Carl Goldberg GPMA0960 User Manual

1

Instructions

Introduction. The Gentle Lady sailplane was designed to be a gentle trainer for the beginning R/C modeler, yet to possess

competition capability in the hands of the experienced glider pilot. As a very efficient machine, she reacts quickly to rising air
( called lift, or thermals). To stay in the thermal, she can circle very tightly without falling off. The model has good penetration into
the wind and can really “cruise” when desired. Before starting to build, read through these instructions and familiarize yourself with
the plans. If a 6-1/2 ft. wing will not fit into your car, you will want to build the wing version with removable tips.

The

Gentle Lady can be flown a number of ways: hand tow, high-start, slope soar, or power. The simplest method is hand tow,

which resembles towing a kite into the air. High-start is a combination of elastic cord and tow line. When stretched, the high-start
will gently tow the model up to an altitude of several hundred feet from which a flight of three minutes or more in dead air ( no
Thermals) can be obtained. A variation of the high-start is the more expensive powered winch, popular with glider clubs. If you live
near unobstructed hills or ridges, slope soaring is easily possible, so long as you have a suitable landing area. Hand launching the
model off the upwind side of the slope, directly into the wind, will enable you, with practice, to soar back and forth along the slope
in the rising air for as long as the wind remains. Finally, the use of power is an excellent option, and this book and the plan show

typical installations. For the modeler who wishes to power fly the

Gentle Lady at all times, nose mounting of engine is recom-

mended. Pod mounting has two advantages: the power pod assembly can be easily removed for flying the model as a pure glider,
and engine oils are less likely to dirty the fuselage.

Warning

A radio-controlled model is not a toy. It is capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer’s responsi­bility to build this kit correctly and to properly install the motor, radio, and all other equipment. The first test flights should be made
only with the assistance of an experienced R/C flyer. The model must always be operated and flown in accordance with the safety
standards of the Academy of Model Aeronautilcs.

Per the Federal Communications Commission, you are required to use only those radio frequencies specified “for Model Aircraft.”

Pt. #2044- 2/97

© Copyright 1981 Carl Goldberg Products, P.O. Box818 Oakwood, Ga. 30566 Phone [phone]

2

Items needed to complete this kit.



1 Radio Guidance system( 2 channel

minimum required)



2 Rolls covering material



1 2oz. bottle CA glue



1 CA accelerator



1 30 minute epoxy



1 Tub Balsa-tinted CGP Model Magic™.



1 Box #64 Rubber bands.



1 Servo mounting Tape



1 1/4 x 8 x 12” CGP Foam Padding



CGP Scuff Guard ( To Protect Bottom From

Scratching)

For Removable Tip Option



1 1/8” x 3” x 18” Balsa Sheet



1 Piece 3/32” Dia. x 6” Music Wire



1 3/32” x 6” GCP Nylon Reinforcing Tape

For Engine Power

Engine, Propeller, Mounting Screws, Nuts, and

Washers

For Servo Mounting

CGP #360 Pushrod Connectors

Selecting Radio Control

Equipment

Radio sets are battery powered with either dry cells or the more
reliable, rechargeable nickel-cadmium (ni-cad) batteries.
Although ni-cad powered units are more expensive, the cost of
routinely replacing worn out batteries may be much higher in the
long run. Many of the radio systems now available feature
“servo reversing” switches which allow you to reverse the
response of the servo. This simplifies radio installation and is
worth considering. Exponential or dual rates are popular features
which , if used properly, can help smooth out the flight of a sen­sitive model. Your local hobby dealer should be able to help you
select the proper radio for your needs and skill level. And be
sure to get a system designed for aircraft, as only certain fre­quencies are available for model aircraft.

Necessary Tools and Supplies.



Miscellaneous Rubber Bands



Roll of waxed Paper



Modeling Knife and Single Edge Razor Blade



Sandpaper( assorted grits, including Medium(150) and

Fine(220-320)



Sanding Block



“T” Pins (at least 50)



Building Board (24”x70”)



Electric Drill



1/16” Drill Bit



1/8” Drill Bit



Allen Wrench (.050 for #4 socket set screw)



Small Screwdriver (1/8” Blade Tip)



Covering Iron and Heat Gun



Masking Tape



Pliers



Flexible Straight-Edge



30-60 Degree x 6” Triangle



Pencil

Limited Warranty

Carl Goldberg Models takes pride in the care and attention given
to the manufacture of components for its model airplane kits.
The company warrants replacement of any materials found to be
defective for their intended use, prior to their use in construc-
tion of the aircraft, provided the buyers requests such replace­ment within a one year period from the date of purchase and
provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the
company.

