as well as any time something unusual occurs dur­ing usage. A malfunction or "glitch" is the first sign of an
impending failure; it should not be ignored. The checkup
should include tuning and alignment of the system, as
well as battery testing.

ENGINE & PROPELLER SELECTION

When selecting an engine, it is important to stay within
the manufacturer’s recommended range, as failure to
do so is likely to lead to less than satisfactory per­formance and may well lead to failure of the aircraft.

Remember, that manufacturers design and test their mod­els for specific engine sizes. Therefore, the aircraft is
unlikely to withstand the stresses created above this
range. Many a modeler has watched all his hours of work
and many dollars worth of hardware head earthward
because he did not heed this warning: DO NOT OVER-
POWER YOUR MODEL! Doing so will automatically void
the manufacturer’s warranty.

Typically, size recommendations are for both a 2­cycle or a 4-cycle engine. A 2-cycle engine has more raw
power because it has faster RPMs on the propeller. A 4­cycle engine swings a bigger prop and therefore creates
more pull. It is also quieter. 4-cycle engines are general­ly preferred for high performance, more aerobatic planes.
However, if flying a tri-gear plane, a 2-cycle should be
used. The expense of an engine is usually related to
its efficiency. Some engines of similar cubic inch
displacements are more powerful than others. Check
with a dealer or an experienced flyer to learn about the
specific attributes of the engine you are considering.

If selecting a more sophisticated engine, you may go with
the lower recommended range However, if purchasing a
more basic engine, it is probably best to select something
in the higher recommended range. If you are a relatively
new RC pilot, it's probably a good idea to select an engine
that is popular at the flying field, so that if you have any
engine problems, other modelers will be familiar with the
engine and be able to help. REMEMBER: DON'T OVER-

POWER THE AIRCRAFT!

The propeller size must be matched to the engine. For
example, a .60 may use a 11" diameter prop while a .80
can use a 13" prop. Refer to the information that is sup-

plied with your engine for recommended propeller sizes.
It's wise to buy a few spare props, as everyone breaks
them occasionally, and particularly often when learning to
fly.
Balancing your propeller helps to protect your radio from
the damaging effects of vibration. There are good, easy
to use prop balancers on the market. Follow the instruc­tions that are supplied with the prop balancer. Never

5

carve or cut a prop near the hub for any reason (such as
to fit a spinner).

A 2-3/4" CGP 4-Pin Snap-On Spinner is included in the
TIGER 60 ARF. It is a rugged precision molded spinner
that does not require any special mounting nuts or
screws. Carefully read the spinner instructions and warn­ings included in this book. Although a spinner helps
reduce the chance of injury from a rotating prop, extreme
caution always must be used when the engine is running.

As with other precision equipment, a new engine should
be "broken-in" to enhance performance and extend its
life. Breaking-in usually consists of running the engine
with a "rich" fuel mixture and at lower RPMs until all the
moving parts get to "know each other better." This can be
done with the engine mounted in the model or securely
clamped into a CGP Engine Test Stand or similar device.
Refer to your engine's operating manual for the recom­mended break-in procedure and follow it carefully.

STARTING BATTERY AND GLO-PLUG CLIP: A 1-1/2
volt battery is required to heat your engine's glo-plug for
starting. Wires connect the glo-plug clip to the battery.
Because engine starting draws a lot of electric power
from the battery, rechargeable ni-cad batteries are rec­ommended. Although they cost more initially, they are
more economical in the long run than frequently replac­ing dry-cell batteries.

FUEL: For best engine performance, use the fuel rec­ommended by your engine's manufacturer. 2 and 4­cycle engines require different fuel blends. Ask your
dealer to recommend a good quality fuel.

FUEL PUMP: Needed to transfer fuel from the fuel can
to the model's fuel tank. A simple squeeze-type bulb will
do for small tanks, whereas manual crank or electric
pumps fill larger tanks more quickly.

FUEL LINE: Have about 3 feet of silicone fuel line to
make connections between the fuel pump, the fuel can,
and the model's fuel tank.

EXTRA PROPS: Experts always have a few spares on
hand, so flying doesn't have to stop due to a broken pro­peller.

CGP ENGINE TEST STAND

FIELD EQUIPMENT

The following equipment will be needed at the flying field
to start your engine, make adjustments, and clean your
model after flying.