No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the
company with respect to this kit. The buyer hereby assumes full
responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or proper­ty damage or injury arising out of the buyer’s use of the compo­nents of this kit.

Using This Instruction Manual

Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time to look
through this entire instruction booklet. It is designed to guide you
through the construction process step by step, so build in the order
given in this book. Radio selection and installation, covering, and
balancing and flying the model are all covered. Also spend time
becoming familiar with the plans.

Like a full-size airplane, the Gentle Lady is built from basic
structures (stablizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then assembled
into the complete airplane.

Special procedures or comments will usually be explained
before a step, so you will be prepared. If a step begins with a
statement like “Note,” “Warning,” or “Important,” it is a good
idea to read through the step before doing it.

A check-off box appears at the beginning of each step. Check
these boxes as you build, so you can tell at a glance what steps
you have completed. Some steps require you to repeat them, as
in the case of the left and right wing panel.

Some of the instructions deal with general procedures. Boxes
are not needed for these sections.

How to read the plan

The plan shows the Fuselage ( Body), the Wing, and the Tail
Parts. Everything on the plan is drawn to full-size and shape
and shows how the finished parts fit together.

The plan is drawn to show the model completely assembled,
but as a result, the areas inside or underneath are covered up,
making it hard to understand how these parts fit together.
Therefore, for clarity, some parts are drawn with hidden lines ,
others with breakway views, and some are entirely removed
from the structure and shown separately.

For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the completed
model has been removed to show the details inside. Sometimes
a surface is broken away to reveal the detail behind or under­neath. Dashed lines indicate details that are hidden behind or
under another part of the surface.

The model is made from four varieties of wood: balsa, bass,
birch, and various plywoods. Each kind of wood has its own
characteristic end grain pattern (as viewed from the end) which
has been drawn on the plan.You can easily use these end grain
patterns to identify what kind of wood is shown for a part, if
you are in doubt.

How to use the plan

The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer, and fin
are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood part is
matched over its corresponding location printed on the plan
and pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan from gluing
your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are working on with
waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap.

The paper the plan is printed on can expand or contract slight­ly with changes in temperature or humidity. Because of this, a
preformed part such as the notched wing trailing edge may not
exactly match the plan. This is no problem, as slight deviations
in the outline or size will not noticeably affect flight perform­ance.

Because the fuselage plugs together and is self-aligning, it is
not built directly over the plan. However, make sure the stabi­lizer and fin are mounted square and true to the fuselage. As
you assemble the fuselage, you will find the plan helpful in
identifying parts and how things fit together.

The plan also shows the installation of a typical radio, battery and
all remaining equipment and hardware needed to complete the
model. By referring to the examples shown, you should be able to
install your own radio, etc., even if it is not the same as what is
shown on the plan.

Identifying Parts

Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise, parts for the tail
assembly are also grouped. Die-cut plywood and balsa sheets of
common sizes are bundled together, so they are less likely to be
damaged during shipping and handling.

The various screws, hinges, and fittings are packaged in plastic

bags.

Preparing For Assembly

Place a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work bench. Any

material that accepts pins, such as insulation board, soft plywood,
or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work. Important: any warps or

bends in the pinning board will result in wings or tail surfaces
that are also warped or bent, making your model more difficult
to fly. Make sure that the pinning board is flat by laying a straight

edge across it. You may be able to correct a warped board by shim­ming its low areas.

Position the area of the plan (such as the stabilizer) on which you
are going to build over the pinning board and tape it in place so the
plan lies flat and wrinkle free.

Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap over the work

area to prevent CA from sticking to your plan and ruining it.

Construction Tips

If you have never assembled a built-up model before, the follow­ing tips will prove helpful.

IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This
will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan accord­ingly.

You may find it convenient to empty all of the small parts from the
hardware bags into a common container, such as a margarine tub.
This will help you find items quickly.

When drilling any 1/16” holes in balsa, you may find it easier to
twist the drill between your thumb and index finger. This procedure
allows more control in positioning the drill on the center mark.

Punch out only the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as you proceed.
This will help you keep track of parts, especially the small ones.