FLIGHT BOX: Something sturdy in which to carry your
equipment. CGP's quick-building MiniTote carries the
basics: fuel, starter and battery, and a few essential tools.
The larger CGP SuperTote is economical, easy to build,
and pack lots of utility into little space. They hold fuel,
transmitter, starter & battery, as well as many tools, in a
balanced load that is easy to carry. The fuel tote is
designed to carry your fuel in a handy box that keeps the
jugs from rolling around in your car.

6

HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION

GLOSSARY OF MODELING TERMS

ARF: Almost Ready to Fly
AILERON: the control surface on the wing that rolls the

plane

AIRFOIL: the shape of the wing as seen from the end
ANGLE OF ATTACK: the angle at which the wing meets

the air flow

BEVEL: to sand to an angle shape
BURR: the rough edges on a piece of wood or metal after

it is cut

CAP STRIP: a thin strip glued to the edges of the ribs to

shape the wing

CONTROL HORN: a device attached to each control sur-

face to provide an attachment point for the pushrod

COWL (COWLING): the nose section of the fuselage that

encloses the engine

DECALAGE: the difference between the incidence of the

wing and stabilizer

DIHEDRAL: the upward angle of the wings, as seen from

the front

ELEVATOR: the moveable part of the horizontal tail,

which controls pitch

EMPENNAGE: the tail of the plan
FIN: the fixed vertical part of the tail
FIREWALL: the hard wooden former at the front of the

fuselage, to which the engine is mounted

FORMER: a piece which shapes the fuselage; and to

which the sides of the fuselage are attached.

GUSSET: a small triangular piece glued into a corner to

strengthen it

INCIDENCE: the angle of the wing or the tail in relation

to the thrustline

LAMINATE: to glue two thin sheets of material together

to form a thick sheet

LEADING EDGE (L.E.): the edge of the wing that first

meets the airflow

LONGERON: a stringer that runs the length of the fuse-

lage

OUTPUT ARM: the piece that attaches to the servo and

connects it to the pushrod

PITCH: an up and down movement of the nose of the

plane, which is controlled by the elevator

PROTOTYPE: the full scale airplane from which the

model design was taken

PUSHROD: the long, stiff dowel, plastic or wire piece that

connects the servo with the control horn

RTF: Ready to Fly
RIB: the airfoil-shaped piece that connects the leading

edge, spars and trailing edge of the wing together
and holds them in shape

RETRACTS: devices for extending and retracting the

wheels on command

ROLL: tilting of the plane as viewed from the front, con-

trolled by the ailerons

RUDDER: the moveable vertical tail of the plane, which

controls yaw

SERVO: the part of the airborne radio system that

moves the control surfaces

SHEAR WEB: wood sheeting that connects the top and

bottom spars to stiffen the wing

SHIM: a thin piece of wood inserted between two other

pieces to improve their fit

SPAR: a wooden stick running lengthwise through the

wing that serves as its backbone

SPINNER: the rounded cone that fits over the propeller

hub

STABILIZER (STAB): the fixed horizontal part of the tail
STALL: a situation in which the plane is flying too slow-

ly to move sufficient air across the wing to produce
lift

STRINGER: a long piece of wood attached to the form-

ers to shape the fuselage

THRUSTLINE: a line drawn from the center of the pro-

peller hub straight through the airplane

TORQUE: a rolling tendency caused by the spinning

propeller

TRAILING EDGE (T.E.): the edge of the wing that faces

the rear of the plane

TRIM: small adjustments made to the control surfaces

to cause the plane to fly straight and level by itself

WASHIN: a twist in the wing that makes the trailing

edge lower than normal

WASHOUT: a twist in the wing that makes the trailing

edge higher than normal

WING SADDLE: the shaped part of the fuselage in

which the wing rests

WHEEL COLLAR: a metal ring that holds the wheel on

the axle

YAW: a right-to-left movement of the nose, controlled by

the rudder

BLIND NUT

EYELET

PUSHROD CONNEC­TOR WITH SNAP NUT.

NOSE GEAR BLOCK

SNAP LINK

LANDING GEAR
STRAP

STEERING ARM

CONTROL HORN

ON/OFF SWITCH

SOCKET HEAD
SCREW

WHEEL COLLAR

PAN HEAD
SCREW

SHEET METAL
SCREW

SET SCREW

WASHER

7

WING ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

AILERON INSTALLATION

1.  Collect the following parts:

(1) Left wing
(1) Right wing
(1) Left aileron
(1) Right aileron
(10) Jet hinge

2.  Locate the pre-cut aileron hinge slots in both

wing halves. Using a hobby knife (#11 blade),
slide the blade into each slot to make sure it
is cleanly cut.

 Repeat this process with the ailerons, mak-

ing sure all hinge slots are clean.

3.  Place a straight pin into the center of each of

the four JET™ hinges.

 Slide each hinge into the hinge slots on one

of the wing halves. The pin will prevent the
hinges from going in further than halfway into
the wing.

4.  Select the aileron for the wing on which you

are working and insert the exposed half of
each hinge into the aileron slots.

 Slide the aileron toward the wing until no gap

remains between the aileron and the wing.

5.

 Carefully check the alignment of the aileron.

There should be about 1/32" on both ends.

 When satisfied with the alignment, remove

the straight pins, being sure to keep the
aileron tight to the wing. You may wish to
apply a few pieces of masking tape to keep
the pieces in place.

6.  Keeping the aileron and wing in position,

apply 3 or 4 drops of thin CA to the small
exposed area of each hinge.

 Turn the assembly over and again apply 3 or

4 drops of CA to the exposed hinge surfaces.

 Allow to dry for 10 minutes before flexing the

aileron.

7.  Repeat the above steps for the other half of

the wing.

AILERON SERVO INSTALLATION

The following pictures may not exactly match the hard­ware you are using. Always check the radio manufac­turer's instructions when installing radio equipment.

1.  Collect the following items:

(1) Aileron servo door
(2) 3/8 x 3/4" square Servo Mounting Block
(4) Servo Mounting Screw (supplied with radio)
(4) #2 Washer
(4) #2 x 3/8" Screw
(1) Servo with rubber grommet

8

2.  With the servo door upside down on the work

surface, place the servo on top of the door
with the servo arm post centered vertically
and horizontally with the servo door notch.

 Mark the location of the servo, as shown.

3.  Remove the servo from the door.

 Spread epoxy on the servo mounting blocks

and, making sure the wood grain on both
mounting blocks runs vertically, glue the
blocks in place along the marks just made.

4.  Place the servo door on the wing and drill a

1/16" hole on each corner.

 Using the #2 x 3/8" screw and #2 washer

supplied with this kit, screw the door to the
mounting plate.

5.  Repeat the above steps for the second

aileron servo.

AILERON CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION

1.  Collect the following items

(2) Silicone snap link keepers

(2) Large control horn with back plate
(4) 2-56 x 3/4" screw
(2) 2mm x155mm threaded wire
(2) Snap link

2.  With the aileron servo door in place, make a

mark at a 90º degree angle to the trailing
edge and in line with the servo arm.

 When the epoxy is dry, drill 1/16" holes into

the servo blocks and, using the screws sup­plied with the radio, mount the servo onto the
blocks.

SERVO MOUNTING
BLOCKS WILL GO
HERE

9

3.  Position the control horn so that the snap link

holes are right next to the hinge line, as
shown.

4.

 Using a 5/64" drill bit, make a pilot hole in

each screw location.

 Mount the control horn with the 2-56 x 3/4"

screws.

5.  Thread the 2mm x 155mm rod onto the snap

link. Make sure the rod shows in the center of
the snap link.

 Place the snap link in the second hole from

the top on the control horn. Slide the silicone
keeper in place

6.  Make sure the aileron is in neutral (level)

position, mark where the wire meets the hole
on the servo arm.

 Remove the wire and cut it about 1/2"

beyond the mark.

 Make a 90º bend (or a "z" bend, if preferred)

in the wire and insert the wire in the servo
arm.

 Secure the wire with a snap nut and then put

a drop of ZAP CAt™ on the snap nut to
make sure it stays in place.

PLACE CONTROL HORN AT HINGE LINE

2-56 X 3/4" SCREWS

SNAP LINK

CONTROL
HORN

SERVO EXTENSION INSTALLATION

1.  Gather the following items:

(2) 6" Extension wires
(1) Wing

2.  Remove the servo door and plug one 6"

extension wire into the servo.

 If the extension is not long enough to reach

to the center of the wing, add an additional
extension to each extension wire for correct
length.

IMPORTANT! To ensure that any connections located
inside the wing will not come loose, either when the
wires are pulled, or during flying, always tape them
securely together with electrical tape.

3.  Making sure to use the correct servo for the

opening, attach the servo wire to the 6"
extension and securely tape the connection.

 Push the extension wire into the tube in the

wing until it comes out hole near the center
of the wing.