After completing each section of the aircraft, you may want to go
back and reglue the joints, just in case some area has been missed.
Be careful not to use too little glue, which will leave the model
weak or too much glue, which can make the model heavy.
Properly glued joints are important to the overall strength of the
model. CA is recommended for most parts of the assembly,
although epoxy may be used when more time is needed for careful
placement.

3

Introduction

4

Wood Parts

Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) from
the die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until glued into a struc­tural unit. If necessary, use a razor knife or razor saw to assist in
the removal of parts from the sheet. Sometimes a little trimming
and sanding can improve parts, where desired. Save scrap until
the model is completed, in case a part is missing or damaged.
Also, scrap is used in some building steps. Solid lines indicate
die-cut parts; dashed lines indicate cuts to be made as described.
Some easily recognized pieces, such as nose block, are not
shown.

Parts Identification: Heavy lines indicate die-cut parts.

Dashed lines indicate cuts to be made as described in the instruc­tions.

About The Wood In The Kit

We strive to supply good quality materials in your kit. Wood
parts are inspected with regard to the function they will serve. If
an imperfection is spotted in a scrap corner of a die-cut sheet
and doesn’t affect actual parts, the sheet is considered accept­able. Also, internal stresses in wood are relieved as it is cut into
parts. These relieved stresses may cause some parts to bow.
Bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily straighten
out as they are glued into a structural unit.

1. Collect all of the items you will need to construct the HORIZONTAL STABILIZER. They include:
(1) D/C Sheet 6006 (3/16” Balsa) Pt.#3455 (5) TAIL L.E. & T.E. (3/16” X1/4” X21”) PT. #4697

Includes: (1) STAB CENTER (3) TAIL TRUSSES (5/64” X3/16” X24”) PT. #4698

(2) STAB TIPS (1) RUDDER T.E. (3/16” X9/16” X8”) PT.#4701
(1) DORSAL (1) ELEVATOR GUSSETS PT#4696

(1) FIN BOTTOM

2.



Lie the horizontal stabilizer portion of the plan over the

building board and place the waxed paper over the plan.



The main members of the tail assembly are 3/16” x 1/4”

balsa strips. Check to see which strips are the strongest,
and use these for the stabilizer. Lighter ones can be used
in the fin and rudder.



Pin in position and glue at center joint.



Using die-cut stab tips, the center platform and 3/16” x 1/4”

balsa, assemble stab outline.



In cutting the diagonal trusses for the tail, trim them to fit
well. If a bit oversize, don’t force them in place. The
pieces should fit before gluing. It’s better to have them not
meet at the points than to force them in.



Let all parts dry thoroughly.

3.



Assemble fin and rudder in same manner.

Note: Trailing edge of rudder is tapered.-use 1/16” x12” wire
for shim as shown.



Add gussets and let dry throughly.

4.



Temporarily tack-cement elevator to stab, and rudder

to fin (to be removed later). Flat sand parts for uniform
smooth surfaces. Then sand edges, rounding corners and
blending surfaces. Important: Do Not sand the lower

2” of fin L.E. at this time.



Carefully separate elevator and rudder from main units.

5.



Lie the widest side of both 3/4” x 3/4” tri-strips down. Align

strips using a straight edge and separate them by about 3”.
Pin in position.



Position elevator so that its trailing edge rests on top of

tri-strips. Pin elevator in place.



Using a square cornered block, sand front surface of

elevator to match with view on plan.

6.



Pin down 3/4” wide side of one tri-strip. Position rudder so

it rests against angled side of tri-strip. Pin in place.



Sand front surface of rudder to match with view on plan.

5

Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizer Construction (6 Steps)

Important: This booklet has recently been revised. Therefore, some of the steps in the booklet may not match what is shown
on the plan. Whenever you find such a divergence, follow the instructions in this booklet.

Beveling Rudder

Bevelling Elevator

Gussets

Select strongest pieces for stab L.E. and T.E.

Fit trusses carefully. Don’t force in place.

2.



Place the plan on a building board or other flat surface. Working
over the
RIGHT INBOARD PANEL section of plan, pin inboard leading and
trailing edges (L.E. & T.E.) in place. Align notches in T.E. with
those shown on plan. Cut two pieces of bottom sheeting from 1/16”
x 2-1/2” x24” balsa. Then fit and trim one piece from 1/16” x3”
x24” balsa.
Assemble sheeting and glue to L.E. and T.E.



Glue ribs 6 and 7 to L. E. and T. E.



Position 1/8” ply spar brace in front slots, but DO NOT GLUE AT

THIS TIME.

3



Continuing to work on a flat surface, position and glue

remaining ribs 2 through 8.



Position 1/16” die-cut balsa spacers in rib slots, and glue to

bottom sheeting per sketch.

4.



Sand dihedral angle in one end of bass wood main and rear
spars, following angle indicated on plan.



Insert spars through ribs, with dihedral angle at wing center

joint. Use a flat block to sand spar ends flush with the
L.E. and T.E. at sheeted end.



Glue spars to ribs 5,6,7 and 8 Only.

6

Wing Construction (13 steps)

Wing Terms Defined

Dihedral-

The upward bend of the wings, which usually starts at wing center.

Polyhedral- Additional dihedral at the wing tips, often used with glider wings.

1.



Collect the items needed to construct the WING. They include:

(2) D/C Sheet 6001 (5/64” x3” x24”) PT.# 3450 (2) Tri-strips (5/16” x5/16” x4”) PT# 4876

Wing Rib (2) Inboard T.E. (L) PT# 4688

(2) D/C Sheet 6002 (5/64” x3” x24”) PT# 3451 (2) Outboard T.E. (S) PT# 4689

Wing Ribs (2) Inboard L.E. (L) PT#4690

(1) D/C Sheet 6005 (1/16” x3” x24”) PT# 3454 (2) Outboard L.E. (S) PT#4691

Includes: Double Spar Spacers (2) Inboard Main Spar (1/4” x7/16” x20-3/4”)

(1) D/C Sheet 6008 (1/16”Ply x 2-7/16” x 15-3/16”) PT# 3457 (Bass wood) PT#4692

Includes:Wing Joiners (2) Inboard Rear Spar (1/8” x1/4” x20-3/4”

(1) D/C Sheet 6009 (1/8” Ply x2” x17”) PT# 3458 (Bass wood) PT# 4693

Includes: Wing Joiners and Braces (2) Outboard Main Spar

(1) Wing, Fuse Top & Bottom Sheeting PT# 4686 (1/4” x7/16” x17-5/8”) PT# 4694

(1/16” x3” x24”) (2) Outboard Rear Spar

(2) Wing Sheeting (1/16” x 2-1/2” x24”) PT#4687 1/8” x1/4” x 17-5/8”) PT# 4695

1/16” spacers

7



Stuff double thickness of wing rib scrap into rib slots as

shown in sketch to center spars in their respective slots.
Glue spar bottoms to spacers.



Glue spar brace firmly to spar. Let dry thoroughly.

5.



Using a square-cornered sanding block, lightly sand L.E.

and T.E. to match with spar angles.

6.



Pin RIGHT OUTBOARD L.E. and T.E. in place over

plan.



Position and glue ribs 10 through 18. Add gusset at corner

of rib 18 and T.E.



Sand one end of spars for proper polyhedral angle shown

on plan.



Slide spars in place (angled ends at rib 9 position), but

do not yet glue.



Lightly sand L.E. and T.E. to conform to spar polyhedral

angles. Proceed directly to Step 8.
NOTE: Some people have wondered why we show an optional 3-piece
wing. The reason is that, in a 2-piece wing, the structural requirements
at the center are very high. This leads to a more difficult structure, and
a heavier one. Having removable outboard panels is much simpler and
lighter.

NOTE:IF YOU ARE MAKING THE WING WITH THE
REMOVABLE TIP OPTION, OMIT THE NEXT 3 BOXES AND
PROCEED DIRECTLY TO STEP 7.

IMPORTANT

THIS STEP IS FOR THE REMOVABLE TIP OPTION ONLY!

7.



Cut four new #9 ribs from 1/8” hard balsa, using rib

pattern at upper right corner of plan labeled
“REMOVABLE TIP

OPTION.” Do not use die-cut

rib #9.



Use SANDING ANGLE TEMPLATE (cut or copy

from
right corner of plan) and 1/8” ply scrap to establish
proper sanding block angle, as shown in sketch.



Slide outboard spars in place, but do not glue yet.



Gently sand polyhedral ends of spars, L.E.’s and T.E.’s

for uniform vertical surfaces.

Scrap material for spacing-Do not glue